Today we are servicing a Suzuki Grand Vitara car, on which it is necessary to replace the transfer case oil seal. We will show you a detailed photo and video instruction on how to do everything yourself.
Leaking oil seal is one of the common problems in this car, if you look under the bottom, you can see traces of oil around the transfer case. To get to the oil seal, it will be necessary to remove the propeller shaft.
We unscrew the 4 bolts attaching the propeller shaft to the flange of the rear gearbox, it is most convenient to do this using a 17 socket head with a knob and an open-end wrench:
We take it to the side and lower the gimbal down, after that we take it away from the transfer case with our hands and remove it. We remove the oil seal with a reverse hammer, at the end of which a hook is installed, we start it by the oil seal and pull it out:
If you do not have such a tool, you can, in principle, cope with improvised means, although it will be much harder. To press in a new oil seal, we need to select the appropriate mandrel. Its diameter is 54 mm, the mandrel should be slightly smaller.
We use a mandrel with an outer diameter of 52 mm. First, we place the oil seal by hand on the seating surface, as far as possible, so that it locks in there. Next, we press it in with our mandrel (by the way, it is from a set of tools for repairing a Moskvich gearbox):
It is not worth "getting carried away" strongly with pressing, it is necessary to deepen it from the edge of the chamfer by about 1 mm. After that, we put the propeller shaft in place. If necessary, add oil to the transfer case if you have been driving for a long time with a leaked oil seal.
VIDEO
Backup video how to replace the transfer case oil seal in Suzuki Grant Vitara:
Sooner or later, every motorist is faced with the need to change the oil in the gearbox of his car. To do this, it is absolutely not necessary to contact a car service specialist, the procedure can be done by hand, while saving time and finances. Following the recommendations below, owners of a Suzuki Grand Vitara will be able to easily change the lubricant in the gearbox.
The main functions of the oil in the manual transmission on the Suzuki Grand Vitara are to lubricate the rubbing parts of the transmission to extend their service life, as well as to remove excess heat generated during the operation of the mechanisms. Over time, the transmission fluid loses its properties, accumulates metal shavings and other waste products, so it must be changed regularly.
In a Suzuki Grand Vitara, the oil in the manual transmission, according to the manufacturer's maintenance regulations, is supposed to be changed every 45,000-50,000 km, or once every 3 years. In case of non-observance of the manual transmission regulations of the car, it begins to show signs of malfunction, vibration and noise appear, problems arise with gear shifting, lubricant begins to leak and there is no guarantee that the car owner will not need expensive gearbox repairs in the near future.
Sometimes an independent check of a manual transmission in a Suzuki Grand Vitara reveals an oil leak. This may be due to worn gaskets on the input shaft, axle shafts, or selector shaft. If the gaskets are in order, it is worth checking the integrity of the box bodies and the tightness of the joint, if necessary, apply a sealant. Also, grease leakage can cause clogged breather or shaft wear. An experienced car enthusiast will be able to determine the cause of the lubricant leak and make the necessary repairs on his own.
Before starting work on changing the oil in the manual transmission, the owner of the Suzuki Grand Vitara must purchase a new transmission fluid in the required volume, as well as prepare the necessary tools. For a car of this brand, the manufacturer recommends using 75W-90 API GL-4 gear oil. The required volume is 1.9 l.
From instruments to change the lubricant in the manual transmission, you will need:
wrench 17 with ratchet;
box wrench 3/8;
wrenches for 17, 13 and 10;
flat screwdriver;
container for drained oil;
a hose or syringe for filling;
a clean rag or rag.
After the oil for the Suzuki Grand Vitara and the tools are prepared, you can proceed directly to the procedure. The step-by-step instructions for pouring new oil into a manual transmission on a Suzuki Grand Vitara consists of several stages describing how to drain grease from a Suzuki Grand Vitara manual transmission and the process of filling a new fluid.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
Put the car on a pit or overpass.
Unscrew the metal and plastic engine protection at its bottom to gain access to the manual transmission.
Find the drain hole, check for lubricant leaks.
Unscrew the plug with a 3/8 wrench.
Place the prepared container underneath, drain the used oil.
Clean old grease and metal shavings from the magnetic drain plug.
Unscrew the lower part of the gearbox housing completely.
Remove and clean the filter (replace with a new one if necessary).
Clean the pallet (you can use a solvent, then rinse it well and wipe it dry).
Put the pallet in place and screw it on.
Screw on the drain cap.
Pour the prepared oil into the manual transmission through the filler hole (it is more convenient to do this with a syringe, if it is not there, you should build a filler system from a hose and a bottle of oil).
Screw on the plug, screw on the protection.
At the same time as changing the lubricant in the gearbox, experts recommend changing it in the front and rear gearboxes, as well as in the transfer case.
Changing the oil in the manual transmission in the Suzuki Grand Vitara will not pose a problem for the car owner who has step-by-step instructions. Therefore, the replacement procedure should be carried out regularly to ensure the longest possible transmission life.
You can also try turning on the gears on a muffled car. If they switch with difficulty, then the problem is in the wings and the lever, they can cling to something, for example, a crookedly installed multlock. If they switch easily, then make sure that the clutch is working properly, then the problem remains in the synchronizer. Here, as advised earlier to finish off the box, of course, did it not interfere with checking the condition of the oil, if necessary, replace it.
PS. I noticed that if the lever is strongly to the left, then forward, then the first gear turns on with difficulty or does not turn on at all. But if a little to the left and forward, it is always easy.
You can also try turning on the gears on a muffled car. If they switch with difficulty, then the problem is in the wings and the lever, they can cling to something, for example, a crookedly installed multlock. If they switch easily, then make sure that the clutch is working properly, then the problem remains in the synchronizer. Here, as advised earlier to finish off the box, of course, did it not interfere with checking the condition of the oil, if necessary, replace it.
PS. I noticed that if the lever is strongly to the left, then forward, then the first gear turns on with difficulty or does not turn on at all. But if a little to the left and forward, it is always easy.
[QUOTE = Deymond; 37522] Was there a “boy”? Actually, we have only 3 synchronizers in the box: for II-III / III-IV and IV-V.
In modern manual transmissions, all the gears of the gears, which are forward, are with synchronizers. I won't say anything about reverse gear, because I DON'T KNOW. Therefore, I will not write and I will not LIE. Although I know that most boxes are without synchronizers in reverse gear. A manual transmission without a synchronizer in 1st gear, which I heard about, was on a furry UAZ with an awning instead of an iron roof. At least they looked at the diagram before writing nonsense. There are 5 gears forward, respectively, there are also 5 synchronizers. There are no 1-2, 2-3, 3-4. They are 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th (at 6-speed. 6th). And the 1st-2nd, 3rd-4th, etc. are the shift clutches and shift forks.Check the numbers 24311-64J01, 24311-64J02-gear, 24431-83001-synchronizer. Who taught you? Have you ever seen the inside of the box before giving advice to people? PEOPLE. Why are you silent? Will no one realize that they are deceiving you? OK. I am finishing, but some mats are left.
Was there a “boy”? Actually, we have only 3 synchronizers in the box: for II-III / III-IV and IV-V.
Then it is necessary to remove the entire clutch and watch-defect.
The boy was absolutely awesome. We have 3 synchronizers. 1-2, 3-4, 5. Look at the catalog: Group 50 MT transmission, callouts 21 and 26.29. If it were not for it, the gear would be spur, like the reverse, and switching from 2nd to 1st would be very problematic.
[QUOTE = Andrey74; 37576] The boy was really cool. We have 3 synchronizers. 1-2, 3-4, 5.
You have 5 synchronizers. There cannot be 3.
Added after 19 minutes 26 and 29 are the shift clutches. Synchronizers 33 and 33, 34 and 34 are inserted into the clutch on one side and on the other.
The boy was absolutely awesome. We have 3 synchronizers. 1-2, 3-4, 5.
You have 5 synchronizers. There cannot be 3.
Added after 19 minutes 26 and 29 are the shift clutches. Synchronizers 33 and 33, 34 and 34 are inserted into the clutch on one side and on the other.
Dad, you're wrong. The synchronizer is an assembled mechanism. And I as a “doctor” declare this.
Synchronizer device diagram: 1 - hub; 2 - clutch; 3 - locking rings; 4 - crackers; 5 - wire rings.
The gearbox synchronizer is designed to quietly engage the gear by aligning the angular speed of the shaft and gear. The synchronizer device includes: coupling two locking rings crackers wire rings The hub is rigidly attached to the driven shaft. The hub has slots for crackers and external teeth. The clutch is attached to the teeth of the hub using crackers, which are in the grooves. Crackers are pressed with rings or spring-loaded balls. The locking rings are located at the edges of the coupling and have teeth on the outside. Longitudinal grooves or threads are applied to the tapered surface of the locking rings to increase the frictional force.
As for people with heavy oil hands, they sometimes call a spare part so that the brain explodes - this is what I say as a salesman of spare parts.
Repair of the transmission (gearbox) Suzuki Grand Vitara can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) of the Suzuki Grand Vitara must be done only after initial diagnostics at a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.
We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):
Partial (local) repair of the Suzuki Grand Vitara checkpoint - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting a box is determining the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.
Overhaul of the Suzuki Grand Vitara checkpoint - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.
Removing the gearbox (if there is a gear)
To remove the clip, first press down on its center pin.
Use your fingers to push down the shift housing cover and turn it counterclockwise to pull out the shift lever (if equipped).
Remove the battery, dipstick and oil filler tube.
Disconnect the automatic transmission throttle cable from the throttle cam and bracket.
Remove the starter motor. But don't disconnect its wires.
Remove the bolt and nut securing the transmission to the engine.
For engines G16 / J20
Drain the transmission oil on an AWD vehicle or an automatic transmission fluid in a two-wheel drive vehicle.
If the automatic transmission of an all-wheel drive vehicle is subject to further overhaul, draining the automatic transmission fluid at this stage will make the job easier.
Before removing the propeller shaft, align the alignment marks on the coupling flange and propeller shaft.
Remove the universal joint flange bolts and pull out the rear propeller shaft.
Remove the front propeller shaft (if equipped) in the same way.
Remove the nut from the end of the gear select cable and bracket to release the cable.
Remove the gear select cable bracket by removing its two bolts.
Remove exhaust pipes # 1 and # 2.
Remove the transmission rigid mount (right), if equipped.
Disconnect and disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the pipes.
To avoid transmission fluid leaks, open the plugs at the ends of the oil cooler pipes and hoses immediately after they are disconnected.
While holding the drive plate steady with a special tool or the like, use a wrench to remove the torque converter mounting bolts. Special tool (only for G16 / J20) (A): 09927-56010
Remove the nuts connecting the engine and transmission.
Disconnect the connectors from the vehicle speed sensor, output speed sensor, input speed sensor, TR switch, shift and TCC (interlock) solenoid valves and other electrical parts and disconnect their wires from the terminals.
Using a gearbox jack, remove the rear mount by removing the bolts.
Leaving the transmission (and gear, if equipped) on the jack, move them towards the rear and lower them with the torque converter.
The transmission (and gear, if equipped) can tilt back on the jack. For safety reasons, it is recommended to use the auxiliary jack lever.
Make sure that the transmission and (gear, if equipped) are in a horizontal position throughout the entire operation. If they tilt, the torque converter may fall and cause injury and automatic transmission fluid may leak out.
All information on the site is for reference only and is not a public offer defined by article 437 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. If you notice an inaccuracy or error, we ask you to report it to. You will help us a lot if you describe the problem as fully as possible (which page you were on, what you did, what happened, etc.), and also attach a screen.
The oil change of the front and rear differentials, as well as the transfer case, as specified by the manufacturer, is performed every 45,000 km or every 3 years. It is also highly recommended to change the oil in case there is a suspicion of water entering the crankcase of the unit. To check, it is enough to unscrew the filler plug and look at the color of the flowing oil, the presence of a white emulsion indicates the presence of water and the need to change the oil.
Required tools: a standard set of metric sockets, a square wrench for unscrewing the drain plug (a 3/8 "square driver, a 200 mm extension with a 3/8" square), a container for draining used oil, a syringe or funnel with a long hose for filling oil.
It is advisable to warm up the differential before changing the oil. To do this, it is enough to drive a few kilometers. A pit or overpass for changing the oil is desirable, but not necessary - the plugs on the differential housing are in an easily accessible place, they can be unscrewed while lying on the ground. If additional crankcase protection is installed, remove it, as it will interfere. Thoroughly clean the squares of the drain plug from dirt.
Try to unscrew the filler plug using a 3/8 ″ square knob and a 200 mm extension cord attached to it.If everything worked out, then we substitute the container for draining the oil under the crankcase and unscrew the drain plug. The drain plug on the inside is equipped with a magnet for collecting metal filings - we clean it from adhering particles. We are waiting for the end of the oil drain, wrap the drain plug in place. Using an oil filler or a funnel with a hose, fill in fresh oil with a volume of about 1 liter until the oil starts to flow out of the filler hole. We wrap the filler plug in place.
The rear differential oil is changed in the same way. The photo shows the location of the drain and filler plugs.
Before unscrewing the drain plug, we must first try to unscrew the filler plug, since if it sticks, an unpleasant situation may arise with the impossibility of pouring oil into the unit. It is more convenient to fill in oil with a syringe, because it is extremely problematic to do this with a funnel. The volume of the oil to be poured is about 0.9 liters.
Changing the transfer case oil is completely similar to changing the oil in the two previous units - first you need to clean the holes of the drain and filler plugs from dirt, then try to unscrew the filler plug and only then unscrew the drain. It is highly desirable to replace it on a pit or overpass, since the transfer case is located almost in the middle of the car. The photo shows the location of the drain and filler plugs.
The oil must be filled with a syringe, the total volume of the oil to be filled is about 1.6 liters.
very helpful recommendations, thanks for the information and clarity. I would like to know about replacing the filter in the cabin with the Suzuki Grand Vitara J20A -140 hp. 2010 release. and the location of the jack when removing the wheels.
Nice article, nothing more. It is advisable to indicate the type of oil to be poured.
The indicated prices are for informational purposes only and under no circumstances are a public offer determined by the provisions of Art. 437 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. For more detailed information about prices, services, discounts and special offers, please contact the managers by phone: +7 (812) 331-46-31
* The exact cost of the repair is determined by our specialists when diagnosing the manual transmission.
7 permanently working qualified technicians with extensive experience in repairing manual transmissions
10 lifts for dismantling and installing units, providing the fastest mounting and dismounting in the city
Safe storage of cars during repairs in our own guarded parking lot, 24-hour video surveillance
A professional approach to every stage of work, from diagnostics and removal of the gearbox, to testing and running-in after installation
We are ready to purchase a faulty manual transmission from any manufacturer at the maximum price. You can exchange a damaged box for a working one (contract or refurbished). The unit can cost 1,000-20,000 rubles, based on its condition and modification.
Sale of manual transmission parts is carried out taking into account the technical parameters of the manual transmission installed on your car. The selection is carried out by a qualified specialist in strict accordance with the data obtained during the diagnosis of the manual transmission, which revealed the elements to be replaced. To save your money, more than 15,000 manual transmission parts, both new and used, are always in stock.
It will not be difficult for us and, believe me, there will be enough experience to repair any manual transmission of a passenger car or minibus. Our company is present on the service market and has been repairing manual transmissions, manual transmissions for more than 7 years. A simple calculation shows: 7 years is 84 months, and every month at least 50 gearboxes pass through the golden hands of our gearbox repair specialists. As a result, on average, we have 4200 manual transmissions that have received a new life, and 4200 satisfied customers who have found the highest quality and most professional gearbox repair in St. Petersburg.
DIY suzuki grand vitara car repair
In this article I will try to answer questions about replacing timing chains on a Suzuki Grand Vtitara from 2005 and above, with a 2.0 liter J20A engine.
The most common questions about changing chains on this car are how often they are changed and why they fail so quickly!
Let's start with At what MOT the timing chains change.
There is no such thing as such a regulation for replacing the chain in terms of mileage. It changes as it breaks down. Not literally, of course. The failure signal is the extraneous noise in the internal combustion engine in the area of the front engine cover. They can be constant, with over-gasification at a drop in speed, and at the time of starting the engine for the first 2-3 seconds. Everything indicates the degree of wear. Here I will clarify, the conversation is not only about the chain itself, but the timing mechanism assembly. These are 2 chains (upper and lower), dampers, tensioners, and stars. You cannot change it separately, I will explain why. In some services, when replacing chains, they often do not change the stars, I would even say they rarely do this. They do not do this mainly due to inexperience, or due to the lack of these spare parts in stock. This, in due time, leads to the fact that the chains will again begin to rattle after thousands of 10 km. Visually, the development on the stars, especially in the absence of a new one for comparison, is difficult to detect, but what is detected is already a critical development (displacement of the teeth or broken teeth). In services, those who specialize directly by Suzuki or often repair them and are interested in their regular customers change chains only in sets.
Why are they failing !?
It is for these reasons that the service life of chains from 45,000 km to 150,000 km appears, chains in engines that are serviced in a timely manner, the oil level is periodically monitored, and change at runs over 120,000 km.
Well, and accordingly from all this it follows that you need to change the oil no more than 10,000 km, and check the engine oil level at least once a week.
You can see the cost of timing chains here
Immediately I will make a reservation on the issue of breaking the chain, in my memory there were only 3 cars with a J20A engine where the chain broke, in one case the engine became not repairable (fist of friendship))).
Not a lot of creep, broken teeth on the sprocket))
Instruction (manual) for the repair and operation of a car Suzuki Grand Vitara from 2008 PDF RUS Ar
Instruction (manual) for the repair and operation of Suzuki Grand Vitara cars since 2008 PDF Publisher: Arus Language: Russian The manual is intended to help drivers and locksmiths to repair Suzuki Grand Vitara cars since 2008 with their own hands. The manual describes the device, repair, technical characteristics of units and various auto systems. The sequence of disassembly and repair of units is indicated using photos with detailed descriptions of the actions performed. Gasoline engines 1.6 liters. (M16A), 2.0 l. (J20A), 2.4 liters. (J24B) and 3.2 liters. (N32A). The Appendices contain recommended tools, lubricants and fluids, lip seals, bearings, tightening torques, lamps. The file is in PDF format that can be opened with Adobe Reader. The book is not complete, only pages from 1 to 227. The full version will appear, I will replace the file. You can download it for free at the link
Suzuki Grand Vitara is a thoroughbred SUV: a powerful torquey engine, small overhangs, a short wheelbase, a frame chassis, a ratchet with a lowering row and the ability to rigidly connect the second axle, a continuous rear axle in combination with a firmly knocked down, muscular body, large stylish wheels. At the same time, a cozy and comfortable interior.
A car that can successfully combine two roles - a car for every day and a car for a small off-road escapade. For thirty years now, Suzuki has been producing off-road vehicles that successfully combine the traditionally high Japanese quality and a relatively low price. Now it is difficult to imagine that the first model of this class Jimmy weighed only 600 kg and was equipped with a two-cylinder air-cooled engine with a capacity of 25 hp. The Vitara family, which appeared in 1988, opened a new page in the history of the company.
The spring suspension of its early models gave way to a spring-link suspension, the steering received a hydraulic booster, and the interior of the car lost its former Spartan look - it became more comfortable.Three years later, in 1991, the five-door Vitara was added to the range of produced models.
It was recognized as the car of the year in Spain, and in 1995 in Germany it was named the cheapest car to maintain. Suzuki has high hopes with the appearance of a new model - Grand Vitara. The all-terrain vehicle looks respectable, it is elegant, and the galvanized body on a sturdy frame offers considerable service life.
Its saloon is not only functional, but also cozy, and such pleasant little things as shoe boxes under the front seats will appeal to many. The new model is equipped with two gasoline engines with distributed fuel injection, including a new 2.5-liter power unit with a capacity of 144 liters. With. the maximum torque of which is at 3500 rpm.Despite the urban appearance, the Grand Vitara is well adapted to off-road driving. Four-wheel drive can be engaged without stopping the car, and, if necessary, engage a downshift in the transfer case.
In the McPherson-type front suspension, gas-filled shock absorbers are installed independently of the springs. The rear suspension of the classic five-link design allows the car to move confidently in different road conditions. We add that the power steering provides the maneuverability necessary in the city - only 10.6 m is required to turn the Suzuki Grand Vitara.
June 29, 2011 June 23, 2011
Disabling the automatic headlamp washer function for Suzuki Grand Vitara New Many of the owners of the latest generation of Suzuki Grand Vitara are uncomfortable with the automatic headlamp washer function. However, it is not. Each time the engine is started and the dipped beam is turned on, turning on the windshield washer entails a one-time automatic activation of the headlight washer. it is not very convenient, since it is not always necessary, it increases the washer fluid consumption and is practically not relevant in the summer. Eliminating this option is a matter of a few minutes.
Do you have a problem with the automatic transmission torque converter? Want to buy / exchange / replace or repair? We can offer you a full range of services related to the torque converter / automatic transmission fluid coupling.
The converter housing is attached through the adapter plate to the engine flywheel and rotates with it, spinning the oil inside the converter by the impeller. The oil passes through the converter reactor and enters the turbine, rotating it. The turbine, in turn, already rotates the input shaft of the automatic transmission. Thus, the torque converter acts as a clutch between the engine and the gearbox.
When D or R is turned on, a hum is heard in the area of the box, which intensifies when gas is added. Vibration or swimming revolutions while driving (this especially applies to the 6HP26 box) The car began to accelerate very poorly, lost dynamics - this can be affected by a malfunction of the overrunning clutch of the reactor, which is located inside the torque converter.
The car does not go anywhere with R or D on, although the engine rpm is increasing. Box neutral appears to be turned on - possible evidence of sheared torque converter turbine splines.
When D is turned on, the machine stalls or tries to stall. The problem may be a blocked torque converter. Most often this happens on Mercedes, on some older Land Cruiser models and on Subaru.
We can help you to remove / install a torque converter on your car. This is a difficult operation, and it is better not to do it yourself or in services that have not previously dealt with automatic transmission, because if the work is performed incorrectly, there is a risk of damaging both the automatic transmission bagel itself and the gearbox, which we have already seen more than once. The consequences are dire - this is a repeated, already more serious repair of the torque converter and a partial repair of the gearbox.
After removing the torque converter from the machine, you can start repairing it. Please note that a lot of those offering these services do not do them on their own, but are intermediaries who will throw you a few thousand more rubles on top of the repair. To repair an automatic transmission torque converter, special knowledge, experience and equipment are required. It is not possible at all to repair the torque converter on your own and with your own hands at home / in the garage. When attempting such a repair, you can only aggravate the situation and spend a decent amount on restoring the mechanism after these attempts. The price of repairing a torque converter depends on its breakdowns and averages 4-6 thousand rubles, after self-"repair" you may need to buy a new torque converter, and this is usually at least 1000 euros. If you are offered a new torque converter for 10-20-30 thousand rubles, they deceive you and sell you a BU torque converter painted from a spray can with paint to make it look like new. Suzuki grand vitara 2007 how to remove the torque converter.
Repair of a torque converter consists in dividing its body into two parts by cutting off the weld. Further, all the insides are thoroughly washed and then inspected for damage. Then all the necessary parts are changed, the torque converter lock is re-glued / repaired, the oil seal and O-rings are replaced. In some cases, when there is a leakage of the torque converter (for example, on Renault / Peugeot DP0 / AL4 or Chrysler 3.3L), its body is welded or changed. Next, the torque converter is welded in compliance with all factory parameters and checked. Only then can it be installed on the machine.
Sometimes the pump stuffing box leaks in the area of the torque converter. We will help you fix this problem as well.
In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
Suzuki grand vitara 2007 how to remove the torque converter