Sit boiler automation DIY repair

In detail: sit automation for boilers DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today the Rostov Plant of Boiler Equipment CJSC "Rostovgazoapparat" produces Siberia boilers, which are widely known in our country. The author of these lines had the honor to install such a boiler for himself in his own home. Everything would be fine, but in severe frosts, problems with the insufficient power of this apparatus began to appear. At first, I sinned on power, since the area of the heated house is 95 sq. m. and the declared power of the boiler is 11.6 kW. Naturally, the power reserve is too small, since the recommended reserve should be + 30% to the area of the house. My boiler must be at least 12.5 kW. that is, for heating 125 sq.m. Now a brief background for the buyers of Siberia boilers.

Before replacing the boiler, I had an apparatus from the Taganrog plant for 20 years - a combined boiler KGS-120. Designed for burning solid and gaseous fuels. It is clear that the combustion chamber is simple, the outlet into the chimney is direct, and there is no question of any efficiency. The boiler burned a maximum of 700 cubic meters per month. At the same time, the temperature in the house did not drop below 25 degrees! The new Siberia boiler burns the same amount, only the temperature on the boiler sensor does not rise above 74 ° C and in the house it is 22 - 23 ° C. The efficiency of Siberia is 90! I decided to figure it out, and read the results of the analysis below.

INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT PARAMETERS

All adjustments must be made in accordance with the specific requirements for the equipment on which the multifunctional regulator is installed. Check inlet and outlet pressures using gas pressure taps 6 and 7 (rice. WITH). After measuring the pressure, carefully seal the unions with the appropriate screws. Recommended tightening torque: 2.5 Nm.

Setting the maximum and minimum gas flow
These adjustments are made with a cold bulb.

Setting the maximum gas flow (version without pressure regulator) - (rice. A).
Turn the control knob 4 into position 7... Tighten the adjustment screw completely 2 , and then gradually turn it out until the required gas flow is achieved.
WARNING
After fully tightening, do not loosen the screw more than two turnover.

Disabling the maximum gas flow function
Tighten the adjustment screw completely 2 and then turn it out two turns and lock it in place. Disconnection can also be accomplished by replacing the adjusting screw. 2 plug (code 0.972.057). In this case, the plug must be completely screwed on.

Setting the maximum gas flow (version with pressure regulator) - (rice. A *).
Turn the control knob to position 7... When turning the adjusting screw 2’ clockwise (VERSION WITH PRESSURE REGULATOR) - gas consumption increases.

Video (click to play).

Deactivating the pressure regulator function
Tighten the adjustment screw completely 2’ clockwise.

Setting the minimum gas flow
Slowly turn the control knob clockwise to the minimum power position (close to the main burner shutdown position). When turning the adjusting screw 3 counterclockwise the gas flow rate increases. It is also possible to use screws with calibrated holes (available as an option) instead of the screws for adjusting the maximum and minimum gas flow. In this case, the screws must be tightened with a tightening torque of 7 Nm.

Adjusting the gas supply to the pilot burner
When turning the screw 5 clockwise - gas consumption decreases.

Disabling the pilot gas adjustment function
Tighten the adjustment screw completely 5’ and then turn it on two turn and fix.

Image - Sit boiler automation DIY repair

ATTENTION
After completing all adjustment and adjustment operations, check the tightness of the seals and the correct operation of the equipment. Flame tear-off or breakthrough is strictly not allowed at maximum and minimum gas pressure, respectively. After completing the adjustment work, fix the seals and / or adjustment screws with paint.

I am citing questions and answers from the old site, if you don’t find anything useful for yourself - write below in the comments.

Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions. However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.

DIY gas boiler repair

Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.

Content of step-by-step instructions:

First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.

Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity. And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.

A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.

To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.

At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.

The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.

Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.

Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.

Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that the unit will simply split at low temperatures.

If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.

Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system.As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.

You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.

Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper

A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system. The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.

Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.

On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.

Typical malfunctions of gas boilers

There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.

If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.

Gas boiler functionality diagram

Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.

If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.

Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.

Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.

It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.

You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.

Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta

According to the recommendations of the manufacturers, the heat exchangers must be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).

Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF

To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.

The problematic place of fans is their bearings. If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.

Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler

To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings. Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.

Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux

Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.

Gas boiler chimney diagram

Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.

Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.

The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This is usually due to a defective combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.

Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler

Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.

No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention. Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.

Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.

Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.

Remember! The gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.

Domestic heating units using natural and liquefied gas do not need constant monitoring by users. The combustion and maintenance of the required temperature of the coolant is monitored by electronic and mechanical units installed in any heat generator by the manufacturer. Our task is to explain how the automation for a gas boiler works and what types of devices are used in modern water heating installations.

The overwhelming majority of boiler plants of this type are equipped with safety automatics operating without an external power supply (non-volatile). According to the requirements of regulatory documents, automation equipment must shut off the gas supply to the burner and igniter in three emergency cases:

Attenuation of the main burner flame due to blowing out or for other reasons.
When natural draft is absent or sharply reduced in the chimney.
The drop in pressure of natural gas in the main pipeline is below the critical level.

For reference. The implementation of the listed functions is mandatory for all types of gas boilers. Many manufacturers add a fourth safety step - overheating protection. When the temperature of the coolant reaches 90 ° C, the valve stops supplying gas to the main burner on a signal from the sensor.

In various models of gas floor boilers from different manufacturers, non-volatile automation of the following types (brands) is used:

Italian blocks EuroSIT (Eurosit) of the 630, 710 and 820 NOVA series (heating units "Lemax", "Zhytomyr 3", Aton and many others);
Polish devices "KARE" (heat generators "Danko", "Rivneterm");
American automatic control devices Honeywell (heaters of the Zhukovsky plant of the "Comfort" line);
domestic products made by ZhMZ, SABK, Orion, Arbat.

Fuel supply system in the simplest AOGV devices equipped with ZhMZ valves. The burner is hidden in the lower part of the body.

We have listed the most common brands of automation, which are often installed on hot water boilers from one company.For example, the Zhukovsky plant equips budget versions of AOGV devices with its own ZhMZ safety units, heat generators of the middle price category with EuroSIT devices, and powerful models with automatic Honeywell valves. Let's consider each group separately.

Of all types of automation found in boiler installations, EuroSIT safety units are the most popular and reliable in operation. They are recommended by companies - suppliers of natural fuel, including for replacing old gas equipment of boilers KChM, AGV, and so on. They work without problems in the composition of microflame burners Polidoro, Iskra, Vakula, Thermo and others.

The exact names of the three models used are as follows:

630 SIT;
710 MiniSIT;
820 NOVA.

Thermocouple, main and pilot burner connections are located on the bottom panel

For reference. The SIT Group discontinued production of the 630 and 710 series, considering them obsolete. It was replaced by a new safety automation for heating boilers - gas valves 820 NOVA, 822 NOVA, 840 SIGMA and 880 Proflame (battery operated). But old products are not hard to find on sale.

In order not to bore you with the details of the design of automatic EuroSIT devices, we will briefly explain the principle of operation using the example of the simplest block of the 630 series:

By turning the knob to the “ignition” position and pressing from above, you forcibly open the solenoid valve, which allows gas to pass to the pilot burner (igniter). You click the button of the piezoelectric element, which generates a spark that ignites the wick.
By holding the main knob for 30 seconds, you allow the thermocouple to heat up with the pilot flame. The thermal balloon generates a voltage (EMF) of 20-50 millivolts, which fixes the electromagnet in the open state. The handle can now be released.
Set the main handle to the desired position and thus supply gas to the main burner. The latter is kindled and begins to heat the heat exchanger with the heating water, as shown in the diagram.
When the water reaches a certain temperature, a capillary sensor is triggered, gradually closing the second valve - a thermostatic one. The fuel supply to the burner stops until the sensor cools down and the valve disc opens the path for the gas. The igniter continues to burn in standby mode.

Note. Older automation modifications were not equipped with temperature sensors and ignition units, so matches were required to start the heat generator.

Connection diagram of the automation unit to the gas burner device

A diaphragm valve, which plays the role of a pressure regulator, is responsible for the normal gas supply in the device. When it falls below the set value, the fuel channel is closed and the boiler is shut down. Other situations also lead to failure:

The burner and the thermocouple heating wick are extinguished. The generation of voltage is stopped, the solenoid valve closes the fuel passage.
If the draft in the chimney suddenly disappears, the sensor placed in this channel overheats and breaks the power supply circuit of the electromagnet. The result is the same - the fuel supply is blocked.
In heaters equipped with overheating sensors, the electrical circuit is broken after the water reaches a temperature of 90–95 ° C.

When the gas automatics have triggered an emergency shutdown, the user is blocked from restarting the boiler for 1 minute, before the fuel supply will not resume. The work of the system is clearly reflected in the training video:

According to the principle of operation, these units do not differ from their predecessor - the 630th series. The changes to the 710 MiniSIT automation are purely constructive:

2 buttons "Start" and "Stop" are taken out separately together with the solenoid valve;

the main handle only rotates the thermostat stem and regulates the temperature of the coolant;

an ignition unit with a piezo igniter button is built into the product body;

the basic set of the device includes a bellows-type temperature sensor with a capillary tube;

added gas pressure stabilizer.

In the 710 MiniSIT unit, the handle acts as a temperature regulator and switches the heater into standby mode with a lit igniter

For reference. In the first versions of the 710th family, a spark igniter was not provided.

The latest 820 NOVA product line has been updated to improve stability, reliability and throughput. We want to highlight 2 enhancements that are important from a user perspective:

The product is equipped with a connector for a room thermostat and weather-compensated automation. Now the heating unit is able to maintain the air temperature in the apartment.

Connection diagram of a remote thermostat with an external power supply

A modification appeared with its own power source - a thermogenerator mounted on a bar next to the pilot burner, as shown in the diagram. The principle of operation is similar to that of a thermocouple, but the magnitude of the generated EMF is much greater.

Non-volatile room thermostat connection diagram

In this section, it makes sense to mention Honeywell automatic gas valves operating in a similar way. Their main difference is the increased throughput, which allows the units to be used in boilers of high power (30-70 kW).

The installation of Polish security systems on gas boilers is practiced by a few manufacturers. The reason is simple: in terms of reliability, the product loses to products from Italy, the USA and Germany, but at a price more expensive than domestic boiler automation.

We called the product “system” because it consists of several blocks, although the general principle of operation remains unchanged:

gas filter;
valve - gas pressure regulator;
there is a separate thermostat with a regulating handle;
membrane thermostatic valve;
piezoelectric igniter button.

Scheme of the Polish system "Kare"

The nodes and sensors are interconnected by capillary tubes. In fact, this is the same SIT or Honeywell device, only broken into separate parts. This is a plus: it is more convenient and cheaper to change parts.

As you understand, boiler automation made in the post-Soviet space does not contain any revolutionary solutions and technological breakthroughs. To implement the three safety functions, the same principles are used - the inclusion of an electromagnet by the voltage (EMF) of a thermocouple, a diaphragm gas valve and a thrust sensor that breaks the circuit.

ZHMZ safety valve diagram

It makes no sense to talk in detail about the construction of blocks from the brands SABK, Orion and ZhMZ (Zhukovsky plant). The listed products are distinguished by the simplest device, low cost and low reliability. Thermocouples burn out almost every year, and the thermostat turns off and starts the burner too abruptly, which causes a loud pop, sometimes resembling a microexplosion.

The devices work normally in the first years of operation, then they need to be monitored and serviced in a timely manner, fortunately, spare parts are on sale and are inexpensive. For an example of eliminating a typical malfunction of ZhMZ automation, see the video:

A feature of these heat generators is the electronic control of the processes of ignition, combustion and maintenance of the coolant temperature. That is, wall-mounted gas boilers (and some floor-standing ones) are equipped with volatile automatics powered by electricity.An important point. Despite the many "bells and whistles" introduced into the design of mini-boiler rooms, the safety functions are still in charge of the mechanics. The three types of emergency situations listed above will be handled by the equipment regardless of the presence of voltage in the mains.The automatic gas boiler was created for the maximum convenience of the owners of apartments and private houses. To start the heater, just press 1 button and set the desired temperature. Let us briefly describe the operation algorithm of the unit and the elements involved in it:

After the specified start-up actions, the heat generator controller collects the readings of the sensors: the temperature of the coolant and air, the pressure of gas and water in the system, and checks the presence of draft in the chimney.

If everything is in order, the electronic board supplies voltage to the solenoid gas valve and, at the same time, a discharge to the ignition electrodes. The wick is missing.

The main burner ignites and gives full power in order to heat the heating medium as soon as possible. Its work is monitored by a special flame sensor. The controller turns on the built-in circulation pump.

When the temperature of the coolant approaches the set threshold, which is fixed by the patch sensor, the combustion intensity will decrease. Step burners go into low power mode, and modulating burners smoothly reduce the fuel supply.

Having reached the heating threshold, the electronics will turn off the gas. When the sensor detects the cooling of water in the system, automatic ignition and heating will be repeated.

Note. In turbocharged boilers with a closed combustion chamber, the controller also starts and stops the fan.

The instructions for the wall-mounted gas boiler indicate that the unit is designed to operate in a closed heating system, therefore, the automation monitors the water pressure. If it falls below the permissible limit (0.8-1 bar), the burner will go out and will not ignite until the problem is eliminated.

Many imported boilers work according to the volatile scheme, for example, Buderus Logano, Viessmann and so on. How the installation of electronic gas equipment is carried out, the master will tell in an accessible language in a video:

Many homeowners self-service gas boilers. Hence, interest arises in the operation of the automation of one or another heat generator. We do not recommend touching on this area for home craftsmen who are not versed in the topic. The most that can be done is to clean the strainer, replace the unusable membrane or electromagnet. It is better to entrust the setting of the burner or igniter flame to the master - the gasman.Note. The article uses materials from the manufacturer of boilers "Lemax" posted on the official resource. Diagnostics of them c SIT 630 gas valve EUROSIT Types of faults 1. Pilot (pilot) burner does not ignite; Possible causes of the malfunction 1.1. Ingress of mechanical particles into the burner jet;1.2. Debris entering the pilot burner tube;1.3. Debris getting into the gas filter (if any);1.4. Loose connection of the pilot burner and the gas valve through the connecting pipe - as a result, gas leakage;1.5. Gas leakage through the pilot burner tube;1.7. The thermostat control knob is broken (broken);1.8. The gas valve does not open due to a malfunction in it. Troubleshooting methods 1.2.1. cleaning (purging) the pilot burner tube, replacing the jet;1.3.1. replacing or cleaning the filter;1.4.1. strengthen the connections by tightening the nuts;1.5.1. replace the pilot burner tube;1.6.1. replace or dry the electrode;1.6.2. if there is no contact between the electrode and the piezo cable, restore the contact;1.6.3. if the piezo cable is damaged, replace it;1.6.4. if the piezo igniter is not working - replace it;1.7.1. in this case, the "Gas Valve Operating Manual" is violated and the valve must be replaced;1.8.1. a valve malfunction can be considered a factory defect if there are no traces of mechanical stress, opening of units, corrosion and seals, tags and labels are intact.2. The pilot burner torch goes out when the thermostat control button is released. 2.1. the thermocouple is not heated by the pilot flame;2.2. lack of contact between the draft sensor or breaker, and the cable of the draft sensor itself;2.3. the cable of the traction sensor is damaged;2.5. thermo - EMF generated by the thermocouple is insufficient;2.6. there is no contact between the breaker and the thermocouple;2.7. the insulating gasket is broken between the case and the thermocouple contact;2.9. the solenoid valve block is defective. Troubleshooting methods 2.1.1. contact the service department if the inlet pressure is less than 0.6 kPa;2.1.2. blow out or clean the ignition burner, check by soaping;2.1.3. check and adjust the position of the thermocouple. Its tip should be engulfed in a flame 3-5mm from the edge. (If this distance is 6 or more millimeters, the thermocouple will quickly burn out);2.1.4. possibly due to a quick release of the control button. You need to hold it for 15 or more seconds;2.1.5. small pilot flame. Adjust the gas supply screw according to the "Installation instructions ..." p.p..5.3. on page 8. - regulation of gas supply to the ignition burner;2.2.1. carefully check all contacts on the breaker, sensor and cable. Tighten the contacts on the cable if necessary. They can be seated on a grease;2.3.1. the cable must be replaced;2.4.1. with the cable disconnected from the sensor, short-circuit the contacts. If the pilot flame does not go out, the sensor must be replaced. But do not rush to replace it, since the contact is usually restored after the sensor has cooled down (at least 15 minutes). As long as you can believe the draft in the chimney;2.5.1. disconnect the thermocouple from the solenoid valve block, leaving the tip in the pilot flame. Bring fire to the igniter and hold the button on the valve for 30-60 seconds. Then measure the EMF with a tester. It should be 0.3-0.4 mV. If there is no EMF, the thermocouple must be replaced;2.6.1. Unscrew the thermocouple clamp from the valve interrupter, clean its contact, and then put it back in place.When clamping the thermocouple, it is necessary to control the force. To avoid breaking the insulating gasket, the force should not be excessive, it is enough to tighten the union nut to the stop by hand and tighten with a wrench ¼ turn;2.7.1. replace the insulating gasket;2.9.1. replacement of the gas valve is required. If there are no traces of mechanical damage, opening of individual units, corrosion, and the seals, tags and tags are intact, replacement is carried out within the framework of the manufacturer's warranty obligations.Without exception, all SIT gas valves cannot be repaired; in the event of a malfunction, only their replacement is possible.Warranty replacement of SIT gas valves is carried out at the expense of the manufacturer, if there are no traces of mechanical stress on the body, opening of individual components, corrosion, control seals, tags and labels are not violated, and a complaint report of the service center or gas facilities has been drawn up. This is done when:- the magnetic block is defective;- pilot and main burners ignite at the same time;Replacing the valve at the expense of the owner of the boiler is carried out in situations when:- the knob of the regulator is broken due to violation of the rules of operation;- the thermal bulb (temperature-sensitive element) is crushed or deformed due to non-observance of the installation rules. The thermal bulb must be removed from the glass when performing electric welding on the equipment. Thermal bulb deformation is possible due to violation of operating rules, i.e. non-compliance with clause 8.3. Section 8 of the Operation Manual;- traces of mechanical stress, opening of individual units, corrosion are visible on the gas valve body, and at the same time control seals, tags and labels are broken.We bought a new Taganrog boiler Juncker. Floor standing, non-volatile. Automatic equipment Eurosit 630. Connected, pressurized, everything is fine. We lit the igniter according to the instructions, it burns normally. Then we turn on the main burner, 15 seconds pass, and the entire burner is turned off (both the igniter and the main burner). Because it is impossible to find a specialist in our hole, I ask for help - what can you try to check first?The first step is inflow and traction .. It looks like the problem is in them ..mitin, possibly bad contacts on the draft sensor (for example, this often happens on Siberia boilers); maybe bad traction.clean the igniter and see that the thermocouple is in the flamePUPKIN; I think if the thermocouple was not in the flame - the igniter would not turn on (and it burns when turned on) - perhaps I am wrong.I began to deal with the SIT 630 automation device. As far as I understand, there are two sensors that cause an emergency shutdown of the gas valve - a reverse draft sensor (thermistor?). And the thermocouple next to the igniter is a flameless sensor.I checked the draft - it sucks in with a bang the smoke from the burning paper. I removed both connectors from the traction sensor contacts, short-circuited them together. As a result, the valve began to turn off after about a minute (initially it turned off after 15 seconds). So it's not the thrust sensor?mitin, look in the instructions to see if there is an overheating sensor - maybe (if there is one), the contacts are also bad.
The sensors work like a relay: they open the circuit when heated, and when it cools, the contacts inside close.I will also assume that the trouble can be caused by a weak igniter flame; Turning on the main burner can deflect the pilot flame away from the thermocouple.mitin wrote:
what can you try to check first?Good day! I have a BERETA Novella Autonomy 24 floor standing boiler. I have been using it for 3 years. The problem is that the pilot burner began to ignite poorly for about 30 seconds, and the main burner also does not want to ignite until you pull all the wires knock on all the pipes, etc. Who may have come across a similar a problem, tell me how to eliminate the cause, Zaryanie is benevolent.ga.la wrote:
the main burner also does not want to ignite until you pull all the wires and knock on all the pipesSo check / clean up all the contacts on the sensors.
And if the boiler is being serviced, then on the next visit of the servicemen, voice the problem to them so that they check all the contacts.mitin, SIT 630 with black cap, or beige?Kasimov wrote:
Is the gas pipeline new?mvs wrote:
mitin, SIT 630 with black cap, or beige?Today the boiler started up (however, with a shorted reverse draft sensor - it is possible that it will work with it as long as it is left like that). Came in, turned on the igniter. Then he put the thermostat on one. Everything worked, the valve does not turn off. Then he gradually added up to 4. Also normal. I have not tried the above. Maybe the problem originally was that after turning on the igniter I immediately put the thermostat on 4?Serx wrote:
mitin, look in the instructions to see if there is an overheating sensor - maybe (if there is one), the contacts are also bad.
The sensors work like a relay: they open the circuit when heated, and when it cools, the contacts inside close.I will also assume that the trouble can be caused by a weak igniter flame; Turning on the main burner can deflect the pilot flame away from the thermocouple.Where is this overheating sensor (in the instructions, it seems, it is not written about it)?mitin wrote:
Where is this overheating sensor (in the instructions, it seems, it is not written about it)?It may not be there. If the instructions are not specified, then no.mitin wrote:
Then he put the thermostat on one. Everything worked, the valve does not turn off. Then he gradually added up to 4. Also normal. I have not tried the above. Maybe the problem originally was that after turning on the igniter I immediately put the thermostat on 4?Is there a difference in the intensity of the burner flame (during cold start) in your boiler, if the TP is set to position “1”, from “4”?Serx; I think it has something to do with flame modulation?what was sucked in from a burning piece of paper is not yet an indicator. in the instructions it is generally written what should be used to extinguish a lit match with a thrust. and it is also written that the length of the vertical part of the chimney outgoing from the boiler must be at least 1 meter. How much do you have?Fazan wrote:
what was sucked in from a burning piece of paper is not yet an indicator. in the instructions it is generally written what should be used to extinguish a lit match with a thrust. and it is also written that the length of the vertical part of the chimney outgoing from the boiler must be at least 1 meter. How much do you have?mitin wrote:
Where is this overheating sensorThe copper tube (from the device) ends with a thermoballoon.Tracking where she goes is no problem. This is a half-inch tube in the boiler drum. It is he who monitors the set temperature and he gives the command to shutdown when heating. It is tuned to 85 * (I don't remember). Everything, above for him * accident *.
mitin, I wrote it as I understand it. And esche. The igniter did not immediately light up, turn off the automation (do not close the tap!) And wait! Don't push the button down! Clicks are annoying. A minute, one and a half, then a new attempt to start. This is how it is harmful when starting. But it works great! Image - Sit boiler automation DIY repair

People, I ask for help. Today I ran into a problem with a client. Lemax boiler, automatic 630 Eurosit. The term of work is 3 months. The problem is as follows, when set to 5 and below, the work is normal indefinitely, but when you try to set the temperature to 6, the boiler is gaining about 70 degrees and. goes out. Completely together with the igniter. Moreover, it goes out without cotton, i.e. the flame from the igniter does not go out, but simply goes out. I turned off the overheating and thrust sensors, removed the tee and installed the thermocouple directly. The thermocouple gives out 35 mV. those. is also normal. The igniter cleared. When extinguishing, the flame from the thermocouple does not deviate. That is. the feeling that the contact is lost and the valve is triggered. If you light the boiler (no problem) and set it to 5, then everything works, when you try to add to 6 it goes out. I tried 10 times. I sin on the thermocouple, there is an internal break. There is nothing to replace ( In the store, I'm waiting for delivery). While I got out of this situation, I installed the boiler on a 7-ku, the house is under construction, therefore it is poorly insulated, and the boiler does not reach the shutdown temperature (maximum 83 degrees) In this mode, it has been working since 10 am. Gas consumption is not yet fundamental, the main thing is warm, there are 2 babies in the house. Maybe someone has come across. The problem seems to be somewhere on top, but.

vaz21063 wrote:
the boiler is gaining about 70 degrees and. goes out completely together with the igniter.

Shouldn't the igniter go out when overheated?

Serx wrote:
Shouldn't the igniter go out when overheated?

70 degrees, not overheating, besides, I turned off the sensors (for checking, then turn it on) Now only a thermocouple is in operation, without tees. It is connected directly to the EMC of the automation.

vaz21063 wrote:
70 degrees, no overheating

I don’t know how now, before the Zhukovskys with such automatic devices turned off due to overheating, when they were a little over 70.

vaz21063 wrote:
Now only thermocouple is in operation

Weird.
I was able to squeeze out of myself such a version, although I assess it not very likely.
With strong heating, the electrical conductivity deteriorates or somewhere the contacts “move apart”, plus the draft increases (the chimney heats up more, it becomes warmer in the room), the igniter flame may begin to deviate.

vaz21063 wrote:
installed the boiler on 7-ku

And if you manually extinguish the burner from this position, turn the figure below? What will happen? Will the fuse go out?

Check the gas pressure upstream of the boiler with the burner running.

Adjust the gas pressure to the burner with the pressure regulator.

Set the minimum pressure on the burner and normal pressure on the pilot.

mvs wrote:
Check the gas pressure in front of the boiler

the measurement was carried out with DNkoy, in front of the boiler, though with the burner turned off. The pressure is 230 mm. I did not measure further, because. There are no adapters. The minimum pressure regulator (under the temperature control knob) is set so, screwed in to the end and unscrewed by 1 turn. The igniter is cleaned and adjusted by eye (well, there are no adapters in our village), for stable combustion, which cannot be changed with further adjustment.

Slavik64 wrote:
And if you manually extinguish the burner from this position, turn the figure below? What will happen? Will the fuse go out?

Yes, everything goes out, though not immediately, but after about a minute, without a pop and deflection of the flame from the thermocouple. It would probably have worked even at 7, but because of poor thermal insulation, the house simply does not heat up until it is turned off. The hostess does not have a counter. , so the gas consumption is not fundamental. It feels like the power from the thermocouple was lost and the valve closed stupidly. I suspect that the thermocouple is broken, but they ran out in the store, in the "stash" too. I'm waiting for the delivery, and it won't be until Monday. Price the question is 250 rubles, so after replacing I will unsubscribe. Thank you all for participatingand help.

vaz21063 wrote:
I have a suspicion of a broken thermocouple

I can't believe it. Where is this break happens when the burner is on?

I would understand if the fuse went out when the burner was turned on, but vice versa

Unless the flame is blown out.
But if you believe

vaz21063 wrote:
the flame from the igniter does not go astray

then

Looks like you are missing something!

vaz21063 wrote:
poor thermal insulation at home

This means that there are “winds” there when the boiler is operating. So I increase the likelihood of my version (the new thermocouple will show

)
230 is a bit too much (mvs suggested adjusting the pressure), we set up the grp for 210
DN what is it?

DN - differential pressure gauge.
What other adapters are needed to measure the pressure on the boiler?
Ordinary hose 6-8 mm. On automation, two fittings are closed with screws.
The regulator must be left 130mm (If it is in front of the boiler with the burner ON)
Min pressure screw - 1 revolution - about 60mm - in principle normal.

Thank you all for your help. I finally figured it out.
In short: I changed the thermocouple (by the way, this infection increased in price from 250 rubles to 300 over the weekend) The boiler began to work normally for about 5 cycles. Then it again began to take out the “brain”. I had to disassemble the regulator knob (which s. Invented such a screw

) I could not find a screwdriver for this hexagon with a "sticky" in the middle, so I had to cut it with a hacksaw and unscrew it with an ordinary flat screwdriver. I could not remove the top cover (on 4 screws). It dangles, but cannot be removed. I was afraid to pull, but I saw the reason. At the edge of the “well” for the bellows there was a burr that did not allow the bellows to stand up straight. It was decided by picking it out with a knife. The siphon stood up straight. I started the boiler and checked 5 cycles. Everything is fine. I decided to check with the old thermocouple, but the story with the shutdown repeated itself. So the train of thought about the break in the thermocouple was correct, probably that small shock when the main burner was turned off was enough so that at an elevated temperature in the boiler the power from the thermocouple would disappear and the boiler, accordingly, would go out. . If that forgive.