Injection pump kia bongo 3 DIY repair

In detail: injection pump kia bongo 3 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Prices 8200. 12000 rub.

Timing 2. 4 days

The Kia Bongo injection pump is one of the most important units in the fuel system of a car. Its function is to supply the required portion of fuel at a certain moment into the diesel cylinders under the required pressure. Quite often, the failure of the injection pump becomes the cause of a car malfunction.

The repair of the injection pump on the Kia Bongo 3 can be caused by several reasons. One of them is the destruction of the high pressure fuel pump and the failure of the entire fuel system. This damage is caused by the high sensitivity of the engine to the quality of the diesel fuel used. After about 100 thousand km of run, the plunger pair of the high-pressure fuel pump wears out, while forming metal chips. Actively spreading through the nodes of the fuel system, it clogs the injectors, which is the reason for the combustion of electronic boards on them. This malfunction is easy to notice by its characteristic external signs: stable operation of the engine at idle speed, but with the development of revolutions, it starts to stall, while vibrating strongly, and movement on the car becomes impossible. Such a breakdown is eliminated from the Kia Bongo by replacing the injection pump and the fuel system as a whole. But you can also protect your car from this by installing additional filters and a separator for visual control of the quality of diesel fuel supplied to the engine and the appearance of chips in the fuel system.

Other reasons for repairing injection pumps on the Kia Bongo can be:

poor start of a hot engine due to clogging or jamming of the e / m valve installed on the injection pump and controlling the fuel supply. If this valve malfunctions, it is replaced;
overheating of the engine. This process can be controlled by adding coolant if necessary.

Video (click to play).

For the most accurate adjustment and diagnostics, the injection pump should be repaired at a special fuel stand, using professional equipment. Diesel center BOSCH specializes in the repair of fuel injection pumps for Kia Bongo and other car models, performs full diagnostics of all components and systems, replaces the necessary parts and fully configures the equipment. We have over 16 years of experience. Clients receive a one-year warranty for all types of work performed.

Everything is possible, but for now I am worried about why the injection pump pumps the solarium into the return line

Maybe I didn't understand what. So the pump pumps 90 percent into the return line. And almost nothing on the ramp.

But at least something has to go to the ramp, at least something must go, the tube is turned away from the pump, I completely twist with the starter, there is nothing at all, I take off everything in the return line, I put it in a vice, it wanders both on the ramp and in the return line, that's the problem, I'll go with KIA BONGO since lunchtime already put the pump 3 on the truth, he drove the shavings of the nerves on the aisle, I will drag it out of the garage and burn him fuck,

But at least something must go to feed the ramp, the tube is turned away from the pump, I completely twist it with a starter, there is nothing at all, everything goes to the return line

Do you turn the starter through the ignition key or something else? The supply of part of the fuel from the low-pressure pump to the high-pressure pump (both are in the high-pressure fuel pump) is controlled by the IMV valve and this is the valve and not the sensor as many people confuse it, the pressure sensor is in the rail.Also, on the one hundred side where the IMV stands, there is an emergency valve in it, a rubber ring that breaks for many over time. The IMV is electronically controlled, i.e. if the system does not like something, then this valve will be closed and there will be no start (fuel flow to the injectors). I'm talking about the fact that the System with all sensors and feedbacks must be in good working order and connected, otherwise the "kin" will not be. Well, first of all, let's give the error codes, and then you can think about it, otherwise you can change everything up to the car without understanding it.

I'm talking about the fact that the System with all sensors and feedbacks must be in good working order and connected, otherwise the "kin" will not be.

And I'm talking about shutting down the system. Those. remove the connector from the IMV and check if the system is at fault? After all, in a vice shakes without a system.

_{I rearranged the pump, it seems that the pressure appeared, but it still does not start, the 3 nozzle pours, muffled its exit from the ramp, it still does not start, the feeling is as if there is still not enough pressure, I spray ether into the removed pipe, the reptile works, I stop splashing immediately stalls , I turn off the tubes from the force pressure only in one which I turn off first, before it seemed like when I changed the force I was pumping like there was pressure on everyone, or did I have a glitch? although reasoning logically I unscrewed one pressure should fall on everyone, And what about the valve} IMV when there is no current on it, it is open, the current was applied, it closed and the diesel fuel went to the return line, checked it empirically.

IMV when there is no current on it, it is open, the current was applied, it closed and the solarium went to the return line, checked it empirically

And how did you supply the current? Battery?

Yes, of course I did it, it’s possible only for a short time from the battery, everything works completely closed, I tried it and only 5 volts from the connector, everything works on the removed pump, that is. the solarium goes to the ramp and to the return line.

Maybe the pressure sensor is knocking? Disable it.

And when is 5V on the connector? How did you measure it? According to the diagram, the voltage from the battery. The block supplies the mass in a modulated manner.

until you pull the force out into the street and see it splashing or not, you won't start

the valve is stuck, the needle does not move, the valve is poured, the pressure in the ramp is small, well, what is it that blew it all 100%

Today I changed all the fuel hoses to rubber ones, with the return line removed from the high-pressure fuel pump, shook the pear. And I saw a trickle from the fuel pump return line.

Post has been editedmix55: 24 September 2017 - 06:38

Refurbished injection pump. Should I take it?

I searched by topic, nothing like it was found. If anything, do not kick too much.

So, the crux of the problem. The injectors grunted. I opened it and found steel shavings under a microscope. I took new nozzles. Pull fate for. ahem. in general, I decided not to risk it, and was puzzled by the replacement of the injection pump. On the existential side, they found a pump for 27 rubles. The pump came, opened the box in the store, was slightly upset. The injection pump is not new. Obviously restored. But - it was not restored in Russia, because the box with the inscription “made in Korea”, the office is called Dashi. And, as an amortization insert, Korean newspapers were used, where not only words, English letters can not be found. What leads to the idea of the intervention of Korean craftsmen)

In general, now doubts gnaw - it is worth installing a restored pump, or invest another forty rubles, and take a new injection pump. Share your thoughts, dear

Post has been edited by Oleg03: Yesterday, 05:32

I searched by topic, nothing like it was found. If anything, do not kick too much.
So, the crux of the problem. The injectors grunted. I opened it and found steel shavings under a microscope. I took new nozzles. Pull fate for. ahem. in general, I decided not to risk it, and was puzzled by the replacement of the injection pump. On the existential side, they found a pump for 27 rubles. The pump came, opened the box in the store, was slightly upset. The injection pump is not new. Obviously restored. But - it was not restored in Russia, because the box with the inscription “made in Korea”, the office is called Dashi.And, as an amortization insert, Korean newspapers were used, where not only words, English letters can not be found. What leads to the idea of the intervention of Korean craftsmen)
In general, now doubts gnaw - it is worth installing a restored pump, or invest another forty rubles, and take a new injection pump. Share your thoughts, dear

J3 engine will not start (minibus KIA BONGO III_) - page 1 - Diesel engines of Korea cars - Diesel operator - All about diesel engines

1119 - Solenoid valve for fuel supply control; 1120 - Malfunction in the fuel control solenoid valve circuit; 1640 - Main relay of the injection system.

The master said correctly.
I advise you to find a service for the repair of modern DELPHI fuel equipment and apply there for repair. Your injectors are being repaired, the price of the issue is about 4.5 tons / piece, the pump must be tested at the stand, it is better to disassemble and check the wear of the rubbing parts, if necessary, replace, the cost of repair is about 8-10 tons. without removal / installation and replacement parts. Flush the rail, fuel lines, tank (flushing the rail and fuel lines is most often included in the cost of repairing the injectors). If the pump is completely killed, then the contract costs about 37-40t.r. from the officials twice as expensive.

Image - Injection pump kia bongo 3 DIY repair

Good question! It seems to me that it is better to disassemble and see if it’s just dirt or a speck where.

Do you have any specialists in mind?
BONGO III 4wd, 2-cab, 2900turbodiesel, 2006

Many fellow drivers watched and shrugged off their hands! And they sinned on the suction, and changed the pumping with a hose, it was just superfluous, I sprayed all the pipelines with a special liquid to understand whether there was a suction or not. Replaced now pumping by 100% does not help, it still blows smoke and detonates. Yes, maybe the mesh is only her in the injection pump, I don't see
There is no literature!
I don't want to buy a bunch of spare parts!
On all forums I read no one has such a problem I have not found!

Added by (19.03.2011, 03:04)
———————————————
and if the pumping pump in the high-pressure fuel pump or a mesh, can this problem be eliminated without removing the high-pressure fuel pump?
Andrey

I will also add that there is no information on this particular car, I am guided only by analogy with others.

Roman123,
On a muffled car 5 volts. There are no changes. The wiring has been checked and gutted from start to finish. I understood about the nozzles, but that's another question.

mybisarvl,
we will try to order the sensor. (I don’t know the truth yet where) I started it not on the air, but on the carburetor cleaner. I just wrote so that there would be no questions. Yes, and wound up a couple of times. As for the sprayers, thanks for the advice, I'll try.
I would at least bring it to a state so that it doesn’t go deaf, and then we’ll figure it out. And what does it mean for a computer to indicate a replacement? All the same dear. On a new computer, only the nozzles need to be registered (is this irrelevant?), But otherwise behaves the same.

Should the pressure sensor have a reference voltage from the computer? Never noticed this on other machines before.

Everything is possible, but for now I am worried about why the injection pump pumps the solarium into the return line

Maybe I didn't understand what. So the pump pumps 90 percent into the return line. And almost nothing on the ramp.

But at least something must go to feed the ramp, the tube is turned away from the pump, I completely twist it with a starter, there is nothing at all, everything goes to the return line

Do you turn the starter through the ignition key or something else? The supply of part of the fuel from the low-pressure pump to the high-pressure pump (both are in the high-pressure fuel pump) is controlled by the IMV valve and this is the valve and not the sensor as many people confuse it, the pressure sensor is in the rail. Also, on the one hundred side where the IMV stands, there is an emergency valve in it, a rubber ring that breaks for many over time. The IMV is electronically controlled, i.e. if the system does not like something, then this valve will be closed and there will be no start (fuel flow to the injectors). I'm talking about the fact that the System with all sensors and feedbacks must be in good working order and connected, otherwise the "kin" will not be. Well, first of all, let's give the error codes, and then you can think about it, otherwise you can change everything up to the car without understanding it.

I'm talking about the fact that the System with all sensors and feedbacks must be in good working order and connected, otherwise the "kin" will not be.

And I'm talking about shutting down the system. Those. remove the connector from the IMV and check if the system is at fault? After all, in a vice shakes without a system.

IMV when there is no current on it, it is open, the current was applied, it closed and the solarium went to the return line, checked it empirically

And how did you supply the current? Battery?

Maybe the pressure sensor is knocking? Disable it.

And when is 5V on the connector? How did you measure it? According to the diagram, the voltage from the battery. The block supplies the mass in a modulated manner.

until you pull the force out into the street and see it splashing or not, you won't start

the valve is stuck, the needle does not move, the valve is poured, the pressure in the ramp is small, well, what is it that blew it all 100%

Today I changed all the fuel hoses to rubber ones, with the return line removed from the high-pressure fuel pump, shook the pear. And I saw a trickle from the fuel pump return line.

Post has been editedmix55: 24 September 2017 - 06:38

Refurbished injection pump. Should I take it?

I searched by topic, nothing like it was found. If anything, do not kick too much.

In general, now doubts gnaw - it is worth installing a restored pump, or invest another forty rubles, and take a new injection pump. Share your thoughts, dear

Post has been edited by Oleg03: Yesterday, 05:32

I searched by topic, nothing like it was found. If anything, do not kick too much.
So, the crux of the problem. The injectors grunted. I opened it and found steel shavings under a microscope. I took new nozzles. Pull fate for. ahem. in general, I decided not to risk it, and was puzzled by the replacement of the injection pump. On the existential side, they found a pump for 27 rubles.The pump came, opened the box in the store, was slightly upset. The injection pump is not new. Obviously restored. But - it was not restored in Russia, because the box with the inscription “made in Korea”, the office is called Dashi. And, as an amortization insert, Korean newspapers were used, where not only words, English letters can not be found. What leads to the idea of the intervention of Korean craftsmen)
In general, now doubts gnaw - it is worth installing a restored pump, or invest another forty rubles, and take a new injection pump. Share your thoughts, dear

120,000 out of work.
Moreover, on another car from our city, the injection pump and injectors were replaced, it was enough for one day.

No shavings.
How to understand not sealed in the return line?

In short, they made it so that the pressure in the system was, it starts with half a kick, but only in the garage, because It 'warm over there.
On the street, if he stood, he didn't want to, it was -5 on the street.

Does the J3 engine have glow plugs, if so, where to find them. They climbed the whole engine, but did not find it.
Is there a temperature sensor on sale and its price?

Unfortunately, the quality of Russian fuel that we buy at gas stations often leaves much to be desired ... Well, sometimes it is completely incompatible with the viability of even mechanical fuel injectors and pumps that were installed on the previous generation engines! What are the details of the Common Rail system, with their precision accuracy and intolerance to water and sulfur entering the power system with our fuel.
Even with the timely replacement of filter elements in the power system, no one is safe from a portion of incomprehensible rubbish instead of diesel fuel. In our memory, instead of “solarium,” we came across an unimaginable cloudy substance with the smell of rotten herring, which refused to burn even on a cloth soaked in it.
This engine, installed on the Kia Bongo 3, Hyundai Porter 2 models, uses fuel system components manufactured by Delphi (Delphi, Delphi),

The filter consists of a preliminary settling tank with an annular separator of moisture and coarse dirt, equipped with a transparent flask for visual control of the presence of dirt and water; magnetic rings to retain rust and metal particles, the main filter element and an electric fuel heater with a temperature sensor.

When choosing a place for installation, we were guided by the convenience of service and easy access to the filter and its parts. It is most convenient to place the filter sump next to the standard fuel filter, on the car frame under the left rear corner of the cab, in plain sight, it is easier to maintain and easier to install the product.

To install the filter, you need a steel plate with holes, to which the filter body itself will be bolted through the plastic bracket that comes with it. The plate has a thickness of 3 mm and is attached to the frame by welding, followed by treatment of the welding points with an anti-corrosion compound. It is possible to install the separator filter through the adapter bracket into the technological holes already in the frame, this greatly simplifies the installation and makes it possible to do this work independently.

The filter housing is attached to the plate with bolts, the filter itself is connected to the power system with standard rubber hoses on worm clamps through the fittings included in the delivery set. The heating system is connected in parallel to the standard fuel heater on the fine filter housing. The connection points are sealed, the connection is made through an additional sealed connector, the wires are placed in a special corrugated protective sheath and carefully fixed with plastic clamps, excluding the possibility of damage, short circuit or breakage.

With easy access, it is always possible to monitor the condition of the fuel entering the engine and, if necessary, remove contaminants that appear in the transparent flask. We also offer consumables (cartridges) for timely replacement. The cost and availability of consumables, as well as the filters themselves, can be clarified by calling the phone number indicated on our website.

Maybe I will repeat myself, but I will say it again - it is better (and cheaper.) To prevent possible causes of an expensive breakdown than to change the fuel pump and injectors later. not cheap, by the way. And sometimes it is possible to overhaul an engine that has failed due to incorrect fuel supply (after all, an injector can “die” not only in a closed state, simply stopping the fuel supply, but also in an open state, “pouring in” rather than spraying “diesel fuel” into cylinder, which will cause the piston to burn out and complete engine failure, up to a complete loss of maintainability).
Good luck and trouble-free operation of your iron horse!
“RSV Service Moscow.
* - "solarium", diesel fuel

Oil change - 700
Replacing antifreeze (coolant) - 800
Replacing glow plugs - 2400
Replacing the valve cover gasket - 6500
Replacing the nozzle - 1200
Replacing the camshaft lion. or right. - 13000
Replacing the camshaft bed - 13000
Replacing the cylinder head (cylinder head) - 17500
Replacing valves on a removed cylinder head - 300
Replacing the valve guides - 500
Replacement of hydraulic lifters - 13500
Replacement of valve stem seals - 18300 with removal of 22300
Replacement of rockers - 13000
Replacing the thermostat - 600
Replacement of injection pump - 6500
Turbine replacement (turbocharger) - 5500
Turbine actuator replacement - 1200
Intercooler replacement - 2500
Timing replacement (chains, dampers and tensioner) - 14000
Timing replacement (belts and rollers) -
Replacing the upper timing chain - 3800
Replacing the middle timing chain - 14000
Replacing the lower timing chain - 14000
Replacing the drive belt - 1000
Replacing the drive belt rollers 4pcs. - 2700
Replacing the cylinder block assembly - 40,000
Replacing the empty cylinder block - 46000
Replacing piston rings - 46000
Replacement of pistons - 46000
Crankshaft replacement - 25500
Replacing the connecting rod bearings - 23500
Replacement of the main bearings - 25500
Replacing the water pump (water pump) - 3200
Oil pump replacement - 19000
Oil receiver replacement - 4300
Replacing the engine pallet - 3150
Balancing Shaft Replacement - 16500
Pallet plate replacement - 18500
Replacing the vacuum pump - 3000
Replacing the EGR valve - 1700
Replacement of viscous couplings (thermal couplings) - 2300

Cooling radiator replacement 2500
Replacing the radiator of the air conditioner 2800
Replacing the water pump (pump) 3200
Replacing the radiator hose 650
Cooling system pressure test (leak test) 900
Replacing Thermostat 600
Cooling Fan Replacement 1800

Diagnostics manual transmission manual transmission 600
Replacement of manual transmission 6000
Replacement of automatic transmission of automatic transmission 6000
Replacing the clutch Kia Bongo 6000
Flywheel replacement 6500
Replacing the rear axle gearbox 5500
Replacing the gearbox of the front axle 5500
Replacing the transfer case (transfer case) 6500
Transfer case repairm 9000
Replacing the rear propeller shaft 1500
Replacing the front propeller shaft 1500
Left / Right Actuator Assembly Replacement - 2100
Replacing the internal CV joint 1600
Replacing the SHRUS outer 2100

Front suspension diagnostics 600
Replacing the front shock absorber 1600
Replacing the ball joint 1200
Replacing the bearing of the front hub 1500
Front stabilizer bar bush replacement 450
Replacing the front stabilizer bar 500
Replacing the upper arm 750
Replacing the lower arm 1250

Replacing the rear shock absorber 900r
Replacing the rear hub bearing 1100r
Replacing the rear arm - it's not there
Replacing the rear stabilizer bar 500
Replacing the rear stabilizer bush 500

Replacing the front brake pads -700r
Replacing the rear brake pads -2500r
Replacing the front brake caliper 1450
Replacing the brake master cylinder 2500

Replacing the starter - 1200r
Generator replacement - 1800r
Computer diagnostics of all systems - 1000r
Repair of electrical wiring from 150r
Replacing a light bulb - 250r
Headlight adjustment - 600r
Fuel system:
Replacing the injection pump (fuel pump) - 6500r
Replacing the nozzle - 1200r
Replacing the fuel filter - 800r
Flushing the fuel system - 10000
Replacing the sensor in the ramp - 450r

Whatever the year of manufacture of the car, a good owner always keeps it clean and in excellent technical condition. To achieve such goals, he is looking for a high-quality service. This is especially true of small trucks, to which the Kia Bongo belongs. It will be very unpleasant and costly if the means of earning does not start in one day. Our service carries out a whole range of works, which you can familiarize yourself with by looking at the price list.

Kia Bongo repairs are carried out only using high quality equipment, which is approved by the manufacturer. For all work, you receive a quality guarantee. Speaking of quality, you can safely choose between original spare parts and high-quality analogues, the prices of which, at times, differ significantly. If you have the necessary spare parts on hand, you will only have to pay for the work.

We carry out body repair of a car in Moscow (CAO) in Lianozovo in accordance with all the regulations established by the company. Depending on the complexity of the case, the car will be in service from several days to a couple of weeks. It all depends on how long our craftsmen will carry out locksmith repairs, as well as the following painting and polishing of the body, well, and, of course, the initial state of the car. But rest assured - our specialists do not sit out for nothing, they perform any work as soon as possible.

If you are worried about the time it takes for new parts to be delivered to us, do not worry, most of the parts are in our warehouse, they will not cost you much. If something is missing, we contact trusted suppliers who will deliver what you need within a couple of days. In this case, the cost of repairs does not change.

Computer diagnostics is carried out using professional equipment that will quickly find all faults and show the real picture of what is happening with electronics and other systems.

Looking for a quality Kia Bongo auto repair shop? You can leave your search - you have already found it. Favorable prices, high quality of work, free consultation - this is what attracts our clients. Do not forget that our prices differ significantly for the better, compared to other services. If the car needs to be repaired “right now”, use the urgent repair service.

Our experts will answer all your questions!

The valve has two tasks:
1) Control of the pressure created by the injection pump through the regulation of the volume of the supplied fuel.

2) Control of the temperature of the fuel discharged into the fuel tank.

The valve is located on the low pressure side. Fuel is fed into it through two holes at the end of the valve, which are covered with a strainer.
The idea of a strainer is to protect both the valve itself and the high-pressure system from unfiltered dirt residues.

The valve opens in accordance with the request of the ECU (DCU) for a certain pressure level. The higher the level of duty cycle supplied by the control unit to the valve, the lower the level of high pressure in the rail and vice versa. In the off state, the valve is permanently open by a conical spring that is stiffer than the internal spring at the back of the valve. Under the influence of a frequency signal from the ECU with a current level of up to 1.1 Ampere, the valve closes the passage to the injection pump, controlling the pressure. The valve is located on the back of the injection pump housing. IMPORTANT! Parts and elements of the fuel system should only be purchased Original and new! In our company AVIK - all spare parts for Kia Bongo 3 are always available!

AVIK company - Your reliable business partner!

Company specialization AVIK is the sale of original spare parts of South Korean production for commercial vehicles. We have a wide selection of spare parts in stock and on order for KIA Bongo | Bongo 3, HYUNDAI Porter | Porter 2, COUNTY, HD 65/72/78, HD 120/170/450/600, as well as on buses KIA, HYUNDAI.

AVIK Vladivostok
Borodinskaya street 18B (Metal base)

Sales department:
+7 (914) 960-3732 (Vladimir)

Dispatch and warehouse:
+7 (902) 482-33-11 (Igor)

Accounting department:
+7 (902) 480-1818 (Ekaterina)

(Customer Service)

Legal name:Limited Liability Company "AViK Group"
Legal address: 690049, Primorsky Territory, Vladivostok, st. Borodinskaya, 18B, building 1
Mailing address: 690049, Primorsky Territory, Vladivostok, st. Borodinskaya, 18B, building 1
INN: 2543088107
Checkpoint: 254301001
OGRN: 1162543050218

Club of owners and fans of Kia Carnival

Message Ronik »Oct 21, 2015 06:53 am

Message Evgeniy »24 Oct 2015, 13:18

Message Superman »17 Nov 2015, 00:12

Message Viper78 »21 Nov 2015, 19:01

I have experience in operating a diesel engine. The first car was the Ford Focus C-MAX 1.6 TDCi. Having traveled on this car, I just fell in love with diesel engines. Of course, I had to find a gas station with high-quality fuel, otherwise the engine would simply be in a fever. In Murmansk, the best fuel is at SpetsTehnologiya and Statoil gas stations, I mostly refuel on the highway at Gazpromneft (not Gazprom - it's just a fake at gas stations and fuel), sometimes at Lukoil in large settlements, i.e. to on the highway they dilute the fuel with “donkey urine”. Even at Rosneft, the quality of diesel fuel is consistently good (by 4%), while at Lukoil it is a real lottery. There are also a number of good gas stations: highway M18: in Karelia - "RTK plus" - refueled in the village of Pryazha, gas stations "Kem" - Loukhi, Kem. Leningrad Region: “Neste”. Well, of course, there are proven gas stations in the regions “without names”, in order to survive, they do not deceive their customers. I hope my little experience will help you not to pour "donkey urine" into the tank