Top loading whirlpool washing machine DIY repair

In detail: top loading whirlpool washing machine DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

People buy washing machines with top loading much less often than with front loading - this is a fact.

The tightness of the parts of the machine makes it difficult to disassemble
Increased vibration during spinning
On some machines it is not possible to level the rear feet
Corrosion of the top cover from moisture
Spontaneous opening of the drum flaps in case of imbalance

Narrow and deep, and fits perfectly into confined spaces in the bathtub, closets or kitchen
No need to bend over to load the laundry
Ability to interrupt the program and add laundry
Child safety. Control panel location.

Features and nuances for self-repair of vertical units:

The device contains the same elements (pressure switch, water intake valve, drum, tank, control board, pump, and so on).
The axis of the drum is structurally made on two bearings; a self-positioning sensor is sometimes located on the tank (fixing the drum with the flaps up).

We will show the dismantling of units using the example of Electrolux:

1.From the sides, using a screwdriver, release the control panel
2.Pull the plastic panel up and slide towards you
3. We tilt at a small angle towards ourselves to dismantle the wires from the board connectors
4. Take out the panel

To remove the electronic control module, disconnect the remaining wires and unscrew the screws shown in the figure.
For quick and correct assembly, take pictures of the connection points of the wire loops.

To remove the water inlet valve, disconnect the rubber hoses from the clamps and dismantle them.
Detach the wires and from the outside press on the holes to push out the valve.

To remove the side panels, unscrew a few screws, do not forget to save the washers for grounding the case.
Bend the wall from below with your hand and slide it down.

After removing the two side panels, access to the screws for dismantling the front panel appeared.

To remove the NTC sensors and self-positioning the DSP drum, it is enough to remove the right wall and dismantle them.

Frequent malfunction - there is no way to change the program .:

Example - Hotpoint Ariston ARTL 1047.

Many "craftsmen" sin that the control module is to blame for everything. But no!

It is enough to unscrew the two screws from the back and remove the control panel.

This very cracked handle is the culprit. Use the metal ring (the plug from the antenna for example).

By squeezing the plastic handle, the ring will prevent programs from skipping.

Blown up top of the Indesite vertical, Ariston:

Video (click to play).

001 - control knob 002 - white on-off / reset buttons 003 - white control panel 004 - bitron switch 005 - function keys 007 - display
008 - cover handle 010 - dispenser unlocking lever 011 - dispenser hook spring 012 - disengagement button dispenser 016 - cover support
018 - partition with shock absorber 021 - door interlock device 022 - white dispenser 023 - siphon cover 026 - control panel wiring 027 - 8-pos. potentiometer

There is an opinion that two drum supports instead of one are good.

This is not the case, and in the case of "vertical" it is just a forced engineering decision. The service life of the drum bearings does not increase for a minute.

If the screws are hard to loosen, heat them up with a blowtorch.

Use a special grease for oil seals - Litol-24, TsIATIM-221, SHRUS-4M, etc.

On "Kandy", in order to change bearings, you need to disassemble the whole machine to the screw! And what is the wild tightness in the depths of the "vertical". Sometimes you have to do everything literally by touch.

Whirlpool washing machines are in high demand in the market. The devices of this manufacturer are of high quality and reliability, while they can boast of a completely democratic price tag. There are machines made in Slovakia and Italy on sale. Italian assembly is noticeably more expensive, but it is hardly worth overpaying, cars from Slovakia also have excellent consumer characteristics.

On average, one out of fifteen cars of this manufacturer is sent for repairs during the service life, which is a completely acceptable result. Certified service centers can be found in almost any major city in the country, so there will definitely not be any problems with repair and maintenance. Repair of Whirlpool washing machines can be entrusted to the specialists of the center, and if you have experience of such work, you can do it yourself.

An automatic washing machine is a complex device, it consists of many components and assemblies, each of which can fail. The list of possible malfunctions of Whirlpool washing machines is very extensive; a complete repair manual will be in several volumes. The most common problems are the following: not working drain, heating problems, wear or breakage of the cuff.

Perhaps the most common problem Whirlpool washing machine owners face. The machine stops and instead of emptying the water, displays an error message. There may be several reasons for the inoperative drain:

Before starting the repair of the Whirlpool washing machine with problems with the drainage system, it is necessary to remove the water from the drum. The manufacturer has provided an emergency drain especially for such situations. It is easy to remove the water, for this you just need to remove the cork, having previously not forgotten to substitute the water container.

After the water is removed, you can proceed directly to the repair. The machine is retractable for ease of use. The hose is checked for contamination and kinks.

After the hose, check the cleanliness of the drain filter. It catches threads, rags, buttons, which can cause blockages. It must be removed and rinsed. Also, it will not be superfluous to clean the drain using a flexible cable or curved wire.

If the filter is clean, there is no blockage inside the hose, and the machine still does not drain water, the drain connection and pump should be checked. To do this, it is necessary to partially disassemble the machine.

Read also: Candy cs2 104r DIY repair

The device is disconnected from the network, water supply and sewerage.
The detergent drawer is removed.
The machine is placed on its side.
The bolts holding the bottom are unscrewed.

Having gained access to the pump contacts, the resistance of the windings is measured with a multimeter. If the device shows an open circuit, a replacement is required. The old pump is removed, the drain pipe is cleaned of dirt and scale. Replacing the pump, the machine is assembled, connected to communications, and the drain is checked.

If the operation of any program stops when you try to heat the water, and the display shows an error message from the heating system, one of the most likely causes is an inoperative heating element. In principle, it is impossible to repair a burned-out heater, the only possible way out is to replace it. In Whirlpool washing machines, the heating element changes quite simply, this procedure can be done by hand.

The machine is disconnected from the mains and water supply.
The device pivots or moves away from the wall for ease of use.
The back cover is unscrewed with a screwdriver.
The bracket is removed, blocking access to the heater.

Behind the bracket are the terminals of the heating element, the contact pad.To check the heater, it is not necessary to remove it, it is enough to disconnect the wires going to it.

To test the heater's performance, use a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. A non-working heating element will show infinite resistance, a working one - several tens of Ohms, depending on the model.

The burnt out heating element must be replaced. Perhaps the only difficulty that may arise during its replacement is rust. The screw fixing the heater can rust so much that you cannot do without the use of special tools, for example, WD-40.

The old heater is removed, a new one is installed in its place, together with it it is worth replacing the rubber gasket, otherwise leaks are possible due to aging of the rubber.

This is another common problem that can be easily dealt with on your own. It manifests itself in the fact that during washing, water seeps through the cuff, the seal of the loading door of the machine. The reason for this phenomenon is the loss of elasticity of the cuff or its incorrect installation during the repair process.

Replacing the cuff is easy, you just need to follow a series of simple steps.

Open the hatch all the way.
Pry off with a screwdriver and remove the plastic holder
Unscrew the fixing bolt, thereby freeing the collar.
Pull the cuff towards you.
Carefully insert a new one. In this case, it is not recommended to use sharp objects in order not to damage the thin rubber.
Put on the clamp, tighten the bolt.

The cuff is a simple detail, but the safety of washing depends on its quality. The right choice is an original part, made in Italy or Slovakia. Buying a cheap fake, you will be able to save a little, but it is quite possible that you will soon have to disassemble the car again.

The list of faults that you can deal with yourself is not limited to those described above. Knowledge of the machine and the ability to understand its messages will solve most of the possible problems.

In any case, before starting repairs to Whirlpool washing machines, it is necessary to identify the malfunction and find its cause. The manufacturer took care of the ease of repair; for this, an automatic testing system is included in the firmware, the result of which, in the form of an error message, is displayed on the indicator.

The first thing to check when such errors occur is the presence of water in the water supply and its pressure. If the pressure in the system does not correspond to the nominal value, the wash will have to be postponed until the water supply is normalized.

It is worth paying attention to the condition of the inlet valve. A mesh is installed in it, which plays the role of a filter; if necessary, it should be washed or replaced.

If water enters the machine normally, but an error still occurs, the reason may lie in the sensor that controls the water level. It is worth checking the sensor itself, its connection, and possibly the control module.

This error can occur if the inlet valve is blocked. It must be checked and, if necessary, replaced. The same error can appear in the event of a water leak. It is worth carefully examining the installation site of the machine. If a puddle appears, the wash will have to be rescheduled until the malfunction is corrected.

If the machine refuses to drain the water, the entire drain path must be checked. The reason may be clogging of the filter, drain hose, its excessive kink. A breakdown or clogging of the drain pump leads to such errors. In rare cases, the cause may be a malfunction of the controller.

The machine does not heat the water or its temperature parameters do not correspond to the values set in the program. The reasons for this problem may lie in the heating element or temperature sensor. In any case, for repair, you will have to disassemble the device, test the heating element with an ohmmeter, and replace it if necessary. The same with regards to the sensor.

A tachogenerator is a small device that is installed on the engine to control its speed.The most common cause of this error is a flying spring washer or a break in the conductors going to the device.

The source of the malfunction is the controller board. For repair, it is necessary to remove it and replace the parts that are out of order.

The heater of a washing machine is one of the most vulnerable parts of it. Contacting with water of not the best quality, it becomes covered with scale, it noticeably reduces its characteristics. This error can mean:

burned out or broken heater;
the pressure switch does not work;
faulty controller;
damaged or burnt temperature sensor.

To eliminate faults, it is necessary to disassemble the machine, check and, if necessary, replace the heating element or the faulty sensor.

The appearance of any of these errors signals the failure of the electric motor or wiring diagram. To eliminate them, it is necessary to check the temperature relay and control triacs on the board. Burnt parts will have to be replaced.

Errors F27 and F28 indicate the impossibility of rotating the motor in the opposite direction and too slow rotation, respectively. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, replace the reverse relay and switching of the windings.

Motor winding problems are more difficult to diagnose. Burnout of one or several windings, breakage in them, lack of contact, insulation damage is possible. In most cases, the engine will have to be replaced, with the exception of worn collector brushes.

Most often, the source of these errors is the mismatch of the parameters of the electrical network with the required values. It is necessary to check the voltage in the outlet, and also take measures to normalize it. It will not be superfluous to use a stabilizer to connect the machine.Errors appear in the event of various failures in the controller's work. To rectify the situation, it may be necessary to re-flash the module, and possibly its complete replacement.Also, the cause of errors can be hidden in faulty wiring, breakage of one or more wires going from the control module to the actuators and sensors. In this case, it is necessary to "ring" each conductor, if necessary, replace the damaged one.The sensor detects an excessive amount of foam, which can cause damage to the machine. It is necessary to replace the detergent and repeat the wash. Image - Top loading whirlpool washing machine DIY repair

The first of these errors appears in case of impossibility of the normal execution of the program due to a malfunction of the control unit, the second due to the impossibility of transmitting a command from the module to the executive devices. To eliminate them, it is necessary to disassemble the machine, check the integrity of the wiring and components of the controller board.

The reason is that the pressure switch, the sensor that controls the water level, does not work. Replacement required. Image - Top loading whirlpool washing machine DIY repair

This error signals that an attempt to update via the Internet has ended in failure. You may need to check your router settings or contact your ISP.

The appearance of these errors signals that the hatch is not closed tightly or the corresponding sensor does not work. It is worth trying to open the hatch and close it again, if the error persists, replace the sensor.

Most Whirlpool washing machine breakdowns can be dealt with at home. For this, a small set of standard tools is enough, the ability to use it and, of course, desire. Of course, you should not try to repair a car whose warranty period has not yet expired, and you should not undertake repairs without experience in working with electrical equipment. It is important to soberly assess your strength and, in case of the slightest doubt, contact the repair shop.

Heading: AdvertisingDate of publication: 31.07.2017 2017-07-31Article viewed: 366 times Do-it-yourself Whirlpool washing machine repair // Young Scientist. - 2016. - No. 10.- URL https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1223/archive/114/46158/ (date accessed: 18.10.2018).

Unscrewing the plug and getting rid of impurities formed on the filter device
Removing the drain hose and cleaning the dirt
Checking the clogging of the sewer line

If the temperature of your washing machine has stopped reaching a certain level, pay attention to the heating element and thermistor. It is necessary to perform the following actions:

Removing the instrument back cover and bracket
Disconnecting the wire from the ten and the thermistor
Measuring the resistance of the tena and thermistor contacts using a multimeter
Determination of the malfunction of the heating element, with its further removal and replacement with a new one.

It happens that after turning on the Whirlpool brand washer, the control panel starts to glitch, not responding to touch or stopping to work. In such cases, the first step is to immediately remove the device from the electrical network for a couple of minutes. If the problem repeats after switching on, it can be concluded that the contacts in the control board are loose.

If water begins to leak out from under the hatch, you need to pay attention to the rubber lining that envelops the opening and contributes to a snug fit of the lid. To extend the life of the cuff, remove excess dirt and fluid that has accumulated in the bottom. So that the material does not crack and can serve the maximum amount of time, you need to adhere to certain rules of use.

Whirlpool washing machines, which work in automatic mode and have top loading, are actively snapped up by owners of many small spaces. This is facilitated by their small size and ease of use. Other advantages include the existing ability to stop a given program and restart with new settings. However, as you know, nothing is eternal, and in cases of a breakdown of the unit, it is imperative to engage in its diagnostics and repair. It should be borne in mind that the services provided by modern centers cannot be called cheap.Therefore, we will talk about an independent step-by-step disassembly of the Whirlpool washing machine with a vertical loading mode.

You can start self-repairing a top-loading unit of this brand by following these steps:

By releasing the panels on the right or left side
Lifting up and pulling the screen panel towards you
Disconnecting the wires from the board and removing the panel at a slight angle

Thanks to the repair of the Whirlpool washing machine with your own hands, you can significantly save money! If you didn't manage to do it yourself - call EuroBytService and forget about the problems. To minimize breakdowns, it is necessary to adhere to safety standards, to carry out efficient maintenance and high-quality cleaning of devices.

Currently, the market of the CIS countries is mainly represented by Whirlpool washing machines assembled in Italy or Slovakia. Italian cars are quite expensive and less common, but Slovak washing machines are available in every home appliance store. Perhaps due to European assembly, such machines break down infrequently and repair of Whirlpool washing machines is required only for one of 15 owners of such equipment. Nevertheless, you need to study its features, because you never know what!

Any complex technique, especially household one, can potentially break anything. If you list all, without exception, possible breakdowns of modern automatic Whirlpool washing machines and describe their elimination, you can write a book about this. Therefore, within the framework of the article, we will only talk about typical defects, which, according to statistics provided by service centers, are most common.

The water does not leave the machine after washing.
Washing programs are buggy, do not work as they should, or do not activate at all.
The water drawn for washing does not heat up according to the set program.
Water leaks during washing from under the closed manhole cover.

Note! In these typical signs of breakdowns, serious malfunctions are encrypted, the elimination of which is of paramount importance, since otherwise the Whirlpool washing machine may break down completely.

Probably, this happened to you too, put the laundry in the drum, put on your favorite washing program and go to another room to do your household chores. After a while, come back, the machine is frozen, there is a full tank of soapy water in it, and of course the washing is not completed. You restart the machine, history repeats itself, the wash cannot be completed, since the water does not leave the tank. What to do in such a situation, and what is the cause of the problem? There are three main reasons:

there is a blockage in the drain pipe or drain filter;
there is a blockage in the drain hose or sewer;
the electric drain pump has broken.

But before you start to find out the reason for the breakdown of your Whirlpool car, you need to prepare it with your own hands, namely, turn off and drain the water from the tank manually. Quickly and safely remove all water from the tank through the emergency drain hoselocated next to the drain filter. It is necessary to substitute a basin or other container under the hose and open the stopper and all the water will flow out by itself. Next, let's start looking for a breakdown, moving from simple to complex.

We put a container or rag under the hole of the drain filter and unscrew the plug. We clean the filter from dirt and put the plug in place.
Carefully unscrew the drain hose and clean it from dirt, then screw it into place.
We check if the sewer is not clogged.

The above steps do not imply disassembly of the Whirlpool washing machine, therefore, after carrying out a "general" cleaning, try to start the machine again. If nothing has changed and the machine still refuses to drain the water, then you will have to climb into its body.

Important! In almost all models of Whirlpool washing machines, in order to get to the drain pipe and the pump, you just need to turn the machine on its side and remove the bottom.

To get to the details of interest to us, we will perform the following steps:

take out the powder tray;
we disconnect the machine from the water supply, sewerage and electrical network;
we put the machine on its side;
unscrew the fasteners and remove the bottom;
we take a multimeter and measure the resistance at the pump contacts;
we change the drain pump to a new one, if the problem is not in it, then proceed to the next stage;
we loosen the clamps of the drain pipe and remove it;
we clean from blockages and put in place.

It so happens that after turning on the washing machine, its control panel seems to go crazy. The display starts flashing, and it is echoed by all the lights and indicators of the toggle switch. In this case, the washing program may not be set. If you are faced with something like this, unplug the machine immediately and wait about 1 minute. Then turn on the Whirlpool washing machine again and if the problem persists, call the wizard. Here it is a matter of the control board, and it is extremely difficult to repair it with your own hands, it is better not even to waste time and effort.

But if your machine refuses to wash in warm water, then you can not only independently determine the malfunction, but also fix it yourself, without the help of a specialist. Most likely the reason lies in the heating element or thermistor, in any case, you will have to check both elements at once. We act as follows.

We turn the washing machine with the back wall towards us, so that it is convenient.
We unscrew the bolts and remove the back wall of the machine.
We unscrew the bracket, which will interfere with working with the heating element.
At the bottom of the tank, we will see two protruding contacts - these are ten. Four wires fit to it, two in the middle to the thermistor and two along the edges to the heating element, you need to disconnect them all.
We take a multimeter and measure the resistance of the thermistor contacts.
If everything is in order, we measure the resistance on the heating element.

In this case, you will most likely find a malfunction and you will have to replace the heating element. Usually, when removing the heating element from the tank, the cause of the breakdown becomes immediately clear, since the surface of the heating element is completely covered with scale. If there is a little scale, then the teng will not burn out from it, it is another matter if the layer of water stone is more than a centimeter - this leads to a breakdown of the element of the Whirlpool washing machine. We will replace the heating element with our own hands.

We have already removed the contacts with the wires, now we will unscrew the plastic shield.
Next, unscrew the bolt that is located between the large contacts of the heating element.
We grasp the contacts of the heating element with our hands and pull it towards ourselves, if the heating element does not go, try to gently shake it. The rubber pad will get in the way a little, but it can't be helped
Having pulled out the heating element, we also remove the gasket.

Note! Experts recommend not to install a new heating element on an old rubber gasket, it is better to change it together with the heating element, since a leak for this element is the worst thing.

We take out dirt and pieces of scale from the hole formed, thoroughly clean the edges, and then insert a new gasket.
We insert a new ten and screw it on.
We fasten the plastic shield.
We connect the contacts with wires to the thermistor.
We connect the contacts with wires to the heating element, put the bracket and the back wall in place.

If, during washing and rinsing, water leaks from under the hatch of your Whirlpool washing machine, first a little, a few drops, then more and more, then you need to carefully inspect the largest rubber gasket in the machine - the cuff. It is impossible not to notice the cuff, since it encircles the opening of the hatch and serves to keep water out of the tank.

Pay particular attention to the bottom edge of the cuff as dirty water often collects there. And if you do not wipe it, then the rubber of the cuff in this place begins to crack and burst. In the future, it is worth touching it a little and it breaks. A torn cuff cannot be used, since it will not hold water, you will have to change it. First, we properly dismantle the old cuff.

We open the hatch cover as wide as possible.
We take a flathead screwdriver and try to pry off the thin wire clamp that is located on the outside of the cuff and holds it.
As soon as we manage to pry it off, we bring a screwdriver harder under it and begin to move in a circle until we find a connecting element with a bolt.
We loosen the clamp and remove it to the side.
We grasp the cuff with both hands and pull it out with effort.

Be sure to purchase only the original cuff for replacement, which clearly fits into the groove of the hatch of this model of the Whirlpool washing machine, otherwise problems may arise.

Unpack the new cuff and push it into the groove. In this case, you need to do everything carefully and naturally, do not use any sharp tools like a screwdriver. As soon as we manage to put the cuff in place, we put a clamp on it, tighten it. We check that the hatch closes normally, and we start a test wash.

Summing up, we note that European-assembled Whirlpool washing machines are relatively reliable and do not have many typical breakdowns. Most often, problems arise due to the fact that the user himself does not take good care of his "home assistant" does not clean the hoses and filters on time, does not wipe the cuff, and all this ultimately results in a malfunction. Take care of your washing machine, and it will not have to be repaired often!

Equipment does not always break down during the warranty period. Therefore, the user has to independently solve the issues of restoring the operation of the washing machine. Whirlpool washing machines can be repaired by yourself. In the post, we will provide a step-by-step troubleshooting guide. To do this, you need hands and a small set of tools.More and more often, Whirlpool washing machines of Slovak assembly are supplied to our markets, less often - Italian. And although the users of this technique turn to the services 15 times less often than the owners of other brands, breakdowns still happen.Troubleshooting is made easier with built-in system diagnostics. Failure of a unit or part of the CMA is displayed on the screen with an error code (FH, F02, F05, F06, F07, F09, F10, F11, F13, F14, F15, Sud, FdL, FdU). The meaning of the code can be found in the instructions, and then proceed with the repair of the device.What are the most common fault codes:

F02 - water does not leave the tank.

FH / F09 - overflow, problems with the pressure switch.

F06 - problems with the engine or tachometer.

FdL / FdU - problems with blocking the hatch.

But even if the error did not get out on the display, you can determine the breakdown by external signs. In theory, anything can break in the washer. We will only list typical faults that users deal with most often.

Heating element problems... Washing takes place in cold water, the laundry is poorly washed and rinsed.

Engine malfunction... The drum does not spin well or does not spin at all. Things are not push-ups. Perhaps the reason is the wear of the motor brushes.

Leaking from under the hatch... Damaged or worn seal lip, metal corrosion.

Broken electronic board... The machine does not turn on or malfunctions, programs are not activated correctly.

Water does not drain from the tank... The reason is blockages, pump malfunction.

In half of the cases, repairs are carried out independently, at home. How? More on this below.Start by preparing the technique. This also applies to your safety: disconnect the machine from the mains, close the water inlet valve. Now you can figure out the causes of the problem and decide where to start the repair.It is likely that you are faced with such a situation: you loaded the laundry, started the wash, and at the end the machine refused to drain the water. There may be three reasons for this:

Clogged drain or filter.

The hose or drain is clogged.

The pump is out of order.

You can check the system for clogging without disassembling the MCA. Start by unscrewing the filter:

There is a small door under the loading door.

Open it, substitute the container.

Unscrew the filter plug counterclockwise.

Remove debris from the filter mesh. In the opened landing hole, you can inspect the pump impeller. Sometimes it is blocked by hair, threads that wind on its axis. Clean out debris from the impeller.Now check the hose. Direct connection to the sewer often leads to its clogging. It is much better to connect the drain hose to a siphon. It is easier to clean when needed.Sewerage cleaning is carried out with special means or the help of a plumber is needed.If the parts are cleaned, but the drain has not improved, then check the pipe and pump. To do this, lay the washer body on one side.

Take out the powder dispenser.

Place an old blanket or towel on the floor.

Turn the SM body on its side.

Loosen the hose clamp. Remove it from its place, clean it from the blockage. You can rinse the part with warm water.

Check your pump. In the event of a malfunction, a replacement is carried out: disconnect the wiring from the pump contacts, unscrew the fastening bolts.

Your clothes get rid of dirt well thanks to the high temperature and detergent. In cold water, the powder does not dissolve completely, so stains do not come off well. The heating element is responsible for heating in the washing machine. Scale becomes a common cause of its breakdowns. To check or replace an element, do this:

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws on the back.

Remove the bolts around the rear cover. Take it off.

There is a heating element under the tank.

Disconnect the wiring, remove the thermistor from the heater body.

Check the heater for serviceability (for details on the diagnostic process, read "How to check the heating element in the SMA").

If the element is out of order, then twist the central nut and push the bolt inward.

Take out the old heating element, clean its socket from debris and scale.

Install a new heater.

Some suggest installing the old gasket on the new TEN if it is intact. We recommend changing the gasket too to eliminate the risk of leakage and new replacement.Notice the slow spin of the reel? Does the outlet remain wet and not wrung out? It's time to check the condition of the engine brushes and drive belt.In collector motors, the rotor is supplied with current through the brushes. They are installed on the sides of the case. The rods of the elements made of soft material will wear out, causing the operation to stop.

Dismantle the rear wall.

Remove the drive belt. Examine it. When stretched and worn, the part must be replaced.

When replacing the brushes for the first time, it is better to remove the motor from the case.

Disconnect its wiring, remove the bolts.

Disconnect the terminals of the brushes, remove them from the housing.

When worn more than half, replacement is required. Insert new parts into holes, secure wiring.

Spin problems can be related to bearing wear. At the same time, extraneous sounds are heard: creaking, hum.Washers of the "Whirpool" family have an unpleasant feature - rapid corrosion of the body. Some parts of the clipper are made of metals, which corrode quickly and can lead to leakage. Damaged panels need to be replaced, staining will not help them.Leaks can arise from the cuff of the hatch. Rubber is sensitive to long-term accumulation of moisture. If not wiped off in time, the cuff will wear out, crack and leak. Only a complete replacement will help.

Fold back the seal. Pry the clamp with a screwdriver, remove it from the place.

Tuck the rubber into the drum.

To remove the inner clamp, you can remove the front panel or loosen the clamp screw through the top cover.

Then carefully remove the rubber.

Installation of new rubber is carried out in the reverse order. Lubricate the edges with detergent to make installation easier.Problems with a part of the electronics are manifested in braking modes, incorrect start of programs, "glitches". Repair requires a control module schematic.It is better to entrust this work to the master. And you can inspect the board yourself:

Remove the top cover.

Remove the detergent drawer.

Remove the bolts around the control panel.

Disconnect the wiring from the module.

Remove the top guard by unfastening the latches.

Burning or oxidation on the surface of the board indicates a malfunction. Take the part to a service or call a specialist at home.Not only front models are prone to breakage. However, the repair work is described only for them. We decided to correct this oversight.Almost all verticals are arranged the same:In such machines, the bearing and other parts are more likely to wear out, because all the nodes are close to each other. To fix the problem, you still need to get to it.How to disassemble the Whirlpool washing machine:

Disconnect the device from the mains and water supply.

Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the control panel latches. Pull out the wiring pins if necessary.

To remove the top panel, unscrew the screws at the back. Lift it up, secure with a string or chain so that the lid does not fall off.

Unfasten the balancing ring latches on the centrifuge. Move it aside.

Unscrew the screw and take out the centrifuge activator.

Twist the axle washer and remove the drum from the tank.

Assembly is carried out upside-down. Along the way, you can inspect and replace the necessary items.If your vertical loading device is different from the one described, watch the video on how to change the bearing on a vertical loading machine: