Do-it-yourself internal combustion engine repair machine

In detail: a machine for repairing an internal combustion engine with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

So I decided to make a simple stand for repairing an engine with my own hands: blueprints, photo and description of the device are attached.

The stand was made from a profile pipe 70 x 70 mm (wall thickness 3 mm), it took about 3 meters.

I cut the blanks, so that the structure turned out to be collapsible, I made a bracket from a 4 mm corner and reinforced it with kerchiefs.

I made 3 holes in the profile with a grinder, and inserted bushings from the piston pins from the VAZ engine and welded.

From a piece of metal 6 mm thick I made a bracket for a VAZ engine, for another engine you need to make your own bracket.

Then I welded a piece of pipe to the stand, drilled 4 holes for fixing, at an angle of 90 degrees in the swivel pipe, and one on the stationary one, and 2 holes for the handle.

The stand has successfully passed the tests.

From the profile I welded the legs, primed the structure.

Homemade buggies, ATVs, ATVs

Message alkozlov Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:49 am

Well, I also missed the day at work.

Message Staford Wed Dec 10, 2013 12:48 am

Today I bought the metal, welded the main part. I also made paws. Tomorrow I will take the plate and pipe from the milling machine, then finish it. Later I will weld a basin for oil and dirt in general on the bottom.

"It's impossible!" - said the reason
"This is recklessness!" - noticed experience
"It's useless!" - cut off pride
“Try it. "- the dream whispered.

Message stus Wed Dec 10, 2013 11:16 am

Message Staford 09-03-08 10:25 pm

Dovaril!))) To check with my father, they hung up the VAZ block, it hangs like that, V6 did not hang today - the bolts are on the street in the car, tomorrow I will hang it))))) Now it remains to paint)))

Video (click to play).

"It's impossible!" - said the reason
"This is recklessness!" - noticed experience
"It's useless!" - cut off pride
“Try it. "- the dream whispered.

Message Alexis.79 Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:21 pm

Message ANDROV Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:10 pm

Message Anatoly Galkin Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:56 pm

Staford wrote: Today I bought metal, welded the main part. I also made paws. Tomorrow I will take the plate and pipe from the milling machine, then finish it. Later I will weld a basin for oil and dirt in general on the bottom.

Message Staford »Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:40 am

There is a beam, and talcum rolls along it)) They broke off with the powder, painted it with free blue paint like the compressor)))

Thinking not much strengthened.
As a result, I can say that I am quite satisfied with the stand, it is doing fine, I will think what else I need))))

"It's impossible!" - said the reason
"This is recklessness!" - noticed experience
"It's useless!" - cut off pride
“Try it. "- the dream whispered.

Message KimIV 09-03-07, 08:26

Message MwbG 09-03-07, 08:10

Message Yuri 13-03-07-08: 01:44 Tue Dec 24, 2013 7:44 pm

And I have one. Pivot points - rear hubs of nine VAZ, the center of gravity of the engine approximately on the axis of rotation, easily turns, is fixed every 45 degrees. The engine is installed on standard brackets (although for each type of engine you need to make your own mounting adapters - seen in the photo). The pallet is installed downward when cleaning-washing the engine. Allows you to start-running the assembled engine when installing the bell with a starter.

Surely every car owner has heard about engine repair stands. Below we will consider what it is, what characteristics does such a device have, and, of course, is a home-made option suitable?

Of course, we all want our vehicle to serve us for a long time and at the same time to be in excellent working order all the time. However, this only happens in fairy tales, and in practice even new cars taken from brand showrooms need to be repaired within a few years. And what can we say when the owner does not spare his "iron horse"? In general, many factors contribute to the failure or incorrect operation of one of the main parts of an auto - engine.

So, let's look at the main mistakes that lead to such dire consequences.As already mentioned, incorrect operation of the vehicle is reflected in the most negative way, for example, the use of unsuitable fuel or low-quality technical fluids. Untimely oil and timing belt change, constant overload of the car will also negatively affect. Even disastrous will be the neglect of the engine's need for warming up in the cold season. And what can we say about malfunctions after mechanical impact due to an accident?

It is not so important why the unit failed, in any case, the result is the same - the need for diagnostics and further repair work. In this case, a special stand used for such purposes will be indispensable. A suspended motor is attached to it, and then it becomes much easier to diagnose, transport and repair the unit. In addition, most of these mechanisms are equipped with a special unit, thanks to which the angle of rotation of the engine can be changed in any range, which greatly facilitates the work carried out.

But, like all fixtures, such a stand also needs good care. Therefore, be sure to carry out a visual inspection to search for defects, and if there are any, then the operation should be postponed. Before each use, check whether all fasteners are securely fixed, if not, then make a constriction. And of course, keep it only in a dry and clean place, remove all debris after each use, and lubricate all moving parts regularly. Only with proper operation, the stand, even a homemade one, will serve for a long time, reliably and will pay off if you are going to become a minder.

So, working with such stands is quite simple, but do not forget about safety precautions. At this point, we will pay attention to how to properly operate such devices. It is strictly forbidden to exceed the permissible tonnage, otherwise the structure may not withstand overloads, and the engine will fall... The consequences of such a situation can be very different, and the least is damage to expensive equipment. In addition, pay enough attention to the choice of the surface on which this object will be located, it must be flat and, of course, capable of withstanding significant loads. Image - DIY machine for repairing internal combustion engines

The next criterion is the installation of the load. Before repairing the engine, it is necessary to securely fix it strictly in the center, while acting with extreme caution and accuracy. Remember, even your life can depend on the reliability of the fastening. And, of course, if you purchased such a stand in a store, then you do not need to make any adjustments to its design, trust the professional developers.

We figured out the purpose, care and operation of this device, and, as you can see, it is an indispensable attribute especially for beginners and professional minders. But he has one rather serious drawback - it is high cost, so not everyone will be able to immediately give a tidy sum. And if, in addition, you are not confident in your abilities and then abandon self-repair, then as a result, there is a high probability of being the loser. So let's look at how to design a homemade stand used to repair engines.So, if you are going to make a living with this, and not just maintain only your car, then you should make the stand universal. After all, for example, for the engine of domestic cars VAZ ordinary flange fasteners to the rear are enough, but the engine from Bmw so you can't fix it. Therefore, it is necessary to weld a pair of channels with ten-millimeter holes with a pitch of 50 mm to the rotating plate, and the latter should be located in the area of the motor mountings.But in order for the part to rotate quite easily around its own axis, its center of gravity must be strictly opposite the axis of rotation of the aforementioned plate. Image - DIY machine for repairing internal combustion engines

Thanks to the holes on the channels, it becomes possible to mount motors of various sizes through adapter brackets.

The use of a manual hoist, which moves on beams, makes it possible not to construct a lifting mechanism above the stand, it is enough just to install it on the wheels, of course, they must be quite powerful. So it will be possible to simply roll the defective part to any place, and if this unit is not used, then it is also very easy to remove it to the far corner.

Quite often, repair work also involves flushing the engine, and keep in mind that this unit accumulates an incredible amount of dirt, and, naturally, in order not to deliver it across the garage floor, a pallet should be placed at the bottom of the stand. In this case, a fine mesh should be put on top of it, because the strong pressure of the jet can knock some small part off the engine and it will be much easier to detect it on the mesh than at the bottom of the pallet. In addition, you can put the elements of the disassembled unit on it and rinse them.

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Name: Alexey

Weekend design.

I rented a stand for repairs, but I had to give it away, the owner needed it. Urgently made myself the same. Costs / expenses: 900 rubles for a square tube 60x60, electrodes, a circle for a grinder. I will fasten the wheels after painting. The last picture is the original.

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        Fastened to the gearbox bell mounting holes. So as not to interfere with the flywheel, there are spacer tubes.
        
        Square plate - a piece of channel 12 mm thick, racks for mounting the engine - a square bar 20x20. Hardened bolts from some kind of car, bought in auto parts. The grooves in the slab were first drilled at the ends, the middle was cut out with a grinder (this is faster than milling). To the lower frame, the corner is vert. the stand is attached with 4 bolts, as on the original.
        
        The design is repeatable at home without any major equipment. Welding and grinder
        
        Good day, dear motorists! Are you seriously starting to do it yourself? This is necessary, especially since more than 50% of repair work on the engine is quite realistic and affordable to perform independently.
        
        Today there is no longer a problem in finding and "getting" spare parts, parts or repair kits for one or another engine unit. Tools and equipment for repairing engines in any quantity, of any standard size and quality.There are instructions and manuals for the repair of a particular engine unit of any model on the Web.
        
        And the benefits are obvious. Not only will you save money, but with attention and careful approach to business, you get a 100% guarantee that the operation was performed correctly. After all, do-it-yourself engine repair means: for yourself and with high quality.
        
        Naturally, some technological operations will require special equipment for engine repair. And as long as you are not going to open a service station in your garage, then there is no need to buy it. In every, more or less normal car service, you will find everything you need.
        
        Here we will try to list more fully the tools and equipment for engine repair, which, in principle, should be in the garage of any car owner. That is, a tool for everyday use.
        
        You must learn the first rule of the auto mechanic - do not rush to disassemble the engine until you have carried out its diagnostics. Engine diagnostics methods are different, and they all lead to the identification of certain malfunctions of engine components. In addition to motor testers, there is also popular diagnostics, because not every car is equipped with an "electronic brain".
        
        And, for example, it will tell you about the state of the engine no less interesting than the readings of the motor tester. So, the tools for diagnosing and repairing the engine.
        
        Replaceable socket wrenches... In addition, it is desirable to have working profiles of a metric size in the set. These keys are used for dismantling - installation of all components of the engine and attachments.
        
        Torque wrench - the most necessary device for.
        
        Phillips and slotted screwdrivers... These engine repair tools must come in a variety of lengths and widths. A pair of powerful screwdrivers will not be superfluous.
        
        Long handle articulated crank - it will be needed in order to unscrew the threaded connections without effort.
        
        Complete set of open-end wrenches... Ideally, it is desirable to have two kits. These keys fail faster than the rest of the tool.
        
        Combination and adjustable wrenches... These keys are not professional, but for the level of repair work done in a garage, they are sometimes useful.
        
        Hammers, pliers, platypuses, side cutters, chisels (different in width) - this is a tool for engine repair, and in general auto repair, should always be by default.
        
        Punches and barbs - from aluminum or copper, for knocking out shafts and axles, from steel, for knocking out pins, cotter pins, etc.
        
        Compressometer - to measure the compression of the engine, it is advisable to have it always at hand.
        
        Candle wrench - should be in the garage by default.
        
        Locksmith vice - many types of repair work in the garage will not do without them.
        
        Electric drill It will come in handy for you, for example, in order to make a lung or an engine camshaft. Naturally, with the appropriate honors.
        
        The listed engine repair tool will be enough for you to dismantle or install, a camshaft or crankshaft.
        
        Here the question is somewhat more complicated. In the garage, you cannot concentrate specialized equipment. And there is no particular need for this. Engine boring (honing) is the prerogative of specialists. You shouldn't take away their bread.
        
        The market offers a fairly wide range of specialized equipment for engine repair. These are honing heads and adjustable, readjustable diamond reamers, metalworking machines: turning and drilling.
        
        Equipment for the repair of gasoline and diesel engines allows you to perform such complex operations as: repair of the crankshaft bed, repair of camshaft bearings, repair of connecting rods, change the valve guides and restore the geometry of the valve seats.
        
        Modern technologies on equipment for engine repairs allow achieving repair results in terms of compliance with the geometry of parts and assemblies that meet the requirements of engine manufacturers.
        
        After processing the components with the help of specialized equipment for engine repair, you calmly in the garage, assemble with your home tools for engine repair and, again, on the road.
        
        The most important condition for the use of any tool and equipment for engine repair is compliance with safety measures during operation. Good luck with your car engine repair.
        
        The Motortechnology company is engaged in the supply of equipment and tools for the repair of engine parts (ICE) of cars, both new and used.
        
        The equipment and tools presented by us for engine repair can be used both on engines of domestic cars (VAZ, GAZ, ZIL, MAZ, YaMZ, KAMAZ, etc.) and foreign (BMW, Renault, Mercedes, Hyundai, Volvo, Ford, Volkswagen, etc.).
        
        At present, long-term cooperation with foreign leading companies for the production of special equipment allows us to provide any service to our customers, for example, consultations on solving technical problems of the customer; supply of equipment according to the customer's specifications; training; commissioning works; providing warranty and, most importantly, post-warranty service of machine tools, etc. After all, selling expensive equipment is only half the battle, its constant support is required.
        
        We are engaged in complex equipment for car services and motor repair enterprises throughout Russia and the CIS.
        
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        Hotei
        
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        With the filing of Sasha Nomberon (nomberone469) has melted just such a thing. Engine repair has become quite a convenient and comfortable event. It is done quickly, the material consumption is minimal. Everything, together with the electrodes and bolts, cost me about 1 sput. Highly recommend
        .
        Savage
        
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        I got the hang of what the engine is holding
        
        Hi com
        
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        I got the hang of what the engine is holding
        
        At the "engine repair stand"
        
        Hotei
        
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        On the studs for fastening the generator brackets.
        
        Hi com
        
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        Hotei, so are you talking about “what” it is holding onto, or with the help of what is it fixed on?
        
        Hotei
        
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        I got the hang of what the engine is holding
        
        At the "engine repair stand"
        
        Hotei, so are you talking about “what” it is holding onto, or with the help of what is it fixed on?
        
        You are in a playful mood today
        .
        Werewolf
        
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        Well, this is if you work with engines, but if it's purely for yourself once every five years, even less often, only the place will take
        
        Savage
        
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        Hi com, something, my friend, was drawn to sophistry in the morning
        
        Hi com
        
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        Hotei, Savage,
        once you can.
        Hotei
        
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        This is perhaps a more intelligible answer.
        :
        Werewolf
        
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        The load on those pins is not sour, the fasteners are from the edge, and the whole engine is turned out to the side
        
        Hotei
        
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        The load on those pins is not sour, the fasteners are from the edge, and the whole engine is turned out to the side
        
        That's exactly what I thought. Including your first statement
        
        Well, this is if you work with engines, but if it's purely for yourself once every five years, even less often, only the place will take
        
        Sasha helped me to destroy these delusions. The engine hangs firmly and can be easily tilted in all directions. It turned out to be easier to remove the engine than the unit (box + transfer case). Now there is not a single “difficult” place left in the car. By the way, the stand is collapsible with bolts. So it will take up a little space along the wall.
        
        igor4737
        
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        Cons - a simple user does not need a device, there is no place to simply put the car on the shelves.
        
        Maksik
        
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        In our army, the fastening of the UAZ motors was for the bell pins, the load is more distributed there, and the rotation around the axis is uniform, the generator pins are a pity in your case, God forbid they break
        
        Hotei
        
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        Whoever does not need to, he himself knows about it. But if you decide to do engine repairs yourself in a garage, then you have little choice. Either on the floor on boards (tires, pallets) or on a stand. It is more convenient at the stand.
        
        Mounting for bell pins is provided in universal industrial stands. Originally, I wanted to do this too. But my garage is a bit cramped, and how can I remove the bell at the same time. As for the loads, it is rather an optical and psychological deception. It just seems that the engine is so big and heavy and the studs are so small and weak. By the way, the plate is 1 cm thick. Practice has shown that the solution is quite viable.
        
        Edited by Hotei (08/05/2014 09:19:54)
        
        Good day, dear motorists! Are you seriously starting to repair the engine yourself? This is necessary, especially since more than 50% of repair work on the engine is quite realistic and affordable to perform independently.
        
        Today there is no longer a problem in finding and "getting" spare parts, parts or repair kits for one or another engine unit. Tools and equipment for repairing engines in any quantity, of any standard size and quality. There are instructions and manuals for the repair of a particular engine unit of any model on the Web.
        
        And the benefits are obvious. Not only will you save money, but with attention and careful approach to business, you get a 100% guarantee that the operation was performed correctly. After all, do-it-yourself engine repair means: for yourself and with high quality.
        
        Naturally, some technological operations will require special equipment for engine repair. And as long as you are not going to open a service station in your garage, then there is no need to buy it. In every, more or less normal car service, you will find everything you need.
        
        Here we will try to list more fully the tools and equipment for engine repair, which, in principle, should be in the garage of any car owner. That is, a tool for everyday use.
        
        You must learn the first rule of the auto mechanic - do not rush to disassemble the engine until you have carried out its diagnostics. Engine diagnostics methods are different, and they all lead to the identification of certain malfunctions of engine components. In addition to motor testers, there is also popular diagnostics, because not every car is equipped with an "electronic brain".
        
        And measuring the compression, for example, will tell you about the state of the engine no less interesting than the readings of the motor tester. So, the tools for diagnosing and repairing the engine.
        
        The listed engine repair tool will be enough for you to dismantle or install the cylinder head, cylinder block, camshaft or crankshaft.
        
        Here the question is somewhat more complicated. In the garage, you cannot concentrate specialized equipment. And there is no particular need for this. Engine boring (honing) is the prerogative of specialists. You shouldn't take away their bread.
        
        The market offers a fairly wide range of specialized equipment for engine repair. These are honing heads and adjustable, readjustable diamond reamers, metalworking machines: turning and drilling.
        
        Equipment for the repair of gasoline and diesel engines allows you to perform such complex operations as: repair of the crankshaft bed, repair of camshaft bearings, repair of connecting rods, change the valve guides and restore the geometry of the valve seats.
        
        Modern technologies on equipment for engine repairs allow achieving repair results in terms of compliance with the geometry of parts and assemblies that meet the requirements of engine manufacturers.
        
        After processing the components with the help of specialized equipment for engine repair, you calmly in the garage, assemble with your home tools for engine repair and, again, on the road.
        
        The most important condition for the use of any tool and equipment for engine repair is compliance with safety measures during operation. Good luck with your car engine repair.
        
        Overhaul of an engine is a set of repair work of an internal combustion engine unit aimed at improving the condition of the entire engine as a whole. The word overhaul means that such a repair is serious, requiring good theoretical and practical knowledge. Also, work to improve the condition of the engine is called the internal combustion engine capital.
        
        Overhaul is a complex of repair work related to the replacement of parts that cannot be repaired (mainly pistons, rings, gaskets) and the repair of parts that can be restored to factory condition. After overhaul, the engine restores its power performance indicators (power, compression, noiselessness and smooth operation). Unlike the current or unscheduled (this, for example, the washer fuse blows out or the rear window heating 2107 does not work), overhaul involves the repair of the entire engine, and not individual parts. Therefore, this type of work costs decently, requires experience, time and, preferably, a warm, well-lit garage, if the driver wants to make capital with his own hands.
        
        Since the motor is the heart of the vehicle, it must be repaired in compliance with all rules and regulations, accuracy and skill.
        
        Both gasoline and diesel engines burn out their resource after passing their assigned resource in engine hours (if the engine worked for 1 hour, this is 1 engine hour) or after running in thousands of kilometers.
        
        You have to top up the engine oil, it goes somewhere.
        
        Mechanical damage to the engine (crack in the block).
        
        The compression in the cylinders is below the permissible level.
        
        Continuous smoke from the muffler is blue or gray (dark gray) thick in large quantities.
        
        Knocks are heard (this could be the earbud twisted, etc.).
        
        The car does not pull as before, especially uphill.
        
        When checking the candles, they are constantly dirty, with carbon deposits, in oil.
        
        Fuel consumption has become more than it was.
        
        A lot of gases get into the crankcase.
        
        Low oil pressure in the system.
        
        The motor overheats under light loads.
        
        The engine runs intermittently.
        
        These reasons do not necessarily indicate the need for a major overhaul of the internal combustion engine. If there are many such signs and they are repetitive, then it's time to give the car for capital or do it yourself.
        
        current or in-line repair (repair or replacement of individual parts, for example, painting a bumper);
        
        technical repairs according to the schedule (repair or replacement of worn-out parts that have exhausted their resource);
        
        unscheduled repair of the internal combustion engine (this is when the resource has not yet come out, but the engine for some reason has broken down);
        
        overhaul or overhaul, or capital is done both according to the schedule after the expiration of a given resource, and after the final breakdown.
        
        The mileage resource for average cars is considered to be about 200 thousand km, after passing which its characteristics decrease and it is time to make capital. There are cars with a resource of 1 million.km (they call engines millionaires), although now there are rumors that the resource of new expensive cars, which used to be millionaires, now have a much smaller resource. The more often a car is repaired, the more profitable is the finances of auto manufacturers and auto parts stores, but this spoils the reputation of a brand or a particular car model.
        
        In some cases, with severe wear of the internal combustion engine or severe breakdowns, it is more advisable to swap the engine.
        
        The manufacturer Avtovaz has set the average mileage for VAZ 2114 cars = 150 thousand km. On average, all Russian cars have the same indicators. But, if various problems are eliminated in time, the resource of the motors can easily withstand 250 thousand km. The resource of engines of foreign cars, on average, is 200,000 - 300,000 km before overhaul.
        
        Overhaul of diesel and gasoline engines is done in stages:
        
        Dismantling the internal combustion engine.
        
        Parts washing and cleaning.
        
        After cleaning, an experienced auto mechanic is able to determine how much worn out certain parts, whether they can be repaired or is it better to replace them. Troubleshooting is done, that is, after the cylinder head (cylinder head) has been removed, it and the cylinder block (cylinder head) are checked for chips and cracks; examine the cylinders for scuffs and scratches; determine the clearances of mating parts; inspect the condition of the pistons for chips, shells, carbon deposits; inspect the crankshaft connecting rods; internal combustion engine crankshaft research; fingers; bearings; parts of the gas distribution mechanism are also checked (valves, rocker arms, etc.). They also compare the dimensions of important parts with the factory ones.
        
        After troubleshooting, it is necessary to assess the degree of wear of the entire engine: what to change, what to leave, what to repair.
        
        If you have never had to completely disassemble the engine, then it would be more correct and better to invite a friend who understands.
        
        Disassembly is desirable in a warm and well-lit garage.
        
        During disassembly, put all bolts, washers and nuts in a box with partitions, do not throw everything into one bucket.
        
        During disassembly, remember the sequence if you are doing this for the first time.
        
        If you do not know what the parts are called, take the old parts to the store and show them to the seller.
        
        In our do-it-yourself engine overhaul guide, here is the following sequence of actions:
        
        Dismantling and disassembly.
        
        Troubleshooting details.
        
        Flushing disassembled parts.
        
        Order and purchase of spare parts.
        
        Block and crankshaft grinding.
        
        Block head repair.
        
        Verification work.
        
        ICE assembly and installation.
        
        Running in after capital.
        
        Conclusion.
        
        Depending on the make and model of the car (engine design, number of cylinders, type of gearbox), the process of dismantling the engine may differ. The arrangement of the engine on front-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive is also different.
        
        Carburetor engines are much easier and faster to disassemble, since they are not crammed with electronic devices, in the presence of which, in order to get to the engine itself, you have to carefully dismantle them all.
        
        So, if Kamaz has to make capital, for example, then its diesel engine from the Yaroslavl plant YaMZ-236 will take about 10 hours to dismantle. If you do the same work with heavy-duty analogs of Kamaz, it will take more than 30 hours.
        
        And it takes about 3 hours to disassemble the VAZ engine. And the engines of foreign cars will take about 10 hours.
        
        It is necessary to disassemble slowly, throwing bolts and nuts everywhere. With disassembly, diagnostics have already begun, so to speak.
        
        Defect detection in this case is mechanical, that is, it is necessary to check visually and using measuring instruments the wear of parts.
        
        inspect the crankshaft and measure its dimensions, check for bends and alignment;
        
        inspect the cylinder block body (BC);
        
        check the parts of the connecting rod-crank mechanism for backlash and the condition itself: pistons, cylinders, rings, fingers, connecting rods;
        
        inspect the cylinder head housing (cylinder head);
        
        parts of the gas distribution mechanism;
        
        determine the maintainability of parts and assemblies.
        
        Many people neglect such work as washing the motor. It is advisable to rinse each part and clean it of plaque so that the degree of wear can be determined, and also rinse the cylinder head and BC to detect macrocracks, if any.
        
        After completing the troubleshooting procedure and screening out those fit for restoration and not fit, it is necessary to order new parts to replace the unusable ones. When you already know what parts are needed, there is no need to delay with their order and purchase, since new parts still need to be prepared for installation.
        
        Liners (main and connecting rod).
        
        Details of the piston group.
        
        Crank pins.
        
        Connecting rod bushings.
        
        Valves (all, both intake and exhaust).
        
        Oil scraper rings.
        
        Gaskets (complete set).
        
        Valve guides and seats.
        
        Pump with a repair kit.
        
        Oil filter and pump.
        
        Other incidental details.
        
        After the issue of spare parts has been resolved, they begin to repair and restore the block and the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine. On a milling and surface grinding machine, the layer of the seat of the cylinder head and the block itself is removed until there are no cavities and chips left. It so happens that there are several deep shells, because of which you have to remove layers in several passes. Usually, depending on the degree of damage, layers are cut off with a thickness of 1 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.25 mm, 0.1 mm, 0.05 mm. After that, they begin to grind the surface to a mirror finish.
        
        Video (click to play).
        
        There is a special table for grinding the crankshaft, which shows the values of thickness and efficiency after repair in comparison with a new factory one.
        
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