Do-it-yourself gazelle engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gazelle engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Engines, ZMZ 406 are in-line, four-cylinder, carburetor with microprocessor ignition control.

Repairing a 406 engine is a serious and responsible operation. If you do not have enough experience, it is better to contact the station. How to repair a 406 engine is described in detail in the car manual.

The list of parts to be replaced is up to each individual.

a set of tools (keys, heads, cranks), a torque wrench, etc.

Disassembling the motor will require a lot of space to place all the parts, this will help during installation when everything is at hand. We also remember, or better write down, the wires being removed. To avoid interfering, remove the hood and wipers, so as not to damage, cover the front fenders. For easy removal of the motor from the motor, you can leave it on, just put it somewhere.

After removing the engine, you can wash it under the hood and you need to inspect the damage to the wires.

In order to make the boring of the block, we take it to the factory with a flywheel and a clutch basket. For a car, this is a completely unnecessary process.

Having wasted, washing the parts with kerosene, we unscrew the four plugs. It is not permissible to find oil, antifreeze, debris in blind threaded holes. the liquid does not compress and the threads are damaged. We check the cylinder head, i.e. the plane of contact with the block, valves, valve guides, we change the valve stem seals.

It is not superfluous to take the cylinder head to the factory for grinding, since it is too dreary and not convenient to grind 16 valves. When everything is ready, you can start assembling the engine.

Video (click to play).

It is important to work with clean hands and tools when assembling. Bolts, nuts, etc. with a bad thread, we replace it with new ones, it is better not to save. It is necessary to tighten without effort - the thread can easily break off, and the restoration process is very difficult. It will not be superfluous to grease all the gaskets with a sealant, and wipe the places of contact with them with a solvent.

As a result, the motor will be clean during operation, nothing will leak.

We put the cylinder head on, insert the persistent half rings KV with an antifriction layer outward.

We close the crankshaft with covers. Do not mix up the covers. We also install the connecting rods. We tighten the cover bolts with a key of 10-11 kgf • m.

We rotate the KV for counterweights, it should rotate easily, by hand, and not with the help of a crowbar.

Next, we install the rear oil seal in the holder and screw it to the cylinder head, not forgetting about the gasket. We lubricate the outer part of the oil seal with a sealant, and fill the space between the working edge and the boot with lithol.

We tighten the flywheel. The flywheel on KV is put in only one position. A special washer is installed under the bolts. To lock the crankshaft, you need to stick a hammer handle between the block wall and the counterweight.

We put a spacer washer and a new bearing toe of the input shaft of the gearbox.

Further repairs of the 406 engine can be conveniently carried out by placing the block on the flywheel.

We collect the connecting rod-piston group. The new piston kit includes pins and retaining rings.

Before assembling the piston, it is necessary to heat up and lubricate the finger with oil. We immediately install one retaining ring in the piston, be sure to make sure that they sit in their grooves in the piston so as not to set the finger further than necessary. The lettering on the piston in front and the protrusion on the lower end of the connecting rod must be in the same direction.

We put the retaining rings, be sure to make sure that they sit in their grooves in the piston. There is a diagram of their installation on the packaging of the rings.

We collect the connecting rod and cover.Be sure to lubricate the cylinders in the cylinder head with oil, make a crimp for the rings.

We put the block out with the first and fourth cylinders. And install the pistons back.

Before tightening the connecting rod, do not try to twist the piston, otherwise break the ring locks. We install rings in the block, covers, tightening with a torque of 7-8 kgf • m.

Turn the block 180 ° again.

We do the same with 2 and 3 cylinders. Result:

The rotation of the block should be effortless.

Next, we install the dowels, KV stars, an oil seal.

We insert the intermediate shaft, lubricating, back, the oil pump drive shaft. We close the lid.

Tighten the timing chain sprocket bolts.

We put the block on the stand with the pallet towards the top.

We install the clutch, not forgetting to center the disc with the input shaft.

We fix the damper with bolts and put on the upper chain.

We tighten the cover with the gasket, the water pump.

We tighten the 6-sided oil pump, then install the pump and close the sump, then the clutch housing and amplifier.

We attach the starter, water flange and knock sensor.

We install brackets for pillows, power steering.

We put the front oil seal, lubricating the front pulley similarly to the rear.

we install the cylinder head, tightening the bolts first with a torque of 5 kgf • m, then 15 kgf • m.

We install in place the hydraulic valve compensators, having lubricated them with oil, a common front cover with plastic persistent half washers.

Then the 3rd and 7th. Do not forget: inlet - 1,2,3,4, and outlet - 5,6,7,8.

The bosses, on which the numbers are stamped, are directed towards the edges of the head.

We squeeze the 3rd and 7th and tighten all other covers with 3 kgf • m bolts.

Using the key, we check the rotation of the shafts.

The shaft pins must be on a horizontal line and point in different directions.

We put an exhaust sprocket on the chain, preventing the upper part of the chain from sagging.

Install the upper hydraulic tensioner in the same way as the lower one.

We close the covers: front and rear, fill the grooves of the slinger in the cover with sealant, screw it back.

We tighten the valve cover.

That's it, now the motor is completely ready for installation on the car.

That's it, the repair of the 406 engine is over.

It remains only to install it on the car.

Repairing the engine of any car is an extremely responsible and serious operation that requires a qualified approach. Along with this, with a great desire and appropriate knowledge, it is quite possible to cope with the conduct of the event in question on your own.
After reviewing the information below, you will get a complete picture of self-repairing a ZMZ-406 engine for GAZ, including the preparatory stage, disassembling the engine and reassembling it. The information provided will allow you to save a lot on the services of specialized workshops and be completely confident in the quality of the work performed, because each stage will be controlled by you personally.
Preparation of tools for repairing 406 engine

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First of all, prepare the site for further unfolding of all elements. There should be enough space so that you can conveniently arrange the parts in order - this will make reassembling the motor much faster and easier. If there is not enough space, label the items in any other suitable way. Mark and remove wires in the same way.
Remove the hood and disassemble the wiper panel (this will be more convenient). Cover these parts with suitable material to protect the front fenders from damage. You can disassemble in any sequence convenient for you. For example, to make the engine as easy as possible to remove from the engine compartment, you can remove almost all available attachments. Most craftsmen prefer to disassemble until only a block with a piston remains.There is no need to detach the power steering pump from the hoses - you just need to tie it up or put it somewhere.
After removing the motor, inspect the area under the hood for damage and dirt. Wash everything as thoroughly as possible with a metal brush and kerosene or gasoline.

Measure the clean block and crankshaft. Boring may be necessary. If you do not have the appropriate skills, it is better to take the items to the factory or to a specialized workshop - there they will check everything and waste it to the conscience. At the same time, you can give the flywheel and the clutch basket to the specialists. In the workshop, the flywheel will be checked for runout and, if necessary, will be trimmed at the place where the clutch disc fits, after which it will be balanced in combination with the basket and the crankshaft. For our beloved GAS, this service is very useful and necessary.
Buy connecting rod and main bearings, rings and pistons by size. After removing the parts from the bore, rinse and blow them again. Armed with a 14th hexagon, unscrew the plugs of the dirt traps, thoroughly clean everything there, and then put the plugs back. If you cannot unscrew the plugs of the block and the head (the 8th hexagon is suitable for them in size), do not try to do this with great efforts - you can damage the threads. In such a situation, it is enough to blow through the oil channels.

so that blind threaded holes are completely free of antifreeze, oil and various contaminants.
Be sure to check the cylinder head in terms of its fit directly to the block, the condition of the guides and valves, replace the valve stem seals. To grind all the available valves (and there are already 16 of them here) is not the most fun task. To make things easier for yourself, you can take the head to the factory or to a specialized workshop.
After completing all the above activities, you can start assembling the 406 engine.

Important! Wash hands and tools thoroughly before assembling the engine. Carefully inspect the condition of the nuts, bolts and studs for edge and thread breakage or other damage. Be sure to replace suspicious fasteners with new ones - you will not spend a lot of money on this, but the consequences of using low-quality fasteners may not be the most pleasant.
When tightening the fasteners, do not apply too much force - the thread breaks off extremely easily, but it is extremely difficult to recover. For additional sealing of gaskets, a sealant, as well as shellac varnish, is excellent. Pre-degrease the mating surfaces for the gaskets with a solvent or acetone, then wipe them dry.
To some, the above preparatory measures may seem too long and useless, but as a result, the already assembled engine will remain clean, and you will generally forget about leaks.
The assembly process itself consists of several technological steps. Perform each of them sequentially, and the final result in quality will not be inferior to the work of a qualified master.

Step 1. Take the engine block and lay it upside down. The dipstick tube will most likely get in the way at this stage, so it is best to install the unit on some suitable and, most importantly, reliable stand. At the same stage, you need to install the main bearings equipped with holes (here they are upper) and lubricate the whole thing with oil. Install persistent half rings on the 3rd support Crankshaft... For work, half rings are used that do not have antennae. Installation is carried out so that the anti-friction layer "looks" outward.

Assemble all the elements under the hood of the car, observing the reverse order of disassembly.
Fill in your preferred butter... Don't forget about the coolant. Make sure there are no leaks of any kind.Free the relay from the block, crank the engine with a starter - this way you fill the oil system. In the process of performing this stage, be guided by the readings of the pressure sensor.
Finally, install and connect the rest of the elements and start the car. Check for leaks. Check oil pressure, temperature and other relevant parameters. Resolve any problems found immediately. You just have to let the engine idle for several hours, periodically checking its condition, after which the engine can be taken into permanent operation, following all the requirements for running in a new machine.
Happy work!