Washing machine electrolux ew 1063 s DIY repair

stops on program C and drives the water in a circle. If you try to switch manually, nothing happens. And if you turn off the power with the button and scroll the program dial 360 degrees, it continues to erase. There is exactly the same glitch in the washing of synthetic products. Help from people. downloaded the diagram of work.
where to start if it’s a module.

It is very similar to a typical malfunction of this type of C / M. Since there is nothing on your part except “downloaded the work diagram“, I can only SUPPOSE that the problem is in the module. And this malfunction has been discussed many times. Use search from the beginning.
And correct the mistakes in the brand name, otherwise it’s not solid.

sergeiishepelev, add the TYPE of technology in the title of the topic.

what does a typical malfunction mean

And pull out the end of the drain hose from under the bathtub and hang it on the sink?

Shadoweye81, I would tell you, but I will not say anything.
The author's control module “falls silent” and only the JET SYSTEM pump remains to work.

regis2seeing you on the forum was already waiting for this post.

in what circle, there was no conversation, but the heating element is worth checking.

regis2, loves suites with tipuha.

TEN checked (the voltage on TEN is also suitable), the drum rotates in both directions, the pump drains the water, yesterday I ran the programs - on the line of cotton products, the program ran normally, without interruptions, but on the synthetic wash, the program H hung after a few steps from programs N.
And all the crap started after flushing the sisiema from scale. Maybe somewhere else to look?

sergeiishepelev, do not torment the washer, let the one who can do it. you have already written in Russian in white where the defect is.

All their life they wrote in black and white.

Here I am such a pervert - I want to figure it out myself. Yes, by the way, the parents have exactly the same. I will try to change the boards. Where to start?

Message SKORPION 04 Dec 2012 21:21

Message Imk01 »05 Dec 2012 01:01

Message stasprachkis »05 Dec 2012 03:20

Message Petro555 24 Dec 2012 08:48

Good day!
In order not to produce another topic, I decided to write here, I'm not a master, this is my home problem.
Machine EW1063S Type: P6186706, Prod. No .: 914759013 01 SN: 314 00047

Message Petro555 »24 Dec 2012 09:05

Message stasprachkis »24 Dec 2012 13:40

Message Samrem 24 Dec 2012 19:34

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

Something, you, "persecute".
There are only a few parts: a cross, a double row bearing, a circlip, an oil seal, three bolts for a cross, one bolt for a pulley. I don’t remember anymore.
There, especially "quietly" collecting - 40 minutes. work.

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

Yeees. And the diagram when assembling, like the Bible.

By the way, where did the cast-iron cross come from in the plastic tank 1063?

regiss, I'm not confusing, but you. I have not seen 1063 with a stainless tank. But 1062 with stainless steel everything. By the way, the cars are no different except for the tank. 1063 only 3 modifications, and all with a plastic tank. regiss, I took a drawing from your drawing?

Moreover, one of them has a different bearing unit. But she is not EW1063S but EW1063W. So with

I agree. And with a cast-iron cross, nothing. There is no cast iron there.

regiss, Regarding the assembly of the tranclucator, in many respects is right.

There, in order to make a mistake, you must have an extraordinary talent. True, you can not put the retaining ring. And when I collected everything to remember.

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255

Posts: 2266

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

And therefore, no one wants to help, because they are already tired of these repairs in garages. And since you have just opened up and are trying to gain experience, then at least just sit down and read, for example, the topic of replacing bearings, it was also discussed there. But this is not a thrill for you, let them tell you specifically what and how to do and cut down the money.

Well, about the rpm, do not forget that in a car the bearing rotates almost in one direction and by the way measure the temperature of the bearing in the car's hub and the washer support. You will understand a lot.

Warnings: 1

Posts: 44

Ilya nikolaich, do you think I can not read? In the topic about bearings, it is written that due to the rounded chamfer, the inner race begins to crumple the bronze bushing. I was very attentive to all other people's experience and studied how the inner bearing races would rest against the bushing and pulley. The support area has definitely decreased, but not critically, there is no wrinkling.

Well, about the rotation: in a washing machine, the drum spins in different directions only during washing and rinsing, when the load on the bearing is not as great as during the spin cycle. And the spin is always in one direction. Did you measure the temperature of the bearings in the washer and the car yourself? Of course, I didn’t measure it, but I know how the brake disc of the car heats up, it can get hot almost to redness. And the brake disc is screwed to the hub tightly without any thermal clearances, so the bearing in the car's hub surely heats up more than 100 degrees, which cannot be in the washer.

So that,Ilya nikolaich, if you have something specific to say, then tell me. And don't think I'm sitting in the garage.

The only thing I am to blame is that I did not measure the thickness of the inner races of the automobile bearing, maybe the dog is buried here. So I'm going to roll down to the garage and measure it.

Or maybe my requirements are just too high, maybe in fact the backlash is insignificant, but I'm worried.

my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255

Posts: 2266

Among the many brands of washing machines, Electrolux is in constant demand and popularity. Modern models are distinguished by wide functionality and convenient control. But, in any technique, sooner or later, various malfunctions and breakdowns occur. You have to contact warranty service centers or try to repair your Electrolux washing machine with your own hands. Self-diagnostic capabilities allow you to identify a breakdown and take timely measures to avoid more serious consequences.

A similar situation occurs quite often. First of all, this may be due to the lack of electricity. For various reasons, knocks out a circuit breaker, mainly due to a short circuit. Sometimes the residual current device is triggered when there is a current leakage to the washing machine. RCD tripping often occurs due to poor-quality wiring. Lack of power is often due to a faulty outlet.

Another reason is often a surge protector. For testing purposes, it is recommended to plug the washing machine directly into a power outlet. Sometimes the cord itself from the machine is faulty, constantly experiencing mechanical stress. A multimeter is used to detect a breakdown. If there is a break, it is recommended to completely replace the wire, since twisting will not provide reliable and stable operation.

Quite often the power button fails. In some Electrolux models, it is directly powered. When checking, the washing machine must be de-energized. The functionality of the button is checked using a multimeter turned on in buzzer mode. During the test, the button is alternately switched on and off. In the ON position, the multimeter will beep, which indicates its working condition. In the off position, the button will not be detected.

Sometimes the problem is a faulty noise filter. The filter dampens the electromagnetic waves generated by the washing machine. If it breaks down, the electric current stops flowing through the circuit and the washing machine does not turn on. The filter is checked by dialing. At its input there are three wires - phase, neutral and ground, at the output - only phase and zero.If there is voltage at the input, but not at the output, then the filter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

The most serious reason for not turning on the Electrolux washing machine is associated with a malfunction of the control module. Replacing the entire device is very expensive and the control unit can be repaired by yourself. However, it is far from always possible to do this at home, therefore it is in this case that it is recommended to use the services of a service center.

Most washing machines are installed in the bathroom, therefore, in accordance with the PUE, they must be protected from leakage currents using a separate RCD or differential machine. However, situations often arise when protective devices start to work constantly for no apparent reason. There are several of the most probable options due to which such an unplanned actuation occurs.

First of all, triggering can occur as a result of incorrect connection of the differential machine. This happens when attempts are made to a zeroing device, in the absence of a grounding wire. In another case, the phase is passed through the device, and the working zero is simply duplicated or connected directly to the common zero bus. According to the rules, the current of the phase and neutral conductors passes through the internal circuit of the protective equipment. Part of the current passing through the common zero bus is perceived by the RCD as a leak, so the power is immediately turned off.

Another reason is a defective protective device. Before checking the RCD, all outgoing wires are disconnected. After that, voltage is applied to the switched on RCD or differential machine and the TEST button is pressed. As a result, the protective equipment should be disabled. If this does not happen, then the RCD is faulty and must be replaced.

If the RCD is working properly, you should carefully inspect the washing machine itself and assess its condition. This applies to old units, since it is they who have damaged internal wiring, worn insulation of the electric motor windings, deformed housings of internal parts and other breakdowns that can cause current leakage. The check is done with a multimeter by checking the resistance between the machine body and the plug electrodes.

If all the previous checks did not reveal any faults, then the reason is most likely a faulty electrical wiring. It can be pierced by a nail or self-tapping screw, too tightly packed in a panel or junction boxes. The ingress of moisture is quite often observed. These malfunctions are especially pronounced when the insulation is damaged or worn out. If no damage can be found, the entire cable line must be replaced.

A characteristic feature of modern Electrolux washing machines is the absence of dependence on the presence or absence of hot water in the water supply system. The unit heats it up to the required temperature by itself. Therefore, the situation becomes rather unpleasant when the collected water does not heat up and remains cold.

The fault can be detected approximately 30 minutes after the start of the wash. It is enough to put your hand on the glass of the sunroof, and if it is cold, then the water does not heat up.

• The main cause of the malfunction is considered to be the incorrect installation of the washing machine, when the heights of the pump and sewage system do not correlate with each other and do not provide a normal drain. In this case, water entering the tank immediately leaves the machine through the drain. The heating itself occurs, but due to the constant flow of cold water, it simply does not have time to warm up.
• The wrong wash mode is selected. Some of the programs are not designed for strong water heating and the heat will not be felt through the sunroof.
• Breakdown of the water heater - heating element, after which the machine simply stops heating the water. This is mainly due to the formation of scale, leading to overheating and burnout of the heating element. It often fails under the influence of voltage surges in the electrical network.
• Sometimes the heating stops as a result of the failure of the temperature sensor. This leads to an automatic stop of water heating in order to avoid overheating of the heating element.

The greatest problems are created by a faulty control module that controls all processes, including water heating. In this case, independent actions can only aggravate the situation, therefore it is recommended to contact the service center.

If water is not collected, do not panic and immediately run to the service center. First of all, you need to try to figure it out on your own and check for the presence of certain reasons.

First of all, you should make sure that the water supply is working properly. Sometimes there is simply no necessary pressure in the urban network. In some cases, the owners forget to open the tap that supplies water to the washing machine, which was closed after the previous wash.

If the water supply system is working properly, then the reasons for the lack of water in the tank are related to the washing machine itself. This could be an inlet valve clogged due to poor quality water. The valve may burn out due to voltage surges and other electrical problems. If the heating element is broken, the washing program is not activated and water is not drawn. Another reason is a faulty control board. Not everyone can deal with complex electronics on their own, so most often the only correct way out is to contact a service center.

If the water is in the Electrolux washing machine, it does not drain. There are also certain reasons for this malfunction.

Most often, it's all about a clogged drain filter, pipes or sewer. Therefore, these elements require careful cleaning. These actions are not repairs and relate to maintenance work that you can perform yourself.

If there is no blockage, it is imperative to check the pump or drain pump, which is constantly in contact with water. If a malfunction is found, the device must be replaced. Often the pressure switch, that is, the sensor responsible for the water level, fails. An incorrect signal supplied by it leads to incorrect operation of the control module. Another reason may be a faulty board or a software failure, which are repaired in specialized service centers.

The Electrolux washing machine begins to emit extraneous sounds in the form of a creak, crackle, noise and others.

This can happen for the following reasons:

• Loose drum pulley fastening, accompanied by a jerky whistle and crackling sound. Such fasteners are unscrewed and re-installed on the sealant. A pulled pulley must be replaced.
• A foreign object has fallen between the drum and the washing tub, as evidenced by a hum and creak during operation.
• Failed bearings are indicated by vibration and hum, like an airliner. At first, under the influence of moisture, the seals that seal the shaft wear out, and then the bearings themselves begin to rust and break. As a rule, bearings and seals are replaced at the same time.

In addition, springs and shock absorbers can be worn out, causing the entire unit to rumble. In this case, the reservoir is displaced and tilted, therefore, during operation, it knocks against the inner walls. The same happens when the counterweight fails. All defective elements are subject to mandatory replacement.

Before you start repairing Electrolux washing machines, especially with your own hands, you need to study a lot of information that concerns the features of the device of a particular model of the machine. Then you need to correctly identify the cause of the malfunction, and then eliminate it so as not to aggravate the problem. Like any home appliances, Electrolux washers have a number of technical weaknesses, which ultimately result in typical breakdowns. In the process of research, we will study the symptoms of breakdowns, their causes, and also tell you how to eliminate these breakdowns.

By the symptoms of defects in Electrolux washing machines, we mean any external manifestation of a malfunction, for example, extraneous sounds during operation, too long work, inability to perform any stage of the washing program, and so on. It is the symptoms of breakdown that force the user to act (call the wizard or look for the cause on his own).

But the problem is that some malfunctions occur before symptoms appear and hardly manifest themselves. For example, wearing rubber pads will not show themselves in any way until a leak occurs. But let's return to the typical symptoms of malfunctions of Electrolux washing machines, to begin with, we will list them, but in the subsequent paragraphs we will deal with their detailed decoding.

• The machine washes in cold water, does not heat it up, even if the program specifies otherwise.
• The machine cannot fill up the water.
• The washing machine cannot drain the waste water
• The machine does not go to the rinse cycle or skips it without rinsing the laundry.
• The washing machine does not spin.
• The machine cannot pick up the powder from the cuvette and washes without it.
• The washing machine does not turn on or turns on every other time.
• The machine, when turned on, almost immediately knocks out the machine.

For your information! These symptoms are found on Electrolux washing machines more often than others, which is why we are considering them, but in fact there are much more such symptoms.

The washing cycle assumes that the Electrolux washing machine will fill and drain water for the entire duration of the program. One portion of water is required for washing, another for rinsing. She will also need to drain the water after spinning, and if there is a drying mode, then after it. But what happens if the machine cannot fill the tank with water, then the machine will not be able to execute the program and will freeze.

In a similar situation and in many others, the manufacturer insured himself by providing an error recognition system. In the event of a malfunction, the washing machine will display an error code on the display, which can be deciphered using the user's instructions and understand what exactly is broken. In particular if the machine does not fill in water, an error E11 should pop up on the screen.

So, if the Electrolux washer does not fill with water, then there can be at least three reasons:

1. the filler valve does not work;
2. no water supply;
3. the water filter installed in front of or on the inlet hose is heavily clogged.

What can you do in such a case with your own hands? You need to start with the simplest thing, check if there is water in the tap, perhaps we are not talking about a malfunction at all. After that, you should check whether a filter for water purification is installed near the inlet hose (or on it). If it is there, it is necessary to shut off the water on the riser pipes, and then carefully unscrew this filter and clean it. Some manufacturers' water filters cannot be cleaned; in this case, you will need to buy a new filter and replace the old one..

Note! Flow-through filters are good because dirt will not pass through them into the machine and will not arrange a blockage inside, but there is a problem, they need to be changed in time. If you forget, the filter can become clogged with dirt, stopping the water supply to the machine.

If the problem is not in the water supply or in the filter, then you need to check the inlet valve. To carry out such a check, you will need to use a multimeter, some have problems using this device. But if you figure it out, the rest is simple.

It may turn out that the machine can fill in water, but not drain. In this case, the wash program is activated, the wash ends, but the rinse does not start, since the waste water will remain in the tub. In this case, the problem is either with the drain pump or with a blockage in the drain hose. It is not difficult to replace the drain pump with your own hands, it is important to follow the instructions offered by experts. Cleaning the drain hose is also quite simple, and let's start with it.

• Drain the water from the tank of the Electrolux washing machine through the small emergency drain hose located at the drain filter at the front in the lower right corner of the machine body.
• Disconnect the drain hose from the machine body and from the drain pipe or siphon.
• Thoroughly rinse the hose under running water, if there is a cleaning cable, use it, if not, you can clean the blockage with a piece of stiff wire.
• Replace the hose and test the machine.

After 5-7 years of operation, Electrolux washing machines begin to wash worse. When you start looking for the reason, it turns out that the powder that we pour into the cuvette, almost all of it remains there. It turns out that washing takes place virtually without powder, what is the problem?

When collecting water for washing, the washing machine must pass the stream through the compartment for the powder, so that the powder, along with the water, goes into the tank. There is a valve next to the cuvette that must open for water to enter the powder compartment. So, if the valve is worn out, clogged with dirt and water stone, it may simply not open. What to do?

1. Remove the detergent drawer.
2. Remove the top wall of the washer.
3. Locate the valve at the base of the powder cuvette niche and inspect it.
4. If the valve is worn out, it needs to be replaced with a new one, if cleaning can be done, then do it.
5. Replace the lid, insert the powder cuvette and check the operation of the machine.

If the washing machine does not rinse or squeeze out water, even with a separate rinse program, this may be a signal that the control board is broken. Do-it-yourself control board repair is almost impossible, especially if you do not have the skills to repair electronics - contact a specialist.

If you can not only start the washing machine, but also turn it on at all, the problem is probably either in the “power on” button or in the network cable. In any case, in order to check both versions, you will have to use a multimeter and measure the resistance on the button contacts, as well as on the wires of the network cable. To get to the on / off button, you need to do the following.

• Take out the flask for the powder, in the niche on the right side there will be a fastener holding the instrument panel, it must be unscrewed.
• Unscrew the other bolts holding the panel and remove it.
• Disconnect the plastic holders that attach the front to the board.
• We find the contacts of the on / off button and measure the resistance.
• If the problem is in the contacts, then they will need to be cleaned and soldered, and then assembled in the reverse order.

In the Electrolux washing machine, problems may arise with the network cable. Most often the contacts at the base of the cable become loose, because of this, power either does not enter the machine, or it does not come in intermittently, which is even more dangerous, since this can cause a short circuit in the control board. How to check the power cord? The simplest thing is to connect the test leads of the multimeter to the prongs of the power cord plug. If you find a malfunction, you will need to get to the connection of the power cord and the surge protector, how to do this?

1. Remove the back cover of the washing machine.
2. There will be a protective pad at the base of the power cord, detach it.
3. We check the reliability of the connection of the contacts of the power filter and the wires of the network cable.
4. If the wires were connected securely, then we disconnect the wire and check it for breakdown with a multimeter.
5. The broken wire needs to be replaced, it is best to buy a new original network cable and put it instead of the old one.
6. We assemble the machine and check its work.

Important! When working with the power cord, never insert the plug into the outlet to avoid electric shock.

It may happen that the washing machine starts, the washing program is set, but as soon as you start the program and there is a load in the electrical circuit, the machine knocks out and the machine turns off.In this case, contact a professional electrician immediately, as the problem is most likely in the electrical circuit. Perhaps the outlet is faulty or the wire cross-section is not designed for such a load, in general, remember one thing - it is absolutely impossible to operate the machine with such a malfunction!

Another malfunction that can often be found on Electrolux washing machines is the breakdown of the heating element. It is quite difficult to confuse this breakdown with any other, since it manifests itself very clearly. Replacing the heating element of a washing machine is far from the most difficult thing and it is quite possible to carry it out with your own hands. The main thing is to do everything carefully and in accordance with the advice of experts.

Before changing the heating element, do not forget to check it with a multimeter, starting with the temperature sensor, perhaps the problem is not in him at all, but in the control board. This happens in rare cases, but this version cannot be dismissed in any case.

In conclusion, we note that the repair of Electrolux washing machines in a number of cases can be done with your own hands, especially if these hands grow from the right place. In some cases, of course, it is better to contact specialists and pay a lot of money, but very often you can do everything yourself and save a lot of cash.