In detail: a washing machine do-it-yourself pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
During the draining phase, the washing machine freezes or stops working altogether? Time to check the drain pump. In our article, you will learn how to disassemble a pump, learn how to locate it and do it yourself repairs.
Most machines have only drain pumps. They are responsible for draining the water after the end of the wash cycle. But in more modern models (Hansa, Bosch, Siemens), a circulation pump is used to increase the pressure and supply water. Its power ranges from 25 to 35 watts.
Both types are powered from a 220 Volt network.
Structurally, the pump consists of two parts: an engine with an impeller and a volute in the form of a plastic pipe. On one side, the volute is attached to the motor with two windings, on the other, a drain filter is installed. In older models of washing machines, the device may differ in the presence of two impellers instead of one. They pump fluid and cool the motor. In this case, the electrician is protected from the ingress of water by an oil seal.
Most often, the device fails for the following reasons:
Engine bushings are worn out;
The windings have shorted or broken;
Broken or blocked impeller.
But how to understand that a breakdown has occurred? Let's look at some examples.
You started a wash cycle and everything went well. But at the draining stage, the following happened:
The water is not drained from the tank;
The liquid leaves slowly, during spinning or pumping, the pump hums and makes noise;
Appliance stuck or disconnected in the middle of a cycle;
The engine runs, but water does not drain from the tank.
Before starting to repair the drain pump, listen to its work. If the pump hums during water intake, but the tank does not fill up, disassembly and troubleshooting are required. Depending on the CM model (Lg, Samsung, Indesit), the display may show an error code. You will find its decryption in the instructions, after which you can proceed with the repair.
Video (click to play).
The circulation pump supplies water to the washing area. If you notice that the laundry is not washed well or the detergent solution does not spray well in the drum during rotation, then an inspection, cleaning or replacement of the element is necessary.
It all depends on the model of the car. So, in the units "Samsung", "Ariston", Whirpool, LG there is no bottom, so to dismantle the pumping system it is enough to open access to the bottom part. To do this, you will have to lay the car on its side or on the back wall.
Often the circulation pump is located next to the drain.
An expensive part is installed in the models of German manufacturers Bosch and Siemens. Access to it is complicated by the need to dismantle the front wall.
Replacement is carried out through the back wall at CM Electrolux and Zanussi.
Having decided on the location of the part, proceed to disassembly and replacement.
Disconnect the equipment from the power supply and water supply. Start by checking the drain filter and impeller.
Open the hatch door at the bottom of the front panel;
Unscrew the filter counterclockwise;
Substitute the container and wait for the water to drain;
Clean the filter from debris, then shine a flashlight into its mounting hole;
You will see the impeller. If possible, scroll through it. If it does not rotate and is blocked, cleaning or replacement is required.
Lay the CM on the back wall. Lay a blanket on the floor so as not to damage the body;
There are three main ways of attaching the drain pump: with screws and bolts, bayonet and snaps.
First, disconnect the inlet hose and check for blockages. If after cleaning the equipment does not work normally, move on.
Remove the screws for the top cover.They are located at the back;
After removing the cover, unscrew the fasteners around the perimeter of the rear wall;
Begin inspection.
Pull out the powder cuvette by pressing the latch in the center;
Dismantle the top panel;
Detach the control panel fasteners. Disconnect contacts and set aside;
Bend the hatch cuff inside the tank, remove the clamp;
Unscrew the two bolts of the lock-blocking;
Disconnect the contacts of the lock;
Remove the front panel fixing bolts;
Remove from the place;
For replacement, choose a part that exactly matches the characteristics of the previous one. It is best to remove the broken item and go to the store with it.
Disconnect the pump contacts;
Loosen the clamps, remove the bolts. If the part is fastened with latches, press them with one hand and pry them with a screwdriver with the other.
After the pump is in your hands, inspect the mechanism. Clean the holes and impeller. Disassembly required?
Remove the pump snail (pump cover);
To do this, scroll it counterclockwise, or unscrew the bolts;
How to remove the impeller? It must be dismantled to clean the internal parts;
Pry up the latches of the case and remove it;
If the crosspiece cannot be removed, warm up its shank with a hairdryer, then pry it off with a screwdriver;
After pulling out the impeller magnet, clean it from dirt;
Remove the magnet from the shaft. Behind it you will see a bearing;
Use pump grease to restore bearing performance;
If the element cannot be restored, supply a new bearing;
Reassemble the case in reverse order.
Here's how the disassembly works:
VIDEO The mechanical check is over. Let's get down to electronics.
Take a multimeter tester;
Turn it into voltage measurement mode;
Apply the test leads to the contacts of the part;
Look at the screen. Is 0 or 1 on? The motor is burnt out and needs to be replaced;
If a three-digit number is displayed, then the problem may not be in the engine, but in the electronic board. A more accurate diagnosis will be carried out by the master.
Consider how to replace a circulation pump using the example of a Veko automatic washing machine.
Open access to the bottom of the CM;
The circulation device is located next to the drain. Turn off the wiring and attach the test leads of the multimeter to its contacts;
In normal condition, the resistance will be about 180 ohms. If there is a discrepancy, unscrew the fastening screws, install a new part.
Details of the repair are shown in the video:
VIDEO
How to prevent breakage? Make sure that no foreign objects get into the drum, check your pockets before loading clothes, choose the correct wash modes and clean the filters more often.
A breakdown of the pump during washing will make it impossible to drain water, thus, water will remain in the tank, and the hatch will not be able to open, since the control module will signal the continuation of washing or rinsing. Manufacturers use pumps of different design features and power, depending on the volume of water consumed.
If you are faced with a pump breakdown problem, contact our service center "RemonTechnik", where qualified specialists will diagnose and repair the drain pump, and you will be busy with your business.
If the machine does not start working correctly, then the following symptoms may indicate a pump malfunction:
The machine starts the drain program, as a result, the water is not drained, but remains in the tank;
When draining water, a characteristic sound is heard;
The water is pumped out slowly, not completely;
The machine turns off until the water is completely drained;
The control module freezes;
The pump motor hums, but the water does not drain.
If you notice one or more of the listed symptoms, then in most cases this is due to a pump breakdown. To make sure of this, you should also check the drain hose and filter. Debris can accumulate here, making it difficult for the water to flow.
The location of the pump may vary from brand to brand. The easiest way to dismantle the pump on "washing machines" from Indesit, Candy, Whirpool, Ardo, Beko, Samsung, LG, Ariston, since they can get to the required unit through the bottom. To open access to the pump, it is enough to put the household appliance on its side (so that the door is on the right, then the pump will be on top). Then unscrew the bolts (may be recessed head bolts), and remove the power terminals. Then disconnect the drain hoses, which are attached with clamps. Often manufacturers use disposable clamps, you should take care of spare ones for installing the pump.
Important! If the pump breaks down, water may remain in the drum, nozzles and filter, so you should remember about the container for water intake.
In washing machines from some German manufacturers, Bosch, AEG, Siemens, the bottom is sealed, so the pump can be accessed through the front panel. Dismantling includes the following steps:
Remove the container for washing powder;
Slide the top cover (it is fastened with two self-tapping screws located on the back wall);
Dismantle the control module. When disconnecting the terminals, it is important to remember where which one is connected to. Usually they have "foolproof" - they have different sizes;
Dismantle the bottom panel (under the hatch);
Remove the front panel of the "washing machine". Wires are connected to the sunroof blocker, they must be disconnected. Do not make sudden movements, as the contacts can be damaged. In the event that the panel does not lend itself, it is possible that the manufacturer used hidden bolts.
Remove the chips from the pump that provide voltage;
Release hose clamps.
Then you need to push on the pump and pull it out.
In new models of machines, in order to remove the volute from the pump, it is enough to turn it counterclockwise; otherwise, you will have to unscrew the bolts. Then you should disconnect the filter, and check the impeller's serviceability - whether debris interferes with its free rotation. The impeller may break if foreign matter enters.
If the pump is visually in order, it is necessary to disassemble the pump motor housing. To do this, you need to carefully push apart the plastic latches and remove the motor from the coil. You can also check the presence and integrity of the bearings.
As a result of their falling out, the impeller begins to rub against the volute, which leads to damage to both parts. All pump repairs are reduced to cleaning it, replacing oil seals and bearings. If the pump engine is damaged, then it is more expedient to replace it. Assembly and installation of the pump is carried out in the reverse order.
A video will help you to understand in detail how to repair a washing machine pump:
VIDEO
Before you rush to disassemble the washing machine with your own hands and change the pump, you should accurately determine the cause of the breakdown. It is very possible that the reason is not at all in the pump; here you need to understand as thoroughly as possible. Let's proceed as follows.
First you need to listen to the pump.
Open the drain filter and clean if necessary.
Check and clean the drain hose.
Check the rotation of the pump impeller; there may be a seizure.
Check the sensors and contacts going to the pump.
Some malfunctions can well be localized by ear, without being an expert, so go to the washing machine while you work and listen. Wait for the moment when the machine starts to drain or fill water, following the program. If the pump hums, tries to work intensively, but water does not flow into the tank or the pump does not make any sounds at all - consider that the malfunction is localized.
After you have made sure that the pump is not working as it should, you should determine exactly whether it needs to be replaced or whether you can make repairs on your own. First of all, we open the drain filter and clean it from debris with our own hands.
It is possible that the pump impeller is jammed due to a coin or bra bone caught in the filter, so it does not work as it should.
If cleaning the filter did not help, check the drain hose for blockages. To do this, the hose must be dismantled and rinsed with a jet of hot water. Replace the hose and run a test wash. If the pump continues to be "capricious", then you need to look further.
Next, you need to check the rotation of the impeller of the drain pump of the washing machine. The impeller can be reached even without disassembling the machine, through the drain filter, which must be unscrewed. To make it more convenient, get a flashlight and shine into the hole from which you unscrewed the plug.
In the hole you will see the pump impeller. Put your hand through the hole and turn the impeller with your fingers, checking how it works. If the rotation of the impeller is difficult, try to feel for foreign objects that are interfering (very often these are threads, pile, wire, etc.). If the impeller rotates freely or the reason for the difficult rotation has not been found, you will have to disassemble the washing machine with your own hands.
Having reached the pump, we check the impeller. If necessary, the drain pump can be dismantled and inspected more thoroughly. If there are no threads and lint, and the impeller still does not spin well, then the reason is in the mechanism and the pump must be disassembled. If the impeller rotates normally, but it works every other time, then the problem is in the burnt contacts, sensor or control unit.
If everything is checked, but the pump still does not work, then it must definitely be replaced.
The composition of the necessary tools and accessories will depend purely on the nature of the problem, so we will describe the option, as they say, to the maximum, if everything is completely bad with the pump. In this case, the repair of the washing machine may require the following components:
drain pump assembly;
impeller;
axis;
cuff;
pad;
pulley;
drain pump sensor;
contacts.
Purchase a new pump and parts for it with caution. It is best to take an old unit, take it to a retail outlet that sells similar products, and a sales assistant will help you make a choice. The same should be done with accessories. Bring the pump disassembled to the store and you will be given the right part for it.
Important! If you decide to order components in the online store, then you should search for them by the numbers that you need to read on the old pump you removed.
With tools, things are easier. In most cases, it can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver and a pocket knife. However, if there is a need to check the performance of an electrician (sensors, contacts, wiring), you will need to get a multimeter.
You don't have to disassemble the entire washing machine to get to a faulty drain pump. The repair will depend on the model of the vehicle and its manufacturer. It is very easy to get to the pump of washing machines of some manufacturers, with others it is more difficult, but first things first.
The easiest way is to get to the pump of washing machines: Samsung, Candy, Ariston, Ardo, Beko, Whirpool, LG, Indesit.To do this, turn the washing machine of one of these firms on its side, remove the bottom cover (if any) and the pump will be at hand.
The situation is a little more complicated with washing machines such as Electrolux and Zanussi. To get to their pump, you will need to unfold the washing machine and remove its back wall by unscrewing several screws.
The most difficult thing is to get to the pumps of washing machines from manufacturers such as AEG, Bosch, Siemens. In this case, you will have to dismantle the front wall together with the control panel. For information on how best to do this, read the article Replacing the pump in the washing machine.
As mentioned above, the pump of the washing machine is quite simple in design and it is not difficult to repair it. If there is no visible damage on it, then you need to disassemble it and carefully examine all the elements. One of the most common breakdowns of a washing machine pump is a standing impeller exit. Very often it just flies off the axis, while the pump itself will turn on, make sounds, but will not pump water. We see the solution to the problem in buying a new impeller and installing it in place of the old, broken one.
When disassembling the pump, carefully inspect all rubber gaskets. If even the slightest traces of mining are visible on them, the gaskets must be replaced. Also inspect all moving parts of the pump, including the pulley, for working and also replace if necessary. Pump parts cost a penny, but if you neglect their replacement, or use non-original spare parts, you can waste time and ultimately replace the entire pump.
Note! When carrying out repairs and dismantling an old pump, keep in mind that there can be quite a lot of stagnant water in it, so do not forget to put a container nearby or put a large rag.
As a result, we note that it is quite possible to repair the washing machine, or rather its pump, with your own hands, without resorting to the help of a specialist. To do this, you need to study the rules for the production of work and other useful information that we have presented thesis in our article. Good luck!
VIDEO
If there is a problem with the pump, machine can :
do not respond to the installed program;
make humming sounds when typing or draining water;
pour water into the drum in less than the required amount;
in the process of collecting water, a complete shutdown of equipment is possible.
To diagnose and, if necessary, repair the pump of the machine or replace it, you need:
open socket for removing clogging in the drain filter ... All small and foreign objects are here - hair, threads, buttons, seeds, etc .;
clean the drain hose ... Even if it looks intact, you still need to remove it and rinse it under the pressure of hot water;check the integrity of the contacts and the performance of the sensors going to the pump.
If, in the process of diagnostics, the pump was identified as the cause of the malfunction in the washing machine, then you will have to inspect it. To get to it, you need standard tools.
The gasket (rubber or plastic) is damaged by scale and dirt that settles on the impeller.
Improper connection of the pump or failure of the water level sensor causes the pump to operate continuously.
The pump will not be able to drain the water due to a clogged filter.
Small foreign objects will destroy the impeller. It's easy to diagnose. When starting the pump, the machine makes a whooping sound.
If we talk about the Zanussi, Electrolux models, then their pump is located behind the back cover, which will need to be removed.
The most difficult models in terms of disassembly are Bosch, AEG, Siemens. They will have to dismantle the entire front panel.
Under heavy loads, the pump is protected by fuses that are located on the winding of the part and turn off. When the temperature is normalized, the contacts are restored.
disconnect the pump from the snail ... In general, there are two types of fastening: simple screws and screwless (you just need to turn the pump counterclockwise). At this stage, you can find out if the impeller is spinning on the shaft. Normally, it should spin with small delays, the so-called jumps. This is due to the action of the magnet rotating in the coil. If it is difficult to turn and there is no debris, then you will have to completely disassemble the part and see if it is possible to repair the pump impeller of the washing machine.
shank low temperature. After heating the shank, the crosspiece with a magnet is removed from the body. Usually, dirt accumulates on the magnet and where it was pulled from. After cleaning, the magnet itself is removed. Further, the bearing will be visible, which is also cleaned and lubricated. After these procedures, the part is assembled back. There is a ring under the blades that should fit snugly into place. The oil seal may need to be replaced. VIDEO
Because of this, friction appears between the volute and the impeller, which causes malfunctions and repairs to the pumps of washing equipment. The problem can be solved by replacing the bearings. In an emergency, when there is no way to buy a new part, and the wash cannot wait, only the shortening of the blade by no more than 2 mm will save. This is done with a sharp knife.
After repair, the housing is installed in the coil and fixed. This completes the troubleshooting of the pump on its own.
If you follow these guidelines, you can significantly extend the life of the drain pump.
Use laundry bags.
In case of stubborn, coarse dirt, clean the clothes, and also dispose of animal hair by hand before immersing in the machine.
Install filters on the inlet of the filler pipe.
Prevent limescale.
When washing clothes with buckles, rivets, turn the clothes inside out.
VIDEO VIDEO
Do-it-yourself washing machine repair: how to repair a pump and an automatic machine, washing machine diagnostics
Fix it yourself: DIY washing machine repair
First, it would be nice to determine the cause of the breakdown.Sometimes it only seems that it is a pump, but it happens that it is not at all about it. Therefore, you first need to inspect the machine yourself.
This is done like this:
The pump should be listened to first;
Open and, if necessary, clean the drain filter;
Check and then clean the drain hose in the same way;
It is further necessary to check how the pump impeller rotates, sometimes it is a trivial jamming;
Next, you should check the sensors and contacts that go to the pump.
Some breakdowns of "washing machines" can be detected even by ear, and it is not necessary to be a master. Wait for the machine to drain (or fill). If you hear the pump humming, it tries to work intensively, the water does not enter the tank, or even there are no sounds from the pump at all, we can say that you have identified a malfunction.
Sometimes the pump only needs to be replaced, but in some cases it can be repaired. The impeller of the pump can get stuck from a bra bone or an ordinary coin that has fallen into the filter. Checking the drain hose for blockages is also needed. The pump impeller can be twisted and checked for foreign objects.
Often the impeller itself flies off the axis. And the pump turns on at the same time, even makes sounds, but does not pump water. You need to purchase a new impeller, and mount it in place of the broken one. When disassembling your pump, be sure to inspect the rubber seals.
It happens that even small signs of mining are visible on the gaskets, which means that it is better to replace these elements. Moving parts of the pump also need to be inspected. Usually, all pump parts are cheap, just buy original parts so that the repair is certainly of high quality. In a Samsung typewriter - only parts for Samsung, in Rainford - appropriate.
And this is a more difficult task, and if you are not sure that you know how an electric motor works, it is better not to take on such a task. What can "fly" in the motor? Lamellas, windings and brushes usually break.
The most common engine malfunctions:
Brushes ... Their damage is revealed through engine sparking. Worn out brushes are small, but the whole brush is long, without chips or cracks.Winding ... This malfunction is indicated by the operation of the engine with unclear noises, humming or crackling.Lamels ... If this is the case, simply inspect the manifold by removing the rotor completely from the engine.Replacing brushes is usually straightforward. It only happens that their attachments are hidden so deep that it has to be completely disassembled. Usually old engines sin with this, and if the sample is new, then it is enough to arm yourself with an ordinary screwdriver. She pushes on the fasteners that protrude near the collector itself.
When the brushes are replaced, you need to try to crank the electric motor. The brushes themselves should rustle softly along the lamellas, without clinging to them, without making any noise. To remove the element and put a new one, take pictures of everything. So you will save yourself from incorrect assembly of parts.
Let's say you are faced with the fact that the lamellas have peeled off. Rate how big the problem is. If the delamination is not more than half a centimeter, then you can cope with the task with a groove on a lathe. Then you need to clamp the rotor, and carefully align the thickness of the lamellas. Then carefully clean the gaps between the lamellas, there should be no traces of metal shavings.
The result is a flat surface made of a large number of lamellas. And after all, well-cleaned gaps are also important. And to make sure that everything is fine, you need to check the resistance between the lamellas with an ohmmeter. If the device shows a short circuit, then you need to more carefully clean the gaps.
Sometimes the groove will not work.Yet in most cases the effect is eliminated, not the cause. And it is no longer possible to return the lamellas to the factory form. If it peeled off completely, or even came off, it is time to throw the engine away, nothing can be done about it.
Very often, the machine simply does not start. And then the person wonders if it's time to call a special service. But the simplest diagnostics can be done independently. At least, if it's about starting (or rather, not starting) the machine.
The machine may not start for the following reasons:
There is no electricity - the outlet may be faulty, or the distribution board does not work, or the wire is damaged;
The start button is broken - the contacts could oxidize, or even a critical breakdown happened;
The lid is not closed tightly, which means that the hatch is not blocked - check the tightness of the hatch, the sensor should receive a signal to close the lid;
Defects of noise filters - when such an element fails, the access of electricity is blocked, the device does not turn on;
Damage to the electrical control module - well, here only professional repair is possible.
Everything related to software (timer breakdown, program selection) should be entrusted to professionals. Special diagnostics and the same repairs are needed here. Otherwise, you can simply harm by incompetent actions.
VIDEO
Washing machine breakdowns are common. And they very often talk about violations of exploitation. Consult with experts about the choice of detergents and care for the equipment itself. Machines during operation should not jump and "walk", if so, check if it is standing correctly and carry out a preventive inspection of the equipment.
It is quite possible to do it yourself repair the drain pump of your washing machine without calling the master. But first, you need to carry out the simplest diagnostics of the device.
If the machine does not work properly, before disassembling the drain system, you need to make sure that the malfunction is located exactly in this place. It can be determined by several criteria:
the water drain program has started, but the pumping system does not work;
during the drain, strong noises and buzz are heard;
water is pumped out, but flows out very slowly;
during the operation of the system, the machine may turn off;
the pump motor hums but no water flows out.
If one of these breakdowns is found, it can be said with a high degree of probability that the washing machine pump will have to be repaired.
There are different ways to remove the pumping system from the body of an automatic washing machine (CMA), depending on the model of the unit. In models Whirpool, Samsung, Ariston, Beko, LG, and others, no bottom ... Accordingly, you can remove the pump by tilting or laying the device on its side, and disconnecting the bottom panel (open the door or hatch). After that, you will see the screws that secure the snail with the filter to the front plate.
Everything is very simple in Electrolux and Zanussi CMAs. It is enough to open back cover machines, and you will see the desired unit, which must be disassembled. The most difficult access to the required part in the AEG AEG, Bosch and Siemens. You can get to the pump only by removing front wall washing machines.
But before removing and repairing the drain pump in the washing machine, you must first check the reasons due to which the water may not be pumped out:
severe blockage drain hose (it is necessary to remove it and clean it well);
drain filter clogged with debris (remove the filter from the snail and rinse well with water).If the check and cleaning did not give results, after a test run of the rinse and drain mode, you need to remove the part and try to repair it.
To disassemble your pump for troubleshooting, first disconnect it from the snails ... To do this, you need to unscrew the screws.
Some pump models have a different attachment to the volute.It is enough to turn it counterclockwise and it will detach.
In the next step of troubleshooting, check impeller. Although it can be seen without disassembling the entire structure: just pull out the drain filter. It is possible to visually determine whether it is broken or not. But to find out whether it scrolls on the shaft or is fixed will not work without complete disassembly.
The picture below shows a broken impeller due to a coin falling into the system.
The impeller should not turn easily. Normally, it turns with some delays (jumps), due to the magnet rotating in the coil.
If rotation is difficult, and no visible interference in the form of various debris is observed, then you will have to disassemble the pump completely.
To do this, using a screwdriver, pry the latch on the motor housing on both sides, and remove it from the coil.
There are also so-called “non-separable” motors, but they are also amenable to “treatment”.
After detaching the body with blades from the coil, we will see a monolithic part. It seems that the crosspiece cannot be removed. But there is a little trick.
Take the usual construction hair dryer , set it to the lowest temperature, put on gloves, and begin to warm up the shank of the part (its long part). Do this carefully.
After a while, when the shank warms up well, pry crosspiece screwdriver and carefully remove it (together with the magnet) from the housing.
There may be a lot of dirt on the magnet and in the place from which it was removed. Everything must be thoroughly cleaned, after which you can remove the magnet itself from the shaft. You will see bearing , requiring, respectively, cleaning and lubrication. Also lubricate the bearing on the bottom of the housing.
Then insert everything into place, with slight pressure until it clicks. Sealing ring under the blades should fit snugly into place.
The picture below shows a dirty motor from an Indesit typewriter.
In motors of this type, in addition to the above procedures, it may be necessary to replace the oil seals.
Contamination is not the only reason for the device to malfunction. If the bearings fail, beating occurs during the rotation of the shaft. Due to the beating, the impeller begins to rub against the casing of the snail. This causes noise and unproductive operation of the pump, even to a complete stop.
This problem is solved by replacing ball bearings, which can be purchased at specialized retail outlets or at a service center for servicing household appliances.
If at the moment there is no opportunity to buy a new part, and the wash cannot wait, then you can temporarily extend the life of the pump by shortening blades 2 millimeters with a sharp knife. But don't overdo it: if you cut more, system performance will drop.
After cleaning, replacing bearings or oil seals, the repair of the motor can be considered complete. Install the housing with blades into the spool and secure with latches. Subject to safety rules, connect a voltage of 220 V to two contacts, and check the work devices. After making sure of the normal operation of the device, you can connect the volute and return the entire structure to the SMA housing.
As you can see, repairing a washing machine pump with your own hands is not such an impossible task and everyone who has carefully read these recommendations can do it.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
