DIY cylinder head repair stand

In detail: a stand for repairing the cylinder head with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Name: Alexey

Weekend design.

I rented a stand for repairs, but I had to give it away, the owner needed it. Urgently made myself the same. Costs / expenses: 900 rubles for a square tube 60x60, electrodes, a circle for a grinder. I will fasten the wheels after painting. The last picture is the original.

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        Name: Alexey
        
        Fastened to the gearbox bell mounting holes. So as not to interfere with the flywheel, there are spacer tubes.
        
        Square plate - a piece of channel 12 mm thick, racks for mounting the engine - a square bar 20x20. Hardened bolts from some kind of car, bought in auto parts. The grooves in the slab were first drilled at the ends, the middle was cut out with a grinder (this is faster than milling). To the lower frame, the corner is vert. the stand is attached with 4 bolts, as on the original.
        
        Video (click to play).
        
        The design is repeatable at home without any major equipment. Welding and grinder
        
        Let's start by defining the concepts. The cylinder block of a modern car is the basis of the engine, on which the rest of the engine components are installed: cylinders, crankshaft, oil pan, cylinder head.
        
        It is precisely the malfunctions and repairs of the cylinder head that are of interest to us. Is it possible to repair the cylinder head with your own hands in a garage-home? And craftsmen answer unequivocally - yes, repairing the cylinder head with your own hands is possible.
        
        Let's start by clarifying that repairing a cylinder head is a complicated operation and will require from you: a little bit of understanding of the block device, the presence of a special locksmith tool and the ability to own it.
        
        Basic tools required for cylinder head repair
        
        Mandrel for pressing in valve stem seals.
        
        Micrometer for measuring valves and guide sleeves.
        
        Reamer for unrolling new bushings.
        
        Mandrel for pressing out bushings.
        
        Mandrel for pressing bushings.
        
        Devices for drying valve springs.
        
        Set of countersinks for restoration of valve seats.
        
        Electric hotplate for heating the cylinder head during troubleshooting and before pressing the bushings.
        
        Do not forget about the necessary spare parts and tags
        
        As a rule, almost any repair of a cylinder head requires its dismantling.Exceptions are, for example, replacement of valve stem seals. Therefore, before starting to dismantle the cylinder head, think about purchasing the necessary set of spare parts.
        
        Today's market provides Head Sets (or, in simple terms, upper sets), which include a cylinder head gasket and all the oil seals and gaskets located above the main gasket.
        
        Well, the tool and the minimum kit are ready, we start troubleshooting the cylinder head.
        
        Before dismantling, be sure to check the relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft according to the marks. Up to the point that we put additional marks on our own.
        
        For specific car models, the technology for dismantling the cylinder head is described in the manuals. But the peculiarities of some operations are worth recalling.
        
        We loosen the head mounting bolts from the middle by 0.5-1 turn, alternately. The bolts with internal slots must first be cleaned of carbon deposits, otherwise a loosely inserted key threatens to break off and problems during dismantling;
        
        when dismantling the cylinder head, if there is no connection diagram for all kinds of vacuum tubes, then you need to sketch this diagram yourself, having previously applied the appropriate marks.
        
        When removing the valve springs, use dryers, not the “strong hammer” principle.
        
        Cylinder head condition monitoring
        
        Basically, there are not many basic parameters in the cylinder head that need to be checked before you start repairing the cylinder head. So let's start looking for typical cylinder head malfunctions.
        
        The lower plane of the cylinder head... It is checked using a straight edge and a set of probes. The ruler is placed along the diagonals of the head on a plane and the thickness of the gap is determined using a feeler gauge. If the clearance is more than the maximum allowable clearance of 0.05-0.06 mm, then grinding of the cylinder head is required.
        
        Worn camshaft journal journals and bearings... All diameters are measured with a micrometer and compared with the maximum permissible values for a particular engine model. Based on the measurement results, a decision is made on the type of repair or replacement of parts. Do not forget to visually assess the external condition of the surfaces. They should not have obvious signs of mechanical damage: scratches, chips, scuffs, grooves, etc.
        
        Wear monitoring of valve stems and bushings... It is made with a micrometer at several control points of the rod around the circumference. The valve is changed if the difference in diameter exceeds the maximum permissible parameters specified by the manufacturer.
        
        If you do not have a device such as a bore gauge to determine the wear of the guide bushings, then it can be determined by the valve play (new) in the bushing. As a rule, bushings are replaced with new ones.
        
        Wear of such parts, like: saddles, levers, rocker arms, cams are determined visually. If the chamfer on the valve is "failed", but the rod is in order, then it is processed, and the valve can be reused.
        
        Other cylinder head defects can also be identified visually. The presence of burrs and serifs on the surface of the block head is eliminated by grinding the cylinder head to eliminate the leaky connection between the cylinder head and the block itself.
        
        Thus, we carry out the repair of the cylinder head simultaneously with the troubleshooting, as they say, as soon as troubles arrive.
        
        Good luck with DIY cylinder head repairs.
        
        Software: Compass v13
        
        Date: 2013-03-29
        
        Views: 19 230
        
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        Composition: Technical and economic indicators - 1 sheet, Schedule rem. cycle - 1 sheet, Branch plan - 1 sheet, Repair drawing - 1 sheet, Technocards - 1 sheet, Stand (VO) - 2 sheets, Detailing (cover, bottom, fork, base, piston, rod), Technical and economic indicators - 1 sheet, specification for VO, PZ
        
        Composition: PZ, Stand (SB), Carrying plate (BO), Base (BO), Detailing (stand, pin, plate and guide support)
        
        Composition: Stand (VO), Detailing, Engine compartment plan, Engine, Repair scheme
        
        Includes: Assembly drawing 2 sheets, Specification
        
        Date: 2013-03-29
        
        Views: 19 230
        
        260
        Add to favorites
        Leave a comment, a review of the work, a complaint (only specific criticism) or just thank the author.
        
        The stand is designed for maintenance and repair of cylinder heads for passenger cars. To mount all cylinder heads on the stand, except for the head of the Moskvich car, the intake pipe and exhaust manifold studs are used.For attaching the head of the Moskvich car block, only the intake pipe studs are used.
        
        A stand for repairing cylinder heads, drying out valves, removing crackers and removing valve springs on the stand, monitoring gaps in the sleeve-valve connection.
        
        The cylinder head repair stand consists of three assemblies: a base, a rotary part and a slider with a bar. The latter are not shown in the figure. The base of the stand includes a stand and set screws.
        
        We install the rotary part of the stand with trunnions in the grooves of the posts. We fix the rotary part in the required position with locking screws. The main and most difficult part of the turntable is the carrier plate. In the figure below, in order not to get confused in the holes and grooves, their markings are shown separately for each of the four cylinder heads.
        
        When welding the pivot piece, pay attention to the location of the carrier plate. The easiest way to navigate is the 60 mm wide groove (see markings) for Moskvich cars. The side of the carrier plate shown in the second figure is not visible in the first figure.
        
        Nuts are used to secure the cylinder heads to the carrier plate. In order to quickly find "your" holes in the carrier plate for each head, it is better to knock out or apply letters at the central holes. For example, if a VAZ Samara head is installed, then with the central pin you get into the hole with the letter "C", "M" - Moskvich, "B" - Volga, etc.
        
        Drying valves, removing crackers and removing valve springs on a stand for repairing cylinder heads.
        
        A slider with a rod is designed to dry out valves or to extract crackers and remove valve springs. The slider moves along the guide. The bar can move in the slider. The bar is fixed in the slider with a locking screw. A swivel nut with a screw is installed at the end of the rod. The swivel nut is attached to the rod with a nut and an axle.
        
        Locking the swivel nut in the desired position is carried out with a screw. By moving the slider along the guide bar in the slider and turning the nut, the screw is installed coaxially with the corresponding valve. Compression of valve springs and release of crackers is carried out with a screw through a desiccant. Hold the valve with your hand if necessary.
        
        We make two rods - 300 and 405 mm long. The long rod is used only for drying the exhaust valves of the cylinder head of the UZAM engine. In all other cases, it is more convenient to work with a short barbell.
        
        Usually, when the valves dry out, the spring support plates are separated from the crackers, as noted above, while holding the valve by hand. But there are also known cases when crackers were "welded" to plates. When drying the valves on the stand, in such cases, the valve springs are compressed and, placing a rag under the valve, they strike a sharp blow through the soft metal spacer in the center of the plate.
        
        It is very difficult to measure clearance A in the sleeve-valve connection. But indirectly, by measuring the movement of the valve disc Dm, it is much easier. Calculation of the relationship between the clearance D and the displacement Dm (from the middle position of the valve to the extreme) will give the dependence
        
        2.1. A complete movement from one extreme position to the other would be a double constraint.
        
        With the maximum allowable clearance A equal to 0.15 mm, the movements in the bushing-valve connections must be within:
        
        - VAZ cars: 0.022-0.055 mm.
        - Moskvich-21412 car: 0.021-0.053 mm.
        - Cars GAZ Volga: 0.050-097 mm.
        
        You can measure the gaps on the cylinder head bench using a special tool. Its individual nodes are shown below.
        
        If you make the base shown in the last figure, then the parts of the fixture can be used separately from the stand for repairing cylinder heads, like an indicator stand.
        
        Based on the book "Accessories for car repair".
        Ross Tweg.
        
        Surely every car owner has heard about engine repair stands.Below we will consider what it is, what characteristics does such a device have, and, of course, is a home-made option suitable?
        
        Of course, we all want our vehicle to serve us for a long time and at the same time to be in excellent working order all the time. However, this only happens in fairy tales, and in practice even new cars taken from brand showrooms need to be repaired within a few years. And what can we say when the owner does not spare his "iron horse"? In general, many factors contribute to the failure or incorrect operation of one of the main parts of an auto - engine.
        
        So, let's look at the main mistakes that lead to such dire consequences. As already mentioned, incorrect operation of the vehicle is reflected in the most negative way, for example, the use of unsuitable fuel or low-quality technical fluids. Untimely oil and timing belt change, constant overload of the car will also negatively affect. Even disastrous will be the neglect of the engine's need for warming up in the cold season. And what can we say about malfunctions after mechanical impact due to an accident?
        
        But, like all fixtures, such a stand also needs good care. Therefore, be sure to carry out a visual inspection to search for defects, and if there are any, then the operation should be postponed. Before each use, check whether all fasteners are securely fixed, if not, then make a constriction. And of course, keep it only in a dry and clean place, remove all debris after each use, and lubricate all moving parts regularly. Only with proper operation, the stand, even a homemade one, will serve for a long time, reliably and will pay off if you are going to become a minder.
        
        The next criterion is the installation of the load. Before repairing the engine, it is necessary to securely fix it strictly in the center, while acting with extreme caution and accuracy. Remember, even your life can depend on the reliability of the fastening. And, of course, if you purchased such a stand in a store, then you do not need to make any adjustments to its design, trust the professional developers.
        
        Thanks to the holes on the channels, it becomes possible to mount motors of various sizes through adapter brackets.
        
        The use of a manual hoist, which moves on beams, makes it possible not to construct a lifting mechanism above the stand, it is enough just to install it on the wheels, of course, they must be quite powerful. So it will be possible to simply roll the defective part to any place, and if this unit is not used, then it is also very easy to remove it to the far corner.
        
        Quite often, repair work also involves flushing the engine, and keep in mind that this unit accumulates an incredible amount of dirt, and, naturally, in order not to deliver it across the garage floor, a pallet should be placed at the bottom of the stand. In this case, a fine mesh should be put on top of it, because the strong pressure of the jet can knock some small part off the engine and it will be much easier to detect it on the mesh than at the bottom of the pallet. In addition, you can put the elements of the disassembled unit on it and rinse them.
        
        Administrator
        
        23,452 posts
        
        Name: Alexey
        
        Weekend design.
        
        I rented a stand for repairs, but I had to give it away, the owner needed it. Urgently made myself the same. Costs / expenses: 900 rubles for a square tube 60x60, electrodes, a circle for a grinder. I will fasten the wheels after painting. The last picture is the original.
        
        Members
        
        144 posts
        
        City: Yaroslavl
        
        Name: Alexey.
        
        Administrator
        
        23,452 posts
        
        Name: Alexey
        
        Bolts - master-master 🙂 As it is more convenient, I like welding more.
        Retainer - in the outer tube one hole on top, in the inner tube - 8 holes under 45 degrees.
        
        If you make the stand higher, then you can put spacers on the outer legs.
        Today I conducted an experiment. I secured the engine at the stand with a crane and added all my weight (96 kg.). The test bench passed the test.
        
        admin (Jun 4 2006, 22:29) wrote:
        Bolts - master-master As it is more convenient, I like welding more.
        Retainer - in the outer tube one hole on top, in the inner tube - 8 holes under 45 degrees.
        
        If you make the stand higher, then you can put spacers on the outer legs.
        Today I conducted an experiment. I secured the engine at the stand with a crane and added all my weight (96 kg.). The test bench passed the test.
        
        Administrator
        
        23,452 posts
        
        Name: Alexey
        
        desti (May 21 2007, 00:16) wrote:
        So at least a painted stand, then?
        And what kind of motor is this, seemingly all of bronze?
        Like painted with bronze paint, fashionable?
        
        I wish the motor and the stand a greater MTO!
        )))
        
        Administrator
        
        23,452 posts
        
        Name: Alexey
        
        I didn’t paint, I don’t have a repair trowel to attract clients with beauty
        
        Motor from Porsche 924, remanufactured.
        
        Members
        
        461 posts
        
        Moscow city
        
        Administrator
        
        23,452 posts
        
        Name: Alexey
        
        Fastened to the gearbox bell mounting holes. So as not to interfere with the flywheel, there are spacer tubes.
        
        Square plate - a piece of channel 12 mm thick, racks for mounting the engine - a square bar 20x20. Hardened bolts from some kind of car, bought in auto parts. The grooves in the slab were first drilled at the ends, the middle was cut out with a grinder (this is faster than milling). To the lower frame, the corner is vert. the stand is attached with 4 bolts, as on the original.
        
        The design is repeatable at home without any major equipment. Welding and grinder
        
        DIY cylinder head repair stand
        Good time everyone! This is again the workshop "simple" and I, Alexander
        I will build a progressive grill spit!
        
        But seriously, I decided to make a stand for repairing and checking the cylinder head
        
        Hope it was helpful to someone! All goodness and increased productivity!
        Subscribe to the blog! in front there are a lot of interesting accessories, equipment for the stand, for example (antiuletin of a crouton), there are also plans to make a bed for quick drying, and a lot of useful things! Stand tilter for DIY engine repair. part 2. UAZ / GAZEL - Repair of the UMZ 421 engine - Part 3 - Replacing the camshaft bushings. 4.2.4. Dryer for valves without cylinder head removal. Slip-on slip for repairing an internal combustion engine. Repairing the cylinder head in the garage in one cold autumn evening. Homemade valve decanter from pipe trimming in 5 minutes FAW 1041. Cylinder head pressure testing. Blowing and finishing the cylinder head 2. Ideas for a garage - arrangement of a storage system and a workplace. Competent grinding of valves at Subaru Outback 2000. stand for cylinder head repair. Mercedes cylinder head repair. Dryer - do-it-yourself dryer. Stand for cylinder head disassembly. From the old drawing board. BMW E12V12 project Part 17 Cylinder head repair stand [PVS] [FullHD].
        
        DIY cylinder head repair stand
        Good time everyone! This is again the workshop "simple" and I, Alexander
        I will build a progressive grill spit!
        
        But seriously, I decided to make a stand for repairing and checking the cylinder head
        
        Video (click to play).
        
        Hope it was helpful to someone! All goodness and increased productivity!
        Subscribe to the blog! in front there are a lot of interesting accessories, equipment for the stand, for example (antiuletin of a crouton), there are also plans to make a bed for quick drying, and a lot of useful things!
        
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