LG direct drive washing machine DIY repair

In detail: lg direct drive washing machine DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The car broke down. The washing machine rattled and screeched. The bearing rattled. Rather, at first there was a creak, rather sharply intensifying with each subsequent wash. For five washes (four weeks), there was already a rumble and squeal on the spin, which I wanted to get rid of. As the passport says - one year warranty, seven years' service life. Four months to seven was not enough.

Rice. one Checking the absence of smudges

Rice. 2 Checking the absence of leaks from the cuff of the hatch

Rice. 3 Checking drum play

After shaking the drum, looking under the car, checking for leaks, I came to the conclusion that despite the absence of visible defects (drum play, lack of water on the floor and nearby, chips), the point is in the bearings, or rather in the bearing that is closer to the drum.

Rice. 5 Suspected malfunction

I went online for prices for replacing bearings and oil seal. It turned out that this operation is one of the most difficult and expensive. Complete disassembly of the machine is required, starting with the engine. Prices were bent over sickly firms with a one-year guarantee for the work done. As the wife said: "It is better to add half the amount and buy a new one." I started looking for "Uncle Vasya". Many refused to repair when they found out about the direct drive. Those who agreed to renovations did not want to come on Saturday or Sunday. Of the three who agreed, I chose one with a lower price, i.e. from only 4.5 sput.

Friends at work urged me on: "Uncle will come with a sledgehammer and straighten the bearings!" I didn’t believe it! ! ! I called. - "What kind of bearing puller do you have?" - “Why a puller, there is a drift. Each owner must have his own hammer ”Yes-ah-ah. And this is without a guarantee, that is, only under the word of a completely unfamiliar person. You can't drag his note to court. I washed myself.

Video (click to play).

Rice. 6 Small bearing in a glass

I called two postponed ones. The effect is exactly the same. And moreover - “We have been repairing SO all our lives and we don’t sit without work”. - *** It's not a pity to knock on someone else's washing machine with a hammer. ((((*** Therefore, they do not sit without work with such an attitude. IMHO. I change bearings on a car only with a puller, but there is iron all around. On a washing machine, the tank is plastic with a fused thin-walled glass) (2mm at the bearing). I decided to do it myself, fortunately my wife said - "4.5tyr and even the same amount and we will buy a new one if that."

There was experience in car repair. "Vyatka-automaton" as a designer went through.

He scattered the car (cover, rear, front with a hatch, after removing the seal from the hatch), removed the engine rotor.

Rice. 12 Control panel fasteners

Rice. thirteen Detergent dispenser container

Rice. 14 Front panel fixing

Rice. 15 Front panel fixing

Rice. sixteen Front panel fixing

Rice. 17 Front panel fixing

Disconnected the wires of the TEN and the stator of the motor (carefully, the latches on the connectors).

I put the rotor in place without tightly tightening the bolt to preserve the stator when pulling out the drum. Disconnected the control panel wires.

Rice. 25 Control panel wires

Rice. 28 Removing shock absorbers

Disconnected the rubber and shock absorbers. He removed the tank from the springs, shock absorbers and pulled it out.

Rice. 29 Removing shock absorbers

He unscrewed the self-tapping screws of the tank connector, cut it in half. He removed the motor rotor again, pulled the drum out of the bearings.

Exactly! Small bearing (from motor) OK! The bearing from the tank soured, which did not rotate by hand. I dug out the oil seal, it was ground down to a radius of 1mm in the sealing collar.

Water got into the bearing (despite being closed) and it rusted. There was also corrosion on the shaft.I decided to put the bearings with a polyurethane seal (closure), instead of the standard ones with a metal closure.

I ordered pullers from a turner, bought bolts in auto parts.

After installing the thrust bearing in the small bearing, he lowered the bolt with a stop inside the glass, fitted the two halves of the top on the stop and carefully pressed the top against the upper (large) bearing. When tightening the bolt, the puller began to expand the bearings and the small one could not stand it, moved with a bang and began to get out of bed.

Then, I attached a puller (stop and top) to the large bearing, a bolt through the shoulders of the supports on the glass (d66mm, height 20mm, wall thickness 1.5mm), put instead of the oil seal. After a little resistance, the bearing gave up.

Rice. 36 Demonstration of pullers

Rice. 37 Demonstration of pullers

Rice. 38 Demonstration of pullers

You can buy original bearings in shops for repairing washing machines (and refrigerators?) (200-300 rubles). Original with metal closure. I preferred conventional bearings in stores. closed with polyurethane on both sides. The oil seal was found only in a washing machine specialized in repair for 250 rubles.

After cleaning the bearing beds and rinsing the tank, he heated the glass under the bearings with a hairdryer (

up to 50-60g.), inserted the bearings into place with a puller in two steps. I lubricated the stuffing box spring with litholom24, not abundantly. It is also recommended to lubricate the shaft with lithol, but it became a pity for the linen. I inserted the oil seal, greased the shaft with soapy paste, put the drum and rotor in place, tightened the bolt.

The gum of the seal between the halves of the tank was deformed, so he took it out, cleaned it and the groove, smeared the gum with silicone sealant (a little), and put it in place. !! If the sealing rubber band is not a ring (split), then the connection point must be at the top of the tank! Stretch evenly to reduce the gap between the ends. Put the other half more carefully, be more careful with the TEN.

Tighten the self-tapping screws of the tank halves in two steps through the bolt. The tank can be replaced. The assembly is easier, after checking the wires, connectors, fasteners, I close the machine with metal and drag it to check.

The flight is normal. After a slight creak of the oil seal, which quickly disappears after the first wash with abundant powder, the machine starts to work as before. Two lightweight washes to try. So far so good.

I confidently earned money for cognac! ;-P)))

One of the best helpers in the house is the washing machine. It facilitates the work of a woman, frees her at least from washing. If the family is large, then you have to wash every day to keep the apartment clean and the hygiene of its residents. Therefore, the breakdown of the washing machine is a real problem for a woman.

The entire wash is a heavy burden on her shoulders. And the hostess begins to wash all this linen and clothes by hand, wasting time and energy. And so every day, dreaming about a new washing machine or about how to quickly repair an old one. And there is no money for repairs.

What then is to be done? It is necessary to somehow get out of the situation. If the husband is with hands and head, then he will be able to independently find the cause of the breakdown and replace the faulty part with a new one. Today we will tell you about how to disassemble the Lg washing machine and any other model.

The brands of machines differ from each other in some peculiarities: washing programs, sizes, number of revolutions, but the principle of disassembling washing machines is the same.

For high-quality and quick disassembly, you need:

two screwdrivers, a thin flat and a Phillips screwdriver for unscrewing the fasteners;
round nose pliers or pliers;
awl;
hammer;
open-end and socket wrenches;
ticks;
nippers.

The internal parts of the device are protected from negative environmental influences by metal elements of the case: back wall, front panel, top cover.

To do this, lay the device on its side and remove the pump through the bottom, having previously disconnected the wires from it. To remove the drain pump, you need to loosen the screws and disconnect the clamps.To do this, press the latches with pliers and disconnect the drain hose and the pipe.

You need to disassemble the pump from the snail by unscrewing the screws on it. Remove dirt and mucus from the snail.

Pay attention to the impeller, rotate it on the shaft, whether it turns, whether it is damaged. If it is broken, replace the impeller with a new one.

Also check the rubber seals. If the gasket is cracked or torn, replace it. Next, pry the latch with a screwdriver and remove the motor from the coil. Remove the monolithic cross by warming it up with a construction hairdryer. Then pull the magnet off the shaft.

After that, clean all parts of the pump, remove dirt, check the bearing. Lubricate it. If broken, replace. Begin reassembly using the photograph taken before disassembling the drain pump.

So, we have removed all panels: front, back and top covers, control module. We will now show you how to disassemble the loading tank of the Lg direct drive washing machine.

This work in the service center is the most expensive, because the machine must be completely disassembled. The bearing and oil seal are located at the rear of the tank. To find out if the bearing is defective or okay, rotate the drum by hand.

If you hear a creak and hum, then the bearing does not work, it must be replaced.

As soon as you buy Lg, you immediately need to install the washing machine on a flat surface, adjusting it in level so that there is an even load on the bearings. If you see a leak in the back of the tank, then the oil seal has become unusable.

To get to the bearing, you need to completely disassemble the drum. You need to replace the part with a new one of this particular model. You cannot take a bearing from other machines, because it will not fit. When buying it in a store, pay attention to the integrity and quality of the part.

Direct Drive, or Direct Drive, is a new technology used by the Korean firm Lg. Thanks to it, the life of the washing machine is longer, because it does not have a drive belt.

The machine is quiet. In washing devices of this brand, the motor is located at the back of the loading tank, and not at the bottom, like in other devices.

We told you how to disassemble the loading tank in order to replace bearings and oil seals, how to remove the drain pump from the washing machine, disassemble and clean it. Now you know how to repair the device so as not to pay a lot of money for a complete disassembly of the machine and its restoration.

We clean the surfaces of the tank and drum from dirt, scale and deposits, as well as the joint.

It is not necessary to remove the sealing rubber.

Note that there are specialized bearing pullers. But the cost of such a mechanism is: 4-5 thousand rubles. For a one-time repair, it makes no practical sense to acquire them. Therefore, we use a hammer and a metal drift, which can be taken as a chisel. This is the best option.

Let's start with the oil seal. We pry it off with a strong screwdriver and pull it off. If it doesn't work out right off the bat, then soak it in a penetrating lubricant.

Then we knock out the outer bearing. We put the tank on a stand and strike with a hammer, moving the drift in a circle. As a rule, this is the easiest dismantling.

Then we remove the inner one in the same way. In case of difficulties, we use VD-40. This procedure is quite loud, so it can be carried outside in order not to irritate the neighbors.

Important! When dismantling, it is allowed to hit the inner rim of the bearing. When installing - absolutely not!

We clean and dry the seat and proceed with the installation of a new repair kit. We carry out the work in the reverse order. We put the oil seal last. Before installing it, we apply grease to the skirt, as well as the internal spring. For convenience, we use old bearings, cleaned from oil and dirt. That is, we hit them. This will prevent skewing during installation.

It is recommended to fix the gland with glue or self-tapping screws.

After cleaning the tank, carefully inspect the shaft, especially the stuffing box seat. LG is the only one who has this part made of stainless steel. In the event that the repair is carried out long after the beginning of the destruction of the bearings, this place can be damaged by rust. With minor flaws, the position can be corrected with a fine sandpaper. If there is significant damage, then a boring is required, or an additional ring fit. In this case, an oil seal with a different standard size is selected.

When connecting the tank, it is recommended to apply high-temperature sanitary silicone to the joint, to exclude possible leaks due to deformation of the rubber gasket.

All steps for assembling the washing machine are performed in reverse order and are straightforward.

During disassembly, the stages can be photographed sequentially.
All screws and screws are screwed back. This will avoid confusion.

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LG direct drive washing machines are in high demand among customers.The new design made it possible to significantly increase the engine resource, while the SM belongs to the affordable price segment.

But even such equipment is subject to breakdowns, and maintenance of LG washing machines in a service center is sometimes expensive. Therefore, we will tell you about the typical malfunctions of this brand and the possibilities of self-repair.

According to statistics, breakdowns of direct drive LJ washing machines occur after five years of operation. To understand where to start troubleshooting, let's look at how a direct-drive CM and a standard machine work.

Look at the diagram of the LG washing machine:

In the first case, the drum is rotated using a drive belt. In the second, the drum rotates the motor directly. Such a motor also does not have brushes that constantly wear out. In the event of a breakdown, you will immediately determine that the reason is in the motor, and not in the parts adjacent to it.

We have disassembled the principle of operation, now we will consider which nodes most often fail:

How can a user know where exactly the LG washing machine has broken down? For this, there is a self-diagnosis system. If a problem is detected, the system displays the EJ error codes on the display.

You just have to decipher the code and find the problem.

The Korean company LG makes great direct drive washing machines. This technology really significantly increases the service life of the engine and moving elements. However, these machines are also characterized by specific malfunctions, noted by the specialists of the service centers as the most common. If you are the owner of an LG washing machine, then in 80% of cases you will have to deal with the malfunctions discussed in this article.

Experts from the world's leading service centers note the relatively high reliability of LG washing machines. The most "tenacious" unit of this machine is considered to be the engine, which breaks down only in one case out of 500 calls to service centers, and then in half of the cases, the cause of the module malfunction is a factory defect. Moving elements are also considered to be quite reliable, except for bearings, they are repaired more often.

What units of the LG washing machine break down most often? Let's list them:

a heating element;
pressure switch;
bearings;
wires and terminals;
drain pump;
filling valve.

Malfunctions of these most important units of the washing machine manifest themselves in different ways. It is necessary to carefully analyze the "symptoms" in order to more or less accurately diagnose the problem of the module even before disassembling the "home assistant". In particular.

Note! When diagnosing faults in the washing machine with your own hands, be sure to listen and take a closer look at its work at the stages of washing, rinsing, spinning and draining. In addition, read the user manual, any deviations from the norm should alert you.

To get to the heating element of the washing machine, you need to unscrew several fasteners that hold the back wall of the LG washing machine by yourself, and then dismantle this wall. Next, you need to pay attention to the lower part of the tank (near the very bottom). Two paired contacts with a screw in the middle should stick out from there, to which several wires go - this is the ten. We check the contacts with a multimeter, if its display shows a value less than 20 Ohm - the ten is faulty.

Removing the ten is easy. We unscrew the screw mentioned by us with our own hands, pry on the sealing rubber with a screwdriver and pull out the heating element from the bowels of the tank. We visually check the status of the module. Burnt teng rarely does not have visually noticeable damage (usually these are burnt spots). In most cases, the heating element breaks down due to a layer of scale that settles on it. Also, a breakdown can be provoked by a voltage drop or water that gets on the contacts. The video guide will help you to correctly remove the ten.

Repair of this module of the LG washing machine is not possible, only replacement. It is necessary to purchase an original spare part from the manufacturer and install it in the tank of the washing machine, not forgetting to install the sealing rubber. In the process of installing the heating element, you need to be most careful about the sealing rubber of the heating element. To make it sit better in place, you need to lubricate it with a small amount of machine oil.

Important! If the sealing rubber of the heating element sits loosely in the bore hole, water from the tank will seep onto the contacts of the heating element and it will most likely burn out again in the near future. Be careful.

Washing machine electrical repair LG boils down to checking all the wires and terminals coming from the control module to all of its units. It's not just about checking all the wiring with a multimeter - it goes without saying. It is also necessary to carry out a visual check: torn clamps, fragments of wires without insulation, traces of burning and melting of contacts. All wiring problems that can be detected during the check must be resolved by replacing damaged conductors and terminals - this is the repair of the electrician.It is not difficult to diagnose faults in the filler valve of an LG washing machine on your own, and it will not be difficult to repair this module with your own hands, if you act methodically, according to a pre-planned plan. Dismantling and replacing the filler valve with your own hands is carried out in the following order.

Unroll the washing machine.

The inlet hose, which is connected at one end to the water supply, with the other end is screwed to the filling valve. We turn off the cold water supply by turning off the tap.

We unscrew the inlet hose.

We take out, check and clean the filter of the inlet valve, it may be clogged with dirt and the water does not pass.

If everything is in order with the filter, remove the top cover of the washing machine, unscrew the two screws holding the valve, disconnect it from the pipes.

Next, we need to check the rubber bands of the valve, in 90% of cases the problem is their wear and the inability to retain water in the future. If so, change the rubber bands.

If it's not about the rubber bands, then most likely the problem is in the control electrics of the valve. In this case, the entire valve must be replaced.

Image - LG direct drive washing machine DIY repair

Before the drain pump of the washing machine LG can be reached without even disassembling it. You just need to tilt the machine on its side, after that it will be possible to get close to the unit through the bottom. We check the drain pump sensor with a multimeter, if everything is in order, then the problem is in the unit itself. Next, we proceed in order.

Unscrew the lower part of the front panel of the machine.
We unscrew the fasteners securing the drain pump.
We substitute the basin, since water will flow from the unit during removal.
Disconnect the plugs and remove the wires with the sensor.
Disconnect the pipes, drain the water and remove the unit to the side.

Note! Before placing the clipper on its side, remove the powder cuvette as directed by the user manual, as water remaining in the cuvette may spill onto the control box and damage the electronics.

Once the drain pump has been removed, it is best to have it checked and repaired by a specialist. Only he can finally say whether the pump has really come to an end, if so, then you need to buy and install a new one. Assembly is carried out upside-down. The easiest way is to change the pressure switch (water level sensor) of the washing machine. If you manage to disassemble it correctly, then it will not be difficult to replace it yourself.

Bearing failures are a matter of time or a factory defect. The user can influence this process only by the intensity of the use of the home assistant. Bearing malfunctions must be repaired immediately, because if this is not done, the loose pulley can damage the tank and then repairs will be very expensive. In this case, the user manual will not help; you either need to contact a specialist or study specialized information.

Thanks to direct drive technology, which is implemented on most models of washing machines from the company LG, bearings, motor, pulley and other parts wear out much more slowly and last longer. Nevertheless, there are still cases of bearing failure, and this poses a problem for “self-repair lovers”. Not everyone knows how to properly remove the bearing from the drum, however, to start doing this, you need to remove and disassemble the washing machine tank.

Bearing repairs must be done very carefully, using a special hammer with a bronze bump and a thin metal rod. It is necessary to pull out the bearing by striking its opposite edges. First, we place the rod on one edge of the bearing and strike it lightly with a hammer, then transfer the rod to the other edge and again strike it lightly. The procedure must be repeated until the old bearing pops out, then a new bearing can be put in its place.

In conclusion, we note that malfunctions of any module of the LG washing machine, you can try to fix it. Of course, even if you study the relevant technical information and expert advice, successful repairs are not guaranteed, but it is definitely worth trying, especially since in most cases you have to deal with typical breakdowns. If something doesn't work, you can read the washing machine repair manual.

To begin with, you should know that most cars of this brand are equipped with an emergency display system. If the machine is persistently trying to "tell" something to you with signals on the control panel, you should not ignore it (even if it continues to work). Take the instructions and see what the problem might be. You will not have to resort to more complex repairs later.What are the most common problems with LG machines? Many faults are common to all washing machines. More often than other brands can fail - filler valves, drain pump, heating element. And the “Achilles heel” of LG's direct drive is the oil seals and bearings. Now - in more detail. First the problem, then the solutions.

There is no water in the mains.

The inlet hose is pinched or clogged.

The hose leakage valve (if equipped) has operated.

Filler mesh is clogged.

The water inlet valve does not work.

The pressure switch is not working properly.

Check for water in the plumbing system. If you turned it off, just wait for the resumption of its supply.

Inspect the condition of the hose. Eliminate pinching if necessary.

If the inlet hose has a safety valve, check its indicator. After the protection is triggered, the hose is changed to a new one (usually LG are equipped with conventional hoses, but options with a valve are sold separately).

The bay filter is removed with pliers. It is necessary to remove rust particles from it.

The filling valve can be checked by removing the top cover of the washing machine. When the valve is properly energized, it should open. Otherwise, it will need to be replaced.

The pressure switch is also located under the top cover and is attached to the housing. The tube suitable for it is checked for contamination. Further, the integrity of the wires and contact connections. The defective sensor must be replaced.

blockage in the sewage system;

the drain hose is clogged or kinked;

dirt on the drain filter;

the drain pump is faulty or blocked;

again, the notorious pressure switch.

What can be done to fix the problem. - Disconnect the drain hose from the sewerage system and check if water will come out of it? I went - then the problem is in the blockage of the pipe.
- If water does not come out of the hose, check it for blockages or pinching.
- We clean the drain filter. It is located at the bottom of the front of the washing machine under the lid and screwed into the body. Before removing the filter, you need to prepare a container to collect the flowing water.If there is a drainage tube near the filter, you need to use it to drain the water. No - we put the pallet under the car and unscrew the filter. Next, everything is thoroughly cleaned and set in place. More often than not, this is enough. If it doesn't help, let's move on.
- We check the drain pump. LG machines have more drain pump problems than other brands. This is due to the not very successful design of the drain path. What in turn provokes frequent blockages in the system. This prevents the pump from working properly. LG washing machines do not have a bottom. Therefore, the drain pump can be easily accessed by placing the machine on its side. We check the pump with a multimeter. Do not forget - when dismantled, water will flow from the pump. We disconnect the pipes and wires, unscrew the fasteners, take out the pump. A serviceable, but blocked, pump will have to be disassembled and cleaned of foreign objects. We replace the non-working one with a new one. - In principle, in modern LG machines, a thermal sensor (thermistor) is installed directly in the heating element. Therefore, we will check both the thermistor and the heating element at the same time. Remove the rear wall of the car (by unscrewing a few screws). We find at the bottom of the tank, a heating element inserted into it. We check the heating element circuit with a multimeter. For a thermistor, the test consists of measuring the resistance at room temperature and in a hot state - there should be a decent difference. Thermistors rarely fail. Therefore, it is most likely that the problem is in the heating element. It will be necessary to disconnect the wires from it and carefully pull it out of the tank. Then a new heater is installed and connected. We check the operation of the machine. - To check the relay, you need to check the state of the contacts on the control unit of the washing machine. To remove the control panel, you need to remove the top cover. Next, pull out the powder receptacle. Two screws are visible under it, which must be unscrewed. The panel is held by latches. From above we find them under the bar and squeeze them out. Carefully (without undue effort) pull the bottom of the panel up.All of the above malfunctions can be caused by a breakdown of the electronic control module. In this case, you will need to completely replace it. Changing the control unit yourself is not at all difficult. The main thing is to remember or photograph the location of the contact blocks. What to do? At the first squeaks and a suspicion of wear on the oil seal, it is better not to delay the solution to the problem. And do not wait until the bearing collapses. One way or another, you will have to disassemble the LG washing machine almost completely. Removable top cover, back and front wall. LG has an engine on the back of the tank instead of a pulley. First, the rotor bolt is unscrewed and the casing is removed. Then the stator mounts are twisted. And he's also filmed. As a result, you need to disconnect all pipes and wires that can connect the tank to the body. At the end, the shock absorbers are removed. The tank is removed from the springs and pulled out through the open facade. The screws securing the tank are loosened. Further, the process of knocking out the drum and replacing the oil seal and bearings is standard for all machines.As stated at the beginning, all parts for LG washing machines are readily available. And DIY repairs are totally realistic. And in comparison with the prices of services, the benefits for the home budget are very noticeable. Download dle 10.6 movies for free This article will guide you through the process of replacing the tank bearings of your LG direct drive washing machine.Direct drive, or Direct Drive Is a relatively new technology used by the Korean brand LG. Thanks to her, washing machines run quieter, since they do not have a belt, the engine is located at the back of the washing machine tank, and not at the bottom, as on other brands.First, remove the back wall and top cover. The top cover is fastened with two screws at the back, by unscrewing which the cover must be moved back.After pulling out the powder tray, remove the control panel, it is fastened with two screws, which will become visible when you pull out the tray and several latches from above. Disconnect the control panel power wires.

In most cases, the power wires can only be connected one way, but take a photo or write down the locations of the wires just in case.

Now you can remove the front wall itself, for this:

unscrew the two screws under the control panel
three or four screws on the bottom, under the bottom panel that snaps off
remove the O-ring from the drum cuff, it is convenient to do this with a flat screwdriver
slide the wall up and then towards you.

Inside, the power wires for locking the hatch fit to the front wall, they are also disconnected.

Your washing machine should now look something like this:

Remove the rotor, disconnect the stator power wires

Disconnect the power wires of the heating element of the washing machine

Remove the pipes:

the tank-drain pump connection is at the bottom right
the dispenser-tank connection is at the top, under the detergent dispenser

Remove the shock absorbers, they are located on the left and right under the tank

Remove the tank from the springs and pull out

Now you need to unscrew the screws on the tank, cut the tank in half, pull out the oil seal and knock out the bearings.

De-scale the tank, thoroughly clean the place for the new bearings. It is advisable to lubricate the rubber of the seal between the halves of the tank with silicone sealant. If the elastic is disconnected, then the place of its connection should be at the top.

To make the new bearings sit better, the installation site can be warmed up with a hairdryer. Lubricate the oil seal with special grease.

Reassemble the tank and washing machine in reverse order. After assembly, carefully check all connections, especially the clamps.

As you can see replacement of bearings - one of the most difficult types of repair, which is better to entrust to professionals. All our masters have extensive experience, in most cases we have the opportunity to replace bearings at the customer's home without taking the washing machine to the workshop.

All work is done with you. During the work, we use only Swedish SKF brand bearings, which will be demonstrated to you before installation. After completing the work, all old spare parts - bearings and an oil seal will remain with you.

Video (click to play).

We give a guarantee for the replacement of bearings - from 6 months to 1 year... You can order repairs on the website, in the Repair of washing machines section, or by phone 8 (917) 420-49-39.

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