In detail: whirlpool washing machine DIY repair of the lid lock from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Whirlpool washing machines are in high demand in the market. The devices of this manufacturer are of high quality and reliability, while they can boast of a completely democratic price tag. There are machines made in Slovakia and Italy on sale. Italian assembly is noticeably more expensive, but it is hardly worth overpaying, cars from Slovakia also have excellent consumer characteristics.
On average, one out of fifteen cars of this manufacturer is sent for repairs during the service life, which is a completely acceptable result. Certified service centers can be found in almost any major city in the country, so there will definitely not be any problems with repair and maintenance. Repair of Whirlpool washing machines can be entrusted to the specialists of the center, and if you have experience of such work, you can do it yourself.
An automatic washing machine is a complex device, it consists of many components and assemblies, each of which can fail. The list of possible malfunctions of Whirlpool washing machines is very extensive; a complete repair manual will be in several volumes. The most common problems are the following: not working drain, heating problems, wear or breakage of the cuff.
Perhaps the most common problem Whirlpool washing machine owners face. The machine stops and instead of emptying the water, displays an error message. There may be several reasons for the inoperative drain:
Before starting the repair of the Whirlpool washing machine with problems with the drainage system, it is necessary to remove the water from the drum. The manufacturer has provided an emergency drain especially for such situations. It is easy to remove the water, for this you just need to remove the cork, having previously not forgotten to substitute the water container.
After the water is removed, you can proceed directly to the repair. The machine is retractable for ease of use. The hose is checked for contamination and kinks.
Video (click to play).
After the hose, check the cleanliness of the drain filter. It catches threads, rags, buttons, which can cause blockages. It must be removed and rinsed. Also, it will not be superfluous to clean the drain using a flexible cable or curved wire.
If the filter is clean, there is no blockage inside the hose, and the machine still does not drain water, the drain connection and pump should be checked. To do this, it is necessary to partially disassemble the machine.
The device is disconnected from the network, water supply and sewerage.
The detergent drawer is removed.
The machine is placed on its side.
The bolts holding the bottom are unscrewed.
Having gained access to the pump contacts, the resistance of the windings is measured with a multimeter. If the device shows an open circuit, a replacement is required. The old pump is removed, the drain pipe is cleaned of dirt and scale. Replacing the pump, the machine is assembled, connected to communications, and the drain is checked.
If the operation of any program stops when you try to heat the water, and the display shows an error message from the heating system, one of the most likely causes is an inoperative heating element. In principle, it is impossible to repair a burned-out heater, the only possible way out is to replace it. In Whirlpool washing machines, the heating element changes quite simply, this procedure can be done by hand.
The machine is disconnected from the mains and water supply.
The device pivots or moves away from the wall for ease of use.
The back cover is unscrewed with a screwdriver.
The bracket is removed, blocking access to the heater.
Behind the bracket are the terminals of the heating element, the contact pad. To check the heater, it is not necessary to remove it, it is enough to disconnect the wires going to it.
To test the heater's performance, use a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. A non-working heating element will show infinite resistance, a working one - several tens of Ohms, depending on the model.
The burnt out heating element must be replaced. Perhaps the only difficulty that may arise during its replacement is rust. The screw fixing the heater can rust so much that you cannot do without the use of special tools, for example, WD-40.
The old heater is removed, a new one is installed in its place, together with it it is worth replacing the rubber gasket, otherwise leaks are possible due to aging of the rubber.
This is another common problem that can be easily dealt with on your own. It manifests itself in the fact that during washing, water seeps through the cuff, the seal of the loading door of the machine. The reason for this phenomenon is the loss of elasticity of the cuff or its incorrect installation during the repair process.
Replacing the cuff is easy, you just need to follow a series of simple steps.
Open the hatch all the way.
Pry off with a screwdriver and remove the plastic holder
Unscrew the fixing bolt, thereby freeing the collar.
Pull the cuff towards you.
Carefully insert a new one. In this case, it is not recommended to use sharp objects in order not to damage the thin rubber.
Put on the clamp, tighten the bolt.
The cuff is a simple detail, but the safety of washing depends on its quality. The right choice is an original part, made in Italy or Slovakia. Buying a cheap fake, you will be able to save a little, but it is quite possible that you will soon have to disassemble the car again.
The list of faults that you can deal with yourself is not limited to those described above. Knowledge of the machine and the ability to understand its messages will solve most of the possible problems.
In any case, before starting repairs to Whirlpool washing machines, it is necessary to identify the malfunction and find its cause. The manufacturer took care of the ease of repair; for this, an automatic testing system is included in the firmware, the result of which, in the form of an error message, is displayed on the indicator.
The first thing to check when such errors occur is the presence of water in the water supply and its pressure. If the pressure in the system does not correspond to the nominal value, the wash will have to be postponed until the water supply is normalized.
It is worth paying attention to the condition of the inlet valve. A mesh is installed in it, which plays the role of a filter; if necessary, it should be washed or replaced.
If water enters the machine normally, but an error still occurs, the reason may lie in the sensor that controls the water level. It is worth checking the sensor itself, its connection, and possibly the control module.
This error can occur if the inlet valve is blocked. It must be checked and, if necessary, replaced. The same error can appear in the event of a water leak. It is worth carefully examining the installation site of the machine. If a puddle appears, the wash will have to be rescheduled until the malfunction is corrected.
If the machine refuses to drain the water, the entire drain path must be checked. The reason may be clogging of the filter, drain hose, its excessive kink. A breakdown or clogging of the drain pump leads to such errors. In rare cases, the cause may be a malfunction of the controller.
VIDEO The machine does not heat the water or its temperature parameters do not correspond to the values set in the program. The reasons for this problem may lie in the heating element or temperature sensor.In any case, for repair, you will have to disassemble the device, test the heating element with an ohmmeter, and replace it if necessary. The same with regards to the sensor.
A tachogenerator is a small device that is installed on the engine to control its speed. The most common cause of this error is a flying spring washer or a break in the conductors going to the device.
The source of the malfunction is the controller board. For repair, it is necessary to remove it and replace the parts that are out of order.
The heater of a washing machine is one of the most vulnerable parts of it. Contacting with water of not the best quality, it becomes covered with scale, it noticeably reduces its characteristics. This error can mean:
burned out or broken heater;
the pressure switch does not work;
faulty controller;
damaged or burnt temperature sensor.
To eliminate faults, it is necessary to disassemble the machine, check and, if necessary, replace the heating element or the faulty sensor.
The appearance of any of these errors signals the failure of the electric motor or wiring diagram. To eliminate them, it is necessary to check the temperature relay and control triacs on the board. Burnt parts will have to be replaced.
Errors F27 and F28 indicate the impossibility of rotating the motor in the opposite direction and too slow rotation, respectively. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, replace the reverse relay and switching of the windings.
Motor winding problems are more difficult to diagnose. Burnout of one or several windings, breakage in them, lack of contact, insulation damage is possible. In most cases, the engine will have to be replaced, with the exception of worn collector brushes.
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Most often, the source of these errors is the mismatch of the parameters of the electrical network with the required values. It is necessary to check the voltage in the outlet, and also take measures to normalize it. It will not be superfluous to use a stabilizer to connect the machine.
Errors appear in the event of various failures in the controller's work. To rectify the situation, it may be necessary to re-flash the module, and possibly its complete replacement.
Also, the cause of errors can be hidden in faulty wiring, breakage of one or more wires going from the control module to the actuators and sensors. In this case, it is necessary to "ring" each conductor, if necessary, replace the damaged one.
The sensor detects an excessive amount of foam, which can cause damage to the machine. It is necessary to replace the detergent and repeat the wash.
The first of these errors appears in case of impossibility of the normal execution of the program due to a malfunction of the control unit, the second due to the impossibility of transmitting a command from the module to the executive devices. To eliminate them, it is necessary to disassemble the machine, check the integrity of the wiring and components of the controller board.
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The reason is that the pressure switch, the sensor that controls the water level, does not work. Replacement required.
This error signals that an attempt to update via the Internet has ended in failure. You may need to check your router settings or contact your ISP.
The appearance of these errors signals that the hatch is not closed tightly or the corresponding sensor does not work. It is worth trying to open the hatch and close it again, if the error persists, replace the sensor.
Most Whirlpool washing machine breakdowns can be dealt with at home. For this, a small set of standard tools is enough, the ability to use it and, of course, desire. Of course, you should not try to repair a car whose warranty period has not yet expired, and you should not undertake repairs without experience in working with electrical equipment. It is important to soberly assess your strength and, in case of the slightest doubt, contact the repair shop.
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For safety reasons, washing machines use an electronic lock that locks the door during washing.Thus, it cannot be opened until the wash and rinse is complete. After completion of the wash cycle and the corresponding sound signal, the door opens automatically. If the lock breaks, the washing process becomes impossible.
To carry out diagnostics and repairs, we recommend contacting qualified specialists at the "RemonTechnik" service center.
The three most common problems with a sunroof lock are possible:
After completing the wash cycle, the lock does not open. In this case, to open the door, you will have to disassemble the washing machine;
The door does not lock even after a characteristic click, as a result, washing does not start. Thus, the control panel does not receive an informative signal to close the hatch;
It is most dangerous when the door is not locked and the washing process begins, as water may spill out. Also, the main components of the washing machine are damaged as a result of depressurization.
After a visual inspection, you can determine the malfunction of the blocker, but first it must be removed.
In front-loading washing machines, the lock is located to the right of the door. Dismantling the lock includes the following steps:
Drain the water and disconnect the unit from the network;
Remove the steel wire ring that presses the rubber gasket placed between the hatch and the drum to the machine body;
Move aside the rubber cuff in the area of the blocker so that you can get to it;
Unscrew the fastening bolts on the front panel (hold the lock with your hand so that it does not fall through);
Pull out the terminal that provides power to the lock.
The process of installing the lock is carried out in the reverse order.
The body of the lock is made of plastic; there is a large hole at the end of the lock, which is intended for the hatch hook. The blocker housing contains:
A plate (usually made of metal) designed to engage the hook;
Pin and contacts transmitting a signal to the control module;
Thermistor;
Bimetallic plate, bends when heated.
When the door is closed, the hatch hook, falling into the holes of the lock, mechanically acts on the metal plate, setting it in a certain position. After the receipt of a special signal from the control panel to the lock thermistor, the bimetallic plate is deformed, which presses on the pin.
The pin enters the hole of the plate, blocking its movement. At the same time, the contacts are closed, which send a signal to close the hatch to the control module. The loading door can be opened only after the current supply to the thermistor has been cut off and the bimetallic plate has cooled down. Therefore, you cannot open it immediately after the end of the wash, but you must wait for a while.
After disassembling the lock of the washing machine, usually, you can visually easily determine the cause of the breakdown. If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, you need to check the following:
Resistance thermistor. When cooled, it is equal to 900 ohms.
Contact voltage after closing the door;
It is necessary to simulate the door closing procedure by applying voltage to the thermistor, to trace the operation of the bimetallic plate;
Check if the pin fits into the hole.
To diagnose the operation of the loading door lock, a multimeter is required.
If you doubt your own abilities, please contact our service center, our masters will quickly fix the problem and your machine will be back in service.
The video will help you clearly understand the process of repairing and replacing the lock:
VIDEO
Any complex technique, especially household one, can potentially break anything. If you list all, without exception, possible breakdowns of modern automatic Whirlpool washing machines and describe their elimination, you can write a book about this. Therefore, within the framework of the article, we will only talk about typical defects, which, according to statistics provided by service centers, are most common.
The water does not leave the machine after washing.
Washing programs are buggy, do not work as they should, or do not activate at all.
The water drawn for washing does not heat up according to the set program.
Water leaks during washing from under the closed manhole cover.
Note! In these typical signs of breakdowns, serious malfunctions are encrypted, the elimination of which is of paramount importance, since otherwise the Whirlpool washing machine may break down completely.
Probably, this happened to you too, put the laundry in the drum, put on your favorite washing program and go to another room to do your household chores. After a while, come back, the machine is frozen, there is a full tank of soapy water in it, and of course the washing is not completed. You restart the machine, history repeats itself, the wash cannot be completed, since the water does not leave the tank. What to do in such a situation, and what is the cause of the problem? There are three main reasons:
there is a blockage in the drain pipe or drain filter;
there is a blockage in the drain hose or sewer;
the electric drain pump has broken.
But before you start to find out the reason for the breakdown of your Whirlpool car, you need to prepare it with your own hands, namely, turn off and drain the water from the tank manually. Quickly and safely remove all water from the tank through the emergency drain hose located next to the drain filter. It is necessary to substitute a basin or other container under the hose and open the stopper and all the water will flow out by itself. Next, let's start looking for a breakdown, moving from simple to complex.
We put a container or rag under the hole of the drain filter and unscrew the plug. We clean the filter from dirt and put the plug in place.
Carefully unscrew the drain hose and clean it from dirt, then screw it into place.
We check if the sewer is not clogged.
The above steps do not imply disassembly of the Whirlpool washing machine, therefore, after carrying out a "general" cleaning, try to start the machine again. If nothing has changed and the machine still refuses to drain the water, then you will have to climb into its body.
Important! In almost all models of Whirlpool washing machines, in order to get to the drain pipe and the pump, you just need to turn the machine on its side and remove the bottom.
To get to the details of interest to us, we will perform the following steps:
take out the powder tray;
we disconnect the machine from the water supply, sewerage and electrical network;
we put the machine on its side;
unscrew the fasteners and remove the bottom;
we take a multimeter and measure the resistance at the pump contacts;
we change the drain pump to a new one, if the problem is not in it, then proceed to the next stage;
we loosen the clamps of the drain pipe and remove it;
we clean from blockages and put in place.
It so happens that after turning on the washing machine, its control panel seems to go crazy. The display starts flashing, and it is echoed by all the lights and indicators of the toggle switch. In this case, the washing program may not be set. If you are faced with something like this, unplug the machine immediately and wait about 1 minute. Then turn on the Whirlpool washing machine again and if the problem persists, call the wizard. Here it is a matter of the control board, and it is extremely difficult to repair it with your own hands, it is better not even to waste time and effort.
But if your machine refuses to wash in warm water, then you can not only independently determine the malfunction, but also fix it yourself, without the help of a specialist. Most likely the reason lies in the heating element or thermistor, in any case, you will have to check both elements at once.We act as follows.
We turn the washing machine with the back wall towards us, so that it is convenient.
We unscrew the bolts and remove the back wall of the machine.
We unscrew the bracket, which will interfere with working with the heating element.
At the bottom of the tank, we will see two protruding contacts - these are ten. Four wires fit to it, two in the middle to the thermistor and two along the edges to the heating element, you need to disconnect them all.
We take a multimeter and measure the resistance of the thermistor contacts.
If everything is in order, we measure the resistance on the heating element.
In this case, you will most likely find a malfunction and you will have to replace the heating element. Usually, when removing the heating element from the tank, the cause of the breakdown becomes immediately clear, since the surface of the heating element is completely covered with scale. If there is a little scale, then the teng will not burn out from it, it is another matter if the layer of water stone is more than a centimeter - this leads to a breakdown of the element of the Whirlpool washing machine. We will replace the heating element with our own hands.
We have already removed the contacts with the wires, now we will unscrew the plastic shield.
Next, unscrew the bolt that is located between the large contacts of the heating element.
We grasp the contacts of the heating element with our hands and pull it towards ourselves, if the heating element does not go, try to gently shake it. The rubber pad will get in the way a little, but it can't be helpedHaving pulled out the heating element, we also remove the gasket.
Note! Experts recommend not to install a new heating element on an old rubber gasket, it is better to change it together with the heating element, since a leak for this element is the worst thing.
We take out dirt and pieces of scale from the hole formed, thoroughly clean the edges, and then insert a new gasket.
We insert a new ten and screw it on.
We fasten the plastic shield.
We connect the contacts with wires to the thermistor.
We connect the contacts with wires to the heating element, put the bracket and the back wall in place.
If, during washing and rinsing, water leaks from under the hatch of your Whirlpool washing machine, first a little, a few drops, then more and more, then you need to carefully inspect the largest rubber gasket in the machine - the cuff. It is impossible not to notice the cuff, since it encircles the opening of the hatch and serves to keep water out of the tank.
A torn cuff cannot be used, since it will not hold water, you will have to change it. First, we properly dismantle the old cuff.
We open the hatch cover as wide as possible.
We take a flathead screwdriver and try to pry off the thin wire clamp that is located on the outside of the cuff and holds it.
As soon as we manage to pry it off, we bring a screwdriver harder under it and begin to move in a circle until we find a connecting element with a bolt.
We loosen the clamp and remove it to the side.
We grasp the cuff with both hands and pull it out with effort.
Be sure to purchase only the original cuff for replacement, which clearly fits into the groove of the hatch of this model of the Whirlpool washing machine, otherwise problems may arise.
In this case, you need to do everything carefully and naturally, do not use any sharp tools like a screwdriver. As soon as we manage to put the cuff in place, we put a clamp on it, tighten it. We check that the hatch closes normally, and we start a test wash.
Summing up, we note that European-assembled Whirlpool washing machines are relatively reliable and do not have many typical breakdowns.Most often, problems arise due to the fact that the user himself does not take good care of his "home assistant" does not clean the hoses and filters on time, does not wipe the cuff, and all this ultimately results in a malfunction. Take care of your washing machine, and it will not have to be repaired often!
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Whirlpool washing machines have a lower probability of failure than many others, but they still exist.
But not every malfunction is so serious that a master had to be called.
In many cases, the owner of the unit is quite capable of repairing it on his own, sometimes saving a very tangible amount of money. Only first you need to familiarize yourself with this article, the topic of which is the Whirlpool washing machine: DIY repair.
In the case of the Whirlpool washing machine, this task is extremely simplified, because it itself can check the condition of its components and display the "diagnosis" on the display in the form of a code of letters and numbers.
Some of the messages indicate that the device urgently needs expert help.
For example, error "F14" (failure in the control system), "F15" (motor failure) or "F20" (controller failure to execute commands). Others, such as error "F03" (no drain), mean a less serious malfunction that the user can fix himself.
Before repairing, in addition to the usual tools (keys, screwdrivers, etc.) and a multimeter, you should prepare a digital camera or telephone with a camera of a sufficiently high resolution.
We will shoot not only "selfies", but also the wires connected to a particular node before each stage of disassembly. Peeping at the photographs taken, it will be possible to connect the wires without errors during the assembly of the unit.
Read about the repair of Kandy washing machines here.
Washing machines break down from time to time. Minor breakdowns and Zanussi cars do not bypass. In the following thread https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/zanussi-stiralnaya-mashina-remont-svoimi-rukami.html you will learn how to eliminate minor malfunctions of devices of the mentioned brand.
The following failures are most likely:
An attempt to drain the water did not give the desired result. As mentioned above, in this case, the error code "F03" (on some models - "FP") is displayed on the screen.
The washing program cannot be activated or is not being followed. This phenomenon may be accompanied by the display of the code "F14", "F16", "F20" or other, related to the operation of the controller.
The water temperature does not match the one provided for the wash program. Corresponding error codes: "F04" (slow heating or its absence), "F05" (temperature sensor does not work), "F08" (heater breakdown), "F12" (no water heating in the tank).
Water seeps out through the closed door.
Let's take a look at what to do when one of these problems occurs.
The reason that the machine cannot pump out the water is most often the dirt accumulated in the drain filter. Perform the following operations:
With a large enough container under the machine, unscrew the emergency drain plug (located in the same place as the drain filter) to remove water from the machine.
Unscrew the drain filter (you also need to substitute a container under it), remove all dirt from it.
Use a screwdriver to remove dirt from the pipe to which the filter is attached.
After starting the machine in drain mode, check if the impeller of the drain pump rotates (it can be seen in the hole from the filter plug). If the pump does not work, it must be replaced. To get to this unit, you need to lay the machine on its side and remove the pallet from it.
If cleaning the filter did not give results, and the pump turned out to be in good order, you need to check the level sensor tube for blockages.If it turns out to be clean, you can blow into it to check the performance of the sensor - it should respond with a click to the pressure drop. A non-working sensor must be replaced.
It will not hurt to rinse the filler filter at the same time. It, too, is gradually clogged with rust and sand, which prevent the flow of water (error code - "F13": water is drawn into the tank slowly).
Inadequate behavior of the control panel, accompanied by blinking of indicators and the display, or incorrect execution of a given program, is usually associated with irregularities in the operation of the electronics. All the owner can do in such a situation is to turn off the device for one minute and then resume the startup attempt. If the picture has not changed, you need to contact the service center: you may need to flash the microcircuit.
Whirlpool AWT2295 washing machine - crack in the tank
With insufficient heating of water, as well as its complete absence, first of all, a tubular electric heater - heating element - falls under suspicion. Perhaps its resource has been exhausted, or maybe it burned out prematurely - due to a thick layer of scale deposited on it. You will also have to check the temperature sensor (thermistor). Armed with a wrench, screwdriver and multimeter, do the following:
If water begins to seep through the door of the car, then it is time to change the sealing gasket (cuff).
Open the door fully.
Next, you need to take a fairly thin screwdriver and carefully drive it under the wire clamp that secures the cuff along its outer side.
Prying the clamp, you need to gradually remove it by moving the screwdriver to the left or right. These steps must be continued until the connection point with the small bolt is found.
Unscrew the bolt a little, after which the clamp can be removed.
Remove the worn cuff and very carefully, without using sharp instruments, install a new one in its place. This must be an original part designed specifically for this modification of the washing machine. If you install a gasket from another "washing machine", the door will not be hermetically closed.
To make the seal last longer, wipe off any remaining dirty water after washing, especially at the bottom. The substances present in it lead to the loss of elasticity of the rubber and the appearance of cracks on it.
We will tell you about the features of repairing Bosch washing machines in this article.
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Today, in almost every apartment building, you can find a Whirlpool brand washing machine, and more than one. We have both assemblies widespread: Slovakia and Italy. The latter are bought less often and are more expensive, but cars assembled in Slovakia can be found in all household appliances stores.
Perhaps it was the European assembly standards that helped the Whirlpool machines to establish themselves as machines of high quality and enviable durability. That is why repairs are rarely required, but if breakdowns do occur, then often the repair of Whirlpool washing machines (Whirlpool) can be done by hand.
If we list thoroughly all the possible breakdowns of the MCA, we will have to write a whole guide in 10 volumes. Therefore, we will focus only on the malfunctions typical of this brand.
We used data from reputable service centers to create valuable instructions for those looking to do DIY repairs on the Whirpool washing machine.
There is water in the tub after washing.
Washing modes freeze, do not start at all, or programs are malfunctioning.
All washing modes are carried out in cold water.
SMA flows in the area of the hatch.
Important! Behind these seemingly harmless malfunctions, serious breakdowns can be hidden. They need to be eliminated immediately so as not to break the CM completely.
Based on the problems described above, the most vulnerable spots of the Whirlpool washing machines can be identified. In many modern models, a self-diagnosis system is provided, which, using a fault code, will inform you about which part is out of order.
But what if the machine does not turn on at all, and there is nothing that would help you find out the cause of the breakdown? Listen to the advice of experienced repairmen, they are sure that the most vulnerable parts in the Whirlpool machine are:
Thermoelectric heater - heating element.
The engine and its moving parts.
Manhole cuff, branch pipes.
Controller (control module).
Attention! Whirlpool machines, like any other machine, "suffer" from blockages. Both filters and hoses are clogged. If cleaning is carried out in a timely manner (3-4 times a year), then it is possible to avoid breakdowns of the water drain and filling system.
Probably, you are familiar with the situation when you loaded the laundry into the tank, chose a convenient washing mode, went about your business to the kitchen, then came to get the laundry, and there was a disaster. The car is buggy: it is full of water and foam, the wash is not over, the laundry is wet.
You restart the program, but everything is in a circle - the wash program is not carried out because water remains in the drum. This problem is caused by one of three factors:
Debris has accumulated in the water drain pipe or drain filter.
Blockage in the drain hose or blockage in the drainage system.
Breakdown of the drain electric pump (pump).
However, before you devote time to finding the causes of the failure, prepare your SMA for this:
Disconnect the power supply.
Drain the water remaining in the drum by hand. This can be done quickly using the emergency drain hose - it is usually located near the water drain filter.
Place a container or a rag on the floor and waste water will flow out.
Next, we remove the waste water filter:
Place a rag or place a container under the hatch behind which the filter is located.
Unscrew the plug counterclockwise.
Clean and flush the unit under the tap.
Put everything in place.
Twist the drain hose, clean and rinse it, reinstall it.
It does not hurt to check the drainage system for blockages.
To carry out all the steps, you do not need to know how to disassemble the Whirlpool washing machine - this is an easy job that any user can do.
If your actions did not help get rid of the problem, the drain system is clean, there is no blockage in the sewer, and the washer still does not drain the water from the tank, it will still have to be disassembled. The true cause of the breakdown may be hidden in the pump and drain pipe.
Important! Almost all Whirlpool models are designed in such a way that the pump and the pipe can only be reached from the bottom. We'll have to turn the car on its side.
How to find, check and clean the pump and the pipe:
Remove the detergent drawer.
Disconnect the machine from all systems: electricity, water supply, sewerage.
Turn the SMA over, placing it on the side wall.
Unscrew the screws and remove the bottom.
Equip yourself with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.
If you find a problem, change your pump.
If the pump has nothing to do with it, then proceed.
Loosen the clamps on the water drain pipe.
Remove the nipple.
Clean and rinse it.
Reinstall the nipple.
This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of load. The device of the Whirlpool top-loading washing machine is somewhat different than that of conventional CM, but the problem with it must be solved in the same way.
Often, after starting the washing machine, the control panel begins to behave inadequately: the display blinks, and with it all the LEDs flash. Also, the program you selected may not work.
If this is your case, then immediately turn off the CM, and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem is not resolved, it is worth calling the wizard, since the control module is damaged, and it is almost impossible to fix it yourself. You will need not only a diagram of the control module of the Whirlpool washing machine, but also experience in such a repair.
If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash the laundry well, then it is possible, without the help of special devices, to determine the breakdown and carry out an independent repair.
The most likely reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor), but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements together. Then proceed according to this simple scheme:
Turn the machine so that the front wall is in front of you - this will make it easier to work.
Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear panel.
Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with working with the heater.
You will not see the entire heating element right away - only its shank is visible under the tank, to which four wires go, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the temperature sensor.
Remove all wires.
Take a tester and measure the resistance of the temperature sensor contacts. Check the readings at room temperature, and then - heating the sensor in warm water, they should differ significantly if the sensor is working properly.
Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal readings are 20-40 ohms.
With such a problem, the breakdown is likely to be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.
Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly identify the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots have gone along it. If there is very little scale, then the heating element may not have burned out, and if the water stone is 1 cm thick or more, the breakage is obvious.
With your own hands, you can easily change the heating element as follows:
The contacts and wires have already been removed, so then remove the plastic shield.
Unscrew the mount - it is in the center of the shank.
Gently pulling on the contacts, loosening the heater in different directions, remove the heating element. The rubber pad will interfere, so be patient - there is nothing you can do about it.
Having taken out the heating element, remove the gasket.
Important! Mechanics recommend installing a new gasket together with a new heater, since leaks due to wear of the gasket are detrimental to this important unit.
In the hole where the heating element was, there is probably debris and scale, so carry out a general cleaning; only then can the gasket be installed.
Install a new heating element, tighten the mount.
Replace the plastic shield.
Connect contacts to heater and sensor.
Reposition the bracket, and finally refit the car panel.
When, in the washing or rinsing mode, water flows from under the door of the Whirlpool automatic washing machine, it starts imperceptibly - first a couple of drops, then a thin trickle, and sooner or later the deluge begins altogether.
You do not need a diagram of the Whirlpool washing machine to find the cuff that is responsible for the breakdown. It is visible to the naked eye as well - it is a large rubber pad in your CM. It is located along the entire inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is to keep water out.
The most vulnerable point of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often remains there. If not tidied up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn seal to break it - then the leak cannot be avoided.
Important! Do not use a machine with a torn cuff - it will not be able to hold water. If a break is found, the cuff needs to be replaced URGENTLY.
If you are used to making repairs at home, then dismantle the old one and mount a new cuff.
Open the manhole cover as wide as possible.
Arm yourself with a slotted screwdriver and hook up the wire clamp - it is located over the collar.
After prying the collar, slide the screwdriver deeper under it and move it in a circle until you come across a connector with fasteners.
Loosen the clamp and remove it.
Take the seal with both hands and pull it out towards you.
For the information of users: buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the hatch groove clearly to the millimeter and protect the tank from leaks.
Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.
Important! Do not use anything sharp so as not to break the seal - do everything ONLY with your hands.
Once the elastic is in place, quickly slide on the collar and tighten.
Check if the hatch closes and opens normally.
Start washing in test mode.
If it's dry under the typewriter, congratulations, you did it "perfectly"!
If water flows in a vertical type machine, then the reason may not be in the hatch at all - it is on top of it. You will most likely need to disassemble your Whirlpool top-loading washing machine to determine the cause of the leak.
There are a number of other reasons why the washing machine may leak:
The pump is flowing.
Depressurization of the tank - crack, hole, corrosion.
The drain or water intake pipes are damaged.
Depressurization of the water inlet branch pipe connection.
Depressurization of the connections between the inlet valve and the powder cuvette.
Oil seal wear.
Blockage in the metering hopper.
Tank drain tube worn.
Most of these breakdowns are simple and you can repair the leak yourself. The most important thing in this case is to correctly diagnose the problem. The trouble codes will help you with this.
The following error codes may light up on the display: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.
If you still have questions about repairing breakdowns of Whirpool brand washing machines, read our other materials, in which we analyze in detail each individual malfunction.
In this article, we have considered only typical breakdowns that can be fixed without the help of a repairman. And if you are wondering how to change the bearing on the Whirlpool washing machine, watch an additional special video:
Video (click to play).
VIDEO 
