In detail: ardo washing machine do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The Ardo washing machine in the house for a long time, the service life specified by the manufacturer, has expired, but in service. She already broke down three years ago. The renovation turned into a whole epic. I had to study its nodes and work algorithm almost thoroughly. I coped with the repair, but it was not easy. Therefore, you can imagine how "I was delighted" when they told me in an insinuating voice: "But the washing machine is not working."
When I removed the side panel, I saw that the belt had come off. But this is not the cause, it is the effect. But the consequence of which was to be sorted out. Flange misalignment is evident. On closer inspection (looked into the inside of the drum), I saw that there was a bias in relation to the washing tank, but not in relation to the washing drum.
In the last renovation, having opened the panel, I saw just such a "picture". The attachment point for the washing drum flange support in the side cover of the washing tub has collapsed.
He took off the cover, dismantled all the elements from it, bought a new one and put it on it. I also purchased a new flange with support for the drive belt pulley.
When disassembling the washing machine, it is imperative that you need a photograph of the connection of the wires coming from various nodes to the elements installed on the side cover of the washing machine tank. Otherwise, when assembling, you will have to call a specialist from the service.
You also need a photo of the bearing (always with a number) to buy a new one if the machine has worked for more than 3 years. The culmination of the renovation came with the start of assembly work. The thing is that it is often possible to remove a worn-out part without a complete disassembly of the equipment being repaired, but it is simply impossible to assemble it. Moreover, as expected, I mean qualitatively. I had to make a complete nodal analysis of the washing machine, and only then assemble it. Everything would be easier and faster if from the very beginning he did not try to philosophize slyly.
Video (click to play).
This time he behaved correctly. I sorted it out right away. Here is the pulley-supported flange that I replaced last time.
It is still quite well preserved. I decided to leave him.
It is a flange supported on the opposite side.
In vain I didn’t listen to the advice and didn’t replace it the last time (I was greedy). It turned out to be deformed in the plane of the flange.
And besides, his appearance is not very presentable - metal corrosion. Unambiguously requires replacement. I ran halfway through the city, to all the spare parts stores and workshops, but nowhere did I find a new one. In one place they offered second-hand, but I myself have one, only a little curve. In one of the workshops, my attention was drawn to the center of the flange, more precisely, to the screw. If you unscrew it, then the support is disconnected from the flange. That is, the unit is repairable.
I made a sketch indicating the dimensions for the further production of a normal drawing and began to look for a turner. But it is always like this, when necessary, then "the brick ran out, then the mortar has dried up." Got it, it won't work quickly.
I photographed the nameplate on the back of the washing machine (his information helps a lot to search through the Internet) and set out to find what I needed in the virtual space. It turned out that this may be possible (chances are 50 x 50), but it will take a long time to wait for the result.
Then he picked up a brass hammer (for less deformation of the metal of the part being repaired), laid the flange with its flat side on a flat, smooth and thick metal surface and slowly, with gentle blows, aligned (made it even). I collected everything in the reverse order. There was no skew. The drive belt did not come off during operation. The washing machine has been in operation for the third month.The washerwoman received intelligible instructions on the inadmissibility of pushing things into the drum lumpy and in large quantities. These are the main reasons for the failure of the washing machine. But the drawing still needs to be done and the stainless steel flange should be sharpened, and as thick as possible. Whoever happens to carry out such repairs, start with the instruction manual:
page 3 - Machine Description
page 10 - Troubleshooting
This is a great way to speed up the process. Repair of washing machines is being mastered by Babay iz Barnaula.
Read the recommendations for repairing the Ardo washing machine from the master!
The manufacturer (translated from Italian home appliances) is Antonio Merloni.
Front loading standard - FL models. Drying - WD.
30% - blockage of the drain path, wear and damage to the pump:
We open the loading door, on the sticker we determine the model of the machine.
Having unscrewed the drain filter at the front at the bottom, we clean it.
We change the pump, which is located at the bottom right on the back side.
We loosen the clamp on the drain pump branch pipe.
We check the pump, clean it - in case of a malfunction, we change it.
Over time, mechanical wear appears on the shaft. The impeller dangles and does not pump out water well.
20% - malfunction of the electronic control board:
We look at the power supply and the level of constant voltages (5 and 12 V) at its outputs. If there are no voltages at the IP output, check the corresponding elements - a power switch, a power filter, a power transformer T1, a rectifier (D11-D14), a U1 microcircuit.
They are used in typewriters with an asychronous drive motor and a mechanical controller.
Models A1000PL, A1000XCZ, A1000XPL, WD1000PL, TL1000X, etc.
The wear of the heating element increases with “hard” water.
Overgrowing with scale (scab), it gives off heat poorly and burns out.
You need to pull out the gum and not the heating element. Since pulling out the heating element, you can wedge the gum.?
This is important to avoid further leakage under the seal.
10% - wear of brushes of the collector motor, loosening of contacts, breakage of the drive belt
Remove the belt, unscrew the screws and remove the engine. The motor has two brushes, each attached with two screws. We unscrew the screws and remove the brushes.
Inspect the board motor power supply terminal and ground wire.
Very often, the contacts are oxidized from moisture and the machine gives an error because of this.
Each brush is installed in a brush holder. It can be taken apart into two halves. Pay attention to how much the brush protrudes.
This size should be at least 1 cm. The best option is 1.5 cm. After that, we assemble everything and put it back in place.
Having jammed the pulley, unscrew the upper shaft clamping nut counterclockwise.
If the oil seal is not filled with a specialized grease and the cross bushing is not lubricated with it during assembly, the oil seal will wear out very quickly, no matter what quality it is, this has been proven in practice.
It is not worth saving and improvising with lithol, grease and other lubricants, get better specialized lubricants that are used to lubricate the oil seals.
Standard sizes of Ardo bearings and seals:
This applies to modern technology - since 2000 (models AE800X, AED1000X, TL1OOOEX).
Thanks to it, you can diagnose (control module DMPU):
Close the hatch (without linen). Set the program selection to 30 ° C until it clicks. The temperature regulator to 0 ° C. Turn on. The drum rotates at 250 rpm. To check the buttons half load, additional rinse and others, press them. The spin speed increases from 250 to the maximum, provided for this model. In the absence of additional functions, press the spin button.
Indicators will blink when a malfunction is detected.
E00 | E01 - Draining. Clean the drain filter and drain connections. E02 - The water is not supplied or drained off correctly. The drain hose may not be positioned correctly. E03 - Water is not drained from the tank, also the drain time has exceeded 3 minutes. F2 - Temperature sensor. F4 - It is issued on the display if there is no water drain. A possible cause is a drain pump. F5 - The water is drained and instantly poured. The problem is usually in the water supply filter. F6 | F9 | F12 - Electronic module. F8 - The water in the tank has exceeded the available level. Suspicion of an aquastop valve. F13 | F14 - Critical.
Breakdowns are rare, usually associated with improper operation. Italian technology is distinguished by its high manufacturability and versatility.
How to carry out a service test equipped with the MINI-SEL board:
Control panels look different
The steps to enter the check mode are shown in the figures. - move the program selector knob to the 6 o'clock position - press button 4 - ENERGY WASH and, holding it down, press the POWER button. After that, the CM should go into test mode.
With temperature control knob:
- turn the program selector knob to the 6 o'clock position - move the temperature selection knob to the 9 o'clock position - press and hold the ENERGY button (for at least 6 s), at the same time turn on the power supply of the CM with the POWER button.
After that, the CM should go into test mode.
Turning the selection knob, we check the devices:
Knob in position 1 (autotest) - NTC temperature sensor (sensor circuit - for open or short circuit), pressostat, display (if any), door lock and main function buttons on the control panel
2. First, the cold water inlet valve is opened until a signal is issued from the water pressure sensor. The filling of water takes place through the compartment of the dispenser for the PREVIEW.
3. First, the heating element turns on and the water in the tank heats up to 60 ° C. Then the CM drum starts to rotate in a cyclic mode at a speed of 45 rpm (as in a washing mode).
4. The drain pump (pump) turns on. At the same time, the drum starts to rotate as during spinning.
5. Within 10 s, the hot water filling valve is turned on (if this CM model has it). At the same time, the CM drum starts to rotate.
6. The fan and heating element of drying are included (for models with drying)
The test mode is exited by turning off the power with the POWER button.
Elimination options: 1. It is necessary to check the presence of water in the water supply. It is trite, but very often the reason for the appearance of an imaginary malfunction is such funny things.
2. The inlet hose is squashed or clogged. We check visually for the absence of compression. We unscrew the hose from the washing machine, turn on the tap and see if the water will pass through? Of course, care must be taken to ensure that the water does not drain onto the floor. If the water does not come out, we find and remove the blockage. The hose with a leakage valve after the protection has been triggered will have to be replaced with a new one.
3. The filler mesh on the back of the washing machine is cleaned. The mesh is quite fine and often clogged with rust or other particles from the tap water. The filter can be easily removed with pliers and cleaned thoroughly.
4. It is necessary to make sure that the filling valve is in good working order. It is located just behind the filter. The valve becomes accessible after removing the top cover of the washing machine. Perhaps, the wires of its power have come off or frayed. To check the functionality, the valve itself can be removed and connected to the voltage indicated on its body. Should open. If it does not work, you will have to change the valve to a new one.
5. The problem may be related to a faulty water level sensor. Or, in another way, the pressure switch. You can also find it under the top cover. It is removed quite easily. It is held on the body of the washing machine by screws or latches.We check the integrity of the wires and their connection to the sensor. A tube comes up to the pressure switch from below. It may be clogged. The simplest test for the performance of the sensor after removing it is to blow into its tube. If you hear a click, the pressure switch is most likely working properly. Otherwise, you will have to change to a new one. It is important not to mix up the wires when installing a new one.
Common causes and solutions: 1. Again, about the banal - you need to make sure that the sewer pipe is not clogged. Maybe the car just has nowhere to drain the water. Of course, this is possible with machines with a permanently connected drain. We also check the drain hose of the washing machine. It should not be kinked or twisted. In principle, you can disconnect the hose from the sewer and check if water comes out of it when draining? If it does, we clean the sewer system. If not, check the hose for clogging. Problem still exists? We look further.
2. The drain filter is clogged. Simple, but the most common reason for the lack of a drain. The filter is located at the bottom of the washing machine under the door or decorative panel. It is a screw plug screwed into the machine body using a standard right-hand thread. Accordingly, the filter is unscrewed counterclockwise. Do not forget to place a tray under the washing machine to collect the flowing water. After removal, the filter is cleaned of impurities. You will need to remove the excess in the place where the filter was installed. Next, reverse the process and check the drain. Most often it helps.
3. Blocked or faulty drain pump. A common problem for Ardo washing machines is the blocking of the pump due to foreign objects entering it. Various coins, buttons and other items left in the pockets of the washed clothes, getting inside the drain pump, prevent it from performing its functions. A symptom of a blockage of a working pump - at the moment the drain is turned on, the pump hums, tries to expel water, but cannot. Another option is that the pump has become completely unusable. In any case, he will have to be removed. In Ardo washing machines, it is very easy to access the drain pump from the bottom of the machine. They have no bottom or are covered with an easily removable plastic strip. It is enough to lay the car on one side and the access is open. Before removing, you can check the operation of the pump with a multimeter. Further, the clamp of the rubber pipe is loosened and it is separated from the pump. The same procedure is for the drain hose. Power wires are disconnected. It remains to unscrew the screws that hold the pump and remove it. A serviceable pump is disassembled. And foreign objects are removed from it. The defective one is replaced with a new one.
4. The lack of drainage can be caused by incorrect operation of the pressure switch. It simply may not send a signal to the control module to drain. We have already discussed what needs to be done with the water level sensor above.
2. A rare, but possible breakdown option is a malfunction of the temperature sensor. It is checked by measuring the resistance at room temperature and when heated with hot water. A non-working sensor is simply replaced.
3. It is necessary to make sure that there is no "sticking" of the contact group of the heating element relay on the control module.
Do you need to repair your Ardo washing machine? You have a choice: repair the equipment yourself or contact a service center. In the latter case, additional expenses are foreseen for the work of the wizard. Therefore, we will tell you how to find and fix a breakdown with your own hands.
Error codes will help determine the location of the problem: E00 / E01, E02, E03, F2, F4, F5, F6 / F9 / F12, F8, F13 / F14. The control board diagnoses the system in the event of a breakdown and displays a set of symbols on the display. Each of them points to a different problem. The decoding of errors can be found in the operating instructions and our article.
Serviceability of the heating element and its wiring.
Thermal sensor performance
Remove debris from the drain filter, hose, pipe.
Replace your broken pump
Replacing the motor brushes.
Repair of windings.
Installing a new module
Ardo washing machines are divided into two main categories according to the type of load:
Vertical (Ardo TLN 85 SW, T80X, TLN 106 SA).
Frontal (Ardo SE 810, FLN 126 LW, A 1033, WDO 1485 L).
The Ardo top-loading washing machine features a compact body that easily takes up the space between the bathtub and the sink. But it is not without its drawbacks.
Here's what users are complaining about:
Machines with a long service life (more than 5 years) spontaneously open the drum flaps. This leads to jamming and separation of the flaps.
The top cover of the drum is often corroded because the water is fed through the top.
Close the flaps more tightly. Clean the latch from debris, adhering powder.
Do not overload the tank with laundry.
Observe the dosage of the detergent to prevent foaming.
Wipe the drum with a dry cloth after washing to avoid corrosion.
The rest of the problems are similar to the front models. The most common ones are:
The "Ardo" washer is noisy and makes extraneous sounds.
The equipment does not drain water.
There is no water heating.
The drum does not rotate.
After switching on, there is no water intake or it flows in excess of the norm.
Let's see how to make an independent repair.
Some breakdowns can be eliminated without the help of a wizard if you follow our recommendations.
SMA buzzes, makes noise, vibrates
Have you bought your car recently? Did the unit start jumping and rattling when you first started it? Check if the shipping bolts have been removed. They lock the tank in place to prevent damage during transport.
Unfold the case with the back wall.
Remove the bolts around the perimeter.
Also make sure the equipment is level and stable on the surface. The floor must be level and firm. Twist the legs of the clipper if necessary.
The most serious failure is bearing wear. In this case, not only a rumble is heard, but also a grinding noise (with severe wear). Replacing a bearing is considered a difficult repair. How to disassemble the CM "Ardo" and install a new bearing, watch the video:
