In detail: Termeks water heater DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
A household water heater is an almost irreplaceable thing in the house, and its failure deprives us of exactly half of the amenities. Inexpensive models of water heaters that are installed in apartments are prone to minor problems. Do you always need to call a master or take the unit to a service center, paying for simple work? We offer you a brief overview of the main malfunctions of Termex water heaters, the repair of which will not be difficult and will allow you to reasonably save money.
The principle of operation of the Termeks boiler
In the eyes of an inexperienced owner, the body of a water heater looks unapproachable, but in fact, most models are close to a kettle with their device. Its main components are a tubular electric heater and a thermostat placed in a tank. In addition to them, magnesium anodes are used in Termex boilers. It is their wear that most often causes serious damage to the water heater. How does this happen?
The heating element is a fechral wire placed in a copper tube with a dielectric filler. Tap water serves as an ideal medium for ion exchange between the copper sheath and other metal parts of the Termex tank. In fact, it gradually destroys metals with high electrical potential, be it steel, galvanized or stainless steel, aluminum. To reduce this effect, a magnesium rod, the most active ion donor, is placed on the opposite edge of the container. When the magnesium decays, the copper eats away at the tank walls, and you cannot repair it on your own.
Video (click to play).
There is enough scratch in the Termex tanks with enamel coating for corrosion due to the small surface of the donor metal to come very quickly. To protect the enamel from damage associated with thermal expansion, a water shock absorber is required (a 100 liter 4-liter water heater is enough).
All Termeks water heaters are equipped with an emergency shutdown function. It works when the outlet or heating element is faulty. Some types of breakdowns may not give a signal for the emergency mechanism, and the process of destruction will be aggravated. If a water heater, after several years, suddenly began to heat the water weakly, to shock it is a sure sign that the device needs to be opened and the cause checked.
Repair of electric water heaters Termeks horizontal type is not particularly difficult. The work consists of the following stages:
1. Close the valve for supplying cold liquid to the boiler, unplug the device from the socket.
2. Drain the water from the tank using the hose attached to the drain connection. It is better to pour it down the toilet so as not to clog the drain of the bathroom or sink with accumulated scale.
3. Unscrew the hot water supply and open the check valve handle.
4. Having disconnected the hoses for supplying hot and cold liquid, you can remove the Termex water heater from the wall and conveniently place it upside down to make it easier to open the housing cover.
5. Unscrew a couple of self-tapping screws on the sides and the third, usually covered with a manufacturer's sticker. Remove the cover.
6. On the flange of the Termeks water heater there are heating elements, a thermostat and a magnesium anode. Visually assess their condition. Cracks, strong traces of corrosion and a thick crust of scale are a clear problem.
7. To replace the heating element, you need to disconnect three wires: red, blue and yellow.
8. Very carefully remove the thermal protection sensors and the regulator.The capillary copper tube is very thin and cannot be repaired if damaged.
9. Choose the heating element exactly for your model of the Termex water heater and in specialized stores to avoid fakes. Pay attention to how many holes for the thermostat on the old heating element - one or two?
10. Install the new heating element on the gasket in the same way. To avoid mistakes and "extra nuts", take step-by-step photos even when disassembling the boiler.
Rust destroys the flange if the water heater is idle with water. Do not neglect the simple rule of care for the Termex boiler: disconnect from the network, drain the water dry.
After disassembling the boiler, assess the degree of rusting of the flange. It probably needs to be cleaned and used further. The nut of the magnesium anode can also corrode.
The tank overheating sensor (black) is connected to the housing with gray thermal grease. If it is dry and cracked, it must be replaced.
How to get rid of it? First of all, do not allow the boiler to operate on hard water, install a pre-filter. And yet, the repair of storage water heaters from the manufacturer Termeks usually begins precisely because of scale deposits that impede the flow of liquid. In no case should mechanical cleaning of the walls and nozzles be used. Any scratches you leave on the tank will corrode it. Use cleaning products.
To destroy the limestone on the surface of the heating element and the tank, solutions of organic acids (citric, acetic) or an industrial composition for cleaning washing machines are used. Acid is taken in a ratio of 3-10% to 100% water. The solution must be hot. The container is washed with it, and the heating element is immersed in a suitable tank.
In the future, in order to prevent the formation of scale, you can install a magnetic converter on the Termeks water heater. The cheapest method of control is to reduce the heating in the tank. Calcium and magnesium salts boil at + 80 ° C, which means that by setting the temperature on the thermostat to + 60-70 ° C, you will eliminate the conditions for the development of limescale.
According to reviews, repairing a Thermex boiler with your own hands is quite simple if you read the instructions in advance and have minimal locksmith skills.
There are cases when the repair and maintenance of water heaters should be carried out only by specialists in the service center.
Your Termex boiler is still under warranty. Do not remove the branded sticker, otherwise you may be denied free service.
An emergency shutdown has been triggered in the new apparatus. Small-capacity (5-20 liters) Thermex boilers are distinguished by such a defect. If this happens, do not set it to maximum power, but call the master.
Failure of settings in the thermostat unit. In the event of a sudden power outage, the electronics can reset the set program. A specialist must restart it.
Water heaters with a volume of up to 150 liters of inexpensive domestic brands are in constant demand in city apartments and in suburban areas. The cost of repairing Termex Flat Plus IF 50V in service centers differs, but on average, it will cost 30% of the cost of the boiler with diagnostics and a call to the master. To prevent the water heater from becoming "golden", it is necessary to install it correctly and take measures against corrosion in advance.
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It happens that an incorrect installation system dooms the Termex water heater to permanent breakdowns. Such implicit errors include the formation of a galvanic pair inside the boiler. Ions move not only under the influence of an electric field, but also along the flow of a liquid. This means that the contact of copper through water with any foreign metal leads to its decomposition. A magnesium electrode is required to neutralize the argesive effect of the heating element sheath. Do not allow copper and aluminum (or steel) to come into contact at the joints.If they are inevitably present in the system, then the copper element must be downstream.
All Termeks storage tanks are made of steel (galvanized or coated with enamel), and flow tanks are made of copper. Such tanks are not afraid of scale and do not need a magnesium anode, but they require careful installation. Aluminum radiators and fittings cannot be combined with a water heater. With proper operation, even an inexpensive boiler will serve for a long time and with high quality.
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An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.
If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.
To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.
An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.
The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.
Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.
The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.
To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is designed specifically to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.
As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.
Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.
Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.
Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, a broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced.There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.
The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.
The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.
Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.
First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.
If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.
If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.
Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These methods for determining faults are suitable for both electric storage water heaters and flow-through models.
To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the tester measuring probes to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.
After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.
Occasionally, the water heater may stop working due to a tripped thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.
If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home.It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.
A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.
The water heater tank most often leaks if:
damage to the internal tank has occurred;
the heating element has deteriorated;
leaky gasket.
If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.
A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.
If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.
Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.
On horizontal type devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.
After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.
If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.
The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:
increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.
If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:
Disconnect the device from the power supply.
Remove the protective cover.
Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
Shut off cold water supply.
Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
Unscrew the screws that hold the heating element.
Remove the heating element and descale it.
Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
Rinse the device thoroughly.
Check the health of the magnesium anode.
If necessary, replace this element immediately.
Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
Install the heating element in place.
Reassemble the device.
Check the tightness of all fasteners.
Connect the water heater to the power supply.
Check for grounding.
The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.
This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.
A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:
VIDEO
It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center. Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.
Boilers Termeks have long established themselves as reliable and unpretentious household appliances. But, like any other technique, they are prone to malfunctions. Some of the breakdowns can be eliminated with your own hands, and in case of other malfunctions, the repair of the Termeks water heater should be done by a master.
Before disassembling the device, you need to have at least a little understanding of its design and principle of operation.
body material is sheet steel with anti-corrosion coating ;
alloy steel, durable and resistant to corrosion, used for the manufacture of the inner tank;
the elements of the device (heating element, magnesium anode and thermostat) are installed on a metal flange;
magnesium anode is a rod covered with a covered magnesium alloy - this part protects the tank from corrosion;
a drain pipe through which hot water is discharged (the intake takes place at the top of the tank, where the water temperature is higher);
the space between the outer shell and the tank is filled with polyurethane foam for good thermal insulation - due to this, the liquid in the switched off unit retains the temperature for a long time (like in a thermos);
heating element is used to heat water;
when the water heats up to a certain temperature, the heating turns off thermostat located at the bottom of the apparatus, it also turns on heating when the liquid cools down;
a tube is installed at the bottom of the tank through which cold water flows.
The water heater is running by convection principle :
through the supply pipe, water enters the storage tank;
the thermostat turns on the heating element to heat the liquid to the temperature set on the thermostat;
due to the physical law of convection, warm water begins to rise;
in the upper part of the tank there is an entrance to the pipe for the intake of heated water, which is supplied to the consumer;
when the hot water is used up and the temperature in the tank drops, the thermostat will turn on the heating again and the process will be repeated.
The design of the water heater is quite simple and there may be several causes of malfunctions. There are breakdowns in which it is possible to repair Termex water heaters with your own hands:
the device does not heat the liquid;
the unit heats the water slowly;
the boiler often turns off or does not turn on;
water flow from the tank.
When the liquid in the device does not heat up, then a possible cause may be a malfunction of the heating element. Signs of its failure, in addition to the lack of water heating, may be as follows: knocking out the automatics on the dashboard, permanently turning off the RCD (residual current device), receiving an electric shock through the water.
The heating element can come out of the three if:
the unit was turned on without water and the overheating protection did not work;
The heating element was “overgrown” with a thick layer of scale and was out of order due to overheating;
there was a sharp jump in the voltage in the network;
the heater has expired.
To check the heating element for damage, you need use a tester (with a special measuring device). If the device, switched to resistance mode, shows infinity, it means that the heater coil has burned out. If zero is displayed on the device, a short circuit has occurred. In both cases, the heater must be replaced.
Heater Replacement Procedure in a 50 liter Termex boiler is not difficult, but requires patience and attention.
Before draining water from a failed Termeks water heater, the unit should be de-energized. After that, release water from the container of the device, and unscrew all hoses or pipes from the nozzles.
Remove the device from the wall and turn it over.
Carefully, using a screwdriver, pry up the decorative plugs and remove them.
Video (click to play).
It should be noted that a screw is hidden under the sticker, often due to which craftsmen, when trying to disassemble the unit, break the cover.
In order not to confuse the location of all wires in the future during assembly, they must be marked with construction tape (by signing them), or photographed.
Now you need to unscrew the nuts holding the flange. In this model of the unit, there are 4 of them on each heating element.
Remove the retainer washer. If it is stuck, you can use a screwdriver.
Remove the heating element. It also often sticks to the body and requires a slight pry with a screwdriver to detach it.
The second flange contains more wires. They all need to be disconnected.
After disconnecting the wires, unscrew all nuts, remove the washer and remove the heater.
Now you need to completely unscrew the entire electrical part, which is held by 4 screws.
There is also a screw hidden under the board, which must be unscrewed.
After that, the decorative cover can be easily removed.
The method of replacing the heaters in the 80 liter Termex boiler is not much different from the above.
This is a fairly common malfunction that appears during prolonged operation of the device without preventive cleaning. If, when the boiler is on, you hear noises coming from the tank, and the water heats up for a long time, this means that the heating elements are "overgrown" with scale. Its thick layer interferes with the full transfer of heat from the heater to the surrounding liquid. This can cause the cell to overheat and burn out. With such a problem, it will be easy to make repairs with your own hands.
How to disassemble a water heater to replace heating elements was mentioned above. In a situation where the heating elements are in good order, but they have a large layer of scale, then it must be removed from the heaters. Mechanical cleaning (with a file, sharp objects and sandpaper) is not recommended due to possible damage to the heating element housing.
For safe descaling, you can use chemicals specially designed for this. You can buy them at a household chemicals store or service center.
For descaling, prepare a container, the depth of which will be slightly deeper than the heater itself, for example, a bucket.
It is necessary to dilute the descaler (which is acid) in a bucket, observing the percentage of concentration , which is indicated in the instructions. If the concentration is less, then the cleansing will be ineffective.
Dip the heating element in the acid solution and time it. Dissolution may take from several minutes to 2 or more hours. The cleaning time depends on the thickness of the formed layer and the properties of the solution.
It is important to follow the instructions for the descaler and not to overexpose the heaters in acid. After cleaning the heating elements, it is enough to rinse it with running water.
The reason that the Termeks water heater turns off without reaching the desired temperature, or does not turn on at all, may be faulty thermostat ... It is checked with a resistance tester. If it is missing, the part should be replaced. To do this, just remove the bottom cover of the device, disconnect the wires and replace the thermostat.
If a leak is detected from the container, the problem is solved by replacing it. Here you should calculate how much it will cost you to replace or repair the tank, and what is the price of a new unit. It is recommended not to spend money on repairs, but to purchase a new boiler.
If you nevertheless decide on an independent repair of the Termeks boiler tank, then the following difficulties should be taken into account:
when dismantling the tank from the outer casing, you will certainly damage the shell;
if the device has a plastic reservoir, it cannot be restored.
if the material of the container is copper or stainless steel, then you can try to solder it, but it will be problematic to do it efficiently without a special tool at home.
Some models of water heaters have glass enamel coated containers. When you try to repair such a tank by brazing, you will inevitably damage this layer, after which it will be impossible to repair it.
In a situation where water seeps out from under the flange, the problem may lie in rubber gasket that has worn out. To replace it, you need to de-energize the unit, drain the water, disassemble the device according to the above instructions and replace the gasket.
Some types of malfunctions of the Termex boiler can only be eliminated by a master, and it is highly discouraged to make repairs on your own in such cases. Problems that can only be solved by a specialist:
incorrect operation and emergency shutdowns of new equipment for which the warranty service has not expired;
the settings on the electronic thermostat are reset;
RCD often turns off the unit;
a tank leak, although the effectiveness of such a repair is questionable - it will be cheaper to purchase a new device.
But before calling the service, make sure that in the line through which cold water is supplied, there is a pressure ... There are models of units that turn off the boiler in the absence of pressure in the supply line.
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Poor water quality is considered to be the main cause of boiler breakdown. Because of this, scale forms on the surface of the heating element, the inner walls of the tank are susceptible to corrosion, which in the future entails more serious consequences and expensive repairs in the service center. In addition, the water heater may stop working due to improper connection to the power supply and the hot / cold water circuits.
As for the latter, when connecting the boiler, it is imperative to install a safety valve between the branch pipe coming out of the tank and the cold water supply pipe, which will protect the tank from rupture during a water hammer. You should also make the connection according to the instructions and, no less important, do not confuse where-what is connected. Sometimes situations arise that, if installed incorrectly, the water heater does not collect water. Please note that you should not panic in this case. It is better to take another look at how to properly connect the equipment to the pipes and, most likely, you will understand why your water is not collected.
So that you understand how to repair a storage water heater in different conditions, then we will separately consider how to repair all possible breakdowns with our own hands.
If the boiler does not heat the water to the required temperature, but still makes a noise when turned on, it means that scale has formed on the heating element, which you need to clean yourself. This is not difficult to do, you just need to disconnect the equipment from the network, drain the water from the tank and disassemble the case to remove the heating element. You will not have any difficulties with disconnecting the plug from the outlet, but draining the water can make the repair a little more difficult. Immediately we recommend watching a video lesson, which shows a simple method for solving this problem:
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After you empty the tank, you will need to disassemble the boiler yourself. To do this, carefully disconnect all fastons connected to the thermostat and unscrew the bolts, which are usually 6 pieces.
During the removal of the heating element, a little more water will pour out, which remains in the tank. It is recommended to clean the heating element itself immediately, before it is wet and the scale deposits have not hardened. We recommend using special cleaning agents that can be sprayed onto the heater. After a while, the deposits are effortlessly scraped off with a wooden spatula or even a blunt knife. Also, for repairs, you can boil the heating element in a bucket with the addition of special acid to the water, which will effectively solve the problem. To get rid of limescale for sure, we advise you to use fine-grained emery paper ("sandpaper") to clean the tubes to a metallic color.
Simultaneously with the repair of the boiler, which heats the water for a long time or weakly, it is recommended to replace the magnesium anode, which protects the tank from corrosion. To do this, dismantle the worn out rod and purchase exactly the same one in order to replace it yourself!
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After that, you need to assemble the boiler in the reverse order and check whether it was possible to repair the weak heating of the water. Do not forget that first of all you must fill the tank completely with water, then connect the plug to the mains and start.
We draw your attention to the fact that there is a situation when the boiler does not heat the water, because the heater is broken. In this case, self-repair is that you need to ring it with a multimeter, setting the resistance measurement mode. We will tell you about this below!
If the light on the boiler is on and the water does not heat up, then it is likely that the heater, which we talked about above, is not working. It is quite simple to check it at home, you need to install the tester probes on the contacts of the heating element and see the resistance on the display. With a working heater, the resistance can vary between 0.4-0.7, as shown in the photo below. If you see "1" on the display, then there is a breakage and you need to replace the part with a new one, because it is almost impossible to repair it.
By the way, if the boiler beats with current or when it is turned on, the RCD turns off by itself, then the cause of the breakdown, again, is in the heater from which the leak occurs. You can check the malfunction by connecting one probe to the contact of the heating element, and the second to the tube itself. You will see “1” on the display, the part is in good order and there is no need for repairs, a minus value or too large - replacement is required. In more detail about how to check the heating element with a multimeter, we talked in a separate article.
Another reason why the boiler does not heat the water or, on the contrary, heats up very much, is the failure of the thermostat. You can check it in two ways - with a tester or a lighter. Everything is clear with the tester, you need to act according to a similar method, but as for the lighter, everything is more interesting here. First, dismantle the thermostat and press the button on it (it is circled in the photo below). After that, the copper contact of the thermostat must be heated.If after some time the button returns to its original position (knocks it out), the thermostat is operational. If the thermostat does not work, you can repair the boiler that does not turn off or does not turn on by replacing this part with a new one. I would also like to note that there is no need to drain the water to replace the thermostat on the water heater. It is enough just to disconnect the equipment from the network and disconnect all the supplied wires.
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Also, sometimes there is a breakdown - the temperature is not shown on the display of the water heater or the display does not work at all. In this case, check all the elements of the circuit and if you do not find an open circuit, most likely the control unit has broken. You will not be able to repair electronics with your own hands in the absence of experience and knowledge, so you will have to take the electric water heater to a service center for repair.
If you notice that water is dripping from the boiler, it is not always possible to repair it yourself. It is good if the cause of the leak is the wear of the seal on the flange. In this case, the gasket must be replaced with the same size, which will allow the breakage to be repaired. The situation is much worse if the water heater leaks due to the wear of the tank itself. Some advise to glue or solder the holes, but, as practice shows, after a short period of time you will still have to say goodbye to the boiler, because such leak repair methods are extremely short-lived.
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That's all I wanted to tell you about DIY boiler repair. We hope that now you know what to do if an electric water heater is leaking, does not heat the water well or does not work at all. These devices do not have many problems and you can get rid of them by timely maintenance of the system. At least once a year, check the non-return valve and clean the heating element so that malfunctions bypass you!
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