In detail: do-it-yourself citroen evasion repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
For the driver of Citroen Iveyzhen it is no secret that the indicator on the dashboard "Check-Engene" is a Citroen malfunction signal. In a normal state, this icon should light up when the ignition is turned on, at this moment a check of all Citroen Evasion systems begins, in a working car the indicator goes out after a few seconds.
If something is wrong with Citroen Evasion, then "Check-Engene" does not go out, or it lights up again after a while. It can also blink, which clearly indicates a serious malfunction. This indicator will not tell the Citroen owner what exactly the problem is, it draws attention to the fact that the Citroen Iveigen engine diagnosis is required.
Since all foreign cars, not excluding Citroen Evasion, are tightly tied to electronics, a huge number of sensors monitor the operation of the car. Therefore, diagnostics of the Citroen Iveyzhen engine is, by and large, checking the most important unit of the car, with the exception of the suspension, which is checked mechanically.
There is a large number of specialized equipment for diagnostics of the Citroen Iveigen engine. There are compact and fairly versatile scanners that not only professionals can afford. But there are times when ordinary portable scanners do not detect malfunctions in the Citroen Evasion engine, then diagnostics must be carried out exclusively with licensed software and a scanner from Citroen.
Citroen Diagnostic Scanner shows:
- Throttle valve opening percentage;
- Engine speed in rpm;
- Citroen Iveigen engine temperature;
- Voltage in the on-board network of Citroen Evasion;
- The temperature of the air sucked into the engine;
- The ignition timing of the Citroen Evasion;
- Fuel injection time by the injector. Displayed in milliseconds;
- Citroen Evasion air flow sensor readings;
- Engine load;
- Readings of the oxygen sensor of the Citroen Iveigen;
Video (click to play). |
Before diagnosing the Citroen Iveyzhen engine, you should listen to him, in normal condition it works quietly, monotonously, confidently keeps the speed. When you press the gas pedal, it smoothly, without jerking, picks up speed, without extraneous sounds. At the same time, the exhaust is practically invisible. Also, in a normal Citroen Evasion engine, there can be no increased consumption of fuel and other fluids.
1. To diagnose the Citroen Iveizhen engine, first of all, the engine compartment is inspected visually. A serviceable engine should not have any leaks of technical fluids, be it oil, coolant, brake fluid. In general, it is important to periodically clean the Citroen Evasion engine from dust, sand, dirt, this is necessary not only for aesthetics, but also for normal heat dissipation!
2. Checking the oil level and condition of the Citroen Evasion engine, the second step of testing. To do this, you need to pull out the dipstick, and also look at the oil by unscrewing the filler cap. If the oil is black, and even worse black and thick, then this indicates that the oil has changed for a long time.
If there is a white emulsion on the filler cap or you can see how the oil foams, then this may indicate that water or coolant has entered the oil.
3. Checking the Citroen Evasion spark plugs. Remove all plugs from the engine; they can be checked one at a time. They must be dry. If the candles are covered with an insignificant layer of yellowish or light brown carbon deposits, then you should not worry, such carbon deposits are quite normal and permissible, and do not affect the work.
If there are traces of liquid oil on the Citroen Iveigen candles, then the piston rings or valve stem seals are likely to be replaced. Black carbon deposits indicate an over-enriched fuel mixture.The reason is the improper operation of the Citroen fuel system, or a too clogged air filter. The main symptom will be increased fuel consumption.
Red plaque on Citroen Evasion candles is formed due to low-quality gasoline, which contains a large amount of metal particles (for example, manganese, which increases the octane number of the fuel). Such a plaque conducts current well, which means that with a significant layer of this plaque, the current will flow through it without forming a spark.
4. The ignition coil of the Citroen Evasion fails not often, most often this happens due to old age, insulation is damaged and a short circuit occurs. It is better to change the coils in accordance with the mileage according to the regulations. But it happens that a breakdown is caused by bad candles or punctured high-voltage wires. To check the Citroen coil, it must be removed.
After removal, you need to make sure that the insulation is intact, there should be no black spots or cracks. Next, a multimeter should go into the course, if the coil is burnt out, then the device will show the maximum possible value. You should not check the Citroen Evasion coil using the old-fashioned method for the presence of a spark between the spark plugs and the metal part of the car. This method takes place in old cars, while on the Citroen Evasion, due to such manipulations, not only the coil can burn out, but also the entire electrician of the car.
5. Is it possible to diagnose an engine malfunction by smoke from the exhaust pipe of a Citroen Evasion? Exhaust can tell a lot about the condition of an engine. In the warm season, no thick or gray smoke should be visible from a serviceable car.
If white smoke is visible, then this may indicate a burnt-out gasket or leakage in the Citroen Iveizhen cooling system. If the smoke is black, then at best these are problems due to an over-enriched fuel mixture. At worst, problems with the piston group.
If the smoke has a bluish tint, then this indicates that the Citroen Evasion engine uses oil. In the best case, it will require replacement of the valve stem seals, in the worst case, the repair of the piston group. All this fumes greatly clog and reduce the life of the Citroen Iveigen catalyst, which cannot cope with the purification of such impurities.
6. Diagnostics of the Citroen Iveyzhen engine by sound. Sound is a gap, this is what the theory of mechanics says. There are gaps in almost all moving joints. This small gap contains an oil film that prevents parts from touching. But over time, the gap expands, the oily film can no longer be distributed evenly, friction of the parts of the Citroen Evasion engine occurs, as a result of which very intense wear begins.
Each node in the Citroen Evasion engine has a specific sound:
- A loud, frequent sound heard at all engine speeds indicates the need to adjust the valves;
- An even knock, which does not depend on the speed, is caused by the valve-distributor mechanism, which indicates the wear of its elements;
- A distinct short knock, increasing at higher revs, warns of the imminent end of the connecting rod bearing.
This is only a small part of the possible sounds as a result of certain malfunctions. Every Citroen driver must remember the sound of a normally working engine in order to react quickly to any changes in it.
7. Diagnostics of the cooling system of the Citroen Iveizhen engine. With proper operation of the cooling system and sufficient heat dissipation, after starting the engine, the liquid circulates only in a small circle through the stove radiator, which contributes to the rapid warming up of both the engine itself and the Citroen Evasion interior in the cold season.
When the normal operating temperature of the Citroen Evasion engine is reached (of the order of 60-80 degrees), the valve opens slightly to a large circle, i.e. the liquid partially flows into the radiator, where it gives off heat through it. In case of reaching the critical level under 100 degrees, the Citroen Iveigen thermostat opens to the full, and the entire volume of liquid passes through the radiator.
Together with this, the fan of the Citroen Iveigen radiator is turned on, it contributes to better blowing out of hot air between the radiator cells. Overheating can damage the engine and require costly repairs.
8. Typical malfunctions of the Citroen Evasion cooling system. If the fan does not work when the critical temperature level is reached, then first of all it is necessary to check the fuse, then the Citroen Iveizhen fan itself and the integrity of the wires to it are examined. But the problem may turn out to be more global, perhaps the temperature sensor (thermostat) is out of order.
The performance of the Citroen Iveyzhen thermostat is checked as follows: the engine is preheated, a hand is applied to the bottom of the thermostat, if it is hot, then it is in good order.
More serious problems may arise: the pump fails, the Citroen Iveizhen radiator leaks or clogs up, the valve in the filler cap breaks. If problems arose after replacing the coolant, then most likely an air lock is to blame.
MaHuaK »23 Feb 2012, 22:31
Korgik »30 Aug 2012, 19:08
XM TURBO GT »30 Aug 2012, 21:42
MaHuaK »31 Aug 2012, 00:45
Raiv "22 Oct 2013, 14:44
Good day, gentlemen!
I decided and I will share my little experience about the excellent car Citroen Evazion, maybe someone will find my observations useful!
I will introduce myself!
Citroen Evazion, 2002 onwards, 2.0 Hdi, 8 valves….
I bought this car at the beginning of autumn 2012, on a warm September day, and could not stop looking at it and get used to the miracle car, it was too good-looking. High seating position, comfortable, comfortable interior, in the absence of rear seats, a huge luggage compartment, road traffic, everything and much more in this car proved that the choice was right.
Then winter came soon, and the first frosts, and since this is my first experience with a diesel engine, I had to tinker and learn from the experience.
1. The first thing I did was to install a control panel on an additional engine heater, Webasto, which made it possible to start an already warmed-up engine in severe frosts (10 minutes is enough, both the engine and the interior are warmed up, which gives a huge advantage for starting and removing frozen snow and ice from windshield, and indeed from all glasses). The only small drawback is that the remote control is installed permanently inside the cabin and is not always on the program, and in order to get to it, you sometimes have to clear the driver's door. In the future, I plan to purchase a key fob with a remote start.
2. Due to frequent trips and long distances, I had to refuel Arctic fuel, while I refuel at a gas station of only one manufacturer. The plus turned out to be the lack of crystallization of the fuel (I have not seen paraffin for the whole winter, no matter how cold I went). But it turned out that it is undesirable to abuse the Arctic, the lack of "fat content" of the lubricant in the fuel leads to accelerated wear of the fuel equipment and very hard work of the engine. Now I refuel according to the temperature indicators: summer, winter, arctic.
3. Winter. When the interior heater is turned on, and due to the fact that I have climate control, the radiator fan of the engine cooling system and plus the air conditioner compressor immediately turn on (it is not clear why, of course, the frost is outside). With all this, the load on the engine, albeit a small one, increases, and the fan cools the engine that has not yet warmed up. My actions: 1st disconnect the air conditioner compressor connector, 2nd turn off the radiator fan. Result: 1. the clutch of the air conditioner and the air conditioner itself do not turn on, there is no load on the engine and generator 2. the engine warms up quickly, the load on the generator is less, the fan parts do not wear out. Little things, but nice ones. With all this, in winter the temperature does not rise above 85C, the interior heater is constantly working and, as it turned out, this is quite enough.
4. Spring. The indicator "ENGINE ERROR" began to light up on the dashboard, and in fact, as it turned out, the fuel pressure regulator on the high-pressure fuel pump began to screw up.This valve is the weakest point in the Bosch Common Rail fuel system. not adapted to our fuel. On the other hand, the service life of the regulator has probably simply expired. My actions: removed the regulator, took it to ultrasound, installed it. But the result did not satisfy me: the engine was smoking, there was no thrust, the engine was working hard. As a result, the regulator worked for another two months and finally died. I had to buy a new one. BUT! Before installing, I decided on an act that many drivers do not even want to think about. I decided to remove the engine for the purpose of cleaning, replacing or repairing related parts and assemblies.
Dismantling the front of the car, dismantling the cooling system components, the intercooler, the electrical part (electrical harnesses, sensors) and the engine itself to remove from the car, as it turned out, is not so difficult as I imagined. Bolts, nuts, small parts were folded into certain boxes in the same sequence as they were removed. The connectors of the wiring harnesses were signed when they were removed.
After dismantling and inspection, it was revealed:
1. The bumper is cracked in four places;
2. Hole in the intercooler radiator (rubbed against the power steering tube);
3. Burned out EGR valve;
4. The valve on the turbine did not work, and, probably, the turbine itself.
My recovery steps:
1. Bumper. Since it is plastic, I soldered it with a soldering iron and a fine metal mesh (I cut two filters from the fuel tank neck of the MAZ car), so to speak, I normalized it. After sealing, the bumper missed the black sealant "Sicaflex". As a result, it acquired its shape, became strong and resilient.
2. Intercooler radiator. With the help of pliers, I dismantled the two lower tubes from the radiator honeycomb, where there was a hole, and covered the holes along the edges with the same Sicaflex sealant. It turned out very well.
3. EGR valve. I just threw it away, and plugged the holes on the exhaust and intake manifolds. The vacuum tube of the valve control was plugged with a 6mm bolt.
4. Turbine. I took it off and brought it to the firm for a complete renovation. Issue price $ 350. We replaced everything with a new one except for the cast-iron body, which was cleaned with sandblasting. In general, like new. I'm happy!
Now you can collect the car!
Assembling the car turned out to be no more difficult than disassembling, everything is simple when you know what and where to put it - the engine, CV joints, radiators, bumper and front end.
Filling with coolant, engine oil, gearbox, steering wheel, filling the air conditioner and TD into the tank. We install the battery, check after assembly, get behind the wheel and start. Let the engine warm up until the thermostat opens, add fluid and go.
I have been driving for half a year now and I cannot convey the feeling, a completely different car - dynamics, acceleration, overtaking, engine operation, everything is fine! Consumption on the highway 6l / 100km
In the end, what I did to make the car run:
1. Threw out the EGR valve.
2. Ventilation of crankcase gases was vented into the atmosphere.
3. Removed the catalyst.
4. Repaired the turbine.
5. Cleaned the air flow meter.
6. Installed a new fuel pressure regulator on the injection pump.
7. Repaired the intercooler radiator.
8. I re-insulated the engine wiring harnesses.
Fiat Ulysse Clutch replacement!