Thermex is 50 v DIY repair

In detail: thermex is 50 v DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

TERMEX RZL 30-150VS, IS 30-50V, IR 50-150V - high-quality and technologically advanced water heaters that are mounted in the water supply system and provide rapid heating of water to a predetermined temperature. Using these water heaters, you will always be provided with hot water. But, unfortunately, like all equipment, they are not eternal and from time to time require routine maintenance, and sometimes repair. In this article, we will try to set out in as much detail as possible the step-by-step instructions for repairing TERMEX water heaters with our own hands.

Before proceeding with the repair, we need to understand what exactly we need to replace. To do this, we will make a preliminary inspection for the search for a failed part. The most common reason for a malfunction of any water heater is the failure of the heating element, so this article will focus on replacing the heating element in the TERMEX water heater. These models have the same heating element, so this article is suitable as a guide for repairing Termeks RZL 30-150VS, IS 30-50V, IR 50-150V. Below are the main signs by which you can understand that the heating element has burned out:

  • RCD (residual current device) trips
  • The automatic machine knocks out the plugs
  • The water does not heat up at all or heats up very slowly
  • The water heater hisses and the water comes out cloudy and has an unpleasant odor

If you notice these signs in your water heater, then the first step is to replace the heating element, in 90% of cases this will help. Also, the fact that it is the heating element that does not function can be determined by visual inspection. If the integrity of the shell is lost, periclase is visible (looks like a white powder) and a nichrome spiral, then the element has burned out. But sometimes there are cases when the nichrome spiral burns out inside the shell, in this case the reason will not be so obvious and the tester can check the integrity of the spiral. In any case, the heating element will need to be replaced. We will also list the main reasons for the failure of the heating element below:

Video (click to play).

  • The heating element has exhausted its resource
  • The water heater was turned on without water
  • We left the water heater without operation for a long time, did not drain the water from there
  • Voltage surges in the electrical network, almost all domestic water heaters are designed for 220V +/- 10.

Whatever the reason, the need for repairs is obvious, as it is much cheaper than buying a new boiler. Of course, it is easier and sometimes better to turn to the services of professionals. But this is not always possible, so we will consider the option of replacing the heating element with our own hands.

Before starting any repair, it is necessary to purchase a failed part, in our case it is a heating element. You can go to our commercial section of the site using this link Heating elements for the TERMEX water heater, select and buy the heating element you need. Our company offers only high-quality Heating elements Termeks Italian production of the Thermowatt plant, one of the best manufacturer of heating elements today. By purchasing a heating element manufactured by Thermowatt, you can be sure that, if used correctly, it will work out its due date.

We want to note right away that consistency is extremely important in the work, this is one of the secrets of a successful repair. Follow all the stages one after another, without jumping from one to another, and then everything will go quickly and smoothly. So, we have identified the reason, we will proceed with the repair.

First, we turn off the power to the boiler, that is, simply remove the plug from the outlet. Next, you need to free the container from water, for this:

  • We shut off the supply and output taps
  • We unscrew the nuts of the cold water connecting hose and drain the liquid from there.There will be a little of it here - only the one that remained in the system
  • We unscrew the nuts of the hot water connecting hose and completely drain the liquid directly from the tank

After emptying the water heater, it can be removed. Here it is better to use the help of a partner, since, depending on the displacement, they weigh a lot, even without water.

In order to get to the "insides" of the tank, you need to remove the bottom cover. It is under it that the entire electrician of the water heater is located, so all procedures must be carried out carefully. Pay attention to a little trick - manufacturers often hide the bolts, for example, under a sticker to save it for repair at a service center. Now you can start dismantling the thermostat, wiring and the heating element itself. But before that, it is better to take a photo of the connection of all contacts so that there is no confusion and questions during the installation process. Further actions in stages:

  • We remove all contacts from the heating element
  • Disconnect all fastons from the contacts of the safety thermostat (usually it is gray)
  • We unscrew the nut on which the safety thermostat is held, and remove it to the side
  • We take out the sensors of the protective and regulating thermostat from the hollow tubes in the heating element
  • We unscrew 4 or 6 nuts and remove the fastening bar holding the heating element
  • We take out the heating element from the body of the water heater
  • We visually inspect the heating element for a rupture of the shell

We call the dismantled heating element with a tester to make sure that it burned out. The signal that the heating element is out of order and needs to be replaced is the absence of a sound signal and the absence of resistance readings in ohms on the tester display.

Further, all experts strongly recommend not to immediately install a new heating element, but first thoroughly clean the container, since it, like the rest of the internal parts, is covered with scale. Try to do everything carefully, without damaging the surface of the tank. Also, carefully inspect the magnesium anode, most likely it needs to be replaced, by the way, depending on the hardness of the water, it is recommended to change the magnesium anode annually. You can select and buy magnesium anodes by following this link Magnesium anodes for a water heater.

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Now you can install a new heating element instead of the old one. It is extremely important here that the element is completely similar to the burned-out element, especially in the landing part, and there must also be an identical number of tubes for thermostat sensors. In water heaters TERMEKS RZL 30-150VS, IS 30-50V, IR 50-150V there is a two-zone heating element RF 2000W / 220V (1300W + 700W) copper, vertical, in / out 66052. Two-zone means that on one clamping flange there are two Heating element on 700W and 1300W, but at the same time three contacts come out (one pair of contacts is connected into one). This design will make it possible to implement the possibility of two modes of heating water in the tank - conventional and express heating.

So we bought a similar heating element and it's time to install it in the water heater, then in stages:

  • Be sure to put on a silicone gasket, preferably a new one (it is not expensive, and if there is a leak because of it, problems will increase dramatically)
  • We twist the magnesium anode into a special platform with a thread on the flange
  • TEN with anode and gasket is inserted into the body of the water heater
  • We press the heating element with a fixing bar and tighten with nuts

That is, we carry out the same procedure as for dismantling, but in a different sequence. Next, using the photo of the contact connections, we restore the electrics, close the lid and fasten it with bolts.

With the help of a partner, we install the water heater in place and connect it to the water supply and the electrical network. Now you need to completely fill the tank with water, and at this time carefully observe whether there will be a leak anywhere. If everything is in order, you can turn on and check the boiler for operation.Water heaters TERMEKS RZL 30-150VS, IS 30-50V, IR 50-150V have very practical designs, so replacing the heating element will take no more than 1-2 hours even for a novice master. It is important to follow the sequence and not lose bolts and nuts.

We hope this article is about DIY TERMEX water heater repair will be useful and informative for you.

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The “Termex” models refer to storage type water heaters. The main cause of breakdowns is most often poor-quality water in the pipeline. Unfortunately, because of this, the tank will have to be cleaned quite often. For example, if the water consumption is large, then the system is serviced once a year. However, it does not always make sense to call a specialist, repair of Termeks water heaters can be done by hand, having at your disposal a small baggage of knowledge, tools and spare parts.

Before proceeding with the repair of the boiler with our own hands, we will understand the design features. The device of the water heater is quite simple, the main components are as follows:

Diagram of the device of the Termeks water heater

  • body made of stainless steel sheet;
  • inner tank made of alloy steel, durable and corrosion resistant;
  • the steel flange is a platform on which the device elements are attached: heating element, magnesium anode, thermostat;
  • a large magnesium anode is a metal rod that is coated with a magnesium alloy; thus the element reduces the corrosiveness of the water, protecting the tank and increasing the durability of the water heater;
  • stainless steel tube for hot water outlet;
  • thermal insulation made of high density polyurethane foam;
  • Heating element, which, in fact, heats the water;
  • a thermostat that acts as an automatic water temperature regulator (turns off the boiler when the water has warmed up, and vice versa);
  • stainless steel cold water pipe.

The operation of the water tank is based on the convection principle:

Cold water always enters the storage water heater from below, when heated it rises up, where the hot water intake tube is located.

  • cold water enters the tank through the inlet pipe;
  • the heating element turns on and heats the water to the set temperature (there is a regulator on the dashboard with which the temperature is set);
  • thanks to convection, hot water rises independently to the top of the tank;
  • the hot water outlet pipe is located in the upper part of the device, through which the heated liquid enters the pipeline;
  • when the temperature of the water in the tank drops, the thermostat turns on the heating element, and when it reaches the maximum, turns it off.

Since a boiler is a device with a simple design and principle of operation, it can have only four faults:

If the water heater is shocked, then you need to check it with a multimeter. To do this, place the contacts as in the figures, and set the multimeter to the sound dial mode, there is sound - the heating element needs to be replaced.

  1. Water leak. The cause of this breakdown can be both the rotten body of the water heater and the failure of the heating element. But more often than not, the tank starts to leak due to loose rubber gaskets (they can stick on or simply deteriorate from time to time).
  2. Breakdown of electricity to the case (the tank is shocked). The most common cause of such a malfunction is a burst heating element. But sometimes the ward or control panel fails.
  3. The water in the boiler heats up slowly or does not heat up at all. If the tank does not heat the water at all, then most likely the reason lies in the thermostat (broken) or heating element (burned out), but the control board may also fail, which happens extremely rarely. If the water heats up slowly, then the heating element is covered with scale and it is time to clean it.
  4. The water in the water heater cools down quickly. If this happens, get ready for the fact that you will have to buy a new tank, as the thermal insulation is outdated. Of course, you can try to change it yourself, but it's rather difficult.

Before proceeding with the repair, first collect the necessary tools: a set of keys, an adjustable wrench, electrical tape, various screwdrivers, pliers. After that, turn off the water by turning off the inlet and outlet taps to the water heater. Then drain the water from the boiler tank, disconnect it from the mains.

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The next step is to dismantle the protective cover. If you have a vertically located boiler, then the lid is at the bottom, and in the case of a horizontally located one - on the left or in front.

First, do all of the above, remove the tank cap.

It should be noted that most of the "Termex" models have not one, but two heating elements. So it is imperative to remember how and in what sequence the parts need to be connected... And it is better to photograph the whole process.

To remove the heating elements from the Termeks water heater, remove the top cover by unscrewing the bolt; disconnect all plugs and unscrew the heating elements mounting bolts.

The heating element itself is turned off as follows:

  • after removing the cover, find the safety thermostat, remove the tips from it;
  • also remove the tips (3 pieces) from the heating element;
  • cut the plastic clamp;
  • unscrew the screws while removing the sensor;
  • now disconnect the ribbon and unscrew the four screws;
  • then it is necessary to dismantle the nut on the clamping bar and pull out the heating element.

Do not forget that the heating element does not always need to be changed. If the water in the tank still heats up, but it happens slowly, then, most likely, scale has formed on the heating element. Then dismantle it and descale it. Then install. The problem should go away. Also, do not forget that it is advisable to clean the heating element with chemical means, and not to scrape off the dirt. In the latter case, there is a possibility of damage to the part.

The thermostat in Termeks water heaters is located under the lid, next to one of the heating elements, and its sensor is located inside the tank.

Sometimes the thermostat fails. This element cannot be repaired, it must be replaced.... To replace, you need to make all the preparatory steps, remove the cover, then remove the thermostat. But before dismantling, we recommend that you check this part. To do this, use a lighter to heat the tip of the sensor (copper). If the thermostat is working properly, then you will hear a characteristic click, which means that the protection mechanism has worked and the circuit has opened. Otherwise, you will have to replace the part.

No matter how trite it may sound, but first you need to find where the water comes from. A lot depends on this, since if the tank is rotten, then you will have to buy a new water heater. So:

  • if water oozes from the side seam, then the container is rusted, and repairs will not work;
  • if water comes out from under the lid at the bottom, then you need to disassemble the tank.

If there are traces of leakage in the places where the heating elements are attached, then your water heater is not hopeless and it can be saved by replacing the gasket.

In the case of the second option, complete all preparatory steps, then remove the plastic cover. Next, take a close look at where the water seeps out. If it comes out near the flange, then the rubber gasket has deteriorated. (less often it is a problem with heating elements). Otherwise - the tank is rusted, the boiler can be thrown away. To replace the gaskets, you need to remove the heating element. But it is necessary to carefully consider the heating element itself. If it is cracked, then it is also better to replace it.

If you have checked and replaced all the parts, but the boiler still does not work, then it is quite possible that the electronics are out of order. The control board cannot be repaired, and it will be extremely difficult to find a similar one in a store. Therefore, in this case, we recommend contacting specialists.

In most cases, the "Termeks" water heater can be repaired independently, as it has a fairly simple design and principle of operation. The main causes of breakdown are inoperative heating elements or scale... It is necessary to pay attention to this first of all. If the boiler does not heat the water well, do not rush to the store and buy a new heating element.Perhaps the old one is simply covered with dirt and it is just enough to descale it. If the water heater leaks at the joints or the water in it cools down quickly, then you will have to buy a new device.

Installing a boiler allows you not to depend on utilities: the technician provides the user with hot water around the clock. The Thermex brand is especially popular - due to its ease of installation and affordable cost. But even the Termex water heater is prone to malfunctions. From our article you will find out the causes of breakdowns, what to do when they appear.

The wide range of Thermex allows you to choose a boiler for 100 liters for a large family, for 10-15 liters for use in a small kitchen, etc. The device is a metal heating tank with a heating element inside. The heater is controlled by a relay and a thermostat. The magnesium anode helps soften the tap water.

It is worth noting that modern water heaters are equipped with a control unit that has a self-diagnostic function. The system identifies the faulty unit and displays an error code. Having deciphered the meaning, you can understand where to look for a breakdown and how to fix it yourself.

The video will help you deal with the E1 error:

Other problems occur in the electric water heater:

  • The appliance does not heat up the water or does it for too long.
  • Noise is heard during operation.
  • Runs only for a short time.
  • Does not work, does not turn on.
  • The tank is dripping.
  • Unpleasant smell and color of water.

If you notice one of the signs, then proceed to check and repair.

Consider how to cope with problems on your own.

If the case is vertical, it means that the heating element is at the bottom and you don't have to think about how to remove the cover. In the event of a malfunction, the machine on the dashboard can knock out, and the body can be shocked. If you notice too long heating, the element is overgrown with scale - as a result, heat transfer is reduced.

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Perhaps the part has worn out due to constant use or burned out during a power surge. Read about replacing the heating element in a water heater in a separate article. In it, you will find general diagnostic and functional tests. We will describe the sequence of actions specifically for the Termex brand:

  • Shut off the water supply and drain the tank. To do this, loosen the nut on the hot water connection.
  • Disconnect all hoses, remove the device from the wall.
  • Turn the case over to gain access to the bottom.
  • Many models are equipped with two heating devices. In order not to get confused when connecting, take a picture of the wiring.
  • To access the heating element, you need to disassemble the fasteners.
  • Remove the screws and nuts that hold the part flange.
  • Get it out of the tank.

With a strong formation of scale, the heating element may not come out of the nest. Then carefully clean it with a thin screwdriver.

Before changing the heating element, select a replacement in accordance with the serial number of the model. If your appliance has two heaters, try to distribute the work evenly so that the appliance will last longer.

Magnesium and calcium salts not only build up deposits on the parts, but also settle on the bottom of the tank. Therefore, when switched on, noise may be heard and the circuit breaker may trip. To avoid serious malfunctions, it is necessary to clean the Termeks boiler at least once a year.

  • Prepare the equipment: disconnect from the mains, drain the water.
  • Unscrew the bolts from the bottom and pull out the heating element.
  • Remove limescale deposits from the tank. If it is not dry, it will be easier to remove with a wooden spatula.
  • For cleaning, you can use chemicals such as "Anti-scale". Alternatively, dissolve 25 ml of vinegar in 10 liters of water.
  • The heater can be cleaned in the same solution.
  • If the magnesium anode becomes unusable, replace it.

Due to impurities in the water and scale, the water from the boiler could become cloudy and acquire an unpleasant odor.

Rinse the inner walls with lukewarm water, wipe and connect the appliances.

The main reason is the operation of the RCD. This is possible with a short circuit or current leakage to the case. Moreover:

  • There is no electricity supply. Check the integrity of the mains wire, plug, serviceability of the socket.
  • Faulty water pressure sensor. "Termex" supplies water when pressure is built up in the tank. Therefore, in the event of a malfunction, the part must be replaced.
  • Low pressure in the water supply. It remains to wait for his recovery.
  • Electrical contacts are loose or oxidized. Check and tighten the contacts.

If the case is leaking, urgent action must be taken. Causes:

  • After the purchase of the equipment, a preventive inspection was not carried out.
  • The magnesium anode has not changed for a long time.
  • A large amount of impurities in the water.
  • Leakage of current to the case.
  • High pressure in the pipeline (more than 2 atm), which leads to deformation of the body. It is recommended to install a reduction gear.
  • The gasket is deformed.

To locate the leak, unplug the device and arm yourself with a flashlight. Examine the case carefully. If a leak is found at the pipe connections, drain the water and reconnect the elements.

The gasket may leak. First tighten the screws on the boiler cover. If that doesn't work, install a new gasket.

Is it leaking at the point where the heater is attached to the body?

It is necessary to completely replace it and the flange that holds the heating element. In the event of a depressurization of the tank itself, only a complete replacement will help, or better - the purchase of new equipment.

Have you noticed any problems with your work? Take note of our publication and examine the device. If you are in doubt about your skills, it is better to seek repair from a specialist.

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The world famous manufacturer of water heating equipment Termeks has launched production in Russia. The devices are simple, and a person with minimal locksmith skills can independently repair the Termeks water heaters. This is relevant, since it is not always possible to find service centers in the domestic open spaces. Having carefully studied the technical instructions, you can diagnose malfunctions.

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The oldest concern for the production of hot water equipment for home use has been supplying its products to the country since 1995. It meets all international and Russian standards. The "Termeks" brand also includes the "Champion", "Quadro", "Blitz" devices. That is, their device is identical to the main brand. The Termex hot water equipment uses only electrical elements, wet and closed, as a heater. The product line includes;
  • storage devices of various capacities;
  • flow-through devices;
  • combined, flow-through storage systems.

Timely cleaning and replacement of the anode will extend the life of the main element.

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Regardless of the principle of accumulation and supply of water, the devices have common functional units, which eventually deteriorate, and repair of the Termeks water heater is required:
  1. An accumulator consisting of a shell, an inner tank and an insulating layer between them. The inner vessel is made of galvanized steel or enamelled. Outer sheath made of powder-coated plastic or metal.
  2. Heating complex in the form of one or two open elements and anode to each of them. The electrodes are mounted with fastening on one platform, which can be removed from the outside by unscrewing the fasteners.
  3. Process control equipment - temperature sensor, thermostats, electronic control systems, safety valve.
  4. Mounting gaskets, branch pipes, taps and valves for connecting the device to the system.
  5. Wiring with fuses, shield, and network equipment, RCD and ground loop.

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All internal storage tanks can be either enamelled or galvanized. All of them have a magnesium anode paired with a heating element.

Flow systems use a dry cell in a copper sheath, they do not accept scale, but they are destroyed if there are aluminum parts in the liner. Water passing through the aluminum radiator carries ions that will destroy the copper body of the heater.

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The first sign of a malfunction will be the absence or weak heating of water in the reservoir or flow system. Possible malfunctions are analyzed. Repair of the water heater is required if:
  • there is no signal about the power supply, there is no current in the electrical circuit;
  • there is power, the indicator is on, and the water does not heat up - the heating element is out of order;
  • the thermostat has failed;
  • there are leaks or fistulas;
  • anode replacement is required.
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For self-repair, you will need a minimum set of tools and spare parts for the device - a spare heating element complete with gaskets, a magnesium electrode and seals. To untwist the fasteners, you will need keys, for descaling - a brush, to examine the internal state of the enamel coating - a flashlight. Water heater Termeks 80 liters or another, do-it-yourself repair in a certain sequence:

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Lack of grounding accelerates corrosion of all elements under water. In order not to corrode the tank, flanges are not worn out, a ground loop is necessary.

It should be noted that a leak in the storage tank cannot be eliminated for many reasons. The inner tank is enamelled, welding will destroy it. But another insurmountable difficulty is the three-layer structure, when it is impossible to dismantle the inner tank without damaging the thermal insulation and the upper shell. Therefore, you need to treat the tank with care, knowing that it cannot be repaired.

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The quality of the main water allows an increased content of hardness salts. The concentration of magnesium and calcium salts, harmless to humans, precipitates on the surface of the heating element. The same layer of salts on the inner surface of the tank is not terrible. It increases the protective layer and becomes additional insulation. And the heating element needs to be cleaned annually, since the sediment does not conduct heat, the element overheats and fails. In an acidic solution of acetic or citric acid, the precipitate is destroyed, and the element becomes pure.

As a preventive measure against scale, you can use preliminary softening of water before feeding it into the water heater. For this, there are special water-purifying filters. It is imperative that a filter is placed on the water supply line to remove suspended solids from the water and direct them into the mud sump.

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Even a small 50 liter Termex water heater is repaired by professionals if:
  • the device is under warranty;
  • an emergency shutdown is triggered;
  • the electronic unit has reset the program, restarted only by a specialist.

Sometimes the cause lies in a faulty by-pass valve. If not cleaned regularly, it may become unusable. If the RCD fails, then it must be replaced. But at the same time, the RCD does not allow the system to turn on if a malfunction occurs somewhere in the circuit, the spiral burns out. The RCD is located on the supply cord in front of the plug.

Knowing the device of the water heater, carrying out timely maintenance of it, it is possible to ensure a long maintenance-free period of operation.