Heat gun DIY repairman

In detail: do-it-yourself repair heat gun from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

To heat various rooms and maintain the required temperature, we are faced with the question: What kind of fan heater should be purchased?

- And we need to approach such a question rationally and economically.

Economical - taking into account the consumption of electrical energy. Reasonable - from the point of view of choosing this product for a fan heater.

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Currently, we are simply at a loss in front of such a choice, since there is a wide range of products on sale:

  • various designs;
  • various types of modifications

and the power of fan heaters.

So what kind of fan heater do we need to buy ?:

  • IRIT IR - 604, power 1000-2000 W;
  • Delta B - 801 - 1, 2000 W;
  • WATT WCH - 1500, 1500 W;
  • First TZ - FH3, 2000W

I would believe that the following conditions should be taken into account when purchasing:

  1. area of ​​the room;
  2. time of heating the room with subsequent maintenance of the required air temperature;
  3. type of premises.

- premises, when purchasing, should not be neglected in the advisory approach to such a solution to the issue. This implies the advice of the seller-consultant himself in choosing a heater.

To successfully carry out repairs to troubleshoot fan heaters, you need to know - how these heaters are arranged.

Both the electrical circuit itself and its individual elements included in the circuit do not require great knowledge in electrical engineering in their understanding.

What is the point here? - The bottom line is the very value of the resistance of the fan heater.

From the section on electrical engineering, we know that the lower the resistance both for the electrical circuit as a whole, and in particular for the heaters, the greater the current value will be accordingly.

Video (click to play).

To put it more simply, the less the resistance of any heating element, the heating coil of the fan heater, the greater the degree of heating.

Of course, fan heaters have their own permissible resistance value. Consider the electrical diagram of fan heaters intended for connection to a two-wire single-phase network.

As a rule, for safe use of fan heaters, their grounding must also be taken into account, that is, the combination of a grounding device with the metal casing of the fan heater.

This electrical diagram Fig. 1 of the fan heater consists of:

  • switch SA1;
  • two thermostats SK1, SK2;
  • electric motor M1;
  • heater EK1.

The electric motor in the electric circuit is the electric fan, which creates air injection to the heater.

The EK1 heater can be an ordinary electric heating coil made of nichrome.

The SK2 thermostat provides the preset heating mode of the EK1 heater for this circuit, from 5 to 40 degrees Celsius. Timely shutdown is also ensured upon reaching the set mode of the heater heating temperature.

The switching on and off of the heater here occurs due to the heating and cooling of the bimetallic plate of the thermostat, which is the switch contacts.

The diagram shows the connection of the ground wire to the metal casing of the fan heater. The connection of the fan motor and the EK1 heater is parallel in the electrical circuit.

SA1, SK1, SK2, - have a serial connection in the circuit. The electrical circuit for this circuit is closed at the electric motor and heater.

Possible reasons for a fan heater malfunction may be:

  • oxidation or burning of contacts SA1, SK1, SK2;
  • burnout of the copper wire in the stator winding of the electric motor;
  • burnout of the heating coil of the heater;
  • burnout of the wire in connection with the plug;
  • burnout of the wire in the contact connection with the heater;
  • mechanical damage to the wire in the network cable

Consider the following diagram, a diagram of a three-phase fan heater TVK 612; 912.

three-phase fan heater TVK 612; 912

The three-phase fan heater consists of three heaters EK1, EK2, EK3. Two phases L2, L3 are connected through a contactor to heaters EK2, EK3.

Phase L1 is connected to switch SA1 through disk thermostat SK1.

From the switch, as seen in the diagram, there are two taps from phase L1. One branch of the phase current L1 through the switch SA1 goes to the contact connection with the electric motor.

Another branch of the phase current L1 is connected to the contactor KM1, then the phase L1 is connected to the first heater EK1.

The neutral neutral wire also has two branches. One branch of the neutral wire is connected to the electric motor, that is, the electric motor is connected to an external voltage source 220V, phase L1 and neutral.

Another neutral branch is connected via a contactor to the switch. In other words, by closing the switch contacts, the operating mode of the heaters can be controlled.

The electric motor, as shown in the diagram, is electrically connected to the body by ground, just like the body of the fan heater itself, namely, the body of the electric motor and the body of the fan heater are connected to ground.

I believe that it is not so important here to learn how to outline all the available connections for a given electrical circuit. It is enough just to carefully trace its individual sections.

The principle of operation of a household fan heater is the same as that of a heat gun that heats, for example, a warehouse or some other room.

To diagnose the fan heater circuit for individual sections of the electrical circuit, individual elements in the electrical circuit, it is necessary to disassemble this heating appliance.

To disassemble the fan heat, you need a screwdriver for the corresponding screw head. With such a diagnosis, you will need:

  • probe or indicator screwdriver with batteries;
  • device Multimeter or Ohmmeter.

Diagnostics both for individual sections of the electrical circuit and for individual elements included in the electrical circuit of the fan heater can be carried out with a probe. Currently, there is a wide range of different probes on sale, for example, in my practice I use the Navigator NTP-E probe, since I also need it for work on the electrical part.

The ohmmeter device is necessary after all the electrical connections have been made, because before connecting the fan heater to the outlet, you need to check the heating device for resistance.

After removing the cover, we turn our attention to the fuses, which are in the electrical circuit. Fan heaters usually have a blown fuse.

In the photograph, we can see the fuses with the designation of the pointing arrows:

  • blue arrow - fuse;
  • yellow arrow - overheat fuse.

This photo shows a fuse with a rated heating temperature of 121 degrees Celsius.

The heating element is the heat of the fan, as can be clearly seen in the photograph, it is made in the form of a spiral, nichrome is used as a material.

When replacing the heating element, the following is taken into account:

  • resistance of heating elements;
  • power of heating element.

Diagnostics for the electric motor circuit of the fan heat is carried out taking into account the resistance measurement:

  • stator windings;
  • rotor windings

and detailed information on diagnostics of an electric motor can be found in this website.

Heat guns are designed for continuous operation for a long time, and, like any equipment for continuous operation, they require periodic maintenance and repair. Heat gun maintenance consists in cleaning them and adjusting parameters such as: air flap clearance, compressor pressure, fuel pump pressure, etc. A heat gun repair is to find faulty parts and replace them.

Consider, for example, a Master BV 110 E heat gun. This is an indirectly heated diesel heat gun with electronic flame control.

The basic structure of such a gun is quite simple. The fuel is supplied by the fuel pump to the injector, where it is sprayed into the combustion chamber. In front of the nozzle, there are two electrodes that ignite the fuel. Also, air is blown into the combustion chamber by a fan. If the gun is indirectly heated, then the combustion chamber has two independent circuits, which makes it possible not to mix heated air with combustion products.

The maintenance process of a diesel heat gun consists in cleaning the following components: fan, ignition electrodes, nozzle and diffuser and combustion chamber.

Let's transgress. Remove the cover from the back and front.

Now we have access to the fan and the rear grille. To get to the injector, we disconnect from the combustion chamber: 2 wires of the ignition electrodes (red), a photo sensor (black), a fuel line (copper tube), as well as 2 wires each from the thermal sensors on the combustion chamber. All wires are disconnected by hand, only a key is needed for the fuel line.

To remove the combustion chamber, you need to unscrew one screw in the lower front of the housing.

To remove the unit with the nozzle and diffuser, you need to unscrew the two nuts on the rear end of the combustion chamber.

Now you need to thoroughly clean the nozzle, electrode and diffuser.

The combustion chamber is non-separable, but it can also be well cleaned of soot using a compressor.

After cleaning the heat gun, it is also necessary to set the required gaps between the electrodes, as well as the gap of the air damper into the combustion chamber.

Everything. This completes the service.

When repairing heat guns of this type, the main task is to find faulty parts. What can be both an easy task, if the breakdown is of a mechanical nature, or rather nontrivial, for example, in case of malfunctions of the flame keeping system, you have to check all the elements of the control system step by step.

After identifying the faulty part, it remains to find it in the detailing and order.

Finally, a link to the channel with small videos about the repair of Master heat guns.

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Before you start repairing heat guns, you should study the theoretical part of the heat gun process - a good way to heat a room, currently there are both diesel and gas guns. Why does the pump smoke, does the gun heat up poorly, and why does the fuel go away too quickly? Maybe you need to clean the nozzle or replace it completely? Is the electromagnetic pump broken? Frequent breakdowns can be caused by various factors, which depend both on the mode of operation of the gun and on the quality of the fuel and parts. Instead of giving money for simple repairs, you can first try to fix the unit yourself.

Repairing a diesel installation can be quite expensive, diagnostics alone can cost more than one thousand rubles. Many users cope with the breakdown on their own by disassembling the gun.

There are several reasons for the breakdown of diesel guns:

  1. There is a problem with the valve spring - for example, it flew off and therefore the valve is constantly closed, without air flow into the chamber, because of this, the diesel gun stalls.
  2. Broken fan wire when there is no warm air movement. First you need to strip the terminals, inspect the motor winding using a tester. Check winding insulation.However, in most cases, it is easier not to repair the diesel cannon yourself, but simply to buy a new engine.
  3. It may be necessary to change the injectors. A lot depends on this part - it distributes fuel in the combustion chamber, that is, ensures the correct operation of the entire gun. However, nozzles rarely break, but if this happens, then it is easy to buy and replace this part, they are sold in any heat gun store.
  4. There is no fuel supply to the injectors due to clogged filter. To repair it, open the body of the gun, open the plug, take out the filter and rinse it with kerosene. Dry and reinstall.

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If you do not have experience in repairing diesel guns, then it is better to seek professional help.

It is important to find the cause of the breakdown and correctly carry out the repair yourself. Buy the necessary parts and replace them; in most cases, repairing a diesel gun can be done by hand.

Most often, the fan breaks down in diesel heat guns, because it is he who wears out the fastest.

This happens for the following reasons:

  1. Insulation melts or burns out quite often. In this situation, the wires should be changed. However, if the wire is completely worn out or it was damaged mechanically, then the fan will have to be replaced.
  2. Most diesel heat guns are equipped with low-power fans, so it can be easily replaced if necessary, because this part is available in any gun equipment store.
  3. You need to choose a fan based on the performance of the gun.
  4. You can replace the fan either yourself or, if you are unsure of your own abilities, call the master.

Any breakdown of a diesel cannon can be repaired without calling a master, most often you just need to buy and install a new part. Of course, each heating installation requires a special approach, but if you find time for repairs, you can do everything yourself.

In a gas cannon, the most common parts that break down are: the blower fan; piezoelectric element for gas combustion; control and protective units; fuel supply device. There are several ways to repair a gas cannon yourself.

Problems are as follows:

  1. Gas does not burn. Usually the problem is in the piezoelectric element. Cleaning the igniter and setting the gap between the electrodes can help. If this does not correct the situation, then you need to install a new piezoelectric element.
  2. When gas is connected to the cannon, but does not directly enter the chamber. The main cause of this problem is burner clogging. It should be cleaned using a compressor, that is, a powerful jet of air.
  3. Smell of carbon monoxide. This problem occurs when there is a leak in the gas hose. This can be eliminated by tightening the fastening clamps or cutting off the ends of the hose. If the smell persists after that, then it is best to buy and install new main hoses. To find the exact location of the gas leak, you should soap your hands and bring them to the hose - where the gas flows out, soap bubbles will inflate.

The gas cannon shuts down by itself. The most common cause of this problem is a breakdown of the electronic gas control valve. There is only one way out - a complete replacement of the part.

The cannon works as usual, but the gas is escaping much faster. In this case, the gearbox has broken down, the most correct solution to the problems would be a complete replacement of this element.

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You can disassemble the gas cannon using ordinary tools.

The burner is on, but no heat is felt. The problem is in the fan - first of all, the wiring is checked, if no faults are found, then you will need to buy a new fan and install it instead of the old one. It is not difficult to repair a gas cannon at home. However, most often, defective elements should simply be replaced with new ones.

Malfunctions of a diesel heat gun are also such - fuel unevenly enters the combustion chamber.Most often, the problem is associated with a clogged fuel tank. In this case, thorough flushing of the fuel tank and its supply system to the chamber can help. Before flushing, you need to drain all the fuel, and then purge the entire system and refill the fuel.

Fuel does not ignite. Spark plug defects can cause this problem. To fix this, you need to pull out the candle and clean it mechanically, create a gap between the electrodes.

The diesel cannon works intermittently. The most common cause of malfunction is a clogged air filter. Only a new filter, which must be bought and stopped, will help in this situation.

The heat exchanger does not heat up well, the fire in the combustion chamber is small:

  1. You should look at the nozzle, most likely it is clogged.
  2. You can clean it yourself by flushing it from dirt, and then thoroughly blowing it with a powerful jet of air.
  3. If it still doesn't light up, master will help.

The gun gets very hot during operation. The most common problem is the thermostat. The defect can be eliminated by cleaning the thermostat parts or completely replacing them with new ones. The heat gun can be easily repaired at home if the cause of the breakdown is correctly identified. For the procedure, you don't even need special tools or skills.

This heating unit is currently available to everyone, but they often break. I don't want to pay several thousand for repairs by calling the master, so you can try to fix the problems yourself. Many guns require a simple temperature control, a thermocouple. With good fuel, the gun starts up and works normally, but do not forget about the timely cleaning of the unit parts.

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Heat guns are one of the most effective types of equipment for space heating.

And this is not surprising: after all, with the help of these heating units, you can heat a room in a fairly short period, even large ones.

This is achieved due to the fact that the principle of operation of heat guns is as follows: heat is generated in the structural unit of the unit, and then, with the help of a powerful air flow, is supplied to a given place.

The uniqueness of the principle of operation of heat guns has led to the fact that recently equipment of this type has begun to be used quite often to achieve various industrial and domestic purposes. In other words, heat guns have gained extraordinary popularity due to their technical characteristics and ease of use.

But everyone probably knows that no matter how high-quality and efficient the equipment is, sooner or later failures occur in its functioning and malfunctions may occur. In such situations, the owners of heat guns, as a rule, contact specialized service centers.

However, there is another approach for identifying and eliminating defects in the operation of heating units of this type, which lies in the fact that the repair of a heat gun can be done by hand. Therefore, this article will be devoted to how to correctly find out and troubleshoot the operation of gas and diesel heat guns.

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Most often, the following structural elements can fail in a gas heat gun:
  • blower fan;
  • piezoelectric element for gas ignition;
  • control and protective units;
  • fuel supply device.

Therefore, below we will indicate what malfunctions may arise in the operation of gas heating units, as well as how they can be eliminated with our own hands:

  1. Gas does not ignite. In this situation, as a rule, the piezoelectric element has failed. It is recommended to clean the igniter and set the gap between the electrodes. And if the problem is not solved, then it is necessary to completely replace the piezoelectric element.
  2. Gas is connected to the heat gun, but does not enter the combustion chamber. The cause of this malfunction is a clogged burner.It is recommended to clean this element with a compressor, in other words, you need to blow through the burner with a powerful jet of air.
  3. There is an unpleasant smell of carbon monoxide. As a rule, the appearance of this malfunction is due to the fact that a leak has appeared in the gas hoses. Therefore, in order to eliminate this defect, it is necessary to tighten the fastening clamps or cut off the ends of the hose. If this procedure does not help, then these line hoses must be replaced.

You can read an overview of suitable heat guns for a garage in this article.

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Diesel heat gun malfunctions consist of the following important points:
  1. Fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber intermittently. The appearance of this defect is primarily associated with contamination of the fuel tank and its supply system. In this case, it is recommended to drain the fuel from the tank and rinse thoroughly. Then it is necessary to purge the entire fuel system.
  2. The fuel mixture is non-flammable. This failure is primarily associated with spark plug defects. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the plug, clean it mechanically, and also adjust the gap between the electrodes of this ignition element.
  3. The heat gun began to work intermittently. This type of malfunction is associated with a clogged air filter. In such a situation, a new filter must be installed.
  4. The heat exchanger does not heat up well due to a small flame in the combustion chamber. This defect is due to the fact that the nozzle is heavily soiled. In this case, cleaning occurs in a non-mechanical way. In other words, the nozzle is thoroughly flushed and then purged with a compressor.
  5. The heat gun overheats during operation. This malfunction occurred because the thermostat was out of order. To eliminate the defect, you need to clean all the elements of the thermostat or, if necessary, replace them with new ones.

In conclusion, we want to wish you that your heat gun never breaks down, and if such a nuisance did happen, then following our recommendations, you can easily identify all the defects and feel free to carry out repairs yourself.

Watch a video in which an experienced user clearly demonstrates the process of repairing a gas heat gun with his own hands: