Let's say right away that repairing a gas water heater, like any other gas equipment, is a matter exclusively for professionals. But, although repairing speakers with your own hands is not allowed, knowledge is not superfluous. The ability to determine on your own what exactly has broken down, how this breakdown threatens, and what the repair can be will not interfere with anyone. What breakdowns of gas water heaters are there, and what "symptoms" are they accompanied by?
To begin with, before getting acquainted with the basics of troubleshooting, it is not out of place to find out how the gas water heater is arranged, the repair will largely depend on the device. We will not delve into the intricacies of the device of many speaker models, we will limit ourselves only to acquaintance with the general principles.
Centralized hot water supply appeared relatively recently by historical standards. The issue of heating water at home was solved in various ways, but the most common one we had was a storage solid fuel heater - the so-called titanium. Titanium was fired with coal, less often with wood or fuel oil. The water in the boiler had to be warmed up in advance. So taking a bath had to spend at least an hour. Of course, using such a device was very inconvenient. The problem of fast heating of water was solved in gas water heaters.
The work of the geyser consists in heating tap water with gas from the city main. To speed up the heating process, a heat exchanger serves, in which the water flow is distributed through a system of thin tubes located directly above the gas burner. Due to this, it is possible to heat the water quickly enough, right in the process of use, there is no need to pre-accumulate the heated water in the tank.
This is the fundamental device of the gas water heater, all the rest of the filling serves to ignite the gas, regulate the heating of the water, and also ensure safety.
The column may not work for many reasons. Now we will tell you about the most common ones.
There may be several reasons why the gas column does not light up. First of all, make sure the pilot is on. If the igniter does not work, call the gasman from the public service, he will replace or clean the igniter jet.
In columns with electronic ignition, if ignition has not occurred, the gas supply is cut off by a valve, which the user is informed about by the corresponding indicator. Study the instructions (which you should have studied before turning on the column for the first time), perhaps the problem can be solved with your own hands by simply replacing the battery. Otherwise, contact the manufacturer.
Try to open the water tap to the maximum, if the column is turned on at maximum pressure, then it is the membrane that will have to be replaced. It is also necessary to check the filter that is equipped with the water intake of the column. Insufficient water pressure to open the gas valve may be due to a clogged filter. The water filter does not belong to gas equipment, and you can replace it yourself.
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Finally, the column may not light up due to improper operation of the bimetallic sensors. They will be discussed below.
If the column ignites but goes out, the culprit is most likely a bimetallic temperature sensor designed to protect the column from overheating. A malfunction usually has two manifestations:
The burner lights up, the column works normally for some time, after which it goes out and does not work for some time - attempts to ignite the results do not give results. After 15-20 minutes, the column can be turned on again, the burner lights up, then again, after about the same period of time, it goes out again. This happens due to the "innate" increased sensitivity of the sensor.
It also happens that the column goes out at the most inopportune moment
In principle, this is a warranty case, but the fact is that the problem is seasonal in nature and arises during the heat of summer or winter, when the windows in the kitchen are constantly closed. In both cases, the air temperature is elevated and the column is not cooled properly. It may happen that the problem will manifest itself when the warranty period expires. Alas, in this case, the repair will have to be done at your own expense.
Disconnections of the column are chaotic, the device sometimes does not light up at all. Such behavior of the heater may indicate deterioration of the insulation of the sensor conductor. A short to the body occurs, causing the safety valve to operate. It is useless to call the gasman - the problem is not in the gas part, you should also not try to fix it with your own hands. For repairs, it is better to contact the manufacturer of this model or to the service center.
If the gas supply occurs, it means that the water pressure in the water intake is normal, the problem is in the blockage of the heat exchanger with scale. One of the reasons may be "idle" combustion of the igniter for a long time. The igniter has enough time to heat the heat exchanger, causing active evaporation of the remaining water. The formed scale is not washed out due to the lack of water flow and until the next turn-on of the column has time to "grab", the result - the column does not work. Repair consists in cleaning or replacing the heat exchanger.
Scale-clogged heat exchanger Reduce water pressure
Possible reasons are as follows:
The gas pressure is too high, the burner ignites too actively, as a result of which the flame breaks out.
The gas pressure is too weak, air gets inside the burner, which is accompanied by a microexplosion.
The burner needs cleaning and adjustment. In principle, nothing complicated, but you do not need to take on this work with your own hands, the repair of the gas water heater should be carried out by a specialist.
Insufficient heating of water can be associated with a low power of the column.Do not turn on the hot tap in the bathtub, sink and kitchen at the same time, or buy a more powerful unit.
An incorrectly selected column will not have time to heat the water
Another possible cause could be a clogged burner, as indicated by a yellow flame. Call a gasman, a specialist will solve this problem in an hour.
This is already serious and threatens with the most dire consequences. Turn off the column immediately, turn off the gas supply valve, provide constant ventilation in the room, call the emergency service (104) and wait for the arrival of the brigade.
In conclusion, once again I would like to remind you of safety. Do not try to disassemble, clean or repair gas equipment yourself. This is a job for qualified professionals only.
Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.
The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.
This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.
A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.
To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.
Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.
To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.
It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.
Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.
Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature.Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.
In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).
This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.
When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.
With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.
The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.
This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.
Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.
There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.
The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.
This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).
The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.
Cheap but time consuming and laborious process ... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.
The following materials and tools will help us with this:
open-end wrenches (set);
screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
paronite gaskets (set);
rubber hose;
vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.
To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:
first, we block the access of cold water;
then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
we open the "hot" tap;
unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;
After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.
Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it ... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.
The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney.If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.
Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.
If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.
This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.
A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation ... It usually looks like this:
After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.
The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up ... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.
In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.
If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.
This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:
Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
screwdrivers (cross and regular);
open-end wrenches (set);
solder with rosin;
a vacuum cleaner;
solvent;
"Skin".
Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them. If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.
Preparing the gas water heater for repair
Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
Remove the radiator completely;
Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.
Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.
When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:
clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
Rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).
Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.
Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column.All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.
Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.
Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.
These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:
a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low gas pressure, which generated a microexplosion;
the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
nozzle blockage;
low draft of ventilation;
the batteries are dead.
On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.
This can happen for several reasons.
The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater ... You have saved money and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
The third reason is the usual blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.
You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.
To meet the needs of consumers in hot water, a variety of water heaters, both electric and gas, have been developed. For reliable operation, they are equipped with new monitoring and protection systems for safe and long-term operation. But no matter how reliable the water heaters are, they also fail over time. Repair of gas water heaters, as a rule, should be carried out by professionals, but in some cases it is possible to troubleshoot independently.
The gas water heater is a rather unpretentious device in operation and can work for a long time without breakdowns. But if they happen, then you can diagnose the gas column for the correct repair of the apparatus by the following signs:
power problems;
malfunction of the water unit;
malfunctions in the gas block;
incorrect installation.
If there are malfunctions in the gas block, then the repair of the Ariston gas water heater or the repair of the Junkers gas water heater, as well as any other water heaters, cannot be carried out with your own hands. A qualified technician should fix the breakdown. In other cases, you can try to cope on your own.
For normal operation of most of the components inside the unit, a stable power supply is required. Therefore, if malfunctions of the gas column appear in the form of failures, which are characterized by the fact that the flame does not ignite or goes out during the operation of the device, then a possible cause of such a malfunction may be lack of current power supplied from batteries.
This does not apply to units without electronic components in the design. For example, you will not find it in the Neva 3208 unit, which you want to repair, or when repairing an old model Astra gas water heater.
Often, when repairing the Oasis gas water heater, as well as the Junkers gas water heater, users are often misled by the fact that the LCD display is lit and there seems to be no power supply problem. But it should be borne in mind that for ignition, a sufficient charge is required in order for a spark to form in the glow plug.In addition, the electronic unit also needs power to transmit it to the solenoid valve in order to keep it in the "open" state. Therefore, if the batteries are already dead, then there may not be enough power to ensure the operation of these modules.
In the instructions for the water heater, the manufacturer indicates the operating time of one set of batteries. As you might guess, this value is approximate, and it depends on the quality of the batteries used. When buying batteries, you should pay attention to the markings applied to them. For long-term operation of the gas column, it is recommended to choose batteries marked LR20 ... This means that they are alkaline, that is, alkaline.
Cheaper ones, labeled R20, fail very quickly and cannot cope with constant load. Lithium CR20 batteries are ideal. Their main difference from alkaline ones is their high capacity, stable generated current, long-term operation, which is several times longer than the service life of LR20 batteries. The only drawback of CR20 batteries is their high price ... So buying LR20 alkaline batteries will be the right choice in terms of economy and cost effectiveness.
It should be remembered: never buy batteries in street kiosks, and even more so in the market from trays. This recommendation especially applies to the winter period, since the batteries lose their charge from the cold.
Such a do-it-yourself gas water heater repair, like replacing batteries, is the only way to troubleshoot problems that does not require removing the external casing of the unit. To repair the geysers Vector, Oasis and any other in case of other malfunctions, you will need to open the device. To start removing the casing from the water heater, it is necessary to shut off all the water and gas supply valves, then do the following (for example, the Neva 5611 water heater is taken, which we will disassemble on the table).
At the very beginning, you need to remove control knobs from the unit panel. They are not fixed in any way, so it is enough to pull them towards you. If it is not possible to freely pull out the handle, then you can use some flat object, gently prying it underneath so as not to break. The Oasis geyser (Turbo series) also has a third "winter-summer" handle located in the center.
There is 1 screw under one of the heater handles, which must be unscrewed. The presence of a screw under the handle is observed only in the Neva 5611, while in the Neva 4510 and Neva 4610 it is not.
A display is fixed on the casing of the device, to which 4 wires are connected. A pair of red and black leads is connected to the control module, and a black and blue pair is connected to the temperature sensor. For convenient disconnection at the ends of the wires, there are connector blocks that can be easily opened. Disconnect all 4 wires by pressing the small lock on the block (If this is not done, the block may break).
Next, you need to unscrew the screws from the body that hold the lining.
After that, put your fingers under the casing (be careful, you can cut yourself) and slightly pull it towards you so that the guide pins located on the unit body come out of the slots.
The cover is then pushed upwards, after which it must be removed from the hooks. Holes for the hooks are visible in the figure below.
The following illustration shows the holes for the centering studs and the locations for the mounting screws (blue arrow).
Installing the cladding in its original place is in the reverse order.
Most often, gas water heaters are repaired due to a malfunction of the water block. Its work consists in the fact that under the influence of liquid pressure, the membrane inside it, bending, transfers movement to the rod, and it already moves the pusher of the gas unit.As a result, the spring valve opens and the power supply to the control unit is turned on. Therefore, if the water unit is faulty, the device will not start.
The breakdown of the water block can be identified by outward signs .
If you opened the water supply, and the rod pressing the switch plate remained stationary (shown in the figure with a blue arrow), this means that the membrane located inside the main component of the water unit - the “frog” - is damaged.
Jamming of the stem may be due to sticking.
A leak is possible in the place where the gas and water unit are connected, or liquid seepage from under the control valve (shown by red arrows).
If you notice at least one sign, then the node will need to be removed and repaired. The water unit can only be removed together with the gas module, since they are a single structure. This can be done in the following way:
after you have made sure that the gas valve on the pipe is turned into a closed state, you can disconnect the supply hose (a);
similarly, with the water supply turned off, the nut on the pipe of the water block is unscrewed (b);
then, using a wrench, it is necessary to unscrew the nut that connects the water block to the heat exchanger (c);
disconnect the connector block (d) on the conductors connecting the solenoid valve to the control module;
in the same way, the wires (d) are disconnected, going to the switch;
using a screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws (e) securing the branch pipe to the water-gas unit, through which the fuel is supplied to the burner manifold;
after unscrewing the fasteners, the entire unit can be easily removed from the device.
Next, you need to disassemble the gas-water module itself.
Repair of the gas water heater Neva 3208 regarding the “frog” malfunction is similar and intuitive, although the internal view of the unit is slightly different. The Neva 4511 gas water heater can also be disassembled, repairing it with your own hands is quite feasible.
When is the repair done? chinese gas water heater , the size of the water node is always surprising. It is quite small in size, and to disassemble the "frog", you will need to unscrew only 4 screws.
Repair of the gas column heat exchanger will be required in the event of:
if insufficient water pressure is noticed at the outlet of the gas column;
weak heating of the liquid;
noises are heard during the operation of the unit.
The reason for all this may be scale formed on the inner surface of the copper tubes. Therefore, the heat exchange and the throughput of the latter are reduced. In addition, if the unit has not been serviced for a long time, there may accumulate between the plates of the heat exchanger. dust and soot , which also interferes with the water heating process. The heat exchanger is removed simply.
Before repairing the unit, it must be disconnected from the main water supply and the water must be drained from the heat exchanger by unscrewing the plug under the water section.
Then you will need to disconnect the water supply and drain pipes (shown with green arrows in the figure).
Loosen the screws (blue arrows) and remove the fixing plate (yellow pointer).
Repair of heat exchangers of any gas columns begins with flushing them under a strong stream of water to remove dust and other contaminants. After that, it is recommended to immerse it in water for half an hour with the addition of a detergent, for example, for dishes.
Cleaning of the assembly continues with a small, non-rigid brush, after which it is rinsed again under running water. The water heater pipes clogged with limescale are cleaned with a strong flow of water in the opposite direction. If the scale is not completely removed, then you will have to pour it into the tubes special acid solution ... You can use ordinary citric acid to prepare it. You need to take 100 g of acid and dilute it in 1 liter of water heated to 40C.This solution is poured into the pipe of the heat exchanger until it appears from the other. The reaction will be immediately visible as foam coming out. The poured solution is left for 15 minutes, after which all channels of the unit are well rinsed under the pressure of water.
If you are not satisfied with the result, you can repeat the descaling process.
Thus, the heat exchanger of the Neva Lux, Dion, KGI, Selena gas column, as well as the Neva transit gas column is flushed.
The reason that the water heater turns off after starting may be incorrect installation. The diagram below shows how to install the unit.
The following figures show common mistakes when installing a water heater.
The chimney is inserted so that it blocks the ventilation shaft.
There is another ventilation hole on the same level as the chimney.
A kitchen hood is built into the channel for the gadfly of combustion products from the apparatus.
Such installation methods disrupt the normal traction, as a result of which the operation of the water heater becomes incorrect, and in some cases, impossible.
VIDEO
Any professional will tell you: "a gas water heater is a potentially dangerous equipment, so you can only entrust its maintenance and repair to a qualified specialist." However, the ability to understand which element is out of order and what it can lead to will definitely not hurt.
DIY geyser repair
In addition, you can deal with the elimination of some malfunctions that do not specifically affect gas equipment on your own. Read the description of typical breakdowns and recommendations for action in case of their detection.
Gas column device
Equipment can stop igniting for several reasons.
Gas column device
First of all, you must make sure that the igniter is working properly. If it does not light up, contact your gas service. A specialist will clean or replace the failed element. You cannot touch it yourself - it is dangerous.
Gas column device diagram
In modern units with electronic ignition, in the absence of ignition, gas ceases to be supplied - it is cut off by a valve. The user becomes aware of this through the corresponding indicator. In some situations, this problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery. Check this point in the instructions. If the manufacturer does not give such recommendations, it is better to immediately contact the gas service or a third-party repair service.
At one point, the column may not light up
Battery pack for igniting the column
The column will not light up if there is no ventilation draft. To check the level of traction, we bring a strip of paper to the ventilation grill. If the leaf does not change its position, or if it does not change it sufficiently, there are obvious problems with craving. In apartment buildings, utilities are engaged in cleaning ventilation wells - contact them. You can do this yourself with the help of a metal brush tied to a flexible wire (hose, etc.) of a suitable length, however, utilities usually do not approve of such unauthorized actions.
Burners often fail to fire due to diaphragm wear. This structural element deforms rather quickly, the burner starting mechanism becomes less sensitive and does not work when the water is turned on. Even in expensive heaters, membranes wear out in 5-8 years - unfortunately, nothing can be done about this.
Often burners do not fire due to diaphragm wear
To check, turn on the water to maximum. If the column turns on with a strong pressure, the problem is definitely in the membrane. Replacement of this element can be done on your own.
To do this, do the following:
unscrew the fastening nuts from the water unit (usually there are 2 of them);
unscrew the fastening screws, due to which the water unit is held in the gas unit (usually 3 screws);
detach the halves of the assembly and you will see a rubber membrane. If it is not flat but noticeably deformed, replace it. To do this, buy a similar product from a specialized store. If possible, give preference to a silicone membrane - it will last much longer than its simple rubber counterpart.
At the same stage, you can check the condition of the filter of the water intake. If it is clogged, clean it or replace it with a new one. To clean, simply unscrew the nut from the water supply side, take out the mesh and rinse it or replace it with a new one, depending on the condition.
If the heater turns on but goes out, the problem in most situations is the bimetallic temperature sensor needed to protect the equipment from overheating. Also, due to malfunctions of this element, the heater may not turn on at all.
This problem has 2 main development scenarios.
According to the first scenario, the burner lights up properly, the equipment functions for some time without any complaints, and then goes out and for some time does not show any signs of life - attempts to ignite the heater do not lead to anything. Usually, after 20-30 minutes, the equipment turns on again and history repeats itself. This is due to the excessive sensitivity of the sensor. As a rule, it is "congenital", i.e. this is a factory defect. It is extremely difficult to do something on your own. It is better to immediately contact the manufacturer's service for warranty repairs.
According to the second scenario, the column may turn off randomly, and sometimes not turn on at all. The reason usually lies in the wear of the insulating material of the conductor of the bimetallic sensor. There is a banal short circuit to the case, as a result of which the safety valve is triggered, and the column begins to behave abnormally.
Contact the service center for warranty repair
It makes no sense to turn to gas workers - the defect is clearly not a "gas" one. You also don't need to try to get rid of the breakdown yourself - you can only break the unit. Contact the service center for warranty repairs.
Water comes out with a weak pressure
Most often this happens due to clogging of the column heat exchanger with scale. Prolonged “idle” ignitions of the igniter are usually the cause of clogging. The device heats up the heat exchanger to a temperature sufficient to cause the remaining moisture to evaporate.
There is no water flow, scale is not washed out of the heat exchanger, until the next turn on of the equipment, it sets, as a result of which the column ceases to function normally. Cleaning the heat exchanger usually saves. In advanced cases, it has to be changed.
For replacement, it is better to immediately contact the professionals, but you can handle the cleaning on your own. Prepare screwdrivers, rubber hose, open-end wrenches and paranite gaskets. Purchase a descaling mixture from a hardware store. Usually it is called that - antiscale. A more budgetary option is rinsing with vinegar essence. Work in this order.
First step. Remove the fittings and the casing from the heater one after the other.
Second step. Turn off the inlet water and open a hot water tap, preferably as close as possible from the column.
Step three. Unscrew the water supply pipe from the heat exchanger and then move it to the side. After unscrewing the nut, the column heat exchanger will begin to release water. In total, about 1 liter of it will be drained.
Fourth step. Place a hose of a suitable diameter on the inlet of the heat exchanger and lift it just above the heater. Insert an ordinary funnel into the fixed hose and start slowly pouring in the prepared solution in a thin stream (instructions for preparation are given on the package). There is no need to rush. If you pour it too quickly, the antikipine will simply push it back out, and you are unlikely to like it.
Flushing the gas column heat exchanger
Leave the cleaning agent in the heat exchanger of the heater for 2-3 hours (usually the required time is indicated on the packaging).
Place a suitable container under the water tap and carefully re-feed the heater. Observe what comes out of the hose. Was there a lot of slurry coming out, and then the head returned to normal? Things are good. Otherwise, flushing will have to be repeated. Usually, the need for re-rinsing arises only when using vinegar essence. Anti-scale in most situations copes with the first time.
In such a situation, it is better to immediately contact a professional. He will perform the adjustment, which is extremely difficult to make without knowledge of the matter, and the column will start working normally.
You can find out the reasons for the appearance of such a malfunction for the general development. There are two main reasons:
the gas comes under too much pressure. The heater ignites too actively, which leads to the breakdown of the fire;
the gas flow is too low. Air enters the heater burner, resulting in a microexplosion, which is interpreted by human hearing as cotton.
The column does not heat up the water sufficiently
This usually happens due to the insufficient power of the gas column. The user begins to demand more from the equipment than it can do.
There are two options for solving the problem:
we stop abusing and do not open hot taps at the same time at all points of the water intake;
buying a more powerful speaker.
Also, inadequate heating of the liquid can occur due to the clogging of the burner. Look at the color of the fire. Under normal conditions, it is bluish. If the flame turns yellow, contact the gas industry. Such repairs can only be entrusted to a professional, tk. this is already a "gas" breakdown.
The problem is more than serious. Don't even think about any hand-made repairs. Turn off the heater, turn off the gas cock, ensure that there is adequate ventilation at all times, and call the gas service immediately. The arriving team will assess the problem and take appropriate action.
Now you know the main malfunctions of the gas column, and you know how to behave when they appear. The main thing is to remember about safety. There is no need to try to fix breakdowns for which you do not have enough qualifications - this can lead to irreparable consequences.
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