Starter nissan example p11 DIY repair

NISSAN vehicles are equipped with different types of starters, for example, M70R, S114-800B, S13-305, S114-800A. S114-871 and different capacities. The vehicle can be equipped with a starter with direct transmission or with a reduction gear.

Withdrawal
1 Disconnect the ground wire (-) terminal from the negative post of the battery.

2 Disconnect the supply air duct

3 Disconnect the wires from terminals 50 and 30 of the starter.

4 Unscrew the starter mounting bolts (see illustration),

5 Disconnect the plug that connects the starter to the main wiring harness

6 Unscrew the bolts securing the exhaust manifold support bracket, disconnect it and remove the starter from under the vehicle.

Checking the starter without removing
7 Move the gear lever to neutral. Set the automatic transmission control lever to the "P" position.

The battery must be fully charged during this test.

9 Remove the starter and retest by reconnecting it to the battery. 8 The wires for starting the engine from the auxiliary battery can be used as the connecting wires from the battery to the starter.

If during this check the starter gear does not come forward, then remove the traction relay from the starter and replace it with a new one.

10 Disconnect the starter coil wire from the traction relay terminals and connect the auxiliary battery wires to it and the S terminal. If the gear of the traction relay does not come out, replace the traction relay.

This check should be carried out within no more than 10 seconds in order to prevent the winding from burning out.

11 Connect the auxiliary wires from the battery to the S terminal and to the starter housing.

12 Pull out the traction relay gear until it stops by hand. If, after releasing, the gear retracts, then there is a break in the winding and the traction relay must be replaced.

This check should also be carried out within no more than 10 seconds in order to prevent burnout of the winding.

The traction relay can be tested with an ohmmeter by connecting it to the S terminal and to the starter housing. If the ohmmeter does not register resistance, then the relay must be replaced.

13 Connect an ohmmeter to terminals S and M. If the ohmmeter does not register resistance, the relay must be replaced (see illustration).

14 Disassemble the starter, if necessary, clean its parts. The overrunning clutch and its gear can be wiped with a brush soaked in detergent solution and then wiped dry.

Do not clean starter parts with solvents.

15 Inspect the gear and make sure that its splines are not worn, and that the overrunning clutch rotates smoothly, without jamming and in only one direction. The coupling must not rotate in the opposite direction.

16 Inspect the manifold and, if necessary, sand it with the correct grit sandpaper while holding the armature in a vise.

17 Measure the diameter of the collector 1 with a vernier caliper 2 (see illustration). Depending on the type of starter, the minimum residual collector diameter should not be less than 28.8 - 35.5 mm. Otherwise, replace the anchor.

18 Check the armature for breakdown by connecting an ohmmeter to the two adjacent collector lamellas, as well as to the lamellae and the armature shaft (see illustration). If the ohmmeter registers resistance, then the armature must be replaced.

19 Check the brush holder with an ohmmeter for breakdown (see illustration). If the ohmmeter shows infinity, then the brush holder is normal. Replace the brush holder if it is deformed.

20 Check the length of the carbon brushes and, if necessary, replace them with new ones by soldering the connecting wires to them.

21 Assemble the starter and install it in the mounting location.

The information is relevant for models Nissan Primera P11 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 model year.

"It's scary to climb, like a dear thing"

expensive thing?? What are you delusional? 600 rubles the price of this bendix, I bought a switch here - a little crap with three wires for 7 pieces - this is an expensive thing.

There was a similar problem.
This can be either the bendix freezes due to dirt on the shaft, or the bendix itself dies, wear of the rollers in the bendix.
I changed the bendik, brushes, and bushings, the starter is oiling like a loose one.
It is not so difficult to remove it, the triangular bracket is unscrewed from below, it is not necessary to remove it, the air body is completely removed from above. filter, and the 2 starter bolts are unscrewed, then everything is from the bottom, to the retractor. relay 1 nut and 1 plug.

A few notes to inexperienced people:
1. The starter is never lubricated, there are copper-graphite bushings, it is not necessary to lubricate them, and a special BRAKE lubricant is smoothed into the bendix.
2. There are different brands / types of starters, they have different components, if the LUCAS starter components are expensive, and often it is not profitable to repair such a starter.

My advice is to remove the starter and take it to a company that repairs starters / generators, there are many such offices in large cities, they will do everything as expected. It is better to do it 1 time and forget about it, because it is not so easy to shoot it, more precisely, it is more difficult to put it, especially if you are 1 doing it.

If anyone needs the address of the office in the MSC for the repair of starters / generators, knock on the PM.

Congratulations! 😉
Hemorrhoids, yes, when you do it for the first time out of ignorance. I alone, unhurriedly, managed it in 3 hours. But my starter was already moved, so I just took off and put it on.
There were no problems with the positive wire, with the chip, yes, I fiddled a bit and for another 20 minutes I could not understand why the upper bolt was not unscrewed, it turned out that it was screwed on the other side and had to be unscrewed from under the hood.
In general, you should not climb into the retractor, you will not collect it later, tk. filled up.
There is no need to "make money" from above. You fasten the lower bolt and that's it, the starter fits into place and the upper bolt is easily tightened.
We have an analogue of the node from 700 rubles.

By the way, the starters were made for the chick from Mitsubishi and Hitachi. I had both and to be honest, hitachi are better. Everything was completely made of metal and the mechanism is simpler than Mitsubishi.

Here is my entry, if you're interested, read it
I wanted to make a record of the comparison and the difference between hitachi and mitsubishi, but even if it was necessary.

Duck had to first unscrew the contacts and remove the chips, and then unscrew the starter :-)))
I'm the same tall. You insert the starter (it holds itself), then you fasten the lower bolt and that's it, then you fasten the upper bolt.

Although you have an SR, I don’t know how the starter is, it may be more difficult. 🙂

Remove the ring gear of the planetary gear.

25. Inspect the brush assembly. Check the height of the brushes in the brush holder. If their height is 7 mm or less, replace the brush assembly with a new one. Check with an ohmmeter the insulated holders for a short circuit to the case. Resistance must go to infinity.

26. Inspect the rotor. There should be no damage (nicks, scoring) on ​​the gear and rotor shaft journals. The rotor manifold must be free of burn marks. Remove minor burns with a cloth soaked in gasoline and fine-grained sandpaper.

27. Check the rotor winding for short circuit with an ohmmeter. Resistance must go to infinity.

28. Check whether the armature of the starter traction relay moves easily, whether the contact bolts of the contact plate are closed (using an ohmmeter).

29. Check the drive clutch. The gear teeth should not be significantly worn. The gear should turn easily relative to the coupling hub in the direction of rotation of the rotor and should not turn in the opposite direction. If the gear teeth are worn or damaged, or the gear turns in both directions, replace the clutch.

30. There should be no cracks or traces of significant wear on the forks groove on the starter drive lever.

31. Assemble the starter in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following features:

- lubricate the rotor shaft gear with General Electric CG 321 silicon grease or similar;

During operation, the drive coupling does not need to be lubricated. However, it is necessary to clean it from dirt. Do not use agents to clean the drive that can flush out the grease in the drive coupling.

- lubricate the bearings (bushings) in which the starter rotor rotates with engine oil;

“Use pliers to install the stop ring;

Before installing the brush assembly on the rotor, spread the brushes and fix in any available way (for example, by inserting a head from a set of tools of a suitable diameter). When installing the brush assembly on the rotor, release the brushes by removing the installed head;

- before installing the traction relay, apply a thin layer of silicone sealant to the surface of the relay in contact with the starter cover on the drive side.

NISSAN vehicles are equipped with starters of different types, for example, M70R, S114-800B, S13-305, S114-800A, S114-871 and different powers (see illustrations 3.0, 3.0a, 3.0b). The vehicle can be equipped with a starter with direct transmission or with a reduction gear.

6 - rings to reduce the gear ratio

5 - overrunning clutch shaft stop

1 Disconnect the ground (-) wire terminal from the negative post of the battery.

2 Disconnect the supply air duct.

3 Disconnect the wires from terminals 50 and 30 of the starter.

4 Unscrew the starter mounting bolts (see illustration).

3.4 Unscrew the starter mounting bolts

5 Disconnect the plug that connects the starter to the main wiring harness

6 Unscrew the bolts securing the exhaust manifold support bracket, disconnect it and remove the starter from under the vehicle.

Checking the starter without removing

7 Move the gear lever to neutral. Set the automatic transmission control lever to the "P" position.

The battery must be fully charged during this test.

8 Briefly short-circuit the auxiliary wire between terminals M (thick (+) wire) and S (thin wire going to the ignition switch) of the starter. The starter gear should move forward and the starter itself should start. If this does not happen, remove the starter and check it again.

9 Remove the starter and retest by reconnecting it to the battery. As connecting wires from the battery to the starter, you can use the wires to start the engine from the auxiliary battery.

If during this check the starter gear does not come forward, then remove the traction relay from the starter and replace it with a new one.

10 Disconnect the starter coil wire from the M terminal of the traction relay and connect the auxiliary battery wires to it and the S terminal. If the gear of the traction relay does not come out, replace the traction relay.

Attention! This check should be carried out within no more than 10 seconds in order to prevent the winding from burning out.

11 Connect the auxiliary wires from the battery to the S terminal and to the starter housing.

12 Pull out the traction relay gear until it stops by hand. If, after releasing, the gear retracts, then there is a break in the winding and the traction relay must be replaced.

Attention! This check should also be carried out within no more than 10 seconds in order to prevent burnout of the winding.

Attention! The traction relay can be tested with an ohmmeter by connecting it to the S terminal and to the starter housing. If the ohmmeter does not register resistance, then the relay must be replaced.

13 Connect an ohmmeter to terminals S and M. If the ohmmeter does not register resistance, the relay must be replaced (see illustration).

14 Disassemble the starter, if necessary, clean its parts. The overrunning clutch and its gear can be wiped with a brush soaked in detergent solution and then wiped dry.

Attention! Do not clean starter parts with solvents.

15 Inspect the gear and make sure that its splines are not worn, and that the overrunning clutch rotates smoothly, without jamming and in only one direction. The coupling must not rotate in the opposite direction. Otherwise, the coupling must be replaced (see illustration).

3.15 Inspect the gear and make sure that its pins are not worn, and that the overrunning clutch rotates smoothly, without jamming and only in one direction

16 Inspect the manifold and, if necessary, grind it with 1 grit sandpaper, holding the anchor in a vise (see illustration).

3.16 Inspect the manifold and, if necessary, sand it with 1 grit sandpaper

17 Measure the diameter of the collector 1 with a vernier caliper 2 (see illustration). Depending on the type of starter, the minimum residual collector diameter should not be less than 28.8 - 35.5 mm. Otherwise, replace the anchor.

3.17 Measure the diameter of the collector 1 with a vernier caliper 2

18 Check the armature for breakdown by connecting an ohmmeter to the two adjacent "lamellas" of the collector, as well as to the lamellae and the armature shaft (see illustration). If the ohmmeter registers resistance, then the armature must be replaced.

3.18 Check the armature for breakdown by connecting an ohmmeter to two adjacent collector lamellas, as well as to the lamella and the armature shaft

19 Check the brush holder with an ohmmeter for breakdown (see illustration). If the ohmmeter shows infinity, then the brush holder is normal. Replace the brush holder if it is deformed.

3.19 Check the brush holder with an ohmmeter for breakdown

20 Check the length of the carbon brushes and, if necessary, replace them with new ones by soldering the connecting wires to them.

21 Assemble the starter and install it in the mounting location.

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We will start dismantling by removing the box with the air filter, it prevents us from getting to the starter mounting bolt.

Fold back the cover latches, unscrew the clamp, Unfasten the air flow meter connector

We unscrew the bolt that holds the box. I came across an injured car, and the mount is self-made, I think it does not differ much from my own

We remove everything that has been unscrewed, Now we can see the mounting bolt with a starter, unscrew it too

Now the car needs to be raised, well, or lowered into the pit, access to the starter is possible in the place indicated by the arrow. But from the beginning you need to turn the stretcher, it is no longer in the photo, it was unscrewed beforehand.

Disconnect the connector on the wire to the starter

We unscrew the power wire, we see it is indicated by the arrow, you do not need to unscrew the second nut.

Now we unscrew the second and last starter bolt

After you have pulled out the patient, we unscrew two screws and two long bolts from the back, break it in half, if there is a need to change the brushes, we tighten the bracket (pictured)

And we can pull out the brush assembly, everything is now available and you can crawl everywhere

In this article, we will look at the detailed process of disassembling and repairing a starter with our own hands.

First, a little theory.The starter motor is a four-pole, four-brush DC electric motor, the drive of which is connected to the flywheel ring gear. The starter is switched on by an electromagnetic traction relay. It is attached to the clutch housing and is protected from the heated exhaust pipe by a special shield.

This manual is essentially universal and will fit most Japanese cars.

1) Step one: removing the starter

First you need to remove the heat shield. Using the wrench, unscrew the bolt of the lower flap fastening, remove the hose from the air intake and unscrew the two nuts of the upper flap fastening. We remove the shield. Then we remove the starter itself. To do this, unscrew the two bolts of the upper fastening of the starter to the crankcase, then the lower bolt. We move the starter forward a little and disconnect the block from the traction relay (for convenience, before that, you can remove the coolant hose). We unscrew the nut that secures the wires from the traction relay to the battery, and remove the starter with an upward movement.

2) Step two: finding out the causes of the breakdown and eliminating them

1. Checking and replacing the relay We supply operating voltage to the removed starter. To do this, we give + 12V to the relay output, and we supply minus to the case, while the ohmmeter is connected to the contact bolts. If the relay is working properly, the freewheel will slide out into the window located on the front cover, and the bolts will close (watch the ohmmeter reading). If this does not happen, the relay must be replaced. We unscrew the three screws with a screwdriver and remove the relay. Next, we remove the rod with the spring from the relay housing and install the new relay in the reverse order.

2. Checking and replacing brushes Remove the cover from the starter by unscrewing two screws with a screwdriver. To remove the brushes, you need to disconnect the screw that secures the contact wires and squeeze the spring, after which we remove the brush. The height of the brush should be at least 12 mm - if the brushes are worn out, they should be replaced.

3. Checking the starter windings We connect the ohmmeter to the winding terminals (in turn) and check for a short circuit between the turns and on the case.

4. Checking the collector and windings Remove the retaining ring. Remove the washer from the axle. We unscrew the two tie bolts with a wrench. Disconnect the starter housing and remove the tie bolt insulation tubes from it. We check the external condition of the windings and the collector. The windings must be free of charring and breakdown marks. Minor marks on the collector are permissible, while it should be cleaned off its plates with fine sandpaper, but it is better to replace it with a new one.

5. Checking the armature winding Using an ohmmeter, we look for a short circuit on the armature windings and if we find it, we replace it.

6. Checking the gear and overrunning clutch Remove the washer from the anchor axis, unpin the lever axis and knock it out with a bit, remove the anchor together with the drive. Remove the clutch drive lever. Trying to rotate the gear - it should easily rotate in one direction and lock in the other. It should not be chipped or chipped. If a clutch or gear is faulty, they must be replaced together. To do this, you need to remove the retaining ring and remove the clutch together with the gear and replace it with new ones.

7. Assembling the starter Before assembling the starter, remove all dust from the housing and the brush holder, and cover all plastic surfaces with a special grease (for example, Litol). Bearings, rotor bushings, coupling hub, armature shaft splines should be lubricated with engine oil. After that, we assemble the starter in the reverse order of disassembly.

Ready. We disassembled, repaired and assembled the starter with our own efforts at home!

1 - front cover;
2 - lever;
3 - rotor;
4 - traction relay; 5 - stator with coils;
6 - brush holder with brushes;
7 - back cover;
8 - freewheel clutch.

Nissan Primera starter repair. Poorly twists.