Washing machine electrolux do-it-yourself repair how to remove a drum

In detail: do-it-yourself electrolux washing machine repair how to remove a drum from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

People buy washing machines with top loading much less often than with front loading - this is a fact.

The tightness of the parts of the machine makes it difficult to disassemble
Increased vibration during spinning
On some machines it is not possible to level the rear feet
Corrosion of the top cover from moisture
Spontaneous opening of the drum flaps in case of imbalance

Narrow and deep, and fits perfectly into confined spaces in the bathtub, closets or kitchen
No need to bend over to load the laundry
Ability to interrupt the program and add laundry
Child safety. Control panel location.

Features and nuances for self-repair of vertical units:

The device contains the same elements (pressure switch, water intake valve, drum, tank, control board, pump, and so on).
The axis of the drum is structurally made on two bearings; a self-positioning sensor is sometimes located on the tank (fixing the drum with the flaps up).

We will show the dismantling of units using the example of Electrolux:

1.From the sides, using a screwdriver, release the control panel
2.Pull the plastic panel up and slide towards you
3. We tilt at a small angle towards ourselves to dismantle the wires from the board connectors
4. Take out the panel

To remove the electronic control module, disconnect the remaining wires and unscrew the screws shown in the figure.
For quick and correct assembly, take pictures of the connection points of the wire loops.

To remove the water inlet valve, disconnect the rubber hoses from the clamps and dismantle them.
Detach the wires and from the outside press on the holes to push out the valve.

To remove the side panels, unscrew a few screws, do not forget to save the washers for grounding the case.
Bend the wall from below with your hand and slide it down.

After removing the two side panels, access to the screws for dismantling the front panel appeared.

To remove the NTC sensors and self-positioning the DSP drum, it is enough to remove the right wall and dismantle them.

Frequent malfunction - there is no way to change the program .:

Example - Hotpoint Ariston ARTL 1047.

Many "craftsmen" sin that the control module is to blame for everything. But no!

It is enough to unscrew the two screws from the back and remove the control panel.

This very cracked handle is the culprit. Use the metal ring (the plug from the antenna for example).

By squeezing the plastic handle, the ring will prevent programs from skipping.

Blown up top of the Indesite vertical, Ariston:

Video (click to play).

001 - control knob 002 - white on-off / reset buttons 003 - white control panel 004 - bitron switch 005 - function keys 007 - display
008 - cover handle 010 - dispenser unlocking lever 011 - dispenser hook spring 012 - disengagement button dispenser 016 - cover support
018 - partition with shock absorber 021 - door interlock device 022 - white dispenser 023 - siphon cover 026 - control panel wiring 027 - 8-pos. potentiometer

There is an opinion that two drum supports instead of one are good.

This is not the case, and in the case of "vertical" it is just a forced engineering decision. The service life of the drum bearings does not increase for a minute.

If the screws are hard to loosen, heat them up with a blowtorch.

Use a special grease for oil seals - Litol-24, TsIATIM-221, SHRUS-4M, etc.

On "Kandy", in order to change bearings, you need to disassemble the whole machine to the screw! And what is the wild tightness in the depths of the "vertical". Sometimes you have to do everything literally by touch.

Often, during the washing process, the machine begins to emit incomprehensible sounds, and strong vibration also occurs. Such phenomena can be caused by the fact that a small object has fallen into the drum units. Most often these are underwear bones, hardware, buttons and buttons. Such a trifle can cause serious damage. As a rule, first of all, the drum oil seal, the drum itself or the washing machine tank are damaged.

Anything caught in the drum unit may cause the washing machine to stop and break. To remove the debris, it is necessary to disassemble the unit. However, it is worth considering that there are some nuances. Remove the drum very carefully so as not to touch other parts of the device. As a rule, professional craftsmen are engaged in such repairs. If it is not possible to turn to specialists for help, then you can try to solve the problem yourself. The main thing is to adhere to the recommendations described below.

See also - Washing machine tank repair: repairing a leak

To fix the problem, you need to disassemble the washing machine. This will require the following tools:

Screwdriver.
Nippers.
A set of asterisks.
Ticks.
A set of screwdrivers and hexagons.
Ratchet and heads.
Hammer.

If certain parts are planned to be replaced, they must be purchased in advance. It should be noted that it is not so easy to disassemble the washing machine without tools. Therefore, they also need to be prepared in advance.

See also - Washing machine leaks from below - causes and repair of a leak

This is the most common modification of washing machines. First of all, the device must be disconnected from the power supply, the drain hose must be removed from the sewage system. Only then can you start disassembling the unit. To begin with, it is worth removing the back cover by unscrewing all the screws. The same is required to be done with the front of the device.

Carefully remove the container intended for washing powder by unscrewing all the hardware. Then you can remove the control panel. You don't have to take it off at all. It is enough to fix it a little to the side so that it does not interfere with work. If you nevertheless decide to remove the panel, then it is worth taking a picture in which all the wires and their connections will be visible. Otherwise, you will not be able to connect them correctly.

Now you need to remove the hatch cuff. To do this, just pull on the spring. It is also necessary to remove the bottom panel. All hardware should be unscrewed. The front wall of the unit must be removed together with the hatch. That's all. The unit is disassembled. Now you need to remove the tank.

First of all, it is worth disconnecting everything from the tank: shock absorbers, wiring, pipes, counterweight. Unscrew the central bolt located on the motor cover. In this case, it is necessary to hold the drum itself with your hand. Then you can remove the washing machine motor.

It should be noted that removing the drum is a complex procedure that cannot be rushed. In this case, it is necessary to unscrew all the hardware and carefully remove the drum so that the parts of the device located next to it are not damaged.

Once removed, the tank can be disassembled into several parts. It is worth noting that in many cases its parts are glued together very reliably and firmly. Even specialized services refuse to repair certain models of washing machines because of this feature.

Top loaders offer several advantages. First of all, they are easy to use and easy to download. In addition, the drum of such models is fixed in two places. This significantly increases the service life of the device. This technique is disassembled as follows:

It is necessary to unscrew all the hardware located on the front and rear walls.
The right side panel should be pushed back a little and then carefully removed.
After that, you need to disconnect all the wires and remove the hardware located around the plastic cover.
The same must be done with the second side.
After that, you need to unscrew the hardware that holds the shaft.
That's all. It remains to close the tank doors, and then remove the tank itself.

In the process, it is worth taking pictures so that you do not get confused when assembling the unit. If the plastic cover is soldered, you need to pull it towards you, and then cut it with a drill.

If you need to disassemble the drum of the Electrolux washing machine with your own hands, be prepared for hard work that will take more than one hour of your time. This is in case the drum is still inside the equipment and you need to get to it. If the drum has already been taken out, you can safely read the last section of this article, it describes the whole process.

To disassemble the case, you will need a screwdriver or screwdriver; you will have to unscrew a lot of screws. Also prepare the pliers, they will be needed to remove the rubber cuff from the drum. If the entire tool is assembled, you can proceed directly to disassembly. To start, unplug the equipment from the mains, in order to avoid an accident, many components may remain energized for a long time.

The back of the machine is removed first, it is held in place by a few screws, unscrew them and set the metal plate aside.
You can remove the top cover, there are two bolts at the back, on top, on special plastic fasteners. As soon as you remove them, slide the cover back, freeing it from the grooves, it will easily come off.
Electronic control panel queue. You need to start by removing and removing the powder tray, just pull it out.
There are also several screws under the tray, by unscrewing them you can start removing the panel.
Using a flat screwdriver, you need to snap off all the latches, they are laid in special grooves in the case. Here, accuracy is extremely important, the latches must remain intact.

The wires and from the panel go inside the equipment and are fastened with terminals, which will have to be disconnected to avoid damage to the wires.
The front part of the case can be removed together with the hatch, two screws on the top under the control panel and two under the lower protection can be easily unscrewed, but this is half the battle. To separate the hatch, you need to free it from the cuff without damaging the rubber, otherwise it will start to leak water and will have to be completely replaced. The clamp is located around the entire perimeter of the cuff, it is he who is responsible for fixing it in place. Feel for a small spring on the metal wire and pull it towards you with a little force. Pliers may be needed at this stage if the metal is too tight.
When this part is out of the way, you can remove the drum.
At the back you will see a large nut, right in the center of the drum, as well as several weights that prevent the device from swinging during washing and spinning, all this also needs to be dismantled.
The contacts of the electric motor and the ten remain, unhook them and the drum is free.

Most likely, you needed to disassemble the drum in order to remove the worn bearing, it is not so easy to do this. Prepare a hammer, preferably even two, large and medium-sized, as well as a chisel or a long, heavy bolt with which you will knock out the bearing.

This process is already intuitive, especially for men who are faced with car repairs, it will take patience and an accurate blow to knock out the bearing. Gradually moving from bottom to top, you need to bring the part to the top. You will greatly facilitate your task if you buy a special wrench for removing bearings, these are called pullers for dismantling.

It's important to know: I missed the process of disassembling the drum body, as I thought it would not be difficult to unscrew a few tightening bolts, however ... ... on some models of washing machines the plastic case is non-separable, it is welded at high temperatures. You should not despair in such a situation, just cut it along the weld with a hacksaw, and during the assembly process, weld or glue it with a reliable adhesive mass.

Replacing the bearing in the Electrolux washing machine has many features, but in general, you will have to do everything the same as in the case of producing a similar repair for washing machines of other brands. The main difference is that the tanks of Electrolux washing machines are collapsible, which means that the replacement process will take place much faster, you will not have to saw anything. In this article we will discuss the signs by which you can distinguish a broken bearing from a breakdown of another type, we will tell you how to get to the broken part, having disassembled the entire "home assistant", we will study the nuances of removing the damaged bearing and installing a new one.

Replacing a bearing in an Electrolux washing machine is a very laborious work associated with a complete disassembly of the washing machine. It is only necessary to take on this work, being sure that it is the bearing that has broken, and not some other part. You can finally be convinced of this, you can only partially disassemble the body of the washing machine, but with a high degree of certainty this can be established by indirect signs. The main sign of bearing failure is knocking, grinding and other extraneous noises during washing and spinning.

It is better to replace the bearing even if the oil seal is simply damaged.

The knocking and rattling should be strong enough and if this is the case, it is necessary to inspect the rear wall of the tank in the area of the large pulley. A damaged bearing will surely give itself out as dirty oil drips, and if you find this, then repair cannot be avoided. For work, we need a fairly simple tool:

screwdrivers (flat, curly);
pliers;
rubber mallet;
metal hairpin;
ratchet with a set of heads;
awl;
hammer;
bolt 16 mm;
car bearing puller;
liquid WD-40;
silicone sealant.

We also need to acquire bearings. To do this, you need to rewrite the designation of your model of the Electrolux washing machine and go to the spare parts store with it. The seller must know which bearings are installed on it.

If this is the first time you disassemble the Electrolux washing machine, then you will probably face the problem of dismantling its case. The fact is that the body of this machine gives the impression of being non-separable. No, at first glance, everything is fine, there are a lot of fasteners on the back and front, which seem to hold the lid, back and front walls. But when you start unscrewing the screws one by one, it turns out that you have not made any progress in removing at least something, except, perhaps, the top cover - the case, as it was a monolith, remains. One gets the impression that it is simply impossible to disassemble this car.

In fact, the body of the Electrolux washing machine is collapsible, it is just unusually disassembled. Basically, it consists of two halves: a front wall with a part of the bottom and side walls and a back wall with a part of the bottom and side walls. To remove the rear half, it is necessary not only to unscrew the fasteners, but also to pry on the special latches, which are located along the perimeter of the seam (the joint of the two halves of the case).

Before removing the back of the case, remove the plastic plug holding the inlet hose and flow filter, otherwise it can simply be torn off. Be careful with the power cord as well.

In addition to the latches, screws hold the halves of the Electrolux washing machine. They are screwed into the edges of the wide crossbeam that connects the two side walls. The screws need to be unscrewed, after which nothing will interfere with moving the rear half of the case back.Next, we do the following.

We grasp with a screwdriver and remove the collar of the hatch cuff.
We take the edges of the cuff and wrap them inside the hatch.
We remove the pressure switch, not forgetting about its tube, disconnect the branch pipe coming from the powder receiver.
We remove the drive belt, remove the wires from the engine and from the heating element.
We turn off the engine, remove the pump and drain hose.
We remove the previously disconnected filling pipes.
We unscrew and remove the counterweights.
We remove the fasteners that hold the front panel, and then remove it together with the electronic module. It will not be possible to remove it completely, since the many wires that go to it will interfere. But the fact that it will hang on these wires is also no big deal, you just need to be careful.
We take out the shock absorber mountings, unscrew the shock absorbers.

If nothing else prevents us from pulling the tank out of the car body, then we carefully grab its walls and pull it back, if everything is normal, the tank and the drum will simply fall out. Well, we removed the main unit of the washing machine, now we need to disassemble it in order to finally get to the bearings.

The bearing for the washing machine is not too difficult to remove, but we have not yet reached it and the main obstacle, at this stage, is a large pulley, which is screwed to the back wall of the tank. Take an asterisk screwdriver and try to unscrew the bolt.

The first time we are unlikely to be able to do this, since this fastener from the factory tightens very well, and over time it still tends to "stick", so we will not suffer, we will spray with WD-40 grease and wait 20-30 minutes ... Next, take a wooden block, attach it with its end to the head of the bolt, and apply it several times with a hammer at the other end. After that, we try to unscrew the bolt again, it should work out. We pull off the pulley and remove it to the side. Now we will unscrew the screws holding the tank halves and disassemble the tank.

If, after unscrewing the screws, the tank does not disassemble immediately, insert a flat screwdriver into the gap between its halves and help a little. Just try not to damage the fragile plastic edges, otherwise you will run into a replacement tank.

Work with the bearing must start from the inside of the tank. We take a flat screwdriver, pry on the oil seal (or its remnants) and remove it. Using pliers and a screwdriver, we tear out the retaining ring from the old bearing, and then fill in the WD-40 bearing. Now we turn over the half of the tank with the outside, take a pre-prepared metal pin and, using it as a punch, carefully knock out the bearing.

First, with fine emery paper, and then with an ordinary rag, we clean the place for a new bearing. With the help of a mallet we drive the new bearing into place, if it does not immediately "sit down", use a wooden block and a hammer, just do not strike too hard.

We install the retaining ring, not forgetting to lubricate it with a special bearing grease. We add a little special grease to the bearing, remove the excess with a clean, dry cloth. We install the oil seal, and then proceed to the assembly of the Electrolux washing machine in the reverse order. If you also need information about how replacing a bearing in a washing machine Zanussi, you can read about it in the corresponding publication.

Summing up, we note that replacing a bearing in an Electrolux washer is a difficult and time-consuming job, which will undoubtedly take a lot of time and effort. If you are not confident in yourself, it is better to entrust this business to professional craftsmen, good luck!

Removing the drum on the washing machine can cause us to have some kind of malfunction in it. Most often this is a bearing failure, which requires a procedure for disassembling the tank and removing the drum. In some cases, this may be the ingress of foreign objects into the space between the tank and the drum, or a breakdown of the tank itself.In any case, it remains for us to decide whether to remove the drum of the washing machine with our own hands or entrust the work to the master.

Of course, the ideal option would be to call a professional and forget about this problem. But for the majority of the citizens of our country, there is an eternal crisis in the yard, and there is no way to pay an extra several thousand for work. Therefore, we will do it ourselves at home.... Let's get started.

To start repairs you need to prepare the instrument... Luckily, you don't need anything exclusive here. We will need:

Screwdrivers - Phillips and slotted
Pliers
Set of wrenches
Hammer
Hacksaw - if the tank is non-separable

If you have all these tools, then you can proceed.

First thing you need to remove the top cover of the washing machine, for this we unscrew the two screws that hold it. They are located at the back of the washer. Push the cover to the back of the washing machine and remove it.

Now we need to remove the front wall of the washing machine, but before that remove the top panel with buttons - unscrew the bolts securing it (some bolts are under the powder tray, so pull it out). It will remain hanging on the wires, put it aside, for this on some washing machines, there is a special hook. Alternatively, you can simply disconnect the wires by pulling the plugs out of the panel.

Now you need remove the bottom panel, to do this, simply snap it off and remove it.

Next, you need to remove the cuff of the washing machine from the front wall. The cuff is held in place with a special clamp that can be removed with a slotted screwdriver. Find the connection point on the clamp (usually it is a spring, less often a bolt with a nut) and using a screwdriver, pull the spring back and remove the clamp.

Next, you need to remove the edges of the cuff from the wall and tuck them into the drum. Then you can start unscrewing the front wall.

Unscrew the bolts that secure the front wall, they are located on the top and bottom of the washing machine in the places where the top and bottom panels were. Farther remove the front wall, to do this, lift it up a little and pull it towards you.

Next, you need to disconnect all parts from the washing machine tank. To do this, disconnect the wires of the heating element, the engine and the pump of the washing machine, also the wires of the sensors that are connected to the tank must also be disconnected. Then detach the entire bundle of wires that is attached to the tank and set it aside.

Next, we need the top panel, if it has not been removed earlier, since it will greatly interfere with us when removing the tank. To do this, unscrew the bolts securing the filling valve, as well as the bolts securing this panel. Next, you need to disconnect the wires that are attached to the panel. And also disconnect the branch pipe that is detached from the box for receiving the powder to the tank of the washing machine.

When removing the panel, the pressure switch, as well as other wires and pipes, can interfere with you. Just detach them.

Now, for convenience and to lighten the weight of the tank, you need to unscrew both counterweights (upper and lower) and remove them further away. Next, disconnect the pipes that connect the tank to the rest of the washing machine. This is a pipe that goes to the drain pump of the washing machines and the pipe of the water level sensor.

Now the tank with the drum remained with us to hold on to the shock absorbers and springs, the rest of everything should be disconnected. The first step is to unscrew the shock absorbers from the base of the washing machine and remove the bolts so that they do not hold the tank.

We do this work with both shock absorbers, and then remove the tank from the springs and put it on the floor with the pulley up.

Now we need to disconnect the engine, for this we remove the belt and unscrew the motor, moving it to the side. Together with the engine, we remove the shock absorbers that remained attached to it.

Well, half the job is done, now we need to disassemble the washing machine tank itself.The material of the washing machine tank can be different, but most often it is plastic, which can be disassembled in one of two ways:

If the tank is not collapsible - on some models of washing machines, in particular on Hotpoint-Ariston models, the tanks are not collapsible, so they must be cut with a metal hacksaw. The cut must be done strictly along the seam of the connection of the two halves of the tank. Further, if you want to reassemble such a tank, then you will have to drill holes and use bolts to connect these two halves, having previously coated them with sealant.
Collapsible tank - in our case it is exactly so. In order to disassemble it, you need to disconnect the brackets that press both halves of the tank to each other. A slotted screwdriver works well for this.

After the tank has been cut in half or the latches have been released, the front half of the tank can be removed. Now you need to disassemble the drum of the washing machine, and more specifically, disconnect it from the second half of the tank.

In order to pull the drum out of the "remnants" of the tank, you must first remove the pulley by unscrewing it with a wrench. Next, you need to screw the bolt that held the pulley back until it stops. Then, with light blows of a hammer on the shaft with this bolt, knock it out of the tank.

That's all! This completes the removal of the drum from the washing machine.... Then you can do whatever you want with it, for example, you can make such a grill from an old drum.

Many companies producing washing machines have decided to "kill many birds with one stone" by making the tanks non-collapsible. Soldered tanks are easier to manufacture (there are no screws or fasteners.) And if there is a breakdown of a part inside the tank, then you need to change the whole tank with a celek and of course the manufacturer wins.

Today we will be repairing a tank with two bearings. If you have one bearing, then the analogy of repair is complete - to knock out one less bearing.

Stages of repairing a non-separable tank of a washing machine

drill holes
cut the tank
remove the drum
knock out bearings
install new bearings
stuffing box
reassembly

It is quite simple to repair a non-collapsible tank of a washing machine. Let's start. Here is the washing machine tank itself

Along the perimeter of the weld, it is necessary to make holes at a distance of 5-8 cm (it can no longer leak) and with a diameter of 3-5mm

Next, we take a hacksaw for metal and begin to carefully saw the tank along the seam. Sawing for a long time - you can handle it

After cutting, a plastic "ring" is obtained with the rubber of the hatch and the rear part with a drum, bearing and wheel for the belt pulley.

By the way! We do all this hard work, cheap and high quality. Sawing a tank is not so easy!

In order to remove the drum, it is necessary to remove the wheel. Since the screws are tightened with glue for reliability, it is necessary to take the bit (rod), insert it into the screw and hit it 2-3 times with a hammer, so that the glue on which it is planted moves away. Now you can safely unscrew and remove the wheel.

Take out the drum. Place the tank on the bars. So as not to damage the drum and hit the rod through a wooden block. Drum with stem does not need to be disassembled

Now you need to knock out both bearings. Take the steel rod and knock them out in a circle along the inner rings of the bearing, in turn, from the inside and outside. Knocked out bearings for scrap.

The drum shaft must be polished to a high shine.

Keep in mind that the crosspiece does not need to be removed for this operation.

The landing site must also be cleared of debris. We take two bearings in accordance with the dimensions. We smear the seat. We insert the bearing and tap on the OUTER edge of the bearing with a hammer or through the Getinax washer - the bearing must not be damaged !. We carefully hammer it all the way in - there will be a characteristic dull sound when the bearing rests on the side. We drive the next bearing in the same way.

The bearing must be sure to reach the stop!

Inner side of the tank.The procedure is completely identical. The only difference is that the bearing is clogged from the back.

We put an oil seal in the inner part of the tank above the bearing. Lubricate it lightly with silicone and it will fit very easily... This is a very important part (like the bearings) and must be new! An exception may be the lack of an oil seal on sale. In this case, the oil seal is removed carefully by hand, not with metal objects!

Lubricate the oil seal from the inside with "Grease for oil seals EBI cod 399"

We take the drum and put the tank on it. The drum rod must fit into the bearings. We put on the pulley ring and tighten with the screw.

We wash around the perimeter with silicone the sawn edges of the tank - we do not regret it, but also without fanaticism.

We connect and tighten both sawn parts with self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Putting the washing machine together and voila, it doesn’t hum - you don’t need to change an expensive tank!

ps This article did not touch upon the issue of complete disassembly of the washing machine. This is a topic for a separate discussion, and the disassembly is different for everyone, but since you have undertaken to repair, we hope that you have an elementary skill with a screwdriver.

Ask questions in the comments - we will answer everything.

You can replace the bearing in the Electrolux washing machine with your own hands: for this you need a small set of tools and a desire to carry out repairs without calling the master. The work will be painstaking, since you will have to completely disassemble the CM.

After reading the article, you will understand the sequence of actions, after which you will be able to cope with the task at hand.

How to understand without disassembling the machine that the bearing is worn out? In good working order, the washing machine works almost silently. Noise and hum during operation are the first signs of wear. Each time the vibration and grinding will increase - and you will hear nothing but the hum of technology.

A common symptom of this problem is drum play. If you shake it with your hand, it shifts noticeably upward from the tank.

Bearing failure is a serious failure. However, replacing a part is much more profitable than buying a new car, so after learning the sequence, proceed with the action.

How to choose the right bearing for your washing machine? Remove the old part and take the sample to the store. The seller will select the parts you need.

For self-repair you will need:

Screwdrivers (Phillips, flat).
Pliers.
Rubber hammer.
Socket heads.
Bit.
Tool WD-40.
Sealant or sealant.

Got the tools you need? Now unplug the machine, turn off the water tap. Disconnect the hoses going to the CM, drain the remaining water.

Before changing the bearing in the Electrolux car, you need to move it away from the wall, providing a place for work.

Let's make a reservation right away that such repairs are performed in the same way for various Electrolux CMA models. Over time, the manufacturer can change the control panel, improve the electronics, but the internal structure remains unchanged.

It is better to replace bearings in an Electrolux washing machine as soon as a malfunction is noticed.

The peculiarities of the assembly of the Electrolux washing machine include an unusual case connection. It consists of a front and a back, which are joined by a seam in the center of the side. Therefore, to access the tank, it will be enough to remove the rear half of the case.

Unscrew the bolts at the back, remove the top panel.
Unscrew the screws at the bottom of the back cover.
Remove the side panel screws located at the bottom. Remove the plastic clips that cover the bolts.
Do the same on the opposite side.
Now unscrew the upper mounting bolts.
Use a flat-blade screwdriver to squeeze out the plastic clips of the valve that is attached to the back wall.
After removing the valve, detach the cover.

You have accessed the tank at the back of the car. Proceed to further disassembly - to remove the drum.

Disconnect the wire connectors from the heater (heating element).
Loosen the plastic clips to disconnect the wiring permanently.
Disconnect the wires from the washing machine motor.
After unscrewing the fixing bolts (usually 3-4 self-tapping screws), remove the motor from the case.
Remove the screw on the pressure take-off chamber.
Unscrew the self-tapping screw holding the drain pipe clamp.
Disconnect the nipple.
Use pliers to pull out the shock absorber latches.

From below, the tank no longer holds anything. It remains to free the upper part.

Opening the clamp, disconnect the water supply pipe.
Remove the tube at the top front of the tank.
Remove the rubber boot of the hatch.
Pull back the cuff and remove the clamp.
After removing the tank springs, remove it from the CM body.

Place the tank on a flat surface and remove the pulley.

Block the pulley against the tank.
Remove the center bolt.

Unscrew the bolts along the edge of the tank that connect the two halves.
Remove one half of the tank, set aside.

If you find a large amount of limescale on the walls of the tank, it must be removed. Then you need to pull out the bearing. Start with the oil seal by prying it out with a flat screwdriver. To make it easier, use WD-40.

After placing the chisel on the bearing, knock it out by tapping with a mallet.
Clean the socket with sandpaper, then wipe with a descaler.

Install a new bearing in the tank seat. To make it sit in place, gently tap the bolt with a hammer, which is evenly rearranged along the outer edge.

Be careful! Do not hit the inner race of the bearing. In this case, the balls inside are deformed, which will significantly reduce the life of the element.

Repeat the installation process from the inside of the tank.

Lubricate the inside of the stuffing box.
Install the oil seal over the bearing. If it does not fit completely into the slot, tap the edges with a rubber mallet evenly.

Now it remains to put the drum in place and cover it with the second part of the tank. Before doing this, coat the seams of the tank with sealant for better adhesion and a reliable seal. Replace the second part by screwing the bolts around the perimeter. Further assembly takes place in reverse order.

Knowing how to replace bearings in an Electrolux washing machine, you can easily do it yourself. A video on the topic will help you in your work:

Video (click to play).