Starter Audi 100 DIY repair

Already on the site, at your request, the audi 100 c3 starter - come in, we have become even more convenient. DIY car repair manuals plus auto maintenance videos.

How to repair a car with your own hands at home. We will help ourselves to repair and repair the car ourselves. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I attach a video instruction.

Laughter in the subject: In youth, you make plans for life, in maturity - for a year, in old age - for a day.

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Car owner's assessment: A good turbocharged engine, so far it has never failed. In the winter, the first year I stood on the street - it would start in any frost. I don't even know what else to add to the advantages of this car - everything is in place, everything is thought out, even the Shumka is well done. In the new car, nothing had to be finished and finished, as it was in the Zhiguli. Several times my wife and I drove far and for a long time - no problems on the track. The 122 hp engine pulls briskly and helps with overtaking very much. The trunk seems to be small, the new one, with the seats unfolded, managed to load the disassembled sofa from the furniture salon.

Owner's story Audi 100 (C4) - dealership service. Upstairs. Audi 100 ›Logbook› how to remove the starter was 1 day ago.

How to remove a starter on an audi 100 c4 2.6. Details. To remove the starter from the 2.6 or 2.8 engine of the audi c4, we first need to remove the generator.

Club of car lovers AUDI 100. Communication, articles, spare parts. How to remove a starter on a 1990 audi 100 (44). Answer. Posts: 11 • Page 1 of 1.

I took off the starter two whole times, not in the pit, but lying under the car! To replace, you need a powerful one. Since a powerful diesel starter must develop a significant torque. We bring to your attention the address and telephone directory of auto enterprises. Disconnect wire tag from magnetic switch.

Since a powerful diesel starter must develop a significant torque. Serviceability of the starter can only be checked in the removed state.

Disconnect the ground wire from the battery terminal. Mark the main electrical wire and disconnect it from. Disconnect wire tag from magnetic switch. Unscrew the starter wire holders. If installed, remove the rear starter support. Remove the starter from the engine and remove it from the engine under the car.

When doing so, note the location. Remove starter cover if fitted. Remove the rear starter support. Remove the starter from the bottom of the engine compartment. Remove the right front wheel. Remove the muffler exhaust manifold reinforcement from the housing.

Remove the starter from the engine compartment on the right side above the tie rod. Remove the starter and clamp it in a jawed vise.

Unscrew the electrical connection to the starter and unhook. Remove the magnetic switch from the starter. When assembling the eyelet of the pull rod of the magnetic switch, lubricate with high-temperature.

Observe the correct position of the return spring, and then. Replacing the starter brushes If the starter refuses to work, then perhaps the brushes are only jammed if.

To replace, you need a powerful one. If you do not have it, then you need to contact a car repair shop. There, your starter will also be checked for mechanical and electrical presence. Depending on the type of starter, the removal of the manifold shield is spacer. After removing the manifold shield, disconnect the carbon brush wire. Remove the carbon brushes with pressure springs from the guides.

If necessary, clean the brushes and guides with a cloth. Check carbon pads for wear. If they are worn down to their own. Depending on the type of starter, new brushes in any case. To do this, cut the wire of the old brush in the middle between.Strip the free end of the copper wire and note that. Before assembly, check if the carbon brushes are stuck in them. Starter repair If the removed starter shows strong signs of wear, for example strongly retracted.

A starter worn out in this way should not be repaired on your own. Service and maintenance. Controls and devices. We bring to your attention the address and telephone directory of auto enterprises. A damaged magnetic starter switch must not be disassembled; it must be replaced. If the starter refuses to work, then perhaps the brushes are only jammed if. If the removed starter has strong signs of wear, for example, strongly retracted.

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Kattani 01 Jul 2011 19:18

Possible starter malfunctions.

Kattani 01 Jul 2011 19:19

Now directly to the repair (bulkhead) of the starter.

It is not difficult to remove it, the only problem may arise with unscrewing the terminal of the power wire. Better to spend time soaking, heating and other nut tricks than stomping around for a new retractor. It will not be difficult to fold the screw terminal together with the plastic of the insulator.
Photo of a disassembled starter.

Kattani 01 Jul 2011 19:23

Troubleshooting and selection of parts.

My starter had the number 0001108026 (027), according to VAG 035911023N. Judging by the Wood Auto catalog (link) there are starters of the same type, but with slightly different numbers:
0001108001, 0001108002, 0001108007, 0001108009, 0001108010, 0001108026, 0001108027, 0001108028, 0001108029, 0001108072, 0001108073, 0001108101, 0001108102. For all, the same power was indicated (though for some reason the number of 1 kW is not 1 kW) 9). I did not notice the differences in the used spare parts between them, so I did not understand what the difference was. These starter numbers are useful when selecting spare parts from the Cargo catalog, because I did not find my starter number there, but for modification 001, for example, they were present.

We measure the diameter of the collector. The minimum diameter is 31.2 mm. The manifold must be grinded evenly, without grooves.

ETKA knows only 2 bushings: front and rear. The other two were measured and matched to the Cargo catalog. The bushing in the planetary housing can be changed separately or together with the planetary housing (Cargo 131503). The body itself (together with the sleeve) was discovered purely by accident in the nearest car market for a ridiculous 200r.

The seller assured that there is no number for this part, tk. there is no such detail in ETKA. Later, studying the Cargo catalog, I understood where the legs grow from. Because I did not find traces and wear of teeth and cracks in the old case, then the bushing from the new case migrated to its native one. Bushing in the carrier

Let's move on to the electrical part.
A little more about the brush assembly. On sale there is both a complete brush unit (VAG 078 911 209, Bosch 1 004 336 403), and separately brushes (Bosch 1 004 320 113). Of course, you can save money and buy only brushes, but then you have to figure out how to fix their conclusions. In the factory, they are tack welded. Soldering them with a soldering iron is not permissible, because during start-up, the currents through them reach values ​​of several hundred amperes and such connections will simply fall off.
I would also like to say about the spare parts offered at ETKA. There is a starter repair kit (VAG 035 911 320 A, Bosch 1 007 010 039), appearance in the photo.

Contains a bunch of all sorts of rubber parts, some circlips and washers, some fork stops and felt washers. Felt washers are more or less useful, although it is quite possible to leave the old ones if you rinse them thoroughly. Washers and stoppers can be useful if relatives are lost during disassembly. From rubber parts, you can use a fork stop damper and an insulator for the positive rail of the brush assembly. Apparently a set for different types of generators, so there is such a hodgepodge. I bought it solely for educational purposes.

Kattani 01 Jul 2011 19:27

So, everything is defect that needs to be replaced. You can start assembling.
We start with the planetary. We insert the carrier into the body of the planetary and add a little grease to the teeth. The principle "the excess will come out by itself" is not applicable here, for the reason that in frost a large amount of lubricant can freeze, which will not have the best effect on the health of the planetary or, even worse, of the starter. I used SHRUS-4. We put in place the rear cover of the planetary gear, install the washer and the retaining ring.

The splines of the shaft, along which the bendix drives, are lubricated with a small amount of grease. We put the bendix on the shaft. Then we put on the bendix stop, with the cup up, and then pushes the retaining ring along the shaft to the groove.

Before putting the retaining ring on the shaft, check if there are any dents on its ends that could appear during removal. If necessary, remove them with a file. To snap the stop on the retaining ring, I used a simple adaptation of their two keys for 13.

General view of the assembled planetary with bendix.

It is convenient to press in the front and rear bushings with a homemade device, the design of which is clear from the photo.

The bushing is placed in the planetary housing by hand or using the device described above. Into the carrier through a suitable mandrel.
From the side of the collector on the shaft, we successively put on a metal washer

and two felt rings soaked in liquid lubricant.

Then we put the brush assembly on the collector.

The new unit has a boss that expands the brushes and makes it easy to put on the manifold. If an old brush assembly is used, then something similar can be made. Next, we insert this structure into the body from the back side, holding it by the shaft from the back side. We orient the brush assembly so that it coincides with its positive rail insulator with the cutout on the body. Cover the top with the back cover and fix the shaft with a retaining ring.

We stuff a little grease into the back cap and put it in place. We put the planetary in the bell, you can change the damper of the fork stop for a new one from the repair kit.

We connect the body with the bell, tighten with screws.

Before installing the solenoid relay (not shown), it should simply be cleaned, especially the armature. It is not necessary to lubricate, because in frost can freeze. There is also a moment with the thermal insulation of the retractor. According to ETKA, the heat shield was installed only on the MS engine. The screen itself is an ordinary thermo-sandwich: on 2 sides there is a heat-reflecting material, and between it there is something like felt. A piece of this insulation wraps around the body of the retractor and is secured to it with a suitable clamp. We connect the positive lead from the brush assembly to the corresponding retractor contact.
We check the operability by connecting the "-" battery to the starter case, and "+" to the retractor terminal, to which the flexible terminal from the brush assembly is screwed.

aleksas 01 Jul 2011 23:26

1. Mark the alignment of the casing and unit hanger (where applicable) relative to each other.

2. Unscrew the nuts, remove the end of the base plate (where present).

3. Remove the screws, remove the small end cap and gasket, remove the retaining ring, remove the gaskets. Note the exact number of shims as they determine shaft play.

4. Unscrew the tie bolts, remove the bearing housing.

5. Unscrew the nut, disconnect the wire in the traction relay

6. Note the position of the brush holder plate, remove the plate from the housing of the field winding and fittings.

7. Remove the three bolts, remove the traction relay from the drive side housing. Disconnect the traction relay from the control arm.

8. Remove the cover from the lever? control from the casing on the drive side.

9. On a 1.1 kW starter, remove the armature from the reversing gear assembly.

10. Remove the armature on a 0.95 kW starter, or the assembly of reversing gears on a 1.1 kW starter from the casing and disengage the control lever from the gear.

11. Move the retaining ring away from the retaining ring, remove the retaining ring, remove the retaining ring.

12. Remove the drive gear from the reversing mechanism or valve.

13. Clean all components, wipe dry, check their condition. Check the teeth of the drive gear, the correct operation of the freewheel, which should only rotate in one direction. If the shaft sleeves are worn, they can be removed with a soft metal drift and new sleeves installed. New bushings should be soaked in hot oil for about five minutes. Clean the switch with a rag. Small irregularities can be removed with sandpaper.On a 1.1 kW starter, it is better not to disassemble the reversing mechanism assembly, but to replace it entirely if it makes noise during operation.

14. Measure the length of the brushes. If the length is less than the data in the Specifications, replace the brush holder plate. To do this on a 0.95 kW starter, unsolder the copper braid next to the brush holder and solder it to the new holder.

15. Assembly is carried out upside-down. Place the new circlip onto the end of the shaft, the groove for the circlip must not be damaged. Scoring at the edges of the furrow should be removed with a fine file. When reassembling, apply sealant to the locations shown in Fig. 4.4 and 4.5.

There is an urgent need in the yard to change the starter (deceased) on an AUDI 100 typewriter with an ABK engine and an automatic transmission. How to do it correctly without consequences and how and where to turn it away.

As I understand it, ABK and AAD differ in injections (if not correct, correct)

I have AAD, though with a manual box. Twice I took off the starter near the house, albeit in the warm season. It is fastened with two bolts of 16. The upper one unscrewed from the engine compartment with an elongated head by 16, the lower one from under the car with a cap by 16 (he climbed under the car without jacking it up). Then you unscrew the positive wire mount from the engine, and take it out (starter) through the engine compartment. DO NOT FORGET to remove the terminal from the battery beforehand. On one of the cars, removing the starter almost ended in a fire, neglecting a simple rule

happy end is canceled. One day, the engine started normally, and the next, when starting, an extremely unpleasant rattle was heard.

And who made such a conclusion. And how was it checked.?

Of course I'm glad for you .. That the sleeve is new. But I asked who it was and how they checked it .. when they put it in place ..

I didn’t see it and now I don’t see it either .. how the starter got over .. how you fiddled with cables. I don't see it ..

That's why I'm asking what I think is necessary .. If you don't like my questions .. Then I'm sorry .. I'm done ..

Did you measure the voltage on the battery .. during start-up.? ... And also on the starter .. When starting .. measured.

Or do you think there are psychics here. Without your data We are not here ...

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Message number:#51 v.v.p. »16 Aug 2013, 12:16 •

Message number:#52 emaslyaev »16 Aug 2013, 14:15 •

Message number:#53 Svarscheg "August 16, 2013, 17:27 •

Message number:#54 emaslyaev »16 Aug 2013, 19:41 •

Message number:#55 v.v.p. »16 Aug 2013, 19:45 •

Message number:#56 emaslyaev »16 Aug 2013, 19:59 •

Message number:#57 Svarscheg "16 Aug 2013, 20:48 •

Message number:#58 emaslyaev »16 Aug 2013, 21:51 •

Message number:#59 v.v.p. »17 Aug 2013, 01:10 •

Message number:#60 Svarscheg "17 Aug 2013, 19:48 •

Message number:#61 BET »05 Oct 2013, 16:32 •

Message number:#62 SkRiP »05 Oct 2013, 16:46 •

OLD AUDIS NEVER DIE THEY JUST GET FASTER

Message number:#63 BET "05 Oct 2013, 17:26 •

Message number:#64 emaslyaev »05 Oct 2013, 18:39 •

Message number:#65 Ilgiz "October 07, 2013, 09:01 •

Message number:#66 Kattani »Oct 07, 2013, 09:26 am •

Message number:#67 Ilgiz "Oct 09, 2013, 12:49 pm •

Message number:#68 BET "09 Oct 2013, 19:52 •

Message number:#69 Svarscheg "09 October 2013, 20:00 •

Message number:#70 yuriy83 »09 Oct 2013, 21:07 •

Message number:#71 Kattani »09 Oct 2013, 22:13 •

Message number:#72 Ilgiz "October 10, 2013, 14:05 •

Message number:#73 BET "12 Oct 2013, 18:28 •

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Imagine a situation - early morning, you, determined to move mountains today, shaved and fragrant with eau de toilette, get behind the wheel, turn the key and ... Instead of the rumble of a powerful engine delighting your ears, silence in response! On your new girl (or not) Audi 100 starter does not work... You try to repeat the key manipulation over and over again, but all is unsuccessful. As a result, the day that started so well was completely ruined, not to mention the plans and the mood.

First of all, you need to try to calm down - you should not crawl under the hood in a fashionable suit, smearing dust and dirt there with a tie, convulsively fingering various wires in the hope that some simply fell off. In a few minutes, in most cases, it will not be possible to make a diagnosis, let alone correct the situation. A good solution in this case is to take a taxi and go on business, and then solve problems with your Audi 100. And best of all, if you yourself are not a master for repair and maintenance of generators and starters, entrust it to qualified specialists. But if you consider yourself such, then you can try to fix everything yourself.

So, analyze the situation - does the starter work at all. If it works, how cheerfully does it twist? If even the slightest attempts to crank the engine take place, then everything is not so scary - there is a high probability that the battery is simply discharged. It is easy to check this, you can navigate by the light of the dashboard lamps - during normal charging they burn quite brightly and do not go out when the starter is turned on. If the battery has run down and this is a surprise for you, then it will not be superfluous to check if you have left some device, backlight, etc. turned on. It is easy to fix this situation - you can ask for a “light” from another car, or use a starting device in Tver (if, of course, there is one nearby).

If the starter does not work at all, that is, you do not even hear the click of the traction relay after turning the key, then, for sure, it is out of order. The solution is simple - take a taxi or another car. But before that, it is advisable to check the terminals - it is possible that one of them is asleep or weakened, then it will not be difficult to solve the problem.

But if the starter works, turns quite cheerfully, but the Audi 100 engine ignores all attempts to start it, then the situation is more complicated - the fuel supply or ignition system is to blame.

The reasons that on Audi 100 starter does not workmaybe a lot. If you do not have sufficient experience, then it is better not even to try to figure it out on your own - you can only do harm. The most common causes of problems if you exclude a bad battery are:

1. Brushes hung or worn out.
2. The contacts are burnt - in this case, clicks of the solenoid relay will be heard, but the starter itself will not work.
3. The retractor relay is out of order - there will be no reaction at all to the turn of the ignition key.
4. The armature or rotor winding is broken.
5. The bendex has fallen into disrepair - the starter itself seems to be working, turning, but the flywheel of the Audi 100 engine does not rotate.

Obviously, all these problems can be eliminated only by removing the starter and taking it to a generator and starter repair workshop. Of course, if you just change the brushes or clean the burnt contacts, then you can ask your neighbor in the garage, the "craftsman" Petrovich, to fix it.

But if the reason that on Audi 100 starter does not work more serious, it is better to immediately go to a good car service, you should not trust the repair of an expensive car to non-specialists.

Starter components:
1. Magnetic starter. 2. Terminal 30 (battery connection) 3. Terminal 50 (to ignition system). 4. Drive gear. 5. Starter.

Location of the starter in the engine compartment
1. Terminal 50. 2. Terminal 30. 3. Cable from magnetic starter to starter. 4. Starter.

Starter check
To test the starter under AB voltage, you need to connect terminals 30 (large terminal) and 50 (small wire next to the large terminal) using a wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm2. If the starter is now working properly, check the wires. suitable for it If the starter does not turn on, it must be removed and checked.

An accurate check of the starter on a test bench is only possible in a workshop.

Removal and installation of a starter

- Disconnect the negative wire from the battery
- Remove the noise protection plate at the bottom of the engine compartment by loosening the quick release couplings.
- Raise and support the vehicle on the side where the starter is located.
- Disconnect the wires on the back of the starter from the traction relay. Unscrew the nuts and bolt of the sewn-on plate, unscrew the bolts (1.2 and 4) connecting the starter to the engine and the gearbox in accordance with the method of fastening the starter.
- Remove the starter (3)
- The starter is installed in the reverse order of removal. Connect the wires securely so that they do not loosen

Disassembly and assembly of the starter
As with the alternator, self-repairing the starter is not recommended. before installing the starter back to the Eta car, it is necessary to check the current consumption on the test bench. starter torque, power with and without load. Operating experience has shown that most starter malfunctions are caused by brushes.

For professional inspection and repairs, it is recommended to remove the starter and take it to a workshop. In doing so, you can also determine whether the fault of the brush starter is to blame.

If you need to replace the starter, you can use a remanufactured starter. The starting (retractor) relay can be replaced on a removed starter. After disconnecting the wire connection, unscrew the relay mounting bolts on the starter and remove the relay.

The information is for models 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 model year.

Updated: 2017-03-20

When repairing a starter on an Audi 80, car owners often stumble upon the fact that brushes that have worn out have led to a breakdown. Worn, stuck, or collapsed. But this is just one of the options that can be a reason for car repair.

The original starter is made in Germany, a reliable and high quality device. In the course of the correct operation of the Audi 80, the repair of the starter will not be necessary at all soon.

Basically, breakdowns appear sequentially, increasing in number. When the first symptoms of malfunctions are detected and the repair of the Audi 80 starter is carried out on time, it helps to prevent a complete replacement of the unit and guarantees subsequent stable service.

Prophylaxis is necessary in subsequent cases:

• The starter motor does not start when the ignition key is turned
• The device works, but the crankshaft rotates slowly, unable to get the required speed
• During start-up, the gear meshes with the flywheel. In such a situation, immediate repair is needed for the starter. We disassemble and replace unusable items.
• The device works, but the shaft itself is in its original position (does not rotate)
• The device rotates in conjunction with the flywheel when the engine is running.

Basically, it is necessary to repair the starter when the parts have served their time or there is no necessary isolation of the device from the external environment:

• Exposure to subzero temperatures
• Influence of a variety of fluids
• Ingress of dust or dirt.

As a result, the insulation in the starting device is destroyed, which can lead to a breakdown of the device drive.

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the wires that run from the battery to the starter, after the wiring from the ignition switch to the relay, it may have broken. It is worth trying to rearrange places with a similar relay or install a new one, if available. If the check shows that the wiring and relay are in good order, it is necessary to remove the starter and carry out diagnostics.

To remove the starter, you must immediately remove the mass from the battery, then disconnect the wiring from the starting device. Unscrew the two mounting bolts using a size 19 head.

Moving on to diagnosing and repairing the autostarter:

1. No clicks or one click. Bendix did not go out on the rod into the starter bell or went out and immediately jumps back. The shaft does not spin at all, or it cranks for a moment. The reason may be a burnt out winding of the solenoid relay.
2. In the case when, nevertheless, the shaft rotates, this means a breakdown of the HRV. The cost of this relay is around 500 rubles and you can change it yourself within 10 minutes.To do this, you need to unscrew the three screws holding the relays, the nut of the power cable, which leads to the middle of the starting device. We take out the old relay with the subsequent installation of the purchased serviceable one. We carry out the installation back to front. After assembly, it is necessary to check the operability: short the contact on the solenoid relay and the power contact. We install the starter housing to ground. A click should occur. The Bendix will pop out to the retaining ring. The shaft will start to rotate quickly and continuously.
3. HRV makes clicks, the motor does not work. In this case, you cannot do without disassembling the starter. This problem is in two cases:
   • Brushes in the brush assembly are burnt or worn out. Price around 500 r.
   • The anchor is out of order. The cost is slightly less than the price of the launcher itself.

Correct repair of the starter on the Audi 80. In parallel, the replacement of brushes and bushings is carried out, which guarantees a long service life of the device.