In detail: a machine for repairing a bicycle with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Recently I read an interesting article about how using pipes, a corner, and welding making a repair machine is great with your own hands.
Many citizens no welding machine, as well as those familiar with the welding machine. But also spend 1500 UAH. I don't want to buy a shop machine.
I would like to share my version of a machine for repairing a bicycle from a pipe, an angle, four bolts and a stem.
Of the tools you will need: a drill, a hacksaw for metal, half an hour.
The bike will be attached to the stem using the seatpost.
At the dacha, just such a machine was made by me. Completely efficient and compact design. It is easy to disassemble and fit into the closet until better times.
Screenshots from 3D Inventor, and AutoCAD drawing.
I will add live photos to the topic later (when I get to the dacha).
1.Steel corner 30x4 - half a meter (price 6 UAH in Budmen)
2. Steel pipe 1 meter long and 25-30mm in diameter (suitable from the old cornice). the price is 15-20 UAH.
3. Removal old, bought at a flea market, under the steering wheel 31.5mm. (price 5-20 UAH) such as this
4.two anchor bolts М8 (5 UAH)
5.two ordinary bolts and nuts М8 (2 UAH)
Total 20-45 UAH. (it cost me 10 hryvnyas for a take-out. Everything else was my own)
The design principle is as follows:
-We drill a couple of holes in the wall with a drill for M8 (the machine will be mounted on the wall), and drive anchor bolts into these holes
-Bend the pipe 90 degrees (gently with a hammer), and drill two holes in the pipe, at the same distance as in the wall.
-Drill two more holes in the pipe to screw the corner, as shown in the picture above.
Video (click to play). |
- We fix the corner with bolts and M8 nuts, as shown in the picture above. This is done in order to give additional rigidity to the structure.
- Install the pipe on the anchor bolts and tighten the nuts.
- set the stem as shown in the figure.
Everything! The machine is ready.
You can mount your bike for the seatpost and engage in repairs, adjustments, etc.
Wrap tape around the seatpost to avoid scratching.
I made my machine in two passes. First, I made it entirely from a 50x5 corner, a short pipe and an extension.
A huge and massive structure turned out. Spent two days on this. The corner is thick, it is difficult to cut with a hacksaw and it is difficult to drill.
During the manufacturing process, the idea arose to modify the machine. As a result, I assembled such a simple and functional miracle.
Just in case, I post a drawing of my machine in AutoCAD. Side view without extension.
The tool for making a machine tool needs a high-quality one. Quality drills, one thin to drill a hole,
another thick M8. And one drill with a victorious tip, for holes in the wall.
I recommend using only high quality drills. Cheap drills do not drill a steel corner and pipe and only spoil your nerves.
To cut off a corner, you need a hacksaw for metal and a cloth. I also recommend using either Soviet or Branded foreign ones.
Cheap hacksaws for 20-40 UAH. do not hold the canvas and break often.
P. S. From the remains of the Corner and the pipe, you can quickly make turnnik room... See photo below
The one on top, the usual horizontal bar from the corner of 30x4, the one below - the horizontal bar / bars from the corner of 50x5
He made 4 such horizontal bars and gave them all to friends. Very reliable designs, and most importantly cheap and do it yourself.
Amateurs cyclists who have to repair or maintain a bicycle know how hard it is to do it without a special lifting rack to fix the bicycle at a comfortable height during repairs.
Professional racks are expensive, but in the meantime, you can make a simple home-made product, materials for which will be the remnants of pvc or plastic pipes, for example, after repairs.
Diameter of pipes and fittings (PVC 1 1/2 PPR 40)
- Pipe 38 cm long - 4 pcs. (for the base)
- Pipe 90 cm long - 2 pcs. (for legs)
- Pipe 41 cm long - 1 pc. (bottom support)
- Pipe 130 cm long - 1 pc. (retractable support)
- Pipe (PVC 2 ″ PPR 50-63) 8 cm - - 1 pc. (for support)
- Tee - 3 pcs.
- 90 degree angle - 2 pcs.
- Plug - 3 pcs.
- Crosspiece - 1 pc.
- adhesive for PVC pipes
Making brackets for fastening a bicycle to a rack is the most laborious operation at first glance. But in reality - there is nothing complicated here.
The upper support is made from a tee. The end part of the tee is cut to the radius of the pipe and glued with pvc glue.
For gluing the support, a tee cut in half was used.
The bottom support is made from a cross. A piece of tubing with diameters of 2 inches for pvc or 50-63 for PPR is glued to the crosspiece. The length of the tube is 8 cm.
Here I think everything is clear to everyone at once, soldering and gluing pipes is one of the simplest operations.
Tubing sizes are shown above in the list of materials.
To maintain alignment when gluing or soldering, you can apply a mark on the pipe and fittings.
After the stand is glued or soldered. We carry out finishing and adjustment to the bike frame.
We solder pipes with 2 corners, with 2 tees. do not forget about the stubs.
We cut the hole for the lower carriage with the help of an engraver.
Don't forget to adjust the clearance between the bottom support mount and the bike sprocket.
After all the adjustments, the bike repair rack is ready.
The design is not without flaws - but the main thing, as they say, is the idea, if anyone has any wishes and suggestions, we add it to the comments.
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The idea to make bike stations with your own hands came after looking at the prices for these on the Internet. And the weather forecast for the next week made me shudder from the feeling of approaching frost. Having made an unconditional decision to make a machine and not back down, he began to select materials. A mental glance fell on a polypropylene pipe PN10 with a diameter of 75mm, it seems that this is for future rollers. But the price of this pipe has bite a lot - 900 rubles per meter and is sold only for four meters.
But fate smiled at me and I became the owner of a free piece of pipe, true 63diameter and brand PN25. A wall thickness of 10.5 for this fiberglass-reinforced tube gives an inner diameter of 42mm.
But to make a roller from this pipe, you need to shove bearings with an axle inside. It turned out that bearings with an outer diameter of 42 exist in nature and look like this.
The price of these bearings is very democratic 38 rubles, but this is for Chinese, but Russian-made ones already cost 60-something. I decided to support the Russian manufacturer. A rhetorical question arose: "How much to take?" The internal mechanic advised to take more i.e. four bearings per roller 50-60 cm long.
So I will continue.
The first ambush turned out to be the following. The inner diameter of the pipe, based on the subtraction of the wall thickness from the diameter, should turn out to be 42 mm, but in practice a little more. Slowly the idea came to wind something on the bearing. A copper plate 0.3 mm thick was at hand. From it I built a spacer for the desired diameter.
I tried it, it seems like it comes a little tight. Made the same for the rest of the bearings.
Speaking of bearings. New bearings, especially Chinese ones, suffer from insufficient lubrication. It is corrected easily by opening the boot, for example with a scalpel, prying the inside of the boot, pulling it towards you and putting in the grease.
The lubricant was laid, leaving free space for expansion when heated. After all, if you twist on the machine with a frenzy, then the bearings will get very hot.
The next problem with the selection of the axle for the inner diameter of the bearing was quickly resolved. Taking a pin for 14, I decided to similarly make a spacer for a diameter of 15, which is on the bearing.
I collected everything based on the size of my video, namely 60cm. Most likely, the size can be slightly reduced and somewhere 50cm or even 40cm will be enough for a normal rider. All the same, 60cm is a bit too much. It turned out like this.
Then he decided to collect further.
As a result, the assembled video looks like this.
You need to fix the rollers on the frame for a longer time and turn it calmly. The frame can be made from 40x40 or 50x50 wooden blocks. I think everyone can do it.
Post has been edited pasha: 11 October 2016 - 15:34
But how much will the pipe bend under load? The axle hairpin also does not have the required rigidity. That is, the structure will play, which, however, will not prevent it from working, it is just that the bearing life will probably decrease. Or polypropylene of such a diameter and such length, apparently, does not bend under the load “racer / 2”?
Borisych, you can immediately see a tech-savvy person.
I wanted to keep silent about this, keeping the veil of secrecy, but apparently I have to tell.
I decided to make the frame for my machine a metal one, which will give as much stiffness to the tension of the stud as possible. Those. the fixed roller will be on a hairpin stretched like a string.
I will add.
The pipe that I use does not bend at a length of 60cm. The wall thickness is 10mm and is also reinforced with fiberglass. There is a similar pipe with an aluminum multilayer reinforcement.
Post has been edited pasha: 11 October 2016 - 16:23
Do-it-yourself bike rack
There was a need to take up bicycles. Adjust switches, brakes. In general, scheduled maintenance.
It was not possible to find bicycle workshops in my area, it was a long way to go to the usual place where the bicycle masters hang out - Sokolniki. By car with two bicycles crap. On its own, even more crap.
In short, what's so difficult about it? All these settings can be done by yourself. You just need to hang up the rear wheel.
1. Two bicycles eager to get busy
2. Two one and a half meter pieces of reinforcement 10.
3. Using a homemade bending machine, do it - time. Due to the imperfection of the machine, I had to tinker with such a double bend.
4. Next, I bend the tops of the arcs. Here it took a long time and stubbornly to adjust the correct angles in two planes. There were no drawings, everything is done by eye. It was necessary that these folds in the final product were strictly vertical.
7. I bend the deflection at the bases so that it stands on 4 points, and not on 2 strips.
10. Installation of the bike is due to the lugs clinging to the trunk. This was the most versatile setup for two different bikes. It was not possible to fasten the nut and the eccentric, the seats were too different.
11. Posted fine. The fixation is dead, no bouncing or shifting.
But what if the bike is without a trunk? Well, these two are always with trunks.
14. I reduce the width of the ears. This makes it easier to insert where necessary.
Greetings!
I finally overcame my laziness and decided to write about new devices from the tea room)) Let's start with the cycling theme.
So today I'm going to talk about a bike stand for repair and customization. Details further
Small digression:
this summer, my rear derailleur fell apart on the road (because it was so bad), I bought a new one and put it on, but after I set it up (lifting the saddle with one hand, switch gears with the other, and kicking the pedal) I decided that such a stand would be very helpful in such a situation.
The site indicates that the color is sent randomly. Well, I got the color of childish surprise (sadness-pichal).
The thing is weighty, the plastic looks good.
Let's take a closer look at the details
Thanks to the teeth, the structure moves apart in steps, and in the unfolded state it will not corrode (if the handle is tightened)
Now we will put a bicycle on this structure.
By the way, at first it was kept free, I had to bend the stand a little.
Outcome
You can use it without flimsy. The price tag is too high, but not only in the chinabai - on Ali I found the same stand for 16 or even 30.
You can build it yourself, but it takes time and desire.
Thank you for your attention!
I do not publish the coupon, because I'm not sure if it works, and no one seems to be asking
Over time, the happy owner of a brand new bike is faced with the problem of its breakdown. The easiest way is to take your bike to the workshop, where all the work will be done for you. But this is not always possible and very expensive. Therefore, I would recommend to start buying bike tools on the sly. Most of the operations are very simple, do not take much time, and the tools themselves will quickly pay for themselves. Plus, there will be no fear of going on a long bike trip alone.
Bicycle repair tools can be divided into 2 categories:
1) Priorities, which will be needed not only at home, but also in rides of any duration. It makes sense to purchase them immediately.
2) For complex repair and replacement of specific bike parts. Purchased as needed.
1) Hexagon set or multitool. In modern bicycles, almost all assemblies use hex bolts. You can buy a regular car kit, you can buy only those hexagons that are needed for your bike (roughly three of them), or you can buy a multitool. A multitool, in addition to hexagons, can have several types of screwdrivers, a squeeze for the chain (more on it later), pliers, wire cutters, a knife, a saw. I wrote a report on one of the multitool, but it is more of a general purpose. For a bicycle, a more compact one with a smaller set of tools is suitable.
2) Forcing the chain. It is necessary for removing the chain, the tool is indispensable, because if the chain breaks during the ride, then you will not be able to change the link or simply shorten it manually. It is not worth saving on squeeze, as well as on hexagons, otherwise it will only warm the soul until it shows its incapacity in practice.
3) Repair kit for the camera. It is cheaper to glue the camera over than to buy a new one every time. The repair kit includes a set of patches, glue and sandpaper. On the rights advertising common sense, I recommend pouring Hi-Gear type car sealant into the chambers, and forget about punctures.
4) Boarding paddles. It will be needed when installing and removing the tire. Many people can handle it with their hands, but in the case of road tires or wide XC tires, the process will be difficult. Damaging the rims and putting the camera at risk using screwdrivers or wrenches is okay, but is it worth it?
5) Spokes wrench (cheburashka). Small eights can be easily learned to correct yourself, you just need a key. The spokes often break while riding, so they take spare ones on a bike trip, and the tool will definitely come in handy.
6) Pedal wrench... As far as I know, all pedals need a regular 15 wrench, but the special one has a thin section, as well as a convenient shape, which will facilitate the process of removing the pedals. The pedals are unscrewed counterclockwise, that is, the right pedal is unscrewed counterclockwise, and the left, on the contrary, clockwise.
1) Cassette removal tools. The cassette has to be removed when caring for the rear wheel hub, when changing the spoke from the cassette side, and directly to replace the cassette with a new one, which is done about 2-3 times less often than changing the chain. You will need a spanner with a whip and a puller. The cassette is unscrewed in the direction in which the wheel rotates freely, and therefore a whip from the chain is used, which you can make yourself, but it is easier to buy.You can also be perverted with towels and show your imagination in every possible way.
With a puller, things are a little more complicated. If the cassette goes with 7 stars, then it uses a bushing with a screwed on ratchet, and then you need a left puller (pictured). For all other bushings - the remaining two, and for a hollow one it is better to take the right-hand puller, since it has a directing axis.
2) Tools for system removal and carriage maintenance. Unambiguously advising the tool will not work. Carriages are divided into 2 types - cartridge (non-collapsible) and collapsible. Initially, you need a squeeze for the connecting rods. Then, in the first case (for the cartridge carriage), a slotted wrench will be enough, as in the picture below:
And for collapsible, several variations of keys - it can be slotted, and such as in the photo:
In addition, the Hollowtech system is now popular, with which it is enough to have only a key for the carriage cups. In general, cranks and carriages are where it is best to consult a bike store.
3) Bushing keys. Now many of them are non-separable (cartridge) and do not need a special tool for maintenance. Those with bushings on loose bearings will need tapered wrenches.
4) Set for bleeding disc brakes. Ready-made options are on sale, there are no particular difficulties with the choice.
5) Cable cutters. Special wire cutters are needed so that the tip does not unravel. It is also advisable to use a special tip into which the end of the cable is pressed.
6) A ruler for measuring chain wear. A useful thing in the household. Allows you to accurately determine whether you need to change the chain or hallelujah - financial spending is postponed for later. Remember to lubricate your chain to keep it running longer. I separately considered the best way to lubricate a bicycle chain.
7) Repair stand. I doubt that many of those who read the article will buy it - the toad will crush it. However, in the process of repairing the bike, I am sure that the thought of a stand will not leave you.
It seems that the list of basic tools for a bicycle and its repair has exhausted itself on this. In general, the tools are not cheap, but active Catalans in the long term will find it more profitable to acquire them.
You can buy instruments in Russia here.
In winter, you also want to ride a bike. And just a roller machine or exercise bike will help you in this endeavor. A wide variety of models can be found in sports stores. But we will try to make such a structure on our own, guided by the advice of foreign masters.
-
PVC tubes 7.5 cm in diameter and 46 cm long (3 pcs.).
6 or more skateboard or ball bearings.
Steel beam 53 cm long (3 pcs.).
All dimensions in the picture are in inches. It is not necessary to follow the numbers presented exactly. It is enough just to take into account that the bicycle wheels must be on the corresponding rollers. Moreover, the rear wheel rests immediately on 2 rollers.
PVC tubes are great as rollers.
You can watch them in action in this video clip.
The skateboard bearings are mounted on wooden wheels. Insert a PVC tube between 2 of these discs to create a roller construction.
You will have to cut the plywood discs yourself and make 2 indentations for the screws in them (see photo 2). Using enlarged washers, you need to fix the position of the bearings.
It consists of 2 oblong wooden platforms.
To connect the frame and rollers, you need to sew the drive belt. You can use a rope, rubber band, or something else to do this.
Center wheel and front wheel should be connected. The main thing is to create tension. Also, the belt should not slip out from under the rollers.
Based on the photo, we assemble the roller machine with our own hands. We compare the result with the pictures.
There are many similar simulators, made in a slightly different way.
Regular inspection and repair of the bike is a guarantee that the owner of this vehicle will be alive and well, no force majeure will happen to him. Many people prefer to contact professionals for preventive maintenance of the bicycle, but it is quite possible to prepare the vehicle for use with their own hands.
Before starting routine bike repairs, you need to stock up on certain tools. They will come in handy in any case and will last a long time. Basic tools for bicycle maintenance:
- hex keys of different sizes - it is advisable to purchase them immediately in a set;
- wrenches of different sizes - it is advisable to buy a set;
- screwdrivers - you will need both Phillips and slotted;
- pliers of different sizes;
- tweezers;
- mallet;
- end nozzles;
- scissors;
- clamps.
These tools and devices should always be available, because they may be needed at any time. In addition to the above, it is worth purchasing:
- bicycle chain brush;
- sleeve wrench;
- a squeeze for a bicycle chain;
- ratchet wrench;
- spoke key.
Consumables are also a necessary tool for the repair and maintenance of bicycles - they should not only be always available, but also in sufficient quantities. Consumables in this case include:
- brake fluid;
- oil for various parts;
Note:you need oil for every part - forks, chains, pedals and so on. - solvents;
- cleaners;
- hydraulic oil.
All these consumables will help not only to repair the bike in a quality manner, but also to keep your vehicle in almost perfect condition. Particular attention should be paid to lubricants - their choice on the market is simply huge, you can trust the sellers, but with caution. In order not to be mistaken, you should remember the following recommendations of specialists:
- Any liquid lubricant (I5A oil, for example) is suitable only for processing the rear bushing drum and chain. Such a lubricant has an individual feature - it is excellent for spot application. But there is also one critical point - if you plan to ride a bicycle in the cold season, then liquid lubricant cannot be used, since at subzero temperatures it quickly hardens and complicates the operation of mechanisms.
- If there is no time for full-fledged repair work, but it is urgent to lubricate the chain and cables, then aerosol lubricants can be used. They instantly restore the operation of all hinge joints, they are simple to operate - even a child can handle the job.
- For the processing of threads and bearing assemblies, the use of thick grease will be the best option.
In order to properly sort out a bike, you need to know the purpose of each detail and be able to carefully examine them.
The most important thing in caring for a bike frame is keeping it clean. Therefore, before proceeding with the bulkhead of the vehicle, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the frame from dirt, dust and peeling paint so that these particles do not get into the mechanisms and make them unusable. The best way to clean your bike frame is to wash it with a warm soapy solution.
The only way to avoid problems while using the bike is to carefully examine the wound for cracks and chips. Experts recommend paying special attention to the upper stays of the rear triangle, the head tube, the rear suspension and the bottom bracket when examining. If, when examining the bike frame, scuffs and paint chips are found, then they must be eliminated - it is advisable to use paint from a spray can for this, having previously cleaned the place from rust, dust and paint residues.
The rules for rebuilding the steering column of a bicycle depend only on its type - if an integrated column is installed, then you only need to lubricate it, but with a semi-integrated steering column with a ball bearing mechanism, it will be necessary to replace not only the lubricant, but also the balls. There is even a direct sign of the need to replace parts - during the operation of the bicycle, the creak of the head tube will be clearly audible and problems with turning the wheel will appear.
It is imperative that when servicing a two-wheeled vehicle, special attention is paid to the fork - you need to regularly clean your feet and boots from road dirt, if necessary, replace oil seals, pistons, springs and lubricant.
Please note that when servicing the bike fork, it is very important not to damage the ring springs - they act as protection against dust particles and external dirt.
Craftsmen do not recommend cleaning and repairing the suspension yourself - its mechanism is quite complex and requires certain knowledge and experience. But even if you managed to sort out the suspension yourself, then let a professional carry out the replacement of cartridges.
The bicycle chain also needs regular maintenance - it is removed with the help of a special squeeze, if there is a lock on the chain, and if it is absent, then the process is carried out manually. The chain is cleared of dirt, its tension is checked, the rollers are lubricated - this is the necessary minimum of work that needs to be done.
The system must be cleaned with a special solvent (this liquid can also be used when working with a chain). It is imperative to make sure that when assembling the system, the sprockets are put in the right order - be guided by the special pin on the middle star, which should "look" at the carriage.
A set of rear sprockets (called a cassette) must be removed with a puller and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust - this work is not difficult even for an inexperienced cyclist.
The bulkhead of the ratchet consists in flushing and lubricating an industrial bearing, if a ball mechanism is installed, then it is carefully examined, if necessary, parts are replaced. After this maintenance, the bike mechanism will perform much better.
The comfort of the cyclist when the vehicle is moving depends on the gearshift. It is not recommended to carry out their maintenance yourself; it is better to entrust the work to professionals. But if you decide to sort out the gear selectors with your own hands, then you will need to correctly adjust the screws that limit the travel of the foot. Be sure to pay attention to the correct installation of the mechanism in relation to the systems and stars. Do not forget about regularly checking the cable tension.
In general, the carriage is designed in such a way that it cannot be disassembled. But in reality, many craftsmen disassemble it for routine maintenance.
Note: if the carriage is being overhauled, then you need to remember the original location of all its parts and industrial bearing cups - they must fit exactly into place during assembly.
The peculiarity of the shifters is that during the operation of the bicycle they experience a minimum load - this allows them to be serviced once a whole season. When working with them, you will need to clean the entire mechanism, lubricate it. We must not forget about the cables - they are wiped with a special oil, which ensures their soft sliding inside the mechanism.
Bicycle brakes are the safety of vehicle operation, therefore, they need to be given special attention when servicing. Experts believe that when bulkheading a bicycle, working with the braking system is the most important process.
The work with the braking system should be carried out in three directions:
- Checking the pistons, overhauling the calipers and, if necessary, replacing parts with new ones.It is very easy to detect problems in the operation of the calipers - the cyclist will note the "failure" of the brake lever and unreasonably long braking of the vehicle.
- The brake lever should be fully disassembled. And although its design is simple (handle, body and piston), problems can occur - for example, O-rings often fail. If such a problem is found, the rings must be completely replaced.
- Checking the brake fluid in the hydraulic line. This stage must be carried out, because even a change in the structure of the brake fluid (it often loses its homogeneity) can lead to malfunctions in the brake system.
The pedals are the most delicate part of the entire bike, but the load on them is always the maximum. To check their work, it will be enough to scroll them with your hand. If the pedals spin too slowly or stop too quickly, then you need to disassemble and lubricate them. This process is carried out classically - disassembly is carried out from the end, carefully examining the bearing mechanism.
Note: some models of bicycles have clipless pedals. When overhauling them, it is very important to thoroughly lubricate the springs, otherwise, the shoes will snap too tight.
Wheels are also parts of the bike that are constantly subjected to increased stress. Points to consider when rebuilding wheels:
- bushings with industrial bearings need to be sorted out once every two seasons - they have a huge margin of safety;
- bushings with ball bearings are sorted out before each season - the balls can be dents and scuffs, which implies their replacement;
- the rims are checked for curvature and, if this problem is found, the spokes are pulled in the opposite direction.
Cyclists need to know more than just repairing and regularly maintaining their vehicle. it is very important to pay attention to the wear of some parts in time and immediately eliminate the problems. What parts of bicycles do experts recommend paying attention to:
- bearings;
- transmission;
- frame;
- brake system;
- wheels;
- suspensions.
Over the years, a large number of bicycles have passed through my hands, as well as a complete set of tools for their maintenance. Bicycles keep coming and going, but the tools will stay with me for the rest of my life. This is why it is so important to buy quality tools if you intend to repair and tune your bike yourself.
Professional bike repair tools don't come cheap, but they make even complex repairs an easy task. With them, you can be sure not to damage the components you just purchased, your bike or yourself. Working with a cheap tool has dire consequences. If the bike is expensive, then it is better to use the appropriate tools.
Home Bicycle Workshop Tools
For a modest amount of money to buy a tool, you can do most of the maintenance work on your bike at home. Frame repair tools, professional tools, and cutting tools are quite expensive, but over time, you may come to see them as a valuable investment. But until you have the tools, it's best to entrust the local bike mechanic with installing new components and adjusting your bike. Over time, with some technical experience, you will be able to calculate and compare how much money you spend at the bike shop and how much you will spend if you buy the right tools.
Below is a basic set of tools for the home bike workshop to meet most of your needs:
- hex keys 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10 mm
- floor pump
- chain cleaner
- cleaning brushes
- pliers and pliers
- wire cutters
- screwdrivers (large and small, flat and cross)
- nylon (or wooden) mallet and carpentry (metal) hammer
- open end wrench set from 6 to 24 mm
- cassette remover
- whip for removing cassette
- chain squeezing
- cable tensioner
- awl
- star puller
- adjustable wrench
- taper wrenches (17 mm, 15 mm and 13 mm)
- pedal key
- tapered wrenches (17.15 and 13 mm)
- professional chain stretching
- chain wear gauge
- instant keys
- connecting rod puller
- steering column keys (optional)
- carriage puller
- wheel alignment machine
- with face keys.
You may also find the following tools useful:
- disc brake bleeding kit
- hacksaw
- files (flat and semicircular)
- set of socket wrenches.
More advanced home tools
As your experience grows, it makes sense to add the following names to your toolbox:
- steering column cup press
- steering column cup remover
- bearing ring puller from fork crown
- bearing ring press to fit on the fork crown
- frame cock straightener
- set of taps for threading
- a tool for aligning the back draw of the web ("ears" under the wheel on the frame)
- brake disc turning tool
- template for cutting the steering column.
Specialized and professional tools:
- head tube reamer and turning tool
- carriage tapping and turning tool
- fork crown lacing tool
- seat tube reamer
- frame aligner
- chain line meter
- wheel centering device
- spoke tension meter
Repair on the road
The basic field tool kit should consist of a collapsible hexagon set. screwdrivers, two paddles for removing the lids, one or two cameras and a bicycle first aid kit with patches. Putting this basic set in your saddle bag will save you the hassle of stuffing your pockets with a tool. For long journeys, you can add a chain release, a spoke wrench, a small wrench and small parts, as well as brake pads and chain links.
A complete kit for long trips away from home should include:
- tire removal paddles
- two spare cameras
- first aid kit (set for gluing punctures)
- tire patches
- spoke wrench and spare spoke (good for emergency cable spokes)
- a good pump that also lets you swing the shock (if the bike uses an air fork or rear suspension)
- high-quality squeezing of the chain, several reserve links and replaceable axles
- hexagons: typically 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 mm
- multitool with pliers and sharp knife
- small bottle of chain oil with dosing dropper
- screeds
- spare cables and brake pads (only needed if you are going to a place where there are no bike shops).
Tips for transporting tools
- The spokes can be attached to the frame or hidden in the seatpost.
- The wire spokes are convenient for quick repairs, since they do not need to be threaded through the holes in the hub flanges, but hooks are attached, which eliminates the need to remove the cassette.
- Use the road repair kit only when traveling. When you pick up a tool from your home bike repair kit, you will eventually end up leaving your tire spatulas on your kitchen counter someday. and you will not be able to use them when you really need them on the road.
- Wear the spoke wrench on your key ring - this will make it easier to find.
- Tools can be stuffed into an old water bottle and placed in a spare flask holder. Secure the tools with a shoe strap to prevent them from rattling.
- If you are riding with friends, there is no need to bring several wheel pumps and shock absorbers with you. Distribute the repair kit among yourself so that you do not transport the same thing.
Hydration packs are ideal for carrying large amounts of tools, especially large items such as chambers and shock pump. It is better to carry these things on your back, away from the bike, as well as pockets that can sag under the weight and cause regular inconvenience when overcoming irregularities.
Video (click to play). |
Guy Andrews "Mountain Bike Maintenance"