Brake vacuum vaz 2109 DIY repair

In detail: brake vacuum VAZ 2109 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This video instruction demonstrates a way to restore the performance of a vacuum booster at home (removing the spring from the brake booster). It is not uncommon for a vacuum booster to become the cause of a triple engine. In order to fix the breakdown, you can buy a new one, but you can try to repair it. The wizard will show you how to disassemble and produce repair of the vacuum brake booster VAZ.

As a rule, no one repairs this unit responsible for the car brake, but changes it entirely, but if it is not possible to buy, then this method of self-restoring work will be very useful. For all the details and the sequence of disassembly, see the video plot.

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Vacuum brake booster VAZ Samara Form (21099)

Why is the vacuum hissing on the VAZ2108?

Hisses when you press the brake pedal VAZ 21091

Vacuum brake booster

The main symptom that tells the car enthusiast about the failure of the vacuum brake booster is the difficult stroke of the brake pedal. This can lead to poor braking, which can lead to a road traffic accident in an emergency.
On a VAZ 2109, the replacement of the vacuum brake booster must be carried out. Replacing the vacuum brake booster with a VAZ 2109 can be safely carried out on your own.

Replacing the vacuum brake booster VAZ 2109

The repair of the vacuum amplifier is carried out in specialized auto repair shops using the equipment designed for this. In the context of garage repairs on the VAZ-2109, the replacement of the vacuum brake booster is carried out with the installation of a new one.
Before deciding on the replacement, it is necessary to check the operation of it itself, as well as the check valve.

Video (click to play).

Vaz 2109 brake vacuum

To check the operation of the amplifier, you need to:

Press the pedal with your foot, thus increasing the pressure in the brake system. In this case, the pedal remains in the depressed state.
Keeping your foot on the pedal, start the engine.
When the engine is started, the foot with the pedal begins to move to the floor of the VAZ body, which means that the vacuum amplifier is working and the entire system is in good order.

Note.
In another case, the leg with the pedal remains motionless, that is, in the upper depressed state, which means that there is a malfunction somewhere. First you need to check the vacuum hose at the connection points. Also check the non-return valve for leaks.

Vaz 2109 vacuum brakes

To check the operation of the check valve, you need to:

inspect the joints of the pipes;
feel these places with your hands;
tighten the clamps at the joints of the branch pipes;
on the inlet pipe fitting;
at the fitting of the non-return valve, in vacuum.

Then check the valve itself. To do this, remove the rubber tube from the vacuum, if necessary use a flat screwdriver.
Since the tube is removed very tightly.
Take a pre-prepared rubber pear-shaped syringe with a suitable diameter for the fitting:

Insert it;
Squeeze the syringe;
Squeeze air out of it.

Release the hand if it remains clenched, then the valve check is complete. That is, the valve fulfills its constructive purpose. If the syringe is filled with air, then the valve will have to be changed.
You can also check the operation of the valve with your mouth:

Blow out the air from your mouth, it should calmly pass into a vacuum;
Then suction, no air should be felt.

This completes the check of the brake booster, check valve.If no defects are found in the parts to be connected and the check valve is working properly, the vacuum is replaced.

Vaz 2109 vacuum brake booster

This requires a simple set of keys:

The repairs are carried out in the garage, where the hood should be raised and the stanchion installed.

Work order:

remove the negative terminal from the battery;
disconnect the rubber tube from the brake vacuum, first unscrew the clamp;
disconnect the power supply terminal of the level sensor from the cover of the master brake cylinder;

Vaz 2109 checking the vacuum brake booster

then, in the passenger compartment, move the driver's seat to the extreme far position, as far as the runners allow;
go down under the steering column to the brake pedal.

Note: if necessary, due to lack of lighting, use a portable lamp with a protective torch.

using pliers, remove the retaining ring from the bushing that connects the pedal itself to the vacuum rod connector;
remove the rod, lower it to the floor of the body.

Note: The rod connector is a U-shaped plate with holes for attaching to the pedal bar.

return to the set vacuum;
now you have to carefully remove the brake master cylinder;

Vaz 21093 vacuum brake booster

Note. This must be done in order not to add additional work on filling the brake fluid, pumping the entire brake system through all four calipers.

clean the threaded connection on the master cylinder bushings and use a metal brush to carry out this work.

Note. Carefully unscrew the nuts, turning back and forth several times so as not to break the threads on the screws. Remove the nuts from the screws, and also remove the washers that are in a compressed state.

Vacuum brake booster

To facilitate the work, use a flat screwdriver to go over the cylinder body and slightly, as carefully as possible, free them from sticking.

Note: if the nuts cannot be loosened, you need to drop a few drops of acetic acid 70% on them, wait 30 minutes, clean the thread with a wire brush and repeat unscrewing.

After removing the washers, it is necessary to proceed with the removal of the brake master cylinder. It will be difficult to remove.
Therefore, it is necessary to be careful not to break, not to bend the brake pipes too much, to apply force sharply, but not too much. It is necessary to remove the brake cylinder forward, without deviations to the side.
The final final step is the removal of the vacuum. It is attached to the bulkhead with a bracket.

The bracket is mounted on two studs, clean the threads as described above.
Unscrew the nuts, remove the vacuum together with the bracket.

Then, after removal, unscrew the two blind bolts from the vacuum. Move it aside.
Carefully screw the new vacuum onto the bracket. Reassemble in reverse order.
The price of a vacuum brake booster is 2500 rubles. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the packaging.
The packaging of the guaranteed manufacturer must be made of corrugated cardboard.

manufacturer's name;
batch number;
Release date;
the article must also be indicated: 2108-3510010ТМ.

Since there is a fake on the market. Therefore, you need to buy from trusted sellers, in stores that have been able to establish themselves on the positive side.
When doing work with your own hands, you need to carefully watch the video. The most important thing will be to remember the order of the repair work.
For a better perception, take a photo at the place of repair. In advance, at home, number them in order. Performing work in turn, shift the photo down.
Do not be lazy to do this, since during assembly you can check the sequence of the correct execution of the process. It also does not hurt to read the instructions for performing car repairs in order to avoid unexpected situations.

Welcome!
Vacuum brake booster - it is attached to the bracket to the engine shield (This is a shield that separates the engine compartment and the car interior) and a master brake cylinder is installed in it, which, by the way, also needs to be replaced from time to time (When this cylinder wears out, a problem begins with the brakes, the car may not brake, only two of all four available wheels can brake, the brake fluid can still run out quickly and the cylinder itself can leak), thanks to this cylinder and thanks to the vacuum booster, braking occurs on modern cars, by the way, the vacuum cleaner works thanks to the intake manifold ( On the injectors, at the expense of the receiver) and therefore when the engine is started the brakes are soft and very easy to press on them, and when you turn it off, the air pressure in the intake manifold disappears and the pedal becomes much (perceptibly) heavy.

Note!
This brake booster can be replaced by any person who had at least some experience in car repair, and to replace it, you will need a small, but still rare set of tools that not all people will meet, namely: Pliers will be needed, a crank and to it has cap heads (if there is an extension cord, then it is better for them to stock up), if there is no crank, then all the keys that you have take, thanks to caps and wrenches, it can also be removed, but it will not be very convenient!

Summary:

Where is the vacuum brake booster located?
In the engine compartment, it is located on the engine shield (Indicated by a red arrow), and behind the engine shield, the interior of the car immediately follows, in the interior it will be possible to find a vacuum brake booster pusher, which is connected to the brake pedal (When removing the amplifier, this pusher from the pedal you will have to disconnect) and therefore the approximate location of the brake booster from the passenger compartment, according to this pusher, it is very easy to determine when you are going to remove the amplifier, you will immediately understand which pusher we are talking about.

When do you need to change the vacuum brake booster?
If the brake booster malfunctions, either the brakes will disappear, or the engine will start to work unevenly at idle, in fact there are a lot of symptoms, because each car always detects a brake booster malfunction in different ways, on some machine, which is when the engine is turned off, what when running, the pedal will be pressed with one effort, for some, when you press the pedal, idle will be disrupted and the car will start to stall, but the performance check is always the same, on a muffled engine, you need to press the brake pedal 5-6 times , the last time you need to leave the pedal pressed and start the engine of the car, and as soon as it starts, the pedal must fail a little, if everything is so, then the amplifier is working properly.

Note!
You can get acquainted with all the malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster, you can in the video clip, which is posted just below, it shows the whole example on a classic car, but the point is that this booster works identically on all cars (they are removed only in different ways, but they all have the same principle of operation) and therefore if you have front-wheel drive, and the video talks about rear-wheel drive in general, then do not pay special attention to this, because, as we have already said, the principle of operation of a vacuum amplifier is the same on all machines!

Note!
If suddenly your vacuum brake booster fails, then go on to replace it and buy a new one, we categorically do not recommend repairing your own, because it is unlikely that something good will come of this, all the more you will have to buy a repair kit anyway, and this is also a spent money and it is not yet known whether you can correctly replace all the worn out parts in it or not, then you will have to assemble the vacuum cleaner so that the air does not bleed out of it and it works great!Withdrawal:
1) Before proceeding with the removal of the brake booster, check whether the vacuum hose (indicated by the blue arrow) is normally connected to the non-return valve (indicated by the red arrow), be sure to start the car and see if the air is etched from this hose, from the valve (Disconnect only nothing is needed, in the photo everything is disconnected, only so that you can understand where the valve is located, where the hose is and where the whole system is connected, by the way, the connection point is indicated by a green arrow). Image - Brake vacuum vaz 2109 DIY repair

Note!
We fully recommend walking along the hose, it is connected to the intake manifold fitting, everywhere check whether there is no air being etched, otherwise replace the hose or check valve with a new one!

2) After a complete check, proceed to removing the vacuum cleaner from the car, for this, first disconnect the wiring block indicated by the arrow from the top cover of the brake reservoir and take it to the side.

3) Then, with the pliers, get into the car and crawl under the place where the pedals are installed, the same pusher will be attached to the brake pedal (or rather, to its bracket), which we talked about a little higher, this pusher comes from the vacuum brake booster and when the pedal is squeezed out, the vacuum cleaner starts to work, this pusher will need to be disconnected, to disconnect it, remove the locking bracket with pliers (see photo 1) which secures the finger and then remove the finger from the brake pedal bracket (see photo 2) and you can immediately disconnect pusher.

4) After the operations done, it will be necessary to get over to the engine compartment again, and being there, disconnect the hose that is connected to the check valve (It is attached with a clamp, in the photo the check valve is indicated by a blue arrow) and then unscrew the two nuts (Their approximate location is indicated by red arrows ), which attach the master brake cylinder to the vacuum brake booster and then carefully move the cylinder away from the brake booster, only you do not need to remove it and the brake metal pipes that are connected to it do not need to be disconnected either.

5) And finally, unscrew the four nuts that secure the bracket on which the brake booster is located to the motor shield (Two nuts are indicated by the arrows), as soon as they are unscrewed, you can slowly remove the amplifier along with the bracket, if you suddenly want to disconnect them, then after removal , unscrew the two nuts that attach the bracket to the brake booster and you can separate these two things.

Installation:
The new brake booster is put in the reverse order of removal, if it suddenly turns out that there is no bracket on it, then remove the bracket from the old one by unscrewing two nuts as we have already said.

Additional video clip:

Note!
You can see a clear example of how a faulty brake booster can affect the engine idling, you can from the video clip, which we have fixed in the same way below:

Do not believe those who say that the brakes were invented by cowards. They were invented by very smart and long-lived people, and the vacuum brake booster was also invented by very lazy people. In order to check the need for VUT on the car, try to stop it by pressing the brake pedal with the engine off at low speed. Most likely, you will have to press the brake pedal so hard to stop completely that you will even need to stand up a little on the seat. Can you imagine if such a surprise awaits you during heavy traffic in a stream of cars, and even on the descent? Therefore, this issue simply needs to be taken with the utmost seriousness and full responsibility for your own and others' safety. So, let's figure out how the VUT repair and replacement of its component parts is done.The VAZ-2110 vacuum brake booster is located in the engine compartment between the main brake cylinder and the brake pedal.The principle of operation of the vacuum brake booster is briefly discussed in the following figure:In the initial state, both cavities are connected to the atmosphere by means of a follower valve (not shown in the figure). When you press the brake pedal, the rod moves the diaphragm to the left, the follower valve separates the cavities and a vacuum is created in cavity "A". And since the cavity "B" is still under atmospheric pressure, both of these conditions (vacuum + atmospheric pressure) together give the braking additional effort.You can take a closer look at the operation of the entire braking system of the car as a whole in the following video tutorial.

1. If the motor starts to work unevenly (intermittently or troit), it is necessary to diagnose the serviceability of the vacuum amplifier. Often, depressurization is accompanied by air being sucked into the air intake manifold pipe, as a result, the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinders is dramatically depleted.

2. Alternatively, you can try to diagnose the malfunction in the following way: make 5-6 strokes of the brake pedal with the engine “muffled”. After that, in the middle of the stroke, fix the pedal, then start the motor. If the pedal fails during start-up, the vacuum amplifier can be considered working.If the pedal remains stationary, repair or complete replacement of the vacuum brake booster is required.

3. Carry out a visual inspection and look carefully to see if there are any smudges on the body of the vacuum amplifier.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster.

In order to make a repair or replacement, you need to have some skills and knowledge, it will not be superfluous to look into the manual for the repair and maintenance of your car. In addition, you will need tools, as a rule, a standard set is sufficient.

Below I give you a step-by-step instruction on the procedure for repairing a vacuum brake booster:

1. Read in detail the manual (manual) for the repair and operation of the car, determine the key nuances for yourself.

2. Disconnect the booster drive rod from the brake pedal, which is located under the steering shaft.

3. In the engine compartment, remove the GTZ.

4. Depending on the breakdown, repair or completely replace this device.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster of cars VAZ 2108-21099, VAZ 2110-2112, VAZ 2113-2115, Lada Samara

Spare parts. The right choice is buying repair kit for a vacuum brake booster manufactured by BRT (Balakovo)... The quality of products (not only of repair kits) from this manufacturer is always on top. But, in my case, a kit from AWEL (Ukraine) was purchased and installed. I will say right away that the quality of the rubber of this company is pleasantly surprising. Time, of course, will show / check how good everything is, but so far there are no complaints. The complete set of repair kits is the same (see photos 1 and 2).

Tool. In order to repair the VUT (vacuum brake booster), you first have to remove it from the car. How to do this and what tool you need, you can find out by reading the article on replacing the vacuum amplifier. To work on disassembling and assembling the amplifier itself, you will need the following tools: a large flat screwdriver, pliers, a hammer, and a couple of clean rags. Well, and, of course, do not forget about attention and accuracy))). There is nothing complicated in this work, but if you whip it up, you can forget some part during assembly or damage the new diaphragm.

Photo report on the repair of a vacuum brake booster (VUT) of cars VAZ 2108-21099, VAZ 2110-2112, VAZ 2113-2115, Lada Samara:

The body of the vacuum amplifier consists of two halves. And in order to disconnect them, you need to deal with the factory rolling. To do this, use a large screwdriver to squeeze out all the folds on the body (photo 3). Pliers can also be used for this purpose (photo 4). But no matter what tool you use for disassembly, the main thing to remember is that you should act slowly and carefully. Do not bend the metal in the opposite direction or break the edges of the case, because due to such rough handling, the subsequent assembly of the vacuum amplifier will be much more difficult.

Also, what I want to say or recall, there is a rather powerful spring inside the vacuum amplifier. And, if we forget about its existence, then, after squeezing out the last fixing sides, the amplifier can effectively fly apart / split into two halves. The surprise is not fatal, but not desirable. In order to avoid such an unpleasant incident, the halves of the amplifier should be fixed with standard GTZ nuts. We put several washers or nuts of a suitable diameter under them and tighten the nuts (photo 5).

If you don't want to mess with the nuts, then you can hold the halves of the amplifier with your hand during disassembly. This, of course, is not so convenient, but quite realistic.

Oops! After removing all obstacles, the amplifier falls apart (photos 6 and 7).

Now all that remains is to systematically replace all the old rubber parts with new ones. You can, of course, replace only one diaphragm.... In most cases, she is to blame for a malfunction of the vacuum booster.For example, in my case, the amplifier is practically new and replacing one diaphragm would be enough. But, it is still correct to replace all rubber parts. Plus, if traces of dirt, sand, brake fluid are found inside the amplifier housing, then the housing should be rinsed and cleaned.

Further, briefly and to the point. Remove the spring and washers with rubber rings. There are no rings in the repair kit, so we try not to break or lose them... And, most importantly, do not forget about them when assembling, since the amplifier will not work without these rings! Photo # 8.

We take out the plastic piston from the body. We remove the covers of the studs and the diaphragm from it (photo 9, 10, 11, 12). You can immediately install new parts in their place.

Remove the protective cover of the valve body. In its place we put a new one, photo 13 (after having smeared it with cast, cyatim, etc.).

Lubricate the studs. And carefully mount the piston into the body (photos 14 and 15).

We put washers with rubber rings on the studs (photo 16).

On the second half of the body, we change the sealing ring of the check valve and the GTZ stem (photos 17, 18, 19, 20).

We check that the diaphragm in the body lies flat, without twists and is not twisted (photo 21).

We connect the parts of the vacuum amplifier. We tighten them with nuts (photo 22).

Then, using a screwdriver and a hammer, bend the edges (photos 23 and 24).

Ready! Repair of the vacuum brake booster (VUT) of the car VAZ 2108-21099, VAZ 2110-2112, VAZ 2113-2115 completed... As you can see, there is nothing difficult in this work. The main thing is the presence of desire and time.

Progress does not stand still, so now it is difficult to imagine a braking system without a vacuum brake booster, which is a necessary element of the braking system. But the vacuum booster can sometimes have problems, so sometimes the vacuum brake booster needs to be replaced or repaired.

Technologically independent replacement of a vacuum brake booster is not so difficult. It is only necessary to take into account all the design features of the car model, since in all models the principles of operation of the vacuum brake booster are the same.

The vacuum brake booster and the brake master cylinder (GTZ) are combined into one unit. The circuit and device of the vacuum brake booster is not so complicated.

The diaphragm divides the amplifier housing into two parts: on the side of the brake pedal - the atmospheric part, and on the side of the GTZ - the vacuum part.

The vacuum chamber is connected to the intake manifold with a check valve. The collector is also a source of vacuum. If the engine is diesel, then, most likely, an electric vacuum pump will be used to ensure the operation of the vacuum amplifier.

If the engine is stopped, the check valve activates the decoupling of the manifold and the vacuum booster. The vacuum brake booster only works when the engine is running. The same disconnection occurs if the vacuum brake booster is faulty.

The atmospheric chamber with the help of a follower valve is connected to the vacuum chamber in the initial position of the valve, and it is connected to the atmosphere when the brake pedal is pressed.

The pusher is connected to the brake pedal and is responsible for moving the follower valve. The diaphragm of the body is connected from the side of the vacuum chamber with the GTZ rod. The pusher pumps the brake fluid by means of a piston to the working cylinders.

The return spring is needed so that the diaphragm moves to its original position until the time when braking ends. Sometimes an electromagnetic rod drive is built into the amplifier design.

If the system is ESP, then it has an active brake booster. The purpose of such an amplifier is to prevent rollover.

The principle of operation of a vacuum amplifier is based on the fact that different pressures are formed in the atmospheric and vacuum chambers. This pressure difference acts on the pusher, moves the GTZ piston rod.

If the vacuum brake booster has faults, then first you need to understand that faults will not damage the brake system. The car will be difficult to drive, and when you press the brake pedal, you need to increase the effort.

There are two traditional faults that require replacement or repair of the vacuum brake booster:

breakage or depressurization of the hose that connects the engine manifold and the vacuum brake booster. In this case, the hiss of the vacuum brake booster will be heard. The hose should be checked for breaks or cracks. Also check the tightening of the clamps;
there may be malfunctions inside the vacuum booster - the rubber of the valves may age or the diaphragm may burst.

Checking the vacuum brake booster is easy. If there are problems with the engine, then the diagnosis should be started by checking the vacuum booster. The consequence of depressurization is air leakage into the intake manifold, which leads to problems with the air-fuel mixture that enters the engine cylinder.

There is another option for checking the vacuum amplifier. If the engine does not work, then a few strokes must be made with the brake pedal. In the middle of the stroke, the pedal is fixed if it falls through. If the brake pedal does not move, then repair or replace the vacuum brake booster.

During a visual inspection, you need to pay attention to whether there are leaks on the body of the vacuum amplifier. If they appear, then you need to find out the reasons for their appearance.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster

The vacuum brake booster is repaired using an appropriate repair kit and standard kit. Replace the vacuum brake booster assembly with a new assembly.

If we talk about the technology of replacing and repairing a vacuum brake booster, then first you will need to familiarize yourself with the car manual, clarify all the nuances of the amplifier design and the manufacturer's recommendations for repair.

Then you need to act according to the traditional scheme:

the traction drive of the amplifier in the passenger compartment is disconnected from the brake pedal;

GTZ must be removed in the engine compartment;

the vacuum hose is disconnected from the check valve.

After the GTZ is removed, a complete replacement or repair of the vacuum amplifier is carried out. It all depends on the malfunction.

The VAZ-2109 vacuum booster is designed to "facilitate" pressing the brake pedal. The unit is located under the hood behind the main cylinder and is connected directly to the pedal by means of a rod. To determine whether it is necessary to replace the vacuum booster or not, pay attention to the force that must be applied to the braking device to stop the car.

Checking for breakdowns of the VAZ-2109 vacuum amplifier involves the following actions of the owner of the car:

Turn off the engine.
Step on the brake pedal 5 times.
Squeeze and hold the brake pedal.
Start the car engine.

How should the VAZ-2109 behave ideally? If the vacuum device works correctly, the lever moves forward smoothly and effortlessly. If you doubt the accuracy of the "diagnosis", a clear sign of a vacuum breakdown is the hissing that occurs at the section where the intake manifold pipe is connected to the valve fitting, which is attached in the opposite direction to the vacuum amplifier.

Specialists at the service station recommend that motorists research the following characteristics:

the integrity of the pipe that fits the device;
tightness of the main component located on the union.

Hissing occurs when the fasteners are loose.

The initial stage of malfunction of the vacuum amplifier in the VAZ-2109 is very clearly visible, especially when it comes to the carburetor. The lever responsible for the brake is still well squeezed out, braking is quite informative, but you can already notice such unfavorable properties:

When idling, the engine looks like a troit.
When the driver presses the brake pedal, the idle speed returns to normal.
When the accelerator is influenced in the neutral position, irrespective of the carburetor regulation, "dips" appear.

If the indicated signs are present, then it makes sense to remove the branch pipe from the fitting of the vacuum device while the engine is running, and then cover the hose with a finger or some object. If the idle speed has returned to normal, then nothing more can be done except replacing the VAZ-2109 vacuum brake booster.

If a breakdown occurs on the way, driving should be continued with the vacuum booster (VUT) turned on, although the pedal will become stiffer and not so pliable, the information content will still remain ideal.

Before installing a new brake unit, it is necessary to dismantle the worn one. To do this, first disconnect the pedal from the amplifier stem. Dismantle the device based on the site of the pedal assembly. To do this, disconnect the 2 units that are secured with a pin; this can be done easily with a flat head screwdriver.

Next, crawl under the hood, it is more convenient to do this when the car is on an overpass or on a viewing pit:

Unscrew the block responsible for powering the brake fluid level meter in the car.
Remove the bracket securing the hydraulic lines in accordance with the VAZ-2109 frame. The nut can be easily unscrewed with the marking head 10.
Armed with a 17 wrench, remove the main brake cylinder. Note that you need to disconnect 2 nuts.
The vacuum amplifier is now available for subsequent manipulations. Remove the tube that connects the amplification chamber and the inlet format manifold.
Remove the spacer from the drain in the foreground.
Using a wrench, extension, universal joint and a 13-point head, unscrew the 4 nuts responsible for securing the vacuum brake booster on the body studs.
Remove the amplifier from the studs and remove from under the hood.
Inspect the underside of the booster brake device - all parts must be removed. To do this, having hooked the head on 17 two fixing nuts, remove the metal case by pulling it towards you. The boot can be easily removed from the stem.
Attach the bracket to the rubber seal on the new VUT following the reverse order of steps.

When installing a new vacuum unit, observe the following rules:

the connection of the VUT rod with the brake pedal is made after placing the device on the fixing pins;
to bring the sealing components to perfection, lubricate the space between the brake cylinder and the vacuum device with a sealant;
the VUT rod in the VAZ-2109, which affects the main brake cylinder located on the front side of the frame, can move during transportation or installation. Therefore, to check the condition of the product, press it all the way.

Determining the correct installation of the vacuum brake booster is not difficult - the brake pedal, if the product is installed correctly, works without failures.

A video instruction on how to do it yourself to replace a vacuum booster for brakes in a VAZ-2109 is presented below:

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