Starter gazelle business 4216 DIY repair

A starter on the Volga is a very reliable thing, and some kind of trouble does not happen often. As a rule, during operation, it does not require any attention to itself at all, but you and I know that anything can be broken, even if, as in a known case, it is pure hydraulics.

So, at the heart of the starter is a DC motor. At the front end of its shaft there is a sliding sleeve and a gear, which, at the moment of starting, meshes with the teeth of the engine flywheel. The movement of the clutch is provided by a solenoid relay located on the starter housing. The relay rod at the moment of starting moves and pulls the plug, which pushes the clutch with the gear to the position of engagement with the flywheel.

The traction relay coil has two windings.

• Retracting. It is connected when the key is moved to the "start" position. It provides movement of the relay rod. After the first winding is triggered, the rod moves and shifts the contact "penny", closing the contacts, including the starter motor and the second, holding the winding.
• Retaining. It is needed in order to keep the stem retracted until the key is in the "start" position.

Accordingly, all malfunctions are reduced either to problems with the retractor, or with the electric motor itself, or with the clutch.

As a rule, the starter refuses to start the car at the most inopportune moment and completely unexpectedly. That is, everything was fine yesterday, but today we turn the key to the “start” position, but it doesn’t turn ... or turns it somehow not as it should, or makes extraneous sounds. In any case, there is no need to wait for a miracle, it will not pass by itself. Let's try to find and fix the problem.

As a rule, undervoltage in the on-board network is to blame. So start by checking battery charge.

If everything is normal with the battery, and the voltage on it is 12 V or more, check the condition of the terminals. The most common cause is poor contact. Clean the terminals well from oxides, lubricate them with grease (lithol, grease, etc.) and secure well. Pulling the terminals too much is not worth it, since this will deform the battery terminals made of lead, and the wire terminals themselves, which are now being made from what is generally not clear.

Check body and engine for earth. To do this, simply select the resistance measurement mode on the multimeter and measure it between the negative terminal of the battery and the motor, and then between the terminal and some unpainted bolt on the body. Resistance should be close to zero. If not, inspect the negative lead to the engine and check the integrity of the "pigtail" connecting the engine and body. It is attached to the clutch bell.

• in the wiring;
• in the retractor;
• directly in the starter motor.

Let's start looking for a problem simple.

• Check the anti-theft systems. Perhaps they are joking at you.
• Perhaps you have a trite discharged battery.
• If there is a fuse for the starter circuit, check it for continuity.
• Let's check if the +12 V voltage appears at the control contact of the starter (this is a thin screw on the solenoid relay). If there is no voltage, then check the additional starter relay and the ignition switch.
• Ask an assistant to turn the key to the "start" position and listen. Does the starter make any sounds while doing this? Perhaps your solenoid relay stem wedges. It works, a click indicates this, but its movement is limited.

If the voltage comes to the control contact of the retractor relay, the mass is not broken, but the starter refuses to cooperate with you and does not twist, we do the following.

1. Be sure to remove the car from the gear and put it on the handbrake;
2. We translate the key to the "ignition" position;
3. We take a 17 wrench and bridge the power leads of the retractor with it.

If the starter spins briskly at the same time, then our problem is in the retractor relay itself. The easiest way is to simply replace it with a new one, but you can try to fix it.

Remove the starter and unscrew 3 screws (2 screws for ZMZ 406), retractor fastening. We unscrew the screws securing the contact group and study the state of the contact "nickle" and the contact pads of the bolts. Most likely, we will find strong burning on them. We clean the contacts and make their surface absolutely smooth and flat. We carry out a similar operation with a nickel. A heavily eaten penny can simply be turned over, if this has not yet been done before you.

Also, with a tester, we will check if there is a short circuit of the relay windings to the case and if there are any breaks in them. If everything is normal, put everything in the reverse order and try to start.

If the problem is not in the retractor, check the starter motor itself.

We remove it from the car and disassemble it. There is nothing particularly difficult here.

1. Unscrew and remove the retractor.
2. Remove the retractor rod.
3. Remove the starter rear cover by unscrewing the two screws securing it and removing the retaining half ring in the center.
4. Slide the motor stator together with the housing off the studs.

Now you need to carefully inspect the condition of the collector contact pads. If they are badly worn, you can try sanding them to a level surface.

We look at the wear of the brushes. We change them if necessary.

We check with a multimeter whether there are any short circuits of the windings on the case, and the absence of internal short circuits and breaks in the windings. If any, we carry the starter for repair or replace it with a new one. You can't do anything on your own.

Crackling or grinding noise when starting the engine

This sound occurs when the starter gear is not fully engaged with the flywheel rim teeth. There can be several reasons, and most of them can be easily eliminated.

• Loose starter to clutch bell. It happens. Just try to jiggle the starter by hand, if it does not fit tightly, tighten the nuts of its fastening to the required torque and try to start the engine. Most likely, the scary sounds will disappear.
• Insufficient movement of the starter sliding clutch. The gear just doesn't snap into place. Usually a shaft overgrown with mud is to blame. To restore performance, remove the starter from the car. Next, clean the shaft and lubricate it with good grease. Check the movement of the gear, there should be no binding.
• The fork moving the sliding clutch may be to blame. It happens that it breaks or deforms, although rarely. In both cases, the plug must be replaced.
• Flywheel crown eaten up. You can easily see this problem by removing the starter and simply looking into the hole in the clutch bell. There are several solutions to the problem: replacing the flywheel, replacing the crown (the old one is knocked down, and the new one is heated and hot pressed onto the flywheel), you can try to turn the old crown over (we heat the crown and press it off the flywheel, reheat it and press it with the back side).

The fastening of the retractor to the starter housing is loose. The result is incomplete gear movement. Tighten the fasteners.

A metallic ringing from the clutch bell when the engine is running and an occasional grinding noise when starting

Most likely, by removing the starter, you will find it. that his "beak" was chipped off. This happens for various reasons. The starter may have been poorly pulled to the bell or pulled skewed, there may be a casting defect, or there may have been excessive gear movement. It makes sense to weld the "beak" with argon in place only in the case of free access to the welding machine, in all other situations, it is better to replace it.But since you are unlikely to be able to find the "beak" separately, you will most likely have to change the starter assembly.

As a rule, this behavior indicates that you need to get to know the Bendix better.

For those who do not fully understand what it is, let us explain.

Bendix is ​​nothing more than a freewheel. Its meaning is that when the starter rotates, it rigidly connects the drive gear with the electric motor shaft, and at the moment when the engine starts and its speed increases, it begins to slip, preventing the internal combustion engine from rotating the starter motor. A similar thing is present in the rear wheel of a bicycle, it makes a characteristic chirping sound when coasting. That is, it is not at all the drive gear itself, but exactly the thing to which this gear is attached.

This part can be removed quite simply, but you will get very dirty. Although, if you removed the starter, you should not worry anymore.

1. We press the thrust bushing off the axle.
2. Pry on with a screwdriver and remove the snap ring.
3. Remove the bendix assembly with the gear.
4. We change to a new one and put everything in the reverse order.

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ArtemSok 27 Jun 2016

Good afternoon. Acquired Gazelle BUSINESS 2011 and started a month later.

The starter dies in the workshop, they say it cannot be repaired. I take a new one and put it in three days it burns out, I change it again for three days and it burns out, they did not change the money in the store. On the second day, both starters began to turn like a dead battery. I buy the third B.U with 402 the same thing. Respect in the repair, the bushing is rotated, I do it for two days and again the same thing. Ignition is set to standards. And the starter hits the brat

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Gazelle 2005 27 Jun 2016

see flywheel ring; teeth may already be heavily clogged.

To ensure reliable and trouble-free operation of the 422.3708 starter on the UMZ-4216 engine of Gazelle and Sable cars under operating conditions, it is necessary to keep it clean and follow the maintenance rules.

Repair and maintenance of the starter 422.3708 on the UMZ-4216 engine of Gazelle and Sable cars, disassembly, assembly and check of the starter.

Each time the vehicle is serviced, it is necessary:

- Check the tightness of the starter mounting studs 422.3708, retighten them if necessary.
- Strip the ends of the wires to the terminals of the starter and the storage battery and tighten their fastening.

1. Remove the starter from the engine.
2. Remove the cover from the manifold side after unscrewing the two screws and removing the cap, while removing the lock washer, adjusting washer and thrust washer.
3. Check the condition of the starter brush-collector assembly 422.3708. The working surface of the collector should be smooth and not have significant burns. In case of contamination or significant burns, wipe the collector with a cloth soaked in gasoline. If dirt or burn is not removed by wiping, clean the collector with a fine-grained sandpaper.

In case of significant burns in the collector that cannot be cleaned, grind the collector on the machine. The roughness of the surface should be no more than Rа 1.25. The collector bore diameter is not less than 39.4 mm.

- Check the brushes for free (without jamming) movement in the brush holders.
- Measure the height of the brushes.
- Replace brushes that are worn down to a height of less than 7 mm or have significant chips.
- Blow out the brush-collector assembly and the collector-side cover with compressed air.

4. Replace the manifold side cover.
5. Dismantle the flexible lead. Unscrew the screws securing the relay cover and remove it.
6. Check the status of the starter relay contact system:

- Clean the contact bolts and the contact plate in case of significant burnout with a sandpaper or file, removing irregularities caused by burnout, without disturbing the flatness of the contact surfaces of the copper bolts.

7. Replace the relay cover. Before installing the cover, it is necessary to dry the relay at a temperature of 25-70 degrees for at least 8 hours.

eight.Apply 12 Volts to the starter relay and measure the gap between the thrust washer on the armature shaft and the drive gear end. At the same time, the relay contacts should close and the gap should be 3-5 mm. To check the gap, use the gauge shown in the figure below. If the clearance does not correspond to the specified values, it is necessary to adjust it. The adjustment is carried out by turning the axis of the lever made in the form of an eccentric.

Caliber for checking the gap between the thrust washer on the armature shaft and the end of the starter drive gear 422.3708.

9. Check the ease of movement of the drive on the armature shaft. When the relay is turned on and off, the starter drive 422.3708 must move without jamming along the splines of the armature shaft.

10. Check the closure of the relay contacts in the starter. The starter relay should turn on and close the contacts when the gear rests on a gasket 15 - 0.43 mm thick. A sketch of the gasket is shown in the figure below.

11. Remove from the inner surfaces of the drive and the adjacent surface of the armature shaft contaminated, thickened grease with wear products from the crankcase, which significantly complicates the axial movement of the drive along the shaft splines when the gear is engaged with the flywheel ring gear. Lubricate the cleaned surfaces with a thin layer of CIATIM-221 or CIATIM-203, or CIATIM-201, then check the ease of movement of the drive along the armature shaft.

- Disassemble the starter.
- Clean the starter drive from dirt and replace the grease on the spline part of the shaft and the inner splines of the drive guide sleeve.
- Check the condition of the liners in the manifold side cover and the drive side cover in the starter. If the liners are worn out, replace them or replace the complete caps.

Dismantling of the starter 422.3708 must be carried out in the following sequence:

- Unscrew the nut and disconnect the terminal from the terminal bolt.
- Unscrew the screws securing the traction relay to the cover and remove the relay.
- Unscrew the two screws and remove the cover.
- Remove the lock washers, adjusting and thrust washers.
- Remove the cover.
- Remove the brushes from the brush holders and remove the traverse.
- Remove the housing.
- Unscrew the nut securing the lever axle, remove the lever.
- Remove the complete armature with drive from the cover.
- Pushing the thrust washer to the left, remove the locking ring and then the drive from the shaft.

Assemble starter 422.3708 in the reverse order of disassembly. After assembly, check the starter for contact and electrical parameters in accordance with the table of characteristics and points 8-10.

Inspection of the starter 422.3708 for electrical parameters must be carried out on a stand with a DC power supply and measuring instruments of an accuracy class not lower than: 0.5-1.0 - when measuring voltage, 1.5 - when measuring current.

Remove the starter (see Removing the starter from the engine).

Using the "13" key, unscrew the nut securing the power wire to the traction relay and disconnect the wire tip.

... or three screws (for the ZMZ-402 engine).

... and remove the core with the stem.

We unscrew the two screws securing the cover.

Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining half-ring.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the two fastening nuts ...

We move the body off the studs.

Use the "10" wrench to unscrew the nut ...

… And use a screwdriver to turn off the lever axis.

We remove the insulating tubes from the studs.

We take out the anchor from the front cover.

Leaning the anchor axis on a wooden block, knock down the thrust sleeve through the "13" spanner key.

Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the snap ring.

We remove the thrust sleeve from the anchor, ...

... complete drive ("bendix") and intermediate support.

We use an ohmmeter to check that the stator windings are not shorted to the housing.

Defects in the armature windings are determined visually - the places of short circuits or breakdowns to ground turn black.
The collector must be free of burn marks and strong wear.
Before assembling with compressed air, we remove coal dust from the body and the brush holder.
We assemble the starter in the reverse order, having lubricated the bushings and drive parts with a thin layer of CIATIM-201 grease or engine oil.
We put the thrust sleeve on the shaft so that the tapered groove faces the groove for the snap ring. Next, we put the spring ring in place, press the sleeve onto it with a hammer blow through the key "14" or press it with sliding pliers.
Install the starter in the reverse order to removal.

Everything is applicable to Gazelle cars and not only.

"Why doesn't the starter turn", "Something clicks under the hood and silence" or "Click and everything goes out" - such questions can often be seen in discussions on automotive forums. These are the most common signs of problems with the wiring, solenoid relay, bushings, or the starter motor itself. Let's take a look at a few of the main and most common causes of starter failure. We will assume that the engine itself, the crown (its teeth) are in good condition, and the battery, especially in the cold season, is charged and does not lose its charge due to a consumer unknown to the owner.

And so, when the key is turned, nothing happens or clicks are heard in the engine compartment (one or a series of them).

In most cases, the problem lies in poor contacts. Unfortunately, there are not one or two contacts that are important for the starter's operation. If your car is not new, the problem may be hidden in the power wires, the mass - in their terminals. It is important that there is reliable contact on ALL wire terminals. These wires can be perfectly called out by the tester, but when the starting current runs through them, they simply will not pass the power that is needed to start the starter.

The stranded power wire is simply crimped with a terminal and is not protected from external influences. Over time, the contact deteriorates at the crimp - dirt and water gets in from

roads - corrosion occurs. Often, with such wires, the starter does not turn the first time in wet weather, after rain. To quickly restore contact, sometimes you have to remove the terminal, tap the wire at the crimp on a hard surface. The best option for solving problems with wires is, of course, replacing them with new ones; or terminal stripping, stripping, tinning, re-crimping and soldering. Moreover, the places where the terminals are pressed through the washers with nuts (the mass of the cabin, engine, power plus on the retractor) are most often deformed and also have traces of corrosion - this is also an obstacle for good contact. It is advisable to straighten them, clean up and re-irradiate them. For me personally, the option with tinning and soldering gave the desired result. Another contact that can prevent the starter from starting is the contacts on the battery itself. They also need to be kept clean and dry. Therefore, many, fixing the wire on the battery terminal, cover this place with thick grease on top.

If we figured out the power and control relays, wires, then

there remained contacts in the retractor relay itself (pyataks) - copper plates in the relay case, through which a large current flows. These contacts can burn out over time, but this happens very rarely, and in order to check or clean the contacts, you will need to unsolder two winding leads and remove the relay cover. More often the relay itself fails - the winding, it burns out. In this case, only a replacement.

When the starter turns idle, the problem can be in several places:

• insufficient travel or wear of the fork moving the bendix;
• the bendix itself is not working properly - it is scrolled;
• for a gear starter with plastic elements in the planetary gear - wear of the teeth.

In the last two cases, a squeal will be heard, a crunching high speed of rotation of the starter shaft, without transferring rotation to the flywheel.

For gazelles working in the city for deliveries, with frequent starts, there is another problem - the wear of the starter bushings, in which they need to be replaced as soon as possible. The greater the wear, the greater the deflection and misalignment of the rotor in the housing.

Hence the low speed of rotation (the starter is sluggish, it turns badly), high current consumption; heavy, and in neglected cases, almost impossible, starting the engine.On a cold engine, it starts even more or less confidently, but after warming up, the feeling that the battery is completely discharged, and its recharging has practically no effect. The starter barely cranks the engine. The dashboard can go out completely at the moment the key is turned. They say that the starter takes on a lot - of course, when such a powerful engine, instead of rotating, practically stands still. When trying to start, the starter drains the voltage in the car's network so that the gazelle control unit (ecu) simply turns off - there is no spark - there is no control of the ignition coils. In this case, the supply of a plus from the battery to the yellow wire of any coil sometimes helps. In any case, if the starter bushings are worn out and the shaft is loose (there is a noticeable backlash), then they need to be replaced with new ones.

After replacing the bushings 3-4 times, the diameter of the shaft journal, which lies in the front cover of the starter, decreased so much that it began to dangle in the new bushing, then it was necessary either to restore the thickness of the shaft, or to select the bushing, or to change the entire starter. The latter was done, a Belarusian gear-type starter was installed. With whom a nuisance happened six months later ... Read about it in this article.

... use a screwdriver to turn the drive gear.

The gear should turn in one direction with the drive shaft, and in the other direction on the drive shaft. Otherwise, replace the drive with a new one.

Use a screwdriver to move the drive gear along the shaft.

The gear should move easily along the shaft without jamming. If the gear sticks to the shaft, the drive must be replaced.

To check the starter, we connect the wires for "lighting" the "positive" terminal of the battery with the upper contact bolt
volume of the traction relay, and "minus" - with the starter housing.

When carrying out this operation, care must be taken, since sparking is possible in the area of ​​the terminals short circuit. Do not short the screwdriver to ground while shorting the terminals.

In this case, the drive gear should move out and the starter motor will turn on. Otherwise, we check the electric motor and the starter traction relay.

To check the electric motor.

... we connect with wires the "positive" terminal of the storage battery with the lower contact bolt of the traction relay, and the "negative" terminal - with the starter housing.

In this case, the shaft of the electric motor must rotate. Otherwise, the motor is defective.

To check the traction relay, we connect with wires.

... The "positive" terminal of the storage battery with the control terminal of the traction relay, and the "minus" terminal - with the starter housing.

In this case, the drive gear should move out. If this does not happen, the traction relay is faulty. Install the starter in reverse order.

We will show you how to repair a starter in a Gazelle with your own hands. The starter was produced in Belarus. After watching the video, you will learn how to disassemble, repair and diagnose starter malfunctions. Most often, the problem is in the brush assembly, so we start disassembling from it. And the symptoms of a malfunction indicate this, since the retractors clink, but there is no response from the starter. We remove the back cover and look at the condition of the brushes, in our case they are in working order, but due to the ingress of dirt, water, one brush “did not come out”, it is necessary to clean and lubricate everything.

Video starter repair in Gazelle:

Disassemble the starter on your own only if you understand the operation of its mechanisms, you are sure that then you will be able to assemble everything correctly. It is not difficult to repair it, if you have the proper experience you can handle it, we recommend watching the video in full, including disassembly, maintenance and assembly. Lubricate where needed with clean engine oil and a disposable syringe.

The Ulyanovsk Motor Plant began to produce engines of increased power since 1997, the carburetor UMP 4215 became the first internal combustion engine with a cylinder diameter of 100 mm, and in 1998 Ulyanovsk residents developed a new 110 hp injection engine. sec., corresponding to Euro-2 standards.Gasoline engines UMZ 4216 in experimental batches began to be produced in 2003, and soon they were put into series.

Model 4216 is installed on GAZ vehicles; this power unit is used in Gazelle commercial vehicles. In 2008, the Ulyanovsk engine was improved, and it began to comply with Euro 3 standards, and since 2012 it has been brought to the Euro 4 standard. In 2013, hydraulic expansion joints began to be used on this engine, since 2014, the Ulyanovsk plant began assembling EvoTech motors volume of 2.7 liters, which is installed on commercial vehicles Gazelle Business and Gazelle Next.

The prototype of the engine of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant is the ZMZ-21 engine - it has essentially the same design:

• aluminum block of cylinders;
• upper arrangement of valves;
• gear drive of the gas distribution mechanism;
• aluminum rods;
• the lower location of the camshaft;
• two valves per cylinder.

Even the oil sump has a similar configuration - it is also steel, stamped, with recesses at the front and rear.

As in the ZMZ-21, on the Ulyanovsk engine, pistons with connecting rods are connected by means of "floating" piston pins - the pistons are seated on a "cold" one, copper (bronze) bushings are pressed into the upper connecting rod bushings.

On all UMP engines with a cylinder diameter of 92 mm, “wet” removable liners are installed in the cylinder block (BC). In a block with a piston diameter of 100 mm (models UMZ 4215, 4213 and 4216), the sleeves are pressed using special equipment, and during repairs it will not be possible to press them out, therefore, if the cylinders are significantly worn out, the BC needs to be replaced.

The 4216 engine consists of the following parts:

an aluminum cylinder block into which four cast iron liners are pressed;

The gas distribution mechanism (camshaft) is driven from the crankshaft through a pair of gears. The camshaft cams, through the tappets and rods, raise and lower the rocker arms, which in turn push the intake and exhaust valves. Due to the valves, the cylinders are filled with a fuel-air mixture, and the engine's operating cycle occurs.

On a Gazelle Business car, the UMZ 4216 engine is equipped with an electronic control system, which includes:

• control unit MIKAS;
• ignition module;
• high-voltage wires with lugs;
• sensors - throttle valve, to / shaft and p / shaft, absolute pressure, detonation;
• wiring;
• idle speed regulator;
• fuel injectors.

Motor 4216 - four-stroke, in-line four cylinders, 8-valve. The internal combustion engine is designed to run on AI-92 gasoline; it is allowed to use higher quality fuel, for example, AI-95 gasoline. The technical characteristics of the UMZ-42164 (Euro-4) modification engine are as follows:

• volume - 2890 cm³;
• diameter of standard pistons - 100 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 9.2;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• power - 107 liters. With.;
• the engine cooling system is liquid (antifreeze or antifreeze is poured in).

The block and cylinder head are cast from an aluminum alloy. The engine of the first completeness weighs 177 kg, the power unit itself is included in the complete set of the motor, and attachments are also installed on it:

• starter;
• generator;
• intake manifold (receiver);
• ignition module with wires and lugs;
• drive belts;
• water pump;
• crankshaft pulley;
• basket and clutch disc;
• ECM sensors.

According to the factory standards, the fuel consumption of the Gazelle with the Ulyanovsk ICE is 10 l / 100 km on the highway outside the city, in mixed mode it is 11 l / 100 km. In practice, more gasoline is usually consumed, a lot depends:

• from the congestion of the car;
• speed limit;
• the period of operation (in winter, more fuel is consumed to warm up the fuel).

The engine of the UMZ 42164-80 modification is equipped with hydraulic compensators; this engine is used in the Sobol Business and Gazelle Business commercial cars.The 42164-80 model differs little from the standard 4216 motor - this engine is equipped with other, special stays, in the upper part of which the compensators themselves are attached.

Crankshaft 4216 consists of four connecting rod and five main connecting rod journals, has diameters:

• root necks - 64 mm;
• connecting rod journals - 58 mm.

All journals are equipped with two steel-babbit liners, the factory tolerance for the crankshaft dimensions is 0.013 mm. During the repair of the Ulyanovsk engine, the main and connecting rod journals are measured with a micrometer - if they are worn more than 0.05 mm, the shaft is subject to mandatory grinding. The diameter of the piston pins is 25 mm, the pins are installed in the bronze bushings of the connecting rods. Over time, both the fingers themselves and the bushings can wear out; in the event of backlash in the connection, the parts must be replaced.

The crankshaft in the cylinder block is mounted on supports with covers, which are tightened with bolts with a certain effort. Each cover has its own place - they should not be confused in places, moreover, picked up from another BC. Also, the covers must be locked to the lock - if they are installed incorrectly, the crankshaft may not turn (it will be clamped), and even if the shaft turns, the engine will quickly fail.

The resource of the 4216 engine, declared by the manufacturer, is 250 thousand km, but often the engines fail ahead of schedule. Frequent ICE problems:

• leaking engine oil;
• increased oil burnout through the piston rings:
• knock of valves, which is sometimes difficult to eliminate;
• overheat;
• failure of various sensors.

Various breakdowns can occur prematurely for different reasons:

• the driver violates the operating conditions - the motor overheats due to overload;
• maintenance standards are not followed;
• the car is operated in difficult road conditions.

Unfortunately, defects are often found in UMP engines, but ZMZ motors are not insured against this either. If the 4216 engine troit (jerks), the cause of the malfunction may be both the engine itself and a breakdown in the ECM. To determine the cause of the defect, it is necessary to diagnose the internal combustion engine.

There are the most controversial reviews about the UMZ 4216 engine - some owners of Gazelles praise UAZ engines and believe that they:

Indeed, the UMZ 4216 engine is very simple, especially since it has significant similarities with the ZMZ-402 internal combustion engine. The design of the power unit is familiar to many drivers, and such an engine can be repaired almost in the field. Some difficulty for car owners is the electronic equipment of the motor - after all, the injector is somewhat more complicated than the carburetor device.

You can also hear extremely negative responses from the owners of Gazelles with UAZ engines:

• the engine is prone to overheating;
• sensors often fail, so the motor starts to triple and does not go;
• the engine consumes oil, it flows wherever possible.

Unfortunately, a lot of scrap comes from the Ulyanovsk plant, and basically those drivers who get a defective internal combustion engine complain about the Ulyanovsk motor. There are several typical factory "blunders" that are quite common on the UMP 4216:

• the intake manifold cracks and begins to suck in air;
• the pump does not provide the required oil pressure;
• the electromagnetic cooling clutch refuses to work, and the motor begins to overheat.

Drivers of such unsuccessful "Gazelles" note that the engine often has to be "refined with a file." It was also noticed that if the motor is completely sorted out with our own hands, breakdowns in it occur much less often, the main thing is to assemble the engine using original parts of good quality.

During the operation of the Gazelle with the UMZ 4216 engine, various breakdowns occur, one of the most common problems is engine overheating. If the cooling system "airs", antifreeze (antifreeze) starts to be thrown out of the expansion tank. As a result of overheating, it often breaks through the block head gasket - changing the PHBTs as a whole is not difficult, and often drivers make such repairs on their own.

But the problem in case of overheating is different - often from the high temperature on the pistons partitions burst, the piston rings "lie". To replace the pistons or rings, it is not necessary to remove the engine, it is enough just to throw off the block head and the oil pan.

UMP 4216 overhaul is necessary in cases when:

• worn or damaged cylinder liners;
• the crankshaft knocks (wears out);
• low oil pressure in the system, and replacing the oil pump does not give positive results.

Often the Ulyanovsk engine is overheated, and drivers take various measures to get rid of this unpleasant and dangerous phenomenon for the internal combustion engine. Many Gazelle owners install a three-row copper radiator instead of the standard aluminum one - copper cools antifreeze more efficiently. Another method to combat overheating is to install an electric cooling fan with a toggle switch located in the driver's cab. At the moment when the sensor arrow on the dashboard begins to show the critical temperature of the coolant, the driver forcibly turns on the fan, and the temperature regime returns to normal.

In the case of purchasing a Gazelle with an unsuccessful engine, car owners seek to get rid of the power unit, replacing it with an internal combustion engine of another model. Many different options can be considered for replacement, but most often the owners of commercial cars install ZMZ-405 engines, this particular engine is chosen for a number of reasons:

• The Zavolzhsky engine is not capricious - it “digests” Russian fuel well, it rarely breaks down;
• relatively imported power units (Cummins, Toyota, Nissan) ZMZ-405 is inexpensive;
• when installing ZMZ, a minimum of alterations are required.

Recently, the Cummins turbodiesel has been regularly installed on Gazelle Business cars, but owners of cars with UMP-4216 almost never consider this engine as a replacement:

• Cummins isn't cheap;
• The American engine is very sensitive to the quality of fuel, and if the car is filled with bad diesel fuel, Cummins can quickly fail.

The advantage of the ZMZ-405 (or 406) also lies in the fact that a lot of used engines are sold in the secondary market in normal, working condition, and their price is several times lower than a new internal combustion engine. True, when buying a used unit, there are no serious guarantees - you have to take the seller's word for it. But even if the 405 requires minor repairs (replacement of chains or piston rings), it is still much cheaper to purchase it together with the repair than to purchase an expensive imported engine. Another minus of the imported internal combustion engine is that if it was not serially installed on the Gazelle, it will have to be purchased together with the gearbox or be puzzled by the fit of the Gazel gearbox to the new engine.