In detail: DIY golf 2 steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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The steering rack is leaking on my car (as they said at the service station).
I have golf 2 1991. There is a hydraulic booster. I got tired of adding oil to it. Now the question is: If I find a used steering rack, I'm looking for it now, do I need a hydraulic booster that will fit it or mine will suit it?
Why not restore it?
A friend restored it, drove up to 10t, yesterday it flowed like a stream. Now in search of a new one, before that I restored it twice.
I also heard that restoration is not the best option!
If you want the rail to run for a long time after restoration, then the budget for this manipulation should exceed 50% of the cost of the new one, because in a good workshop all rubber-metal parts, bearings, bushings must be replaced, the rail must be polished, the spool holder must be replaced, and possibly the spool itself. If you count all this, then only the body, tubes and bolts with nuts will remain intact. If some uncle in the garage replaced only the oil seals and possibly the bushings, then the rail may not run even 10 thousand, because there are burrs or wear on the shaft itself, which will lead to smudges. To buy a used one as a lottery, it is better to take a Turkish one or, in extreme cases, a Chinese one (by the way, it fits with an amulet) and calmly drive 60,80,100 thousand (as lucky) - this is my opinion!
Video (click to play). |
Bought about 5 years ago, it seems Turkish for Golf 2, even 10 t.km did not pass. I threw it away.
You need to disassemble and look. 70% can be repaired.
In the worst case, change the odometer.
What is an odometer? And how to repair it? The same principle?
The odometer is exactly the mileage counter (the numbers that you see on the speedometer).
you disassemble and see what exactly is broken and does not work.
It is only the speedometer - this is when the mechanical counting, and the odometer - when the electric counting and it is hard to pick up and repair. and the odometer is easier. if it doesn't work, it's basically where there is no contact or the connector is broken.
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Good day. Today on our agenda: Steering rack. Replacing the steering rack. Golf 2
The steering rack is one of the most important mechanisms in a car. Your safety and the safety of other road users depend on its condition. Always pay special attention to the condition of the steering rack boots, which cover the rack stem (toothed rack). The resource of the steering rack depends on their condition, since they do not allow water and dirt to enter the mechanism.
But any mechanism has its own resource. Typical malfunctions of the steering rack: large free play of the steering wheel, knocking in the rack and sticking in the rack (biting). And therefore, sooner or later, the steering rack will become unusable and will require repair or replacement.
Removing the steering rack on a golf 2 car will not take much of your time. Provided that your hands `` grow out of the right place '', you can do it within an hour. The set of tools is minimal. Installing the rail in place takes the same amount of time.
So to the point. I will not describe the sequence of actions, you just watch the video and everything will become clear to you.
removal of the rail. do it yourself steering rack repair video Golf 2 / golf 2. Hello everyone. Today we have a video golf 2 on the legendary car Golf 2 / GOLF. This task is not difficult and can be completed within one hour. The set of tools is minimal. Watching the video:
Can you please tell me, I have a pass b4, removed the front beam, unscrewed 4 bolts from the steering rack, and when screwed back the steering rack went to the side somewhere by 3 cm, how to align it so that the bolts coincide? thanks in advance
Thank you very much, they helped a lot. The sleeve flew, knocks, we will put another one.
Good day! I have a volkswagen jetta 1989 when I drive on an uneven road, for example, in my own yard, the wheel to touch small stones, the steering wheel is awful, but I don’t have a power steering, if you know you can advise what exactly needs to be changed, Thank you!
Fucking yourself, you screwed up on the tips)) someone offended you?)))
DO NOT twist the bolts securing the rail to the subframe. they are slotted. it is necessary to unscrew the nuts from the top, not the bolts.
Steering rack. Replacing the steering rack Golf 2
master pancake, twenty-first century and he knocks out the tips with a hammer.
The reliability and controllability of the car is a guarantee of safety for road users. Only a serviceable steering mechanism ensures reliable and safe control of any type of transport.
The steering rack is a mechanism that transfers the direction of movement to the wheels by turning the steering wheel, consists of three main parts:
- toothed shaft
- bearing bush
- spool mechanism.
When operating a car, some elements of this mechanism wear out in the first place, it can be:
- Hydro-barrier rings
- Oil seals (rubber seals)
- Support sleeves
These parts are included in the VW steering rack repair kit.
Although the appearance of the parts of mechanisms with and without power steering, as well as different Volkswagen models, is different, their purpose and sequence will be the same both when repairing a Volkswagen Passat steering rack, and when repairing a Volkswagen Golf steering rack, that is, the damaged elements are replaced.
The driver should pay attention to the operation of this unit, and at the first signs of a breakdown, diagnose and repair or adjust the Volkswagen steering rack.
- Steering knock and vibration - when driving on an uneven surface, the driver feels a blow to the steering wheel. This is a sign of wear on the shaft support bushings and the teeth of the gear pair.
- Backlash - occurs when the distributor rod or worm gear teeth are worn.
- Tight rotation, noise and grinding when turning the steering wheel - signs of rack corrosion or mechanical damage.
- Leaking oil from the reservoir - indicates the wear of the anthers - protective rubber gaskets. Without protection from dust, water and friction, pivot joints wear out, and repairing a Volkswagen T4 steering rack is much more expensive.
- Darkening of the fluid, the presence of debris in the power steering reservoir.
Overloading the car, abrupt turning of the steering wheel, hitting the wheels in pits and potholes lead to damage to the chassis of the car. From shock and vibration, there is a violation of the integrity and configuration of parts. The fastenings of the elements are weakened, the tightness of the system is broken.
Twisting the steering wheel to extreme positions at high speed increases the critical loads on the control system and leads to its rapid wear and urgent repair of the Volkswagen Bor steering rack. The use of low-quality oils and spare parts accelerates the development of the resource of parts.
Critical wear of parts occurs:
- If there is insufficient lubrication in the system, due to friction, the teeth are worn out and do not provide proper adhesion during operation.
- In case of violation of its tightness. In this case, dirt, dust gets into the mechanism, which accelerates the erasure of parts, and water, which causes corrosion of metal elements.
- With the timely repair of the Volkswagen T5 steering rack, it is possible to preserve the hydraulic mechanisms that have not failed, thereby avoiding unnecessary costs.
Accurate diagnostics of malfunctions is carried out on special equipment in a car service.
After an external examination, the following operations are performed:
- Dismantling the mechanism
- Inspection and troubleshooting of parts
- Disassembly of the unit, primary cleaning of parts from dirt
- Assessment of the condition of the body, shaft, oil seals, O-rings.
When diagnosing, they check the integrity of parts, the presence of corrosion and deformation of the shaft, wear of teeth and bearings.
The video shows how qualified specialists carry out diagnostics and repairs:
During operation, the control mechanism of the car can loosen from vibration and other loads. The fastenings of the parts are loosened, this leads to disruptions in its operation and can cause more serious damage. In this case, there is a backlash and vibration of the steering wheel, the smoothness of rotation is lost.
To eliminate this problem, the Volkswagen steering rack is adjusted at stations specializing in chassis maintenance. For this, the mechanism design provides external adjusting screw.
This operation is usually performed by two people. To access the adjusting screw, the car is lifted onto an overpass or placed over a pit. The position of the wheels is strictly straight, the car must be securely fixed.
Using a special hexagon, the adjusting screw is tightened or, on the contrary, slightly loosened, checking the result by turning the steering wheel. The backlash should not be more than 10 degrees. After adjustment on the pit, check the operation of the unit in motion at low speed. If the adjustment does not work, you need to check the serviceability of the mechanism.
Repair of the Volkswagen Polo steering rack should be carried out in a special room with equipment and tools that will allow you to work quickly, efficiently and without the risk of damaging other parts of the car and serviceable parts.
- The unit removed from the car is placed in a workbench.
- Unscrew the rods, remove the spool plug.
- Unscrew the spool nut and clamp nut.
- The spring and stem clamp are removed.
- The relative position of the valve and the housing is noted.
- Remove the retaining ring, take out the distributor.
- Remove the stem and back support from the body.
- The left stem oil seal is removed with a special tool.
- Parts are thoroughly cleaned of wear products, oil and dirt using detergent solutions.
- Degraded parts are replaced with new ones.
- The stock is ground on a lathe.
- The assembly process begins with pressing the left stem gland into the rack housing with a special tool.
- A special grease is applied to the comb of the stem and the teeth of the distributor before installation.
- The prepared parts are installed in the steering gear housing.
- The bearing is pressed in next, after it the oil seal, put on the retaining ring.
- The rod clamp, the spring is installed, everything is tightened with the clamp nut.
- The spool nut is tightened, the spool plug filled with grease is screwed into place.
- Put the seal on the back support.
- The oil seal is pressed into the rear support, after which it is installed on the steering rack.
- The position of the rear support is fixed with a retaining ring.
- The quality of work and the tightness of the assembled unit are checked at the stand.
With slight corrosion, the shaft of the mechanism is restored by the method of spraying with chromium, followed by grinding.
In case of significant damage and wear of the gears of the toothed shaft and housing, a complete replacement of the Volkswagen steering rack is performed.
Worn out parts must be changed, as well as rubber gaskets and oil seals, after which the mechanism is assembled and installed on the car.
After assembling the unit, fresh process fluids are poured into a serviceable system, the system is pumped.
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
- there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
- increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
- there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
- there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
- power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
- toothed shaft;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
- Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
- Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
- Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.
- Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
- Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
- Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
- Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
- Unscrew the rack from the tie rods using a special flat head screwdriver.
- Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
- Unscrew the lock nut.
- Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
- Pull out the lower oil seal.
- Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
- Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
- Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
- Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
- Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
- Place the rail into the enclosure.
- Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
- Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
- Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
- Place the steering rack in the middle position.
- Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
- Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
- Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
- Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do "camber-toe" after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
Replacing the tips of the steering rods
The factory is fitted with a non-adjustable left steering link. Toe is regulated only by the right steering rod.
- unscrew the nut that secures the tip to the steering knuckle;
- using a puller, press out the ball pin of the tie rod end from the swivel arm;
- unscrew the lock nut of the tie rod end, holding the tie rod by the hexagonal belt;
- mark the position of the tip on the steering rod. Then, after installing a new tip, you will not need to adjust the convergence;
- unscrew the old tip and put a new one according to the mark applied during disassembly;
- install the tip into the swivel arm and tap it lightly from above;
- install a new self-locking nut on the ball pin of the tip;
- tightening torque of the nut 35 Nm. Tightening torque of the tip locknut 50 Nm;
During repairs, the left unregulated steering rod is replaced with an adjustable one. If a hydraulic power steering is installed, the steering gear must be removed to replace the steering linkage. We recommend that you entrust this work to a car service.
- hang out the front of the car;
- remove the steering gear cover fixing ring and pull off the cover;
- put the steering rack in the middle position;
Rice. 110. Steering gear (3): 1 - steering gear fastening clamp; 2 - rubber support; 4 - protective cover; 5 - fixing ring; 6 - steering rod; 7 - steering propeller shaft; 8 - protective casing of the driveshaft; a - measured before installing a new steering rod
- measure the distance between the middle of the ball joint of the tip and the inner joint of the rod (fig. 110);
- remove the tie rod end from the swivel arm, as already described;
- unscrew the lock nut of the steering rod inner hinge and turn the steering rod out of the steering mechanism;
- the cover can now be removed and, if necessary, replaced.
Left: Set the tie rod to 379 mm or adjust the old tie rod.
Right: adjust the length of the new tie rod to the old one.
Tighten the inner pivot locknuts on both tie rods.
- install the ends of the tie rods as described above;
- be sure to check the convergence.
Steering gear adjustment
Hang the front of the car. Put the wheels straight.
Rice. 111. Rear view of the steering gear: 1 - steering gear cover; 2 - clamp for fastening the steering mechanism to the subframe; 4 - stretcher; a key is put on the adjusting bolt (3) of the steering gear
Carefully turn the adjusting bolt 20 ° (fig. 111).
Lower the vehicle and test drive.
If the steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, then slightly loosen the adjusting bolt.
If the backlash has not disappeared, then tighten the bolt a little more.
Removing wheel bearings
In the old design, a click could be heard when driving with the wheels fully turned. It is caused by a slight movement of the bearing in the steering knuckle. To eliminate the click, grease the bearing seat with molybdenum disulfide grease.
In the new design, the outer ring of the bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, and the hub is pressed onto the inner ring. Entrust the fitting and extrusion of the bearing to a car service.
- remove the wheel. Remove the complete brake caliper (see the appropriate section) without disconnecting the brake hose and hang it on the body;
- unscrew the protective cover of the brake disc;
- disconnect the steering rod from the swivel arm;
- mark the position of the bolts securing the telescopic strut to the steering knuckle;
- unscrew the bolts and separate the parts. Remove the steering knuckle;
- on vehicles with ABS, unscrew the wheel speed sensor rotor;
- remove both retaining rings of the bearing. Press out the bearing;
- install the outer circlip and press the bearing into it until it stops;
- when pressing in the hub, the inner bearing ring must rest on something. Otherwise, the bearing could be damaged.
We remove the steering rack golf 2 and the trade wind b 3. Removing the steering rack on both cars is almost the same.
Steering rack. Replacing the steering rack Golf 2 / golf 2. Hello everyone. Today we have a video on the removal of the steering rack on the legendary Golf 2 / GOLF car. This task is not difficult and can be completed within one hour. The set of tools is minimal. Watching the video: Our site:
Expensive Car knot DMF Dual Mass Flywheel. What Kills a given node, and How YOU kill a given machine node. THANK YOU for All video materials are the property of the author. Link to the channel is required. Production Music courtesy of Epidemic Sound!
how 50 likes will be collected for this video! I'll show you part 2! Part 2 is already filmed and ready! " put the likes!
Let's figure out where a short circuit can come from on the golf 2 steering valve. Let's also see how to replace the ignition contacts. Well, one more little thing. If the video helped or even liked it, like it and subscribe to the channel.
Why does the buzzer sound on the trade wind b3, golf 2 Gentlemen, if you have questions about the video, then write comments, I will answer.
Hello to all! In the video, the whole process of replacing the steering rod at home.
For questions and in the group on megan
I have long wanted myself a euro golf handles and was thinking of adding nine handles. I climbed into the Internet and was surprised to find that the Chinese have already done everything and there is nothing to be wise! We coat everything with Litol and Sealant to last longer. Now it's been about a week after I put them on. They feel good.I ride in a taxi almost every day and before, I constantly had to help clients open the door, otherwise there was a threat of tearing out the door with its hinges. Now everything is gorgeous, I hope everything will continue this way. No matter how winter is approaching! :)
My Gosha's problems were piling up. At first, nothing boded trouble: it was necessary to replace the rear arch, weld the rear skirt, tint the sills. Then holes were found in the bottom and front spars. Further more: the clutch disc began to rustle, a play appeared in the steering rack. And finally - severe corrosion of the side members in the engine compartment, replacement of all engine mounts. In short, complete.
It is necessary to remove the tank, fuel lines, disassemble the interior, disassemble the entire front, remove the engine, remove the steering rack. Give the body to be repaired, and deal with the clutch and rail.
There is a garage with a pit, some tools, jacks. The hardest part is removing the engine. Buck used to take off, changed the clutch himself on another car.
I asked those who did it, they say you can't take it off without a hoist, you need to take it out through the top, others - roll back the calode under the engine and body.
Maybe someone is familiar with this procedure? What is the best way to do this?
In my garage, for the 2nd day, they are sorting out the Audi 80 B3 engine from two, one is being assembled. Already last night they put it in the back, but something did not work, I think today they are collecting
Find out how the engine was taken out.
, maybe what will help infa, if people are needed write to get (put) we will help
You take a 3 meter pipe or timber, tie a rope or chain to the engine's ears and several people lift it on the sides of the car.
With a friend (Den26smy) I removed the engine from his second golf course, the front panel was not disassembled, the box was disconnected and taken out through the top, Misha says. They immediately tied it up to the pipe and then hooked it up with a winch and pulled it out, filmed it for about an hour. If you write something in HP, I will give you the number, he will tell you everything in detail.
There is no winch, you need to take it somewhere, or you will have to buy it
Yes, just a pipe of 3-3.5 meters and we will pull it out for you, and then we will install, why waste money. Or if there is a block, it will do too.
He alone took it out, probably in parts
Thanks to everyone who responded, we will think.
I did this, took it apart in front of the whole, put a tire under the pallet and just gently rolled the body away :) In fact, everything is very simple :)
Normal option, there is one assistant and that's it
To remove the headlights, bumper, grille, front panel, radiator, fans, what else, I don’t remember, isn’t much? Is it not easier to lift it up? The garage seems to be behind the city hospital, mine is not far away, we will help
We were so annoying in the past. Like a dentist: once - that's all.))
In the topic "looking for repair specialists" I asked about the rail. I went there today, I ask.
Me: Repair the golf2 rail without gu
HE: Go buy a used one. and we will deliver to you.
Me: So I have to grind the plastic sleeve and change it.
HE: So you still need to remove the rail.
Not armed with original numbers, went to the car market for the support of the internal combustion engine and gearbox. Out of 3, one correct was given the second, a little not the same, but it will get up, the third will not fit at all, most likely. Tomorrow I'll go to change
Message changed: alien (24 June 2013 - 14:17)
If you need help removing the engine, I can help with my own hands.
Yesterday the repairer examined the car in more detail, as a result - the engine does not need to be removed. Said podvarit without removing. But the box must be removed, and the steering rack, and the engine mounts must also be changed.
Plans: Remove the box, change the support, and the rail, clutch, collect everything. Then change the rest of the supports.
To date, the interior has been disassembled, the subframe has been removed, the levers have been unscrewed from it, the steering rack has been removed. The scope of work on the side members has been determined. I went to the car market, I could not find the rail. Tomorrow I'll go again (not all the stalls were open). Today the SB will arrive for the levers, I will hand over to the SMAK for a replacement. I bought the engine mounts, but there is a problem - to unscrew the old ones from the subframe.
If you need help removing the engine, I can help with my own hands.
Can you help to remove the box? Have you ever done this?
If you need help removing the engine, I can help with my own hands.
Can you help to remove the box? Have you ever done this?
I just watched, so it's better to take someone who fumbles with you!
I am ready to make an effort, but within reason, wisely!
I filmed, but on a different car, and here you see "reverse clutch".
Let's figure it out, we just need someone else
I bought a used one. steering rack. I collected one of the two. I'll try to restore the old one. It remains to repress the silent in the levers, wait for the car from the body repair and change the clutch.
Repairing a steering rack or power steering gear, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a failure of the steering, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to repair a steering rack.
Since the rack is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the unevenness of the roads, impacts when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a bit and needs proper care.
- there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beat in the steering wheel;
- the steering wheel starts to spin harder;
- when the steering wheel was rotated, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
- power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
- unusual sounds appeared when the power steering was working.
Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not very different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite difficult - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.
A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, O-rings, bushings, as well as a corrugation, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. In the tool box you should have: a special octagonal wrench, bearing removers and pliers for mounting a circlip. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on an overpass or inspection ditch.
This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the steering rack gear shaft.
- Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the tie rods from the steering rack
- Unscrew the lower gear shaft plug.
- Unscrew the lock nut.
- Remove the circlip and drive out the shaft.
- Remove the lower oil seal
- Remove the retaining pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
- Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
- Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic bushing from it.
- Pull out the oil seal, plug, remove the spring, the clamping mechanism.
- Apply special grease and place the inner oil seal (spring down).
- Place the rail in the housing.
- Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
- Install the plug, remembering to fix it with wire.
- Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
- Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (after having lubricated it).
- Install the upper oil seal, install the circlip.
- Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
- Install and tighten the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug.
Further, the installation proceeds in the reverse order.
As seen, DIY steering rack repair it is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with repairs in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks, which are much more common than their modern counterpart, the electronic steering rack, are subject to self-repair. The latter needs a special setting, which is better to entrust to professionals.
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