Seat vaz 2109 DIY repair

In detail: seat vaz 2109 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

1. Move the seat of the fret satellite all the way forward, use a screwdriver to remove the lower ends of the torsion bars from the holes and remove the torsion bars.

2. Slide the seat back until it stops, unscrew the four mounting nuts and remove the two brackets.

3. Lift the front part of the Lada Samara seat and unscrew the two nuts of the front mounting of the sled.

4. Slide the seat forward as far as it will go and remove the two rear sled mounting nuts.

5. Remove the seat from the passenger compartment.

6. Unscrew the mounting bolt and remove the seat belt buckle from the slide.

7. Remove the retaining ring.

8. Remove the threaded bushing.

9. Remove the retaining ring and take out the sleeve for securing the second slide.

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The reason for the repair is chattering. We disassemble the headrest, and found that steel slides heavily on steel, and there are no more gaps to tighten the clamps harder. We insert I into the clamps of the copper strip.

The head restraints were rusted, making them so difficult to pull out. We clean and lubricate.
The lower fixing slots on the headrest struts are straight. Rounding off the bottom grooves will make the head restraints easier to remove.

Assembling the back and head restraint in the reverse order. This completes the repair of the VAZ seats, it remains only to install it back into the car.

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Video (click to play).

Task: replace the front seats of the VAZ 2109
The front seats with nine are famous for their uncomfortable seating position, their backs numb from fatigue, and the stubborn knees of passengers in the back.

We remove the seats, take them out of the car and begin to disassemble. The disassembly report is made using the example of the driver's seat:

The back is disassembled. Now let's get down to the seat:

Disassembling the front seat is done. As you can see, nothing complicated. Then the fun begins!
We present to your attention a set of CBC "Omega" for the restoration of the front seats:

I'll start by assembling the seat seat. In fact, nothing complicated either. The most ordinary constructor.

For work you will need:
1.flat screwdriver;
2. hammer;
3.knife;
4. wire;
5.glue (like moment 88, ur-600, etc.);
6. glue brush;
6.foam rubber 10mm, 0.5x0.5m (if not included);
7.awl (drive away advisers);
8.insulating tape (well, this is sacred).

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Important! During the assembly process, I added something from myself. Moments like this are marked "not necessary"... That is, if at the beginning of a comment under some picture you see this prefix, it means that the manufacturer did not perform this operation - this is a pure gag. Feel free to throw tomatoes!

Next, we collect the seat until the end:

The seat was assembled.
Upon the arrival of the crown frame, it and the factory backrest frame were combined into a single structure with the help of a semiautomatic device and some kind of mother.

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Result: restoration of the front seats of the VAZ 2109 completed.

Welcome!
On every car, from time to time, the seats become unusable. For someone they are torn, for someone they are deformed, etc. After reading this article, you will be familiar with the correct instructions for replacing the front and rear seats. And also from this article you will learn for yourself, the process of replacing the front seat sled.

Note!
From beginning to end, the work will be carried out exclusively on the cars of the "Samara" family!

Summary:

Withdrawal:
1) First, move the front seat back until it stops.

2) Then using a screwdriver, use it to disconnect the torsion bars from the base of the pillow.

3) After disconnecting, remove the torsion bars from all brackets and, as a result, remove them.

4) Next, using the head, unscrew two nuts on both sides that secure the holding brackets.

5) When the nuts have been removed, remove the retaining brackets from the studs.

6) Now fold the front seat back a little in order to get to the sled.

7) When the seat is folded down, unscrew one bolt on each side that secures the front mounts' slide.

8) Then slide the seat forward a little, climb up to the rear of it and then unscrew one bolt attaching the rear slide from both sides.

9) Next, remove the seat from the front door opening. After removing, unscrew the bolt that secures the seat belt buckle, and then remove the buckle.

Installation:
The entire installation takes place in reverse order, that is:

1) First, install the new front seat in its place.

2) After installation, the seat is pushed all the way forward and then two bolts are screwed in to secure the rear slide.

3) Next, the seat is pushed back to the stop, and after that it leans back and as a result of which the two bolts of the front slide are screwed in.

4) Then, while the seat is pushed back all the way, put both brackets on the studs and tighten their fastening nuts.

5) And finally, install the torsion bars in their place.

Note!
When the installation of the new front seat is complete, bolt the seat belt buckle back in place. And also, if you purchased seats without a sled, then install the sled on it, removing them from the old seat for this! (How to remove the slide, see in the same article under the heading: "Replacing the front seat slide")

Withdrawal:
1) First remove the lock washer that secures the bushing of the first slide to the seat.

2) When the washer is removed, remove the bushings from the hole in the slide.

3) Now do the same operation but only with the second slide, that is, first remove the lock washer, and then remove the bushing from the second slide.

4) When the bushing is removed, remove both sliders.

Note!
Installation of the first and second skids is carried out in the reverse order of removal, replace all damaged and deformed bushings with new ones!

Withdrawal:
1) At the beginning of the operation, use a screwdriver to pry off the right and left decorative strip that covers the seat mountings. After prying off, remove them.

2) When the pads are removed, unscrew one bolt on both sides using a cap-head extension that secures the rear seat cushion.

3) After unscrewing the bolts, slightly raise the pillow and, as a result, remove it.

4) Then move to the extreme left position by hand, the central lever for securing the back of the rear seat.

5) Now take the cap-head extension again in your hands, and then remove one bolt on each side of the seat back mount.

6) After loosening the bolts, remove the rear seat backrest together with the luggage compartment floor carpet.

Note!
In order to install the new rear seat in its place, perform the entire operation in the reverse order of removal!

The front seats in the VAZ 2109 are not the most comfortable fit, the back and knees of the rear passengers, numb from fatigue, in the form of a massage. An alternative to this torture can be seats from a foreign car or restoration of relatives. The second option will be discussed today.

1. Torment of choice.
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The decision to replace the front seats is likely to lead you to a fork in the decision. What to do next? Put the same ones (the easiest way, but the torment will remain), buy from a foreign car (you can choose in our store) or restore relatives beyond recognition. How to proceed is up to you. And today we will share with you the secrets of restoring stock seats. We are talking about a kit for self-assembly of an anatomical salon for a VAZ. You can find such a set using any search engine. Here is one of the sites that sells showrooms and kits for self-assembly. They also have an assembly guide on their website. We will share with you photos with a detailed description of the actual assembly and installation of such a kit.

2. Disassembly
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In principle, there should not be any special problems with disassembling the seats, but for many it will be useful to find out the details.
So, let's begin. We remove the seat, take it out of the car and begin to disassemble it. The disassembly report is made using the example of the driver's seat:

The back is disassembled. Now let's get down to the seat:

Disassembling the front seat is done. As you can see, nothing complicated. Even a schoolboy can handle it. Then the fun begins!

3. Assembly
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We present to your attention a set of CBC "Omega" for the restoration of the front seats:

Along with the kit came a little "Fun".
Firstly, there was a jamb with delivery times. The boys who are sitting at the phone did not quite understand the order. Well, nothing happens. We confirm the order one and a half weeks after the last call. We are waiting another 3-4 days for delivery.
Secondly, when the order came, there was no crown frame in it! Well, yes, it also happens. All the same people. We pay for the next shipment. Everyone is happy, everyone is laughing. When assembling the seats, it turns out that the foam insert was not included in the parcel either. Well, there is already a jamb, again they did not call and swear - they found foam rubber in stocks.
Thirdly, when welding the factory frame and the crown frame, the latter lacked its own length in two places. Jamb of a manufacturer's assembly? Well, yes, it also happens. We get out on our own ...
In general, see the assembly report, everything is clearly shown there 🙂 Considering the above, check the completeness.

3.1 Seat
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I'll start by assembling the seat seat. In fact, nothing complicated either. The most ordinary constructor.

For work you will need:
1.flat screwdriver;
2. hammer;
3.knife (or scissors);
4. wire;
5.glue (like moment 88, ur-600, etc.);
6. glue brush;
6.foam rubber 10mm, 0.5x0.5m (if not included);
7.awl (not necessary);
8.insulating tape (not necessary);

The manufacturer's instructions can be found here. We are posting detailed instructions for assembling the "Omega" seat of one of the buyers. Augmented and with comments 🙂

Important! At the end, an operation was performed that was not described in the assembly instructions for the seat. It is not necessary to do it, but in order to achieve a higher strength against abrasion and wear of the seat it is recommended.

In general, some points during the assembly, added by myself, are marked "not necessary"... That is, if at the beginning of the comment under some picture you see this prefix, then this means that the manufacturer did not carry out this operation - this is a pure gag 🙂

Next, we collect the seat until the end:

The seat is assembled. As you can see, several items have been added regarding the standard assembly instructions. We think they will not be superfluous. We continue to work in the sweat of our brow!

3.2 Backrest
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Well, this is where the second half of our movie begins. Hope there's still some popcorn left? Not?! Run to the kitchen urgently and look for a replacement! ... but, though ... wait! Don't care! We look further!

Jokes aside, let's continue.Upon arrival of the crown frame, it and the factory backrest frame were taken to the welder. With them he did his dirty work. Everything worked out great. Unless, the design of the crown frame itself let us down. In the central part, it lacked the length to the back frame. Added stud bolts and voila! The new backrest frame is ready for assembly.
And now the pictures! Happy viewing!

The standard seats on the VAZ 2109 are very simple. Manual adjustments, weak lateral support, unattractive appearance. Many owners of the VAZ 2109 are thinking about improving the seats.

There are four known ways to improve the seats of the VAZ 2109:

banal upholstery cleaning;
purchase of seat covers;
modernization of seats with a change in the frame;
installation of professional sports chairs.

Upholstery cleaning is a routine procedure. The standard seat upholstery of the VAZ 2109 is quite easily soiled. There are some good aerosol cleaners on the market. Such a product should be sprayed from a distance of 15–20 cm from the surface, allowed to dry and vacuum cleaned. The upholstery looks like new after cleaning. This is the cheapest way to take care of your seats.

At the other end of the price scale are options to upgrade existing seats or buy new sports seats for the VAZ 2109. These trips require serious investments, complex technologies, including welding. Do-it-yourself implementation is difficult.

The use of covers seems to be a reasonable price compromise.

The choice of cover material is quite rich. Eco-leather is gaining more and more popularity. The prefix "eco" in its name is not justified by anything other than marketing. This is a synthetics in which a layer of polyurethane, not polyvinyl chloride, is applied to the fabric base. Therefore, the "aroma" of leatherette is absent. In addition, polyurethane is a porous material, it “breathes”, and even better than dyed genuine leather. The disadvantages of eco-leather include low resistance to thermal effects - the coal from a cigarette burns through the eco-leather.

One of the most popular car seat materials is velor. It is a pile material that does not slip on clothing or skin. Does not burn in summer, does not cool in winter. Very practical, does not require complex maintenance. At the same time, it attracts dust.

Another increasingly popular upholstery material for car seats is Alcantara. It is a faux suede that is hard to tell from real. It has a rough surface that is pleasant to the touch. The color scheme of the material is very diverse. The thermal resistance of Alcantara is unique: in winter and summer, the temperature sensations when touching it are equally neutral. If it were not for the relatively high cost of Alcantara, it could claim to be the ideal material for car covers.

Often, covers are made combined, using two materials: the front side is made of Alcantara, and the back is made of plain textiles. A foam pad is often used.

Whatever material the cover is made of, it must be pulled over the rear and front passenger and driver's seats on the VAZ 2109. The fabric is easily pulled over a convex surface, but you cannot pull it over a concave one. Which seats are suitable for stretching depends on their design.

The seats of the "nine" are rather considerably concave in the transverse direction, but, fortunately, they are slightly convex in the longitudinal direction. This allows the cover to be attached to the back and seat cushion of the Nine, although not very securely. The problem of fixing the cover on the back is solved by two additional attachment points in the middle of its field.

When repairing the front seats of the VAZ 2109, you can perform such a fastening according to the original technology using the classic tool of shoemakers and furriers. This tool is called a stitching awl, chain stitch hook, Luvenville hook, or boot hook.The sewn awl differs from the usual one by the presence of a special hook immediately behind its edge, similar to a fishing harpoon and designed to push the thread back through the just made puncture.

Fastening is carried out with two pairs of large buttons, fastened with a thin steel wire. The wire runs through the backrest upholstery and cover. Buttons with an eyelet in the stem are used, rather than with through holes in the body of the button.This principle of updating the seats will allow you to lay an additional layer of foam rubber under the side parts of the cover to create the effect of enhanced lateral support. The work is carried out in the following order.DIY VAZ 2109 seat repairI wish you to tell and show how I disassembled, repaired and assembled the seat on the VAZ 2109.And so I had the bent frame of the driver's seat, how it bent like that, I have no idea. And I also had another driver's seat available, which was slightly bent, but not as much as the first one. (Can be done without an additional seat if there is a live joint on the back of the seat tilt adjustment knob)We need the following things: A key for 13. certainly a small head for 8. a key or a head for 10. pliers, a screwdriver - and a hammer, desire and about 6-8 hours of free time (it took me about so much time for everything)I'll start from the very beginning, and specifically with stage a removing the seat from the car :We take the handle, lift it up, roll the seat back, open the driver's door and look at the bottom of the seat, there we see that the seat is supported by 2 plastic pieces, fixed with 2 bolts, any, as well as rails, which are also fixed 2 - any small boltsWe remove two iron rods, which seem to act as springs, they are removed simply, they are simply pulled out with a screwdriver or with a key the end of the rod from a plastic thing, everything, removed, put in such a place to find them later, then with a key of 13 we unscrew the nuts that we see on plastic pieces (the first time they were stained and rusty, but they were unscrewed anyway), unscrewed, took out plastic pieces with nuts or bolts (for some reason I unscrewed three bolts and a current from one nut, but not the essence, back anyway everything will be screwed in normally) put in the same place as the iron rodsThen we lift the seats up in front of the seats, see the bolts on the rails on one and the other side, take a small cap head for 8 and unscrew these two bolts, unscrew them and put them in the same place as the plastic pieces.We lower the seat, sit on it and move it forward to the end.We sit in the back seat, remove the rug, take a flashlight and see that we have two bolts in the back again, unscrew them with a small cap head by 8, put the screws in the same place as the plastic pieces.Correct, the seat can be removed!In my case, I took it home (because I don't have a garage, and it's just not comfortable to do everything further in the car). The headrest was removed and left in the car.Subsequent seat dismantling stage :- I started by removing the trim of the upper part of the seat, for this a minus screwdriver and pliers came in handy, before that with a screwdriver we remove two plastic rivets from above, further down the seat there are such sharp pins that hold the trim, bend them with a screwdriver or pliers, carefully remove the rag and inside there are still snow-white rags that pass through the paralon, so you need to take it out more carefully, put it aside, carefully remove the paralon, take it off, put it aside, before us is a bent frame screwed to the bottom of the seat.Now we need a key for 10. With it we unscrew the bolt, which is from the side where there is NO handle for adjusting the angle of the seat. They unscrewed the bolt, removed the plastic part, there is another bolt 10 under it (you can not unscrew it, since it has nothing to do with the removal of the upper part of the seat).Now we go to the side where there is a seat angle adjustment knob. We remove the handle, in my case I came across two different types of handles (the handle in which the screw (1) was visible and the handle that covered the screw (2)). To remove the handle (2), you need to put a screwdriver inside and pry the plastic inside there, or just remove it and the screwed part remains, unscrew the handle (1) or what is left of the handle (2) with a 10 screwdriver and are not afraid, pull it out on myself. Unscrew the 2nd screw by 10 and remove the plastic.Now we are looking at this place where we just unscrewed and we see that there is a spring that goes to the hook, we lift the hook up from one side of the seat and on the other side, now our seat is held only by inserted pins, we are trying to push a screwdriver between 2 parts of the seat, where this pin is and we press out, if it does not come out with a screwdriver, then we try with a wrench or other objects, when we removed the piece of iron from the pin, then we simply remove the upper part of the seat.

Before repairing the carburetor unit, it is recommended to stock up on a repair kit, a can of carburetor cleaner and an acetone (solvent) bath for rinsing parts.

During the repair work, the following items may need to be replaced:

idle jet solenoid valve;
carburetor cover gaskets;
fuel valve;
springs, diaphragms, nozzles and their seals in the accelerating pump;
main fuel jets and their emulsion tubes.

The need for overhaul of a power unit on a VAZ 2109 usually arises after its long-term operation, as a result of which there is an increased depletion of the resource of parts.

The VAZ 2109 engine often requires overhaul after a long service life

Most often, the front of work involves the replacement of the following elements:

gaskets (oil pan, front and rear covers, cylinder head, intake and exhaust manifolds) and crankshaft oil seal;
pistons and piston rings;
connecting rod and main bearings;
valve mechanism;
distributor or ignition module;
fuel injectors;
spark plugs, etc.

In addition, it is necessary to clean the parts, as well as boring or honing the cylinders, and grinding the crankshaft.

After removing the cylinder head, it must be washed with acetone, the combustion chamber must be cleaned of carbon deposits. Parts such as the camshaft and the valve group are cleaned in the same way.

In the process of inspecting the state of the elements of the cylinder head, the need for replacement may be identified:

valves;
springs;
guide bushings;
valve tappets and shims;
cylinder head mounting bolts;
intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.

Additionally, it may be necessary to replace the camshaft. If it was found that there is an unevenness in the mating plane of the head, you can try to lapping. But experts recommend replacing it if the cylinder head is leaking.

There are several ways to fix a radiator leak in the engine cooling system. Among the quick but temporary solutions, the most popular are:

the use of sealing additives that are added to the coolant and clog the breakdown site;
hole putty by "cold welding".

In the photo, the radiator of the VAZ 2109 internal combustion engine cooling system, the elimination of the leak of which is solved in 2 ways

A completely satisfactory result is demonstrated by epoxy paste, with which the problem area is sealed from the outside. However, it is still better to resort to more reliable methods: brazing and argon welding.

As a rule, when repairing the clutch, they change: the release bearing, the clutch basket, the driven disc. Also, replacement may require a fork or clutch cable. As for the gearbox, after its disassembly, the axles, drive rod, lever and springs, rods, roller bearings, magnet, oil seals, gears, etc. are subject to main replacement. Minor damage can be repaired with ordinary sandpaper.

To repair the steering rack on the "nine", you need to buy special keys for disassembling it (if they are not available), as well as a repair kit, which consists of: a support sleeve with O-rings, roller and ball bearings, a retaining ring, an anther, a rack stop, a spring, thrust nut. The steering rack boot is also changing.

Although the design of the VAZ 2109 suspension is well adapted to bad roads and even off-road conditions, the repair of its elements is required quite often.

Typically, undercarriage rebuilding work involves repair and replacement:

hub bearings;
shock absorbers;
springs;
levers;
rubber bushings;
anti-roll bar;
ball bearings.

The development of stretch marks for the front suspension struts of the VAZ 2109 is solved by replacing with new ones

The most common front suspension problems are:

Wear of silent blocks: dismantling of levers, pressing out old ones, pressing in new silent blocks.
Development of ball joints: replacement, it may also be necessary to replace only damaged anthers of the ball joints.
Anti-roll arm wear: complete replacement or replacement of only side struts.
Failure of the hub bearing: replacement on the removed hub.
Development of front struts stretch marks: replacement with new ones.
Defective shock absorbers, subsidence or damage to the springs.

A striking factor indicating a possible malfunction of the suspension struts is the characteristic knock on a bumpy road. Both the assembled struts (shock absorber plus the spring) and the assembly elements separately can be replaced. The racks are disassembled using special spring pullers. Compression buffers, rubber pads, shock absorber rod covers are being changed. Replacing the shock absorbers and springs themselves is carried out in pairs (together the rear and together the front). Disassembling shock absorbers in case of wear is not recommended, as this may affect their factory performance. In addition, shock absorbers are often non-separable.

The brake system of the VAZ "nine" presupposes the presence of two circuits, as well as a vacuum booster, which rarely fails, but in such a case it must only be replaced or repaired using professional equipment. As for the rest of the brake system components, everything can be done in a garage.

The most common problem is the wear of the rubber parts of the main and working brake cylinders. Dismantling them is not difficult, and for repair, an affordable repair kit is bought, which includes all the necessary seals and oil seals. In second place in terms of the frequency of breakdowns is the rear brake pressure regulator, the so-called "sorcerer". Its malfunction is indicated by the emerging tendency to skid the rear of the car during braking. As a rule, the regulator is replaced as an assembly.

Repair of the VAZ 2109 brake system, in addition to the vacuum booster, can be done on your own

Brake hoses and pipes are also at risk of damage. In case of breakage or leakage, these elements are replaced with new ones. There may be an uneven development of the rear brake drums and front brake discs (risks, grooves, etc.), which requires either grinding (grooving) of the friction surfaces, or replacing these system elements.Also, refurbishment work may include repairing the calipers, replacing the parking brake cable, springs and rear brake levers, replacing the brake fluid reservoir and the brake pedal bushing.

A frequent occurrence in the case of a VAZ 2109 is a starter failure, when only a click is heard when the ignition key is turned. Most likely, this is a traction relay. If the relay is collapsible, then usually it is enough to open it, clean the "pyataks" and assemble in the reverse order. A non-dismountable relay will require the skills of soldering or buying a new assembly part.

In addition to the traction relay, replacement or restoration work may require:

Video (click to play).

Two types of generator were installed on the VAZ 2109: 37.3701 and 94.3701. Usually, for a complete overhaul of the generator, a repair kit is required, consisting of: a diode bridge, bearings, a brush assembly, a relay-regulator and a capacitor. In addition, it may be necessary to replace the pulley, repair or replace the armature, stator, rotor.

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