DIY engine repair stand

In detail: do-it-yourself engine repair stand from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

So I decided to make a simple stand for repairing an engine with my own hands: blueprints, photo and description of the device are attached.

The stand was made from a profile pipe 70 x 70 mm (wall thickness 3 mm), it took about 3 meters.

I cut the blanks, so that the structure turned out to be collapsible, I made a bracket from a 4 mm corner and reinforced it with kerchiefs.

I made 3 holes in the profile with a grinder, and inserted bushings from the piston pins from the VAZ engine and welded.

From a piece of metal 6 mm thick I made a bracket for a VAZ engine, for another engine you need to make your own bracket.

Then I welded a piece of pipe to the stand, drilled 4 holes for fixing, at an angle of 90 degrees in the swivel pipe, and one on the stationary one, and 2 holes for the handle.

The stand has successfully passed the tests.

From the profile I welded the legs, primed the structure.

An engine repair stand is a device on which the power unit is fixed after being removed from the engine compartment of a car. This solution significantly simplifies the process of cleaning and inspection, as well as disassembly, troubleshooting and repair of the engine. Also at the stand for repairing the engine, the subsequent assembly of the power plant and transportation, if necessary, is carried out. In other words, it is much more convenient to carry out any work with the internal combustion engine when there is a disassembly - assembly stand for engine repair in a car workshop or garage.

One of the main advantages of this device is that the motor, fixed on a multifunctional engine tilt stand, can be turned at different angles. This feature allows you to improve the quality and convenience, as well as simultaneously reduce the time for repair and other work. In view of the above, such devices are in significant demand. On sale today are both finished products from well-known manufacturers, as well as more affordable offers from small manufacturers. In this article, we will talk about what characteristics should have and what functions such a stand is capable of performing, whether it is possible to make a homemade stand for engine repair, and also what requirements are put forward for such a device.

Video (click to play).

Various devices for fixing an internal combustion engine assembly, solutions for fixing individual components of a power unit, a ready-made stand for engine repairs, etc. have the main requirement, which is the reliability of fastening, as well as the stability of the stand itself. In parallel with this, it should be borne in mind that the stand must be serviced periodically.

For this reason, there must be free access to the fixing and fastening elements, which will allow visual inspection, lubrication of moving parts, eliminate a defect or tighten fasteners and other structural parts. This is especially important to consider when a stand for motor repair is made independently. Remember, only correct operation and maintenance will allow talking about the safety of the device and the maintenance of the device in working order.

Let us add that the site on which a mobile or other stand is also deserves special attention. The surface must be firm and level, not crumbling under the influence of severe stress. It is also important to take into account that fixing the load itself on the stand involves placing the motor or a separate unit (for example, a BC) exclusively in the center in order to avoid distortions. After placement, you should additionally check the reliability of the fastening before starting any work.It is also necessary to independently make any modifications or changes to the design of the finished factory stand after careful calculation. The owner carries out such actions solely at his own risk.

Let's start with the fact that finished products are an excellent option if the service for the repair of power units and assemblies is delivered, so to speak, “on stream”. In other words, the high initial cost of such products of proper quality often prevents many from purchasing disassembly and assembly stands for both personal use and for working in garages and even small service stations.

For the above reason, craftsmen and owners of small auto repair shops stop at the option of self-manufacturing stands, which are used to repair engines. Note that the drawings that are presented in the technical literature, and are also found in large quantities on the Internet, will help to make a stand for repairing an engine with your own hands.

A simple engine repair stand has several basic basic elements:

plate for securing the internal combustion engine;
stand base;
special baking tray;
swivel mechanism (usually worm-type);

It should also be noted that the stand should be a mobile device and be a universal solution. To put it simply, some stands for disassembly and assembly may be a suitable option for working only with a specific type of engine or allow you to work with a narrowly limited category, while others provide the ability to install and securely fix all kinds of internal combustion engines.

For this reason, even if initially the tilting stand is made for servicing your own car, it is better to make the device universal, since in the future there may be a subsequent need to repair other machines. As an example, we can mention the engines of the domestic manufacturer AvtoVAZ, which can be mounted on the stand using flange fasteners at the back, while reliable fixing of the engine from a foreign car in this way will no longer work.

In parallel with this, it is necessary to place the engine or a separate unit so that the center of gravity of the fixed part is opposite the axis of rotation of the rotary plate. This will allow the attached power unit, individual part or assembly to rotate effortlessly. Equipping the stand with wheels that can withstand heavy loads will facilitate the installation of the unit on the stand, as well as provide the ability to move large parts right on the stand. This eliminates the need for frequent use of various lifts during the repair of the internal combustion engine.

A mesh with fine meshes is additionally installed on the top of the pallet. The specified mesh is necessary in order to place on it and then rinse the removed elements over the pallet. Also, the net allows you to hold small engine parts that may fall into the pallet during washing or repair work.

Why and how to run in a gasoline or diesel engine after a major overhaul. Driving modes, features of the break-in process, the first oil change.What is a valve desiccant and what is it for. Existing ready-made varieties of special tools. How to make a valve desiccant yourself.Symptoms of malfunction and check of injection nozzles without dismantling. Diagnostics of injector power supply, performance analysis. Tips and tricks.When it is necessary to bore the crankshaft of the engine, for which the bore of the crankshaft is needed. How the crankshaft is bored, especially the selection of liners.Features of operation and causes of malfunctions of diesel injectors. How to independently remove, troubleshoot, disassemble and repair diesel engine injectors.Diesel injector malfunctions, check and self-identification of problems. Cleaning the nozzle of the diesel engine injectors, adjusting the injection pressure.Homemade cars, tractors, ATVs and ATVsHomemade stand tilter for disassembling and assembling engines.I made a rotator for the engine, you can install the engine with everything attached to the device, turn it and fix it in the desired position. The device is made in such a way that nothing interferes with completely disassembling the engine to the block.

Channel - 60 mm.

Channel - 50 mm.

Pipes - 36 and 28 mm.

Metal plates 8 mm - 2 pcs.

Trolley wheels.

Galvanized piece.

The homemade design is shown in the photo.The axis of rotation of the engine is located in its geometric center.The frame is made of a 60 mm channel, and the struts are screwed to the frame with supporting hinges at the top. The hinges are made of pipes and open on hinges.
After installing the engine with feet on the stand, the hinges are closed and fixed with nuts.You can fix the engine in the desired position with a removable clamp, just loosen the clamp, turn the engine and clamp it.On a pair of wheels, diagonally, I made a stopper from a curved plate, which is bolted to the frame and clamps the wheel.A pallet made of galvanized roofing sheet is installed under the engine.Dimensions: frame 600 x 800 mm, rack height 350 mm.Surely every car owner has heard about engine repair stands. Below we will consider what it is, what characteristics does such a device have, and, of course, is a home-made option suitable?Of course, we all want our vehicle to serve us for a long time and at the same time to be in excellent working order all the time. However, this only happens in fairy tales, and in practice even new cars taken from brand showrooms need to be repaired within a few years. And what can we say when the owner does not spare his "iron horse"? In general, many factors contribute to the failure or incorrect operation of one of the main parts of an auto - engine. Image - DIY engine repair stand

So, let's look at the main mistakes that lead to such dire consequences. As already mentioned, incorrect operation of the vehicle is reflected in the most negative way, for example, the use of unsuitable fuel or low-quality technical fluids. Untimely oil and timing belt change, constant overload of the car will also negatively affect. Even disastrous will be the neglect of the engine's need for warming up in the cold season. And what can we say about malfunctions after mechanical impact due to an accident?

It is not so important why the unit failed, in any case, the result is the same - the need for diagnostics and further repair work. In this case, a special stand used for such purposes will be indispensable. A suspended motor is attached to it, and then it becomes much easier to diagnose, transport and repair the unit. In addition, most of these mechanisms are equipped with a special unit, thanks to which the angle of rotation of the engine can be changed in any range, which greatly facilitates the work carried out. Image - DIY engine repair stand

But, like all fixtures, such a stand also needs good care. Therefore, be sure to carry out a visual inspection to search for defects, and if there are any, then the operation should be postponed. Before each use, check whether all fasteners are securely fixed, if not, then make a constriction. And of course, keep it only in a dry and clean place, remove all debris after each use, and lubricate all moving parts regularly. Only with proper operation, the stand, even a homemade one, will serve for a long time, reliably and will pay off if you are going to become a minder.

So, working with such stands is quite simple, but do not forget about safety precautions. At this point, we will pay attention to how to properly operate such devices. It is strictly forbidden to exceed the permissible tonnage, otherwise the structure may not withstand overloads, and the engine will fall... The consequences of such a situation can be very different, and the least is damage to expensive equipment. In addition, pay enough attention to the choice of the surface on which this object will be located, it must be flat and, of course, capable of withstanding significant loads. Image - DIY engine repair stand

The next criterion is the installation of the load. Before repairing the engine, it is necessary to securely fix it strictly in the center, while acting with extreme caution and accuracy. Remember, even your life can depend on the reliability of the fastening. And, of course, if you purchased such a stand in a store, then you do not need to make any adjustments to its design, trust the professional developers.

We figured out the purpose, care and operation of this device, and, as you can see, it is an indispensable attribute especially for beginners and professional minders. But he has one rather serious drawback - it is high cost, so not everyone will be able to immediately give a tidy sum. And if, in addition, you are not confident in your abilities and then abandon self-repair, then as a result, there is a high probability of being the loser. So let's look at how to design a homemade stand used to repair engines.So, if you are going to make a living with this, and not just maintain only your car, then you should make the stand universal. After all, for example, for the engine of domestic cars VAZ ordinary flange fasteners to the rear are enough, but the engine from Bmw so you can't fix it. Therefore, it is necessary to weld a pair of channels with ten-millimeter holes with a pitch of 50 mm to the rotating plate, and the latter should be located in the area of the motor mountings. But in order for the part to rotate quite easily around its own axis, its center of gravity must be strictly opposite the axis of rotation of the aforementioned plate. Image - DIY engine repair stand

Thanks to the holes on the channels, it becomes possible to mount motors of various sizes through adapter brackets.

The use of a manual hoist, which moves on beams, makes it possible not to construct a lifting mechanism above the stand, it is enough just to install it on the wheels, of course, they must be quite powerful. So it will be possible to simply roll the defective part to any place, and if this unit is not used, then it is also very easy to remove it to the far corner.

Quite often, repair work also involves flushing the engine, and keep in mind that this unit accumulates an incredible amount of dirt, and, naturally, in order not to deliver it across the garage floor, a pallet should be placed at the bottom of the stand. In this case, a fine mesh should be put on top of it, because the strong pressure of the jet can knock some small part off the engine and it will be much easier to detect it on the mesh than at the bottom of the pallet. In addition, you can put the elements of the disassembled unit on it and rinse them.

Administrator
23,458 posts

Name: Alexey

Weekend design.

I rented a stand for repairs, but I had to give it away, the owner needed it. Urgently made myself the same. Costs / expenses: 900 rubles for a square tube 60x60, electrodes, a circle for a grinder. I will fasten the wheels after painting. The last picture is the original.

- Members
- 144 posts
- - Administrator
  - 23,458 posts
  - - Administrator
    - 23,458 posts
    - - Administrator
      - 23,458 posts
      - Members
        
        461 posts
        
        Moscow city
        
        Administrator
        
        23,458 posts
        
        Name: Alexey
        
        Fastened to the gearbox bell mounting holes. So as not to interfere with the flywheel, there are spacer tubes.
        
        Square plate - a piece of channel 12 mm thick, racks for mounting the engine - a square bar 20x20. Hardened bolts from some kind of car, bought in auto parts. The grooves in the slab were first drilled at the ends, the middle was cut out with a grinder (this is faster than milling). To the lower frame, the corner is vert. the stand is attached with 4 bolts, as on the original.
        
        The design is repeatable at home without any major equipment. Welding and grinder
        
        Making a homemade tilting stand for mounting and repairing the engine.
        
        Some garage craftsmen who like to repair their own car with their own hands disassemble the engine on a workbench, and some even on a stool or drawer. But even with small-capacity engines, the cylinder block pulls several tens of kg, even without the cylinder head, crankshaft and flywheel. And when repairing on a table, turning it over is quite difficult and traumatic, because you can inadvertently press your fingers, and you have to do this several times. And when disassembling on a stool or some kind of box, there is always a risk of dropping the block on the floor or feet. I propose to get rid of the inconveniences described above and make a simple stand for fixing and fixing the engine in 16 different positions, which will make disassembling and assembling the motor a pleasure.
        
        The stand, which will be described in this article, is designed for all engines of the VAZ family, both for rear-wheel drive classics and for front-wheel drive cars. It is also suitable for some foreign cars, namely for Italian engines.
        But if the mounting dimensions do not fit some motors of other machines, then you just need to make the engine mounts, based on the dimensions of your block, and the distance of 680 and 740 mm (see Figure 1) will also need to be changed based on the dimensions (length) your engine.
        
        Most of the stands, shown in various books, catalogs or the Internet, have a cantilever engine mount (mount on one side of the block) and only one rack. This design still causes some caution, and yet, proceeding from the well-known proverb "one head is good, two is better", it is still desirable to make a more reliable two-support stand (with two posts, shown in Figure 1). Such a stand will be much more stable and reliable, and the price of the issue is just one more profile pipe, and one more block mount.
        
        Moreover, the two-way mounting of the engine will greatly facilitate its installation, and you will not need a hydraulic engine lift, or several people. Only two people of average build will be able to fix the engine on such a stand.
        And at the moment when the special motor supports (see Figure 2) with their spikes 4 (axes) fall into the lower halves of bearings 3 (they are shown in Figure 1), then the engine is already suspended on the racks and is already quite stable. And if you also install the bearings in the desired operating position and tighten the covers with bolts 5, then the motor will already be securely fixed.
        
        Flange 1 and rib 2 of the engine support (for Zhiguli) in a larger view.
        
        Supports 5 (Fig. 2) of the stand are attached to the flanges on the engine block, in Zhiguli motors to the places of the brackets of the front motor supports, for four factory studs with a diameter of 8 mm. Before installing the engine on the stand, you need to unscrew one bolt 5 (see Figure 1) and turn the covers of each bearing 3 by 90 degrees - these simple steps will allow you to install the spikes 4 of the supports into the stand bearings.
        
        Details of the stand in a larger shot.
        3 - sleeve bearing, 5 - bolt pulling the bearing caps (4 pcs), 6 - disc retainer pin 3 (secures the motor from turning)
        
        After the motor is suspended on racks in the stand bearings, it will be necessary to turn the bearing caps to the operating position and then tighten the bolts 5. And the disks of the 3 supports are welded so that one of the disks is rotated relative to the other disk by 22.5 degrees. As a result, when using the left or right retainer, you can set the motor in as many as 16 different positions, which will make it easy to disassemble or assemble the motor, choosing the most convenient one for some kind of operation.
        
        When the desired comfortable position of the engine is selected, it remains to fix the motor from turning. To do this, you will need to push the retainer pin 6 (see Fig. 1) into the hole under the bearing of the support so that it goes into the hole of the disc 4.
        
        You can drill a variety of holes in the struts to help you temporarily place the pins or engine mounts to keep them close at hand. However, it is not necessary to drill many holes in the racks; you can simply attach suitable small fastening boxes to them.
        
        If someone wants to make a more universal stand for different motors (of different lengths and even for longer 6-cylinder ones), then you can make it so that plates 10 - 12 mm thick will be welded at the base of each rack (profile pipe). with four holes in the corners, and at the base of the stand it will be necessary to weld not one profile pipe (the one that is 680 mm long), but two pipes that will be about a meter long. A series of mating holes (or slots) will need to be made in these two pipes. This will allow you to move and fix the struts at different distances from each other, depending on the length of the block of any engine.
        
        Naturally, for the manufacture of the stand, you can use not only a profile (rectangular) pipe, but also a channel, for example, as shown in Figure 1 of the base, those that are 500 mm long. And as I already said, if for some engine mounts as on this stand, designed for VAZ and some Fiat motors, are not suitable, then supports 5 and flanges 1 (see Fig. 2) will need to be made based on the mount of your particular engine.
        
        As a result, the stand will turn out to be not very heavy, and it can be easily moved to any place in the garage, or it can be made on rollers, and then the stand with a motor fixed to it can be easily rolled out of the garage, for example, for washing the engine on the street. And the place in the garage for him and the motor can be changed at any time. And if you make such a homemade stand (tilter) of the engine, then any repair of the engine will be done with pleasure and convenience; success to all!
        
        For those car enthusiasts who are used to repairing their car on their own, it is in the order of things to have a sea of gadgets and homemade equipment that makes repairs easier. As a rule, complex and bulky equipment is quite expensive and pays off only if it generates income. Today we will consider the principles of construction and design of simple but necessary equipment, without which a full-fledged engine repair, if possible, is very difficult.
        
        In principle, it is quite easy to make a rotator for the engine with your own hands, the drawings and designs of which are posted on the page.Another thing is how useful it will be and how much the use of the garage space for its placement will be justified. Be that as it may - the equipment is very useful and functional, simple to manufacture and inexpensive in materials.
        
        The price of a branded, factory tilter slipway for passenger car engines will be at least 8 thousand rubles, and if you strain yourself and make a tilting crane with your own hands, you can save even 20-25 thousand rubles.
        
        A tilter, or stand tilter, is a device that can withstand the weight of a car engine, while the motor does not lie on the stand, but is fixed movably. Thus, in order to access, for example, the crankcase, you do not need to turn it over on the workbench, think about how to fix the cylinder block on the surface. The motor, mounted on the equipment, can rotate freely around its axis and have several fixed positions, depending on the design features. In this case, it is necessary to achieve several indicators:
        
        the device should not take up much space in the garage:
        
        the engine must be fixed firmly and rigidly;
        
        the design must allow a certain effort to be applied, while maintaining stability;
        
        the structure must be rigid;
        
        The rotator should be able to easily select the desired position of the engine, holding it securely.
        
        Of course, you can do without any tilters and disassemble the Zhiguli engine on a box or on a workbench, if there is one. But there will always be a risk that the motor will slip out and fall on your feet or on the floor, you always need to call someone for help, always uncomfortable. Some of the drawings shown on the page are designed specifically for VAZ engines, and some are universal. But they all work for their owners and facilitate engine repairs.
        
        The main thing that needs to be achieved is stability and rigidity. Not everyone graduated from a university with an A in strength and technical mechanics, so we will give some of the main points as a basis for building with our own hands or changing the dimensions that are indicated in the drawings. There are also many options for tilters that attach the engine to only one console. This causes increased stress on one rack. Such a design also has the right to exist, but subject to certain conditions.
        
        In any case, the stand will be made of profiles, no matter if it will be a square pipe, a powerful corner or an I-beam. At the junctions of two profiles, a certain mobility cannot be avoided. In this case, an ordinary triangle will come to the rescue, which is the most rigid and indestructible figure. Therefore, it is necessary to unload the B-pillar as much as possible, and this can be done only with the help of slopes, so that the maximum load falls on the support triangle.
        
        It is very important to correctly position the center of gravity and relieve the lower frame of bending loads. Here, too, several braces will have to be included in the design. The center of gravity should be located so that it is possible to rotate the engine without problems, but at the same time the entire structure retains stable stability. It is necessary to take into account both the weight of one cylinder block and its weight together with the block head, flywheel and crankshaft.
        
        The simplest solution to this issue is shown in the photo. The simplest rotator, albeit with one engine mounting point and only three additional braces, which remove the main load from most of the B-pillar. And it is already reinforced with an additional stiffener in the form of the same profile.
        
        The question remains about the stability of the entire structure, since the support area is relatively small. In this case, you can consider the option with two points of attachment of the motor to the stand. There is a double-sided engine mount, which also evenly distributes the load over the struts, and a large support area, which prevents the structure from overturning.
        
        All dimensions shown in the drawing correspond to the dimensions of the VAZ studs and landing planes, and the motor fixes the locking pin against rotation. The locking mechanism allows you to choose one of sixteen positions, which is quite enough for servicing any engine. Good luck to everyone!
        
        Homemade buggies, ATVs, ATVs
        
        Message alkozlov Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:49 am
        
        Well, I also missed the day at work.
        
        Message Staford Wed Dec 10, 2013 12:48 am
        
        Today I bought the metal, welded the main part. I also made paws. Tomorrow I will take the plate and pipe from the milling machine, then finish it. Later I will weld a basin for oil and dirt in general on the bottom.
        
        "It's impossible!" - said the reason
        "This is recklessness!" - noticed experience
        "It's useless!" - cut off pride
        “Try it. "- the dream whispered.
        
        Message stus Wed Dec 10, 2013 11:16 am
        
        Message Staford 09-03-08 10:25 pm
        
        Dovaril!))) To check with my father, they hung up the VAZ block, it hangs like that, V6 did not hang today - the bolts are on the street in the car, tomorrow I will hang it))))) Now it remains to paint)))
        
        "It's impossible!" - said the reason
        "This is recklessness!" - noticed experience
        "It's useless!" - cut off pride
        “Try it. "- the dream whispered.
        
        Message Alexis.79 Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:21 pm
        
        Message ANDROV Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:10 pm
        
        Message Anatoly Galkin Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:56 pm
        
        Staford wrote: Today I bought metal, welded the main part. I also made paws. Tomorrow I will take the plate and pipe from the milling machine, then finish it. Later I will weld a basin for oil and dirt in general on the bottom.
        
        Message Staford »Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:40 am
        
        There is a beam, and talcum rolls along it)) They broke off with the powder, painted it with free blue paint like the compressor)))
        
        Thinking not much strengthened.
        As a result, I can say that I am quite satisfied with the stand, it is doing fine, I will think what else I need))))
        
        "It's impossible!" - said the reason
        "This is recklessness!" - noticed experience
        "It's useless!" - cut off pride
        “Try it. "- the dream whispered.
        
        Message KimIV 09-03-07, 08:26
        
        Message MwbG 09-03-07, 08:10
        
        Message Yuri 13-03-07-08: 01:44 Tue Dec 24, 2013 7:44 pm
        
        Video (click to play).
        
        And I have one. Pivot points - rear hubs of nine VAZ, the center of gravity of the engine approximately on the axis of rotation, easily turns, is fixed every 45 degrees. The engine is installed on standard brackets (although for each type of engine you need to make your own mounting adapters - seen in the photo). The pallet is installed downward when cleaning-washing the engine. Allows you to start-running the assembled engine when installing the bell with a starter.
        
        Rate the article:
        
        Grade 3.2 who voted: 84