Citroen Ksara DIY repair

I must say right away - DO NOT ATTEMPT to change bearings without removing the beam! As practice shows, this is almost impossible. Now in order.
Remove the beam - for this you need to unscrew only 4 screws (2 on each side, No. 2 and No. 3 in the figure).

The torsion bars in the beam are held on both sides (a bolt with an eccentric washer on one side No. 1 and a nut on the other). Besides, they are pressed in there, so you knock the hell out.
We remove the beam, put it on the ground and begin to heat it by gas welding in place No. 9 (without heating, you don't even need to try to remove it, the splined one shrinks so that ...).

After we unscrew the screw in place No. 1, we rest the lever on which the wheel is held against something firmly stationary, take something similar in size to the diameter of the torsion bar, put it in place and start BEAT WHAT IS POWER! (Having previously made a large notch on the torsion bar and the lever body, so that the slots would then fall into place. torsion tooth).

Knocking out a torsion bar is not so easy. But when it is knocked out, the lever comes out of the beam without much difficulty - very easily.

Further - no less interesting. If it comes to replacing the needle bearings, then they are not quite in good condition. The lever came out easily ... and the bearings not very well. They got stuck there. Knocking out the front (seat 8) is not particularly difficult, but you have to suffer. The insides spilled out on their own, tk. the separator itself scattered inside, but the clip ... it's finally tin.

Video (click to play).

It is not easy to remove it - it is 1.5-2 mm thick from the force, and at the same time it has become embedded in the beam ... in short, horror. The front clip was knocked out with a chisel, but to knock out the back one (place 4), I had to cut a metal support into tubes.

And, I also forgot - before knocking out the bearings, you need to pull out the stabilizer, it is inside the beam, it is easy to remove it. It stands on slots and is held by 2 metal caps. To remove them, you need to unscrew the fastening screw (a regular bolt for 13) and, having inserted a suitable bolt into it, screw it in until it stops. When the bolt rests against the stabilizer, it will begin to squeeze out the cover - and thus free.

On the reverse side of the beam, a pipe was inserted, on the other side it was held with a mounting clip near the holder, and it was slowly knocked out.

By about 4 o'clock in the morning, all the old bearings were knocked out. Further, everything is easier - you need to put everything back.

The collection procedure is as follows (before assembly, the beam must be well stuffed with grease, the bearings must be additionally greased so that it is easier next time):
1) first put the copper ring on the beam (it comes in repair kit No. 6);
2) then put the oil seal on the rear beam lever (no. 7);
3) then a large needle bearing (No. 8);
4) then a small needle bearing (no. 4);
5) and insert the whole thing into the beam until the lever comes to the torsion bar.

Next, you need to do everything with pinpoint accuracy - watch that the torsion bar along the splines returns to its original place and ... BEAT WITH ALL THE POWER!

When the torsion bars are in place, we put everything back, screw in the fastening screws, put the stabilizer and throw the beam back. The rest of the assembly is nonsense and a matter of time.

It took us about 13 hours to disassemble, study the design and assemble. By 7 o'clock in the morning we left with a new beam.

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