Knock on the steering rack ford mondeo 3 DIY repair

In detail: knock on the steering rack ford mondeo 3 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A small report on how I tightened the steering rack.
my car drove 176 pumpkins, there were interference in the suspension six months ago - a lot was replaced (almost everything)), but this did not save you from knocking in the front when driving through irregularities, pits and other road defects. it became clear that this was knocking the rail, and when the steering wheel was moved from side to side, a noticeable characteristic knock was also heard. in general, I decided to repeat the procedure that I had already done on the previous machine - ff2.
at first I tried to crawl up to the coveted place from the side - through the arch of the left front wheel, but it turned out that I had only removed the wheel in vain - there is no way even to see the place where this green nut is located. it became clear that the procedure without a pit (lift) is not feasible.
So here are the tightening tools - a 17 ratchet wrench and a sturdy knife. Ratchet wrench can be bought at auto parts-auchan-lerouamerlen. price from 350 rubles.
You also need lighting - a flashlight or a carrier.

now you can get under the car. you need to look approximately from the place that is under the driver's seat. look forward, between the subframe and the bottom. here is the place you are looking for, already cleared of dirt -

as you can see in the photo - you need to twist the green hexagon, around which the red fixing ring. You do not need to remove anything from the car, unscrew the stretcher or something else - too. you can crawl everywhere, you do not have to be gutta-perky.

there is no need for it, you do not need to attach it back - in the trash.

then take the ratchet wrench and twist it clockwise. here the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise there will be a very big byaka. it is better to twist it gently, by a quarter of a turn. in this case, you need to go up and check - the knock remained or passed. or the second option is to invite an assistant.
I needed to twist it more than one turn. as soon as there was little resistance on the key, I stopped. the rail no longer knocked.

Video (click to play).

after sea trials - the knock disappeared altogether, the suspension does not rattle again, elastically works out the pits.

Post has been editedks222: 11 September 2014 - 22:14

The device of the car is extremely complex and, despite the high cost and quality of its components, all parts have a margin of safety and sooner or later fail. In almost all models of modern cars, the most susceptible to wear and tear are the structural components of the steering rack. The Ford Mondeo lineup is no exception. It is the steering control system that bears the main load when driving, and the slightest bumps or pits on the road are directly transmitted to the rack by the steering rods. In addition, sudden movements of the steering wheel by the driver have an additional detrimental effect on the entire mechanism. Therefore, despite the increased strength, Ford Mondeo steering rack repair is required relatively often.

Ease of driving a modern car is one of the priority factors for most motorists. It is the lightest possible turn of the steering wheel and the "obedience" of the car on the road that become key when choosing a new car. However, not all motorists think that the more complex and expensive the mechanism is, the more expensive it will be to repair the steering system.
Several basic types of automotive steering rack structures are used in modern vehicles. The classic mechanical system has remained today only on outdated domestic cars.The relatively new hydraulic rack is the most common option found on most vehicles today. The newest design of the control system installed on the newest car models is electric. In this version, there is no power steering, and driving is carried out by an electric motor. This design is most ideal for most road conditions, however it is quite expensive.

In order to competently and as efficiently as possible carry out the repair of the Mondeo steering rack, experts strive to diagnose all components of the mechanism. The main components that make up the steering system:

Carter (or body). All the components of the steering rack are located in it, it is mainly made of light aluminum alloy, which makes it quite vulnerable.
Gear and toothed bar kit. It is with their help that the movement is transmitted from the steering wheel to the rods and further to the wheels.

Spring system. It is responsible for the absence of a gap between the rack and the gear, which guarantees that there is no arbitrary movement of the steering wheel.

Bearings. They move the rail when cornering.

Limiters. Establish and adjust the extreme positions of the rail.

Steering rods. They are attached to the sliding parts of the rail.

Tips. The wheels are turned directly.

Power steering. Provides easy wheel turning.

On more expensive modern cars, there are additional steering mechanisms that make the car comfortable and enjoyable to drive. However, if it is necessary to often drive on poor-quality roads, the motorist risks, because of all these "bells and whistles", much faster to disable the entire steering rack mechanism.

The Ford Mondeo 3 rail should be repaired only in specialized service centers, since only professional craftsmen thoroughly know the structure of the steering mechanism, so they can quickly and efficiently eliminate the damage that has arisen. In order not to need an emergency repair of the steering rack Ford Mondeo 3, you need to know the main features of the power steering system:

The design of the power steering of Ford Mondeo cars is partially built into the rack housing and its operation is possible only when the power device is running.
The torque is transmitted by a temporary transmission, after which the hydraulic booster is started, which sets the required pressure inside the car's rack housing.
A special computer sets the direction of pressure when moving on the rail and the amount of transmitted force.
The pressure is built up using a spool valve, which increases the pressure only in the required sections of the rail.
The complex of an electronic system and a special torsion bar determines the direction of pressure, which helps to turn the steering wheel at a certain moment of movement.
A container with oil is filled exclusively when the engine is turned off, as well as when driving straight. When the car is turning, oil from the reservoir, using the spool valve, enters a certain compartment of the steering rack and creates the required pressure level for turning.
The power steering pump directly controls the injection of oil to the machine's rack, and then returns it back to the reservoir when the pressure on the steering wheel is removed.

Such a system greatly facilitates the process of driving a Ford Mondeo, however, it requires constant preventive maintenance and checking for oil leaks.

The number of different malfunctions that can occur in the steering mechanism is significant. It depends on the design of a particular steering rack, because manufacturers are constantly improving this mechanism, trying to attract the attention of potential buyers. The increasing complexity of the device, in turn, leads to difficulties in the repair and maintenance of the vehicle's steering system.Repairing the Mondeo 3 steering rack, fortunately, will not cause great difficulties for the car service specialists, since the steering design of this car has already become classic and is not much different from the repair of the Mondeo 2 steering rack.

The knock of the rack in the area of the front axle of the car. At first, it is not very noticeable and occurs only when driving on an uneven road. If you do not contact the service in time, the knocking will gradually increase and will be given to the steering wheel area. As a result, it may be necessary not only to repair, but also to replace the complete steering linkage mechanism Ford Mondeo 3.
Difficulty running the steering wheel. Difficulties arise when turning the steering wheel in both directions and at the same time the whistle of the mechanism is heard.
Difficulty turning the steering wheel, which disappears with increasing speed, while an itching sound appears.
Poor steering wheel at a power steering oil temperature of up to 30 degrees. With an increase in temperature from 50 and above, the steering wheel travel is normalized.
Difference between steering angle and steering angle, vehicle drifts and steering difficulties.
Vibration of the steering wheel when driving straight ahead.
Power steering fluid leaks.
Lack of return of the steering wheel to its original position, as well as its spontaneous movement.

Read also: DIY 43101 instrument repair

In this topic, I will describe my own replacement of steering rods in a Ford Mondeo and tips with removing the steering rack.
Forso I don't even know what to do tell meabout the reiki, I wrote my opinion, but about the vibration, I don't know what to even suggest. It may not be worth listening to me, I'm not a master, and so, I say what I encountered))) But I have no vibration, and the rake has been knocking for a long time.Good time of the day! I have FF1 2003. I have such a problem, when driving at low speed on an uneven road, a knock is heard from the front on the right, they looked on the lift and found that when the wheel swayed to the right and left, there was a knock in the boot between the rack and the rod. We decided that the traction should be replaced. replaced, the knock remained. Question: Does the steering rack knock? Will tightening the bolt help in this case, as described here in the topic?to Ritor: Hello everyone, I have ff 1 2003. And this problem interests me, every bump, every dimple, everything is given to the steering wheel, on every hole, from the left means the steering wheel by itself drives to the left, from the right means to the right, the car vibrates like an imitator of m.x. my wife will soon start to get high. Racks stab. changed, steering nak. changed, the descent collapse was already worn out to throw money on him, I balance the wheels almost once a week, from the running test I did not find anything, what kind of dregs who will tell you? If there is a rake, then what about it? Thanks in advanceHello everyone, who can tell you if it is possible to repair the steering rack on FF2 with dv 1.8! Image - Knock on the steering rack ford mondeo 3 DIY repair

or anyway you need to change

to dzudon: Almost all car services will answer you: We do not repair rails, replacement - yes.

Can be repaired .. I know even a service where it can be done Alpha mechanics 102 Nizhegorodskaya str.

And there is someone who can suggest alternatives for Focuses 2 on the steering racks, preferably with codes.

I am grateful in advance to all who responded.

I made it a little easier. The truth is, I don't remember taking off the left wheel or just turning it all the way to the right. You can experiment. Then, with a long flat screwdriver, I knocked out the plug of the adjusting nut on the rail. No matter how much I did not shrink, I could not get close to this nut with a key from below. Then. He screwed the 17-point key to the skewer, extended his hand from the side of the left wheel and, just as he removed the plug, tightened the adjusting nut. Everything! The main thing is not to drag it. Maybe someone will use my experience. Good luck to everyone!

to agent: tell me and the adjusting bolt will not unscrew from the bumps

to borovoy: Tell me, did you find the problem? Eliminated? It's just that I have the same problem on Mondeo-3. Nobody knows what the matter is.

Passed the acoustic diagnostics of the rail at the dealer, at the same time announced a leak (seepage) of the gur liquid on the left side of the rail.

I connected Ford Sollers Holding LLC to the problem with the rail, before that I had applied three times to no avail, the first time right after the purchase.

The knock on the steering wheel is a focus problem, they say. It is better not to tighten the rail, because tightening will increase the load on the power steering pump. It can burn. August 6, 2014

Video. Ford. Focus III hatchback. The knock of the steering rack on the Ford Focus 3 is a very common sore and the service recommends changing the rail immediately, but in order to save money, you can try to tighten the Focus 3 steering rack with your own. How to tighten the steering rack in place? how to make a special key? very difficult, but possible. VK comments. Watch the video Ford Focus 3 steering rack tightening.

how to tighten the steering rack in place? how to make a special key? very difficult, but possible.Belarusian club of Ford fans Ford_Master Feb 16, 2009 3:13 pmSergei Remnev, And what, what about h..I am? what is it for? There is a knock in all slats. knocks in the "worm-rack" engagement. can be eliminated by adjusting (using washers). or disassembly of the rail with replacement of e.g. bushingsBlack, I think. You do not need itIt is better to swear loudly than to be a quiet, well-mannered creature.Velcom 653-15-13
MTC 573-15-13
Alexei
Remnev Sergey Jan 16, 2009 8:45 pm Black 09-03-08, 09:10 Tue Jan 20, 2009

USSRrat 09-03-08, 09:42 Black 09-03-08, 09:31 USSRrat Wed Jan 21, 2009 12:10 pmFocus 1. There was a knock on the steering rack. Is it possible to adjust the bolt to remove it, or is it not adjustable at all? Checking the steering rack:
Start moving, stop and again slowly and smoothly begin the movement, turning the steering wheel to the right. At the moment of releasing the clutch pedal or after a short period of time, a dull single knock may be heard. The knock may not always appear.
This knock may be a defect.ALL of these symptoms may disappear for a short time (a day or two) periodically. However, with constant use of the car, they progress and in the end they begin to appear always and all at once.As an option for self-diagnosis on the go - I could easily hear them, driving in a snail's pace into the yard - in this case, an unpleasant tinkling creaking and tapping noise is heard from under the muzzle of the car (a complete feeling that there are no knocks but something is wrong). But before that, I noticed all the symptoms for about a couple of weeks and began to pay close attention to them at every opportunity.
- if the car is pulled up on a lift, then it is enough to pull the steering rod - it dangled from me like a spoon in a glass.CONCLUSIONS:
The smooth but fast dying of a reiki is NOT ALWAYS like a reiki!
Extraneous sounds (creaking, knocking, etc.) when driving a car MAY BE exactly a sign of a rail failure!
In Phi Xie, no one says that it should be so - the diagnosis was made immediately and finally.By the way, when asked about the rebuilt rails for replacement, it was firmly stated to me that ONLY NEW spare parts are put under the WARRANTY!
P.S. A light knock when turning the steering wheel left-right on a stationary wound-up car is really the norm - as well as a single knock in the extreme left-right position (all the way). But this does not apply to the symptoms that I described.
P.P.S. The rail was replaced, the symptoms disappeared, the steering wheel became "clear". The effect is obvious - positive.Council number 1
Hello. steering rack, can be adjusted, but you need a special key. they don't do this on a Ford, they say that the knock is normal, but the backlash is a replacement. I made the key myself, and slightly tightened the steering rack, until a certain moment, the knock disappeared. As you can not tell. You need to pull up by a millimeter, checking the steering wheel to the left, right, so as not to bite the rail.Council number 2
I have a focus-2 restyling 1.8 mileage 30 thousand rake knocked with novya especially on bumps with a turn to the right and judging by the forums, not a single one. All this is nonsense that this is the norm on Fords and it does not fit. I do not know about others, but I have no specials. The key is not needed and everything is easily pulled up. Now it's better than the new one. I think that the system is the same on all 2 foci.Tip # 4
Hi, you need to swing the steering wheel with the engine turned off, and if there is no knocking at the same time, then you still need to check the ball joints. When you open the wheel, take it with your hands and swing it well to the right or left. The loof is well felt and visually visible where. I was already in the Spaniard after 20 thousand km. I replaced the left one, and now after 30 I started to rumble the right one when turning to the left.It is known that the FM steering rack costs a lot of money. Is it worth it to buy a new or used one after its failure, or can the old one be repaired? There were many messages on the forum about its successful repair, and I thought it would be nice to collect this information in a bunch. The oil seal numbers are taken from the correspondence between MT and Maxim, but he repaired, as usual, himself.The diagnosis is simple: leak. If it flows from under the discharge / return fittings due to a stripped thread on the rail body - a clinical case - decide for yourself. But if leaks from other places, you can try to fix it. Why try it? Because if the power steering fluid has not changed for a long time, then water may appear in the system, and the polished surface of the rod (shaft) of the rack rusts. In this case, even new oil seals are unlikely to hold.So, we change the FM1 steering rack oil seals (IMHO FM2 has no differences)

6877364 - stem oil seals (internal: flow from it to the left) and gear shaft - only 2 pieces are needed

6317413 - right stem oil seal

3760672 - gear shaft seal, upper

5014519 - power steering fluid 1l (preferably two)

3518119 - a sealing ring of the discharge / return unions - only 2 pieces are needed

19 head with a knob / ratchet: wheel nuts and a nut for adjusting the stem tension

Open-end wrench / cap wrench for 18: union nuts and rack bolts to the subframe. Haynes mentions specials. U-shaped wrench, but these bolts are already easily accessible. I used a key that was sawn in half - it is more convenient to fit to the fittings and it is easier to find an extension cord - a knob

Head / key for 15 (original) or 17 (third-party) - who has how: nuts for steering rod end switches

Open-end wrench for 31 or adjustable: who are lucky, and the steering rods have already been replaced with a non-original. Usually third parties make turnkey slots on the steering - the original does not

Not a very large gas wrench: this is someone who is unlucky, and the steering rods are original. IMHO there is no other way

Head 10: intake resonator nuts, steering column clamp bolt to elastic coupling

Sprocket wrench - torx - N T40: bolt clamping the steering clutch to the pinion shaft

Tie rod puller

Short Phillips screwdriver

Awl

Powerful vice

Rye converter

Rags and other gimp

We put the car on the handbrake, raise the muzzle and remove the wheels. Good stops are needed since both front wheels must be removed at the same time. DO NOT WORK WITH / UNDER THE AUTO SUPPORTING ONLY ON THE JACK!I think it would be a good idea to drain the power steering fluid.I acted according to haines (almost) and as a result the whole garage floor was covered with oil. By the way, Haynes also writes that you need to remove the front and rear engine mounts. I did not understand why this is needed (perhaps to free up space for the U-shaped key) and did not do it.Next, we disconnect the steering tips from the steering knuckles.If there is, remove the wheel arches lockers. In my case, the left was not, and the right did not really interfere.Somehow we see and unscrew the two tube clamp bolts on top of the steering rack, thereby freeing these tubes.We take out the breather tube of the anthers of the steering rods - it is simply inserted into the rubber of the anthers.Then you can unscrew the discharge / drain union on the rail. To access them, I removed the air cleaner assembly, disconnected the 3 round connectors on the left pillar cup to remove the wires to the side, and unscrew the air bracket (screwed to the left engine support). Perhaps you will get by with less disassembly. Also, do not forget to substitute a container under the car to collect the current oil (or have you already drained it?). Straightaway. plug the holes for the fittings with something badly falling out: there is a valve in one of the holes and if you lose it, it will not be very good. Dirt is not needed there either.We climb into the salon under the steering wheel and unscrew the bolt connecting the steering column to the clutch. Then we fold back the locking piece and disconnect the shaft with the clutch, after which the shaft can be taken away by the brake pedal so as not to interfere.

We climb deeper and bend the carpet. We see an egg-shaped plastic with rubber around the edges, covering the hole in the body. This cover has two latches on the long sides closer to the bottom, and on top it just has a protrusion with which it clings to the edge of the body hole. Taking it off for the first time (a long time ago), I safely broke off both latches 🙁 Please note: there are dots on the long sides closer to the bottom of the elastic band - they exactly correspond to the position of the latches. Pierce the points with an awl (or from the side) and wire there - the latches should open. The center flute cover is simply pulled over the clutch ring. Remove the cover. Local light is essential!Next, we look for a hexagon on the clutch (you need to turn it clockwise), unscrew it and remove the clutch from the gear shaft.In theory, the last two points should be done with the steering wheel set to the "straight" position in order to detect the position of the gear shaft. But this is impossible and unnecessary. Just remember the position of the clutch in relation to the body with the steering wheel in the straight position.We look from the sides of the car at the edges of the rail and find the mounting bolts: there are two of them - one on each side. We unscrew them.We take out the rail. I pulled out through the right wheel arch. Maybe you can pull it out through the left one as this path is shorter.Well, the rail was pulled out :), it would be nice to wash it.- I forgot: while there is no rail, it is very convenient to replace the O-rings on the fittings. Easy to dress up using a plastic bottle cone. The union also needs to be covered with something from dirt. -We clamp the rail in the places for fastening in a vice (not very much - aluminum!) And unscrew the steering rods. Before that, you can ride the rod back and forth, since the remaining oil will be squeezed out of the rail (in this case, it is better to pull out the fitting plugs together with the valve).Further, no matter in what order.Unscrew the clamping nut (large). It is probably blackened and spinning tightly. At the same time, its working height under the head is very small and you can tear off the splines very quickly - be careful. (I even had to chop it off with a chisel to “18”). After unscrewing it in your hands, a spring and a clamping plastic will fall out. It is better to mark the position of the nut before unscrewing it.We unscrew the lower plug of the gear shaft, the one with four cross-slots along the edges. I don't know - anything suitable - it's plastic and turns quite easily. Under it is the gear shaft nut - we also unscrew it. The shaft can be held on the reverse side - there are slots on it for the coupling.Further, where the pinion shaft sticks out, we pry it with a sharp one and take out a black round boot. There is a retaining ring under it - remove it. Now the shaft can be tapped lightly from below, and it will jump out. It has an oil seal, a roller bearing, and in general it looks interesting.Now you can unscrew the rail cap on the right side. It is a cylinder with an end thread and a hole in the middle, in which the rod runs (like a shock absorber). 4 holes with a diameter of 5 mm were drilled from the end of it for special tools. I deliberately did not include it in the list of necessities, since for sure no one has it. I unscrewed it with a force steering puller, since its paws are powerful enough and can fit into the rail. As stops inserted into the holes of the plug, I used screw heads of suitable diameter and lengthmm15. The puller was twisted with an adjustable wrench - everything unscrewed with a bang, although it was tight. Unfortunately, I did not measure the plug (this is for those who like to make a tool).Now we pull the stem from the side where it was unscrewed, and it will pop out together with one of the oil seals.Examining the stock for rye. In this case, you can smoke, since you now have to pull out the inner oil seal.Internal oil seal: look into the rail and see it. I fought with it: I could not squeeze it out from the back side, nor pry it with something sharp. And for a long time, until I carefully cut it with a long screwdriver and then faked it. If you use this method, be careful not to damage the cylinder mirror and the oil seal seat.Actually, then you can thoroughly wash everything and put it back together, but with new oil seals (use a suitable mandrel for the internal one). As the saying goes “assembly in reverse order”.Lubricate the oil seals with power steering fluid before installation.You need to install the gear correctly. To do this, set the stem so that it sticks out from the ends of the rail at the same distance. After that, insert the gear and, putting the clutch on it, roughly estimate whether its position will coincide with the one you remember relative to the body (when you were under the steering wheel). If not, change the position of the gear to the next tooth. The stem must remain stationary! (IMHO, nevertheless, the correct position will always be when the tapered splines of the gear shaft look forward - in the direction of the car).If you did not mark the position of the clamping nut, then I clamped until the backlash disappeared when pulling the rod, but at the same time the gear shaft could be turned by hand without much effort. I don’t know if all this is correct, mark it better. It is advisable to tighten the screwed nut again.I anointed the thread of the plastic plug of the pinion shaft with sealant. (It looked like there was something similar).I lubricated the gearing of the gear and the rod of the rack and the periphery with some kind of TSIATIM (an ancient bank was lying around). In the original, there was also a lubricant resembling our lithol.I screwed the steering rods to the rail already installed on the car - it seemed to me that it would be easier to put it in without them. It may seem different to you.When installing the rail on the stretcher, I again plugged the holes for the fittings and wrapped the ends with rags.It is clear that after assembly it would be nice to adjust the wheel alignment angles.Unfortunately, the repair of the steering rack is not provided in Haynes, Therefore, there is no data on the tightening torques of rack bolts / nuts.Steering rods to the rail - no dataBolts of fastening of a steering rack to a subframe - 137NmDischarge / return fittings - 31NmTie rod end nuts - 41NmIntake resonator bolt and nuts - 4 Nm

Video (click to play).

I would like to note the following. The service schedule does not provide for the replacement of the power steering fluid. IMHO this is wrong and the gur fluid needs to be changed at the same frequency as the fluid in the automatic transmission - i.e. after 45,000 km (well, maybe a little less often: once every 60 tyk).I will also make a cautious assumption that talk about “knocking rail” is nothing more than fiction - by and large there is nothing to knock on (I mean the original rail and quality materials). Everything is deep IMHO.