Do-it-yourself scanmatic repair

In detail: do-it-yourself scanmatic repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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So my Scanmatic is bent. I wrote to the manufacturers, asking them to give a diagram of the input part. The answer is:
———————————————————-
Hello, we are not sending the scheme.

If you have a lot of time for research, you can try to repair, but hardly.
The assembly of the board is multilayer and even burnt-out tracks are not so easy to find.
Isn't it easier to use the services of our dealers?

You can repair your old adapter. During the warranty
period for free. The cost of out-of-warranty repair or replacement of the adapter with
new -1900 rubles. Replacement takes no more than 15 minutes at our office.

Our dealers who have a test
equipment.
Thanks in advance for your understanding.
__________________________________________________ _
Best regards,
Evgeniy.

—————————————————————————————-
And the nearest dealer is 800 km away. There is no dealer in Crimea.

I typed in the search. It turns out that many people have this problem.
diagnosticians were and are. I decided to sit and sort out the seal and repair it myself. If we are repairing an ECU, then we will understand this matchbox even more. And so it happened. After a couple of hours, everything worked. The microcircuit for the exchange with the ST232 computer turned out to be defective. I was clearly warming myself, heating up the voltage stabilizer and, in addition, checked the passage of pulses from input to output with an oscilloscope. The signal did not go through. The microcircuit costs a DOLLAR. That's all the cost. I looked at how many burned out SCANMATICS from poor diagnosticians and decided to lay out recommendations for repairing SCANMATICS.
I think you will understand the diagrams that I am attaching. Basically, these elements fail. After all, they are connected to external connectors and voltage can be applied to them, from which there is no protection in SCANMATIC, as in other adapters. Perhaps this was done deliberately, in order to milk the diagnosticians. However, enterprising guys, although there are no complaints about the software, but IRON has not worked. Good luck to everyone in the repair!

PS. LM239 and 339 are the same and interchangeable. Difference in temperature range and that's it. All microcircuits cost a dollar.
You can take transistors from motherboards of old computers. Many types are suitable. [/ B]

Automotive diagnostic equipment

gnat »05 Jul 2010, 21:29 | Message: #1

wovik15 »06 Jul 2010, 02:14 | Message: #2

DEFO »06 Jul 2010, 13:47 | Message: #3

It was so. I asked the manufacturer a question, sent it to the “question-answer”, there is:
“. There was a problem with the scanmatic when viewing Ya7.2, I include variables, I write an application error. When you press any button, the scanmatic closes there were two such cars, and I used to watch them easily, the firmware did not change. Today, for the sake of interest, I caught 2110 BOSCH M1.5.4 and Gazelle Mikas 11 E2 VS8 works with them, I don't understand what's the catch?

The corresponding * .preset file may have been corrupted if the program terminates abnormally. It is necessary to delete it from the folder where the program is installed and create a set of variables again. "
The preset file is the configuration file for the variables we select. We delete it, do the set again. The program hangs, if you do not stop it, turn off the ignition, this error may appear. You must first stop the program.
By the way, the update is 1.48.

wovik15 »06 Jul 2010, 18:14 | Message: #4

VILER "14 Jul 2010, 13:25 | Message: #5

Softer »21 Aug 2010, 23:22 | Message: #6

Repair of Scanmatik at the officials costs 1900 rubles.
I, when replacing the comparator and transistor with OWN efforts, kept within half an hour of time and 50 rubles for a complete set.

PS: And in the place of the administrator, I would knock on the header for advertising the left site.

mex »22 Aug 2010, 12:59 | Message: #7

tj ™ »22 Oct 2010, 21:29 | Message: #8

SJocker »13 Mar 2011, 19:03 | Message: #9

segangk »13 Mar 2011, 21:56 | Message: #10

tj ™ »12 Apr 2011, 16:40 | Message: #11

tj ™ »07 May 2011, 14:45 | Message: #12

Aminbai »09 Aug 2011, 08:12 | Message: #13

fortravel »09 Nov 2011, 12:39 pm | Message: #14

DEFO wrote: It was like that. I asked the manufacturer a question, sent it to the “question-answer”, there is:
“. There was a problem with the scanmatic when viewing Ya7.2, I include variables, I write an application error. When you press any button, the scanmatic closes there were two such cars, and I used to watch them easily, the firmware did not change. Today, for the sake of interest, I caught 2110 BOSCH M1.5.4 and Gazelle Mikas 11 E2 VS8 works with them, I don't understand what's the catch?

I also had this and writes “application error and something to the memory address. the type cannot be “read”. It happened when I checked the "seven" and started to start the car. I had to contact Kharkiv for technical support (which I had not done before, I even thought about reinstalling Windows) The guys are great in technical support, even after working with me they communicated via Skype. I gave them remote access to my computer and connected the adapter, they looked and reinstalled a newer version of the program and it worked. miracles and nothing more. Several days passed again this situation. installed the old version it worked. and recently put a new one, everything works. the corresponding * .preset file may be corrupted if the program terminates abnormally. It is necessary to delete it from the folder where the program is installed and create a set of variables again. “You need to delete it from the folder where the program is installed and create a set of variables again. "I understand that you need to delete the scanmatics folder from the files programs completely. I understand that you need to delete the scanmatics folder from the files programs completely after reinstalling or installing a different version.

vladtar »09 Nov 2011, 18:53 | Message: #15

Scanmatic 2 stopped working, and it always connected via bluetooth! Through YUSB - the same does not work! Maybe someone like that?

I opened it, connected the power supply - there is no output from the KA78R33 stabilizer, I think this is the reason. Failed due to overheating (was not screwed to the board).

Typical problem. Immediately after purchase, you must put it on the radiator.

It's not about the stabilizer, I replaced it, between the 2nd and 3rd legs - a short one! According to the datasheet, the 2nd leg is 3.3V output, and the 3rd leg is mass. But where to dig next is not entirely clear.

ranet 19 May 2015

Check the microcircuits that are higher than the stabilizer.

D230 seems to be.Sore spot. Drink off and watch patalovo.

Yes, I did exactly this method - I soldered the microcircuits one by one (but not all, but those that had a 3.3 V power supply short circuit), checked for a "short". And I found it - the bluetooth module turned out to be faulty! Its marking: LMX9838SB. Looked at us in Ukraine - space prices! The Chinese have up to $ 20.

I always worked via bluetooth, from which I concluded that if this happens to anyone, start by measuring 3.3 V at the output of the 2nd leg of the voltage regulator. If it is “short”, as in my case, start with the bluetooth module, then with the VP230 CAN microcircuits, then with the L2901 comparators, and at the end - the STM32F105 percent itself. If you are using USB, keep in mind that the computer must be grounded! There are more severe cases, with burnout of radioelements and the board itself. Please note - the board is multilayer! That's all for now.

jeny 22 May 2015

in theory, you can screw any bluetooth module, it seems like lampichili to the first cm2.

Bluetooth module (National Semiconductor) not a problem, found it for $ 16, but how reliable is it? There is another manufacturer - Texas Instruments, this one is almost twice as expensive, and the brand is more impressive! In general, everyone buys according to their own pocket.

My percent closed the output of the stabilizer.

You can boil tea on STM32F105.

Guys, can you buy ready-made percent STM32F105?

jeny 08 Jan 2016

no, you need to flash it, the firmware is closed

Can I buy a proc with a ready-made firmware?

Or eats addresses where it is being repaired?

The manufacturer must write about this troubles - do not be lazy pliz with the same screenshots.

Dimm 03 Apr 2016

How did it end? Which Bluetooth module did you install?
Post has been editedDimm: 03 April 2016 - 16:05

@V - / - / 07 Mar 2017

Hello everyone. I need help with repairs, the scanmatic stopped seeing the kan, the cable rang all the buzz,

I rang the harness at the input, I found a closed element, I can not determine what it is, a transistor or some other crap. help what it is and how to replace it with the marking on it 610

Scanmatic 2.jpg 154.34K 99 Number of downloads:

Post has been edited @V - / - /: 07 March 2017 - 05:03

This is a KV1610S varicap. No offense. With such knowledge, do not bury yourself, send it better to the manufacturer.

@V - / - / 07 Mar 2017

This is a KV1610S varicap. No offense. With such knowledge, do not bury yourself, send it better to the manufacturer.

@V - / - / 08 Mar 2017

Hello everyone. I need help with repairs, the scanmatic stopped seeing the kan, the cable rang all the buzz,

I rang the harness at the input, I found a closed element, I can not determine what it is, a transistor or some other crap. help what it is and how to replace it with the marking on it 610

Scanmatic 2.jpg

I will answer to myself who can come in handy

The BSH-201 transistor is for connecting the K-line pull-up.

The problem was with the VP230 chip

kimych5700 22 Mar 2017

I will answer to myself who can come in handy

The BSH-201 transistor is for connecting the K-line pull-up.

The problem was with the VP230 chip

Post has been edited by kimych5700: 22 March 2017 - 04:22

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Diagnostics and repair of cars "Equipment, software and tools for diagnostics: discussions" We repair SCANMATIC

Location: Sevastopol
Total Posts: 642
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So my Scanmatic is bent.I wrote to the manufacturers with a request to give a diagram of the input part - 1900 rubles. demanded and time would have lost two or three weeks. I typed in the search. It turns out that many people have this problem.
diagnosticians were and are. I decided to sit and sort out the seal and repair it myself. If we are repairing an ECU, then we will understand this matchbox even more. And so it happened. After a couple of hours, everything worked. The microcircuit for the exchange with the ST232 computer turned out to be defective. I was clearly warming myself, heating up the voltage stabilizer and, in addition, checked the passage of pulses from input to output with an oscilloscope. The signal did not go through. The microcircuit costs a DOLLAR. That's all the cost. I looked at how many burned out SCANMATICS from poor diagnosticians and decided to lay out recommendations for repairing SCANMATICS.
I think you will understand the diagrams that I am attaching. Basically, these elements fail. After all, they are connected to external connectors and voltage can be applied to them, from which there is no protection in SCANMATIC, as in other adapters. Perhaps this was done deliberately, in order to milk the diagnosticians. However, enterprising guys, although there are no complaints about the software, but IRON has not worked. Good luck to everyone in the repair!

For brands for which special software modules have been created, there are applicability tables on the site (to view, click on the emblem of interest in the “Applicability” tab on the “Scanmatic 2” page
The tables list the types of systems, modes and capabilities for specific car models. The rest of the cars, for which there is no program module by brand, can be connected with the “OBD2” module, if the car supports the standard. In this case, the possible modes and systems will be determined by the standard, for more details see here
An example of how the "OBD2" module works can be seen in the video -

You can check the CM2 adapter from us or from our dealers who have test equipment. If there are none nearby, you can send the equipment to us for verification.
You can send, for example, by Russian Post to the address indicated on our website.
If you send by courier service, it is necessary that the parcel be delivered to our office at the “actual address”.

141071, Moscow region, Korolev, Pavlova st., Building 2, room IV (entrance from the end of the building).

There is no need to send to the office of the transport company in Moscow, it may be located 70-80 km from us and we will not be able to receive the parcel.

Be sure to attach a note with the following information:
full name,
full return address (to send the equipment back),
contact phone number,
e-mail,
a short but specific description of the problem (a message like “not working” does not indicate the essence of the problem at all).
If the warranty period has not expired, be sure to attach the original Passport with a mark of sale!

Read also: DIY pierburg 2e2 repair

PAZ, MAZ, KamAZ, VAZ. Allison automatic transmission, ABS Screen, MMZ 263, work with Volvo PTT, ECU M230 firmware and other new features

Development of programs requires new adapters for vehicles

One version of the program - two models of adapters: SM2 and SM2-PRO!

Full support for RP1210 standard! + new systems Lada, KamAZ, MAZ, PAZ, including Mercedes engines and ECAS system

In this topic, I ask you to upload your work and just where you found it on the Internet

and so steal from other forums and will try to put it together))

To begin with, a photo from both sides of the board to search for denominations and where what is worth

Scanmatic 2 stopped working, in devices on the laptop “unknown device” - the driver does not install. On a desktop computer, everything is the same. I disassembled the scanner and found that the fuse on the board near the usb connector is VERY hot.
solution

the fault was here USBLC6-2SC6. circled in the picture

I connected via bluetooth to the car - and in response there was silence.I decided to check on another car - the same thing! The cable rang - intact. Connected via YUSB - it is not detected by the computer at all, the LED is off. It looks like there is no power inside the adapter
searches and verification
I started dialing with a voltage regulator (3.3 V) - a short circuit between 2 and 3 legs! The same short circuit on CAN microcircuits! Moreover, the regulator was replaced today, it did not help. I will take turns soldering the canoe microcircuits - it will be seen further.
In the photo, the circles show the closure.

solution

It turned out that the bluetooth module was closed. I dropped it and everything is ok. Its marking is LMX9838SB

lately, a lot of scammers have become more active, catching buyers on well-known names and low prices.
be careful

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Quote from product website, “OBD2 Module” page:

... “Despite the fact that in Russia the OBD-II standard has been introduced only since 2008. (as part of the Euro 3 requirements), most foreign car manufacturers supplied cars to Russia that meet the European EOBD standard (cars from 2001). The exception is some models of cars Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Fiat, Nissan and Renault, which were officially supplied to Russia until 2008 ”.

‘EVG-ARM’ * ’368777’ * ’20 .11.2008, 19:35 ′]. According to the instructions from the UAZ, the brake sensors are regulated as on a gazelle.

But for some reason, in the ME scanmatics in the date, alas, the levels of sensors 1 and 2 are given by a pair, either both are on or both are off (there is no state change mode).

Therefore, I regulate purely by instinct, guided by how this is approximately worked out in Mikas-11 ET in a gazelle.

Dear! Please write - where to download the instruction. on pedal tuning? It was Gazelles who were tortured!

And on the site of Scanmatik I can't find anything “on adjusting / tuning” the pedals.

Thanks in advance to ALL for your help!

‘Savar’ * ’369389’ * ’22 .11.2008, 19:46 ′] Dear! Please write - where to download the instruction. on pedal tuning? It was Gazelles who were tortured!

And on the site of Scanmatik I can't find anything “on adjusting / tuning” the pedals.

Thanks in advance to ALL for your help!

At first glance, errors on the sensor are harmless - they do not even light the lamp errors.

But thanks to the glorious manufacturer who does not regulate them at all, they bring a surprise to the driver while driving.

We only adjust when the car arrives at the first T.O. ...

A common complaint is that the damper stops opening while driving - the car accelerated even when switching gears or simply by dropping the gas and pressing again - the damper does not open - it is usually the brake sensors that are to blame.

The ECU has such a mode that does not work correctly if it does not see these sensors.

The scanmatic contains flags for enabling clutch sensors and two brake sensors.

The brake limit switch gives two signals - since when the position is pressed, one pair is closed and the second is open - when you press the pedal, the state of these contacts changes.

There is also "byada" - pedal backlash and free play - before adjusting, it is also advisable to remove these moments to a minimum.

But alas, my locksmiths, roughly speaking, are not able to do this correctly (a task for the third grade) - and I am too lazy, since it is not really my bread.

Therefore, I do so that the sensor resting on the pedal removes these backlashes so that until the moment when the rod of the vacuum amplifier starts to rest after about 5 mm of pedal travel against the rod of the master cylinder. The main thing is not to overdo it so that the vacuum amplifier does not start to work and there is no air release through it. The clutch has one state and, as a rule, the sensor is stupidly screwed up to thaw, which always gives the information that the clutch is disengaged.

The result of the ECU does not switch to different power maps - the computer cannot calculate the transmission due to this error.

What to do - in our country it is customary to hate those for whom they produce what they buy from the manufacturer.

A slussary is usually self-taught and, alas, cannot do some of the simplest operations.

On A2, the process is described there and it is exactly the same as that of a gazelle (except for the case that for some reason it is not displayed so in the scanmatic).

And the rest will come when you try.

Adjust and slightly shake the pedal with your hand so that you feel that the rods are not resting - there should be no false triggering.

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In this topic, I ask you to upload your work and just where you found it on the Internet
and so steal from other forums and will try to put it together))
To begin with, a photo from both sides of the board to search for denominations and where what is worth

the fault was here USBLC6-2SC6. circled in the picture

I connected via bluetooth to the car - and in response there was silence. I decided to check on another car - the same thing! The cable rang - intact. Connected via YUSB - it is not detected by the computer at all, the LED is off. It looks like there is no power inside the adapter
searches and verification
I started dialing with a voltage regulator (3.3 V) - a short circuit between 2 and 3 legs! The same short circuit on CAN microcircuits! Moreover, the regulator was replaced today, it did not help. I will take turns soldering the canoe microcircuits - it will be seen further.
In the photo, the circles show the closure .

It turned out that the bluetooth module was closed. I dropped it and everything is ok. Its marking is LMX9838SB

lately, a lot of scammers have become more active, catching buyers on well-known names and low prices.
be careful

what I found laid out the rest for the users of our site))

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Yesterday we were unable to connect to the power package on Grant. The device is original, I tried two versions of the software: the older one and the newest one. Grant 2017, ECU Itelma M74 CAN. It connects to the ECU without problems, connects to ABS, to the EUR unit too. The only problem is with the power package - when choosing any, it says “There is no connection with the ECU. Check if the ignition is on, if the adapter is connected ”. I tried all 8 pieces.
What could be the problem and how to solve it?

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I bought myself a scanmatic 2 for my work, as I used to, that's all, I took a used one, well, like the original

Please Login or Register to join the conversation.

In this topic, I ask you to upload your work and just where you found it on the Internet

and so steal from other forums and will try to put it together))

To begin with, a photo from both sides of the board to search for denominations and where what is worth

the fault was here USBLC6-2SC6. circled in the picture

I connected via bluetooth to the car - and in response there was silence. I decided to check on another car - the same thing! The cable rang - intact. Connected via YUSB - it is not detected by the computer at all, the LED is off. It looks like there is no power inside the adapter
searches and verification
I started dialing with a voltage regulator (3.3 V) - a short circuit between 2 and 3 legs! The same short circuit on CAN microcircuits! Moreover, the regulator was replaced today, it did not help. I will take turns soldering the canoe microcircuits - it will be seen further.
In the photo, the circles show the closure.

solution

It turned out that the bluetooth module was closed. I dropped it and everything is ok. Its marking is LMX9838SB

lately, a lot of scammers have become more active, catching buyers on well-known names and low prices.
be careful

To view, you need to log in.
If you are not registered yet, follow the link: Registration.

Diagnostics is one of the most interesting and difficult professions, I think it is necessary to start gradually and sequentially, and first you need to purchase a scanmatic diagnostic scanner for diagnosing electronic systems and control units (ECU) Scanmatic is combined with Russian cars with many European American and Japanese cars, it costs about 12,000 rubles ... complete with corresponding males, which includes a small block and three cables with it, one of which is for VAZ cars of old models, a light cable for GAZ cars and a third cable for foreign cars and fresh cars from the VAZ family.

Here we will tell you about the diagnostics of a simple car VAZ 2199 produced in 2003. There is a diagnostic connector under the glove compartment of the passenger seat, into which you need to plug in a cable intended for foreign cars and VAZ front-wheel drive versions. There is an ECU next to it under the cladding. Then we turn on the ignition and turn on the scanmatic, which is connected to a personal computer and we see a list of cars on the screen. Then we turn on the engine, auto-detection and the computer will immediately display the errors that are present in this car.