The assembly process is carried out upside-down.
VIDEO
Repair or replacement of the starter is required when, when the ignition key is turned to the "engine start" position, the starter does not rotate or rotates with dips. It happens that the starter turns, but the engine does not. It is easy to check for a suspicious sound and lack of rotation of the alternator pulley.
To check the operation of the starter, we need:
A known good battery
Car cords with crocodiles
Wire brush or flat screwdriver
1) We reset the terminals "+" and "-" from the battery to the car. This is to avoid damaging the motor controller.
2) On all cars of the Samara family (VAZ 2113, 2114 and 2115) and Priora, as well as on cars of the Lada Kalina and Grant families with the old, "lever" gearbox, the starter is installed on the checkpoint next to the engine on the radiator side under the air filter.
In order to carry out the work, it is necessary to remove the air filter housing together with the inlet pipe (the procedure is described in detail in the article about changing the oil in the gearbox).
On "Kalina" and "Grant" with a cable checkpoint, the starter is also installed on the box, but on the side of the engine and behind it, closer to the passenger compartment. Getting and checking it without a lift is extremely inconvenient. Sometimes it is easier to remove the starter and check it separately.
3) Unscrew the conductive wire (the thickest wire that goes from the "+" terminal of the battery). It is screwed onto the upper stud of the solenoid relay with a 13-nut nut (the lower arrow points to the nut, the wire itself has been removed for clarity). Remove the control wire from the male plug on the solenoid relay (top arrow).
4) ALWAYS put the car in neutral.
5) We install a working battery next to the car (or use the installed one if we are 100% sure of it). We put the crocodile on the "-" terminal,
and we hook the second end to the starter body (by the bolt, the retractor body). First, we clean the junction with a metal brush for better contact.
6) We put the crocodile on the "+" terminal of the battery. We bring the other end to the “daddy” on the back of the solenoid relay.
7) When touched, the solenoid relay should work and a characteristic click will be heard. If no sounds are emitted, then check the mass again. If there is no click, then remove the mass from the body and install the crocodile "-" on the lower retractor bolt (shown by the arrow). Once again we bring the crocodile “+” to the “daddy” terminal.
If the retractor relay has tripped, then in 95% of cases the starter brushes are faulty. If it didn’t work, then feel free to buy a new one (not repaired, but removed without removing the starter). ATTENTION! Do not leave voltage on the solenoid relay for more than 5 seconds. This can damage both the relay and the battery.
8) Crocodile "-" is again thrown on the body. We bring the crocodile "+" to the lower bolt on the retractor relay:
In this case, the starter should turn and a characteristic hum will be heard. The working starter turns up to 11 thousand rpm. If the starter turns slowly, then, most likely (with a working battery and connection), the brush assembly is faulty or the armature is jammed. If the starter does not turn (when the retractor with the crocodile "-" on the body is triggered), then the matter is in the winding. If the starter turns properly and the retractor is working, then we check them together. ATTENTION! Do not leave voltage on the starter for more than 5 seconds. This could damage the starter or the battery.
9) For a general check, we throw the "+" terminal on the upper pin of the solenoid relay. And with a screwdriver or a key we bridge the crocodile "+" and "dad".
In this case, the starter should start working, and the engine should start spinning (determined by the alternator belt). If you can hear how the starter works, but at the same time there are various sharp sounds, crunching, then the matter is in the mechanical part (bendix or gearbox). If the engine rotates slowly, there may be several causes of the malfunction. In most cases, these are brushes, but there may also be bearings or bushings jammed. Analysis and search for defects is required.
For removal and repair of a starter we will need:
Flat screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Key "8"
Key "10"
Key "13"
Key "15"
Key "17"
Lithium grease (lithol, CV joint, grease)
Rags
Metal brush
Brake or carburetor cleaner
1) Unscrew the two starter mounting nuts. Nuts generally go on a turnkey basis "17", but they also come across "15". We remove it from the studs and take it out. It is more convenient to pull it out through the bottom.
2) We check the appearance. The toothed gear should be free of scoring, cracks and traces of heavy wear. If so, change the bendix. We inspect the condition of the sleeve at the end of the armature. If it bursts or cracks are observed on it, then it must be replaced. No traces of wear on the shaft are allowed.
3) We check the performance of the bendix. To do this, we rotate it with a screwdriver. It should rotate freely relative to the shaft in one direction only. If it turns in the opposite direction, then we change the bendix.
4) Unscrew the nut ("13") of the starter contact wire on the lower pin of the retractor relay.
5) Unscrew the retractor relay. Basically, it is screwed on "8" wrench bolts. But if the craftsmen have climbed before you, then it can be screwed onto the screws.
6) Remove the relay itself. We pull the anchor up from the bendix lever.
7) If the retractor relay worked properly, then externally we check the integrity of all elements (spring, body, armature).
8) Unscrew the two nuts ("10") of the tightening pins.
9) Unscrew the two screws securing the brush assembly and remove the cover. Often it "sticks" and can only be removed by prying it off with a screwdriver:
10) We pull off the stator with an armature and a brush assembly from the studs:
11) Remove the gear from the anchor:
12) Remove the anchor along with the brushes. Please note that a retaining ring may be installed on the anchor, on the gear side (not on this starter).
We inspect the general condition of the stater and covers with copper bushings. We clean them from dirt and old grease with a brake cleaner and rags.
13) Remove the brush assembly from the anchor. We remove the cardboard insulator. It should not show signs of damage. Since the insulator is installed next to the brush assembly, graphite dust accumulates on it, which remains after wear of the brushes. It must either be blown off or wiped off with a rag. If damaged, it is better to replace the insulator, but not all stores have it. Therefore, when dismantling and cleaning it, it is better to be careful.
14) We check the appearance of the brush assembly. In case of severe wear (less than 3.5 mm left from the edge of the brush to the copper wire), we change it. It makes no sense to disassemble further, since this unit is sold assembled. In this case, there is severe wear to the lead wires, which was the reason for the breakdown of one brush. The starter has worked for over 6 years. In this case, a breakdown can only be determined by the above check. The problem cannot be detected with a multimeter.
15) Check the status of the anchor. Check the absence of a short circuit of the winding on the shaft (bring the contacts as shown in the figure). It is better to use a test light, but a multimeter will work as well. If the winding is closed, then it is necessary to change the armature.
16) In case of scuffing or severe wear, we change the anchor. If there is a slight copper deposit on the trunnions or carbon deposits on the manifold, sand with a sandpaper. It is advisable to grind the collector before installing new brushes. It is best to use a grain of at least 180 grit. We clamp the shaft into a drill or screwdriver (it is better to clamp it from the side of the splines, where the gear was previously installed, so as not to damage the fitting size for the sleeve), and, rotating at low speeds, grind with a sandpaper.
17) We look at the state of the planetary gearbox. Before that, it is better to clean it of old grease with a rag and carburetor cleaner. No signs of wear should be visible on the teeth.
18) If the problem was not in this part of the unit, then you can make sure of its normal operation indiscriminately. We rinse the case with a cleaner and view the state visually.
19) We check the condition of all rubber seals. Change if necessary.
20) Holding the gearbox, move the bendix along the splines on the shaft. It should move freely and not rotate.
21) If it is necessary to disassemble, remove the reducer from the housing, applying force on the gear. The gearbox is held only by a tight fit to the body. To remove it, be sure to remove the two tie rods.
22) Remove the rubber seal from the bendix arm (in the photo above, I hold it with my hand).
23) Remove the thrust ring, gently knocking it towards the gearbox. It is best to do this by knocking it down with a hammer, attaching pliers on top.
24) Under it there will be a retaining ring, which is removed from the shaft by prying it with a screwdriver. After that, in the same direction, remove the thrust ring and bendix. Change the elements if necessary.
25) It makes no sense to disassemble Bedix, since it is sold assembled.
26) To reach the planetary gear housing, the circlip must be removed. Then we take out the shaft. Please note that there is a thrust ring on one side of the metal ring shown by the arrow, and a rubber seal on the other. The gears of the planetary gearbox are simply put on the axle without rings and stops.
27) Check the condition of all bushings and mounting pins. Light deposits on the shafts are removed with sandpaper.
28) Assembled in reverse order. It is better to assemble the brush unit on an anchor or on a 22-point head (otherwise it will be difficult to remove the brushes later):
29) To do this, we install the brushes in the nests without springs. We put the knot on the head or anchor. And, bending back the rear stopper, we insert the springs one by one:
30) The gearbox and bushings ALWAYS be lubricated with lithol grease. It is also better to lubricate the splines on the shaft at the bendix with the same grease.
31) First, we assemble the gearbox with the bendix into the housing. We fasten the studs. We set the anchor in the stater. We put the inner cover with a copper sleeve. Gear. We put the starter on the body studs. It will not be superfluous to lubricate the gear with the gearbox again with lithol grease. We put a cardboard insulator. Check that the cutout in the insulator matches the cutout on the stator. If the brushes were collected on the head, then we tightly contact it with the anchor and pull the brush assembly onto the anchor. Installing the back cover. We tighten 2 nuts and 2 bolts. We put on the anchor of the retractor relay on the bendix lever. Install the bendix. We put on the contact wire on the relay and tighten it with a nut.
32) We check the performance with the help of "crocodiles" according to the method described above.
33) Install the starter on the car.
Please note that not all brushes twist well. I changed the brushes in a plastic case (gray) - very weak. I tried brushes in an iron case, it turns normally.
Missing the point, why do you need a metal brush?
Everything is specific and on the topic, not something superfluous.
I have such a problem: the car is a VAZ 2114, the starter turns on a cold and warm car perfectly, when you drive the car for a long time and drown it, then after 5 minutes I can’t start, the starter clicks and all that can be?
Repair starter VAZ 2114 by their by hand
2114 by car. The load on the rotor is very high - the electromotive force has to overcome the resistance caused by the compression in the engine. And if the starter is in a bad technical condition, there is a short circuit in it, the consumption current increases. And the maximum is approximately 600-800 A (with a jammed rotor).
By car VAZ 2114 a starter can be repaired with your own hands in an hour, no more. Provided that all components are changed by new ones. In most cases, brushes fail. starter , they rub against the lamellae and wear out. As a result, the rotor does not move when voltage is applied to it. From time to time, sparks are generated even when the ignition key is turned. On new injection vehicles, including VAZ 2114 , a gear starter is installed. Its advantage is that its rotor spins at a higher speed, which makes it easier to start the motor.
Disassembling it actually does not differ from the procedures that are carried out with an ordinary starter. Another common failure is the destruction of the bronze bushings. By car VAZ 2114 they are posted:
One in the back cover starter , you will need a partial disassembly to replace it.
2nd - in the motor block. Its replacement will have to be carried out through a small window in the clutch housing.
If the bushing breaks, then there is no power at the motor armature. The minus from the battery is not transmitted, or the voltage decreases due to the appearance of resistance. The result is that the rotor spins much more slowly, and from the outside it may seem as if the battery is dead. These symptoms are typical not only for VAZ dozens, but also for cars of other series and even brands - "UAZ", "Chevrolet", etc.
The solenoid relay allows power to be supplied to the motor windings. But it has two functions, the second is to push the bendix so that its gear meshes with the teeth on the flywheel rim. Bendix is an element that transmits torque to the engine crankshaft from the rotor.
At its base there is an overrunning clutch and a gear, inside there are spiral splines. Frequent breakdown is the destruction of the overrunning clutch. Ultimately, the gear moves both clockwise and counterclockwise. Although it should spin freely in one direction.
And in fact, "incurable" breakdowns are complete or partial destruction of the rotor, stator, or their windings. These are such breakdowns in which repair turns out to be not much cheaper starter assembled.
VIDEO
we service, if we repair anything. we change in the gear starter VAZ 2108,09.
VIDEO
Starter repair from the car VAZ 2115. In this video, visible faults are inspected from the outside and discussed.
Disconnect the battery before starting work. From the tools you will need keys for "10" and "13", a screwdriver and pliers. On carburetor cars, for example, VAZ 2109 and similar, dismantling was easier, because there is no air filter housing on top. In the case of an injection vehicle, you will have to remove the rubber clips with a screwdriver. It is better to get three new ones in advance, because the older the car, the more likely it is to damage these clips.
This thing really saves 10-30% of gasoline. You simply install this device on the fuel supply hose and.
Release the air filter housing and move it to the side to avoid interference.
Use a key on "13" to unscrew the nut, which secures the positive power wire to the solenoid relay.
Disconnect the solenoid power wire (narrow reddish).
Use the key "13" to unscrew the housing fastening nuts starter to the clutch cover.
Pull the starter towards the left wheel and remove it from the hole.
When you remove the starter, you need to disassemble it, there is no other way to hold it repair ... To do this, you need to follow the following algorithm:
Unscrew the nut with the key on "13" and release the solenoid relay from the wire.
Use a Phillips or flathead screwdriver to unscrew the bolts that secure the relay.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the bolts from the back cover.
Use a flat screwdriver to remove the retaining ring. It is located on the rotor, at its back.
Unscrew the two nuts from the studs with a "10" wrench.
Unscrew the bolts that attach the wires from the windings to the brush holder.
Remove the entire brush assembly starter VAZ 2112, 2114 , and etc.
With a punch, remove the pin that secures the bendix fork.
Remove the rotor, now it and the stator are separate.
There is a retaining ring on the rotor, after removing it, you can replace the bendix.
Note that the new brushes are about 10 mm long.
If in your starter their length is less than 3.5 mm, then they must be changed. Perform the following manipulations:
Remove the bushing from the brush holder, press in a new one in its place.
You clean the rotor blades. To do this, you can use a thin knife or screwdriver.
Replace the bendix and plug as needed.
Inspect the solenoid relay, if necessary, replace it with a new one.
With an ohmmeter, ring out all the windings on the rotor, stator, retractor. If there is a short circuit, then replace the defective part.
Remove the brushes from the brush holder. After installing new ones, check how easy they move.There should be no jamming, as in this case the contact may be lost.
However, this is all that can be said about the repair. If you are planning a capital repair starter VAZ 2114 then follow the instructions above. There is nothing difficult, everything is doable, but you should be careful.
But you need to calculate whether the game is worth the candle. If the price is new starter is about 3000 rubles, and you need, for example, to change the stator or the rotor (expensive elements), and along with them a bunch of parts, wouldn't it be easier to replace it entirely? Save your time. But if you have a lot of it, then you can easily start repairing your own by hand , a penny will remain with you.
On a VAZ 2114 car, the starter can be repaired with your own hands in an hour, no more. Provided that all components are replaced with new ones. Most often, the starter brushes fail, they rub against the lamellas and wear out. As a result, the rotor does not move when voltage is applied to it. Sometimes even when the ignition key is turned, sparks appear. On new injection vehicles, including the VAZ 2114, a gear starter is installed. Its advantage is that its rotor rotates at a higher speed, which makes it easier to start the engine.
Disassembling it practically does not differ from the procedures that are carried out with a conventional starter. Another typical breakdown is the destruction of the bronze bushings. On a VAZ 2114 car they are located:
One in the rear starter cover, will require partial disassembly to replace it.
The second is in the engine block. Its replacement will have to be carried out through a small window in the clutch housing.
If the bushing breaks, then there is no power at the motor armature. The minus from the battery is not transmitted, or the voltage is reduced due to the appearance of resistance. The result is that the rotor rotates much more slowly, and from the side it may seem as if the battery has run down. These symptoms are typical not only for VAZ dozens, but also for cars of other series and even brands - "UAZ", "Chevrolet", etc.
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The solenoid relay enables the supply of power to the motor windings. But it has two functions, the second is to extend the bendix so that its gear meshes with the teeth on the flywheel rim. Bendix is an element that transfers torque to the engine crankshaft from the rotor.
It is based on an overrunning clutch and gear, inside the spiral splines. Frequent breakdown is the destruction of the overrunning clutch. As a result, the gear moves both clockwise and counterclockwise. Although it should rotate freely in one direction.
And practically "incurable" breakdowns are complete or partial destruction of the rotor, stator, or their windings. These are such breakdowns in which repair is not much cheaper than the entire starter assembly.
Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting work. From the tools you need keys for "10" and "13", a screwdriver and pliers. On carburetor cars, for example, VAZ 2109 and the like, dismantling was easier, since there is no air filter housing on top. In the case of an injection car, you will have to remove the rubber clips with a screwdriver. It is advisable to purchase three new ones in advance, since the older the car, the more likely it is to damage these clips.
Loosen the air filter housing and move it to the side to avoid interference.
Using the key "13", unscrew the nut, which secures the positive power wire to the solenoid relay.
Disconnect the solenoid power wire (thin red).
Use the key "13" to unscrew the nuts securing the starter housing to the clutch cover.
Pull the starter towards the left wheel and remove it from the hole.
When you remove the starter, it is necessary to disassemble it, otherwise it will not be repaired. To do this, you need to follow the following algorithm:
Unscrew the nut with the key on "13" and release the solenoid relay from the wire.
Use a Phillips or flathead screwdriver to unscrew the bolts that secure the relay.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the bolts from the back cover.
Use a flat screwdriver to remove the retaining ring. It is located on the rotor, at its back.
Unscrew the two nuts from the studs with a "10" wrench.
Unscrew the bolts that attach the wires from the windings to the brush holder.
Remove the entire brush assembly of the starter VAZ 2112, 2114, etc.
With a punch, remove the pin that secures the bendix fork.
Remove the rotor, now it and the stator are separate.
There is a retaining ring on the rotor, after removing it, you can replace the bendix.
Note that the new brushes are about 10 mm long.
If in your starter their length is less than 3.5 mm, then they must be changed. Perform the following manipulations:
Remove the bushing from the brush holder, press in a new one in its place.
You clean the rotor blades. To do this, you can use a thin knife or screwdriver.
Replace the bendix and plug as needed.
Inspect the solenoid relay, if necessary, replace it with a new one.
With an ohmmeter, ring out all the windings on the rotor, stator, retractor. If there is a short circuit, then replace the defective part.
Remove the brushes from the brush holder. After installing new ones, check how easy they move. There should be no jamming, as in this case the contact may be lost.
However, this is all that can be said about the repair. If you are planning a major overhaul of the VAZ 2114 starter, then follow the instructions above. There is nothing difficult, everything is doable, but you should be careful.
Video (click to play).
But you need to calculate whether the game is worth the candle. If the price of a new starter is about 3000 rubles, and you need, for example, to change the stator or the rotor (expensive elements), and with them a bunch of parts, then wouldn't it be easier to replace it entirely? Save your time. But if you have a lot of it, then you can easily do the repair yourself with your own hands, a penny will remain with you.
