Ts43101 DIY repair

In detail: c43101 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Device with automatic protection against electrical overloads Designed to measure current and voltage in sinusoidal DC and AC circuits, DC resistance, electrical capacitance and the relative level of DC voltage transmission.

The input resistance of the device is about 20 kOhm / V when measuring AC and DC voltages, and with a multiplier X2 10 kOhm / V. Working temperature -10. +40 ° С, relative air humidity 90% at temperature 30 * С,
The device employs a magnetoelectric measuring mechanism with a hv> trk-frame magnet on stretchers. The total deflection current is 29 μA, the resistance of the moving frame is 775 Ohm.
The device is powered from a built-in power supply consisting of three short-circuit type 316 elements.
The resistances of the resistors must correspond to the values indicated in the list of elements to the circuit diagram of the device (tab. one).

Rice. one... Electrical schematic diagram of the combined device 43101

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Video (click to play).

Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate topic on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Review: Electrical measuring combined analog device 43101 - The most convenient and reliable pointer tester.

Here I got my hands on another combined electrical analogue instrument 43101. Usually we call them just the one hundred and first tester or “one hundred and one tester”.

These one hundred first dozen passed through me. I was just repairing them, so I can tell you a lot about how to use them. Especially often they are confused, newbies and novice radio amateurs ask questions.
I must say right away that the device is excellent! It has so many advantages that every self-respecting electronics engineer should have such a device at hand. Even if not as the main device. He very often helps out, despite the fact that the model is not new at all, rather old and has been produced for quite some time. He has the first two digits of the serial number indicate the year of manufacture.

Nowadays sophisticated digital multimeters have become very popular. In most cases, they replace dial gauge combined instruments. But not always. In some cases, they only take time. For those who are not interested in the details, I advise you to go directly to the "Tester Features" item.

Such situations arise quite often.When you can measure for a long time, take characteristics in a modern digital way, or do the same quickly and efficiently, using a dial gauge and a trained eye of an electronics engineer.

Appearance history:
There are many similar, seemingly, dial devices. They have been around for many years, but I want to highlight the 43101 tester. Since it is optimal. It is already modern enough to have many features. But not as fancy as to be flimsy like pocket multimeters.
One of the first such testers to enter serial production is the Ts20. Before that, they were mainly made in their own workshops from improvised means. Their history began with the invention of radio. In addition, radios had to be assembled and tuned to listen.
Ts20 testers are as simple as possible in their design. An arrowhead, two variable resistors and a bunch of sockets for connecting test leads. Minimum contacts, everything is soldered. Therefore, there is practically nothing to break there. For this reason, there are still quite a few of them left in working form to our time. Some electricians still use them.

Features of the 43101 tester:

Outwardly, it is very similar to the usual four-digit tseshki. But the type did not become five-digit by accident.

Linear scale.
If you look closely at the scale, you can see that there is no non-linear scale graduation for AC current and voltage measurements. The upper LINEAR scale is used instead.

At one time, this was a revolution for testers. After all, it was not possible to measure change linearly for many years due to design features. The fact is that initially the instruments were made only for measuring direct current and voltage, since the arrow head is direct current.

A mirror strip on the scale allows you to read the instrument readings very accurately. By moving the head, the reflection of the arrow is aligned with the arrow itself.

The eye becomes strictly perpendicular above it. Such bells and whistles are made on exemplary devices with an accuracy class of 0.5; 0.2; 0.1. Here, with its class of 1.5, it is rather an overkill. Rarely will anyone use a mirror. The divisions are very large, the arrow goes close to the scale. Even if you look very crookedly, you won't be mistaken anymore. In addition, making measurements in the form of voltage in the outlet, with a movement of the head, with one eye squinted, looks ridiculous.

The required parameters and wiring diagrams are indicated on the battery compartment cover. Without this cover, it is impossible to understand how the capacitance of capacitors can be measured on it.

The device is powered by three AA batteries connected in series.

It should be noted that 4.5 volts is not enough for normal testing of many diodes and transistors. The more optimal voltage for testing is 9 volts. This is where pocket multimeters win. But, when working on ohms, the batteries last longer. All the same, after each measurement, all buttons and the switch must be put into neutral position, otherwise part of the circuit remains powered and you will not get enough batteries.

Inconvenience.
The scale has a graduation with the upper measurement limits of only 10 and 50. When measuring at the limits of 2500,25,0,25 amperes; 250,25,2,5 and especially 0,075 volts VERY inconvenient to calculate the real readings. You have to quickly recount the readings in your head.

This fact greatly interferes, increases the measurement time. Sometimes you need to measure very quickly and efficiently. For example, when you need to measure the exact voltage of short-term signals. For example the level of a logical unit.
Another inconvenience. It is necessary to frequently monitor the charge of the supplying batteries. If they sit down during recess, there will be an error.

2. Always keep an eye on the condition of the batteries and protection.
Above the pointer indicator there are two buttons, a rectangular one and a round one. They are not there for beauty.

Do not forget to press the round button.If you do not press it, the device simply will not work. As a rule, it does not bounce itself. This protection button can only rebound when the measured currents / voltages exceed the selected limit. Or when shaking, falling.
Attention! It is not visually visible whether the protection has worked or not. It is very important. If at the time of measurement it is in a wrung-out state, the electrician may falsely think that there is no voltage on the contacts and fall under it! The same can happen if you just forget to insert the batteries.
For this reason, the protection must be checked every time before work. To do this, you need to press the rectangular button and hear a click. If it clicks, then the protection and the batteries are in order. And do not forget to press the protection enable button.

There is one more way to check the protection. Turn on the 1 volt limit. It is not on the panel, there is a limit of 0.5 and press the “V, mAx2” button.

It multiplies the selected range limit by two, resulting in a 1 volt limit. We take any 1.5 volt battery and connect it to the tester. Protection should work. The arrow head, when overloaded only one and a half times, will never burn out. And the protection microcircuit amplifies the signal and quickly supplies voltage to the coil, which snaps off the contacts at the input of the device. So the device protects the head and switch contacts in case of incorrect selection of the measuring range. It will work if you apply to the limit of 100 volts - 220. But it will not work if you mix it up and apply voltage when you select one of the current limits. This often happens. In this case, the contacts are fused, welded to each other even before the protection has time to work. It does not work and everything else burns: tracks, switch contacts, resistors, shunts, worst of all, if the head. One turn-on and a tester in the trash heap. 50 to 50, that it will turn out to revive him.

To be sure that the batteries are not dead. It is best to check the infinity and zero setting on a resistance measurement. When the batteries run out, they are not enough to adjust the scale. This affects the reliability of the protection and the accuracy of the measurements.

3. Do not confuse voltage with current:
It is very good that there are no limits for measuring 300 volts and 300 milliamps, as it was in previous models. How I have suffered with them. They bring the same would-be electricians several times. And instead of admitting their guilt, they begin to drive dirt on me, who does not understand anything about these matters, to the authorities. Instead of setting the limit of 300 volts, they confuse and twist to the limit of 300 milliamperes. The shunt is torn so that parts of it are fused from the inside into the body of the device. And making a new one is not so easy and fast, but it is possible.

4. Do not forget to rearrange the probe in place after measuring kilo-ohms:
Between the two sockets of the output to the probes of the measuring cord there is a socket for measuring resistance in kilo-ohms and for measuring the capacitance of capacitors. If, in a hurry, forget to rearrange it, the circuit for measuring resistance will burn out.

5. Do not measure capacity:
To measure capacitance, I do not advise using the device, or use it only as a last resort very carefully, carefully. To do this, the device is supplied with a power supply voltage of 220 volts. Since few people will do the decoupling from the network in conditions of the “on their knees” type, such a measurement is still dangerous for the life of a capacitor-measuring one.

6. Visually monitor the condition of the device.
There should be no cracks, no burning smell in it. All buttons should be well pressed and locked. The switch should not stick, should rotate firmly and accurately.
Place the appliance in an upright position.

Watch out for the departure of zero. The same should be done, if possible, when the arrow is at the end of the scale. There is no need to apply voltage, we turn on the ohms with a switch and two buttons and set the arrow at the end of the scale using a knob.

With a good device, the arrow will not go more than one division, then it can be used in any position, even in space.

If it goes a little further 2-3 divisions. It's not scary. It's just that when installing the device on an uneven surface, you will often have to turn the mechanical zero of the arrow head.
If more than 3 divisions go away, you should already be on your guard. This means that the device fell from a decent height or was significantly overloaded, or it may have been repeatedly turned on with reverse polarity.

7. Check polarity before switching on.
It seems, “Oh, what's the difference. I turned it on wrong, changed the positions of the probes and everything is in order. " It's not entirely harmless. First, the backward movement of the arrow is limited to a short section. Further, it hits the limiter quite hard. With very frequent mistakes, the balance of the arrow can be lost. If, in addition, the wrong measurement limit is mistakenly chosen, the damage will be even more serious. As the protection WILL NOT WORK, as it only works with the correct polarity. The developers did not think about this moment. After all, it was not at all difficult to organize the protection operation when connecting the wrong polarity, regardless of the voltage / current level.

If you use the device, following all these precautions, the device will measure accurately and serve for a very long time, tens of years.
If you have such a 101st device lying around, handle it with care. It will serve you for more. With its relative simplicity, the price of 43101s is held up by more digital multimeters with similar limits. It is worth wondering why.

I'm sorry - R7, not R10 - was wrong. Attached file (green resistance).

Thank you for instructions on how to use it. I got the device without a back cover, which I found on the Internet (description of the device - video clip), so I used it.

Added by (22.12.2016, 13:16)
———————————————
I have 2 diodes on the measuring head (they can be seen on the previously attached file 8643591), but in the manual in the photo there are no “guts”.

Added by (22.12.2016, 13:30)
———————————————
I read the instructions. That's what I did. All my actions are confirmed by the file _4354-1-.docx in the first message. If it does not open, let me know - I will expose it in separate files.

Message # 11 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 17:53

Message # 12 ROW »27 Nov 2016, 17:59

Sent after 1 minute 35 seconds:

Message # 13 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 18:02

Message # 14 AnSm »27 Nov 2016, 18:39

Message # 15 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 19:20

Message # 16 AnSm »27 Nov 2016, 19:29

Message # 17 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 19:58

Message # 18 VVKV »27 Nov 2016, 20:01

Message # 19 AnSm »27 Nov 2016, 21:06

Message # 20 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 22:01

Of course * and * so * is possible. I * search * get it * a little ** a little * lighter e. * I * have ** 65 * years old, * got sick * on * heart * full * forward * strict o * forbidden. * 2 * documents * found l * and * before * downloaded. * Thank you * for * answer. 73 de OM6SK Jaro

Added after 17 minutes (s):

Here * this * is * correct * n yt * for * me * an old man. Thanks a lot . I * downloaded * the book * to * something * such * I * hoped. means * I'm ** lucky *. ... page 162 * map 91 ** and * now * in * small, * n slightly * will * be * according to * my * measures * ** full * forward *! 73 de OM6SK Jaro

Repair of combined
devices.

During the operation of the combined device, various malfunctions may occur due to both wear and tear and the structure of its
elements and incorrect operator actions.

*
The following malfunctions are possible:

- loss of conductivity of additional
resistors;

- loss of ac conductivity
resistor "Set. 0 ";

- violation of contacts in the place
connections of elements;

- burning or deformation of contacts
switches;

- open circuit in the universal shunt circuit;

- loss of conductivity of adjustable
resistors;

- open or short circuit of diodes
rectifier;

- breakage of stretch marks or frame winding
measuring mechanism.

Do not rush to open the device. You must first try to install
the possible cause of the malfunction, for which the values should be measured
on all measurement ranges, knowing the measured values or controlling each of them with another device. Then,
using the data in the table of typical malfunctions of combined devices
and their reasons, a schematic diagram and a map of electrical circuits
for a specific device, identify suspected defective items, or
section of the chain based on the specific situation.

Added after 17 minutes (s):

Repair of combined
devices.

During the operation of the combined device, various malfunctions may occur due to both wear and tear and the structure of its
elements and incorrect operator actions.

*
The following malfunctions are possible:

- loss of conductivity of additional
resistors;

- loss of ac conductivity
resistor "Set. 0 ";

- violation of contacts in the place
connections of elements;

- burning or deformation of contacts
switches;

- open circuit in the universal shunt circuit;

- loss of conductivity of adjustable
resistors;

- open or short circuit of diodes
rectifier;

- breakage of stretch marks or frame winding
measuring mechanism.

Name: Repair of combined devices.

author: Kuzin V. M., Kuzina O. V.

The principle of operation, design, characteristics and basic rules for the use of combined devices are considered. Basic electrical diagrams, layout diagrams of elements, maps of electrical circuits and other information about domestic and most common foreign combined devices are presented. Practical recommendations on troubleshooting and troubleshooting are given. Proposed for repetition by radio amateurs, developed by the authors and implemented by them in practice, circuits of original measuring devices.

In the practice of measuring, portable combined devices are widely used, allowing you to measure several physical greatness over a wide range of values. The capabilities of portable combined devices can be realized most fully provided that they are properly operated and the influence of their characteristics on the measurement results is taken into account, which requires, first of all, familiarity with the theory of measurements and the availability of the necessary information about combined devices as measuring instruments.
During the operation of portable combined devices, various types of malfunctions can occur, caused both by wear and aging of system elements, and by improper actions of the operator. When repairing these devices, difficulties are possible associated with the lack of element marking on circuit boards or pads, element arrangement diagrams and other necessary information.

Attention!

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Group: Participant
Posts: 9
User #: 109707
Registration: 11-February 15

hello guys, can anyone post here a diagram of c 4342 but do not waste time on c 4342 m -1 they (diagrams) do not match
I nechaino measured the AC voltage in the resistance measurement mode, after which, with each measurement, the device goes off scale

please answer those with a diagram
thanks in advance

Partner in crime

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Posts: 1060
User #: 108807
Registration: 12-December 14
Residence: 056 RU

Attached image (Click to enlarge)

Partner in crime

Group: Participant
Posts: 1060
User #: 108807
Registration: 12-December 14
Residence: 056 RU

Attached image (Click to enlarge)

Partner in crime

Group: Participant
Posts: 1060
User #: 108807
Registration: 12-December 14
Residence: 056 RU

Group: Participant
Posts: 9
User #: 109707
Registration: 11-February 15

Partner in crime

Group: Participant
Posts: 503
User #: 64203
Joined: 2-April 10
Place of residence: Ukraine

Can

This post has been edited tehnik315 - Feb 11 2015, 08:09 PM

Attached file (Number of downloads: 1035)

________4342.zip

Partner in crime

Group: Participant
Posts: 503
User #: 64203
Joined: 2-April 10
Place of residence: Ukraine

Another, one scheme

Attached file (Number of downloads: 765)

______4342.zip

Combined measuring device portable Ts4324, which according to today's classification can be called a multimeter or tester, is designed to measure AC and DC voltages and currents. Ts4324 also allows you to measure resistance. This requires a power supply in the multimeter, i.e. batteries installed in it.

I myself am the owner of two Ts4324, made in the same year but in different batches.

Both devices are identical except for the inscriptions on the bottom covers:

Ts4324 has very wide measurement ranges for all values, not inferior to, and even surpassing many modern multimeters both in accuracy and in capabilities.

The selection of the measuring range is carried out by turning the rotary switch. And the choice of the measurement mode for the variable or constant current / voltage value, or the resistance measurement mode is made by pressing one of the buttons of the 3-key switch.

Those. in order to measure voltage or current using Ts4324, depending on which value is a constant (dash -) or a variable (wave

) it is necessary to press the corresponding switch button. Then select the desired measuring range.

If you do not know what voltage will be measured, always put on the maximum scale first, otherwise burn the device!

Example: Let's consider how you can measure the voltage in an outlet using Ts4324 ..

Ideally, the voltage there is 220 volts AC. Therefore, we press the key with a wave (

i.e. a break). Now you need to select the measurement range. Since we know that the voltage is 220V in the network, then we choose a scale of 300 volts and only after that we insert the test leads of the device into the socket.

Selected 300 volts means that now the entire scale of the device (maximum deviation of the arrow to the right) is 300 volts. Accordingly, the 220 volts we need will be located on the uppermost of the drawn scales (next to each of the scales has its own designation for what it is needed for) at around 22.

In the photo above, the device plugged into the network shows a voltage of about 225 volts.

Alternating voltage (Volts): 3 , 6 , 15 , 60 , 150 , 300 , 600 , 900
Constant voltage (Volt): 0.6 , 1.2 , 3 , 12 , 30 , 60 , 120 , 600 , 1200
DC Current (Miles Amperes): 0.06 , 0.6 , 6 , 60, 600 , 3000
AC Current (Miles Amperes): 0.3 , 3 , 30 , 300 , 3000

Resistance (kOhm): 0.01 , 1 , 10 , 100 , 1000

When measuring the values of alternating voltages and currents, there are restrictions on the frequency range. These limits depend on the selected measuring range and are shown in the tables on the back cover (see figure above). Circuitry for measuring alternating voltages and currents, a rectifier on two D9D diodes is used (see diagram below).

Schematic diagram of the Ts4324 device

Finally, it should be said that the greatest error of the heads of the dial gauges appears in the first third of the scale. In view of this, it is recommended to select the measuring range so that the measured value does not fall on the beginning of the scale.

Ts4324 tester - a dream come true!
GEORGE

Brand new. and defective! A 60 mA shunt burned out.
This is familiar to me - I burned one myself as soon as I received it.

The shunt is dead there - wound from a thin wire.
Not at all suitable for measuring the quiescent current of amplifiers.
They burned it down and put it down, like it will be repaired later.
So it lay disassembled for 30 years - until it caught my eye.
As in those years, I wound the shunt with a normal wire and everything works!
Just as then, the ball was thrown out of the switch retainer.
So that you could turn the handle with one hand.
Here I am so happy!

stm

cooper1960

Siola

Rod & Gor

And I did not have such a device at one time, but three years ago I also bought it at a flea market, and with it I also bought the Prize in addition. Previously, he only met me in the arms of someone, but in a thrift store, he did not see it for sale. I love pointer avometers since childhood, once my father had a carbolite TT-1 in the 60s. It was with this device and Tereshchuk and Dombrugov's 1965 “Handbook of an Amateur Radio” that began my amateur radio and professional career. He burned his head safely through negligence, disassembled it and the poor fellow now lies with me in parts in different places, and completely lost the head when moving. Nostalgia recently tortured me and bought on the occasion a couple of heads for restoration, I even ordered one from Russia. Now, as all the parts are found, I will restore them to the red corner. And sometimes, if the opportunity arises, I buy inexpensively and in any condition all the avometers and other dial gauges that have turned up to me. A lot has already accumulated, while they are simply stored. I cherish the dream of how it will be time to bring them all together and bring gloss and gloss. Of those that have been with me for a long time in life and at work - Ts20, TL-4M and Ts43101. Although digital homes are enough.

bykowina

GEORGE

I bought it in the early 80s for 140 rubles. It was a large amount.
But he was the first digitizer in our workshop.

Rod & Gor

There was a time when having a tester meant a lot in terms of the possibility of repairing household appliances and radio amateurs. It's like an electric drill for a new settler or a craftsman. Without him, as without hands, or rather, as without eyes. Those who remember those times appreciate the devices of those times.

Kirizius

stm

Kirizius

hananchik

I changed this on the forum (I thought so) for a cassette for 300 rubles, so they returned it to me (sent it, but then sent it back by agreement), as I understand it, EXPENSIVE deal turned out! if I need to send, there will be two.

GEORGE

stm

hananchik

I'm waiting for the sum and the card in a personal.

Video (click to play).

GEORGE

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