Scarlet oil heater DIY repair

In detail: scarlet oil heater DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Electric oil heaters are common devices and are highly reliable, but it happens that even such simple devices fail. In a situation where the heater does not turn on or does not heat well, you need to check the availability of the warranty card. With a valid warranty, it should be taken to a service center. But it often happens that such an opportunity is absent, and the repair of the oil heater will have to be done by hand. In this case, it is necessary to consider the possible causes of breakdowns and find out methods for their elimination.

Different models of heaters can have a different number of heating elements, thermostats and switching devices for connection and connection. They also have forced air systems to enhance convection and increase heat transfer.

The heating elements are housed in a rugged, sealed, ribbed, oil-filled housing covered with a durable dielectric powder coating. The switches are attached to the outside of the heater. All connections of heating devices and external control elements are connected through a hermetically sealed sleeve.

The circuit of the oil heater is constructed as follows: the supply wire with a plug is connected through switches and a thermal fuse to the heating elements. In this case, the thermal fuse provides a break in the supply circuit in the event of an emergency overheating of the device. The latest models of oil heaters are also equipped with a position sensor that turns off the device in the event of a fall or critical deviation from the operating state.

Video (click to play).

If a decision is made to fix the malfunction with your own hands, then the analysis of the heater should be started from the side of the power cord connection. In most cases, it fits over the cover covering the control panel and is secured with external screws. By unscrewing them and removing the control panel cover, you can gain access to all safety and switching devices.

This completes the analysis of the heater, since it is highly undesirable to break the tightness of the case. In 90% of cases, any malfunction is a failure of control systems or an open contact outside the sealed case.

Typical heater malfunctions are as follows. When the device is connected to the network, the automatic protection on the switchboard is triggered. This is a sign of a short circuit. Repair of oil heaters in this case is performed by determining the location of the short circuit and eliminating the cause of the short circuit. If the device does not heat up or heats up weakly, there can be many reasons. You can find out why the device does not work by dialing the circuit and identifying the faulty element.

Traces of oil on the body and floor will indicate a leak. It is necessary to find the place of the leak and restore the integrity of the case. You will need tools to fix a heater, but they are common enough to be found in any home.

It is necessary to consider in more detail each of the possible breakdowns.

If an oil leak is found on the body of the device, you need to find the place of the leak, weld it or solder it. In the latter case, silver solder should be used, it is impossible to solder with simple tin.Leaking oil will not allow high-quality soldering of the leak, which means that you will have to drain the oil and only then solder using a burner. Then you should check the tightness of the soldering point by filling the heater with water. After making sure that the liquid does not leak at the leak, it must be drained and the heater dried by heating.

After all the water has evaporated, you can pour oil into the heater. Before pouring, the substance should be heated to 90 ° C. In case of significant leakage, the entire volume must be changed, using transformer oil if possible. When filling the heater, leave room for thermal expansion. It is strictly forbidden to add another oil, since the brand of the original product is unknown, you can accidentally mix mineral with synthetic. The entire volume of oil must be replaced.

The noise in the heater can be both intermittent and constant. The source of noise after switching on may be water, which got into the oil in the form of steam during assembly due to the high humidity in the workshop. As water heats up, it changes from a liquid to a gaseous state and produces a crackling sound.

Bursting air bubbles can also be a cause of startup noise. This happens when the heater is carried and the oil is shaken in it. After warming up the device, these noises disappear and do not pose any danger for further operation.
Constant crackling is the cause of a malfunction of the electrical part of the heater. It should be found and eliminated, since such a device cannot be operated.

Also, the heater can crackle with linear expansion of parts, the dimensions of which change when heated. This is also not dangerous, in addition, the sounds disappear when warming up.

If the oil cooler stops working, this is most likely due to problems and malfunctions of the electrical part. The check should begin with dismantling the cover that covers the heater wiring diagram. After that, using a tester, you need to check the serviceability of the power cord. The defective element is found by alternate dialing. Then you should switch the tester to the resistance measurement mode and check the condition of the conductors. If the resistance of at least one conductor differs from zero, the plug or wire is replaced.

It will not be possible to repair the electrical part, except for the cord, at home. It is necessary to remember, and it is better to photograph the order of connecting the terminals, and then dismantle the faulty sensor. In the store you need to purchase the same one and install it in place of the old one.

The bimetallic thermostat is located next to the heater mode control keys. It is a rotating handle connected to a moving contact and a bimetallic plate. It consists of two different metals and is capable of changing its linear dimensions depending on temperature, and when the ends are rigidly fixed, it can bend and close the contact.

The serviceability of the bimetallic thermostat is checked by connecting it to the tester. By gradually turning the heater temperature control knob, the resistance is measured at the relay terminals. The resistance must be equal to 0 at all positions of the regulator. Otherwise, you need to wipe the contacts with alcohol or clean them with emery paper (zero). If the manipulations did not lead to normal operation of the regulator, it should be replaced.

The number of these elements depends on the heating element connection diagram and the set of heater modes. In most cases, the device has 3 operating modes and 3 self-healing thermal fuses, with 2 heating elements of different power installed.

Thermal fuses are located in glass fiber protection tubes. By checking the resistance of each of them, you can determine the health of the elements.In the event of a malfunction, the thermostat must be replaced. After repairs, the resistance of the circuit should be checked in each mode of operation of the heater.TEN (tubular electric heater) for an oil heater consists of a shell - a tubular metal body, nichrome spiral and quartz sand, which insulates the spiral from the tube walls. At both ends, the tube is sealed with bushings through which the heating coil leads are connected. They have no polarity and are arbitrarily connected to the network.The most common malfunction in the heating element is a break in the spiral heating element (nichrome thread). To check, you need to touch the tester's probes to the terminals of the heating element in the resistance measurement mode. When the multimeter 1 appears on the display (the resistance is equal to infinity), a thread break is diagnosed.

If it turned out that the heating element for the oil heater burned out, then repairs would be required, which would be very difficult. This is the search for a heating element of the desired configuration and power, its pressing out of the case with the accompanying oil drainage process, replacement of the heating element, oil filling, sealing, etc. It is easier to buy another heater, since repairs will result in almost the same amount.

The sensor for the fall or vertical position of the oil heater is a system of a weight and a spring-loaded arm in equilibrium. In the vertical position of the heater, the weight acts on the lever, and that on the limit switch that closes the network. When the position of the oil heater is changed, the balance of the system is disturbed, and the switch breaks the contact.

2 wires leave the position sensor. Measuring the resistance of the sensor in different positions, determine its serviceability. If the oil heater is in a vertical position, the resistance at the ends of the sensor should be zero. In a tilted state, the resistance should be equal to infinity. If the measurements are abnormal, then the sensor should be replaced.

Bimetallic plates are the basis! Household heating appliances were marked, the electric kettle was conquered, and right under the button they were located. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, the device turns off after waiting for the right moment in time, driven by steam, with a brisk click. Oil heaters are equipped with a similar mechanism, only more complicated. More reminiscent of what was seen in the iron, mostly of the old modification. The screw mechanism is set in motion by the thermostat knob, pressing the contact more or less against the bimetallic plate (slightly simplified interpretation, but the approximate meaning is this). They say that it is better to see once than to try ... to hear a hundred times. Meet fresh photos before the model is copied by competitors. The story about repairing an oil heater with your own hands will be based on the pictures taken.

It is good to cover the oil heater with clothes to dry. The only type of appliance where the owner will avoid fatal consequences. The only thing is that on the side of the accordion container there is an extension equipped with electronic filling; avoid covering the compartment. The oil heater device includes the following elements:

Emergency shutdown sensor (thermal fuse, relay)

A container filled with oil. Appearance - a poured accordion, heating up to a decent temperature, wait a moment to touch it with your hand. When it comes to drying things, put heat-tolerant ones fearlessly. The container is sealed, but there is 15% air inside. Try to put the oil heater upside down, roll it on one side, return the load to the wheels. Heard thuds scare mice: air bubbles burst inside. Water is not used by the heater, it will quickly evaporate, the corrosion of the body will become significant, the manufacturing technology would require the complete exclusion of air from the working fluid (water + oxygen = the most powerful oxidizing agent of living nature).The coefficient of thermal expansion of the most common liquid on the planet is ten times higher than that of steel. It's not good if the tank bursts.
The lower part of the end of the accordion contains a heating element, to which the electronics compartment clings. The oil heater has no pump and works by natural oil recirculation. The current starts up from the heating element, then the liquid goes down at the opposite end of the battery. While working, it emits the vibration of the spiral, which is audible, under the influence of alternating voltage. The effect is unavoidable, due to the influence of the Earth's magnetic field. The boiling point is above 100 ºС (150-200), avoid touching the container, until the phase state changes, the liquid is not brought due to the prohibition of the use of water: the container will rupture. TEN double (two spirals), will allow more flexible regulation of heating.
There is a thermal fuse not far from the heating element. The device will not allow a fire to happen, if suddenly oil leaks out, the temperature relay breaks. The oil heater would work hard when the copper heating element began to melt. Oil will leak out - high temperature through the housing will cause the stuck-on thermal fuse to trip. The structure distinguishes between bimetallic (reusable) or wire (disposable). The photo shows the presence of a clearly blackening tablet above the heating element: a thermal fuse (see the first photo of the review), or a thermal relay (determined by the design).

Steel profile connecting the electronics compartment and the heater accordion

The relay is located at the top. The main difference from the iron is visible: there is no contact with the body. It can be seen that the thermal relay simply tramples the air. An oil heater resembles an electric kettle in a marked feature, in which the bimetallic plate is often exposed to steam penetrating through a special opening in the case. A thermal relay is an adjustment mechanism, a thermal fuse is designed to localize the case of failure of standard equipment.
The pictures show: there are two switches, each has a phase, the ground of the heating element, one wire of the thermal relay. This redundancy allows the indicator lamps to glow. One phase is not enough to provide the Joule-Lenz effect. The manufacturer does not know in advance which side the user will plug in the plug, whether the blue (red) wire will be neutralized, and is exposed to 230 volts.

Read also: Vesper DIY repair

The electrical part differs little from an iron, an electric kettle, a water heater. You can turn on both spirals of the heating element at the same time, separately. In the latter case, the oil heater will take longer to reach the mode. There is a chance that in a cold room the structure will work without interruption at all.

Earth's magnetic field researcher listens to the whirring of an oil heater coil

Close the air passage holes in the electronic circuit - nothing will burn, the oil heater will turn off ahead of time, restart will not take place soon, a drying woolen sock will prevent the flow of a fresh jet. The bottom of the casing of the electronic unit is cut with supply slots. The air leaves the floor, it follows, bypassing the wires, reaching the upper exit. Along the way, the bimetallic plate estimates the moment when heating stops.

The photographs of the oil heater show: the electronic unit is sealed in one piece with the accordion. This is not true. Do not cover hides a pair of screws, the retaining bracket is held in place by a spring in the bottom. It is clearly visible with the naked eye, explanations are unnecessary:

the spring is unfastened;
the bolts are unscrewed.

Inside the casing of the oil heater, most of the electrical connections are made with detachable terminals. If necessary, remove the switches, the bimetallic relay by unscrewing the screws from the inside, disconnecting the wires. Please note: the heating element is tightly sealed. Shows the desire of manufacturers not to allow anyone inside.

The cunning technician knows how to get to know each other

The heating element breaks down more often, the tank leaks.The oil heater becomes completely unusable. The relay will last for years. Today, Soviet irons are widespread, they are still workable. It is impossible to repair the mechanism. It is necessary to clean oxidized contacts with alcohol. Repair of electronic filling is limited to the replacement of elements mainly. Thermal fuses are too lazy to repair: it is difficult to calculate the response temperature. Masters avoid taking responsibility. Keys, relays should be cleaned from time to time.

The main thing is the replacement of heating elements, oil, repair of holes. Those who want to take it should know: air is certainly stored in the tank. Acts as a cushion when the oil begins to expand. Protects the tank from bursting. When replacing, use transformer oil, waste oil is not suitable, it will cause the heating element to grow with scale.

Synthetic varieties are incompatible with mineral varieties. Those who wish can be well interpreted by the old-timers of automobile forums. The mechanism is cleaned of oil if there is no certainty which type is filled in before repair.

Avoid soldering the tank. Take non-tin solder - brass, copper-phosphorus, silver, use a torch. Refrigerator repairman equipment will do. It is recommended to fill the inside of the tank with water to avoid fire. Accordingly, after work, the container must be dried. Before filling the oil is evaporated at a temperature of 90 ºС. Beware of persistently heating the liquid - it will begin to oxidize, burn. Of course, you can freeze the oil. A thin stream is passed by a trough having a negative temperature. The oil is filled to 90% of the capacity of the oil heater; it can be measured in any available way, with water.

How to remove the heating element depends on the design. There is information about collapsible and non-collapsible versions. Try to select a heating element of the same power. The sheath is made of copper tubes. The tank of oil heaters is steel, there is a possibility of corrosion caused by the formation of galvanic couples.

Small holes can be screwed in with bolts. Lay the thread with putty, apply heat-resistant sealant. Leaks are difficult to avoid. A sealant alone is not enough, heating-cooling cycles will cause cracks. No wonder the body is made with an accordion. The structure of the metal dampens the lion's share of deforming loads.We have listed the main types of malfunctions. Self-repairing oil heaters, when it comes to holes, is a laborious, thankless task. However, have an inverter for welding thin sheets at hand, localize the hole. It is important to remove, by repairing the rust layer, the corroded areas, to allow the seam to catch on. Repairing an oil leak has a chance of being successful.The fall sensors fell silent. The input of the electric circuit of the oil heater is preceded; at a certain roll, the power supply of the device is turned off. Checking the operation of the element is not difficult. Lay on one side, ring the contacts. Repair of the oil heater drop sensor is not justified by the risk caused by improper operation. Along with the thermal fuse, we see an element that ensures operational safety. Information regarding the repair has been presented, we hope the story is useful for novice craftsmen. The pros themselves know how to fix the problem.Do-it-yourself oil heater repair is quite real. Many owners successfully restore the functionality of these heat sources without resorting to the services of craftsmen.When starting to repair any electrical appliance, you need to know two things - how it works and how it works. The oil heater consists of:

metal case;

Heating element (heating element);

control unit;

connecting wires.

Oil is poured into the heater body, which, when turned on, is heated by the heating element. Heat is transferred to the walls of the case, and from them to the heated room. When a certain temperature is reached, the control unit is triggered and heating stops.The cycle repeats as long as the heater is connected to the mains. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained in the heated room.There are not so many reasons why the oil heater does not work. They can be conditionally divided into two parts - electrical and mechanical. Failure in work electrical equipment most often falls on heating elements and control communications - thermal relay, switch, thermal fuses. There may be a problem in the wiring, but this is extremely rare.TO mechanical Damage includes various holes in the housing, as well as the formation of cavities on it through which oil flows out. As a rule, these are the fruits of corrosion activity. Determining the type of malfunction is not a big deal. Mechanical breakdowns are always associated with oil stains under the heater. All other faults are related to the electrical part.To repair a heater, you first need to create conditions for this. One of the main prerequisites for a successful renovation will be preparation for it. First of all, you need to choose a place where you will disassemble the heater. It should be large enough and well lit. A garage or a separate room is best suited for this.Then the tool and accessories are prepared. Since the device of the heater does not represent any complexity, then the tool will be the most ordinary one. A set of screwdrivers, pliers and side cutters, a small hammer and an awl - this will be enough for repairs. Before repairing, you must have a soldering iron, a tester, WD-40 liquid, grease (Graphite or Litol-24) and a little alcohol to wipe the contacts. There must be a clean rag. If the cause of the breakdown is determined in advance, then spare parts are needed to replace the failed parts.

The question of how to repair an oil heater with your own hands arises for everyone when the device stops working. Meanwhile, there is absolutely no difficulty in this matter. First of all, it is necessary to carry out disassembly in order to get to the object of repair. To do this, detach the control panel from the case. As a rule, it is secured with snaps. But there is also a fastening of another kind. For example screws or staples.Therefore, first you need to carefully inspect the heater in order to determine how the panel is attached. Then carefully, without making great efforts, remove it. Disassembly should be done without brute force as all fasteners are made of plastic.De-energize the heater before starting repairs.Checking the power cord and switch... From this it is necessary to begin work on restoring the operability of the oil heater. The fact is that during long-term operation at the connection points, the wires usually burn out, and the contact is broken. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the wire and strip it, and at the same time the connection point. After that, reassemble everything. Contact re-established. We check with a tester whether this is really so. At the same time, you need to check the power cord for a wire break. Rarely, but such a malfunction occurs. This is done simply using the same tester.Next stage - inspection of all contact connections in the control unit. It is necessary to very carefully inspect each contact for burning, oxidation and loosening of the fastening. A screwdriver, a fine-grained abrasive cloth, and a cotton swab moistened with alcohol will be sufficient for the repair. It is possible that somewhere you will need a soldering iron to solder the wiring that has come off.It may happen that arose malfunction in the thermal relay, or temperature regulator. In this case, you need to carefully remove and disassemble it. After disassembly, the bimetallic plate, which is inside, is removed and replaced with a new one.The thing is that there can be no more malfunctions there. After replacing the plate, the relay will restore its potential.Repair of thermal fuses will consist in checking their performance and replacing them, if necessary, with serviceable ones. Checking is a simple dialing test by a tester. There may be several thermal fuses, or they are also called thermostats. We check each one.Left check the condition of heating elements... To do this, it is enough to measure their resistance with a tester. It should be less than 1 kΩ. One connection is used to check for an open circuit. Thus, if the tester shows a lot of resistance or shows nothing at all, then it's time to change the heating element. Image - Scarlet oil heater DIY repair

This completes the check of the electrical part of the heater. Moving on to mechanical failures.

Of these, only one is relevant - oil leak... In this case, the heater will have to be disassembled to drain the remaining oil inside. If there is damage to the case, it is important to determine exactly where it happened. Then you need to carefully clean the found place with a sandpaper. This is done to determine the repair method. If it turns out that the hole is small, and there are no traces of corrosion around, then one of the repair options would be to screw a self-tapping screw or a suitable screw diameter into the hole. Another option would be to use a special sealant called "cold welding". Before use, it is kneaded in hands to the state of plasticine.

A rolled bead of sealant is placed over the hole and carefully leveled to the surface. After 15-20 minutes, it hardens so much that you can use the heater. It will be somewhat more difficult to eliminate the hole that has formed from the rust. In this case, you will need to sand the entire rusty spot to a "live" metal. Then again you need to carefully inspect and estimate the size of the hole. If it is not very large, then it can be soldered. If the hole is large, then here you need to use welding, that is, apply a patch and scald it. In this case, the repair of the oil heater will be more serious and will require not only a special tool, but also skills.

The heater body is brazed with brass solder or its substitute. Not with tin. Welding is best done with a semiautomatic device. That is, with a wire, not an electrode.

As you can see, repairing oil heaters, and even with your own hands, is within the power of anyone who is familiar with the basics of electrical engineering and plumbing. Therefore, before throwing away the heater, you need to carefully inspect it. If the breakdown is minor, it will be much cheaper to repair than buying a new one..

We repair the oil cooler. Scarlett SC-1160. Defect, does not turn on. The first thing we do is check the radiator for oil leaks. Because if the seal was broken, oil could leak from the radiator. And lead to the failure of the heating element. In our case, the oil is in place, the tightness is not broken. Next, we list the main breakdowns of such heaters: damage to the supply wire, breakdown of a thermal sensor or malfunction of a thermostat. To open the case, we need a Phillips screwdriver and a multimeter to check the details of the device.So. Unscrew the top screw. In the pictures, it is indicated by a red circle.Carefully remove the cover so as not to break anything. And what do we see?1.Terminal block for connecting the mains wire2.Tena terminal block and thermal fuseThe first thing we do is check the power cord in Figure 5. for the presence of a cliff.Next, we check the thermal fuse and the thermostat. In the normal position, the multimert will show zero resistance. If the multimeter shows infinity or some kind of resistance. this means that the item is defective. It should be replaced. In fig.6, number 1 denotes a thermostat, and number 2 denotes a thermal fuse, a casing is put on it so that it does not close to the body.

Checking the thermal fuse. It stands in the primary power supply circuit of the heater, and breaks the circuit if the device warms up above the permissible temperature, that is, 130 degrees. In our case, everything is fine with him. And the device shows 0 ohm. or in other words short circuit (short circuit) Fig. 7. if your device showed infinity. This means that this part should be replaced.Next, we check the thermostat. Its work consists in breaking the power supply circuit of the heating element when a certain temperature of the radiator (125 degrees) is reached, and after cooling down by 5 degrees, it closes the circuit again. Thus, the thermostat maintains a constant temperature of the radiator, preventing the heating element from overheating. Checking.And we see that checking the thermostat shows an infinity sign. This means that the thermostat is open circuit. So we are changing it. You can buy such a thermostat in any radio shop. The main thing is not to forget that the thermostat must be at 125 degrees.Oil-fired electric heaters have simple design, therefore, usually during their operation, there are no special difficulties.In most cases, they fail, having worked more than one warranty period.However, even the simplicity of the design sometimes cannot save the oil heater from breakdown, which usually happens at the very inappropriate moment.Difficulties in troubleshooting can only be caused by oil leak, the appearance of which is easy to detect upon visual inspection of the device. Oil leaks appearing on the heater body indicate that the device must be turned off urgently, and then take care of purchasing a new heating device.Some craftsmen are able to bring the oil heater back to life even after such a malfunction occurs, but this work quite difficultwhich takes a lot of time. Such repairs are extremely rare.To repair other damage, usually contact a specialisthowever, with basic knowledge of electrical engineering, it is quite possible to solve the problem on your own.Experts believe that the correct fault definition makes the repair of the device halfway done. Therefore, the first stage in the repair of an oil heater is always the diagnosis of the device. In order to find a device malfunction, you need to know how it works, what parts are included in its design. Image - Scarlet oil heater DIY repair

In appearance, an oil heater most often resembles regular battery heating, however, this device is sealed and its interior is filled with oil.

At the bottom of the container heating element inserted... A thermal fuse is located near the heating element, which serves to turn off the heater when the temperature of its body rises excessively.

Thermal relay usually located in the upper part of the body, not in contact with it. A switch is placed close to the relay. If it is present, there is no need to remove the plug from the socket to turn off the heater.

The simplest oil heater circuit looks like that:

When the circuit breaker is closed, after turning on the plug of the electrical appliance, the heating element immersed in oil begins to heat up. The start of the device is signaled by a light.

An adjustable thermostat determines the maximum temperature after which The heating element will turn off... It will switch back to heating mode after the device cools down to the set temperature.

Thermostat adjustment occurs with a bimetallic plate inside it. The position sensor is designed to break the electrical circuit when the heater rolls over.

For better control the operation of the device is equipped with two heating elements. In this case, two switches are installed on the body.With their help, the heating power is regulated. During adjustment, one of the heating elements can be switched off.

The schematic diagram of an oil heater with a fan practically differs little from a conventional heating device. Its main difference is that in the presence of a fan, the heating elements impossible to turn onif the fan does not work for some reason. Such a heater scheme excludes damage to heating elements from overheating.

If a heater was working properly yesterday, today stops heating, then there is no need to immediately run to the workshop, or to the store for a new heating device.

Many malfunctions are quite possible fix it yourselfhaving basic skills in electrical appliance repair.

An exception may be faulty heating element, most often tightly sealed in the heater body. It is quite possible to remove it, but it will no longer be possible to install it in place. Even if the heater is equipped with a removable heating element, it will be difficult to achieve the tightness of the device when replacing it.

Usually, malfunctions that occur when a heater breaks down appear in more accessible places. The most vulnerable point the device is a cord, so its integrity should be checked first. If the design of the plug allows it to be disassembled, then you need to check the junction of the cord veins with the pins of the plug.

If the plug is working properly the next step should be to check the condition of the cord itself, as well as the place of its connection with the heater's power supply. For this, the decorative cover of the device panel is removed and the tester checks the integrity of the cord. If it is damaged, the cable is replaced with a new one.

If the cable turns out to be working, then the malfunction may be hidden in the state of the contacts of the power supply. Contacts can be caked and loosened.

In this case, the contacts are cleaned of carbon deposits. sandpaper, and loose contacts are gently tightened.

The thermostat is located in the same place. If darkening is visible on its contacts, then they also need to be cleaned. The thermostat may be defective bimetallic plates... If damage is found, the thermostat is carefully disassembled, and the plates are replaced with new ones.

If the oil cooler belongs to the category energy saving, then in its design there is a thermostat that enables the device to be turned on and off at the given parameters.

Excessive heat heater, or low temperature, it must also be inspected. If a malfunction is detected, this part is changed to a new thermostat with similar parameters.

If there is a fan in the design of an oil heater, it is also need to check... In this case, not only the contacts of the device are checked, but also the integrity of the winding of its motor. It is possible that it may need to be replaced.

After completing the above checks and eliminating the detected faults, the heater is assembled and then turned on. If the heating device still doesn't work, you will have to seek the advice of a specialist.

Most likelythat he will advise you to buy a new heater. Some repairs can be so expensive that it's easier to head to the store.

You will find the device and the electrical diagram of the oil cooler in the video:

Instructions for the repair (replacement of heating elements) of an oil heater with your own hands, look at the video:

If the fan heater does not turn on when connected to the mains and pressing the button, there may be several reasons for the malfunction. The first thing to do is to check the electrical cord, it may have been interrupted somewhere during summer storage. Did not help? We take a screwdriver and a multimeter, after which we proceed to self-repair the fan heater.The most likely cause of the malfunction is the fuse box, one of which has tripped due to overheating.

Using the Scarlett household heater as an example SC158 we will consider in the form of step-by-step instructions how to fix a fan heater with our own hands:

First, unscrew the screws on the back cover, there are usually 6 of them, as shown in the photo.
Next, we ring the main elements of the circuit with a multimeter: thermal fuses, a thermostat, a thermal switch. The first fuse can be seen immediately without removing the blades. To find the second one, which is on the engine, you will have to remove the fan. You call the circuit with a multimeter on your own and if the reason is really this type of breakdown, you buy the exact same element in the store and replace it (the cost is not more than 30 rubles).

We draw your attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to replace the fuses with thin wires (bugs). With this method of repairing a fan heater with your own hands, you will make a fire hazardous heater that will not work when overheated!

Repair instruction video:

The second popular failure of a fan heater is blowing, but not heating the air. In this case, the cause of the malfunction is most likely a heating element - a spiral or a ceramic heating element. Everything is simple here - you check the resistance in the circuit with a multimeter and if an open circuit occurs somewhere, you need to replace the heating element with a new one. Sometimes it happens that the heater stops heating because one of the sections of the spiral is damaged. In this case, you can try to repair the fan heater yourself by connecting the nichrome spiral.

It is also not a rare case when the same fuse is the cause of a breakdown. If the fan heater does not heat up, check the fuses using the technology provided above.

In addition, the bimetallic thermostat often fails (shown in the photo with a red arrow). For repair, you just need to clean its contacts yourself to a metallic color and warm it up yourself with a soldering iron. The thermostat should behave as follows: when heated, the contacts must open the circuit, when cooled down, close again. If the device does not work, try to manually close the temperature controller and connect the heater to the mains. If it is a worker, the spiral should be heated.

If the fan heater works, but the fan does not turn, the most likely cause of the malfunction is the motor stopped working. What to do in this case? Ring the part with a multimeter and check the insides. Perhaps the bearings are simply worn out and need to be replaced. We talked about how to use a multimeter in the corresponding article!

Another breakdown option is heavy dust pollution, as a result of which the fan does not spin or often turns off. Try to repair the motor yourself by wiping it with a rag and dripping a little machine oil between the moving and stationary parts. Did not help? We replace the broken electric motor with a new one with the same characteristics.

Well, and the last malfunction - the fan heater does not heat the air well. In this case, the cause of the breakdown is contamination of the spare parts. Most likely, the heating element is covered in dust, as a result of which heating occurs weakly, for example, at the second speed, as at the first. For such an easy repair, turn off the power and use a dry rag or vacuum cleaner to walk over all the elements of the circuit, the main thing is not to damage anything. Did you do it, but it doesn't help? Check the electrical plug, it may be at fault. Turn on the heater for a few minutes, then remove the plug from the socket and feel the electrodes. If one of them is noticeably warmer than the second, the electrical plug is broken, as a result of which the household heater produces little heat.

That's all the tips for repairing a fan heater with your own hands! When choosing a heater on your own, we recommend giving preference to models with a ceramic heating element, rather than a spiral. You can read more tips on choosing fan heaters for your home in the corresponding article!

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