Washing machine indesit does not turn on malfunctions DIY repair

In detail: the indesit washing machine does not turn on malfunctions DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The first thought when an error code appears on the display is how much will the repair cost? In some cases, you really can't do without a wizard, but many faults are quite capable of fixing yourself. This article will talk about the Indesit washing machine - what repairs you can do yourself, and when it is better not to risk it.

Objectively, Indesit washing machines cannot be classified as very reliable equipment. Budgetary - yes, good quality - too, but not eternal. Moreover, as evidenced by the data of international service centers, this is the most breakable equipment, and is second only to the ARDO brand. Compared to Germans and Koreans, this brand is used 15 times more often - the statistics are shown in the diagram below. This is the average data for Russia and European countries as of the first half of 2017.

The question of why this is happening is best attributed to the company's engineers. But based on the same statistics, you can significantly narrow the range of searches for causes. And in the future, if the machine refuses to work, it will be possible to independently determine the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it on our own.

So what goes wrong:

Heating element is the weak point of all washing machines. But if in some it is covered with a special composition that reduces the formation of plaque, then in Indesite it is made simply of stainless steel and is not covered with anything. Lime and scale are formed already in the first 5 years, after which it has to be changed.

In second place after the heating element, but sometimes there is a factory defect. On average, the normal operation of the line filter can only be expected in the first 3 years. It changes very easily.

Video (click to play).

Anything that moves is easy to break, and bearings are no exception. Replacing them is easy, but very difficult to get to. Direct and belt drive Indesites have a glued drum. It is difficult to fix this malfunction with your own hands.

In equipment manufactured before 2012, the control unit failed in 100% of the cases. After the upgrade was carried out, the board began to burn less often, but this is still the most common failure.

Interestingly, the engine itself is very reliable; over the past 4 years, not a single official case of treatment has been recorded. But the sensor is the weak link. It will not be possible to repair it, you just have to change it.

The list does not include current problems, such as: dirty filters, clogged hoses, etc. This is found in all brands, even the Germans.

VIDEO: Error codes by combination of indicators

Before. how to start repairing a washing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to find the cause of the malfunction. Only a clear understanding of the problem and adherence to the correction algorithm guarantee a successful outcome of the operation.

Modern models have a display that shows an error code. Check the Indesit manual for a transcript of each. The new technique is equipped with a self-diagnosis function, which simplifies the search problem.

Error codes by indicators

If there is no display or no code is displayed, try to identify the source by ear or visually. Bearing breakage is accompanied by a strong roar and vibration during spinning, if intelligence fails, water does not drain / is not poured, etc.

By the indicators, you can determine what is broken

The multimeter can ring all contacts when power is not supplied.

Before disassembling the equipment, study its structure (diagram in the figure below) and photograph / film each stage. It will be easier to navigate during assembly.

Now we turn to the analysis of common breakdowns.

If a housewife uses only high-quality powder mixtures, pours them into the appropriate compartments of the cuvette and for stable operation of the pressure unit in the water supply system, most likely the cause of the breakdown is clogging of the inlet valve filter. The part is located behind the equipment closer to the top of the case. The filter is located almost on the same level with the powder cuvette and is connected to it with a filler pipe. When the filter device becomes clogged, the pressure level of the water supply to the soap compartment is reduced. As a result of this action, the department should be emptied, which actually does not happen due to clogging.

Do-it-yourself malfunction repair is carried out. It is enough to disconnect the pipe, clean it, wash the filter system and put all the components in their places.

This malfunction of the Indesit washing machine indicates an unstable operation of the inlet valve. The part is a device that looks like a crane according to its external data. The device is responsible for the automated supply of water to the drum through the sections of the cuvette with the detergent.

Washing machine inlet valve

The first step is to inspect the valve strainer. If the apartment has an old plumbing system with clear signs of rust accumulation, under such conditions the mesh filter will quickly become clogged. There is also the possibility that it will be necessary to check the function of each valve coil.

Remove the part, connect it to the water pipe as tightly as possible so that no liquid seeps through the seam. Then, in sequential order, apply a voltage of 220V to each coil. If the device is working properly, liquid will come out through its pipes. If one of the coils breaks down, you will need to replace the valve as a whole.

When the malfunction of the Indesit washing machine is a clogged drain filter, the liquid from the tank is either pumped out at a slow rate, or not at all. It turns out that as soon as the rinsing stage begins, the electronic module blocks the program and stops all processes.

The drainage system includes the following components:

corrugated tube;
pumping device;
filter;
drain hose.

To repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and remove the blockage, you need to dismantle the front panel, then unscrew the filter device on the right side. Rotations should be counterclockwise. Before repairs, you need to prepare a container for draining water. To empty the reservoir of liquid, tilt it forward slightly so that water flows freely outward along with scale, rust and small objects that may have fallen out of pockets of clothes during washing. Cleaning the external drain hose is a good idea.

This breakdown of the washing machine can be determined by a loud hum and a refusal to perform the function of collecting or draining liquid. The reason lies in the malfunctions and unstable operation of the pump pump. This is very often due to accumulated debris. Threads, hair, or laces can become entangled in the impeller and block the entire appliance.

The problem is eliminated in an elementary way - the unit lies on its side, the cover is removed from the lower part, the debris is removed. You can still get to the impeller using a simpler method, through the hole in the drain filter.

Repair of the washing machine as a result of the occurrence of such symptoms will be associated with the replacement of the heating element. Often, the design of the heating element has a long service life of up to 9-13 years. But if the equipment is used in an intensive mode with regular overload of the drum, the breakdown will be revealed much earlier.

Heating element connection diagram

To remove the heating element, you need to disconnect the Indesit washing machine from the mains and unscrew the fasteners of the rear case cover. Next, remove all the water supply pipes and dismantle the drive-type belt. 3 wires are connected to the heating element, one is for grounding, the rest are supplying. The element is fixed with screws, clamps. The terminals, wires should be disconnected, also loosen the fastening nut, and then remove the heating element to install a new one.

If the unit reproduces loud noise and vibrations, the washing machine will need to be repaired as soon as these symptoms appear. Bearings are considered to be fairly wear-resistant parts, but corrosion can shorten their service life. In any case, it is easy to diagnose the problem - you should scroll the tank by hand. Does the tank rotate involuntarily, staggers in different directions, makes a grinding noise? This means that the bearings are damaged.

In Indesites, the drum is glued, which makes the process of replacing bearings very difficult

The process of dismantling the bearings is a laborious undertaking, requiring the dismantling of virtually the entire Indesit washing machine. If there is no relevant experience, it is recommended not to take risks and entrust the task to a specialist.

In Indesit washing machines, an electronic motor breakdown occurs in rare cases, often in more budgetary modifications due to non-compliance with operating rules. For example, a similar problem can occur with the W84TX model. To remove the engine for repair, put the washer on its side, remove the cover from the bottom. If access to the required element is difficult, it will be necessary to remove the end panel. Next, the electrical wiring is disconnected and the fixing elements are unscrewed, after which the electronic motor is taken out of the case.

The design features of the Indesit washing machine are so basic that you can deal with problems such as clogging of the drain system, replacing the pump, heating element or hoses on your own. It should be remembered that when identifying more global problems, it is better to contact the wizard, otherwise you can lead to more serious problems. We offer to consider the cost of repair services in specialized companies.

The first category of complexity of repair

The popularity of the tyralny machines Indesit received due to the low cost. But for the initial cheapness you have to pay extra with repairs - the reliability of the brand is in question.

But you can repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and eliminate many breakdowns if you have basic knowledge of mechanics, electrical and electronics.

First of all, you need to determine what kind of breakdown occurred. Initial diagnostics will help you decide if it is possible to fix the problem yourself or if you still have to spend money on professional repairs.

The right step would be to have a preliminary acquaintance with the scheme of the washing machine in order to have an idea of where everything is.

Sometimes, to determine the cause of the failure of household appliances, it is enough to read the instructions for use, which, among other things, contains recommendations for eliminating breakdowns.

The first step is to take a look at the display. If it is impossible to complete the specified process, the washing machine issues special codes on the display.

Error codes in the operation of the washer are given in the instructions that the manufacturer must attach to his own product:

With the help of a very useful multimeter device, it is possible to check various contacts, wiring, sensors. The device will show if there is power everywhere.

Sometimes it is enough to listen to the sound emitted by the unit. When the washing machine starts to creak, make excessive noise, and sometimes rattle, then, most likely, there are problems in the bearings or the drum, the oil seal is damaged, the counterweight fasteners are loose, the shock absorbers are in poor condition.

Calling the wizard is the only correct solution when:

the warranty period has not expired - if the operating rules are followed, the repair will be free;
threatening smoke came from the car.

In other cases, it is said that there are options. But always the first stage of repair begins with disconnecting the faulty equipment from the mains. For negligence, electricity will punish necessarily and severely. An indispensable rule of a home master: do not act at random, use the instructions.

When the display does not report a malfunction, there are no leaks, smoke, burning smell, then usually the problem is easy to fix:

If home laundry won't turn on, first you need to check if the plug is firmly inserted into the outlet. Occasionally, the washing machine can shut down due to power surges. It is also necessary to make sure that the operating mode is set correctly on the control panel;
When water does not flow into the tank, it is recommended to press the button responsible for starting and stopping the unit again, make sure that the door is closed tightly. Sometimes the fault is insufficient pressure in the water supply system, perhaps the tap was simply turned off, the hose was damaged. The reason may lie in the failure of both the program and the control system. Elimination occurs by repeated access to the "Start / Pause" button;
When the drain is not working first you need to check the filter - sometimes it is enough just to clean it.

And the source of the frightening rumble can be any object (for example, a coin) that accidentally ends up in the drum.

This is a fairly frequent breakdown, although the declared service life of the heating element is 10-15 years. However, numerous washes in very hot and hard water, constant overloading of the tank, and low-grade detergents do an evil deed.

Over time, a kind of "coat" of various salts is formed on the heating element. It breaks down from overheating, it is no longer possible to restore it. A heater malfunction is indicated by a cold hatch when the wash mode is on and, of course, laundry that has not been washed in cold water.

Replacing a damaged part is quite simple: the manufacturers have placed the heating element in such a way that it is easy to get to it by opening the back cover of the case. The only inconvenience is that the car needs to be disconnected from all communications in order to turn the right side for repair. The heating element is placed under the drum pulley. Care should be taken when disconnecting and replacing the wiring board.

A minimum of tools will be required: a flat and curly screwdriver, a key with a head are enough. You will also need a multimeter or tester to check the heating element. It is wiser to buy a new heater, the original Italian one.

Disconnect the unit from all communications.
Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the cover.
Further, under the tank, you need to find the contacts of the heating element and attach the multimeter probes to them. Normal resistance is 25-35 Ohm, other indicators indicate a malfunction.
The next operation: disconnecting all wires with terminals, fixing their position in memory.
Then the nut is unscrewed on the bolt, the end of which is located in the center of the heater base.
In order for the bolt to go into the hole, it should be gently knocked over it.
Pull out the heating element base by picking it up with a flat screwdriver.
Move the thermal sensor from the damaged part to the new heating element.
Clean out the formed debris from the seat for the electric heater.
Leave the new heating element in its intended place, fasten it with a bolt.

Then it remains to return the wires to their original position, close the rear cover of the machine and restore the connection with communications.

This is also a fairly common problem. The pump is a weak point of automatic washing machines. In addition to a blockage, when it is enough to clean the hose and filter, the impeller can jam. It is located behind the drain filter, which must be unscrewed and removed.

To prevent the impeller, you need to try to rotate.It should not be too light: in a normal state, the impeller rotates with certain delays due to the magnet in the coil. Sometimes threads, hair, laces and other similar debris wrap around the impeller so that they even block it. All these interferences must be removed.

It happens that the plastic body is deformed and begins to clamp the blades. When there is no possibility of replacement, the blades must be cut with a knife by no more than 2 mm, and the washing machine can still be used.

If after that the work is not restored, then the breakdown is more significant and requires a detailed inspection - the pump will have to be disassembled. The car is laid on its side, the screws that fix the pump to the casing are unscrewed, the electric cable and 2 hoses are disconnected.

Clean the hoses if necessary. The tester checks the motor windings to eliminate the possibility of breakage. Typical resistance values here are 150-300 ohms.

Without hoping for memory, it is worth noting the orientation of the pump relative to the engine I. Then the pump motor is disconnected from the housing, the rotor is removed from the stator. Often everything inside is clogged with dirt that interferes with the rotation of the rotor. In such cases, a thorough rinsing is required.

The rotor axis bearing is lubricated with lithium, the oil seal is adjusted. Subsequent assembly is carried out using a sealant to prevent leaks.

If you follow the instructions for caring for your washing machine and clean the drain hose every 6 months, the likelihood of breakage of the drain system will be greatly reduced.

Indesit's motor is well-designed, reliable and durable. However, nothing is eternal, and at one not very beautiful moment, the "heart of the machine" may fail. The reason can be not only wear of the mechanism, but also excessive overload.

First, the outer panels are removed from the machine, usually the top and rear.
O Disconnect the supply wires.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
Screw the fasteners, remove the motor.

After diagnostics, the final decision is made to repair or replace the engine. Usually they tend to the latter option - it is difficult to restore the engine, it is easier to completely replace it. The installation of a new engine is carried out in the reverse order.

Before disassembly, the assembly should be photographed, then there will be no problems with what to screw in.

When in a working washing machine, especially during spinning, unusual sounds appear, and not episodic, but gradually increasing, this is a clear signal of a malfunction of the bearings, which indicates the ease of rotation of the drum.

Do-it-yourself repair in such a situation is possible, but you cannot call it simple - you need extreme care, strict adherence to the sequence of operations:

Remove the top and rear panels.
Remove dispenser, control unit.
Twist the cuff clamp, remove the cuff itself and the hatch locking device.
Remove the front wall and counterweight.
Remove the tubular electric heater, noting the sequence of connecting the wires in memory.
Disconnect the parts connected to the drum tank, dismantle the drive belt and motor.
Remove the tank, place it on a flat place with the pulley up, then unscrew the pulley bolt, remove the pulley itself.
Using a mallet (you can use a simple hammer and a wooden gasket) to sink the shaft down, untwist and divide the tank into two halves.
Remove the bearing with a special puller, dismantle the old oil seals.
After installing fresh oil seals, press in a new bearing.

The assembly of the washing machine is carried out in reverse order with strict sequence of operations. To prevent the tank from leaking, all seams must be sealed.

The main thing when replacing a bearing is care and adherence to the sequence of operations.

A flabby hatch lock can cause another nuisance - the washing machine will stop turning on.The shut-off device is also equipped with contacts, and when something prevents complete closure, electricity does not flow to the units of the unit.

Failure is usually caused by the accumulated dirt in the lock. After its elimination, the normal operation of the device, as a rule, is restored.

And the mortiser s dampens excessive vibrations that appear in the washing machine. This is especially necessary during spinning, when the rotating drum is at the highest speed. Over time, they diminish in effectiveness.

As a result - excessive vibration, atypical noises, knocking during the spin cycle. A common cause of failure is the wear of the gaskets and separating the piston and cylinder, which subsequently deform.

The shock absorber cylinder contains a rod, consisting of a rod and a gasket treated with a high-friction lubricant. Oscillations are damped by moving the piston.

The jerky jerk of the tank forces the piston into the cylinder, reducing vibration. There is also a spring in the cylinder that returns the piston to its original position - it is called the return one.

To get to the shock absorbers, you will have to remove the rear panel (in some modifications, the side or front cover can be removed). After unscrewing the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber, it is disconnected from the body. In the same way, the part is released from above. A new shock absorber is installed in place of the old one and fixed in the reverse order.

In the latest models, instead of shock absorbers, dampers are used, where the return spring has been replaced by a whole spring system attached to the upper area of the tank and providing it with a "suspended" position. This design is more reliable, better dampens unwanted shocks.

To check the performance, the damper must be removed from the body by unscrewing the bolt in its lower segment, and try to press on it so as to compress and then unclench the mechanism. If the result is minimal, the device is in normal working condition. When the piston easily changes position, the damper needs to be replaced.

It is removed from the case in the same way as conventional shock absorbers, although in some models the mounting bolts are replaced with plastic pins with latches. Install the new damper in the usual way - in reverse order with respect to the assembly.

It happens that the detergent does not want to leave the tray. This usually happens when he is poured there without measure. The problem disappears with the correct dosage.

Weak water pressure can also be to blame. It is worth trying to clean the filter where the washing machine connects to the inlet hose.

Another option is to increase the pressure at the tap supplying water. Sometimes water cannot enter the tray due to a blocked valve. Then you should pull out the tray, find the valve in the form of a key and carefully clean it.

These are the most common causes of improper detergent powder behavior and can be easily dealt with without the help of a professional. A more difficult case would be a problem with the water inlet valve where the powder does not leave the tray at all. Valve replacement is already required. The same can be said about the solenoid valve, which is responsible for filling the cuvette with water with water.

The control unit in Indesit washing machines does not have reliable protection against moisture, as a result, condensate gets on the contacts, short circuits occur, which take the device out of the working state.

Repair requires subtle diagnostics in the "Autotest" mode, serious knowledge in radio engineering, masterly possession of a soldering iron, skills in handling microcircuits, boards, semiconductors. This is usually the area of expertise of skilled professionals.

For the rare daredevils from the army of home crafts, the most general tips:

remove the cover from the control unit;
remove the module;
inspect faulty contacts and connections;
evaporate damaged parts;
solder conditioning elements in their place.

But work with electronics is far from being for everyone, so we recommend that you abandon experiments and turn to professionals.

You can get acquainted with the practical application of tips for repair and replacement of spare parts by watching informative videos.

Quick replacement of heating elements in the Indesit washing machine:

How to change the bearing yourself:

From the bottom of the tank, you will see 2 contacts sticking out of its wall. This is the shank of the heater - the heating element itself is located under the drum. Remove the wiring from the heater and sensor (located inside the heater).

Take a tester and take measurements - lean the probes against the contacts.If the device shows a value in the region of 20-40 ohms, then the heater is in order. If the value is 0, then the heating element is closed, and 1 or ∞ indicates a break in the heater.

Image - Washing machine indesit does not turn on malfunctions DIY repair

At the same time, check if the heating element does not pierce the body. To do this, turn on the buzzer mode on the tester. Attach the probes as follows: one to the contact, the second to the body. If everything is in order, then the tester works quietly, if there is a breakdown, it will beep.

Next, remove the old heating element, even if the tester's readings are normal. To do this, unscrew the central fastener by unscrewing the nut. Take out the seal.

Examine the heating element. If there is a thick layer of scale or dark spots on it, then 100% of the element needs to be replaced.

Important! Buy a new heating element together with an elastic band-seal in order to tightly install and fix the heater.

Before installing the heating element, clean the place where it is attached from scale and debris. If it is difficult to do this with your hands, use a wire hook or bottle brush.
Install a new heating element, connect the wires and assemble the machine.

Malfunctions of Indesit washing machines and their elimination are a problem for many users, especially due to a factory defect. But if the filter is not defective, then it was "finished off" by unfavorable operating conditions - high humidity in the room or constant voltage surges in the network.

While the company "Indesit" is thinking how to protect the filter from unstable voltage in our homes, we will tell you how to carry out repairs yourself. Follow this scheme:

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws that secure it.
The filter is located on the back of the power cord, like a plug - only inside the machine.
Once you find the filter, unscrew the screw that holds it.
The part cannot be repaired. It is necessary to replace the element by purchasing the original part.

The owner of SM Indesit came to the workshop, already desperate to change anything: in his words, he changed the filter 3 times already. His working capacity was enough for 5 months at most. The foreman examined the machine and said that the filter was burning out due to high humidity. He installed a new part, and treated the contacts leading to it with silicone sealant. The lucky owner has been using the machine for the second year.

Important! If you decide to follow this experience, dry, clean and wipe before pouring sealant on the contacts.

There are jobs that require effort, time, tools, and most importantly - experience and knowledge. But we cannot but talk about them: a failure in the controller and wear of bearings are also possible malfunctions of the Indesit washing machine.

The most difficult job is with bearings. The difficulty lies not so much in disassembling the case, but in the tank. The manufacturers have made the tank as reliable as possible, so it is designed in such a way that it cannot be disassembled.

Therefore, the masters of the service centers got the hang of this issue, and they simply saw the tank into 2 parts along the weld. The solution is efficient - it helps and saves finances, since it is cheaper to cut a tank than to change half a car.

Of course, not all home craftsmen can handle such work, but you can try. Arm yourself with tips from the video:

As for the control unit, in 9 out of 10 cases it is enough to simply re-solder the contacts.

The scheme of the Indesit washing machine is such that the contacts are located in unfavorable places and are exposed to moisture. Due to condensation, they oxidize, close, and the control unit refuses to work.

Theoretically, it is easy to repair the control unit, but in practice it takes a long time and tediously, armed with a tester, to check in turn all the elements of the board and contacts. Only there it is possible to find and localize the breakdown.

It is better to entrust the repair of this part to a good master, and you will handle the rest yourself.

Surely many were in a bad situation, when a pile of dirty wash rags was already lying and ready to be put in the drum, the washing powder was poured, the fabric softener was poured, but the washing machine does not want to turn on. There are many reasons for this.Some of them can be easily fixed by repair, while others want the participation of a specialist. How to determine what is broken and what needs to be done? Let's figure it out with me.

My Indezit washing machine won't turn on. When I turn it on, the indicators do not respond to the buttons. After a few minutes, all indicators start flashing. It also does not respond to the power button. Launching programs has no effect when you hold it to reset programs.

I tried to do the following: I disconnected all terminals from the controller except the panel and buttons. So the problem remains. The containers on the controller are not externally swollen. I soldered one capacitor on a 330 uF pulse unit for a voltage of 25 volts. I checked the capacity with a device, normal readings. On the large board, another 470 uF capacitor for 25 volts was dropped, everything is also fine.

The tester checked the voltage of the output of the power supply unit on the board, it showed 12 volts. Then I measured the voltage at the input on the panel with buttons, it also turned out to be 12 V. So there is a desire to fix the washing machine, which does not turn on.

There is an opinion that the firmware of the washing machine unit may fly off. I checked the presence of liquid and traces of insects on the board, I did not find anything. There are small spots of blackness. There is no smell. The paths are also soot. After wiping with a cloth, I did not find any signs of damage on the parts and tracks.

When turned on and off, the module should respond without sensors. And they themselves light up, blink, do not react. The board does not need to be washed with alcohol, so that the dissolved dirt does not flow into other places.

Indicators with red arrows also blink.

It is necessary to determine the code by three flashing indicators. On the Internet I did not find exactly how to decipher the code.

The product code and trade name are located behind the door on a sticker, on the back side where the filter is.

I show a sticker on the side of the hatch:

A friend advised me to look at the type of processor, find datashit in the technical description, and there you should see the pinout of the legs where the power is supplied. I looked in Yandex and Google for the name of the chip. Could not find. It is said that the Chinese make it to order for each model. Here I took a photo of the microchip:

Memory is written near the processor. It has eight legs. The memory and the processor have the same power supply. It can be measured on a microcircuit on the eighth leg. It equals 5 volts.

56 and 24 legs are a plus. What causes soot on boards? I rubbed the tracks, all the details are intact. There are black spots on the outside of the case. Could it be from the friction of the brushes, or from a module malfunction?

By code and firmware - this is Arcadia, made in Russia. We check from the side of the water heater circuits, there are relays, connectors and contacts. If necessary for checking, then we solder the parts, dry and clean. But, you can go the opposite way: check the heater, wires, contacts on the board. Next, walk to the relay.

Here are the relay and heater contacts:

With a multimeter, I checked the electric heating element for a break. It turned out to be serviceable. The supply wires from it also showed normal results. Now I will ring the path from the connector to the relay. Then I will ring the relay, it can drop out better, since the protective diode will deteriorate.

When measuring, if the resistance along the tracks is less than 1 Ohm, then we do not pay attention. If the resistance on the contacts is below 1 Ohm, do not look at it either. When measuring, take into account the wire resistance of the multimeter. Measured: at all places the resistance is higher than 1 mOhm. In one place, it only shows zero. I will solder the relay with a soldering iron. Although there should not be 1 mOhm, the tracks should ring to zero, the pins should also be zero. The relay has dropped out, let's see what the test gives.

Here is a photo of where the resistance is:

Searching on the Internet for HF3FA 012-ZTF datasheet, download.

There are 5 legs, two of them are a coil (rectangle). They are supplied with 12 volts. The next three contacts are normally open and closed.This means that without voltage, a pair of contacts will be closed, and in the presence of voltage, the second pair of contacts will close. Here in the photo I show that there is zero between the contacts:

This is the coil winding of the relay. A normal relay should read about 400 ohms.

I connected a voltage of 12 volts to two legs. The device showed that the other legs are closed, the third and the first. Just like without tension.

As a result, I found out that the relay was not working. There was no click when power was applied. When the washing machine was running, the relay clicked.

First, the washing machine locks the door, drains the water, then pours in the water, starts to rotate the drum. Passes water control, and stops due to an error. Now it is like this: there is no reverse motion of the motor - the door is blocked, the water is drained, then water is poured, rotation, then an error occurs and a stop occurs. There is no water heating, the machine stops at an error.

Arcadia has been installed since 2008, marked accordingly with stickers. It is necessary to remove the panel, check Light-emitting diode to see through, look at the buttons, maybe they are clamped. On the processor, you need to check the power, it should be 3.3 volts. I measured the capacitance on the VDD and GND lines.

I checked the voltage, when I apply voltage to the car, the buttons that are not pressed give 4.9 volts, and if you press, then zero. It should be so.

Now I have installed the control unit in the washing machine to check the voltage in the processor. The machine began to respond to buttons. Turned on the spin mode, it works fine. I connect the water to the machine, I will check how it washes. And before that it did not start in any way.

I did not put the throttle back on. I soldered the capacitors on the power supply to test the capacitors and relays.

I put the power supply back in place, turned on the program number 6, erases normally. The water heats up. This is how I repaired my washing machine. Below are the general reasons for not turning on the washing machine.

The washing machine always worked without problems. But, now all of a sudden it didn’t turn on? This problem can occur suddenly. It occurs when we interrupt our laundry plans. No need to worry and panic.

Let's figure out how the malfunction appeared. Here are the possible ways of manifestation:

When the machine was turned on, the lamp came on, and the water does not fill the tank, the wash does not go.
After plugging into the network, the indicators periodically light up and go out, blink.
After connecting, nothing happens, the lamps do not light.

These are the symptoms, let's move on to the causes of the malfunctions.

Possible damage to the wire.
There is no supply voltage.
The machine door interlock is defective.
The trigger button has broken.
The noise filter is broken.
Contacts in the circuit are broken.
Breakdown of the command apparatus.
The main module is defective.

To get started with your own hands, you need to make sure that the power is connected, the plug is connected to the outlet. A malfunction is that no electric current is supplied to the washing machine. We check the presence of current in the network. Sometimes it turns out that we discard simple options and start to panic. To do this, turn on some device and check. If there is current, the washing machine is turned on, but does not work, then we begin the repair by pulling the plug out of the socket.

A good device for the serviceability of various wires that can break is a multimeter. We will ring their wires and everything you need. You can use a screwdriver with an indicator or an electrical device to check the socket. For better clarity, you can use a table lamp. If the appliance is working, the socket is normal. If not, then we repair the outlet. We disconnect the apartment from the network in the dashboard, fix the outlet.

With careless use, the machine wire breaks down, breaks or frays. To check this type of breakage with a multimeter, we check this wire. If there is a break, then we change the entire wire, or eliminate the break point.The place of the break can be eliminated by stripping the ends of the break and twisting the wire, or soldering with a soldering iron. But, this option is not recommended.

If your machine is old, has been in long-term use, then the malfunction may well be due to the start button. There are two wires connected to the button. We check them for serviceability with a multimeter together with the button. The button must be checked in both positions, that is, on and off. If the button is faulty, then you need to change the button.

If the previously carried out checks gave the result that everything is in order, then it is necessary to move on to another reason - this is a malfunction of the main module. It is not recommended to repair the module unless you have good skills and are not qualified.

The module is an expensive part, it is advisable to contact the service or call a specialist. But, before that, you can check for other breakdowns.

Possible breakdown of the noise filter. This filter is needed so that other household appliances do not suffer from interference from the washing machine (computer, radio, TV). It can fail from long work or when short-circuited. Guides go to him. We check it with a multitester, we make sure that it works fine. If the noise filter is faulty, we change it to a new one.

If there is a malfunction in the interlock, then you will find the following problem: when you turn on the washing machine, the indicator light is on. But when the hatch is closed, the machine does not work. To check for voltage blocking, we use a multitester. If there is voltage, and the machine does not work, then we replace the lock.

Check how the drum is filled with water. If you hear some sounds or, on the contrary, silence, then it means that filling with water is experiencing difficulties, the washing machine has nothing to wash. If this does not help, then see which program you have chosen. Maybe you accidentally pressed the wrong button, or pressed several buttons together. If in doubt, you need to turn off the machine for a few seconds, and then turn it on again to eliminate the failure.

Video (click to play).

When the washing machine is running, many wires touch different parts. Doing so can cause wire breakage due to friction. Operating vibration may cause the attachment slots to come loose. To identify these malfunctions, you need to take a good look at all electrical wiring. Such an inspection will help find faults or breaks. Incomprehensible places can be checked and ringed with a multimeter.

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