DIY chainsaw chain repair machine

In detail: a machine for repairing chainsaws with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Almost every owner of suburban housing has a chainsaw in stock. And we don't even have to talk about the inhabitants of rural areas: such a tool is a vital necessity for them. And it requires a chainsaw to respect itself and timely maintenance. All service rules are clearly spelled out in the instructions.

The saw kit should include several chains (minimum - 3) plus 2 bars. It is recommended to turn the tire over after 3 hours of operation. After another 3 hours, the chain is replaced. Such simple rules can significantly extend the life of all the elements of the chainsaw. And in life, we practically do not adhere to recommendations and are guided by our own ideas about expediency.

Comparative table of characteristics of chain chainsaws.

After a certain time of operation of the chainsaw, we simply tighten the chain. And at a certain moment, we notice that the tensioning system no longer allows the chain to tighten. The chain is stretched to the limit. It is impossible to work with it further, since the stretched chain will begin to break the drive sprocket, as a result of which the tire wear will greatly increase. The chain must be shortened.

Another reason why you have to shorten the chain is to "fit" a longer chain from another chainsaw to your tire. This is also common, as there is an opinion among users that better chains are made for "professional" chainsaws.

Chainsaw manufacturers claim that it is impossible to shorten the chain at home, since the very technology of their manufacture is very complex and requires high-precision equipment. Practice shows that nothing is impossible. In order to shorten the chain, you need:

Video (click to play).

vice;
hammer;
file;
beard;
pliers;
electric welding machine (in some cases, you can do without it).

The main parameters of the chainsaw chain.

Chainsaw chain is difficult to disconnect. The rivets are made of high quality steel and have a geometric shape that does not allow you to simply knock the rivets out of the link. The inner part of the rivet has a larger radius. On this thickening, the link turns, and the outer parts of the rivets have only a connecting function, therefore, it is enough to simply securely fix them on the outside of the chain. The rivet is removed as follows: the chain is fixed in a vise, and the protruding part is grinded. When sewing, try not to damage the side parts of the links.

It is not recommended to use a grinder, since the parts will heat up very quickly, which will lead to a change in the physical properties of the metal. It is better to use a file or file for grinding. Seam is performed on both sides of the link. Now the rivets can be knocked out of the chain using a barb, slightly bending the side parts of the links.

The chain was disconnected. Do not rush to throw away the rivet removed from the chain. You may not be able to find a suitable replacement for it. Chainsaw manufacturers do not assume that an independent repair of the chain will be carried out, therefore they do not release such rivets on the market.

Chainsaw tine device diagram.

It is also profitable for trading organizations to sell chains in their finished version than small parts for repair. For these reasons, it will be very difficult to find a suitable rivet with the required geometry. It will be even harder to make it at home, so you will have to use an old rivet.

As you may have guessed, the chainsaw chain will have to be disconnected twice. Do not forget to count so that the number of guide lugs on the inside of the chain and the distance between these lugs match with the chain saw drive sprocket. If you are shortening the original chain, then this is not necessary. And if this is a chain from another model of a chainsaw, then everything must be measured and calculated very well. A deviation in the chain pitch (even a small one) from the parameters set by the design will lead to the fact that the chain will stretch again in the shortest possible time (at best) or break the chain saw sprocket. The tire will come to an end, as the driven sprocket will quickly overheat.

If all the parameters of the chain are combined with the parts of your chainsaw, then you can start connecting the links. We connect the links to a rivet, pressing their side parts tightly. It will no longer be possible to rivet the protrusions, since they are grinded flush with the links. We'll have to use electric welding. For this, the electrode must be taken of the smallest diameter.

Determination of chain wear: a - wear of teeth, b - installation of an additional fixing plate on the key link.

It is not recommended to start welding immediately, as it is a very delicate job. Practice doing this on other details first. So you will at least roughly understand at what current you need to cook and what welding time to choose. And the electrode will become shorter, which will allow you to weld more accurately. After all, a very short period of time is enough to "grab" the rivet. After training, we weld the rivets to the lateral parts of the link. It remains only to grind off excess metal on both sides with a file and the chain can be considered ready for use.

The considered option of repairing the chain is not the most reliable, since no one guarantees you the high quality of the final product. The following consequences of such a repair are possible:

Chainsaw chain sharpening diagram with a file.

During welding (especially at a low current), excessive heating of the circuit elements was made, which caused a change in the physical properties of the metal. The soft metal will allow the chain to stretch not along its entire length, but at the point of welding. The chain guides will shift, and other elements of the chainsaw (sprocket, tire) will quickly fail.
The welding depth is greater than planned. The inner part of the rivet was welded to one (or more) parts of the link, which became a violation of the mobility of the links. The consequences will be the same as described in the first case.
Welding quality is poor. In this case, a circuit breakdown may occur during its operation. The fact is that the chain in operation experiences very high lateral loads, so unreliable welding will quickly "work out". The potential for injury will be very high.

The question may arise about the advisability of repairing the chainsaw chain, since the consequences of its repair can be so serious. But all this is only due to inept welding. An experienced welder will do this work quickly and efficiently, which will reduce the likelihood of negative consequences to almost zero. And when rivets are used without subsequent welding, the previously mentioned moments simply disappear. The only question is where to get such rivets. But making them is not so difficult if you have a lathe available.

Do not be afraid: no one offers you to buy a machine. Use a conventional drill. The whole process of making rivets using an electric drill and a conventional file will be described as follows. From a nail, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the inner part of the rivets (check with a caliper), a workpiece is cut out - a piece about 7 cm long. This workpiece is fixed in the head of the electric drill. The drill itself must also be securely fixed.

Two files are fixed on a wooden beam, the distance between which will be equal to the width of the inner part of the rivet. You may not be able to do this quickly, but you must be absolutely precise. It remains only to organize a uniform supply of the bar to the workpiece. We recommend using a piece of board, one end of which is fixed to the stationary part of the workbench using a wide door hinge, and on the second end of the board we fix a block with files.

We check the perpendicularity of the location of the files and the workpiece - and you can start working. We turn on the electric drill and smoothly lower the files. They will make grooves on the workpiece. It is not recommended to make rivets in one go, since it is not worth overheating the metal, but it is necessary to control the thickness of the workpiece on the machined part. A too thin part of the rivet can damage you too, so you need to achieve maximum accuracy. If you can do everything right, then all that remains is to cut off the rivet and use it to connect the chain links.

It is better to cut the rivet by hand, without using a grinder. Do not forget that when cutting metal at high tool speeds, a significant increase in the temperature of the material will occur, which is very undesirable. The finished rivet is in no way inferior to the factory product in quality, so the restored chain will serve for a long time. Negative moments when using homemade rivets will be practically eliminated. The main thing is that when installing the rivets, you do not forget to align the side parts of the links (after all, they had to be unbent when the chain was split). Even a slight protrusion of these elements from the design standard will lead to premature wear of the drive sprocket.

It is recommended to make several rivets at once using the method described earlier. The point here is not only to stock up on such necessary elements for future use (although this is also important). The most important thing from the whole number of products is to choose the most suitable size: any deviation from the norm will make the chain vulnerable at high loads.

The use of remanufactured chains is not recommended when working with dense wood species.

The question often arises as to why the chains are stretched. In a very large number of cases, the reason is the poor quality of the chains. There is a very high percentage of counterfeit goods on the market. But among the main reasons there are other, no less important points. It so happens that the chainsaw itself is the cause of the chain overheating and stretching.This happens due to the fact that the oil supply to the driven sprocket is not adjusted. It may happen that the oil supply hole is clogged or the adjustment is faulty. The chainsaw needs periodic maintenance and adjustment.The chains are also stretched due to wear on the drive sprocket. It turns out that on the worn sprocket there is a slip of the guide protrusions. Parts with such friction are very quickly heated, hence the reason for the stretching of the chains. In practice, the same happens with a low chain tension. The conclusion suggests itself: it is necessary to replace the drive sprocket, chainsaw tires, adjust all elements. Otherwise, the problem will only get worse: the chainsaw will work in jerks, the chains will continue to stretch, the engine will fail (with a very high degree of probability).

Hello dear readers and subscribers of Andrey Noak's Blog. In this article I will tell you how to properly sharpen chainsaw chains at home.At the same time, you will stop spending money on chain sharpening services and will be able, thanks to this material, to make a do-it-yourself machine for sharpening chainsaw chains.

The main mistake most people make is turning with standard round files in their workshops. This operation leads to damage to the working tooth, thereby grinding off the attacking part of it. Here are a few rules to always remember when sharpening:

The overall dimensions of the teeth must be the same;
The angle of the working links and the height of the limiter must match the passport data;
Sharpen the teeth with a specialized round file;
The angle of attack should be 90º vertically and 10-30º horizontally.

Way out. Each of you on the farm has a grinder (grinder). This tool can be sharpened. Many categorically do not accept this method, regulating that there is an opportunity to spoil the chain. As they say, a strong hand, and the skills of working with a grinder will solve the problem, the main thing is not to be afraid.

But it is worth remembering that incorrect chain sharpening angles lead to increased stress on the saw and reduce its performance.

I attach below a video overview of this method. This is how the sharpening of the saw chain turned out from the grinder. In this way, you can sharpen 4 to 7 times. Further, the chain will be unsuitable for sharpening.

Possibility to damage the chain;

Lack of skill in using the tool can lead to injury;

It is very difficult for a beginner to catch a sharpening angle.

The elements of the working links of the chain can be classified as follows:Working edges are located on the blades of the teeth. If sharpening is done according to the passport data, then you can achieve good results when cutting wood. Remember, the higher the sharpening angle, the easier it will be to cut softwood. When cutting thicker or frozen timber, the sharpening angle is reduced. This approach will allow in some cases to reduce the end runout, give the chain softness in operation, in other cases, you can increase the performance of the saw - in general, there is a different approach for each wood!The purchase of a factory machine for sharpening chains for a private person often becomes an unprofitable investment from the economic point of view. That is why you have to invent and chemise the machine yourself.This equipment is divided into:

Mobile;

Stationary versions.

The stationary fixture is located in the workshop on a workbench or work table. The mobile machine tool, in turn, differs, as you might have guessed, in its overall dimensions, weight and sharpening speed. The main difference from the stationary version is that the chain will be sharpened manually, with a round file. It is easily suitable if you went to a summer cottage to work. A schematic diagram of mobile equipment, and you can even call it a photo or a drawing - see below. Image - DIY chainsaw chain repair machine

None of the machines is complete without a base (bed). An old base from a locksmith's vice can act as a basis. We drill holes in the workpiece for fasteners to the workbench. Select the diameter of the holes to your taste.

A swivel bar with clamps is attached to the base, which will be put on, and the chain is fixed when sharpening. The last element in this design, you guessed it, will be the sharpener on the bracket.

Be sure to remember about adjusting the tilt of both the bracket and the electric drive of the sharpening device.

In our case, we use a 220 volt 85W electric motor as a drive. A disc from a grinder with a diameter of 125 mm can serve as a working stone for sharpening. We connect a power cable with a cross section of 3 * 2.5mm to the engine.

At the bottom of the swivel tire, we attach a scale with degrees of rotation, with a reference point from 0 to 35º both to the left and to the right.If you wish, you can mount the drive on and off buttons. For convenience, we mount the support handle on the engine housing. It will allow the drive to be raised and lowered during operation.

For full-fledged work, equip with an LED flashlight, this will illuminate the sharpening working area and the spark with a protective screen from possible contact with abrasives in the eyes, if you decide to work without protective glasses. Here, in principle, the machine for sharpening the chain is ready. See the video review below.

The need for a 220V power supply;

Dimensions;

More difficult to manufacture than the mobile version.

Now it's time to talk about the mobile option. The design of the mobile mechanism is similar to a bow saw. We use a specialized round file as a sawing edge. Now in detail about the details.The base plate will serve as a plate with a fastener for a bar with clamps, on which the chain will be located. A bracket with a swivel mechanism and screws for adjustments is attached to the bus. We mount a file with a handle to this device. Here, in principle, it is ready. Remember to take precautions when working.

Experts advise to rivet and repair the damaged chain with minimal loss of quality, using the technical potential of the service workshop.
Despite the assurances of the manufacturers about the problems and complexity of self-repair,a significant part of users prefer to master the methods of restoring the working capacity of saw sets on their own.

The reason for this phenomenon:

owner's residence at a great distance from service and maintenance points;
the high cost of the repair services provided by the services;
lack of the necessary equipment.

It is not advisable and unsafe to compensate for the natural wear of the chain by shortening. Operating the saw headset with an extended chain is inevitably accompanied by:

forced wear of the tire and the rim of the drive sprocket;
an increase in engine load;
increased trauma risk of sawing works of different levels of complexity.

The reason that the chain is intensively stretched on a chainsaw may be the wrong choice of chain oil or the replacement of the recommended material with an oil substitute, a malfunction of the lubrication system or inaccurate adjustment of the oil pump with variable performance.

Filling the lubrication system with material of substandard density and viscosity negatively affects the lubrication and cooling efficiency of the working surfaces, the performance of the pump supplying chain oil to the saw headset.

Refueling of summer oil can create a lot of problems when operating the chainsaw at low air temperatures from -10 ° C. As a result of an oversight, a breakdown of the oil pump drive is possible, a decrease in its performance to the level of oil starvation.

If the chain on the chainsaw breaks, it is necessary to find out the cause of the malfunction, establish the expediency of repairing the damaged part or installing a new one.

Typical reasons for saw chain breaks are unfavorable external factors:

excessive tension;
wear of the guide bar or inconsistency of the shanks with the width of the working groove;
operation of the saw set with large constant loads;
overheating of the headset due to lack of lubrication;
inconsistency of the chain with the type of tire and the configuration of the crown of the drive sprocket.

Many experienced users prefer to do their own chain repairs. The success of the work performed is determined by the presence of special skills and tools, knowledge of the structural features of models for various purposes.

In particular, dismantling and assembly of wear-resistant analogs does not create any difficulties. Only apply carbide to the cutting edges of the saw links. For connecting elements and rivets, standard metal is used for their production.

With more or less success, you can rivet a chainsaw chain at home, and if you have the right tool, even in the field. Please note that special care should be taken when using a self-refurbished headset. At the first opportunity, a repaired connection in a hospital is desirable.

The problem is that a hastily repaired part contains one or more "weak links". In this state, the operating time of the headset under heavy loads is significantly limited, and increased requirements are imposed on the full operation of the lubrication system.It is possible to use the restored chain in working mode, provided that the repair was carried out by an experienced riveter who has at his disposal a riveting machine and other special equipment. Image - DIY chainsaw chain repair machine

All known methods for shortening a saw chain assume criteria for rejecting damaged cutting and connecting links, a sequence of working steps determined by the technology. Cutting and connecting links are assembled with factory rivets, which in all characteristics correspond to the current standards.

The use of homemade components is not recommended in any case.Special rivets for chains are extremely rare on sale, therefore, in most cases, the problem is solved by installing the necessary parts removed from the dismantled section of the chain.

At home, it is easier to disconnect the chain by cutting off the heads with a file, after which the shortened rivets are easily knocked out with a thin steel rod. The task is simplified by the presence of a release clamp suitable for the step of the chain. The rivets removed by such a device can be used without restrictions.

You can independently connect the ends of the shortened chain in a locksmith's vice. The rivets threaded into the chain elements from the back side are expanded around the circumference with light blows of the middle hammer. The finished joint should not have any backlash, and a tight fit is also not allowed.

When assembling different types of saw chains, the dimensional intervals between the cutting links prescribed by the design must be observed.

A special machine for riveting chainsaws is included in the list of working equipment of specialized workshops. The offered assortment includes several budget and branded models of imported production, costing from 2000 to 5500 rubles.Riveting machines of the Shtil, Huskvarna and Champion brands are characterized by increased capabilities and a comfortable level of work.The cost of universal riveting and riveting machines of the Shtil NG-7 type is about 18,000 rubles. Technically sophisticated devices ensure high quality riveted joints, saving labor time and material costs.The cost of a special machine for sharpening chainsaw chains varies from 2,000 to 6,000 rubles. Image - DIY chainsaw chain repair machine

Recommendations for fixing worn out rivets by electric welding do not take into account changes in the metal structure from even short-term high-temperature effects of the welding arc.

Tacked by welding or heated by an abrasive wheel grinders, the connecting elements of the chain are less wear-resistant, which significantly affects their reliability.

The tight connection of adjacent links is accompanied by additional loads on the engine and the kinematics of the chainsaw.
The lack of a smooth running of the chain makes it difficult for the headset to enter the cut, the possibility of kickbacks and other traumatic moments is not excluded.
"Overtightened" and loose connections of the repaired chain are more susceptible to breakage at a sharp drop in loads.

The simplest machine for repairing chainsaw chains justifies its cost by the ability to completely rivet the damaged chain in a short period of working time and restore its performance at a level of up to 90%.

Chinese-made chainsaw chains are essentially copies of European models, so the above repair recommendations are valid for the entire Chinese chain assortment.

In everyday life, the quality of removable sawing equipment from leading European brands is highly valued. Guide bars and chains from the Shtil and Husqvarna brands enjoy the unofficial status of reference products.

When purchasing a product, you must make sure that the model in terms of length, pitch and thickness of the shank meets the design standards of the chainsaw. The entire chain assortment is divided into five size groups ranging from 1/4 to ¾ inch.

Small-cube models of budget-class chainsaws are equipped with products with a smaller pitch, chains with an increased pitch and thickened shanks - a characteristic feature of the headsets of powerful and productive professional chainsaws.

When buying a branded chain on the market, the risks of acquiring a Chinese chain counterfeit are not excluded. The task of self-selection is complicated by the lack of a reliable way to distinguish a high-quality branded original from a fake, which is an order of magnitude inferior to branded products in terms of work resource.

With more confidence, you can identify calm chains by the silver packaging, the bright orange logo and the presence of a wear indicator. The cheaper Chinese counterparts are decorated more modestly, in gray boxes with a yellow trademark.

You can safely buy saw chains of full quality and durability from brand stores and licensed sales representatives of intermediary companies.

Practice has proven the effectiveness of stabilizing the internal structure of the saw chain metal. Sufficiently prolonged heating of the product in an oil bath with a constant temperature of 60-70 ° C, eliminates internal stresses, contributes to the restoration of the crystal lattice of the metal.

The optimal heating time for the tool steel from which the cutting links are made can vary for 7-10 days or more.

If the chainsaw is not going to be used for a long time, it is recommended to remove the bar and chain, clean it thoroughly and treat it with any neutral preservative. The above fully applies to spare headsets.Regardless of the type of packaging, it is advisable to store dismantled parts in dry rooms with a stable temperature. If these conditions are observed, the formation of condensate moisture and the appearance of pitting corrosion are excluded.Often during the operation of the chainsaw, the saw chain stretches, which makes it impossible to further use the tool. Today, there are specialized workshops that provide services for shortening chainsaw chains, but it is possible to shorten the chainsaw chain with your own hands at home or right at the workplace.A chainsaw chain, regardless of manufacturer, can stretch for several reasons: Image - DIY chainsaw chain repair machine

Incorrect operation of the oil pump. An insufficient supply of oil leads to overheating of the chain and its rapid stretching.
Normal wear and tear. Occurs as a result of prolonged use of the tool.
Use of poor quality lubricant.
Violation of the rules for operating a chainsaw.

Important: If any irregularities in the operation of the oil pump are detected, it is necessary to eliminate the malfunctions, to ensure the normal lubrication of the saw blade. Failure to do so may result in drive sprocket failure. You should also pay attention to the quality of the oil. The presence of various kinds of abrasive microparticles in the oil is not allowed.

You can properly shorten the chainsaw chain with your own hands using special tools.

For disassembly, a specialized machine is used - a punch. The machine is designed as a small mechanical press. A removable anvil with grooves of different sizes is installed in its lower part. The working rod of the device also has attachments of different diameters. This makes it possible to use the machine for chains from different manufacturers. The rivet is removed by squeezing it out of the seat.

Attention: the diameter of the removable stem tip must not exceed the diameter of the hole in the side plates.

After disassembling and removing the chain element, it is necessary to reconnect the working links. For this purpose, a riveting machine is used. The assembly process takes place using a special work roller, which is driven by an electric motor.

The rivet is clamped between the stationary anvil and the work roll. The operator independently sets the pressure of the work roller using the adjusting screw. During the rotation of the roller, the edge of the rivet is gradually crushed, which makes it impossible for the links to detach from each other.

Reference: the use of machines in order to shorten the chainsaw chain allows the build quality to be as close as possible to the factory model.However, these devices are quite expensive, and their purchase for home use is unprofitable. In addition, it is not always possible to use specialized devices right at the workplace. In this regard, shortening can be performed with improvised tools.

There are several ways to remove rivets without using specialized tools:

Grind off the protrusions on the emery. When using this method, it is necessary to control the degree of pressure on the rivet in order to avoid damage to the working parts.
Cut with the cut-off wheel of an angle grinder. It should be borne in mind that in this case the metal heats up, which will affect its properties.
Saw off the heads with a file or file. This minimizes the risk of link damage.
Chop down using a chisel. Before starting work, you will need to securely fix the chain in a vice.

After the outer protrusions are completely cut off, you will need to knock the rivet out of the seat. To do this, you need to select a punch, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the hole. The punch must be put on the rivet and knocked out with a sharp blow with a hammer. After completing these steps, the chain will be disconnected.

Attention: To avoid damage to the links, you must secure them securely. In addition, the punch should be installed strictly perpendicular to the rivet cut.

To assemble the chain, you will need to install a repair link on it. It must be borne in mind that its dimensions must strictly correspond to the dimensions of the working links. Installing a replacement part with a different pitch or profile can damage the drive sprocket, driven sprocket and saw blade.

The repair link is sold with rivets that you just need to fasten. To do this, place the chainsaw chain on an anvil. After that, put the punch on the new rivet and flatten the head with a sharp blow with a hammer. It is necessary to rivet until the resulting thickening covers the hole in the outer plate.

When flattening, control the degree of clamping of the side plates. After assembly, the installed link must move freely along the axis. Installing a chain with a jammed link on a chainsaw is not allowed. Failure to follow this rule can lead to more serious damage to the device.

Some people use electric arc welding machines for assembly. In this case, the edges of the rivet are welded to the outer link plates. The use of electric welding involves heating the metal to a high temperature. As a result of overheating, the properties of the metal change, it becomes less wear-resistant.

Recommendation: after assembling and installing the part on the chainsaw, you need to check its performance with a minimum load. Only in case of normal operation can the load be increased.

From the information described above, it follows that chain stretching on a chainsaw is a fairly common phenomenon. It is quite possible to shorten the chain at home, you just have to enlist the traditional tools that almost every owner has in stock.

Hello everyone. Recently I bought a machine for sharpening chainsaw chains and literally immediately stumbled upon a problem - the backlash of the connection of the upper cutting part and the fastening base.