Striver pw325 DIY repair

A friend brought me a factory charger Orion PW325, it did not give any signs of life. Its prehistory is not known, it just does not work and that's it. I took it apart and saw black stripes on the board between the radiators, the fuse was blown. Well, everything was immediately clear, a short circuit.

Orion PW325

First of all, I went to the Internet in search of a scheme, surprisingly, the scheme is quite popular, as is the number of repairs.

It turned out that this is a standard circuit on a Tl494 with an isolating transformer driver, the adjustment goes through comparators on an op-amp LM324, the current shunt is a simple copper jumper. The circuit has protection against polarity reversal

Well, I solder the transistors and the Schottky rectifier diode, after opening the radiator ears from the bottom of the board. I solder the polarity reversal protection transistors and start testing.
The keys turned out to be dead, one body shattered. The Schottky diode was intact, the field workers from the repos were also intact.
What was the reason for the breakdown is not clear. I assumed that the capacitor in the driver circuits had dried up somewhere, so I replaced everything at once. I put new 13007 on radiators through thermal paste, 13007 and capacitors ordered from China here is a link to transistors, and here is a link to condenders. Everything is cheap

It's time to test, in the old fashioned way I run through the lamp. The lamp flashed abruptly and went out, which means there are no problems in the power supply. I removed the lamp and started it up directly, the power supply started working at the output voltage of 14.2V.

I put all the parts in place, put the body back together and gave it to a friend for testing .. Everything works as it should, the person is happy.
My opinion about this charger is not very good, the circuit is good and it is assembled crookedly. Well, a few photos as a souvenir

Striver PW325 (Domestic) I am looking for a charger circuit

I can't find the charger circuit - Striver PW325. In many searches, only stats are given. And the essence is this - the voltage at the output of the device disappears. The defect looks as if the adjustment resistor (sp3-4am) "breaks", I replaced it. The composition contains LM324N, and most importantly, it is not clear what kind of brown assembly is worth - 10 pins? (see photo)

Vityaz 54 CTV 6643-4 white glow

TV brand: Vityaz 54 stv 6643-4, chassis msh-93s
The problem manifests itself in the following: when starting from standby mode to operating mode after 2-3 seconds, a click appears, the kinescope screen unfolds, reverse lines are visible on a black background, the click disappears for a couple of seconds and the kinescope glows bright white

no brightness adjustment lends itself. where, what to watch? all this happened after the replacement of the TDKS (ret-22-22v). clicks, as I understand it, occur in the tube, maybe the tube.

so as not to produce similar themes ..

They brought the Orion PW 325 memory unit for repair .. of a recent release .. there is nothing filled in .. the circuit is not similar to BP AT or ATX .. ​​as part of the TL494 and on the other hand in the smd version there is another mikruha .. the name on the case is erased ..
Since the installation was done on SMD components, it is a little difficult to immediately delve into all the subtleties of this memory ..
Maybe someone already has material on this memory.

and if there is also a diagram of a specific device, then I would be completely happy .. Although the circuitry is very similar to a computer power supply, there is still a slight difference .. especially in the OS.

Lada 2107 Marine ›Logbook› Finalization of the automatic charging and pre-starting device Orion PW 325

Charging calcium batteries to their full capacity requires an increased voltage at the final stage compared to antimony ones. In my charger "Orion PW 325" the threshold voltage, measured with a multimeter, = 14.8 V. This is not enough to fully charge the battery of the Ca-Ca type (ka-ka, aha).

After reading the topic about charging the MUTLU battery at the ORION SPB forum, I set the threshold voltage of 15.5 V for the charge mode at constant voltage (highlighted in red dotted line in the diagram).

For this, the memory must be disassembled ...

We unscrew the long screws passing through the legs:

Removing the upper part of the case:

We unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws for fastening the board and turn it over:

Here it is - a trimming resistor for setting the threshold voltage (in the outer corner of the board):

We set the voltage 15.5-16.0 V when the charger is connected to the network in idle mode, i.e. when the "crocodiles" are open and not connected to anything other than a multimeter in voltage measurement mode. I limited myself to 15.5 V.

For the future, to be able to adjust the voltage without disassembling the case, I drilled a 7 mm hole in the lower part opposite the trimming resistor:

I also replaced the fan with a less noisy one (the native one buzzes very much) and a larger one - 60 mm on the outer sides.

I will send you this list, the links contain similar topics

Your high-voltage part does not work.
It is launched by a dinistor (the designation is unreadable), which is in the VT2 base. Start by checking it out.

P.s. The schema contains a bunch of errors. In particular, this dinistor should be the cathode to the VT2 base.

And where is it (the scheme) to find something normal?
The plant hides the schemes, considering them to be intellectual property. Some leaks into the network, but no one can guarantee their delivery. There is practically no information on repair at the factory forum.
Maybe then you shouldn't be so driven and stupidly buy a new one?

I suspect that after “plowing” and even with such a curve scheme, a bunch of additional faults were added.

But if this is a matter of principle, then now it is necessary to understand by the datasheet on the TL494 why there is no generation at its output. There are a lot of defenses, apparently, some of the start conditions are not met.

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On the example of the "Orion" charger, model "PW 260", its structure, operating modes of the main circuit elements, elimination of a specific malfunction and performance check are considered.

The device received for repair turns on, the green indicator on the front panel is on, charging is not in progress.

There is no voltage at the terminals.

Orion charger opened, inspected, fuse and cables checked, no visible damage. The photo below shows the main elements and details. Below the SMD board is the installation of operational amplifiers and other details. Next to the field worker on a large round frame, the inductance of the output filter.

There is a similar scheme on the Internet for charger "Orion PW 325"... The difference is that a pointer indicator is used in the PW 325, and a linear LED indicator in the PW 260. Well, since the output current in the "PW 325" is higher, up to 18 A, there are two field pickups at the output in parallel, and in the "PW 260" one. There may still be differences, but they are insignificant and, in general, the repair scheme is suitable.

We begin the repair by checking the supply voltages. The mains rectifier produces 306 V, this is the norm. Measured on electrolyte after diode bridge.

The power supply on pin 12 of the TL494 is 18.99 V. This is also within the normal range.

We check the pulses at the output of TL494 (pins 8 and 11) and at the input of the matching transformer. There are impulses everywhere.

Next, we check the pulses after the output diodes. They are present and their duration changes when the current in the load changes.

Moreover, there is a constant voltage after the output LC filter and at the output of the field-effect transistor. A close inspection of the installation revealed a poor-quality soldering of the output wire to the "+" terminal. She was the cause of the defect.

Another defect - the slippage of the output current adjustment knob was eliminated with a piece of rubber inserted into the adjustment knob.

The malfunction turned out to be simple, but the work done was not in vain. Now there is information about the operating modes of the circuit elements, which can provide significant assistance in subsequent repairs of such devices.

The article material is duplicated on video:

Thank you for the excellently presented material. As someone YOU are the best. Please tell me where the TL494 12foot micrometer is powered from in the Orion 320 charger.Many thanks.

Most likely, like the Orion 325, after the output powerful diodes, before the choke there is a tap to the divider and capacitor, 47 uF and then to pin 12 of TL494. At the moment of switching on after the output diodes, a voltage surge occurs before the choke, which powers the microcircuit. A generator starts to work in it, a supply voltage appears at the output, which further feeds the microcircuit.

Hello, if the LEDs blink and silence when Orion 325 is turned on, which way to look? still confused by the fact that if VT2 is unsoldered db3, then the voltage from the emitter VT1 comes equal to 55-56 volts, and when I put db3 in place, it drops to 30V and the dinistor reaches 29.8 V, which does not allow it to open on the base vt2 respectively 0

Check the denister db3, but it is better to replace it, and check the resistor in front of it for 2 ohms or 2.2 ohms, I don’t remember exactly

Check the supply voltage of the microcircuit at the 12th leg relative to its 9th and 10th legs. Check the power supply of the power amplifier, it is powered from the network bridge and has its own common wire, which is not connected with the rest of the circuit. This voltage can be measured on the electrolyte after the diode bridge. It should be around 310 V.
Some chargers of this type, but without output field-effect transistors, do not start without connecting a rechargeable battery. Their battery voltage starts the generator.

Explain the work of this charger, I put Akum on charging incl. The machine attached a multimeter, the voltage goes down, the current keeps 6 amperes, stood for about a day, the voltage dropped to 13 volts as it should charge

There are two ways to charge car batteries:
1.constant voltage
2. constant current.
In a car, the battery is charged with constant voltage. The relay regulator keeps the voltage in the car network constant, usually equal to 14V. In this case, the charging current of the battery is different, depending on the degree of discharge of the battery. It can be more than 10A. As it charges, the current will drop. When the battery is fully charged, its charging current is practically zero.
External chargers usually charge the battery with constant current. For this, the chargers have a current stabilizer, which sets the charge current (usually 1/10 of the battery capacity) and is automatically kept constant. In this case, the voltage on the battery will change as it charges. When the voltage limit is reached, charging stops. This is done so that the battery does not boil away during recharging and the plates do not collapse.

After charging, everything worked fine (ORION PW160), set it to a maximum of 6A. After a while, I approached the device, the 3 / t0C diode is on and the fan buzzes, I disconnected the battery with the expiration of the time, nothing changes, you turn on the temperature diode immediately, the fan turns on. I checked the performance as indicated in the instructions, the lamp does not glow. Tell me where to look. Only the tester is available from the complex. It's a pity to throw out 1750 money on the second charge.

This device turns off the charge when a certain voltage is reached, how to turn off the voltage control? Ask why? The fact is that according to the Ca + and CaCa technology, batteries tend to gain voltage before they are fully charged, as a result of this, the device turns off without actually charging the battery!

It is not necessary to completely disconnect the voltage control. It is necessary to increase the voltage by 1.2 -1.5 V. How to do this is described in detail here
The features of the charge of Ca + and CaCA can be found here
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2532/skolko-dolzhen-sluzhit-avtomobilnyj-akkumulyator/

And yet, in the diagram that is given in this article, a resistor with which you can change the output voltage is soldered to the TL494 at pin 16 (10 kOhm), in the diagram the resistor is red.

Hello. And yet tell me how to turn off the voltage control. I increased, as you write, the voltage to 16.1 V and no use. I put a battery (12 volts) for charging, the current is 5 amperes. After a couple of minutes, the current drops to 1 ampere. I measure the voltage - 16 volts. I kept it on charge for 8 hours. The result is 0. was 12v it was 12.3 Super charger.It's a pity to throw it away (not this rubbish, but money), if you know, tell me how to make a simple regulated voltage source out of this g ... by turning off the voltage control.

The battery is most likely worn out and has lost capacity. You can also raise the voltage with the same resistor. The increase in voltage will be limited by the number of turns of the secondary winding and the power supply circuits of the microcircuits. With a strong increase, they can fail. But you can increase it by 1-2 volts.
And further. Check the voltage on the battery, when it is installed on the car, with the engine running, the revolutions are not lower than 1000. If the battery and the relay regulator are regular and serviceable, then this will be the voltage norm for charging the battery of your type.
If the battery is worn out and its capacity is low, it will not charge. Let's say you increase the voltage to 18 volts on the charger and charge it a little more. On a car, after the first activation of the starter, it will lose everything and the relay regulator maintaining the voltage of the on-board network up to 15 V will not allow it to charge.

Good day! Please tell me - I connect Orion 260 to the battery, and the LED is off. What does this mean? The device itself is not plugged in. According to the instructions, the indicator should light up ...

Judging by the available circuits of this device, the LED is connected at its output through a current-limiting resistor between the terminals.
If it does not light up from a connected battery, then there are not so many reasons:
1. The polarity of the battery terminals is reversed.
2. Broken wire, non-contact of the terminal.
3. The battery is badly discharged.
4. Faulty LED, resistor or wiring (if it is on when connected to the network, then this disappears).
Well, that's basically all. Good luck.

Hello to all. On the website of the manufacturer of this Z.U. there is a forum where people ask, and the manufacturer's employees clarify various questions. And they also help with repairs. Here is the link.

Hello! Problem with Orion 325. They burned out, for the third time, I changed the terminal amplifier. Twice successful. But this time there is silence. The rectifier outputs 300V. And nutrition 494 on the 12th leg is missing. I connect the ends to the battery - green lights up, at pin 12 is 8.35V. I close my legs 14 and 3 - excitement appears on 8 and 11, i.e. micra is in good order. The supply chain from Schottky to 12 feet is traced. I turn on the network through a light bulb, it will blink for a short time and silence. On the radiators of the transistors, after disconnecting from the network, the residual 250V constant (accidentally climbed in with his fingers). Schottky dropped out and replaced, although it was intact. I don’t know what to do next. Hope for you.

Replace denistra db3 and check the resistor in front of it for 2 or 2.2 ohm

If the transistors have already failed, first you need to check, and it is possible to immediately replace the electrolytes in the pulse shaping circuits (in the bases) of the output transistors (4.7 microfarads at 50v). The same capacitor in the emitters of the pre-final stage.
Check the voltage at pin 14. Should be 5 V.
Check feedback elements. Current setting resistor to 3ms pin 494.
If it doesn't help.
Solder the terminal transistors. Apply power to the microcircuit. Achieve the appearance of pulses at the outputs (8 and 11) and check their passage to the inputs of the terminal transistors. The terminal cascade has its own land, connected to the network!
After that, the final stage, its transformer and output rectifier will remain.

There, the resistors smd 102 1kom 2 pieces and 2 ohm resistors also 2 pieces. denistr db3 seven-dimensional all this in the binding of transistors vt1 and vt2

Yes, I agree. The least reliable parts for which there is information about their low reliability should be checked first. Well, if it is not confirmed, then do not act pointwise, but go in order. Thanks for the comment.

I just had the same situation after replacing the transistors and turning them on again, they fired again, let's figure it out, these denistor resistors burned out there, I replaced them after turning on there is no self-starting on the denistor 29, i.e. it does not open from the battery, it also refused, after parsing it turned out that I was in 2 ohm place resistor set 2kom according to the diagrams on the Internet. Then I replaced it with my relatives. Orion came to life.

The inscriptions on the picture "controlled oscillator", "power amplifier" and "output transformer" smiled. I remembered a scene from the movie "Striped Flight", where they talked about the structure of a tiger.It looks like the author has been dealing with amplifiers before. In fact, it was necessary to write there "PWM controller", "push-pull converter" and "power pulse transformer".

Since the channel and site are also intended for those who are just mastering the basics of repair, I try to use more well-known and accessible terms. The same PWM, one of the options for a controlled generator. Tell the beginner a controlled oscillator and a PWM controller. What is clearer to him? For a prepared person, what I say and yours does not change the essence.

Phonit variable on the case. What to replace

It is not entirely clear which case. The body of the charger is plastic. There are two cases in the electrical circuit of the charger. One in the output stage, connected to the mains, the other in the low-voltage part, connected to the output terminals. Or do you mean the output negative terminal?

Yes, radiators of the capacitor housing and a minus one indicator shows a change

Could it be from Schottky diodes

And in the primary and secondary all

Actually, of course, the situation is interesting. I cannot specifically name the part that needs to be replaced, because there can be several reasons, from a faulty part to wet dust on the board. It is necessary to look for a malfunction. I will try to tell you, but I am interested in the answers to the questions:
1. Why did you start checking the charger with an indicator screwdriver, because it stopped working or felt electric shocks?
2. Which indicator screwdriver do you check, the simplest one with a neon lamp or a screwdriver with a battery?
3. Have you tested with this indicator screwdriver before and everything was fine?
4. Does the charger now charge the batteries or not?

Yes, it charges, it shocks when you touch the terminals with your hands, I checked it with an indicator with a neon lamp, I can't figure out what's the matter, everything is metallic under alternating current, not 220, but it's decent

Yes, also check where the power cord goes through the rear radiator. Is there any damage to the insulation of the power cord. There, too, a leak to the radiator is possible.

Hello dear! Help me repair this device.

The fuse has blown. During a detailed check, it was found that three of the four diodes of the 1N4007 bridge were out of order, one of the C2335-O transistors was broken, the other was also ringing strangely. A burned out SMD resistor from the extreme leg of the C2335-O power transistor to the central one. I checked the thermistor, its resistance changes when the heated tip of the soldering iron approaches.

Replaced two C2335-O with a pair of 13009, in a good solid case. Replaced all diodes of the bridge. The SMD resistor was supposedly replaced with the same one as they stand next to marking 102. Instead of a fuse, I connected a 75 W light bulb, turned on the silence. When connected to the network, the light did not light up. I tried to ring the transistors, it rings shortly, really made it through. There is nothing burned.

If anyone has experience in repairing this device, help. The diagram looks more like the one that is not sketched by hand.

On another forum, a person tried to repair this device and this is what he wrote “The neighbor asked to repair the subject. After reading the posts, I came to the conclusion that the terminals were mixed up when the battery was connected. From the deceased: a thermistor, a fuse, 2 diodes in the bridge, a 2 ohm resistor in the base of C2335, the path from the 4.7 uF conder to a small trance burned out. I also found a broken transistor with a base on C2 tl494 (11 leg), a transistor marked G1, npn. Tell me what his name is in full. Well, could 494 die, and in general, what goes out of order in such cases? "

I hope that my message will not be read in a few years.

The original Orion PW325 charger has broken.
It is built on a microcircuit of most computer power supplies TL494CN.

The battery was being charged, then the machine went off (knocked out the plugs). I tried to turn on the device in series with a 40W lamp - the lamp is on, the device does not work (there is no output voltage, which should be 15V).When the device is connected to the battery, the green “mains” indicator is on.
I did not dare to include only one of it in the network, and I do not see the point, therefore I disassembled it, found the scheme: / p>

I will make a reservation right away that I have no experience in repairing memory devices.

Visual inspection revealed the following:
Still, it looks more like mechanical damage, but I could be wrong (I opened it carefully). Soldered in place.

In general, even after soldering in place, the device refuses to work (the fuse is intact). Please tell me which way to dig, what and how to check (as I wrote above, the green LED is on when the crocodiles are connected to the battery).

40 watts is not enough, you need at least a hundred.

I helped you and you want to thank? BitCoin address: 15eE9G1eECrrRcFxtcGu57pg48nwjHzNmC

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Only a tester is at hand. I called the diodes in the bridge: for some reason, the multimeter 600 shows in both directions. Can't check transistors without load?

they cannot show EVERYTHING in the bridge like that - one or two are punctured in love. Transistors are also checked for breakdown with a multimeter, it is advisable to unsolder (otherwise you can measure through resistors and a transformer.)

I got back to the device. I check the transistors without soldering (somehow it was not possible to solder the transistor with one 25W soldering iron). 2 transistors (circled in red) on all legs in the diode test mode show 0 voltage drop, the multimeter “beeps”. Shows 1 more nonsense: 1400 on 2 paws, on one pair it also squeaks (circled in orange).

The question arises: either all 3 died (which is why I get a short circuit) or are they simply impossible to check without soldering?
There are elements on the board (diodes, it seems to me) 2 pcs - with the inscription FSIM - in the test mode they squeak in both directions (circled in red). What are they and how should they work?

I have not tested the resistance yet.

P.S. 3 more transistors on the board are alive.

question: why bother trying to repair, if even the minimum necessary tool is not available? So something, but a multimeter and a soldering iron for 40-60W (better than 60) should be.

I have not seen multimeters that show 0 with a diode dialing - usually at least some figure. For those that are short, measure them in the “up to 200 Ohm” mode, and the numbers are here. If the transistor is everywhere short, solder it out, and then check. And look along the chain, what else has burned out (for sure there is).

There is the same memory. They brought it, they said it was faulty, so I wanted to restore it myself. Opened, rang out all diodes, transistors, diode bridges and assemblies with a multimeter. As a result, it turned out that the diode assembly, which stands on the radiator near 3 field workers, was broken. Replaced. When connected to the network, the “Network” and “T *, C” LED start to light up pulsating (with a frequency of about a second) and all this is accompanied by a high-frequency whistle of the transformer, as if the circuit wants to start, but cannot (or goes into short circuit and protection is triggered, or there is no full start). When an external 12V source is connected to the battery terminals, nothing happens, the LED does not light up. What could be the reason, maybe someone came across ?!

The STRIVER PW265 charger was returned for repair with a “does not turn on” fault. During inspection and testing, a blown fuse was revealed, burned out tracks of the printed circuit board near the CMD resistor marked 514 (510 kOhm), burned out 2SC2335 and burned out CMD diodes for power supply S1 M (analogue 1n4007).

Charger "STRIVER PW265"

All elements of the circuit have been restored:

• fuse 3.15 A;
• the transistor is replaced with an analogue of ST 13007;
• diodes S1 M replaced by analogs 1n4007;
• resistor replaced - 510 kOhm (according to a similar scheme, probably 1 megohm).

On the board, next to the remaining chip, there are contact pads of one more element. In the absence of a schematic, it was unclear whether it was actually installed or not.

The striver pw265 circuit is very similar to the striver pw260 circuit found on the internet with some differences. For example, instead of a pointer indicator as in pw265, an LED is used.

A test switch was carried out through a 100 W light bulb, since there was a danger of a PWM malfunction, but everything worked out, the PWM controller did not burn out.

The device is designed to charge 12 V rechargeable batteries with a capacity of up to 65 Ah in automatic mode (decreasing the charging current at the end).It has a current regulator in the range of 0.6-6A with a current indication on a dial gauge, an electronic circuit for protection against overheating and short circuit in the load. It can be used as a power source for electrical appliances with a supply voltage of no more than 15 volts at the maximum set current, any consumers with a total consumption current of no more than 6.5 amperes.

The article number of the device is 12226. Download the instruction "STRIVER PW265".

Lada 2107 Marine ›Logbook› Finalization of the automatic charging and pre-starting device Orion PW 325

Charging calcium batteries to their full capacity requires an increased voltage at the final stage compared to antimony ones. In my charger "Orion PW 325" the threshold voltage, measured with a multimeter, = 14.8 V. This is not enough to fully charge the battery of the Ca-Ca type (ka-ka, aha).

After reading the topic about charging the MUTLU battery at the ORION SPB forum, I set the threshold voltage of 15.5 V for the charge mode at constant voltage (highlighted in red dotted line in the diagram).

For this, the memory must be disassembled ...

We unscrew the long screws passing through the legs:

Removing the upper part of the case:

We unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws for fastening the board and turn it over:

Here it is - a trimming resistor for setting the threshold voltage (in the outer corner of the board):

We set the voltage 15.5-16.0 V when the charger is connected to the network in idle mode, i.e. when the "crocodiles" are open and not connected to anything other than a multimeter in voltage measurement mode. I limited myself to 15.5 V.

For the future, to be able to adjust the voltage without disassembling the case, I drilled a 7 mm hole in the lower part opposite the trimming resistor:

I also replaced the fan with a less noisy one (the native one buzzes very much) and a larger one - 60 mm on the outer sides.

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I decided to talk about those jambs that I made during the repair, and point out the marking errors, an important detail, because of which the transistor was often knocked out at the input. I will not paint much, since the video is short and I hope it will be clear to those who are looking for an answer to their question.

I will say one thing about the search for a circuit for Orion, a lot of people are looking for it, and for some reason everyone is in a stupor when they contact this charger.

And the answer is simple, this device is the simplest, and those who have repaired pulsed energy sources at least once will easily cope with the repair of this device, unless the circuit with firmware and MK burns out. There, by the way, there are a lot of low quality diodes installed, which in turn should burn out before the power supply of the MK. And thereby protect the board.

At the entrance, I had transistors 13009 burning due to the fact that I put a 30A 40 Volt diode in a circuit where the voltage exceeds 100 volts, if not all 200. And there should be a diode 20 200 - 20A 200 Volts, and only this was the whole problem for me ...

13009 - burned out at a current above 10 A, or when charging the battery when the current needs to be limited by the circuit. I will assume that at this moment the voltage on it increases greatly, which leads to the output of 13009.

Of course, I can be wrong and they can correct me, but I see the diagram like this.

It remains to wait for 20m200 and the five-month repair of the charger will be completed completely, I hope the owners of this device, following their advice, will be able to fix it ten times faster!

I also told in the video how, in a simple way, you can get the temperature to be calculated correctly, the thermo resistor that is installed in the charger and does not really work.

Well, the video itself: