DIY generator repair stand

Well, I'll tell you right away - to make such a stand at home is either very difficult or simply unrealistic. In short, I did not make any stand
But the idea was interesting, or so it seemed to me. Well, further in order:
I thought, why not take a set of tools, a head for 24, a drill and unscrew the generator, thereby saving myself from unnecessary installation work on the machine. In theory, everything seemed simple.

Took my toolbox

Everything is spinning super, cool, everything is kind of good ... but then I understand that I'm messing up somewhere in full, I call Mvirgo, tell me what and how, he tells me something like “you moron, without +12 on the rotor excitation windings, he will not work. at the start, +12 is supplied through the lamp from the instrument panel. " I pick up the book and figure out that yes ... I was.
+12 are fed through this connector

Maybe especially keen visitors saw that in the last article the generator was a little strange. I noticed it right away, but decided not to write about it, as there were some misunderstandings.
Now there are pictures of two diode bridges.

Here are the regulators themselves. I found as many as 3 different pieces

After checking their work, I realized that 844.3702 is not working, 778.3702 is working, but somehow dumb .. I did not like it. But I liked 55.3702. I checked them by putting +12 on the contacts and looking at the voltage on the brushes.

In general, I assembled a new generator. The diode bridge rang, everything seemed to be alive.
I will try it today, I hope everything is fine.

Hello.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/139/viewtopic.php?p=4910192#4910192
The crowds are converting the old-style generator to the new-model circuit, and as I understand it, you are the opposite.
The old-style regulator removes voltage from 3 additional. diodes, and it "drum" on the voltage on the battery, and the voltage regulator of the new sample takes readings on the battery or on consumers.

Ask why the people are trying to put the RN no.? The answer is ... in order for the battery to charge more or less normally.

"Https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/139/viewtopic.php?p=4910192#4910192
The crowds are converting the old-style generator to the new-type circuit, but as I understand you, the opposite is true. "
autolada is a good forum, but with a clarification. except for the Tuning section, there is no need to do anything. Well, maybe the flood is still not bad. Having visited the sections of tens and eights a couple of times, I realized that you can go there only to laugh. There is nothing more to do there. therefore I recommend the topic Tuning.

As for the generator itself, I put a diode bridge with 9 diodes, and I threw out the six diode bridge. why ? yes, because in the article I have described it quite clearly
"There are no additional diodes in the switching circuit as part of the generator set, control of the generator start-up, as well as control of its rotation frequency, is carried out directly on one of the output power windings."

Thank you, good article, only little has been written about diode bridges, I would like to know how to put a domestic bridge on Toyota?

Of course you can, but usually not in its pure form, but with modifications.
In the years when there were no spare parts for foreign cars by definition, they installed diodes from the legendary penny, drilling holes for them in the diode bridges of foreign cars. In some, it was possible to install Soviet diodes of general use of the D IDL series, they still drive. By the way, unlike modern diode bridges, the old ones withstood more severe overloads, including errors with battery polarity reversal. Modern bridges are much more delicate, apparently they should be protected by a fuse in the generator power circuit, which was not on old cars.
And so, everything is possible! The only thing that was difficult with was with zener diodes that keep the voltage within the specified limits. There were no Soviet ones for such currents, they were replaced with ordinary diodes, there were no problems.

And I muddied a stand at home, and a very working one, a remote control, a fan for artificial load, all the cases. works great, only the electric motor is weak, by 3 kW in total, after a load of 50 A it is inhibited (

cool

Good day! Regarding generators with a new regulator and a diode bridge without additional diodes. In general, they are characterized by a good charging voltage, I encountered only one BUT: on a taxi car, when called by a radio station, the generator voltage rose above 20 (.) Volts. After checking everything and making sure it was working, he assumed that the reason was the generator regulator, which went crazy when calling the radio station. I replaced the stock VAZ 2110 with a generator, the problem was gone!
The whim was not accidental, I met 3 more taxi cars. On a car without radio communication, the replaced generators worked without problems.

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The idea arose in my head to assemble a stand for testing generators. also add a separate check of the regulator and diode bridge to it. how to make a stand for the generator is clear, but I did not find anything for the regulator and the diode bridge. Does anyone have schemes, suggestions.

This post has been edited SKL – 27.11.2010 – 05:01

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To accurately determine the malfunction of the generator, in the car's electrical system, it is enough to check the voltage regulator and tighten the belt. But basically you have to remove the generator and install it on the stand for a more accurate determination.

Basic requirement for generator testing at the stand these are brushes ground to the collector slip rings, and the rings themselves are clean.

• The image shows how to connect the generator for testing on the bench.
• 1. Voltmeter.
• 2. Toggle switch, or switch.
• 3. Ammeter.
• 4. Battery.
• 5. Rheostat.
• 6. Generator.

At the stand, turn on the electric motor, set the voltage at the generator output to 14V with a rheostat, and bring the rotor speed to 5000 rpm. In this mode, the generator must work for at least 2 minutes, then measure the current return. If the recoil force is at least 44 A, the generator is in good order. If the value is less than the specified value, this indicates that there is a problem in the stator and rotor windings, there is damage to the valves, significant wear of the brushes and slip rings.

If there is a suspicion of a malfunction of the rectifier unit valves, you should check them on a heated starter to a temperature of +20 Celsius. To heat up the generator, let it run for about 15 - 20 minutes and the rotor speed of 5000 rpm, while the voltage at the generator output should be 14V.

The most accurate way to establish the operation of the generator is possible with an oscilloscope, for this, rotate the rotor of the generator at a frequency of 1500 - 2000 rpm, feeding the excitation winding from the battery, while disconnecting the battery from terminal 30. The rectified voltage curve has a sawtooth shape, with uniform teeth, if the winding the stator and valve are in good working order.

Also, by visual inspection, determine if there are traces of burning on the winding. The serviceability of the valves (rectifier diodes) can be checked without removing the starter from the car. The picture shows the verification method, please use it.

First, you should check if there is a short circuit on the negative and positive valves. To do this, connect the plus of the battery to terminal 30, and the minus through the control to the generator case. The lamp should not light, otherwise the negative or positive diodes have a short circuit. As shown in the picture a.

The negative valves are checked for a short circuit by connecting the plus of the battery with a plug without marking (image b), and the minus of the battery with the generator case through the lamp. If the lamp lights up, there is a short circuit in one or more valves.

The positive valves are checked as follows, the plus of the battery is connected to the terminal 30 of the generator (image c), and the minus of the battery through the control, with the plug of the output of the stator winding. If the lamp comes on, there is a short circuit.

The diagram for professionals is very simple. But it will be very useful for beginners, learners, students. It may also be needed by those who plan to engage in and promote such a type of service as repairing generators.With its help, it will be possible to check its performance.

As you can see in the design, spare parts are quite easy to find on the radio market, and then assembled in an hour.
As a result, you do not have to turn to experts in order to diagnose the health of the generator.

Added by: Alexandra Zeynalova

Added by: Sergey Kalashnikov
Probably it is better to take the electric motor from an old vacuum cleaner and make a simple speed controller.

And instead of rheostat 7, take 5 130 watt halogens in parallel through the switches, and instead of rheostat 9, a 21 watt light bulb is suitable.

The stand for testing car generators contains a base, made in the form of a table, on the tabletop of which an orientation device is installed for fastening and orienting the tested generator, a drive consisting of a V-belt transmission and an engine, a belt tension mechanism, a block of load resistors with electronic control and the ability to smoothly change load resistance, PLC-based control unit, including monitor and printer. The drive motor is located under the generator under test and is fixed to a plate under the base table top. The plate is installed with the ability to move by turning around the axis fixed on the base parallel to the axis of the engine shaft, and through the rod is connected to the nut of the belt tensioning mechanism. The belt tensioning mechanism is fixed in relation to the base and consists of a screw with a nut. The belt tensioner screw is driven by a handle. A shackle is used as a connecting rod.

Technical specifications
Motor type - Asynchronous
Engine speed, rpm 1000.3500
Installation weight, kg 210

Compound: General view, Specification

Software: Compass v10

Date: 2012-10-15

Views: 12 105

286

Composition: Assembly drawing (SB), Specification.

Composition: PZ, Specification, Sat.

Composition: VO, SB, 2 specifications, Detailing, PZ (design part)

Composition: 3D assembly, parts, drawings

Date: 2012-10-15

Views: 12 105

286

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Dear KMM, if you are quoting someone, then please give a link to the source, namely: It somehow turns out ugly - you don’t hesitate to distribute links to MOBILETRON and TRANSPO, but here it caused “difficulties”, plagiarism is straightforward.

For vovgut: I will give some clarifications regarding the use of the Zhiguli regulator as the “P-D” prefix. For more stable operation, I recommend connecting a 50-100 Ohm (2-5 watts) resistor between terminal “67” of the regulator and the negative (ground), for reliable closing of the tested regulator. The 1k resistor remains. And one more thing: the above link will also find the generator terminal assignments.

[QUOTE = autonica; 797988] Dear KMM, if you are quoting someone, then please give a link to the source, namely: It somehow turns out ugly - you don’t hesitate to distribute links to MOBILETRON and TRANSPO, but here it caused “difficulties”, plagiarism is straightforward.

It seems like I wrote it for myself, I didn’t assign it. What the original source didn’t give. Sorry.

Starter, they better, on the floor are checked.
I'll just keep silent here.
Now, briefly about the electrical part of the stand. Everything is done on the old basis, but accessible to the majority. Voltmeter and ammeter can be done on the AVR and on the same display. In the internet, you can find not bad solutions. There are also ready-made, the price is acceptable; one drawback is not suitable for current. who will be interested I will give links. And of course, equip the stand with a VRT - RC prefix or whatever I think can be implemented on the same controller. Well, and the last.This is of course my personal opinion, it is verified in practice, it is not bad to have or to implement it on the same AVR and one display an Inductance meter for checking a short circuit in the stator winding. For now, I use my VC9808 multimeter for this.

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Tags: How to make a stand for testing generators and starters with your own hands

I want to make a test stand for generators and starters, tell me which engine to take, how many watts, what other devices are needed for this, if anyone has a diagram or pictures, then throw a pozalnik, very good.

Vadim Generator is checked by a tester for 120 rubles.

Ekaterina textbook for universities and technical schools, edited by Kruglov. everything you need is there ..

Alina what nafik stand? ? give excitement and twist with a wrench.

I absolutely agree with you. The idea is great, I support it.

A car generator is an electrical device that supplies the vehicle's electrical system with electric current by converting mechanical energy into electrical energy. They come in different capacities (trucks need very powerful generators that can charge their batteries). One of the main functions of the generator is to charge the battery, which is discharged in half an hour without a generator. If the generator fails, the vehicle's electrical equipment will discharge the battery, and further engine operation will be impossible. In order to prevent such a situation, you should consider in detail the design of the generator, the causes of breakdowns and failure.