DIY repair of automatic transmission Audi a6

The device of an automatic transmission and its principle of operation are not known to everyone. But this unit, like other components of a car, tends to break down, and then the need for automatic transmission repair appears before the car owner. We will talk further about troubleshooting and repairing automatic transmissions in Audi A6 and Audi C5 cars.

An automatic transmission is an automatic transmission designed to provide automated gear selection based on driving conditions. This type of checkpoint has long been trying to adapt to the automotive markets of the former CIS countries. Recently, "automatic machines" have become more and more popular, today they are installed even on domestic cars.

In principle, the functioning and scheme of an automatic transmission is not much different from the "mechanics" with constant-clutch gears. In mechanical units, these gears are in constant mesh during vehicle operation. When changing speed, the corresponding gear is automatically locked on the driven pulley.

In the “automatic machine”, the gear pairs of gears are replaced by planetary gears, and the hydraulic and electronic control units of the unit are responsible for the choice of speed. Unlike "mechanics", when driving a car with automatic transmission, you will practically not feel jerks when switching speeds, since they are drowned out by the torque converter. It should also be noted that the automatic transmission uses an oil pump and an oil cooler. Indeed, during operation, the temperature of the unit can be very high, like a motor, or even higher. Therefore, "machines" are equipped with additional cooling systems.

When driving an Audi, gear shifting is carried out thanks to moving clutches. This occurs as a result of the disconnection and connection of the automatic transmission elements, namely the input and output pulleys and planetary components.

Disassembled automatic transmission

The work of the unit clutch consists in the constant compression of the annular pulleys themselves by the piston located in the drum. The oil goes through the hoses located in the drum, pulleys and on the body of the unit to the cylinder. Direct transmission of torque occurs during an increase in engine speed after a gear change. Control over these and many other processes in the operation of the unit is carried out by the control unit.

Audi A6 and C5 cars with automatic transmission, like other cars, are prone to breakdowns. Domestic roads do their own thing and over time, malfunctions appear in each unit. Below are the most common automatic transmission breakdowns in Audi A5 and C5 cars:

More complete information about breakdowns in the operation of the unit can be obtained with a complete computer diagnostics of the automatic transmission.

For self-repair of the automatic transmission Audi A6 or C5, you will need:

• spanners;
• flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• pliers.

Automatic gearbox type 01N was installed on cars:

Volkswagen Passat B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat B5.5 (3B3) 2001 - 2005
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 (3B6) 2001 - 2005

Volkswagen Passat B5 / Volkswagen Passat B5 (3B2) 1997 - 2001
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 (3B5) 1997 - 2001

Audi A6 C5 / Audi A6 (4B2) 1997 - 2005
Audi A6 Avant / Audi A6 Avant (4B5) 1998 - 2005

Audi 100, Audi A6 C4 / Audi 100, Audi A6 C4 (4A2) 1991 - 1997
Audi 100, Audi A6 C4 Avant / Audi 100, Audi A6 C4 Avant (4A5) 1991 - 1998

Audi A4 B5 / Audi A4 B5 (8D2) 1995 - 2001
Audi A4 Avant B5 / Audi A4 Avant B5 (8D5) 1996 - 2002

Audi 80 B4 / Audi 80 B4 (8C2) 1991 - 1995
Audi 80 Avant B4 / Audi 80 Avant B4 (8C5) 1992 - 1996

Audi Coupe / Audi Coupe B3 (8B3) 1989 - 1996

Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair. (Audi A6 with gearbox 01N)

Repaired automatic transmission 01N, made a photo report:

Symptoms: Impact on kickdown (from 4 to 3), light jolts when turning on the 3rd and clicks when turning on the back. In general, it was decided to sort out.
Car Audi A6 1995 onwards, engine 2.0, automatic transmission 01N.

We remove the crankcase protection, unscrew the cross member, exhaust and lambda, unfasten all the connectors from the automatic transmission:

We unscrew the drive (you need a 12-sided head for 10):

We unscrew the box from the rear cushions (in this case, it is necessary to unfasten the selector cable). Next, we begin to unscrew the box from the engine. You will need a horn and a head for 16. To unscrew the lower box bolts - you need to bend the subframe, for this we unscrew its front bolts:

Now we have free access to the lower bolts:

We unscrew the torque converter through the starter window. We remove the box:

Torque converter. You need to remove it from the box immediately after undocking it. So as not to drop and spoil.

We drain the oil as much as it flows out of the level hole. in a glass it is no longer so light:

Since we have already removed the box, then at the same time we unscrew the flywheel and change the crankshaft oil seal.
Old oil seal (it was leaking):

DISASSEMBLY OF THE MECHANICAL PART of the automatic transmission

Pull everything that is pulled out by the axle (assembly of clutches K1-K3 and brakes B2). We see the drive of the planet carrier, small and large sun gears:

Remember how the two retaining rings stand (the “pot” support and the B1 clutch lock). The ends of the ring should be on the sides of the lip:

We punch through the plug and pull it out. it didn't work either

We fix the drive of the large sun gear in the box. We put the selector in Parcking:

Now we can unscrew the bolt that is under the plug.

We remove the drive of the planet carrier, small and large sun gears:

We remove the assembly of the B1 brake piston and one-way clutch. It is necessary to pay attention to the position in which the “tongue” is installed.

Do not forget to replace the O-ring, which is on the right in the planetary.

We take out only the B1 package. The ring gear remains in the box - you do not need to unscrew it:

Package B1. There is no wear. The steel rings are not frayed, the clutches are not darkened:

The culprit of the rear engaging clicks is the split damper of the B1 package. It's good that not into several parts. otherwise I would have broken the gears there:

We take out K3. Found a jamb of a previous repair - a broken O-ring was installed:

This means that the K3 package was switched on with pressure passes. those. could not turn on smoothly.
The clutches are darkened and worn. replacement package:

We disassemble the piston on the press. The same "evil spring"

Piston. Smooth edges, not frayed:

Two clutches are darkened. them, too, for replacement:

I checked the piston - everything is fine there. forgot to take a picture.
There is a very important nuance with this package. It is connected with the fact that plastic centering plates are attached to the drum. So, the latches of these plates can interfere with the clamping of the package if it is not assembled correctly. The package contains steel rings of two types: one and a half and two millimeters thick. First, we collect thin steel rings, then two thick ones. This is how we collect thin rings with friction clutches and snap the plates:

On top will lay two thick rings and a friction clutch.
Latches that get in the way. Close-up photo:

K2 package. Well, everything is fine here:

We disassemble the oil pump. We check the surfaces for production. we are fine

View from the side of the reactor hub:

We remove the pallet. Pretty clean:

Maybe someone will be interested. You can make a dipstick and check the oil from above through the filler neck. The oil level should be at the bottom edge of the sump skirt:

Carefully remove the cable by snapping off the connectors from the solenoids with a flat screwdriver.

There is a jamb in the ATSG manual, the incorrect sequence of installing one plunger is displayed. and the shape of the plungers themselves, as it turned out, is different:

Here is the correct diagram of our valve body:

As you can see, we have a valve body of the model from '98. Differences are highlighted in red. It's a pity only a full-fledged updated manual could not be found:
We wash the valve body in kerosene and put everything back together. for this, traditionally, I use a cat litter box. very convenient, all metal dust, grains of sand, etc. settles under the mesh and does not float when washed. Clean plate:

Do not forget to wash the part of the valve body that is on the box body:

By the way, the balls are not the same as in the 01M manual. apparently such a feature 01N
In the manual:

A hammer on the separator plate can cause 3rd gear engagement problems. You cannot find a new plate on sale. you can try to grind off the stuffed side. there is still work to be done with this. Then:

I am calling the salty. Shifting EV-5 (N92) was out of tolerance among all solenoids. 105 ohms instead of 55-65 ohms. He is responsible for the smoothness of gear changes. Here it is:

When salty is turned off, it relieves pressure through itself. When it is turned on, it closes off and the drain stops (what is highlighted in orange), pressure builds up in the corresponding channel and pushes the desired plunger.
And this is a solenoid regulating pressure, of which there are two pieces (5 Ohm each):

One regulates the main pressure and the other regulates the converter lock-up pressure. Both were replaced, tk. they are recommended to be changed during repair.

Installing the B1 brake package:

We insert the planetary and put in a new damper:

Insert the assembly of the B1 package piston and the one-way clutch. there is a small ambush with a one-way clutch insert. She won't get up so easily. To alleviate the suffering, we insert the satellite carrier drive and, twisting it, press the clutch. Like this:

Do not forget to wash all the parts that we put in the box. Wash and install the large driven sun gear assembly:

Now we tighten the bolt at the back with the required torque and hammer in a new plug.
We put new O-rings and rubber bands from the gasket repair kit.
O-rings:

We put new rings and a rubber ring on the axle:

We also put on new rings and a plastic washer on the oil pump (from the side of the K2 package).
We put K3:

We put the B2 brake package and the oil pump gasket:

We put on a large O-ring on the oil pump. We hammer in a new torque converter oil seal and install the pump:

Insert the plastic B2 brake fitting, not forgetting to change the rubber seals on it. We install the valve body, loop, etc.
In principle, the box is ready. But there is one BUT. One mistake was made when disassembling the valve body. It looks like this:

Those. it was necessary to note the position of the plug.
Well, it doesn't matter, there is an adjustment method:
We expose the plug to 0.94 inches, which corresponds to 24 mm

Further, after assembly, it will be necessary to adjust the position of the plug for pressure. One full revolution corresponds to an increase in pressure of 1.1 atmospheres.

We hang the automatic transmission on the car.
Vadim (car owner) in the process of screwing something

We start up, warm up and. here we were in for a surprise. after transferring to the Drive position, the car stalls. what does this mean? - That the torque converter is blocked.
We hang out one wheel - it is, after transfer to Drive, the wheel starts spinning.
After analyzing the hydraulic circuits and the corresponding troubleshooting, we identify the culprit:

The converter lock-up adjustment plunger is stuck extended. He opened the corresponding GT blocking valve. here is such a hard forced blocking.
We buy, put a new one:

Now everything turns on normally.
Fill in the oil. We start the engine and, switching the selector in all positions, wait for the ATF temperature to rise to 36-40 degrees. To track the temperature, we connect the computer and monitor it using VAG-COM:

As soon as the temperature has risen to the appropriate one - we unscrew the control drain plug - all unnecessary will drain off by itself.
Checking the pressure:
In the Drive position:

It will not be enough. It should be 3.45-3.86 atmospheres for Drive, 6.56-7.59 atmospheres for Revers. Drain the oil, open the sump, turn the regulating plug by 1 and 3/4 turns.

Fill in oil, check the pressure:
In Drive position: 3.6 bar

In Revers position: 6.8 bar

Norm! Although you can add a little.

A bit of video.
Disassembly and assembly of the K1 clutch, automatic transmission 01N:

In the process of disassembly and assembly, manuals from 01M were used, since there is almost nothing on 01N:

In general, my friend and I removed the stove in order to remove the heel from the plate. When removed, they found a certain amount of metal dust on the magnet. There was a doubt that apart from one remaining problem - 2-3 aftershocks due to the embankment on the slab, perhaps somewhere they messed up and maybe one of the packages is worn out... So far, we decided to figure it out by drilling under a cone in order to remove the stuffed ellipse, they also ordered a new spring from Sonax. if it does not work, we will look for a plate for a replacement.

Doubt is a harmful thing, because haunts. therefore, due to the dust on the magnets, the box was thrown off again and disassembled to check everything. All clutches and steel are intact, there is no wear. So all the dust flew from the torque converter. We did not send it for repairs, because he was already there recently (the previous owner was renovating), and its general characteristics are positive:
- the reactor is blocked in the opposite direction,
- the turbine does not emit extraneous noise during rotation,
- the car runs normally at idle speed,
- the blocking works fine.
It was decided to rinse it with kerosene (while rotating the turbine with a K3 package), then blow it with air and spill it several times with oil to drive out the remaining kerosene. yeah. a lot of dirt. spilled several times - dirt comes out. while they poured kerosene and left - let it soak

Now about the box:
- Washers in place, no wear and tear.
- Bushings without wear.
- Pump surfaces without wear.
- Wear-free rubber edges of pistons and retainers.
The only doubt is caused by the o-rings of the pump hub and the K3 hub. somewhere I came across a review from Vlad-M that they sometimes flow (those from repair kits) and he only puts the cast-iron original. Therefore, my friend and I have plans to “slam” everything on the oil pump hub in order to check for the presence / absence of leaks

I could not find tolerances for K1. measured 1.7 mm from the pack to the stopper. a bit too much in my opinion. I also noticed that the stoppers in K1 and K2 are of the same diameter, but the thickness is different. difference 0.2 mm. Rearranged the stopper from K2 to K1. now K1 clearance is 1.5 mm, and K2 is 1.3 mm.

Prompted: ———————-
The gap in the package is 0.25 mm per clutch. It is not necessary to be small.
If the locking and pressure plates in K1, K2, K3 are not worn out, adjustment of the gap is not required. But B1 and B2 are regulated by the documentation.
The axial beating of all drums is also regulated.
Yes, the rings come across soft. But in your case, they have not yet been erased. ———————-

I found a little time - I added a photo as a whole in the report, and in particular on the tightness test:

Leak test:
It is necessary to inspect all surfaces to which the o-rings are adjacent. There should be no wear.
Oil pump hub, inside view:

Contact surface K1:

We also look at K2 - there is no wear.
We collect all this stuff on the hub of the oil pump and blow it under a pressure of about 6-8 atmospheres. We look, listen, if there are leaks, if the pressure holds. Small overflows to adjacent channels are acceptable. For example, when we blow into K3, a small part of the air seeps into channel K1 and goes out:

SEPARATE BIG THANKS Vlad-M for correct hints

If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.

All documentation in English is marked (eng.), In German - (ger.)
For everyone who has a Volkswagen, hands and the desire to do something with them.
For all who has Volkswagen, hands and desire to do something by them.

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As you know, a bad head does not give rest to his hands. A couple of months ago, oil began to drip from the engine-box junction. Moreover, the oil is clearly not from the engine, but transmission oil - both in color and smell.It dripped decently - after a week of parking in the garage, the dripping oil covered the bottom of the substituted basin:

For some reason, I was firmly convinced that this oil is from the automatic transmission box (and where else?) And most likely flows through the shaft oil seal and it is necessary to remove the box to replace the oil seal. Looking ahead, I will say that after removing it, it was found that the oil was flowing not from the box, but from the differential, which is located on the right side of the box and has its own oil (about 1 liter).

But since I took it off, I decided to write a small report on this topic. The box has the factory VAG code CRF, although in fact its real name is ZF 4HP-18. You can verify this by looking at the nameplate of the box.

All photos in the report are clickable, an enlarged image opens.

1) Removing the exhaust system

At first glance, everything is simple, but there is one ambush. If the glushak has not been removed for a long time and there are native studs, then when unscrewing the nuts, the studs will break off 100%, and then it will be very difficult to unscrew them without removing the head. To avoid this, there is probably only one way - to warm them up with gas welding. How to do this without damaging anything around - think for yourself, and when I was repairing the engine, I replaced the studs with M8 bolts with copper-plated nuts. [read more in “build AAH”]. Therefore, when removing the exhaust system, I did not have any difficulties - unscrew it from the exhaust manifold, from the box, and remove all the rubber bands on which the muffler and the entire system are suspended.

2) disconnect the axle shafts and cardan

- unscrew the protection (screen from the outlet) of the left CV joint - 3 bolts with an internal hexagon

- unscrew the axle shafts grenades. be sure to mark how they stood in order to screw in the same position:

the semiaxes are unscrewed with such an asterisk insert with a small step, size by 10:

- unscrew the cardan. be sure to mark as the cardan is bolted to the gearbox flange

after the operations carried out, the car looked like this from below:

- turn off the battery
- unscrew the front protective casing of the poly V-belt

- with a 17 key, squeeze the tension roller to the right and remove the belt. We mark the direction of rotation in order to put it back in the same way

- unscrew the two mounting bolts of the generator. The lower one (key for 13) unscrewed without any problems at all, but with the upper bolt (for 16) there was a problem. The fact is that a nut is screwed on the back of the bolt and it, stsuko, scrolls along with the bolt. Therefore, hold the nut and unscrew the bolt with the other hand. Crawling to this nut with ordinary spanners is daunting, and possible only from below. You can make it easier if you remove the exhaust manifold tin screen, but I was too lazy and fucked for an hour with this nut. In general, it is not very convenient.
- unscrew the wires going to the back of the generator.

- the next problem is to take out the generator into the light of day. It can only be removed downward, and even then, for this I had to unscrew the front engine support, the cooling pipe, and pull off the hose going to the thermostat from this tube (the coolant is naturally already drained beforehand). It was also necessary to loosen the fastening of the aluminum tank of the air conditioning system (hell knows what it's called) and move it as far as possible to the face of the car. This was the only way to get the generator out of the car.

- in order not to climb there in the near future, I decided to sort out the generator, especially since it had already begun to whistle and creak. You can read about generator repair here.

The starter is bolted with two 16 bolts - one on the top, from the box side, and the second from the bottom, from the engine side. In the picture of the automatic transmission fasteners, these are bolts N1 (upper) and N9 (lower). The sequence of actions is as follows:

- be sure to disconnect the battery if you haven't disconnected it yet
- we first unscrew and lower the front part of the subframe, for which we unscrew two hefty bolts with a knob and a 16 head (in the photo the bolts have already been unscrewed):

- remove the air pipe from the DMRV sensor to the throttle valve
- unscrew and remove the air resonator installed on the throttle valve. before that, disconnect the plastic crankcase ventilation pipes going to both block heads. The pipes, stsuko, are very fragile!

- one bolt is unscrewed from below, screwed into the box from the side of the engine and starter. In the next photo, this is the leftmost N9 bolt:

- Access to the second bolt is carried out from under the hood, it is screwed from the side of the box into the starter. The upper bolt was unscrewed with a knob reinforced with a meter-long pipe. Not very convenient - the hood gets in the way, but I decided not to remove the hood. 🙂
- we take out the starter, the wires can not be unscrewed - just put the generator next to it on the floor, the length of the wires allows it.

A link on the topic about removing the alternator and starter on the audi-club forum.

5) unscrew the torque converter from the flywheel

The torque converter (in common parlance “donut”) transmits torque from the engine to the automatic transmission. The bagel sits on the box shaft and is attached to the flywheel with three 15 bolts, which can only be unscrewed through the window of the removed starter. Before disconnecting the box from the engine, it is imperative to unscrew the bagel so that when removed it remains on the box shaft. The position of the bolt in the starter window is shown in the photo with arrows:

- we first mark the flywheel and the donut with paint in one place, so that later we can fasten it “as it was”. the bagel is marked through a special window on the box on the right side, access from under the hood
- for this operation, I needed an assistant who kept the crankshaft from rotating behind the pulley (with a 12-point head 24), while I unscrewed the bolts. The bolts sit very tightly, and you can't put a good knob in there, so it's better to unscrew it with a jerk, and you must hold the crankshaft very well.

6) unscrew the bolts of the automatic transmission to the engine

The box is attached to the engine with 10 bolts, most of which are "16", except for the N8 bolt (see figure), which is "13". Some of the bolts (top) are screwed from the side of the box into the engine, and the bottom 4, on the contrary, from the side of the engine into the box. Moreover, bolts N1 and N9 simultaneously attach the starter.

bolts 6, 6, 8 and 9 are accessible only from the bottom of the machine (part has already been unscrewed):

It is very inconvenient to unscrew the N7 bolt from under the hood - you can't get in there with a pipe or a knob, since the left steering rod gets in the way, so I unscrewed it from the bottom, from the pit, with a spanner wrench. The rest of the bolts are easily accessible from above, from under the hood and can be easily unscrewed with a knob with a meter (or maybe half a meter) pipe put on it.

7) unscrew the box from the pillows

Before performing this operation, drain the oil, I got about 4 liters. The drain plug with an internal hexagon rusted specifically and it was possible to break it only by hammering an asterisk into the torn hexagon.

We put something under the box, for example, wooden boards, so that after unscrewing it from the supports, it does not crash down on your head. We unscrew one bolt with an internal hexagon on each pillow. On the left, everything can be unscrewed without problems, but on the right, access is very inconvenient - it is impossible to crawl with a ratchet, a knob, or a key. I used a hex insert and twisted it with a 10 "spanner wrench.

After that, the rear part of the box is lowered onto the stands, the front part needs a little help, gently squeeze it from the engine with a pry bar.

To completely remove or move the box, you still need to disconnect the gear shift rod. But while the left support of the box is screwed on, it is very difficult to crawl there, so we unscrew the left support and with a key or head “10 ″ unscrew the nut securing the switch rod.

By lowering and pushing the box away from the engine, you can remove the donut from the box shaft:

This completes the removal of the box. It turned out that I took it off in vain, as the oil flowed through the internal differential seal - there is separate oil from the automatic transmission, but I gained invaluable experience in removing the box. Finally, a couple more photos.

Here it is, the disgusting oil seal, because of which so much work has been done:

Oil seal number 0734 319 339 is not in any catalog. It is also unclear from ETKE what number this oil seal has. Through the automatic transmission, we managed to find out the new number of this oil seal according to the ZF catalog - 0750-111-193

Along the way, I will solve the following problems:

- the oil seal of the “torsen” shank leaks (where the universal joint is screwed on)
- the seal is leaking on the electrical connector of the box control
- the torso is covered in oil, which means that the oil inside is already two times less than it should be
- the left cushion of the box is torn
- it is necessary to change the oil in the automatic transmission. mileage since the last replacement has already amounted to almost 70 thousand.
- the oil drained from the box is clean, without signs of any shavings or impurities. this makes me happy.
- all the time of operation, I was haunted by strong vibration on the body, when I started off with the wheels turned out, or made a turn at low speed. The time has come to cure this business - at the conference, Automotive News read the GMA advice to pour SAF XJ75W140 oil into the torso - synthetics specifically for the differentials of all-wheel drive cars. It seems like someone tried it, they say it helps.

An automatic transmission makes life easier for a car enthusiast and does most of the work for him. In such cars there is no clutch pedal, because switching to higher and lower gears is done by the "box" itself. The driver has only two pedals - gas and brake. But, the automatic box has a certain drawback - in the event of a unit failure, it is very difficult to carry out an independent repair, but, as practice shows, our article is quite realistic.

Before starting repair work, you must be clearly sure of the automatic transmission malfunction. There are several main signs that indicate this trouble:

- strange sounds appear during gear shifting. In such cases, repairs must be made immediately. Sometimes you have to replace the automatic transmission completely;

- some slipping of the car appears during gear shifting. With such signs, we can talk about an imminent breakdown of the transmission;

- obvious drips of oil are visible on the "box". In most cases, such problems can be repaired, but it is contraindicated to delay the restoration work;

- the oil has darkened. There may be two reasons - normal wear and tear or automatic transmission malfunction;

- in the process of switching on, the transmission does not work.

In all of the above cases, you must be ready for serious work on the automatic transmission repair. But don't worry - you will succeed.

If you decide to repair an automatic transmission, get ready for serious and painstaking work. The best place is a spacious and well-lit garage with a pit. All the necessary tools, replacement parts and an experienced partner should be at hand (if the automatic transmission is being repaired for the first time). So, proceed in the following sequence:

1. Unscrew the bolts securing the crankcase guard.
2. Remove the cross member, lambda and exhaust.
3. Discard the connectors connected to the gearbox. Unscrew the drive (here you will need a special “10” head with 12 faces). Remove the starter and through the opening unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts.

6. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the rear cushions. Pre-unfasten the selector cable. To remove the automatic transmission you will need a “16” head and a horn. A particular problem can arise with the lower bolts. They can be accessed by unscrewing the front retaining bolts and bending the subframe.

7. Try to lay the unscrewed bolts so that later you do not waste time on their selection during the installation process. Let everyone be in their place.

8. Take out the transmission and place it on a wide table.

1. Detach the torque converter and remove it from the housing. Proceed very carefully to avoid damage.
2. Drain the oil through a special hole.If the automatic transmission is faulty, then the composition will be very dark.
3. Unscrew the flywheel and immediately replace the crankshaft oil seal (if you leave the old oil seal, it can leak almost immediately after installation).
4. Dismantle the oil pump.
5. Pull the axle. Together with it, brakes (B2) and several clutches (K1-K3) will go. In the depths of the case, the drives of the gears and satellites will open to the eye.
6. Pay attention to the position of the retaining rings (fix them in your memory or sketch them). Note that the ends of the rings should be on the sides of the tabs.
7. Remove the plug. If it doesn't work, punch and pull.
8. Fix the drive of the large gear (it is also often called "sun") in the automatic transmission. Move the lever to the "Parking" position.
9. Unscrew the bolt near the plug and take out the drive of the satellites and gears.
10. Get out the one-way clutch and brake piston kit (B1).
11. Remove the planetary. At the same time, change the O-ring on the right side.

1. Get out the B1 set and leave only the ring gear in the automatic transmission.
2. Examine B1. Usually, this bag rarely wears out and looks very solid. Darkening is a clear sign of a problem.
3. A common problem with the "automatic machine" are clicks when engaging the reverse gear. The main reason is a damaged damper B1.
4. Get out your K3. Pay particular attention to the O-ring. If it's broken, change it. If there are scuffs or darkening of the clutches, it is advisable to completely replace this package.
5. Disassemble the piston located on the press and inspect it for wear or damage.
6. Disassemble K1. If there are darkened clutches, replace them.
7. It is necessary to assemble the package with special attention. Steel (thin) rings are installed first, and then a couple of thick ones. Then the plates can be snapped in. Lay thick rings and a clutch on top.
8. Examine package K2.
9. Disassemble the oil pump, make sure there is no depletion.
10. Proceed to the valve body. Remove the pallet and inspect it.
11. Check the oil level (it should be at the bottom of the "skirt" of the sump).
12. Remove the filter and discard the plume.
13. Remove the valve body and inspect it. Get out the plungers.
14. Thoroughly rinse the valve body in kerosene.
15. Check the jets (they should not be clogged).

1. Wash the part located on the gearbox housing.
2. Check solenoids. It is enough to measure the resistance (it should be at the level of 55-65 ohms). If they fail, replace them.
3. Place the B1 bag.
4. Replace the planetary gear and mount a new damper.
5. Flush all parts before installing.
6. Replace sun gear and other assemblies.
7. Tighten the fixing bolt (located at the back) to the required torque. Then drive in a new plug.
8. Change rubber bands and o-rings.
9. Re-inspect all surfaces that adjoin the seals for wear.
10. Install K3, then K1 and K2.
11. Return to place B2.
12. Install the oil pump gasket.
13. Put on the O-ring.
14. Insert a new torque converter oil seal and install the pump.
15. Return the B2 union, hydraulic units and other assemblies to their place.
16. Fill in automatic transmission oil.
17. Check the pressure in all positions of the handle (for drive - 3.45-3.86, for reverse - 6.56-7.59).
18. Enjoy your work and the repaired automatic transmission.

Remember that repairing the Audi A6 automatic transmission is a very laborious process that can take you more than one hour (or even a day). If you are confident in your abilities, have the necessary equipment and time - go for it. Good luck.

the globe "20 Dec 2009, 23:02

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Jura 80 »21 Dec 2009, 00:10

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safon "24 Dec 2009, 15:09

Sergeychik »05 Jan 2010, 23:49

LIS »06 Jan 2010, 12:47

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Last week they took in the repair of the automatic transmission Audi A6 C5

Automatic transmission: ZF5HP19
Year: 1999
Engine: 2.4L
Mileage: 241.000 km
Drive: front

The car was taken by a tow truck. Automatic transmission began to kick a long time ago. First, the rear one turned on with a strong blow, then it barely began to go forward. As a result, she almost stopped driving and got into emergency mode, after which she completely stopped driving forward. I drove back slowly. The box burned out completely, baskets A and D collapsed, the pump hub also failed.

Changed baskets A and D, pump hub, set of steel discs, set of clutches, gasket set, pressure solenoid, filter. The valve body and the torque converter were restored.

Repair time - 6 days
Warranty for the entire automatic transmission - 6 months, without restrictions on mileage and operation

The cost of repairing the ZF5HP automatic transmission is 62,000 rubles.
The cost to remove / deliver and oil is 10,000 rubles.
Total for turnkey repairs - 72,000 rubles.
Tow truck - free

Repair of a box automatic machine Audi A6 at the Service Station is:

1. Automatic transmission service speed
2. Guarantee of high-quality restoration of the automatic box
3. Selection of original spare parts for automatic transmission Audi A6

With a professional approach, the craftsmen take into account the gearbox diagram of the repaired foreign car, pay attention to the "weak" points in the gearbox device of each car. We take only qualified specialists who have been educated and trained on modern equipment. A fairly wide range of transmission brands we deal with allows even young specialists of our company to gain the experience necessary to perform complex repairs. We dare to note that restoring automatic boxes is a painstaking work that requires patience. And it is the very specificity of the work that is the guarantee of quality - in the field of aggregate repair, the work of only conscientious specialists pays off.

We work seven days a week and accept cars even in the most deplorable condition. The cost of repairing boxes for Audi A6 is fixed; the price of automatic transmission spare parts is indicated in the price list, which we provide upon request.

You can sign up for a Technical Service Station by calling our phone number, which is common for all divisions. 8 (495) 637-82-39. Be sure to call! We will advise you on all your questions.

Deciding what is required replacement of automatic transmission Audi A6, is accepted if it is cheaper to replace the box than to restore it. For example, you will need to reinstall more than half of the box's components.

Buy automatic transmission Audi A6 you can through us. Finding a used gearbox for Audi will be several times cheaper. However, it is impossible to guarantee that the Audi A6 with such a transmission will work for a long time.

We place an emphasis on new contract units, we offer options only after thorough tests for proper operation and, of course, without a guarantee. And even in this case, we still focus on remanufactured units, that is, removed, checked and received from a reputable supplier. The warranty only applies to contract units.

Please note that the information provided below is for informational purposes only. We will try to outline for you the main points in our approach to repairing Audi automatic transmissions, namely the box of a specific car model - Audi A6.

In most cases, the automatic transmission can be repaired, with the exception that the vehicle's gearbox has burned out (in this situation, it is necessary to replace the unit). You need to understand that there are parts that can be replaced, and if the elements cannot be restored. Perhaps this is the basis on which to rely when calculating the cost of repair measures.

The main faults inherent in the Audi A6 transmission make the following services popular:

1. A relatively limited service life is characteristic of the valve body and solenoids, whose functionality is gradually deteriorating in proportion to the wear of the clutches. A clogged valve body is one of the main causes of a breakdown, diagnosed on a computer.
2. Often it is required to repair the torque converter, popularly called a bagel. It will need to be sorted out in order to restore operability, along the way clearing it of metal shavings and dirt.
3. The basic task is to replace repair kits (Overol Kit or Master Kit), change clutch kits, steel discs, install new pistons, bushings, and other components.
4. The filter and pan gasket are often replaced.
5. Attention should also be paid to the oil pump, the failure of which is associated with operation with a broken bushing or dirty oil. Leaking oil seals are generally one of the typical indications of the need for repair.

In addition to replacing parts, welding is characteristic of automatic transmission repair. So, you will need to work with argon during the repair of the torque converter or if the gearbox housing is cracked.

We offer the following complexes of repair and restoration work:

• Overhaul of the transmission.
• Replacing a broken automatic gearbox with a new or refurbished one.
• Partial repair of automatic transmission.

If you are interested in complete technical information, then you can apply for an initial consultation by phone and drive up to the repair or maintenance of the automatic transmission at a convenient time. If your goal is do-it-yourself repairs, then we can provide information on the availability of suitable spare parts. Otherwise, we advise you to visit any specialized forum on Audi.

Which automatic transmission is installed on your Audi A6 is indicated on a plate located on the body or on the automatic transmission itself. By designating these data to our manager when you call, you will be able to receive accurate information on the availability of spare parts and the selection of analogues.

How much a spare part costs is a matter of the manufacturer's initial pricing. The only thing that is the same for an automatic transmission of absolutely any foreign car is that the planetary group is the most expensive element. As for the prices for the installation of new elements on the Audi A6, we provide the price list upon customer request.

Repair of automatic transmissions is characterized by the replacement of damaged large structural parts (sleeve bearings (bushings), oil pump, calipers, planetary gear sets, clutch housings and pistons, etc.) and small disposable parts (consumables). We will help you to select all these details according to the design of the Audi A6 automatic transmission of a particular year of manufacture.

We always have a set of gearbox repair kits in stock, which you can buy:

• Overhaol Kit - Gaskets, oil seals and o-rings.
• Master Kit - gaskets and friction / steel discs, o-rings.
• Gasket Kit - all gaskets.
• Filter Kit - filter and pan gasket.
• Bushing Kit - a set of bushings.
• Bearing Kit - a set of thrust rolling bearings.
• Banner Kit - gaskets and friction discs, o-rings, oil seals.
• Washer Kit - a set of thrust plain bearings.
• Sealing Ring Kit - a set of o-rings.
• Repair Kit - a set of elements for the repair of a single unit.

By default, we offer original OEM parts from the manufacturer, however, if the client wishes, our specialist will advise which analogs are suitable for solving the problem. We are trying to expand the list of quality, but cheap parts.

In fact, for each automatic transmission, a separate list of running parts has been formed, which do not need to be looked for separately - you can immediately select a running solution. And we find unique elements for the selected modification on request. Thus, for the Audi A6 automatic transmission, you can buy rem kits and elements of any type from us.

If the box slips, kicks (pushes), does not switch, makes noise, jams or even leaks, then it is up to diagnostics.It can be computerized or mechanical.

During the automatic transmission diagnostics, error codes are read on the computer, which must be correctly deciphered. The difficulty lies in the fact that they differ among manufacturers, so that you cannot do without knowledge of the list of denoting faults for Audi cars. This type of diagnosis is basic.

During the assessment of the condition of the gearbox, the technician pays attention to the faults that can be seen and heard. The auditory version of the diagnosis is the fastest, the visual and mechanical one is more difficult.

Reading error codes and indiscriminately inspecting the transmission is incomplete. So, we can assume that it is necessary to check the ECU and electrical circuits of the gearbox, clean the sensors from oil, and so on. The main type of automatic transmission diagnostics requires analysis. Subsequently, according to the data obtained, a defect list is drawn up and repairs are carried out without removing the transmission or with removal.

It's great if you can formulate the main symptoms of a malfunction by calling our manager. Additional information about the type of automatic transmission (code) will help to immediately calculate the cost of a possible repair based on the availability of spare parts.

How to pre-check the automatic transmission? List of indirect signs of defects:

• Gear shifting problem: long interval or slippage at increasing rpm.
• Automatic transmission oil flows, getting on the joints of the box or in the engine.
• Oil color: almost black brown oil, there is an emulsion in the liquid, there are bubbles on the dipstick (signs of foaming) or black bloom. One of the above is enough to come for inspection and maintenance.
• Strong burning smell (clutches or "iron" burned out).
• Noise in the gearbox, bumps, jerks.

Gearbox maintenance is a planned list of work to replace consumables (transmission fluid and automatic transmission filters). If necessary, minor "repairs" are performed - a set of solenoids, a brake band, gaskets and oil seals, a set of discs and clutches, and so on are replaced. They also carry out a control check of the gearshift modes, which is included in the diagnostics of the automatic transmission.

But a huge role in the course of maintenance is played by working with automatic transmission oil, since the rate of wear of the system decreases from high-quality oil. If the oil becomes cloudy, then we will talk about a partial oil change. But if the liquid has darkened, but is still transparent, then you should not change it ahead of time. A complete replacement of ATF is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's regulations, while it is necessary to remove the pallet.

It is important to measure at the end of the work oil level in automatic transmission Audi A6, since underfilling the liquid threatens to disrupt the pressure in the lines and air the system. At the technical center, when performing this service, by default, they take into account the peculiarities of checking the oil level for the Audi A6 box, both "cold" and "hot".

Before pouring in a new one oil in the box machine Audi A6, you need to decide on his choice. Our specialist will help you with this, who will select the right option for the automatic transmission. At the same time, it is important to focus not on reviews of automatic transmission oils, but on the manufacturer's recommendations.

If the owner has been operating a faulty automatic transmission for a long time, then the level of malfunctions reaches a critical one. And since it is too expensive to replace all the components, it is cheaper to install a new gearbox.