Using any water heater, and Ariston is no exception in this case, it is necessary to carry out regular descaling. In order for the unit not to fail in advance, it is recommended to clean it once every six months, and replace the magnesium anode once a year or two. All this can be done with your own hands, and this has already been described earlier in the article "Why and what is a magnesium anode in a water heater for". But before starting to carry out cleaning activities, it is worth learning how to disassemble the Ariston water heater.
These are the minimum preventive measures that you can do at home with your own hands and without the use of special equipment. Of course, when a heater, a thermal sensor fails, or other serious problems arise, you should not risk it and it is better to turn to professionals. The rest - everything depends only on you.
Not only home owners provide themselves with autonomous hot water. More and more residents of apartment buildings prefer to install flow-through or storage water heaters. There are 2 reasons for such unconditional popularity - interruptions in hot water supply, especially in the off-season, and the high cost of hot water supply.
For several years, the Italian boilers Ariston have been popular. They are of high quality, reliability, long service life, if used correctly. Nothing eternal has yet been invented, and therefore repairs sometimes have to be done on their own.
And although a water heater is a rather complex device, its regular cleaning and maintenance can be done independently in just a couple of hours. The main thing is, before starting the actual work, understand not only how the equipment works, but also how to disassemble it correctly.
The most important thing is to completely drain the water from the boiler. On the lower part there are 2 nozzles, one of them enters the boiler, and the other is drained.
Even after the water is completely drained, some of it remains at the bottom of the tank, so place a bowl for the rest before opening the lid.
Since a high-quality drain is the key to the successful outcome of the entire operation, we will dwell on it in more detail.
The procedure depends on the features of a particular model - with a trigger, tee or by means of a check valve.
If, during any manipulations, water does not flow from the return, open the hot water tap to create the necessary air flow, and do not close it until the boiler is empty.
Attention! All work is carried out only after the water heater is disconnected from the power supply!
For those who have no time to read, we have prepared a video instruction on how to disassemble an ariston water heater. Here you will learn about the features of installation, connection to pipes, cleaning, etc.
We repeat once again, all work on the disassembly of the water heater is carried out only when it is completely de-energized.
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A feature of Ariston water heaters is the presence of an oval-shaped flange.
disconnect the boiler from the network;
drain the water through the return pipe;
remove the cover from the bottom of the unit;
carefully pull out the thermostat so as not to damage the gasket;
an oval flange is accessed.
Before starting to pull out the flange, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts on the strip, remove it, pull out the heating element with a scrolling motion, and only then remove the flange. Otherwise, it will not work.
In order to replace and correctly install the flange, take a photograph of its position in the neck of the water heater in advance. Otherwise, water will constantly leak.
Be sure to change the gasket! It should be of high quality, preferably a branded product, designed for 2 years of continuous operation.
After the flange and gaskets have been replaced, the electrical block, internal components, heating elements are cleaned with a sponge, and the magnesium anode is replaced if necessary.
The assembly is carried out in the reverse sequential order so as not to violate the structure and to prevent its failure.
The range of products includes medium class water heaters with improved functional characteristics. The main design feature is that here the flange is bolted in the amount of 4-6 pieces.
disconnect the device from the network;
drain the water;
remove the cover from the bottom of the case;
disconnect the wires from the heating element and unscrew all the nuts;
slightly pressing the heating element inward with a slight scroll, pull it out - clean or change;
unscrew the nuts on the bar and take out the flange;
change it and the gasket.
For those who are used to solving problems on their own, it will not be difficult to disassemble the Ariston water heater and carry out its prevention. By and large, there is nothing difficult in this operation, only diligence and strict adherence to instructions are required. Record all actions carried out with the device in order to subsequently collect everything exactly the opposite.
Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.
Tell me, does the Atlantic Vertigo Steatite 50 model have an overpressure relief valve? And is there a heating indication, a light that lights up when the water heating process starts and goes out after the heating element is turned off. I just heard about the fact that water heaters explode, and you need to watch this indicator on / off. heating element (heating element). And yet, if you use this heater only in summer, and occasionally in winter (for example, on New Year's holidays) and then drain all the water with the disassembly of the device, is there still a high probability of breakdown?
Includes a safety valve. There is an indicator light that will show you if the machine is heating up or not. For the winter, you will have to disassemble and drain the water, otherwise it will not completely drain.
Atlantic Steatite Slim VM 80 l. and Elite 80 liters. differ, among other things, in power and the presence of a magnesium anode in Slim. As far as I understand, with dry heating oil, the absence of a magnesium anode is not critical. But the power for a country house is better less, about 1500, so as not to bounce?
The presence of an anode is required, the tank is steel and enamelled.The manufacturer requires the condition of the anode to be checked every 1.5-2 years. The question is what will survive or not. You need to look at how much power is allocated to the house and count the entire connected load.
I want to buy an electric storage water heater Atlantic 100 liters S4CM. What can you say about him?
Dry Teng, 7-year tank warranty, 2-year electrics warranty. Ideal for hard water.
On the Atlantik storage water heater there are 80 liters of heating element, as I understand it, 2 kW? This is good. And what do they write about additional protection? Judging by the advertisement, some potential is supplied to the anode. Is it electrochemical protection? Tell me another thing - how safe is it to raise the temperature to the maximum?
The factory setting on most thermostats is 70-75 degrees. Over time, it changes upward. There is an opinion that heating at the maximum temperature is bad. I believe that you need to heat the way you want. That is why it is a technique, to exploit it. In addition, the higher the temperature of heating the water, the less bacteria will grow inside the water heater.
I have a storage boiler Atlantic Steatite Сube VM 100 S4CM, steatite (dry) heating element. Dual-mode 1.2 kw and 2.4 kw. It has 2 thermostats: protective and regulating the heating temperature. Worked for 2 years in 2.4 kW mode at maximum heating. Breakdown: first began to knock out the protective thermostat. Then the place where the neutral wire was attached melted in it. Replaced the thermostat with a new one. Now, in the 2.4 kW mode, the installation wires inside are very hot, both are zero and phase. In the 1.2 kW mode, they do not heat up. Copper wires 4 squares go from the 16A machine to the boiler. These wires do not heat up. What could be the reason for the overheating of the wires inside the unit, given that the contacts are all connected tightly, not loosened?
Unfortunately, we do not have the opportunity to consult on such narrow technical issues remotely, since it is necessary to check everything on the spot, it is recommended to call a master.
I have an Atlantic 50 liter electric water heater, it has worked perfectly since 2007, but one evening I noticed that water was dripping from it. Advise how it can be corrected (if possible), or call specialists?
If it leaks through the gasket, replace it.
Boiler Atlantic Round Standart 50. The problem is that it heats the water to high boiling water and for some reason does not turn off automatically for about 4 hours. The temperature sensor on the body indicates more than average, although it is set to a minimum. Is this the norm? Or a breakdown of the thermostat?
No, this is not the norm, most likely the problem is in the thermostat, but other malfunctions are possible, for example, the temperature sensor could fail. An inspection is necessary for an accurate diagnosis.
Is it possible to connect an electric boiler and an Atlantic 80 liter boiler in one bundle? Theoretically, I myself understand that I cannot do that when I looked at the connection diagram. Why do I want it? So that all the electrics are connected to one place, and the boiler controls the heating process of itself and the water heater. For example, you need to set the heating time for the boiler, and at this time the boiler turns off the heating and heats the EVH to the full power.
This is an electric water heater. It can only be “connected” to the boiler with wires. In the sense, both he and the boiler have a certain electrical power. You are planning a boiler of 6 kW, EVN - 2.4 kW. Do you have these allocated 10 kW (at least turn on the kettle) of electrical power? There is an option to heat hot water supply in an indirect heating boiler using an electric boiler. There is a double benefit - less power is needed and the water heats up much faster.
If water is leaking from the inner blue plastic that contains the cold water pipe, what should be done in this case? Boiler Atlantic Opro VM 100 series.
It is necessary to establish the exact location of the leak, pipes and connections can be replaced, repairing a tank leak is usually not cost-effective and short-lived. If the leak is not large, condensation is possible.
Is the valve itself in good working order? If it is serviceable and installed correctly, in any case, hot water should not pass through it. Well, maybe a little, if it works. Vertical model, indicator and regulator at the bottom.It is necessary to completely fill the device (you need taps for both nozzles), disconnect from the system and open both taps. From the first it will globally gush, and in the second it will suck in air. The first is the cold water inlet, the second is the hot water outlet.
What is the device and principle of operation of the Atlantic Steatite Exclusive 200 storage water heater?
Conventionally, all models, the installation of which is more correctly entrusted to specialists, can be divided into two types: "Dry" - steatite heating elements in flasks "Wet" - copper heating elements without flasks.
How do "dry" steatite heating elements differ from steel tubular heaters that are used by other manufacturers in "dry" models?
Steatite is an ideal natural material for electrical equipment. It has very high physical characteristics, mechanical strength and stability. Withstands steatite temperatures over 1000C, does not burn and has excellent thermal conductivity. Compared to steel heaters, steatite elements have a larger heat transfer area, which allows them to heat water faster.
How many liters of hot water comes out of the Atlantik 100 liter water heater?
When water is drawn from a hot tap at the point of consumption, the volume of water heated to the maximum temperature is about 3/4 of the total volume of the device. The remaining 1/4 is water from the layer where heated water is mixed with incoming cold water. The amount of outgoing hot water depends on the intensity of the flow through the EWH and the temperature of the incoming water.
Why does the heating time increase during the cold season?
This is due to a decrease in the temperature of the incoming cold water supply.
What is the maximum water heating temperature?
The maximum heating temperature is 63 ± 30 C.
Why is there no scale on the temperature gauge?
The temperature gauge is designed to display the heating or cooling process of water in the device. It is not an accurate measuring instrument.
Do I need to disconnect the Atlantic 50 liters boiler from the mains after each heating?
No. The unit works in automatic mode. When the temperature set on the thermostat is reached, the contact opens and the voltage is removed from the heating element, the device turns off. When cooling down, the contact closes and voltage is applied to the heating element.
What is the power consumption during the operation of the electric water heater Atlantic Vertigo Steatite 100?
The amount of consumed electricity depends on the intensity of operation of the device, as well as the temperature of the cold liquid entering it.
What is the safety valve for the 80 liter Atlantic model for? Why is it dripping from it?
The safety valve is designed to prevent liquid from flowing out of the tank in the absence of it in the cold water supply riser, as well as to relieve excess pressure that forms in the tank when the heated water expands. The pressure is released by dropping a small amount of it from a special hole when the pressure in the tank reaches 8 atm. Installing the valve supplied with the device
How much volume can the relief valve bleed out on the Atlantic Steatite Elite 80?
It depends on the intensity of operation - the more often the device is turned on in heating, the more liquid will be discharged. It also depends on the pressure in the cold water supply riser - the higher the pressure in the riser, the less time it takes to reach the pressure in the tank, at which the discharge occurs.
The Steatite Cube 100 model is in operation. What is a magnesium anode for and why should it be periodically replaced?
The purpose of the magnesium anode is to increase the reliability and improve the operating conditions of the unit by protecting the steel tank from corrosion and preventing the formation of a dense scale deposit on the copper heating element. The protection of the steel tank from corrosion lies in the fact that during the electrochemical interaction of several metals in an aqueous solution, corrosion of a metal with a lower
What is the frequency of replacement of the magnesium anode for the Atlantik boiler?
Replacement frequency for model N4E, N4, PC, S3S, D400-1-M, Round VMR, Delfa N4L, Aston, Welcome - 12 months. When using the device in production, in the service sector and in public catering - 6 months.
According to BusinesStat estimates, about 22 million domestic water heaters are currently in use in Russia, and by 2014 their number will approach 25 million. That's a lot, isn't it? Many of these water heaters have been serving for more than a year, and sooner or later the owners will face the issue of repair. What, then, to do? Call the technician from the service center? Perhaps this is the easiest and most expensive way.
You can go the other way, i.e. repair the water heater with your own hands. How can this be done? Not so difficult as it seems at first glance, carefully read the purpose of the main elements, arm yourself with the necessary tools and, following the recommendations from the article, proceed with the repair.
Let's look at the main elements of electric water heaters, both storage and flow type. Let's make a reservation right away that we still won't repair the gas water heater - the cost of an error can be very high. Therefore, it is better to entrust the repair of gas water heaters to authorized service centers.
So, if we have to, for example, repair a storage-type Ariston water heater, we need to know its main components. The picture above will help us with this, on it all the elements are indicated and named. To repair the Termeks water heater with our own hands, we will take a closer look at their purpose in the boiler:
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In addition to the above, some water heaters are equipped with electronic monitoring and control circuits. In the event of a failure, the boiler will not work, but at least basic knowledge of electronics is already needed to repair it. If they are, then in most cases, you can repair the Ariston water heater with your own hands. The description of the operation of the electronic circuit and the methods of repair is not included in the plans of this article, perhaps in the near future we will consider this too.
Schematic diagram of switching on a "conventional" boiler
If the problem is in the electronic board, it can be circumvented and the boiler will work. As you can see from the schematic, the board is connected in parallel with the heating element power circuit. If you want and have basic concepts in electrical engineering, you can turn it off and connect the circuit as in conventional water heaters. But if you do not have such skills or you doubt the success of your plans, you should not start experimenting.
The circuit for switching on a boiler with an electrical board is indicated by number 6.
Other designations: 1 - control thermostat; 2 - control thermostat; 3 - indicator of turning on the heating element, a light that glows when water heating is turned on; 4 - heating element; 5 - grounding.
The device of instantaneous water heaters is practically identical to that described above. The main difference is the absence of a storage tank and more powerful heating elements. Therefore, we will not consider the units of an instantaneous water heater and will not repeat ourselves.
Heating element for repair of water heaters Real
The water heater is included in the network, but the indicator lamp for the heating element does not shine and the water does not heat up? Then the procedure for determining the malfunction is as follows:
We take a combined measuring device (tester), set it on the voltage measuring scale of 220-250V and make measurements at the terminals of the cable and thermostat connection, if the voltage is normal, we measure the potential directly at the heating element terminals.If the voltage at the terminals of the heating element is normal, most likely the heating element itself is out of order.
We disconnect our water heater from the electrical network and put the tester on the resistance measurement scale (Ohm), disconnect our heating element from the thermostat (in most models, a rather simple procedure - we remove the terminals with wires so that the ends of the heating element are "bare"). We measure the resistance at the contacts of the heating element, while accuracy is not important to us, this is not a motor winding. If the element is working properly, the device will show us a certain amount of resistance, if there is no indication, we remove the heating element and go to the store for a new one, it cannot be repaired. You can find out in more detail how to replace the heating element in a water heater from the article on our website.
This procedure for determining a malfunction of a heating element is identical for all types of water heaters, both instantaneous and storage.
Signs of a malfunction of the thermostat and thermostat are the absence of the heating element turning on in the presence of voltage, as well as if the control thermostat is triggered. To check the operation of the thermostat, we will have to remove it, how - you can find out from the article, which describes the procedure for installing and repairing water heaters, it is on the website.
So, the thermostat was removed. We take the device, put it on the measurement of resistance (Ohm). Set the position of the adjusting knob to Max and measure it on the thermostat contacts (input / output). If our tester does not respond, the element is defective, it cannot be repaired. It will be necessary to purchase and install its analogue.
If the control thermostat is triggered, then the procedure for determining the malfunction is as follows. We put the removed thermostat in the Min position and fix the measuring probes of the device on the contacts, if you are not alone - let someone hold it. Take a lighter and heat the thermostat flask / rod. If it is working properly, the picture will be as follows: the thermal relay is triggered and opens the circuit, the resistance on the contacts should tend to infinity, i.e. such as if the probes of the device are spread apart. If this does not happen - the thermal relay is scrapped, we go to get a new one, because this item cannot be repaired.
The most common malfunction, in addition to the electrical components of the boiler, is a leak. There may be two reasons:
tank leak;
leak from under the flange, which secures the heating element.
The reasons that caused the tank to leak can be: lack of grounding (which accelerated electrical corrosion), lack of proper maintenance, natural wear and tear.
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It is not possible to repair the tank for the following reasons:
the outer casing and the tank are practically inseparable, dismantling, so that it is almost impossible not to damage the shell;
the inner tank is usually made of stainless steel with a thickness of 1 - 2 mm or in more expensive models made of copper, in rare cases it is made of plastic. There is very little you can do with the latter. You can still tinker with a copper tank and try to solder it, but, as a rule, such tanks are very durable due to their increased resistance to corrosion. Welding such a thin stainless steel at home is not realistic, so you should not waste time and effort.
to everything else, the modern coating of tanks in storage water heaters is glass enamel, which is damaged during welding. It is not realistic to restore it at home, which means that the leak is inevitable in the near future.
The only way out of this situation is to replace the internal tank with a new one if your model allows such a replacement and, moreover, if you find an analogue. But it will be easier to buy a new water heater.
If a leak is detected from under the flange, then there are no particular difficulties for repairing the Termeks water heater, or any other. It is enough to drain the water from the water heater, remove the gasket and visually determine its wear or damage.We take it with us and go shopping in search of a similar one. Changing and using the boiler further. By the way, Onyx offers pipeline parts, including steel flanges, at reasonable prices.
These are the main malfunctions of electric water heaters. As you can see, flowing ones will have less of them, but it also costs more.
An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.
If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced master can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.
To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.
An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.
The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.
Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.
The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.
To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is specifically designed to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.
As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.
Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.
Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.
Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.
The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.
The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.
Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.
First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.
If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.
If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.
Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.
To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.
After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.
Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.
If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.
A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.
The water heater tank most often leaks if:
damage to the internal tank has occurred;
the heating element has deteriorated;
leaky gasket.
If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.
A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.
If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.
Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.
On horizontal type devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.
After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.
If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.
The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:
increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.
If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:
Disconnect the device from the power supply.
Remove the protective cover.
Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
Shut off cold water supply.
Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
Unscrew the screws that hold the heating element.
Remove the heating element and descale it.
Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
Rinse the device thoroughly.
Check the health of the magnesium anode.
If necessary, replace this element immediately.
Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
Install the heating element in place.
Reassemble the device.
Check the tightness of all fasteners.
Connect the water heater to the power supply.
Check for grounding.
The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.
This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.
A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:
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It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center. Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.
The problem of the periodic lack of hot water supply in apartment buildings and private houses can be easily solved with the help of water heaters. Among the popular models are Ariston devices, which are of good quality and relatively low cost. However, even high-quality devices can fail for one reason or another. This article will focus on the intricacies of the repair process for Ariston water heaters.
Ariston boilers are very popular all over the world. Water heaters of this brand are of good quality, but this does not exclude the possibility of breakage of any elements. First of all, malfunctions arise as a result of exposure to low-quality water with a large amount of impurities. The second negative factor is power outages, which can cause sudden surges in the power grid.
The weakest points in Ariston boilers, according to experts, are the heater (TEN), magnesium anode and safety valve. Breakdowns of these elements do not require special skill to fix them. It is enough to know the design features of the device and carefully follow all the repair instructions.
Malfunctions in the operation of Ariston water heaters are most often associated with the failure of certain elements located inside the case. To fix the device with your own hands, first of all, you need to be able to properly disassemble the device in order to gain access to the broken parts.
Ariston electric boilers are of two types: flow and storage. Accumulative models have a tank with a volume of 10 liters or more, into which water enters. After the water in the container warms up to the required temperature, you can start using it. Flow models carry out instant heating of water and its uninterrupted supply through the tap, already hot. Such appliances are not equipped with water storage tanks.
Storage devices can be roughly divided into two categories, which differ in the size of the tank. Small-sized structures with a water capacity of up to 30 liters are usually installed in the kitchen. Such appliances can provide only a small amount of hot water.
For installation in bathrooms, models with a tank of 80 or 100 liters are mainly used.
Boilers with a capacity of 50 liters are also in demand, as they can provide hot water for 15 minutes, which is enough for taking water in the shower.
The most common breakdowns of storage-type Ariston boilers. Let's consider the design of such devices in more detail:
the device is equipped with an external protective case, which is most often made of stainless steel;
there are fasteners on the body that are designed to fix the device to the wall;
internal stainless steel tank, which is designed to accumulate water;
a heating element that brings the water to the desired temperature;
the thermostat is responsible for automating the process of heating the liquid by controlling its temperature;
an electronic relay ensures that the heater is turned off by a signal from the thermostat when the required water temperature is reached;
the magnesium anode plays the role of protection against corrosive formations;
a safety (safety) valve prevents the boiler from breaking down in the event of a sudden change in pressure in the tank due to water heating to a high temperature;
a tube with a splitter, through which cold water enters the tank;
there are several paws on the case, which shine when the device is turned on to the network;
control panel on the outside of the case, which is equipped with more expensive devices.
Before proceeding with the repair of equipment, it is important to accurately identify the cause of the problem. The most common problems encountered during boiler operation are as follows:
the water in the tank began to heat up very slowly;
the boiler emits uncharacteristic sounds, which can be expressed in crackling, squeaking and hissing;
The heating element heats the water to a temperature that is higher than the set one;
the water does not heat up and remains cold;
a container for water intake is flowing;
when the boiler is connected to the mains, the voltage indicator does not light up;
the voltage indicator light is on, but the device does not work, as the blocking is triggered;
the control panel has gone out or all the lights are flashing.
Long-term heating of water is most often associated with the formation of plaque on the heating element. The second reason may be out of order thermostat settings.
Abnormal sounds during operation of the device may be caused by failure of the safety valve. And also extraneous noises can occur if the tank is rusted and leaks, or a lot of scale has accumulated inside.
Video (click to play).
Strong overheating of the water is associated with a problem in the operation of the thermostat - the element is out of order, or the settings are out of order. If the water does not heat up at all, then the reason is related to the breakdown of the heating element. In the event that the boiler starts to drip, it is first of all recommended to carefully inspect the body of the device, as it could rust. If the tank has leaked from the bottom, this may be due to improper installation of the water heater.
