Do-it-yourself transmission rack hydraulic repair

In detail: do-it-yourself transmission hydraulic repair rack from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The transmission rack is a necessary equipment for every car service. It is used to repair the chassis, transmission, remove engine protection, dismantle mufflers and many other works. If it fails, the work of a car mechanic becomes more complicated several times.

The reasons for the breakage of the hydraulic prop can be different, for example, mechanical damage to the stem, which usually occurs when it is hit with a hammer. Of course, this is not done on purpose, but as a rule when dismantling suspension elements without using special tools. It is also possible that the body elements are sealed due to wear of rubber-technical parts; the rack may not develop a working force and not hold the required load due to a malfunction of the drain valve or damage to the working plunger. Mechanical failures of wheels and other elements are also possible.

Our company carries out all types of repair of hydraulic props on favorable terms. Terms and prices depend on the availability of spare parts for a specific model and the degree of damage. It should be noted that not all types of repairs are cost-effective. The final price can only be calculated after diagnosis.

Replacement of sealing elements;

We offer repair of hydraulic props of the following brands:

• Beissbarth • Bendpack • Brann • Hofmann

• Gruber & Stein • Kraftwell • Launch • MAHA

• Nordberg • Nussbaum • OMA • OMAS

• Orlandini • PEAK • ProTech • Ravaglioli (RAV)

• Red Line Premium • Remax • Rotary • Safe

• SIVIK • Silverline • SLIFT • Space Stenhoj

• Stertil Koni • Titan • Torin • Trommelberg

Video (click to play).

• Velyen • Werther • ASO Pskov • INCOST

• Technosoyuz • Storm • Sorokin • RST

• Other hydraulics from unknown manufacturers

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cittt Dec 08, 2014

Hello. Does anyone have any experience in rebuilding hydro struts? And what can knock on them when they start to end?

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kultur 09 Dec 2014

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MityaSVR 09 Dec 2014

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Tsepyatych 09 Dec 2014

New racks, too, do not save

It is not so often that the racks are bent in order to suffer such crap, kroilovo leads to a popalov!

This does not mean that you can go and give 10t.r.! Or 20 for a couple.

Kroilovo. People with hands call it renovation!

Now there is a tendency everywhere, it broke - threw it out. And the people, like a herd, “hawala” it thoughtlessly, overpaying a lot of money. Sadness :(

The racks are not the most repairable part, but this does not mean that they should be thrown out immediately. And think.

And what can knock on them when they start to end?

Honestly, I don’t know what can knock on them !? Are you sure they are knocking and not suspension elements?

Are the spheres okay? Have you changed?

I didn’t fix the racks directly. BUT I washed them, cleaned them. Dirt got in, it started to leak. Saved one of the two, still drives :)

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Igor888 09 Dec 2014

My stand is constantly sweating, then not perspiring. For a long time. Sweats more in winter. But on this stand the lower part of the anther constantly lifts up. Approximately as in the photo (the photo is not mine). I put it in place with my hand, in a minute it lifts up again. The rest of the pillars are dry and the anthers are in place. How are these anthers at the bottom attached, does anyone know?

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He took off the rack, took it home, washed it off the ferry, dried it.

He extended the stock, thoroughly cleaned it from the dirt. At the place where the rod goes in the working position, a barely noticeable development appeared, or rather, the roughness changed (micro-scratches, it differs in shine), polished with a good polish for the body (finishing, finest). Washed with polish.

Lubricated the rod with grease (not damaging rubber, gaskets), drove the rod "back and forth" in extreme positions, in which it does not go during the operation of the car. Removed excess grease.

If the boot has taken a wrong shape during operation, you can give it its own or even a little different with the help of a hot air gun. The main thing is not to overdo it with the temperature, do not keep the hair dryer close and provide for what you will hold so as not to burn yourself. Many are burnt on this :) For example thick gloves.

I will not tell you how to mount the boot.

P.S. in winter, more cold - this is normal. In the cold, materials shrink, the gaps increase. On c5-2, once at -30 * (both) racks flowed in a thin stream when I raised them to Max. This never happened again. The racks are still standing, the car is running, no problem.

Post has been edited by Monk-keeper on December 09, 2014 - 18:48

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MityaSVR 09 Dec 2014

Monk-keeper ,
Washing off dirt is not a repair. This is prevention and nothing more. I posted a photo about the disassembly of the rack, for this I had to cut it. I strongly doubt that the glass can be flared and then rolled back. And the rod seal wears out there, and what a hell to do with it.

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Shock absorbers are a kind of consumable for your car. Moreover, the cost of maintaining the suspension in working order is inversely proportional to the quality of the roads. Car owners are constantly looking for ways to save money on the repair and maintenance of their car. We will tell you about self-repair and restoration of the characteristics of the shock absorber struts.

Typical malfunctions of this node are known to everyone:

  • Depressurization of the stem packing. Leads to oil leakage from the rack. It can leak at any time. The characteristics change up to a complete loss of performance.
  • Too free movement of the stem in the pipe. In fact, the strut turns from a shock absorber into a guide for the suspension spring. The malfunction is related to the internal valves.
  • Compression or rebound play. Associated with the development in the rod or cylinder. The consequences are similar to broken valves. The shock absorber does not perform its function in a car, it knocks, rattles and makes other unpleasant sounds, why driving in such a car becomes uncomfortable and dangerous.
  • External damage - dents on the body, cracks in the eyelet. Affects the chassis as a whole and can lead to more serious damage.

If any malfunction is detected, it is necessary to remove the rack and release it from the spring. Dismantling is carried out in the garage, without the use of special tools.

Sometimes the owners of foreign cars, noticing that their racks have leaked, turn to the service station for diagnostics, where they will carry out a check at the stand.

In fact, this is not such an easy task. Before carrying out work, you should carefully study the material and observe safety precautions. First of all, you need to determine whether you have a collapsible shock absorber or not. The monolithic body is not repairable, opening with a grinder and brewing is unacceptable.

If there is a nut or a retaining ring in the place where the stem enters the pipe, such a shock absorber strut can be serviced and repaired.

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This is what a repairable rack looks like.

  • Compressor for supplying compressed air or pump for servicing bicycle shock absorbers.
  • Special connection for compressed air injection.

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Attention! Safety must be taken care of. Work involves high pressure, so eye and hand protection is essential.

  1. The shock absorber is firmly fixed in a vice, the position is vertical. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the part and blow out the piston rod entry point with compressed air. It is disassembled - removing the protective cap of the stem.

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For convenience, the work is carried out in a vice

Image - Do-it-yourself transmission hydraulic repair rack

Use a pressure gauge for control. The method is suitable for gas and gas-oil racks

You can watch the process in the video.

There are different opinions: how to fill a car shock absorber. Nitrogen, carbon dioxide or just compressed air? In a garage, there are few options.Compressed air will not degrade performance much, especially since this is a repair and not a factory made rack.

  1. The rack must be completely disassembled and cleaned of dirt and old oil. Check the O-rings and the condition of the inner pipe wall.

Remove streaks and other contamination from all rack mechanisms

No special equipment is required to work with oil racks