Do-it-yourself special keys for car repair

In detail: special keys for car repair with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In this topic, drawings of pullers and devices for car repairs, as well as drawings of special tools will be given.

The following drawings are currently available:

Drawing of the front suspension strut rod nut puller.

Drawing of a universal screw puller for steering rods.

Drawing of the front and rear suspension spring ties.

Drawing of a puller for pressing out the rear suspension shock absorber silent block.

Drawing of a puller for pressing in the silent block of the rear suspension shock absorber.

Front and rear wheel bearing puller drawing.

Drives for knocking out wheel bearing

Photo of drifts for knocking out a wheel bearing

Drives for pressing in wheel bearing

Photo of mandrels for pressing in the front and rear wheel bearing VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099, VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115. The photo also shows rings from old wheel bearings, they also help with pressing.

Drawing of a puller for replacing the rubber-metal hinges of the rear beam.

Replacing the rubber-metal hinges of the rear beam

Drawing of a puller for replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension arm.

Puller for replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension arm

A device for compressing brake cylinders.

The brake cylinder compressor is made from old brake pads. Everything seems to be visible in the photo.

Photo of a device for compressing brake cylinders.

Drawing of the brake cylinder compression device

Car repair is a serious and responsible job that requires certain knowledge and skills. There are operations that a beginner can handle as well. But many types of repairs require serious experience and some preparation.

Video (click to play).

However, any car repair specialist was once a beginner - each of us once did even the most familiar work for the first time.

Therefore, if you are determined to master the ability to repair a car with your own hands, do not be afraid to start. Learn, be attentive, pay attention to every little thing, and after a while you will acquire all the necessary skills.

Car repair tools

You will also need a special tool for auto repair - as you understand, it is impossible to do without it.

To do many work with your own hands, you will need various tools and materials - with their help, fixing of units, assembly and disassembly, operations to eliminate defects, etc. will be carried out.

Let's figure out what special tools and accessories you may need during do-it-yourself car repairs.

Essential Car Repair Tools

To begin with, consider the standard set of tools that you will need not only to have in the garage, but also to carry with you. Situations happen different - it happens that a breakdown forces you to work with your hands right on the spot, making it impossible to reach the garage. For this purpose, you must have the following special set with you:

Screwdrivers - any work with the machine rarely does without them. You will need two flavors:
with a slot;
with a cruciform tip.

Since you may need different sizes, it is best to carry a universal screwdriver with different types of bits.

Multifunctional screwdriver with attachments

Adjustable wrench - it may be needed when the force of the pliers is not enough to unscrew a stubborn bolt;

Adjustable ratchet wrench

Jack - will be needed in order to raise the car or hold it, for example, when changing a wheel. There are 3 popular jack types:
screw;
rack and pinion;
pneumatic.

The screw jack is considered to be the most convenient - it is compact and efficient.

Mechanical screw jack

Socket wrenches for unscrewing the heads. They can have 6-sided and 12-sided heads.
A set of spanner wrenches. There should be as much as possible. The car has a huge number of different nuts, so such a set will be extremely necessary for you.
Several hammers of different sizes. A light hammer is used to knock out bolts, nuts and studs. The heaviest one is needed for wheel replacement operations, door repairs and other heavy work.
Pliers.
Nippers.
Rope for towing cars. It must be worn, reliable, non-slip and not damaged.

Machine repair tools

In addition to the standard set of tools, it is advisable for you to carry with you special devices and materials that you may need to work with your own hands at the breakdown site:

spare parts - it is advisable to have small spare parts with you that may be needed during the repair. These can be bolts, nuts, gaskets, hoses, and the like;
spare parts and components: belts, fuel pump, fuses and other little things that can let you down on the way;
spare tire - if you have a punctured wheel, only the spare wheel will save you;
cigarette lighter - it will come in handy if there is a need to charge the battery from another car;
woolen gloves - useful so as not to injure your hands during hard work;
clean dry rags and rags - they are used to wipe hands or car parts from dirt, dust and oil.

It makes sense that you don't need to carry an entire workshop with you. However, if you want to do all car repairs with your own hands, if possible, your garage should be part-time and a car repair shop.

There should be all the tools for auto repair and special equipment for a more serious event than troubleshooting on the spot.

You need to ensure that your garage has:

high-quality lighting - as strange as it may sound, the light source plays a huge role in car care. Your eyes shouldn't get tired of bright light. At the same time, it is difficult to overestimate the importance of a full review of any work areas;
welding machine - it is likely that you will have to perform operations for welding metal elements. Therefore, if possible, it is worth getting a welding machine;

Welding machine

Please note that its operation will require certain skills from you. Practice well before starting work.

straightening spotter with all complete set. It is used to straighten parts of the car body and for spot welding;
sandblasting machine. Used for cleaning and degreasing various surfaces. Indispensable in the fight against emerging foci of corrosion, as well as when repainting car units;
a set of tools for non-welding straightening: hammers, blades, mandrels, etc .;
vice;
Sander. It can also be a regular grinder that can grind and cut;

Sander

electric drill;
milling machine;
pneumatic spray gun for surface painting;
a set of hand-held locksmith tools: chisels, punches, barbs, etc .;
measuring instruments: calipers, tape measures, etc.

Measuring tape

It is quite logical that this list can be continued indefinitely - its length depends on your knowledge, skills, financial capabilities and willingness to delve into the intricacies of the process.

It is likely that you will undertake only simple work with your own hands, and for more serious service - contact a car service station.

Any car repair specialist uses tools that can hardly be called standard, but they make your life a lot easier. Let's consider some of them:

Do-it-yourself car repair requires a serious base of tools, fixtures and materials. Without the presence of the obligatory standard tools, car repairs will simply be impossible.

Therefore, if you are planning to repair your car yourself, it will be very helpful to know what tools and fixtures are used for different operations. The success of the work, as well as the time spent, depends on how fully and competently your workshop is staffed.

Less and less free space remains under the hood of a modern car. The manufacturer strives to utilize every square centimeter of space around the engine. For a car mechanic, these are additional problems, since it becomes more and more difficult to get to dismantle a part, more and more hard-to-reach places become.

Here, I have compiled a very interesting list of 19 special professional tools and devices that can help solve this problem.
Of course, some tool may seem very exotic, and little used in work, but every auto repairman who is more or less involved in professional car repair would want to have some positions in his garage.

LED lamp made in the format of a "police baton" with magnetic mounts.
It is very convenient to use when working under the bottom of a car or under the hood. Strong magnets will hold the flashlight in place without any problems, and the tube, which rotates along its axis by 200 degrees, can be turned exactly where you need bright light. It can work both from the on-board network and from its own battery.

The ability to switch brightness more / less and its own rechargeable battery allow the lamp to work autonomously for up to 8 hours. And as a bonus, it's a great option for lighting up your garage when the power goes out.

Working under the hood in the engine compartment, sometimes you have to face a problem, unscrew and tighten the bolt, especially if it is in a hard-to-reach place and tightens with a decent torque.
And here such a special wrench working in ratchet mode can come in handy.

A very interesting hand-held pneumatic tool, one might say percussion. Something reminded me of sandblasting, only everything is much simpler.
By connecting it to the compressor, you can effortlessly fight off rust, welding scale or old paint.

The principle of operation is simple - steel needles (options from 12 to 19 needles are possible) at a speed of 4000-4600 beats per minute (depending on the model) will knock out corrosive places to pure iron. It is especially convenient when used in hard-to-reach places, where it is impossible to reach with a corset.

Personal protective equipment should be used when working with this tool: heavy gloves, goggles and earmuffs.

Using this special tool (I call it a nut), you can break any nut if it is impossible to unscrew it.
Surely any of you came across rusted nuts, especially when the chassis bulkhead, tearing off the splines and swearing.
Now everything is simple: I put on the ring, brought the hardened "tooth" to the nut and twist it until it just breaks the nut. A big plus of such a tool is that the thread on the bolt or hairpin is not damaged, all that remains is to throw off the broken nut and drive a new one along the thread with oil.

There are probably a lot of pliers in your arsenal of tools, but there are definitely no such pliers!
Have you noticed that when you try to grab a small part in an uncomfortable place with ordinary pliers, your hand interferes with seeing the process, blocking it?
The Kiwi pliers, so named for their resemblance to this New Zealand bird, will solve this problem - it will be more convenient to work.

Having such a set, where each head has its own cord, you get additional opportunities when working in hard-to-reach places of the car. These heads have a much shorter body than conventional heads when used with the kit's standard gimbal.
Minus one, this set is not cheap.

When disassembling a car for repair, it is often necessary to disconnect various electrical connectors.
In the latest car models, they are often combined with plastic fasteners and, when detached, without a special tool, they can be easily damaged.
With this set of hooks, almost any connector can be conveniently disconnected without breaking it.

If you try to pull out the plug with ordinary pliers, you can easily damage the rubber cap or the wire itself. So they came up with such an interesting gadget - special pliers for removing high-voltage wires from the plug terminal.

There are times when, when performing repair work, you need to jack up two places at once.
This problem can be solved by using a jack attachment with two independent (adjustable) seats. This device is installed instead of the standard saddle. You can lengthen the arm to the desired size, and also rotate the cross members around the center axis of the jack.

Tightening the bolts without a special torque wrench, without taking into account the recommended tightening torques, can cause serious damage to the vehicle.
As a rule, a professional auto repairman who respects his client in the workshop has several different torque wrenches for different tasks. Now, this amount can be replaced by purchasing one electronic digital adapter and using it with a ratchet wrench or other wrench with a half-inch adapter. The digital display will show the tightening torque at the moment and will inform you with a sound signal when the desired torque has been reached.

How much time can be spent looking for a newly unscrewed part: "I just put it somewhere here ..." a bolt, a nut and similar eternally lost little things.
A very interesting solution is a magnetic badge on a belt. Just stick the unscrewed screw (nut) to it and you don't have to search when the part is needed again.

Here are six more interesting mini sets of special tools for working in hard-to-reach places during disassembly and assembly. Here, in principle, everything is clear where and how they can be used.

A set of four short screwdrivers.
A set of ratchets and bits with various curly tips: sprockets, hexagons, squares.
Flexible extension bar with magnetic tip, into which you can insert a variety of bits or heads.
Miniature rotating universal joint with ¼ ”adapter.
A set of three special ratchets.
A set of ratchet screwdrivers capable of working at 90 degrees and attachments for it.

Interesting adaptation, I don't even know what to call it.
The platform is mounted directly on the wheel, has several adjustments, both in width and in height. Very handy when you are repairing a tall jeep or minibus. Of course, you can use, for example, a box to stand higher, but standing on the box is somewhat inconvenient and you can easily, at the most unnecessary moment, drive away from the wheel, and all that remains for you is to brake with your face against the hood ... probably everyone is familiar?

Mirror with telescopic handle and two magnets included (one swivel).
Every auto repairman should have such a set.
Imagine a situation that when you unscrew the nut, you did not hold it, and it fell somewhere on the engine or gearbox. How to find and get it?
And here, a mirror and a magnet will come to your aid.

Looking at this set of special keys, it is immediately clear what it is for.
Using an extension and ratchet from the standard socket set, you can tighten almost any “awkward” nut in the engine compartment. Ideal for dismantling the steering gear or brake system.

This special torque wrench prevents you from accidentally stripping threads in modern aluminum engines. If you did not dare to purchase an electronic device for controlling the tightening torque, about which it was a little higher, then this very inexpensive key will be quite accurate and what the doctor ordered.
Two models of this tool (almost complete coverage of all values) will undoubtedly be a good purchase for your garage.

Undoubtedly, everyone faced this "nightmare" - when unscrewing a rusted old bolt, its cap breaks off (breaks off) and that's it ...
Dancing with a tambourine begins, drilling, thread restoration, etc.

With this set, in the photo below, you solve the whole problem at once in a complex. It has everything you need to accurately drill and remove what is left of a bolt with a diameter of 5 mm to 16 mm from the body.

If you still use an analog tester to check electrical circuits, then there is a very high probability that you will spoil the car's on-board computer.
The digital tester is safe as it does not use a ground cable. You simply stick it into the socket to test, or pierce the insulation of the wire (the stainless steel tip is sharp enough), and with your other hand touch any metal part of the car to complete the circuit.
The check works from 3 to 24 Volts DC. It is possible to set a sound signal or turn on the LED to signal the presence of voltage.

A very useful tool for removing antifreeze hoses. After several years of operation, the antifreeze hoses in the places where they are tightened with clamps are firmly attached to the pipe. If you don’t want to cut the hose during dismantling and save it for later installation, then this special hook tool is what you need.
Simply insert the pointed end under the hose and pull it around the pipe.
This cool tool can save you a lot of money.

You can buy these and other sets on the largest portal amazon.com, you just need to look, some keys can be both in the metric system and in inches.
It is not yet so easy to acquire such a tool in Russia, except perhaps to search in online stores.

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Make a car key with a chip and learn a lot of new and interesting things. What is an immobilizer, when and why it was invented, we will tell you in our article.

How can you make yourself when you lose or replace the key, the chip built into it so that the car starts up when the key is turned in the ignition lock.

If you do not succeed yourself, or if this is a difficult process for you, then specialized services will always help you, which will provide you with a full range of services for restoring or replacing the chip key.

The immobilizer significantly increases the security of the car, since it is used to limit access to the control unit.To gain access, a special key equipped with a password is used.It contains a micro-chip (transponder) that sends a coded individual signal.Starting the engine is excluded because the security system blocks the function of the control electronic unit at the microprogram level.Thanks to this, it is impossible to start the car not only using a third-party key, but also by various manipulations with the wiring.Car manufacturers equip modern car modifications with a full-fledged security system, which includes an immobilizer and chip keys.Keys can be service, flip, and smart.If a standard immobilizer is installed in the car, two keys are supplied to it.Often, car owners lose one of them, so they have a question about how to turn off the immobilizer and where to make a spare chip key.Duplication of the chip key is often required when buying a used car, as they are often sold with one key.This is quite inconvenient, because if the only key is lost, you will need to use special programs to bypass the immobilizer.In such cases, it is better to use the key reprogramming procedure in order to eliminate troubles in the future.Also, reprogramming and duplication of the chip key may be required in the event of insurance claims, in case of breakdown and for other reasons.

When creating new chip keys, it is necessary not only to create a mechanically exact copy, but to copy all the necessary information that is in the original so that it can be recognized immobilizer unit... The codes contained in the key are individual for each vehicle.In some cases, in order to read the code, the firmware with which the immobilizer is equipped is initially read.A duplicate is created based on the data.To read the firmware, specialized hardware is used.Thanks to it, it is possible to disable the immobilizer and reprogram the chip keys.Our adapter "CAN MODULE" allows:To get the code;
Program the chip and buttons;
Bind the key.It is possible to program chip keys from any car models, including those with a complex electronic system. The first generation of car keys has a minimal anti-theft system based only on the secrecy of the lock mechanism, which was easily broken by the hijackers. This is almost all cars up to 1995, plus the domestic auto industry. These keys did not have any electronic anti-theft components. After 1995, Western insurance companies made additional demands on auto manufacturers to introduce additional electronic anti-theft systems due to the increasing number of thefts.Quite a complicated procedure, which consists in the fact that initially it is necessary to dismantle the ignition lock, and as you understand, the manufacturers have prudently made this process difficult in order to exclude the removal of the lock with unauthorized access. And in order to remove the ignition lock, you must first turn it with your own key (which, unfortunately, is not already there). Only a few masters have this specialization. Even with the lock removed, it is often difficult to pull out the core itself. If the key is stolen, it is possible to recode all the locks to a new secret, so that it would be impossible to open the locks with the old key. This will require the dismantling of all locks. And it is possible to programmatically remove the key from the immobilizer memory, so that either mechanically or electronically, the missing key is unusable. It is a good idea to carry out this procedure when buying a car from unauthorized persons or especially confiscated cars. The programming procedure may differ, depending on whether the key is lost irretrievably or deliberately stolen (or lost in the yard, in the immediate vicinity of the frequent location of the car). It is imperative to inform about this in advance, since the volume and the procedure of work are radically changing. You need to determine for yourself what key you need:1) Key without electronics which you can only open the door and turn the ignition lock. The car will not start with such a key. The cheapest option, in case the car is locked with the key inside, when the alarm is triggered. Such a key will greatly help save time and money on emergency opening.2) Key with a chip, without central locking buttons (CL)
- is a standard key, with a plastic handle, inside of which there will be a chip programmed into your car. With this key you can start the car. If you have only one key available, you need at least such an additional one. In the presence of an additional alarm, in which there are already central control panels, such a key is quite enough.3) Key with chip and central lock remote control
This is a full-fledged original key that has advantages over additional signaling. Signals of the original key, remote control, for opening-closing, are not intercepted by autograbers - this is the main advantage of the original key! Since this article contains information on security measures, it will not be superfluous to say that attackers use grabers to intercept the sent signaling pulse with a fixed code (first generation signaling), and then, with one press of a button, reproduce this signal, which they open auto.4) Chip for autorun.
Most of the new alarms are equipped with this function so that you can warm up the car remotely without leaving your home. And when the driver comes to the car, it is already warmed up (not only the engine, but also the interior, which is quite pleasant in winter).
In the case of foreign cars with a chip key, this function requires one key to be in the car, which in itself already reduces some security. A negative way out of this situation is to tie the key to the immobilizer antenna, then the meaning of this anti-theft system is not just removed, but even helps the hijackers.
The ideal solution is to make a chip for autostart and hide it in the immobilizer crawler. Then there is no need to leave the whole key in the car. And the lineman himself with a chip can be hidden anywhere, even in the trunk. In this case, the signal from this chip will be read only when the engine is started from the alarm panel, that is, if you turn the ignition with a key without a chip, the lineman will not work, and the meaning of the entire anti-theft system is preserved.5) Key card
Mainly used in Renault models. If such a key is repeatedly dropped or bent (for example, in a pocket or in a purse) or after washing such a key, some of its elements may fail, some of them can be successfully replaced without additional programming procedures for the same card. Repair of the key card for Renault is not performed at service stations and at dealers, but it is proposed to immediately purchase and program a new key (the price for such a "service" is several thousand). In some cases, when it is impossible to reanimate the damaged key, you need to program a new key card (on the Reanault Megane for example). But as already mentioned, take your time, contact a specialized center for auto keys first.
For these machines, there is also the option of making one chip for autostart without leaving a card6) Smart keys. (Smart key)
New generation of cars equipped with Smart system (Smart key)
The point is that when the key is in the car, there is no need to additionally insert the blade into the keyhole or into the slot, since the car already detects the presence of an authorized key-fob and it is enough to press the "StartStop" button to start the engine. (Or, at the point of entry into the keyhole, a rotary plug is installed, which can be turned by hand, and there is no need to remove and insert the key into the keyhole).
This is the most expensive category of keys and in some cases, if you need a budget option for recovery, or copying, you can make a key with a blade and a chip inside.
Disadvantages of such a key:
-Not available CH functions
-To start the car, you need to insert the key into the ignition lock.
The advantages of such a key:
-The car starts and drives! :))) (and later, you can slowly order a smart key. Most of these keys are not available either from dealers (wait 15-30 days), or in special workshops for auto keys (delivery time 2-3 days) If you lose the last key, do not rush to break the locks, doors or windows, this may not bring the expected positive result, but, on the contrary, make it difficult to later open the car with a professional tool. You need to call a car emergency opening technician, and within 5-30 minutes, you will be able to open the car without damage. - Of course, if you come across a good master with experience and specialized tools. As practice shows, the price of work is often an indicator of the level of work. For a high-quality autopsy, you need an expensive instrument. This is followed by key recovery.

Read also: DIY car amplifier repair

UPD... The VAG CAN Commander 5.5 + Pin reader 3.9 cord is not needed. A regular KKL 409 is good for getting a tidy pin.I managed to lose a set of keys last fall. And the key for blocking the gearbox remained, and the ignition key with the signaling key fob "went away" somewhere.
Searches in probable and unlikely places did not give any results, it was decided to investigate the issue of making a duplicate.
On the forum of the Skoda Club and Skoda Peter, no one suggested anything sensible, except how to contact the dealer. The dealer offered me to part with 10k rubles. A friend on spb_auto.zhzh.kom promised to help through zakomogo, but the acquaintance refused and also offered to contact the dealer.
A little time passed, I practically began to save money for a new key, as the thought occurred to me, is it not strange that for the golf4 platform, which has been produced since 1996, until now, various unofficial masters do not make keys? Doubts were confirmed when I, either on a drive or at a Skoda club, found a person from MSC who was ready to sell me a key with a chip and a new chip binding to the tidy for 2200 and was surprised that there could be some difficulties with this.It was decided to turn to Google and research the market in St. Petersburg with my own hand. If you want something to be done well, do it yourself. As it turned out, a lot of offices do what I need at a price of 4.5 to 2.5 rubles without cutting.Googling the Internet and drive2 for the cost of consumables also bore fruit - it turns out that the key and the immo flask can be ordered for a penny from China, well, or bought from dealers for reasonable money.Which was done, right here. The usual empty key (in my configuration, both keys are non-folding and without buttons), and an immo flask. The guys from eobd scanned the type of flask with a tricky device with an LCD screen and a mass of buttons from the surviving key, it turned out to be Crypto ID 48. It remains to cut the sting of a new key and register a new flask in the tidy.Slicing in St. Petersburg has risen in price. In ordinary stalls for the manufacture of duplicate keys, when the words "car key" are used, the carvers have dollars in their eyes and the price tag jumps to 700-1000 rubles. As a result, I cut it at the same guys, in eobd for 400.
Next is the binding. The VAG-COM lanyard did not end there. It took another one, of a different type.On the Skoda-Peter forum, I received a VAG CAN Commander 5.5 + Pin reader 3.9 cord for temporary use (this is not the same as a regular VAG COM). I didn’t want to work under Win7, I had to get a laptop with XP, VAG CAN Commander also refused to work under it, but I got a Pin Reader, with which I successfully downloaded the tidy dump and found out some kind of PIN. I was not sure that this was the tidy code and I continued to search for the drive. A knowledgeable user VampireLo read my dump and confirmed that the pin is the tidy code.
Next, it remains to disconnect the VAG CAN cable and this time using the usual VAG-COM cord (I have 11.11.3) of this report to register an additional key.Peculiarities of working with PIN reader - it does not know Skoda. He needs to indicate Golf4 2002 release, VDO tidy. You can just read the dump and open it with the ImmoRead program (I can send it), which can extract the tidy code from the dump.At first it seemed that the immobilizer radio module had a long range, and if the first key was in the passenger compartment, then the car could be started even with an empty "thread", but this turned out to be not the case. Not that being in the cabin, but even pressing it to the ignition switch did not give anything at all. The car would start and stall.In total, I received a key worth not 10 or 4.5 or even 2.5 tr. And for 1250r!
I will order another third one with a flask, just in case, perhaps a throw-out one, already from China or from ebay.For car maintenance and performing the most common repair work, it is enough to have a set of universal tools, the basis of which should be a standard set of socket wrenches with replaceable heads. It is desirable that it be as complete as possible. Missing tools can be purchased separately (see below).Special tools (specialized wrenches, pullers, measuring tools, and other accessories) are only required for some repair work and are therefore not often used. You can purchase them as needed.At the same time, it is desirable to have a hydrometer, a multimeter, a vernier caliper (the latter two can be useful not only when repairing a car, but also in everyday life). It should be borne in mind that it is difficult and sometimes impossible to perform a number of operations without a special tool.Some types of work are performed using personal protective equipment (for more details, see "Safety measures when servicing and repairing a car"). Therefore, along with a set of tools, prepare gloves or mittens, goggles or a mask (transparent shield that completely covers the face).UNIVERSAL TOOL1. A set of socket wrenches with replaceable heads. V the set must include a set of interchangeable heads with dimensions from 10 before 32 mm, for connecting square 1/2″ (0.5 inches). It is desirable that this set contains the whole range of working profiles of metric size, as well as a special "candle" head at 16 or 21 mm (deep head, inside which a rubber ring is inserted, designed to hold the spark plug when removing it). It is also desirable that there is a second set of heads with dimensions from 6 before 14 mm for a smaller fit (1/4 ″) and an additional set of deep sockets at 8, 10, 12 and 13 mm, for loosening nuts from long studs. It is very convenient to work if the set includes ratchet wrenches (ratchets). They allow you to quickly unscrew and screw fasteners.To avoid damaging the ratchet, do not use ratchets to loosen and tighten bolts and nuts.Since the car uses TORX bolts, as well as bolts with an internal hexagon, the kit should have a set of appropriate heads and nozzles, as well as nozzles with a working profile for Phillips and slotted screwdrivers.2. Collar with a hinge and a long handle. It is necessary for loosening large diameter threaded connections when significant forces are required (for example, when loosening the front wheel hub nut).3. Set of combinedkeys (carob and caps) with dimensions from 6 before 32 mm. It is desirable that the entire range of metric keys (every 1 mm) be available.Open-end wrenches are not designed to apply significant force to the fasteners, as this will crush the edges of the bolts and nuts. Tighten or loosen the tightening with such wrenches only when it is impossible to do this using socket or ring wrenches.4. A set of spanners. It is useful to supplement the combination wrench set with curved spanners of the most common sizes: 10, 12, 13, 15, 17, 19, 22 and 24 mm.

5. A set of hex keys, size from 2 before 12 mm.6. Torque wrench. Designed for final tightening of threaded connections with a regulated torque.7. A set of Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, varying in size and length. It is very convenient if, when performing repairs, there is a large selection of screwdrivers with blades of various lengths and widths.8. Hammers. It is desirable to have several hammers with a steel head weighing 200, 500, 1000 g, and, in addition, with a plastic or rubber head.9. Nippers (side cutters), pliers, curved-jaw pliers.10. Awl.I. Soft metal drifts (brass, copper, aluminum rods) for knocking out axles, shafts.12. A set of drifts and barbs made of steel for knocking out pins, cotter pins and etc.13. Chisel. Better to get two or three chisels with different blade widths. It is desirable to have a long chisel for working in hard-to-reach places.14. Hacksaw for metal, a set of files and files.15. Mounting blade. You should have a set of two to three blades of different lengths that can be used as levers.16. Sliding pliers.17. Metal brushes.18. Electric drill with a set of drills for metal (up to 013 mm).19. Locksmith vice. The vise must be securely attached to the workbench. SPECIAL TOOLS AND DEVICES1. Roll-up hydraulic jack. A standard jack is often either inconvenient or simply useless when performing some work.2. Car stands, adjustable in height and with a permissible load of at least 1 t. It is desirable to have four such stands.3. Wheel chocks (at least 2 pcs.).4. Double-sided wrenches for brake system fittings on 8 and 10 mm. Slotted box spanner. The clamping wrench allows unscrewing fittings with worn edges. In order to put the wrench on the brake pipe union, it is necessary to unscrew the tightening bolt. A slotted spanner wrench allows you to perform work more quickly, however, such a wrench must be made of high-quality steel with appropriate heat treatment.5. Special wrench for adjusting the timing belt tension.6. Wrench with 24 mm octagonal head for disassembling the steering gear.7. Flat collar with ratchet mechanism iodine removable tips. Can be used in hard-to-reach places as a flat reversible screwdriver.8. Pullers for removing retaining rings. There are two types of such pullers: for removing circlips from holes and for removing circlips from shafts, axles, rods. These pullers are available with straight and curved jaws.9. Specialist. clamp installation pliers10. Puller for pressing the pins of the ball joints and the ends of the steering rods.11. Oil filter remover.12. Universal three-arm pullers for removing pulleys, hubs, gears.13. Universal puller with narrow jaws for removing couplings, gears, bearing rings. The design of the puller allows you to combine by installing two or three jaws.14. Hub bearing replacement tools. The set includes a bearing inner ring puller and a device for extracting and pressing in the hub bearings.15. Universal cup puller for extracting and pressing in hub bearings and rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) of levers.16. Extractor and mandrel for valve stem seals replacement.17. Set for spring compression and valve expansion gas distribution mechanism.18. Adaptation for grinding valves.19. Special box or socket wrenches 22 mm to unscrew the oxygen concentration sensor.20. Tweezers.21. Screeds for suspension springs.22. Impact screwdriver with a set of attachments.23. Digital multimeter (tester) for checking sensors and electrical circuits.24. Special probe or indicator lamp on 12 V for testing live electrical circuits of the vehicle.25. Pressure gauge for checking tire pressure 26. Pressure gauge to measure the pressure in the fuel rail of the engine.27. Pressure gauge to check the pressure in the engine lubrication system.28. Compressometer to check the pressure in the engine cylinders.29. Bore gauge for measuring the diameter of cylinders.30. Vernier caliper with a depth gauge.31. Micrometers with a measurement range of 0-25, 25-50 and 50-75 mm.32. Round stylus set to check the gap between the spark plug electrodes. The combination wrench can be used for servicing the ignition system with a set of required probes. The key has special slots for bending the side electrode of the candle.33. Set of flat probes for measuring clearances when assessing the technical condition of units.34. Mandrel for centering the clutch disc.35. Technological mandrel forfixing the differential side gear. The mandrel is installed in the hole of the gearbox after dismantling both drives so that the side gears do not fall out of the differential.36. Mandrel for crimping piston rings.37. Hydrometer for measuring the density of a liquid (electrolyte in a battery or antifreeze in an expansion tank).38. Special device with metal brushes for caring for the terminals of wires and terminals of the storage battery.39 – Magnet on a telescopic pointer for removing small metal objects from hard-to-reach places.40. Oil syringe for pouring oil into the gearbox housing.Since the oil in the gearbox is rarely changed and it is poured from above through the hole in the level indicator, instead of an oil syringe, you can use a funnel with a 50-60 cm long plastic tube put on it.41. Fuel transfer hose. Hoses can be used to remove fuel from the tank before removing it.42. Wide and narrow locksmith (metal) rulers to check the planes.43. Tool for disassembling suspension struts. The device consists of two elements: the inner element is designed to hold the shock absorber rod (at 6 and 10 mm), and the outer one - to unscrew its nut (on the 17 and 22 mm).44. Technical hair dryer (thermal gun). It is necessary for heating parts during assembly and disassembly (for example, heat shrink tubes when repairing electrical wiring).

Video (click to play).

45. When performing work, you may also need: clamp, tape measure, household balance, a wide container for draining oil and coolant with a volume of at least 10 liters, a medical syringe or a bulb for taking fluid.