Do-it-yourself repair of things

Alteration of clothes, more than ever, is very relevant. Of course, a lady's fashion is changeable. Today it is fashionable to wear one, but tomorrow it will no longer be relevant. In addition, no one will argue that fashion is a cyclical thing. So, for example, they used to buy jeans with a low waist, and more recently it has become fashionable to wear with an inflated one, in which women of fashion of the 80s of the 20th century flaunted. And there are many examples like this.

In this regard, the alteration of clothes does not seem so ridiculous, because every fashionista faced the problem - "Where to put things that are out of fashion?" And how many of these things do we and our mothers keep in closets, chests and boxes? I think that almost everyone will answer - quite a lot.

Here are some of the best ideas for renewing your old wardrobe. In addition to the fact that it is useful and beneficial, you can be sure that you will become the owner of a designer, exclusive item, because the likelihood of meeting a person in the same top or T-shirt is extremely small.

So, there are tons of ideas that can transform old clothes into trendy and modern ones. For example, what can you do with an old sweater or blouse that has been gathering dust in your closet for a long time? You can transform them with the help of various overhead fittings or patches, which are very easy to do with your own hands. A couple of easy movements, a little wasted time, and now you are already the happy owner of a new, fashionable, and also exclusive sweater.

Everyone has an old leather jacket in their closet that has become frayed over time and has lost its original luster. On the basis of this jacket, you can make a parka jacket, which is extremely popular now. With jackets, in general, a different story, it is very easy to bring them back to life. So, one of the easiest ways is painting. To do this, dip the bottom of your jacket briefly in bleach. Voila and the new jacket is ready. It will perfectly suit the boho style and will look fashionable with any summer dress. Also, don't be afraid to cut up old things. Take scissors and boldly cut the sleeves of your jacket, here you have a new vest for you. Make the sleeves asymmetrical, decorate the jacket with elegant patches, and you are already the owner of the most fashionable jacket in town.

It is also very easy to update old things and make them fashionable with patches, rhinestones, beads. Patches can be purchased in specialized stores, cut out of old things yourself, or create your own emblems. With accessories, you can create the style that you prefer - rock, glam or punk.

Over time, shoes also become unclaimed and live out their days in boxes or, even worse, in a trash heap. So, for example, it is quite easy to make stylish shoes from old shoes and ballet flats. They can be inlaid with various stones and sparkles, which always looks fashionable and even more original, painted or using the decoupage technique.

I liked the idea of ​​giving the usual gray scarf elegance, grace and charm. To do this, cut off a quality part of the scarf and sew on lace or guipure. Choose a contrasting color for the finish or to match the product. From a nondescript scarf, you will get an exclusive, elegant thing. You can also knit a part of the scarf with your own hands.

Great idea for old gloves (babukatorium, flickr). Please your daughter, make unusual, bright and elegant gloves with your favorite fairytale hero.

To lengthen the sleeves, use ready-made and self-knitted lace, braid, ribbons, cuffs from old shirts.

In general, the most important thing is, do not be afraid to experiment, fantasize with your things. After all, changing clothes is a very exciting process.But, plunging into creativity, remember the words of the great Coco Chanel - "Fashion as architecture: the main thing is proportions."

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To a darned place was almost imperceptible, they select threads in color, thickness and quality that would correspond to the fabrics being repaired. You can pull the threads out of the hem at the seams. Darning stitches should first run along the fabric (warp) and then crosswise (weft). Start off darning it must be in a strong place, otherwise it will quickly collapse. The stitches should be fine. With a transverse passage, the needle is passed under the thread, then over it. At the edges of the darning, the thread is not pulled too tight so that the shrinkage of the thread does not tighten the fabric during washing. The rows of threads should fit snugly against one another. You can also darn on a sewing machine, which has a special device.

If the fabric is not frayed through, but only very thinned, darn along the threads, without making cross stitches.

If a piece of fabric is accidentally snatched out and it is torn at the same time along the weft and the warp, then it is necessary to darn as two separate tears.

Patches must be of the same material from which the item is sewn, or of a similar quality and color. Before applying the patch, the material must be washed and ironed so that it does not sit down later. The patch is applied to the place to be repaired, observing the direction of the weft and warp threads. If it needs to be placed near the seam, then the seam is paired, and the patch is brought into this seam with one side. Then it is swept in and after that, bending the edges, sewn with a blind seam from the front side and from the wrong side. Pull out the outline. On a rectangular patch, an oblique incision is made at all four corners to a depth of 0.5 cm. If the patch is not visible, it can be sewn on with a typewriter.

On the diaper fabrics, the patch is applied on top. To do this, the damaged area is outlined, adding 0.5 cm to each side, and the corresponding patch is cut out. Bending the edges inward, sew. On variegated materials, the pattern should match the pattern of the item being repaired.

Sheets and towels can be repaired as needed. The sheets are often wiped in the middle. They are repaired like this: they are cut in the middle along the warp thread and both halves are attached with edges, and the edges are trimmed.

Towels tend to wear out faster at the ends. The towel is cut in the middle and sewn back with worn ends. The edges of the towels are trimmed.

Jackets and trousers sometimes require minor repairs: the cuffs of sleeves and trousers wear out. The sleeve cuffs are repaired as follows: the lining is stripped off and the hem of the sleeve is carefully cut off. The ends of the sleeves and the cut strip are ironed out, the strip is sewn on, then folded inward, the lining is sewn on and ironed again. On trousers, the edges are repaired in the same way. If the braid of the trousers is frayed, it is replaced with a new one. The trouser tape has a thickened edge, which should protrude from the edge of the trousers along its entire width. If, along with the braid, the edge of the trousers themselves is rubbed, then first the bent edge of the bottom of the trousers is stripped off, cleaned of dirt and ironed. Worn places are plastered and the trousers are folded 3-5 mm above the stitching line. A new braid is sewn along the edge.

If children's trousers are worn in the back to the holes, then in order to apply a patch, they are ripped apart at the seams. Then the rectangular patches are cut, leaving 0.5 cm on each side for the seams. It is recommended to hem a satin strip on the inside of the patch, this will protect the trousers from rapid wear in the future. The finished patch is strongly ironed, smoothing its seams. And so that the braid at the bottom of the trousers does not wear out and does not get shaggy, saturate it with PVA glue.

Lace curtains are usually darned. But it takes a lot of time, and the darned places spoil the look of the curtains. It is better to soak the pieces from old curtains, corresponding to the pattern, in starch and glue the curtains from the inside out to the damaged area, and then iron them with a hot iron.

Woolen items can be repaired as follows: move the edges of the gap as close as possible, take a piece of the same cloth, spread it thickly with egg white and place it under the torn place, then iron it from the inside out with a hot iron.

The damaged area of ​​any item can be glued with BF-6 glue or other fabric glue. The prepared patch is moistened and ironed. The patch is placed under the damaged area, face up, and the outline of the flaw is outlined in chalk through the hole in the fabric. The edges of the patch should be 1–2 cm larger than the damaged area. Separately, prepare a patch for the patch, which should be 0.5–1 cm larger than the patch itself along the edge. Squeeze a little glue onto a clean glass and let it dry for 4–6 minutes. With dried glue, smear the damp cloth, the edges of the patch and the patch. The gap between the edges of the damaged item and the edges of the patch is also smeared with a thin layer of glue. The glue layer is also allowed to dry, after which it is lubricated again. The second layer is also allowed to dry, then, applying a patch smeared with glue, they fasten everything with an iron (3-4 seconds). After preliminary fastening of the patch, the thing is turned over, a damp cloth is placed on top and kept under the iron for 20 seconds. Exposure under a hot iron is repeated 2-3 times, wetting a rag.

Slit pockets wear down at the edges. To repair them, the paper clips on the pockets are stripped off, the bottom frame is unstitched, and the edging is turned onto the front side. Then it is stripped off and the worn edge is cut off. After ironing, the hem is sewn on the lower edges. The seam is ironed out. If the width of the facing is not enough and there is no spare material, then you have to use the fabric from under the bead. For the manufacture of a pocket frame during repair, a pocket flap is often used, without which the thing does not lose its appearance. The sewn edging is wrapped inside the pocket and, covering the edge of the frame, is sewn along the seam line. At the end of the repair, the paper clips are placed along the edges of the pocket, where they were previously. The burlap of the pocket, if it is worn out only in its lower part, is cut to a strong place and again sewn or extended.

The button is sewn on not pulling strongly to the material, but leaving the thread somewhat free. The "stalk" formed in this way must be wrapped several times with thread. This is done so that the loop wraps around the button loosely without pulling. Moreover, the "stalk" should be longer in denser tissue and shorter in light tissue. A button can be sewn to silk without a "stalk", not pulling the thread very tightly. When sewing buttons to outerwear, you need to put a small button or a piece of fabric on the other side - for strength.

The buttons are sewn in places where the fabric is not stretched too much. To position the sewn buttons exactly opposite each other, you must first sew the upper part of the button, make a mark on its head with chalk and press it to the opposite side. The second half of the button is sewn onto the printed place.

If the leather gloves are tight, wrap them in a damp cloth for a few hours, then put them on your hands and dry as they are.

Leather gloves sometimes fade from the inside out and get your hands dirty. Rub talcum powder on the seamy side to keep your hands clean.

To protect the white fur from yellowing, we advise you to store it in a blue bag or case in the summer.

Wear and tear on the elbows can be reduced. This is especially true for jerseys. Sew on the sleeves from the inside out with a piece of light fabric, preferably the same color. Then the lining will be wiped, not the jersey.

Do not hang woolen clothing you have just taken off in your closet. It must first be ventilated, cleaned of dust and only then hung in the closet.

Do not hang clothes on the back of a chair. From this it loses its shape. Coming from the street, immediately hang your coat or dress on a hanger. It is important that they match the shape and size of the garment. Short shoulders will stretch the sleeves, long ones will make dents on them.Dresses with a large neckline slide off any hanger, so the hanger should be covered with fabric.

Wet woolen clothing should not be dried near heating. The fabric loses its natural properties from heat.

Threads for darning in color, thickness and quality should correspond to the fabrics being repaired. They can also be pulled out of the hem at the seams. The darning stitches should be fine and go first along the share thread, and then along the weft (across). With a transverse puncture, the needle is passed under the thread, then over it. At the edges of the darning, the thread is not tightly pulled, so that when shrinking after washing, the threads do not tighten the fabric. The rows of threads should fit snugly against one another. Darning can also be done on a sewing machine with a special device. If the fabric is not frayed through, but only very thinned, the darning is laid along the share, without making cross stitches.

Patches must be of the same material from which the item is sewn, or of a similar quality and color. Before applying the patch, the material must be washed and ironed so that it does not sit down later. The patch is applied to the repaired place, combining the share and weft threads. If the patch is to be placed near the seam, the seam is paired and the patch is inserted with one side into the seam. Then it is swept in and after that, bending the edges, sewn with a blind seam from the front side and from the wrong side. Pull out the outline. On a rectangular patch in all four corners, an oblique incision is made to a depth of 0.5 cm. If the patch is not visible, you can sew it on with a typewriter.

On the diaper fabrics, the patch is applied on top. To do this, the damaged area is outlined, adding 0.5 cm to each side, and the corresponding patch is cut out. Bending the edges inward, sew. On variegated materials, the pattern should match the pattern of the item being repaired.

Damaged areas of any item can be glued with BF-6 glue or other fabric glue. The prepared patch must be moistened, ironed, placed under the damaged area with the face up and through the hole in the fabric, draw around the contour with chalk. The edges of the patch should be 1–2 cm larger than the damaged area. Separately, prepare a patch for the patch, which should be 1–0.5 cm larger than the patch itself along the edge. Apply a little glue to a clean glass and let it dry for 4–6 minutes. With dried glue, smear the damp cloth, the edges of the patch and the patch. The gap between the edges of the damaged item and the edges of the patch is also lubricated with a thin layer of glue, allowed to dry and re-lubricated. The second layer is also allowed to dry, then, applying a patch smeared with glue, they fasten everything with an iron (3-4 seconds). After preliminary fastening of the patch, the thing is turned over, a damp cloth is placed on top and kept under the iron for 20 seconds, then repeated two or three times, wetting the rag.

Fixing sheets and towels... The sheets are often wiped in the middle - they are cut along the lobar thread and both halves are sewn along the edges.

Towels tend to wear out faster at the ends. The towel is cut in the middle and sewn with worn ends. The edges are hemmed.

Blazers and trousers sometimes they require minor repairs: the cuffs of the sleeves and trousers wear out. The sleeve cuffs are repaired as follows: the lining is stripped off and the hem of the sleeve is carefully cut off. The ends of the sleeves and the cut strip are ironed out, the strip is sewn on, then folded over, the lining is sewn on and ironed again. On trousers, the edges are repaired in the same way. If the braid of the trousers is frayed, it is replaced. So that the braid on the bottom of the trousers does not wear out, it can be impregnated with PVA glue.

Lace curtains usually darned, but it takes a long time, and darned places spoil the appearance of the product. Pieces of old curtains, corresponding to the pattern, can be soaked in a starch solution and "glued" to the damaged area of ​​the curtains from the inside out, and then ironed with a hot iron.

Woolen Woven can be repaired as follows: move the edges of the gap as close as possible, take a piece of the same cloth, spread it thickly with egg white and put it under the torn place, and then iron it from the inside out with a hot iron.

Buttons sewn, leaving the thread somewhat free. The "stalk" formed in this way is wrapped with a thread several times (it should be longer on dense fabric and shorter on lightweight). A button can be sewn to silk without a "stalk" by loosely pulling the thread. Sewing buttons to outerwear, put a small button or piece of fabric on the other side - for strength.

Buttons sewn in places where the fabric is not too tight. In order to position the sewn buttons exactly opposite each other, first sew the upper part of the button, make a mark on the head with chalk and press down to the opposite side. The other half of the button is sewn into place of the print.

Darning and patches on knitted sweaters, cardigans and tops look alien and sloppy, so it is better not to repair such products with needles and threads, but to tie them up, and this is not a complete alteration, but only the replacement of some parts.

For example, worn cuffs, elastic bands and collars can be loosened and tied using the same thread, if they are still good for work, or yarn to match. In addition, a sweater with long sleeves can always be turned into, for example, a three-quarter sleeve model.

Machine knitting is more difficult to loosen because finer threads are often used, so you will have to take 3-5 folds to knit or crochet with the resulting yarn.

Using old yarn will require you to regularly tie the threads, which is why not very neat knots appear on them that can ruin the appearance of the product, so they are left on the wrong side. It is best to do this in the process of knitting, but if any of the knots nevertheless turned out to be from the face of the product, it can be crocheted to the wrong side.

Knitwear must be washed and dried before being repaired. We described how to do this in the corresponding chapter of our book.

Open the prepared product, then start working with the damaged part. Spread it on the table, find the worn out area, define its borders and cut the side loop in the row located 20-30 mm higher. Then pull the free end of the thread to separate the damaged section.

The open loops that appear, type on a knitting needle and continue to knit the fabric with the same pattern with the same yarn. If there is no such yarn, you can choose another to match or contrast, then you can change the pattern, but this must be justified by the style. Repaired parts are reassembled and restored to the integrity of the product.

This method is good if you need to shorten or lengthen the product, change the style of the sleeves or replace stretched elastic bands, but what if a hole appears on your favorite sweater?

First, kick off the part you want and spread it out in front of you. Then cut out the damaged area, keeping the top, bottom and side loops. You should have a square or rectangular hole. Collect the upper loops on a knitting needle, and the lower loops on a special knitting pin. Tie the fabric of the required size, repeating the pattern of the detail of the product, and leave the loops open. Thread a piece of yarn into a jersey needle and sew the open loops of the rectangle or square you just knit and the pinned loops as shown below (fig. 84).

Rice. 84. Sewing open loops

Then sew along the sides of this crochet patch, seizing only the outer edges of the hem loops with the needle (fig. 85). In this case, the number of rows in the part and in the linked fragment must be the same. The repaired part is sewn to the product and steamed if the quality of the yarn and the knitting method allow it.

Rice. 85. Joining parts with gripping edge loops

Absolutely any.Just because it's nice when a repaired item can still serve for a long time. It is especially pleasant when it is possible to make complex equipment continue to serve. The more expensive this technique is, the more pleasant the result.

And I take apart everything from iron or microwave to phones, tablets and computers. Most often I disassemble it for the purpose of repair, but sometimes I disassemble it just to see how this unit works. My opinion is that you need to know what is inside the equipment, what parts are there, what technologies are used to use the device 100% and know the weak points.

For example, if you disassemble a modern electric meat grinder, you can see that the gears in it are plastic, which means that in no case should bones or unfrozen meat get into it. If you adhere to this, then even the cheapest meat grinder will serve for a very long time.

If you look at the computer, you can also see how many high-quality parts are there, which companies, the quality of cooling and, as a result, draw conclusions whether the computer needs additional cooling and, if so, which nodes need to be upgraded for this.

Of course, in the modern world, with such a fast paced life, it is difficult to imagine a woman who, comfortably sitting on a sofa, mends her socks with cross stitches….

But, Clothing repair, is always relevant. I know for myself and my family. When, just bought, jeans, "accidentally" torn somewhere in the buttocks. Well, don't throw away the same thing right away! Mending clothes, of course, compared to sewing new productscan seem like a tedious and tedious duty. But at the same time, this work is simple and can really captivate, because it gives an opportunity to experiment.

Repairs can be divided into three categories:

Minor repairs- sewing on torn off buttons, metal hooks and loops, restoring worn ones or overcasting new loops, sewing on a hanger, repairing the lining, inserting small patches, etc.;

Medium repair - repair of worn-out places, change of parts, slight change in the size of the product or its parts;

Major renovation Is a change in the size and style of individual parts.

The period of wearing clothes increases with the repair of individual parts, as well as with the reworking of the product.

Well, now hardly anyone wants to change the product, unless it is the most favorite thing in your wardrobe, but, for example, lengthen or hem pants grown up son, you can do it.

It is necessary to choose a piece of fabric that is suitable in texture and color, cut out the cuffs of the required length and stitch to the bottom of the trousers.

There are such types of finishes that require repair of things: decorative details; braid, cord, inlay, soutache, buttons, buckles; constructive means (folds, tucks, appliqués).

The easiest thing to restore clothing is finishing various materials, decorative details, fittings.

Use as additional finishing materials fur (by the way, very fashionable this season), leather, velvet, knitwear.

A special effect is achieved a combination of finishing fabrics of two colors - a play on contrast, or the same colors, but different tone intensities.

Of course, you need to look so that the fabrics and finishing materials are combined with the main thing in color, density and texture, and the thing is transformed. And not vice versa.

Advice: Do not discard the strips of fabric you cut to shorten your finished garments. Gather up pieces of lace, wide satin ribbons, and leftover lining fabric. A box with such "treasures" has helped me more than once.

Published by krovsmolokom on Mon, 05/30/2011 - 22:52

When buying jeans, many girls face the problem of their length, finding a way out - tucking the bottom of the jeans. It looks, at least, not neat.

In my case, the jeans were worn until they were trampled and frayed, turning into tatters.Of course, if your goal is to create a messy look, uncut rolled-up jeans are the “IT”.

Published by krovsmolokom on Wed, 05/18/2011 - 12:48

For the last 5-10 years, tattered, shabby gins have been in vogue, and we often see these jeans in stores and buy them. The problem is that, with its awesome fashion, the lines of life of such jeans are much less, since scuffs turn into holes during further wear and washing, which does not really inspire them to continue wearing them.

Published by krovsmolokom on Mon, 04/18/2011 - 16:16

There was a minor accident with my jeans, under not very good circumstances a small hole about 2 cm wide was formed on them. I decided to show you how to easily and quickly eliminate this nuisance.

You will need:

- sewing machine;
- thread to match jeans (cotton);
- a simple pencil.

Old clothes should not be thrown away.

If you turn on the imagination, learn about some secrets, then you can make not only beautiful, but also useful crafts.

Old T-shirts, T-shirts and sweaters can be used to create new items that will last you a long time.

Here are just a few of what can be made from old clothes:

1. Cut off the main part of the shirt (torso). The upper part can be used for a separate project.

2. Now cut the main piece crosswise into strips, about 2.5 cm wide, but not cut completely - leave about 3 cm.

3. Now pass your hand through the loops, stretch the product a little and you can wear it like a scarf.

* As the cotton stretches, the ends will be curled, giving the scarf a special charm.

4. Decorate your scarf with a fabric flower.

1. You need to cut circles out of the old shirt. Scissors and a plate will help you with this. Circle 4 to 6 circles.

2. Cut out all the circles. Since the shirt has 2 layers, you will end up with 8 or 12 circles of fabric.

3. A spiral must be cut out of each circle. No special tools needed - cut by eye.

4. Unwind the spirals and divide them into 2 sections of 4 or 6 and connect both sections. Sew the ends of the spirals. if there are 4, then sew all 4. For this you can use hot glue, thread and a needle or a sewing machine.

You will have a cute scarf.

Video tutorial on how to make this scarf:

5. You can decorate the scarf with a flower.

1. Cut the old shirt as shown in the image.

2. Roll the resulting thread into a ball.

3. Begin to twist the thread gently into a circle, adding the glue to hold it in place.

4. Glue the flower to the scarf.