Washing machine electrolux ews 1105 DIY repair

The Electrolux company is one of the most popular in Russia, thanks to the production of household appliances. If you wash clothes in a typewriter of this brand, you need to know how to repair the Electrolux washing machine at home. Start by finding the problem and end up fixing it. How to do it? Recommendations of specialists will help.

Washing machines Electrolux Inspire, Electrolux Intuition and other models are equipped with electronic control. Therefore, it is much easier for the user to find the place of failure, because the self-diagnosis system displays an error code on the display (E11, E13, E21, E23, E24,, E31, E32, E33, E34, E36, E37, E38, E39, E3A, E41, E42, E43, E44, E45, E51, E52, E53, E54, E55, E56, E58, E59, E5A, E5B, E5C, E5D, E5F, E61, E62, E66, E68, E71, E74, E82, E83, E84, E85, E91, E93, E94, E95, E96, E97, E98, E99, E9A, EA2, EA5, EA6, EB1, EB2, EB3, EA3, EA4, EBE, EBF, EC1, EC2, EF1, EF2, EH1, EH2, EH3, EHE, EHF, E35, E57, EF3, EF4, EF5, E92, EA1). Even if the equipment is not equipped with a display, indicators indicate a malfunction.

Let's consider the main error codes:

• E11 - water is not poured into the system.
• E21 - there is no drainage of water from the tank.
• E39 - the pressure switch is out of order.
• Е41 – Е45 - the hatch door does not close.
• E5A - malfunctions of the electronic unit.
• E66 - breakdown of the heating element, heating system.
• E71 - thermistor does not work.
• E85 - the drain pump has broken down.
• EB1 – EB3 - voltage problems.

There are still a lot of codes in Electrolux washers. We have indicated those that are most common.

Not all faults are indicated by symbols on the display. Some can be identified by external signs.

Video (click to play).

• Washing machine (CM) does not turn on... The reason may be a damaged socket, start button, electronics module.
• RCD is constantly triggered... Breakdown on the case or short circuit of the heating element, engine.
• Washer does not fill with water... There is a blockage in the intake system, filter, hose. Possible inlet valve malfunction.
• Water does not leave the tank... If the equipment does not drain the water, there is a blockage in the drain pipe, pump, hose. Pump windings burned out.
• The machine makes a lot of noise during operation... A foreign object is stuck between the drum and the tub, the bearings are worn out, and the laundry is knotted to one side.
• No water heating... Problem with heating element, thermal sensor, triac control.
• The hatch door does not close... The tongue is worn out, the handle or the sunroof locking device (UBL) is broken.
• The drum does not rotate, the device does not spin the laundry... The brushes of the motor are worn out, the drive belt has come off the pulley, the engine is faulty.

Top loaders are more likely to suffer from wear on the drum mounts, which can be compared to installing a new bearing. We have to completely disassemble the unit. There are also such breakdowns:

• Top cover corrosion. The problem is in the specifics of the water supply through the top. Initially, the liquid passes through the cover, so the metal rusts quickly, which requires a complete replacement of this part.
• Rubbing the cuff of the hatch. Through the hole, water flows directly onto the electronic lock, which disables it.

It is better to entrust the repair of the Electrolux top-loading washing machine to a professional. Inside the case, the parts are very closely spaced, so repairs are carried out almost by touch. If you want to do the work yourself, the video will help you:

Have you decided on the place of breakage of the front model? Then start the repair yourself.

Observe safety precautions when disassembling and repairing.

Be sure to disconnect the machine from the mains and communications.

Now proceed to the inspection and diagnosis.

After loading the laundry, the wash cycle does not start, the indicators do not light up? Check:

• Power cord and plug. Did you notice the damage? Do not try to isolate them, the parts must be completely replaced.

• An outlet.Connect another device to it to test the functionality.
• Control Panel. Detergent, rinse aid often gets on the keys. So contacts are oxidized or buttons stick. Remove the control panel for inspection (see below for how to disassemble).
• Network filter. Perhaps its contacts or the element itself have burned out.

How to check the filter and buttons:

• Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws at the back.

• There is a filter near the wall. Are burns and swellings visible? Replace part.

• Disconnect the wiring, unscrew the mount.
• Remove the tray to inspect the keys.
• Remove the panel fixing screws.
• There are buttons behind the module. Replacing them is easy: press from the outside, take out the element and install a new one.

The door must be tightly closed during washing. Therefore, there are two types of locks: mechanical and electronic. The first is the tongue and hole where the fixation takes place. The second is blocked at the electronic level (UBL), while a click is heard.

Inspect the door handle for damage. If the tongue does not reach the hole, tighten the hinge bolts. To diagnose UBL, it is necessary to inspect its contacts for damage and burns:

• Fold back the sealing rubber.
• Pry the clamp with a screwdriver, remove it from the place.
• Remove the two screws.
• Reach your hand and remove the blocker.

• Disconnect the contacts if there is a problem.

• Replace in reverse order.

During one wash cycle, the machine picks up and drains the liquid several times. After loading, you can't hear the noise of the fence, but the error code is lit on the board? You can clean the tract with your own hands:

• Close the shut-off valve.
• Disconnect the hose from the CMA body.

• There is a mesh filter behind it.

• Remove it with pliers.
• Rinse under the tap.
• Also clean the inlet hose.
• Remove the top cover.
• An inlet valve is installed at the rear wall.

• Call his contacts with a multimeter. Normally, it will show 2-4 ohms.
• In the event of a breakdown, unscrew the fasteners, unfasten the wiring and install a serviceable valve.

If the equipment stops with water in the tank, the drain will need to be cleaned.

• Below, under the loading door, there is a door. It can be solid and fastened with latches or bolts.
• Open the door, unscrew the filter counterclockwise.

• Remove debris, rinse the part.
• On Electrolux Intuition and other models, the pump can be accessed through a rear door.

• Remove the screws around the perimeter of the cover.
• A branch pipe and a hose are connected to the pump. Loosen their clamps, remove from their place and clean.
• Disconnect the other part of the hose from the drain and the siphon and also clean it.

The pump is checked last. Examine the impeller. Often threads and hair are wound around it. If the mechanical part is defective, the pump must be replaced.

During operation, the drive belt wears out and stretches. In "Electrolux" typewriters, it is located behind the rear panel. Replace the belt if it falls off. Install it first on the motor pulley and then on the tank pulley. When worn, the part must be replaced.

Inspect the engine and its brushes. It is the brushes that are used to transfer current to the motor rotor. Their graphite rods wear out over time. Pull the brushes out of the housing by removing the contacts. If the wear is more than half, install new elements. It is not difficult to buy them in the store.

If the motor malfunctions, do it yourself. How to do this is shown in the video:

It is not difficult to determine the problem, because the wash takes place in cold water. In this case, things are poorly washed, an unpleasant odor appears. In the article you will find information "How to clean the washing machine from odor, dirt and scale".

It is necessary to check the entire circuit: heating element - thermal sensor - main board. Electrolux units hide the heater behind the back wall, so repairs can be done by yourself.

• After dismantling the back wall, you will see the terminals of the heating element at the bottom.

• Disconnect his wires.
• Remove the thermal sensor from the case.
• Unscrew the center nut (not all the way) and push the bolt inward.

The main enemy of the heater is scale. Remove plaque from the part. In case of breakdown, install a similar option. The thermistor cannot be repaired in the event of a malfunction. For installation, install the replacement in the heating element housing.

As soon as you turn on the equipment, how does the protective machine knock out? This is a serious problem and you should not try to start the clipper again. The matter may be in the breakdown of the heating element to the case or in the short circuit of the engine. With such a problem, it is better to consult a specialist. For this time, disconnect the equipment from the network.

If the CMA housing vibrates and rattles, make sure it is properly installed. The washer must be on a firm, level surface. Level the feet of the machine.

Look into the loading door. Is the laundry strayed to one side? This problem is called "imbalance" - the drum begins to beat against the walls of the housing. Distribute items evenly inside.

A common cause of noise is a foreign object between the tub and drum.

How did he get there? Items forgotten in pockets, items of clothing penetrate the cuff or pass into the hole of the drum. It is possible to remove the part through the opening of the heating element. Disassembly steps are described above. When the heater is dismantled, stick your hand through the hole, scrolling the tank, find the object.

Is the work accompanied by a strong hum and rattle? Bearing worn out. For replacement, you will need to completely disassemble the washing machine. Details are shown in the video:

The reason for absolutely all technical problems can be the control module. He manages the nodes and parts. Therefore, if you have ruled out the rest of the options, and the work has not been restored, inspect the board. For repairs, contact the master.

SMA "Electrolux" works for 10-15 years, not because it does not break, but because it can be repaired. There are enough service centers in the cities, stores have replacement parts. It's up to you to follow the recommendations for self-repair or call the workshop.

Among the many brands of washing machines, Electrolux is in constant demand and popularity. Modern models are distinguished by wide functionality and convenient control. But, in any technique, sooner or later, various malfunctions and breakdowns occur. You have to contact warranty service centers or try to repair your Electrolux washing machine with your own hands. Self-diagnostic capabilities allow you to identify a breakdown and take timely measures to avoid more serious consequences.

A similar situation occurs quite often. First of all, this may be due to the lack of electricity. For various reasons, knocks out a circuit breaker, mainly due to a short circuit. Sometimes the residual current device is triggered when there is a current leakage to the washing machine. RCD tripping often occurs due to poor-quality wiring. Lack of power is often due to a faulty outlet.

Another reason is often a surge protector. For testing purposes, it is recommended to plug the washing machine directly into a power outlet. Sometimes the cord itself from the machine is faulty, constantly experiencing mechanical stress. A multimeter is used to detect a breakdown. If there is a break, it is recommended to completely replace the wire, since twisting will not provide reliable and stable operation.

Quite often the power button fails. In some Electrolux models, it is directly powered. When checking, the washing machine must be de-energized. The functionality of the button is checked using a multimeter turned on in buzzer mode. During the test, the button is alternately switched on and off. In the ON position, the multimeter will beep, which indicates its working condition. In the off position, the button will not be detected.

Sometimes the problem is a faulty noise filter. The filter dampens the electromagnetic waves generated by the washing machine. If it breaks down, the electric current stops flowing through the circuit and the washing machine does not turn on. The filter is checked by dialing. At its input there are three wires - phase, neutral and ground, at the output - only phase and zero. If there is voltage at the input, but not at the output, then the filter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

The most serious reason for not turning on the Electrolux washing machine is associated with a malfunction of the control module. Replacing the entire device is very expensive and the control unit can be repaired by yourself. However, it is far from always possible to do this at home, therefore it is in this case that it is recommended to use the services of a service center.

Most washing machines are installed in the bathroom, therefore, in accordance with the PUE, they must be protected from leakage currents using a separate RCD or differential machine. However, situations often arise when protective devices start to work constantly for no apparent reason. There are several of the most probable options due to which such an unplanned actuation occurs.

First of all, triggering can occur as a result of incorrect connection of the differential machine. This happens when attempts are made to a zeroing device, in the absence of a grounding wire. In another case, the phase is passed through the device, and the working zero is simply duplicated or connected directly to the common zero bus. According to the rules, the current of the phase and neutral conductors passes through the internal circuit of the protective equipment. Part of the current passing through the common zero bus is perceived by the RCD as a leak, so the power is immediately turned off.

Another reason is a defective protective device. Before checking the RCD, all outgoing wires are disconnected. After that, voltage is applied to the switched on RCD or differential machine and the TEST button is pressed. As a result, the protective equipment should be disabled. If this does not happen, then the RCD is faulty and must be replaced.

If the RCD is working properly, you should carefully inspect the washing machine itself and assess its condition. This applies to old units, since it is they who have damaged internal wiring, worn insulation of the electric motor windings, deformed housings of internal parts and other breakdowns that can cause current leakage. The check is done with a multimeter by checking the resistance between the machine body and the plug electrodes.

If all the previous checks did not reveal any faults, then the reason is most likely a faulty electrical wiring. It can be pierced by a nail or self-tapping screw, too tightly packed in a panel or junction boxes. The ingress of moisture is quite often observed. These malfunctions are especially pronounced when the insulation is damaged or worn out. If no damage can be found, the entire cable line must be replaced.

A characteristic feature of modern Electrolux washing machines is the absence of dependence on the presence or absence of hot water in the water supply system. The unit heats it up to the required temperature by itself. Therefore, the situation becomes rather unpleasant when the collected water does not heat up and remains cold.

The fault can be detected approximately 30 minutes after the start of the wash. It is enough to put your hand on the glass of the sunroof, and if it is cold, then the water does not heat up.

• The main cause of the malfunction is considered to be the incorrect installation of the washing machine, when the heights of the pump and sewage system do not correlate with each other and do not provide a normal drain. In this case, water entering the tank immediately leaves the machine through the drain.The heating itself occurs, but due to the constant flow of cold water, it simply does not have time to warm up.
• The wrong wash mode is selected. Some of the programs are not designed for strong water heating and the heat will not be felt through the sunroof.
• Breakdown of the water heater - heating element, after which the machine simply stops heating the water. This is mainly due to the formation of scale, leading to overheating and burnout of the heating element. It often fails under the influence of voltage surges in the electrical network.
• Sometimes the heating stops as a result of the failure of the temperature sensor. This leads to an automatic stop of water heating in order to avoid overheating of the heating element.

The greatest problems are created by a faulty control module that controls all processes, including water heating. In this case, independent actions can only aggravate the situation, therefore it is recommended to contact the service center.

If water is not collected, do not panic and immediately run to the service center. First of all, you need to try to figure it out on your own and check for the presence of certain reasons.

First of all, you should make sure that the water supply is working properly. Sometimes there is simply no necessary pressure in the urban network. In some cases, the owners forget to open the tap that supplies water to the washing machine, which was closed after the previous wash.

If the water supply system is working properly, then the reasons for the lack of water in the tank are related to the washing machine itself. This could be an inlet valve clogged due to poor quality water. The valve may burn out due to voltage surges and other electrical problems. If the heating element is broken, the washing program is not activated and water is not drawn. Another reason is a faulty control board. Not everyone can deal with complex electronics on their own, so most often the only correct way out is to contact a service center.

If the water is in the Electrolux washing machine, it does not drain. There are also certain reasons for this malfunction.

Most often, it's all about a clogged drain filter, pipes or sewer. Therefore, these elements require careful cleaning. These actions are not repairs and relate to maintenance work that you can perform yourself.

If there is no blockage, it is imperative to check the pump or drain pump, which is constantly in contact with water. If a malfunction is found, the device must be replaced. Often the pressure switch, that is, the sensor responsible for the water level, fails. An incorrect signal supplied by it leads to incorrect operation of the control module. Another reason may be a faulty board or a software failure, which are repaired in specialized service centers.

The Electrolux washing machine begins to emit extraneous sounds in the form of a creak, crackle, noise and others.

This can happen for the following reasons:

• Loose drum pulley fastening, accompanied by a jerky whistle and crackling sound. Such fasteners are unscrewed and re-installed on the sealant. A pulled pulley must be replaced.
• A foreign object has fallen between the drum and the washing tub, as evidenced by a hum and creak during operation.
• Failed bearings are indicated by vibration and hum, like an airliner. At first, under the influence of moisture, the seals that seal the shaft wear out, and then the bearings themselves begin to rust and break. As a rule, bearings and seals are replaced at the same time.

In addition, springs and shock absorbers can be worn out, causing the entire unit to rumble. In this case, the reservoir is displaced and tilted, therefore, during operation, it knocks against the inner walls. The same happens when the counterweight fails. All defective elements are subject to mandatory replacement.

Washing machines Electrolux have their own characteristic malfunctions due to the technical features of their design (with vertical loading or horizontal loading). Therefore, do-it-yourself repair of these machines is possible only after thorough theoretical preparation and a detailed study of the device of a specific model.

Many modern washing machines have an error recognition system. When a malfunction is detected, they show an error code on the display, the decoding of which is given in the instructions:

1. Water is not being drawn into the tank.
2. Dirty water does not drain.
3. The machine skips the rinsing step.
4. The machine does not wring out.
5. The loaded detergent remains in the tray after washing.
6. The water in the tank does not heat up.
7. The machine is bad or does not turn on at all.

All of the above breakdowns occur with other brands of washing machines, but for Electrolux they are the most frequent, especially for top-loading machines.