Top-loading washing machines whirlpool diy repair

In detail: washing machines with vertical loading whirlpool do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

People buy washing machines with top loading much less often than with front loading - this is a fact.

The tightness of the parts of the machine makes it difficult to disassemble
Increased vibration during spinning
On some machines it is not possible to level the rear feet
Corrosion of the top cover from moisture
Spontaneous opening of the drum flaps in case of imbalance

Narrow and deep, and fits perfectly into confined spaces in the bathtub, closets or kitchen
No need to bend over to load the laundry
Ability to interrupt the program and add laundry
Child safety. Control panel location.

Features and nuances for self-repair of vertical units:

The device contains the same elements (pressure switch, water intake valve, drum, tank, control board, pump, and so on).
The axis of the drum is structurally made on two bearings; a self-positioning sensor is sometimes located on the tank (fixing the drum with the flaps up).

We will show the dismantling of units using the example of Electrolux:

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1.From the sides, using a screwdriver, release the control panel
2.Pull the plastic panel up and slide towards you
3. We tilt at a small angle towards ourselves to dismantle the wires from the board connectors
4. Take out the panel

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To remove the electronic control module, disconnect the remaining wires and unscrew the screws shown in the figure.
For quick and correct assembly, take pictures of the connection points of the wire loops.

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To remove the water inlet valve, disconnect the rubber hoses from the clamps and dismantle them.
Detach the wires and from the outside press on the holes to push out the valve.

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To remove the side panels, unscrew a few screws, do not forget to save the washers for grounding the case.
Bend the wall from below with your hand and slide it down.

After removing the two side panels, access to the screws for dismantling the front panel appeared.

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To remove the NTC sensors and self-positioning the DSP drum, it is enough to remove the right wall and dismantle them.

Frequent malfunction - there is no way to change the program .:

Example - Hotpoint Ariston ARTL 1047.

Many "craftsmen" sin that the control module is to blame for everything. But no!

It is enough to unscrew the two screws from the back and remove the control panel.

This very cracked handle is the culprit. Use the metal ring (the plug from the antenna for example).

By squeezing the plastic handle, the ring will prevent programs from skipping.

Blown up top of the Indesite vertical, Ariston:

Video (click to play).

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001 - control knob 002 - white on-off / reset buttons 003 - white control panel 004 - bitron switch 005 - function keys 007 - display
008 - cover handle 010 - dispenser unlocking lever 011 - dispenser hook spring 012 - disengagement button dispenser 016 - cover support
018 - partition with shock absorber 021 - door interlock device 022 - white dispenser 023 - siphon cover 026 - control panel wiring 027 - 8-pos. potentiometer

There is an opinion that two drum supports instead of one are good.

This is not the case, and in the case of "vertical" it is just a forced engineering decision. The service life of the drum bearings does not increase for a minute.

If the screws are hard to loosen, heat them up with a blowtorch.

Use a special grease for oil seals - Litol-24, TsIATIM-221, SHRUS-4M, etc.

On "Kandy", in order to change bearings, you need to disassemble the whole machine to the screw! And what is the wild tightness in the depths of the "vertical". Sometimes you have to do everything literally by touch.

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Whirlpool washing machines are in high demand in the market. The devices of this manufacturer are of high quality and reliability, while they can boast of a completely democratic price tag. There are machines made in Slovakia and Italy on sale. Italian assembly is noticeably more expensive, but it is hardly worth overpaying, cars from Slovakia also have excellent consumer characteristics.

On average, one out of fifteen cars of this manufacturer is sent for repairs during the service life, which is a completely acceptable result. Certified service centers can be found in almost any major city in the country, so there will definitely not be any problems with repair and maintenance. Repair of Whirlpool washing machines can be entrusted to the specialists of the center, and if you have experience of such work, you can do it yourself.

An automatic washing machine is a complex device, it consists of many components and assemblies, each of which can fail. The list of possible malfunctions of Whirlpool washing machines is very extensive; a complete repair manual will be in several volumes. The most common problems are the following: not working drain, heating problems, wear or breakage of the cuff.

Perhaps the most common problem Whirlpool washing machine owners face. The machine stops and instead of emptying the water, displays an error message. There may be several reasons for the inoperative drain:

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Before starting the repair of the Whirlpool washing machine with problems with the drainage system, it is necessary to remove the water from the drum. The manufacturer has provided an emergency drain especially for such situations. It is easy to remove the water, for this you just need to remove the cork, having previously not forgotten to substitute the water container.

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After the water is removed, you can proceed directly to the repair. The machine is retractable for ease of use. Check the hose for contamination and kinks.

After the hose, check the cleanliness of the drain filter. It catches threads, rags, buttons, which can cause blockages. It must be removed and rinsed. Also, it will not be superfluous to clean the drain using a flexible cable or curved wire.

If the filter is clean, there is no blockage inside the hose, and the machine still does not drain water, the drain connection and pump should be checked. To do this, it is necessary to partially disassemble the machine.

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The device is disconnected from the network, water supply and sewerage.
The detergent drawer is removed.
The machine is placed on its side.
The bolts holding the bottom are unscrewed.

Having gained access to the pump contacts, the resistance of the windings is measured with a multimeter. If the device shows an open circuit, a replacement is required. The old pump is removed, the drain pipe is cleaned of dirt and scale. Replacing the pump, the machine is assembled, connected to communications, and the drain is checked.

If the operation of any program stops when you try to heat the water, and the display shows an error message from the heating system, one of the most likely causes is an inoperative heating element. In principle, it is impossible to repair a burned-out heater, the only possible way out is to replace it. In Whirlpool washing machines, the heating element changes quite simply, this procedure can be done by hand.

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The machine is disconnected from the mains and water supply.
The device pivots or moves away from the wall for ease of use.
The back cover is unscrewed with a screwdriver.
The bracket is removed, blocking access to the heater.

Behind the bracket are the terminals of the heating element, the contact pad. To check the heater, it is not necessary to remove it, it is enough to disconnect the wires going to it.

To test the heater's performance, use a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. A non-working heating element will show infinite resistance, a working one - several tens of Ohms, depending on the model.

The burnt out heating element must be replaced. Perhaps the only difficulty that may arise during its replacement is rust. The screw fixing the heater can rust so much that you cannot do without the use of special tools, for example, WD-40.

The old heater is removed, a new one is installed in its place, together with it it is worth replacing the rubber gasket, otherwise leaks are possible due to aging of the rubber.

This is another common problem that can be easily dealt with on your own. It manifests itself in the fact that during washing, water seeps through the cuff, the seal of the loading door of the machine. The reason for this phenomenon is the loss of elasticity of the cuff or its incorrect installation during the repair process.

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Replacing the cuff is easy, you just need to follow a series of simple steps.

Open the hatch all the way.
Pry off with a screwdriver and remove the plastic holder
Unscrew the fixing bolt, thereby freeing the collar.
Pull the cuff towards you.
Carefully insert a new one. In this case, it is not recommended to use sharp objects in order not to damage the thin rubber.
Put on the clamp, tighten the bolt.

The cuff is a simple detail, but the safety of washing depends on its quality. The right choice is an original part, made in Italy or Slovakia. Buying a cheap fake, you will be able to save a little, but it is quite possible that you will soon have to disassemble the car again.

The list of faults that you can deal with yourself is not limited to those described above. Knowledge of the machine and the ability to understand its messages will solve most of the possible problems.

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In any case, before starting repairs to Whirlpool washing machines, it is necessary to identify the malfunction and find its cause. The manufacturer took care of the ease of repair; for this, an automatic testing system is included in the firmware, the result of which, in the form of an error message, is displayed on the indicator.

The first thing to check when such errors occur is the presence of water in the water supply and its pressure. If the pressure in the system does not correspond to the nominal value, the wash will have to be postponed until the water supply is normalized.

It is worth paying attention to the condition of the inlet valve. A mesh is installed in it, which plays the role of a filter; if necessary, it should be washed or replaced.

If water enters the machine normally, but an error still occurs, the reason may lie in the sensor that controls the water level. It is worth checking the sensor itself, its connection, and possibly the control module.

This error can occur if the inlet valve is blocked. It must be checked and, if necessary, replaced. The same error can appear in the event of a water leak. It is worth carefully examining the installation site of the machine. If a puddle appears, the wash will have to be rescheduled until the malfunction is corrected.

If the machine refuses to drain the water, the entire drain path must be checked. The reason may be clogging of the filter, drain hose, its excessive kink. A breakdown or clogging of the drain pump leads to such errors. In rare cases, the cause may be a malfunction of the controller.

The machine does not heat the water or its temperature parameters do not correspond to the values set in the program. The reasons for this problem may lie in the heating element or temperature sensor. In any case, for repair, you will have to disassemble the device, test the heating element with an ohmmeter, and replace it if necessary. The same with regards to the sensor.

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A tachogenerator is a small device that is installed on the engine to control its speed.The most common cause of this error is a flying spring washer or a break in the conductors going to the device.

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The source of the malfunction is the controller board. For repair, it is necessary to remove it and replace the parts that are out of order.

The heater of a washing machine is one of the most vulnerable parts of it. Contacting with water of not the best quality, it becomes covered with scale, it noticeably reduces its characteristics. This error can mean:

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burned out or broken heater;
the pressure switch does not work;
faulty controller;
damaged or burnt temperature sensor.

To eliminate faults, it is necessary to disassemble the machine, check and, if necessary, replace the heating element or the faulty sensor.

The appearance of any of these errors signals the failure of the electric motor or wiring diagram. To eliminate them, it is necessary to check the temperature relay and control triacs on the board. Burnt parts will have to be replaced.

Errors F27 and F28 indicate the impossibility of rotating the motor in the opposite direction and too slow rotation, respectively. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, replace the reverse relay and switching of the windings.

Motor winding problems are more difficult to diagnose. Burnout of one or several windings, breakage in them, lack of contact, insulation damage is possible. In most cases, the engine will have to be replaced, with the exception of worn collector brushes.

Most often, the source of these errors is the mismatch of the parameters of the electrical network with the required values. It is necessary to check the voltage in the outlet, and also take measures to normalize it. It will not be superfluous to use a stabilizer to connect the machine.Errors appear in the event of various failures in the controller's work. To rectify the situation, it may be necessary to re-flash the module, and possibly its complete replacement.Also, the cause of errors can be hidden in faulty wiring, a break in one or more wires going from the control module to the actuators and sensors. In this case, it is necessary to "ring" each conductor, if necessary, replace the damaged one.The sensor detects an excessive amount of foam, which can cause damage to the machine. It is necessary to replace the detergent and repeat the wash. Image - Washing machines with vertical loading whirlpool DIY repair

The first of these errors appears in case of impossibility of the normal execution of the program due to a malfunction of the control unit, the second due to the impossibility of transmitting a command from the module to the actuators. To eliminate them, it is necessary to disassemble the machine, check the integrity of the wiring and components of the controller board.

The reason is that the pressure switch, the sensor that controls the water level, does not work. Replacement required. Image - Washing machines with vertical loading whirlpool DIY repair

This error signals that an attempt to update via the Internet has ended in failure. You may need to check your router settings or contact your ISP.

The appearance of these errors signals that the hatch is not closed tightly or the corresponding sensor does not work. It is worth trying to open the hatch and close it again, if the error persists, replace the sensor.

Most Whirlpool washing machine breakdowns can be dealt with at home. For this, a small set of standard tools is enough, the ability to use it and, of course, desire. Of course, you should not try to repair a car whose warranty period has not yet expired, and you should not undertake repairs without experience in working with electrical equipment. It is important to soberly assess your strength and, in case of the slightest doubt, contact the repair shop.

Equipment does not always break down during the warranty period. Therefore, the user has to independently solve the issues of restoring the operation of the washing machine. Whirlpool washing machines can be repaired by yourself. In the post, we will provide a step-by-step troubleshooting guide.To do this, you need hands and a small set of tools.More and more often, Whirlpool washing machines of Slovak assembly are supplied to our markets, less often - Italian. And although the users of this technique turn to the services 15 times less often than the owners of other brands, breakdowns still happen.Troubleshooting is made easier with built-in system diagnostics. Failure of a unit or part of the CMA is displayed on the screen with an error code (FH, F02, F05, F06, F07, F09, F10, F11, F13, F14, F15, Sud, FdL, FdU). The meaning of the code can be found in the instructions, and then proceed with the repair of the device.What are the most common fault codes:

F02 - water does not leave the tank.

FH / F09 - overflow, problems with the pressure switch.

F06 - problems with the engine or tachometer.

FdL / FdU - problems with blocking the hatch.

But even if the error did not get out on the display, you can determine the breakdown by external signs. In theory, anything can break in the washer. We will only list typical faults that users deal with most often.

Heating element problems... Washing takes place in cold water, the laundry is poorly washed and rinsed.

Engine malfunction... The drum does not spin well or does not spin at all. Things are not push-ups. Perhaps the reason is the wear of the motor brushes.

Leaking from under the hatch... Damaged or worn seal lip, metal corrosion.

Broken electronic board... The machine does not turn on or malfunctions, programs are not activated correctly.

Water does not drain from the tank... The reason is blockages, pump malfunction.

In half of the cases, repairs are carried out independently, at home. How? More on this below.Start by preparing the technique. This also applies to your safety: disconnect the machine from the mains, close the water inlet valve. Now you can figure out the causes of the problem and decide where to start the repair.It is likely that you are faced with such a situation: you loaded the laundry, started the wash, and at the end the machine refused to drain the water. There may be three reasons for this:

Clogged drain or filter.

The hose or drain is clogged.

The pump is out of order.

You can check the system for clogging without disassembling the MCA. Start by unscrewing the filter:

There is a small door under the loading door.

Open it, substitute the container.

Unscrew the filter plug counterclockwise.

Remove debris from the filter mesh. In the opened landing hole, you can inspect the pump impeller. Sometimes it is blocked by hair, threads that wind on its axis. Clean out debris from the impeller.Now check the hose. Direct connection to the sewer often leads to its clogging. It is much better to connect the drain hose to a siphon. It is easier to clean when needed.Sewerage cleaning is carried out with special means or the help of a plumber is needed.If the parts are cleaned, but the drain has not improved, then check the pipe and pump. To do this, lay the washer body on one side.

Take out the powder dispenser.

Place an old blanket or towel on the floor.

Turn the SM body on its side.

Loosen the hose clamp. Remove it from its place, clean it from the blockage. You can rinse the part with warm water.

Check your pump. In the event of a malfunction, a replacement is carried out: disconnect the wiring from the pump contacts, unscrew the fastening bolts.

Your clothes get rid of dirt well thanks to the high temperature and detergent. In cold water, the powder does not dissolve completely, so stains do not come off well. The heating element is responsible for heating in the washing machine. Scale becomes a common cause of its breakdowns. To check or replace an element, do this:

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws on the back.

Remove the bolts around the rear cover. Take it off.

There is a heating element under the tank.

Disconnect the wiring, remove the thermistor from the heater body.

Check the heater for serviceability (for details on the diagnostic process, read "How to check the heating element in the SMA").

If the element is out of order, then twist the central nut and push the bolt inward.

Take out the old heating element, clean its socket from debris and scale.

Install a new heater.

Some suggest installing the old gasket on the new TEN if it is intact. We recommend changing the gasket too to eliminate the risk of leakage and new replacement.Notice the slow spin of the reel? Does the outlet remain wet and not wrung out? It's time to check the condition of the engine brushes and drive belt.In collector motors, the rotor is supplied with current through the brushes. They are installed on the sides of the case. The rods of the elements made of soft material will wear out, causing the operation to stop.

Dismantle the rear wall.

Remove the drive belt. Examine it. When stretched and worn, the part must be replaced.

When replacing the brushes for the first time, it is better to remove the motor from the case.

Disconnect its wiring, remove the bolts.

Disconnect the terminals of the brushes, remove them from the housing.

When worn more than half, replacement is required. Insert new parts into holes, secure wiring.

Spin problems can be related to bearing wear. At the same time, extraneous sounds are heard: creaking, hum.Washers of the "Whirpool" family have an unpleasant feature - rapid corrosion of the body. Some parts of the clipper are made of metals, which corrode quickly and can lead to leakage. Damaged panels need to be replaced, staining will not help them.Leaks can arise from the cuff of the hatch. Rubber is sensitive to long-term accumulation of moisture. If not wiped off in time, the cuff will wear out, crack and leak. Only a complete replacement will help.

Fold back the seal. Pry the clamp with a screwdriver, remove it from the place.

Tuck the rubber into the drum.

To remove the inner clamp, you can remove the front panel or loosen the clamp screw through the top cover.

Then carefully remove the rubber.

Installation of new rubber is carried out in the reverse order. Lubricate the edges with detergent to make installation easier.Problems with a part of the electronics are manifested in braking modes, incorrect start of programs, "glitches". Repair requires a control module schematic.It is better to entrust this work to the master. And you can inspect the board yourself:

Remove the top cover.

Remove the detergent drawer.

Remove the bolts around the control panel.

Disconnect the wiring from the module.

Remove the top guard by unfastening the latches.

Burning or oxidation on the surface of the board indicates a malfunction. Take the part to a service or call a specialist at home.Not only front models are prone to breakage. However, the repair work is described only for them. We decided to correct this oversight.Almost all verticals are arranged the same:In such machines, the bearing and other parts are more likely to wear out, because all the nodes are close to each other. To fix the problem, you still need to get to it.How to disassemble the Whirlpool washing machine:

Disconnect the device from the mains and water supply.

Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the control panel latches. Remove the wiring pins if necessary.

To remove the top panel, unscrew the screws at the back. Lift it up, secure with a string or chain so that the lid does not fall off.

Unfasten the balancing ring latches on the centrifuge. Move it aside.

Unscrew the screw and take out the centrifuge activator.

Twist the axle washer and remove the drum from the tank.

Assembly is carried out upside-down. Along the way, you can inspect and replace the necessary items.If your vertical loading device is different from the one described, watch the video on how to change the bearing on a vertical loading machine:

Unscrew the screws and remove the bottom.

Equip yourself with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.

If you find a problem, change your pump.

If the pump has nothing to do with it, then proceed.

Loosen the clamps on the water drain pipe.

Remove the nipple.

Clean and rinse it.

Reinstall the nipple.

This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of load. The device of the Whirlpool top-loading washing machine is somewhat different than that of conventional SM, but the problem with it must be solved in the same way.

Often, after starting the washing machine, the control panel begins to behave inadequately: the display blinks, and with it all the LEDs flash. Also, the program you selected may not work.

If this is your case, then immediately turn off the CM, and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem is not resolved, it is worth calling the wizard, since the control module is damaged, and repairing it yourself is almost impossible. You will need not only a diagram of the control module of the Whirlpool washing machine, but also experience in such a repair.

If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash the laundry well, then it is possible, without the help of special devices, to determine the breakdown and carry out an independent repair.

The most likely reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor), but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements together. Then proceed according to this simple scheme:

Turn the machine so that the front wall is in front of you - this will make it easier to work.
Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear panel.
Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with working with the heater.
You will not see the entire heating element right away - only its shank is visible under the tank, to which four wires go, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the temperature sensor.
Remove all wires.
Take a tester and measure the resistance of the temperature sensor contacts. Check the readings at room temperature, and then - heating the sensor in warm water, they should differ significantly if the sensor is working properly.
Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal readings are 20-40 ohms.

With such a problem, the breakdown is likely to be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.

Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly identify the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots have gone along it. If there is very little scale, then the heating element may not have burned out, and if the water stone is 1 cm or more thick, there is a breakdown.

With your own hands, you can easily change the heating element as follows:

The contacts and wires have already been removed, so then remove the plastic shield.
Unscrew the mount - it is in the center of the shank.
Gently pulling on the contacts, loosening the heater in different directions, remove the heating element. The rubber pad will interfere, so be patient - there is nothing you can do about it.
Having taken out the heating element, remove the gasket.

Important! Mechanics recommend installing a new gasket together with a new heater, since leaks due to gasket wear are destructive for this important unit.

In the hole where the heating element was, there is probably debris and scale, so carry out a general cleaning; only then can the gasket be installed.
Install a new heating element, tighten the mount.
Replace the plastic shield.
Connect contacts to heater and sensor.
Reposition the bracket, and finally refit the car panel.

When, in the washing or rinsing mode, water flows from under the door of the Whirlpool automatic washing machine, it starts imperceptibly - first a couple of drops, then a thin trickle, and sooner or later the deluge begins altogether.

You do not need a diagram of the Whirlpool washing machine to find the cuff that is responsible for the breakdown. It is visible to the naked eye as well - it is a large rubber pad in your CM. It is located along the entire inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is to keep water out.

The most vulnerable point of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often remains there. If not tidied up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn seal to break it - then the leak cannot be avoided.

Important! Do not use a machine with a torn cuff - it will not be able to hold water. If a break is found, the cuff needs to be replaced URGENTLY.

If you are used to making repairs at home, then dismantle the old one and mount a new cuff.

Open the manhole cover as wide as possible.
Arm yourself with a slotted screwdriver and hook up the wire clamp - it is located over the collar.
After prying the collar, slide the screwdriver deeper under it and move it in a circle until you come across a connector with fasteners.
Loosen the clamp and remove it.
Take the seal with both hands and pull it out towards you.

For the attention of users: buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the hatch groove clearly to the millimeter and protect the tank from leaks.

Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.

Important! Do not use anything sharp so as not to break the seal - do everything ONLY with your hands.

Once the elastic is in place, quickly slide on the collar and tighten.
Check if the hatch closes and opens normally.
Start washing in test mode.
If it's dry under the typewriter, congratulations, you did it "perfectly"!

If water flows in a vertical type machine, then the reason may not be in the hatch at all - it is on top of it. You will most likely need to disassemble your Whirlpool top-loading washing machine to determine the cause of the leak.

There are a number of other reasons why the washing machine may leak:

The pump is flowing.
Depressurization of the tank - crack, hole, corrosion.
The drain or water intake pipes are damaged.
Depressurization of the water inlet branch pipe connection.
Depressurization of the connections between the inlet valve and the powder cuvette.
Oil seal wear.
Blockage in the metering hopper.
Tank drain tube worn.

Most of these breakdowns are simple and you can repair the leak yourself. The most important thing in this case is to correctly diagnose the problem. The trouble codes will help you with this.

The following error codes may light up on the display: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.

If you still have questions about repairing breakdowns of Whirlpool brand washing machines, read our other materials, in which we analyze in detail each individual malfunction.

In this article, we have considered only typical breakdowns that can be fixed without the help of a repairman. And if you are wondering how to change the bearing on the Whirlpool washing machine, watch an additional special video:

Video (click to play).