Caliper Opel Zafira DIY repair

In general, I tried to press in, zaazhzhivaya with a tire iron, but did not make much effort. I was afraid to break it. When I realized that the piston would not go further, I decided to remove and examine the caliper. Before that I had Ascona. There are only front disc brakes. There the piston runs without problems. I thought that this should be the case here as well. But when I pulled the piston out of the caliper (with turning, through the boot), I twisted the caliper in my hands for a long time, but I still did not understand how it works. I understand that it must be more difficult than the front one because of the handbrake drive. But I would like to understand its structure. Make sure everything is okay with him.

There is no service station in the next 100 km. I haven’t bought any books on Zafira yet. I climbed everything I could find on the Internet. No repair information. One advertisement and owner reviews. Even on the structure of the X16XEL engine, which goes to other Opel models, there is nothing. I'm afraid that if somewhere on the road, whatever glitches, you just have to wipe the headlights and knock on the slopes with your feet. In Ascona with C20NE I could even test the electronics with self-diagnostics. And here, without a tester, nothing is diagnosed. In vain I spent only 9 hours on the Internet to at least find out where this diagnostic connector is in it.

At the moment, the caliper is assembled, the piston is pressed in with twisting, and the brakes are pumped in the usual way. I drove 30 kilometers. It seems like there are brakes, nothing wedges and the hub does not heat up. What was there before wedging and warming up, I still did not understand. The pads are worn out, I think 50%. But the ABS light comes on immediately when you start driving.

Video (click to play).

In addition, I do not like that the engine rarely heats up to 80. I thought that the thermostat was to blame. I took it off, checked it by boiling. Everything is working. The frosts are no longer strong, but you need to drive 10-15 kilometers before the arrow T of the engine moves. And in the process of driving, she often go to bed at least until it stops. On the forums, I read people complaining that the engine is slowly warming up, but if it has already warmed up, why should it cool down while driving?

I have a large family, 4 children, and I am not a rich person. Therefore, the minivan was looking for a simpler and cheaper service. I'm afraid I have miscalculated with Zafira.

If this topic is still relevant, I post a picture with a disassembled rear caliper.
This caliper is installed on a Ford-Scorpio, '85, mot. 2.0 l. OHC. Although this is not essential. The device of those calipers that we had a chance to disassemble (Audi and VW) is the same.
The picture does not show the piston boot and the steering knuckle oil seal (thrown out during disassembly) and the steering knuckle spring. I tried to arrange the details in the sequence of disassembly.

1- Brake caliper housing.
2- Piston O-ring.
3- Piston.
4- Retaining ring.
5- Recoil spring housing.
6- Recoil spring.
7- Retaining ring.
8- Washer - return spring stop.
9- Retaining washer.
10- Screw.
11- O-ring.
12- Push rod.
13- Rotary fist.

Usually wedging of the rear disc brakes is associated with the non-return of the steering knuckle when the car is installed on the handbrake. There may be two reasons - or the parking brake cable wedges, or the steering knuckle wedges. This machine had both the first and the second at the same time. It is desirable to change the cable (Can I try to develop a VD-40)? and go through the brake caliper with the replacement of all rubber bands.
This work is not difficult in principle. The most disgusting removal (and even more installation) of the retaining rings. The caliper is washed in plain water, followed by cleaning and drying with compressed air.

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