Thermopot polaris DIY repair

Details: do-it-yourself polaris thermo-pot repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Thermopot is a mixture of a teapot and a thermos. To maintain a certain temperature of the liquid in the device, a heating function is provided. Despite the rather reliable design, the device breaks down over time, and the question arises: is it possible to repair the thermopot with your own hands?

Before you start looking for the reasons that caused the malfunction in the device, it is advisable to know a little about its device. A thermopot consists of a plastic or metal case, inside which there is a metal container for water. The device is closed with a lid with controls.

In any thermo-pot there are 2 heaters: one for boiling water, and the second for maintaining the desired temperature regime. To control the heating of the liquid to a certain value, the device is installed thermostat... The latter is of 2 types.

Stepless - characterized by smooth regulation of the water temperature in the range from 60 to 100 degrees.
Stepwise - the temperature regime is adjusted according to fixed temperature values, for example, as in the VITEK VT-1187 GY thermo-pot, Saturn ST-EK8032, as well as in the MYSTERY MTP-2403 device

Thermopots always have at their disposal several heating control modes. The more modes there are, the more flexible the device can be controlled.

But practice suggests that in most cases 3 modes are enough to control temperature indicators. In inexpensive models such as Magnit RTP-013 and MAGNIT RTP-002, only 1 temperature setting is available, which only allows you to boil water.

Video (click to play).

Also, the thermopot is equipped with an electronic board (control module) and electric pump (pump) for supplying heated water from the container. To supply heated water to the cup, there are several modes: manual filling, auto-filling and filling with a lever on the spout. Such filling functions are available, for example, in the Polaris pwp 4012d or Saturn ST-EK8034 NEW aggregate.

The most common causes of breakdowns are the following parts of the device:

network wire;
control module;
water pump;
electric heaters;
thermal switch.

Before you repair the thermo-pot with your own hands, you should disconnect it from the network. After that, in order to “ring out” the wire of the device with the tester, it must be disconnected. To do this, unscrew the screws on the bottom of the device and remove it. You will see the terminals to which the power cord... Unplug the cord and start “ringing” it with the tester. If the cord is in order, you can proceed with further troubleshooting.

If you find that on your device button does not work or all keys, the cause of the problem may be a failed control unit. It is not recommended to repair it on your own, since it is necessary to have certain knowledge in radio electronics. It will be better if a service center will repair the thermos kettle.

If, after turning on the device, it does not boil water, while all heating modes, as well as automation, are working, then these symptoms indicate that the heater may have burned out or the thermostat has failed.... To find out, you need disassembly of the unit.

Using a flat object (you can use a screwdriver), remove the plastic ring from the clips. Under it you will see fasteners that need to be unscrewed.

After removing the screws, remove the pallet.To continue disassembling, it is recommended to mark with a marker all the wires of the same color and photograph the location of all other wires. This should be done so that later during assembly there are no difficulties.

Disconnect the hose clamps holding the hoses connected to the pump. You can simply cut them off with scissors or wire cutters.

Disconnect the hoses from the electric pump connections.

Remove the top cover of the thermo pot, without applying great force, turn it upside down and lower the tank so that it is on the table.

Unscrew the PCB and set it aside.

2 more screws can be found under the gasket.

After unscrewing all the screws on the metal pallet, it can be removed together with the bottom.

Next, remove the 8 screws holding the cover.

Now use a screwdriver to pry off the protective cover and remove it. You will see a heating element.

After removing the heating element, it must be checked for open circuit using a tester. If the changes have shown that there is damage to the heater, then it will have to be replaced with a new one, since water does not boil due to this breakdown.

In different models of units, the type of heating elements may differ. Their location may also vary. But the algorithm for disassembling the device, in most cases, is similar. To learn more about how to change the heaters, you can watch the video.

If the thermopot does not pump water when trying to pour hot liquid into the cup, then, most likely, the pump does not work, due to its failure. To get to the pump, you will need to disassemble the device as described above. After removing all parts of the bottom, you will see the pump.

Next, do the following.

To easily remove the pump, disconnect one of the tubing connected to the pump. If the tubes are clogged with limescale, it is recommended to remove and clean them.
Separate the pump from the housing and be careful not to lose the silicone gasket.
After that, unscrew the fasteners connecting the motor to the impeller to the pump housing.
After disconnecting the pump housing and the electric motor, you will notice scale build-upthat interferes with the rotation of the impeller.
Also, if you remove the impeller (it is she who is responsible for the water supply), you can find clogged magnetto be cleaned of dirt.

If, after removing all the contaminants, the pump does not turn on and there is no water supply, then you will need to purchase a new pump, since these signs indicate a burnout of the electric motor winding.

Sometimes a situation arises when the thermo-pot does not turn off and boils water constantly... Or vice versa: you have poured water, the device heats it up, but turns off when the liquid is not boiling yet. Why is this happening? This malfunction can occur when the thermal switches are faulty. They can be found on the bottom and sides of the tank. For better contact with the surface, a special thermal paste is used.

The thermal switch located at the bottom of the tank is attached to it with two screws. Sometimes a manufacturer, especially a Chinese one, applies little thermal paste, because of which the thermostat starts to work incorrectly: the device may not turn off for a long time when boiling water.

To test the thermostat for operability, it is necessary to disconnect it from the tank body, and remove the wires from the terminals. In the normal state (no heating), the relay is in the “on” position. If you check it with a tester, the device will show a resistance of 0 Ohm.

Next, you should connect 2 wires to the switch and immerse it in water brought to a boil. Now measure the resistance again. If the device shows infinity, it means that the switch has tripped and it is functioning normally. If the sensor is not working, then you should purchase a new one and replace it. You can watch the following video about replacing the thermal switch.

Above, some breakdowns of the thermos kettle were considered, which can be completely eliminated without the involvement of a specialist. In other cases, the unit should be taken to a specialized service center for repair. But before you hand over the device for repair, ask how much it will cost you. Most often, from a financial point of view, repairs are not justified, since its cost will be within the price of a new thermo-pot.

Can a thermos boil water by itself? Of course it can, if he is a thermopot. This is a combination of an electric kettle and a thermos. He, like any technique, is prone to breakdowns. Therefore, you need to figure out whether it is possible to repair the thermopot on your own?

Thermopot is a smart kettle. The difference is that:

in addition to the water tank, it has an electric pump in its body;
there is a control module;
the flask keeps warm and works like a thermos.

If in an ordinary thermos the hot water gradually cools down, then our unit will keep the set temperature as long as the device is plugged into the outlet. Therefore, all models are equipped with two heaters. One heating element boils water, the second maintains the set temperature. The exception is inexpensive devices that only have a boiling function.

There are models with different thermostats. The device is responsible for the temperature of the liquid. There is a stepless regulator that smoothly raises the heating from 60 to 100 degrees Celsius. And there is a stepped one, which has predefined fixed positions. Many models use only three modes to control temperature readings.

A pump is needed to supply hot water from a container to a cup.

It has several modes of operation:

auto filling;
manual filling;
spill using a lever on the spout.

The control module is mounted under the cover. The board is responsible for re-boiling using a time relay. And also for lowering the mains voltage for the correct operation of the pump and time relay.

Any model has a thermal switch, which is controlled by a thermal fuse. Such protection is needed against overheating and combustion. Parts are attached to the bottom of the device case and the side wall.

If you have no knowledge or experience in electronics repair, it is advisable to contact a service center. But it's still nice to have a general idea of how the thermo-pot circuit works. Then it will be possible to eliminate small malfunctions without special education. For example, repair the power cord, evaporate and replace a faulty capacitor, or replace a burned-out heating element or pump yourself.

The thermo-pot has a power supply unit. It consists of a pulse transformer and a diode bridge. We do not recommend climbing inside. Even specialists are unlikely to want to do repairs. Most likely, they will insist on a complete replacement. Elements of an electrical circuit connecting electrical parts include: capacitors, resistances, diodes, transistors, etc. They are attached to the electrical board.

We have already mentioned the electric pump, control module and thermal protection. They are also included in the scheme. Let's take a look at several repair cases that do not require advanced knowledge.

Before trying to repair anything, you need to properly disassemble the unit. This is necessary, firstly, to find and get to the malfunction. Secondly, to properly assemble the device back. Otherwise, the already repaired thermopot will simply not work.

Almost all models are designed in the same way. Knowing the general principle, you can visually figure it out yourself. In order not to forget anything and not to confuse anything when dismantling, we will go all the way step by step:

What may not work and how to understand the reasons.

None of the indicator lights are on on the display, the kettle does not turn on. We check the power cord and each wire connection. We also check the thermostat, fuse, control module.
No water flows into the cup when the button is pressed. The reason is the pump.
Secondary boiling does not work, the thermos does not heat the water.We check the power supply module of the electrical board.
Basic boil does not work. We check the thermostat.
Heating only works. We check the teng for boiling.

Now in a little more detail - how to check it and what can be done to make everything work again.

The power cord must be ringed with a tester. If there is a problem, then the wire is simply replaced with a new one.

There are two modules in any thermo-pot. One for power, one for control. We look at the details on the getinax boards, and check the boards themselves for microcracks. Burnt parts are charred and capacitors swell.

Parts can be removed and replaced with workers. Solder the cracks with a soldering iron. If the replaced part burns out again, then there is a short circuit somewhere and the whole block will have to be replaced.

To check the condition of the heating element, you first need to unsolder it, and then ring it. If it nevertheless burned out, then it is difficult to repair the heating element with your own hands. Easier to replace with a new one.

It may not pump water due to an elementary blockage.

It is not difficult to eliminate such a breakdown by disassembling and cleaning:

Remove the hoses from the pump, disconnect the pump.
Unscrew the impeller from the housing.
Descale the impeller.
Remove the impeller, clean the magnet from dirt.
If, after cleaning, the pump continues to not work, then the winding on the engine may have burned out, then you will have to buy a new pump. When installing the hoses back to the nozzles, secure them securely with clamps to prevent leakage.

It happens that the thermo-pot does not turn off after boiling. And sometimes when you turn it on, the indicator blinks and immediately goes out. In both cases, the thermal switches must be checked. In the normal position, the contacts of the thermal switch are closed. When the maximum temperature is reached, they open. When the temperature drops by an average of 20 degrees, the contacts close again.Check the thermal switch with a tester. To do this, it must be disconnected. At room temperature, the tester should read 0 ohms. If the switch is lowered into boiling water, then - infinity. In case of other indications, the part must be replaced. You also need to check if the thermal paste has dried, which is used for better contact with the surface.In case the protection of the thermal switch does not work, then there is a thermal fuse that will open the circuit at a temperature of 110 to 150 degrees. Sometimes contact is simply not restored on it, then it is necessary to replace the fuse.At the end of the work, check the electrical safety of the repaired device. There should be no contacts on the case, except for ground!

In addition to this main board, the device also has a control module. It supports the function of the water supply and reheat keys. Also, indicators are connected to the module, showing in which of the available modes the technician is working at the moment.

In a heating device, the thermostat is of great importance. It is mounted on the bottom or side of the water tank. For situations where the thermostat does not work for some reason, a thermal fuse has been created. It excludes the possibility of overheating and breakage of the thermo-pot when it is accidentally activated with an empty reservoir.

Having found out where all the key elements of the thermopot are located, it becomes much easier to establish the cause of the breakdown and repair the thermopot with your own hands. But it would be more correct to investigate the circuit, to understand all the connections and what parts are to be replaced. In some cases, repairs are impractical, and even specialists do not undertake it.

Let's consider the most common problems and how to fix them.

The indicator panel does not light up and the device does not function at all. In such a situation, it is necessary to inspect all wires and connections, as well as the thermostat and fuse. If there is more than one breakdown, then it will be more difficult to repair the device with your own hands.
Only the secondary boil key functions, but the main primary boil is not performed. In such a situation, a thermal switch located in the bottom is checked.
The main boiling works, but with the secondary boiling, the thermal pot does not work. It is necessary to inspect the module on the main board.
Boiling does not work, only heating is available. Most likely, the heating component burned out, or the wire broke.
The water supply does not work. There is a pump malfunction. Often, this burns out the helical element for auxiliary heating, subsequently, no voltage is applied to the motor.

The body of the equipment is fixed with screws that need to be unscrewed by removing the plug from the socket in advance. On the inside you will find a plank that needs to be examined carefully. All kinds of burned out components, no doubt, indicate the specific location of the malfunction. The cord is carefully separated from the device and checked by a tester. If the cause of the problem is in the cable, you can quickly replace it with your own hands.There are two electronic modules in a standard thermocouple:

For power supply.

For management.

Both must be visually inspected for swollen capacitors, blown resistors, unusable fuses, torn tracks. Replace damaged elements with new ones, contacts and soldering are restored by tinning.But first of all, it is necessary to check the presence of fuses and their integrity. If changing a component does not help, and instead the replaced part also burns out, then the malfunction lies in the electronics, which have failed due to a short circuit. Image - Thermopot polaris DIY repair

The resistor value is indicated by colored stripes. A common question is how to find out which side the marking begins and which end.

It is much easier with capacitors - they swell.As a rule, beginners looking for methods to fix a thermal sweat are tormented by the question - what does "swell" mean? To understand, it is enough to see a non-working capacitor at least once.

With diodes, it is always more problematic, however, and they break much less often. You just need to separate the component and test it with a tester at both ends to see if it works.

The torn paths of the electronic circuit should be lightly cleaned by removing the varnish layer from them. Then the surface is tinned and covered with solder. It will work as well as before.

The pump pumps water for supply through the tap in manual or automatic mode. The pump is quite simple, it includes a few simple windings that any beginner can figure out. All contacts must be dialed in pairs. Also, a pump dismantled from the body should be tested by applying a certain voltage to it. The 12 volts needed to test the pump can be obtained from simple batteries or a car battery.

We do not recommend changing metal sheets with terminals for others. Protection against overheating is provided by bimetallic switches. The durability of the apparatus largely depends on the functioning of this element. As a rule, there are more than one thermal switches in the heating element, and one of them controls the characteristics of the liquid, and the second does not allow activation when the tank is empty. In such a situation, the heating element component heats up to a temperature of more than one hundred degrees and breaks the power supply circuit.

To improve the contact of the heating elements switches, a special paste is used, similar to the one applied between the fan and the PC processor.

This sensitive component functions quite simply. When the surrounding space warms up to the set temperature, the contacts of the heating element switch open. But as soon as the temperature drops by 15-30 degrees from this point, electrical conductivity resumes. Unfortunately, it is impossible to find out what type these elements of the heating element belong to, simply by looking at the instructions for the thermopot. However, the surfaces of the elements are always marked so that the optimal replacement can be selected.

As a rule, the manufacturer is not satisfied with a simple overheating protection system and equips the equipment with fuses. These are small tubular elements squeezed tightly against the tank wall or glued to it. When the steel tank heats up to a critical temperature, the heater fuse burns out, and the device will not work unless it is replaced. That is why the equipment should be carefully examined in terms of the presence of such defects.

Also, with the help of a tester, the operability of the bimetallic contact is checked. Before starting the test, the heating element should be evaporated.

When the spirals of the heating components burn out, it is simply unprofitable to repair the equipment. The tank is too complex to disassemble on its own, and the insulation and cables are not cheap enough.

After completing the repair work, the safety of the device should be tested. For this purpose, the resistance between the plug and the reservoir, and between the plug and the outer casing should be determined. In a normal situation, it must be infinite.

Thermopot is a small household appliance that combines the properties of two devices at once - an electric kettle and a thermos.

The main advantage is the ability to boil water and keep its temperature in a given mode, as well as the ability to repair a thermopot with your own hands if necessary.

Note that, despite the presence of a lot of advantages, the thermopot also has specific disadvantages, in particular:

high cost - much more than that of a standard electric kettle;
low boiling rate (compared to electric kettles);
increased power consumption due to constant switching on and the need to work in the mode of maintaining the temperature.

The device consists of a body, external elements of the control panel and internal technical devices.

The body is made of various materials (depending on the unit model):

A combination of these materials is also possible.

The shape of the case also depends on the specific model. Often, this is either a half-cylinder or a rectangle.

For ease of maintenance and care, almost all models are equipped with a removable flask into which water is poured.

Also, the device is equipped with a control panel with buttons that allow you to set certain operating modes.

Since the unit in question combines two traditional devices at once - a kettle and a thermos - there are two heating elements inside at once:

one is directly responsible for bringing water to a boil;
the second performs the function of maintaining the temperature at a given level.

Due to the fact that the thermopot is quite heavy and dimensional, manufacturers supply it with a special button for supplying water. This is very convenient - just place a mug under the drain hole and press the drain button. A special water pump is responsible for pumping water - a pump.

All thermo pots are also equipped with electronic stuffing - namely, a control microcircuit that processes user commands, and a power supply.

The device works in the following order:

water is poured;
the top cover is closed;
a heating element used to boil water heats the water to a temperature of 100 degrees;
as soon as the water reaches the above temperature, the overheating thermal fuse turns off the device;
the water begins to cool down to the temperature set by the user;
the second heating element is included in the "case", designed to maintain a given temperature regime.

If the thermo-pot does not work, you need to familiarize yourself with the circuit diagram.

The circuit of this device is not too complicated - even a non-professional electrician can “read” it.

It can be used to investigate the causes of breakdown of devices from such popular manufacturers as:

S1 and S2 are temperature switches from the KSD 302 series, the first is located in the middle of the stainless steel tank and is connected in series to transmit the supply voltage of 220 Volts, the second is located in the bottom of the thermo-pot - through it the current flows to the main heating element;
F1 - thermal fuse;
ТН2 - an additional coil for heating water, which should be checked to answer the question why the thermo-pot does not keep the temperature;
relay S1.1 connected in parallel with the reboil coil;
ТН1 - spiral of the main heating element;
VT1, VT2 - transistors on which there is a relay for controlling the on and off times, which open under the action of a charged capacitor C3;
C3 - an electrolytic capacitor, charged by pulses from VD6 by briefly pressing the S4 button;
K1 - relay winding through which electric current flows and switches S1.1;
C1, C2, VDS1 - voltage rectifiers supplying the time relay circuit.

C1 serves as a surplus voltage absorber;
C2 - smooths the ripple of the electric current, formed as a result of the operation of the VDS1 bridge rectifier;
some units do not use C1 but a step-down transformer.

Like any other piece of household appliances, a thermopot has a list of the most common problems.

Here are the particular malfunctions of the thermopot and parts, the replacement or repair of which with your own hands, in this case, should be carried out in the first place:

The control panel is completely off, the device itself does not start and does not work.

In the presented case, the cause of the breakdown may be:

thermostat located, depending on the model, either on the bottom or on the side of the device;
fuse;
broken wires and connections.

Only the mode of maintaining the temperature works, while the main boiling of water does not function.

You can fix the breakdown by checking:

bottom thermal switch;
the main heating element designed to heat water up to 100 degrees.

The opposite situation - boiling to "one hundred" works, but heating does not function.

There is only one advice - to check all the elements of the electrical circuit, paying special attention to the board module.

Pressing the water button has no effect.

The problem lies in the pump - you need to disassemble the thermo-pot, following the instructions below, and find out the true cause.

What if the device does not want to turn on, does not heat the water, leaks or does not heat up? In this case, it is recommended to disassemble the unit following these step-by-step instructions:

disconnect the device from the electric current;
drain the water in the inner flask;
turn the unit upside down;
remove the plastic plug from the clips using a flat screwdriver, knife or other improvised item;

remove all screws using a Phillips screwdriver;
then remove the pallet (for the convenience of reassembly, it is recommended to photograph the disassembly process so as not to get confused);
after removing the pallet, access to the water pump will be open, from which you need to remove the hoses that are held on to plastic ties - you can simply cut them off with scissors;
then it is necessary to remove the hoses from the nozzles from the printed circuit board;
then you can start unscrewing the printed circuit board, which is held by small bolts;
there is a gasket under the board - it must be removed to gain access to the heating coil;

View of the board with the cover removed

to gain access to the heating element, unscrew the last 8 screws, then remove the protection;
check the parts that have been accessed using a multimeter in the order indicated later in the article for various types of problems;
for reliability, before reassembling, it is recommended to clean the heating element from scale, as well as inspect the printed circuit board, if necessary, replace the capacitors with new ones;
assemble in the same manner as for disassembly.

There is a certain list of internal parts of the thermal pot, which are recommended to be inspected first.

The 220 Volt mains wire may bend or poorly contact the three-pin connector located inside the case.

First, you need to check directly the wire itself in the "continuity" mode using a multimeter or by connecting the cable to some other device.

If the cable is functional, you should check the presence of voltage at the output after the transformer.

Most models are equipped with two electronic modules:

power supply board;
control board.

In fact, the power board is a power supply unit, from which an electric current of the required parameters is supplied to each element of the thermo-pot.

To repair both boards, you must first inspect them for:

swollen capacitors;
burnt out resistors;
unusable fuses;
torn contact tracks, etc.

All damaged elements must be replaced with new ones, having previously taken care of their purchase on the radio market. Damaged tracks can be repaired by tinning with a household soldering iron.

The most common problem here is a blown fuse. You can identify it by the torn thread inside the glass case.

If the fuse is ok, you should check the resistors and diodes with a tester.

What to do if a thermal sweat starts running or, conversely, nothing happens when you press the water drain button? In this case, you should get to the pump and start testing its performance.

This is done by simple pairwise dialing of contacts.

To check the performance, you can also apply a standard voltage of 12 Volts, taking it, for example, from powerful batteries or from a car battery.

Also, the corresponding voltage is given by the power supplies installed in the system units of personal computers.

If heating or main boiling does not work, it is possible that the malfunction lies in a failed heating element. It is not recommended to repair the heating element yourself - it is easier to buy a new one. The cost of heating coils starts at 2,000 rubles.

Here is a list of the most common problems - with instructions for solving them.

It is not uncommon for a thermopot to constantly boil water. The opposite is also possible - when the unit turns off at a time when the liquids are still far from the beginning of boiling.

The problem is that the thermal switches are faulty. They are located on the bottom of the device and on the side of the case.

The main problem of their inoperability is the application by the manufacturer of a small amount of thermal paste, due to which the thermal relay starts to work incorrectly due to poor contact.

The relay is checked for operability with an ordinary multimeter - for this, it is connected to the contacts of the thermostat and put in the ohmmeter mode. The tester should show a resistance of 0 ohms.

For an additional check, it is recommended to connect the thermostat to the wires and lower it to boiling water. If the ohmmeter readings tend to infinity, the relay is serviceable, otherwise it needs to be replaced.

It is also recommended to check the thermostats if the thermo-pot does not go into heating mode. In the presented situation, you should also check the connecting wires - they can oxidize.

Some people face the following problem - immediately after plugging into the outlet, the thermopot drains water from the flask, begins to hum, and a characteristic burning smell appears. How can this flaw be corrected?

The problem here is the water pump. First, you need to disassemble the thermopot itself (see instructions above) and get to the location of the pump. Next, you should start disassembling the pump.

After unscrewing the two bolts on the pump itself, you can access the impeller and magnet. In order not to buy a new pump, you can fix the old one - for this you need to disconnect the blades from the magnet and clean them of scale with a rag or soft cloth. You should also inspect the magnet itself - tiny metal particles often accumulate on it, which interfere with normal operation.

Video (click to play).

If the specified actions have been performed, but the unit still leaks, you should buy a new pump.

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