In detail: a stand for repairing generators with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Well, I'll tell you right away - to make such a stand at home is either very difficult or simply unrealistic. In short, I did not make any stand But the idea was interesting, or so it seemed to me. Well, further in order: I thought, why not take a set of tools, a head for 24, a drill and unscrew the generator, thereby saving myself from unnecessary installation work on the machine. In theory, everything seemed simple.
Took my toolbox
Took a drill and a head for 24 I put my head in the pulley and started to twist it
Everything is spinning super, cool, everything is kind of good ... but then I understand that I'm messing up somewhere in full, I call Mvirgo, tell me what and how, he tells me something like “you moron, without +12 on the rotor excitation windings, he will not work. at the start, +12 is supplied through the lamp from the instrument panel. " I pick up the book and figure out that yes ... I was. +12 are fed through this connector
At first I wanted to bring +12 there through the adapter, but it gave out 15V. I realized that this is a lot and brought one of my batteries. it was already discharged and gave out exactly 12.14V. Hooked up the whole thing and tried to twist. When +12 is applied to the windings, the rotor turns very hard. Those. twisting it with a drill is unrealistic - or the drill will cover itself or something else. In general, after 2 hours of engaging in all this disgrace, I came to the conclusion that it was unrealistic to make such a stand at home and started the usual and already familiar study of the generator's intrinsicities.
Maybe especially keen visitors saw that in the last article the generator was a little strange. I noticed it right away, but decided not to write about it, as there were some misunderstandings. Now there are pictures of two diode bridges.
new on the left, old on the right. find the differences! right - on the old one there are no 3 diodes, those that are responsible for supplying voltage to the windings ... Ie. it turns out that the voltage to the windings will only go through the battery charge lamp, while the light will always be on. what is wrong here? In fact, everything is simple. The old generator had a cunning voltage regulator (tablet) 8444.3702 "There are no additional diodes in the switching circuit as part of the generator set, control of the generator start-up, as well as control of its rotation frequency, is carried out directly on one of the output power windings." This is how an ordinary system looks like and an unusual one.
Here are the regulators themselves. I found as many as 3 different pieces
from left to right: 844.3702 55.3702 778.3702
After checking their work, I realized that 844.3702 is not working, 778.3702 is working, but somehow dumb .. I did not like it. But I liked 55.3702. I checked them by putting +12 on the contacts and looking at the voltage on the brushes.
In general, I assembled a new generator. The diode bridge rang, everything seemed to be alive. I will try it today, I hope everything is fine.
Hello. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/139/viewtopic.php?p=4910192#4910192 The crowds are converting the old-style generator to the new-model circuit, and as I understand it, you are the opposite. The old-style regulator removes voltage from 3 additional. diodes, and it "drum" on the voltage on the battery, and the voltage regulator of the new sample takes readings on the battery or on consumers.
Ask why the people are trying to put the RN no.? The answer is ... in order for the battery to charge more or less normally.
"Https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/139/viewtopic.php?p=4910192#4910192 The crowds are converting the old-style generator to the new-type circuit, and as I understand you, it's the other way around. " autolada is a good forum, but with a clarification. except for the Tuning section, there is no need to do anything. Well, maybe the flood is still not bad. Having visited the sections of tens and eights a couple of times, I realized that you can go there only to neigh. There is nothing more to do there. therefore I recommend the topic Tuning.
As for the generator itself, I put a diode bridge with 9 diodes, and I threw out the six diode bridge. why ? yes, because in the article I have described it quite clearly "There are no additional diodes in the switching circuit as part of the generator set, control of the generator start-up, as well as control of its rotation frequency, is carried out directly on one of the output power windings."
Thank you, good article, only little has been written about diode bridges, I would like to know how to put a domestic bridge on a Toyota?
Of course you can, but usually not in its pure form, but with modifications. In the years when there were no spare parts for foreign cars by definition, they installed diodes from the legendary penny, drilling holes for them in the diode bridges of foreign cars. In some, it was possible to install Soviet diodes of general use of the D IDL series, they still drive. By the way, unlike modern diode bridges, the old ones withstood more severe overloads, including errors with battery polarity reversal. Modern bridges are much more delicate, apparently they should be protected by a fuse in the generator power circuit, which was not on old cars. And so, everything is possible! The only thing that was difficult with was with zener diodes that keep the voltage within the specified limits. There were no Soviet ones for such currents, they were replaced with ordinary diodes, there were no problems.
And I muddied a stand at home, and a very working one, a remote control, a fan for artificial load, all the cases. works great, only the electric motor is weak, by 3 kW in total, after a load of 50 A it is inhibited (
cool
Good day! Regarding generators with a new regulator and a diode bridge without additional diodes. In general, they are characterized by a good charging voltage, I encountered only one BUT: on a taxi car, when called by a radio station, the generator voltage rose above 20 (.) Volts. After checking everything and making sure it was working, he assumed that the reason was the generator regulator, which went crazy when calling the radio station. I replaced the stock VAZ 2110 with a generator, the problem was gone! The whim was not accidental, I met 3 more taxi cars. The replaced generators worked without any problems in a car without radio communication.
Can you please tell me where to see the speed regulator circuit? - Answer:
Here is an article with a circuit of the speed regulator - go - tyts
Added by: Sergey Kalashnikov
Probably it is better to take the electric motor from an old vacuum cleaner and make a simple speed controller.
And instead of rheostat 7, take 5 130 watt halogens in parallel through the switches, and instead of rheostat 9, a 21 watt light bulb is suitable.
The stand for testing car generators contains a base, made in the form of a table, on the tabletop of which an orientation device is installed for fastening and orienting the tested generator, a drive consisting of a V-belt transmission and an engine, a belt tension mechanism, a block of load resistors with electronic control and the ability to smoothly change load resistance, PLC-based control unit, including monitor and printer. The drive motor is located under the generator under test and is fixed to a plate under the base table top. The plate is installed with the ability to move by turning around the axis fixed on the base parallel to the axis of the engine shaft, and through the rod is connected to the nut of the belt tensioning mechanism. The belt tensioning mechanism is fixed in relation to the base and consists of a screw with a nut. The belt tensioner screw is driven by a handle. A shackle is used as a connecting rod.
Technical specifications Motor type - Asynchronous Engine speed, rpm 1000.3500 Installation weight, kg 210
