Ts4312 DIY repair

In detail: ts4312 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Do you need a circuit?
Do you need a cutter?
Is the battery OK?
Is there anything to supply current? On all bands.

Try to check the current on all ranges

When repairing shooters (testers) of the USSR Zhytomyr bottling

first of all, you need to check the constant current, i.e. turn on the tester in the DC current measurement and apply current (at all limits). The resistance measurement resistances are also tied to the current resistances.
Damn, better give me, I'll do it for you!

Set the largest limit on the 4313 DC current measurement (I do not remember, roughly-5 A). Connect a multimeter (digit) to the input terminals. The multimeter will show up to one Ohm somewhere (approximately). Switch 4313 to the next limit (somewhere 1A) The multimeter will show a resistance of the same number of times more (5 Ohm is approximately very). And so all the limits. Look for where the failure is hundreds of times the change in resistance

At the smallest current limit, this rule does not work.

Combined device Ts4312

Electrical diagram and list of components.

When searching for small radio parts that have fallen off the table, the probability of their detection is directly proportional to the size of the part and inversely proportional to their value for completing the work.

Dielectric and diamagnetic screwdrivers can be cut from old fiberglass boards.

For half a day I rummage on the Internet, looking for how to approach the Ts4312 tester. While my husband was alive, he himself repaired everything in the house, called me, etc. Now he is gone, there is no one to ask, in those or only diagrams, or in an “unreadable” format. Thank you very much for explaining the basics in an understandable language. Maybe you can answer how to ring the integrity of the wire and check the battery or light bulb? For a specialist, this is elementary, but for a woman who first took a tester in her hands, it is a mystery sealed with seven seals. Thank you in advance! Best regards, Lyudmila Mikhailovna

Video (click to play).

3.Battery Test 1.5v. ... 20 volts: Connect the test leads to the left and right contacts.
- set the switch on the front panel to position V for the selected measurement limit, for example, no more than 30 volts or no more than 7.5 volts. ... at the bottom, use the keys to switch the measurement of DC voltage (__) or AC (

). That is, for the battery, you must press (__).
- now if the probes are connected to the Plus-Minus of the battery, the arrow will show the measured voltage in volts. And if the arrow deviates to the left beyond the scale, then it is necessary to change the polarity of the probes. Read the readings from the voltage scale of your choice -V or Ohm resistance (kOhm).
Do not measure the voltage in the network

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JLCPCB, 10 PP prototypes for only $ 2 and 2 days delivery!

_________________
Dolby, but not surround
Zen 4, Aleph 3 - and nothing else is needed.

_________________
do not connect the equipment to the network so as not to go beyond the OBR

_________________
Dolby, but not surround
Zen 4, Aleph 3 - and nothing else is needed.

_________________
do not connect the equipment to the network so as not to go beyond the OBR

_________________
Dolby, but not surround
Zen 4, Aleph 3 - and nothing else is needed.

Time zone: UTC + 3 hours [Daylight Saving Time]

Users browsing this forum: - = Andrey = - and guests: 7

Of course * and * so * is possible. I * search * get it * a little ** a little * lighter e. * I * have ** 65 * years old, * got sick * on * heart * full * forward * strict o * forbidden. these * 2 * documents * found l * and * before * downloaded. * Thank you * for * the answer. 73 de OM6SK Jaro

Added after 17 minutes (s):

Here * this * is * correct * n yt * for * me * an old man. Thanks a lot . I * downloaded * the book * to * something * such * I * hoped. means * I'm ** lucky *. ... p. 162 * maps. 91 ** and * now * in * small, * n slightly * will be * in * m oim * measures * ** full * forward *! 73 de OM6SK Jaro

I'm sorry - R7, not R10 - was wrong. Attached file (green resistance).

Thank you for instructions on how to use it. I got the device without a back cover, which I found on the Internet (description of the device - video clip), so I used it.

Added by (22.12.2016, 13:16)
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I have 2 diodes on the measuring head (they can be seen on the previously attached file 8643591), but in the manual in the photo there are no “guts”.

Added by (22.12.2016, 13:30)
———————————————
I read the instructions. That's what I did. All my actions are confirmed by the file _4354-1-.docx in the first message. If it does not open, let me know - I will expose it in separate files.

Message # 11 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 17:53

Message # 12 ROW »27 Nov 2016, 17:59

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Message # 13 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 18:02

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Message # 17 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 19:58

Message # 18 VVKV »27 Nov 2016, 20:01

Message # 19 AnSm »27 Nov 2016, 21:06

Message # 20 chkmatulla »27 Nov 2016, 22:01

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?
3. In resistance meter mode, what does it say?
4. Is the battery normal? Half-demagnetizing the head is anrial. If the arrow walks freely, then all in a bundle you need to look for a jamb in the body kit, a broken conductor, etc.

Attached image (Click to enlarge)

Name: Repair of combined devices.

author: Kuzin V.M., Kuzina O.V.

The principle of operation, design, characteristics and basic rules for the use of combined devices are considered. Basic electrical diagrams, layout diagrams of elements, maps of electrical circuits and other information about domestic and most common foreign combined devices are presented. Practical recommendations for troubleshooting and troubleshooting are given. Proposed for repetition by radio amateurs, developed by the authors and implemented in practice, circuits of original measuring devices.

In the practice of measuring, portable combined devices have become widespread, which make it possible to measure several physical magnitudes over a wide range of values. The capabilities of portable combined devices can be realized most fully provided that they are properly operated and the influence of their characteristics on the measurement results is taken into account, which requires, first of all, familiarity with the theory of measurements and the availability of the necessary information about combined devices as measuring instruments.
During the operation of portable combined devices, various types of malfunctions can occur, caused both by wear and aging of system elements, and by improper actions of the operator. When repairing these devices, difficulties are possible associated with the lack of element marking on circuit boards or blocks, element arrangement diagrams and other necessary information.

It is quite within the power of every user who is well acquainted with the basics of electronics and electrical engineering to independently organize and repair the multimeter. But before embarking on such a repair, you must try to figure out the nature of the damage that has occurred.

It is most convenient to check the serviceability of the device at the initial stage of repair by inspecting its electronic circuit.For this case, the following troubleshooting rules have been developed:

it is necessary to carefully examine the printed circuit board of the multimeter, on which there may be clearly distinguishable factory defects and errors;
special attention should be paid to the presence of unwanted short circuits and poor-quality soldering, as well as defects on the terminals at the edges of the board (in the area of the display connection). For repairs, you will have to use soldering;
factory errors most often manifest themselves in the fact that the multimeter does not show what it should according to the instructions, and therefore its display is examined first of all.

If the multimeter gives incorrect readings in all modes and IC1 heats up, then you need to inspect the connectors to check the transistors. If the long leads are closed, then the repair will consist only in opening them.

In total, a sufficient number of visually detectable faults can accumulate. You can familiarize yourself with some of them in the table and then eliminate it yourself. (to the address: Before repairing, it is necessary to study the multimeter circuits, which are usually given in the passport.

If they want to check the serviceability and repair the multimeter indicator, then they usually resort to using an additional device that produces a signal of a suitable frequency and amplitude (50-60 Hz and units of volts). In its absence, you can use a multimeter type M832 with the function of generating rectangular pulses (meander).

To diagnose and repair the multimeter display, you need to remove the working board from the device case and select a position convenient for checking the indicator contacts (screen up). After that, you should connect the end of one probe to the common terminal of the indicator under investigation (it is located in the bottom row, the far left), and alternately touch the other end to the signal outputs of the display. In this case, all its segments should light up one after the other according to the wiring of the signal buses, which should be read separately. Normal "operation" of the tested segments in all modes indicates that the display is working properly.

Additional Information. This malfunction most often manifests itself during the operation of a digital multimeter, in which its measuring part fails and needs to be repaired extremely rarely (provided that the instructions are followed).

The last remark concerns only constant values, when measuring which the multimeter is well protected against overloads. Serious difficulties in identifying the reasons for the failure of the device are most often encountered when determining the resistances of the circuit section and in the dialing mode.

In this mode, typical malfunctions, as a rule, appear in the measuring ranges up to 200 and up to 2000 Ohm. When an extraneous voltage enters the input, as a rule, resistors under the designations R5, R6, R10, R18 burn out, as well as the transistor Q1. In addition, the capacitor C6 often breaks through. The consequences of exposure to extraneous potential are manifested as follows:

when the Q1 triode is completely "burnt out", when determining the resistance, the multimeter shows one zeros;
in case of incomplete breakdown of the transistor, the device with open ends should show the resistance of its junction.

Note! In other measurement modes, this transistor is short-circuited and therefore has no effect on the display.

With a breakdown of C6, the multimeter will not work at the measuring limits of 20, 200 and 1000 Volts (the option of a strong understatement of the reading is not excluded).

If the multimeter constantly beeps when dialing or is silent, then the reason may be poor-quality soldering of the pins of IC2. The repair consists in careful soldering.

Inspection and repair of an inoperative multimeter, the malfunction of which is not related to the cases already considered, is recommended to start with checking the voltage of 3 Volts on the ADC supply bus.In this case, first of all, it is necessary to make sure that there is no breakdown between the supply terminal and the common terminal of the converter.

The disappearance of indication elements on the display screen in the presence of a supply voltage converter with a high degree of probability indicates damage to its circuit. The same conclusion can be made when a significant number of circuit elements located near the ADC are burned out.

Important! In practice, this node "burns out" only when a sufficiently high voltage (more than 220 volts) hits its input, which manifests itself visually in the form of cracks in the module compound.

Before talking about repairs, you need to check. A simple way to test the ADC for suitability for further operation is to dial its terminals using a known working multimeter of the same class. Note that the case when the second multimeter incorrectly shows the measurement results is not suitable for such a check.

When preparing for operation, the device is switched to the diode “ringing” mode, and the measuring end of the wire in red insulation is connected to the “minus power” output of the microcircuit. Following this black probe, each of its signal legs is sequentially touched. Since there are protective diodes at the inputs of the circuit, connected in the opposite direction, after applying a forward voltage from a third-party multimeter, they should open.

The fact of their opening is recorded on the display in the form of a voltage drop across the junction of the semiconductor element. Similarly, the circuit is checked when a probe in black insulation is connected to pin 1 (+ ADC power supply) and then touching all other pins. In this case, the indications on the display screen should be the same as in the first case.

When the polarity of the connection of the second measuring device is changed, its indicator always shows an open circuit, since the input resistance of the working microcircuit is large enough. In this case, the conclusions will be considered faulty, in both cases showing the final resistance value. If, for any of the described connection options, the multimeter shows an open circuit, this most likely indicates an internal circuit break.

Since modern ADCs are most often produced in an integral version (without a case), it is rare for anyone to replace them. So if the converter is burnt out, then the multimeter cannot be repaired, it cannot be repaired.

Repair will be required if there are malfunctions associated with the loss of contact in the rotary switch. This is manifested not only in the fact that the multimeter does not turn on, but also in the impossibility of obtaining a normal connection without pressing hard on the biscuit. This is explained by the fact that in cheap Chinese multimeters, the contact tracks are rarely covered with high-quality grease, which leads to their rapid oxidation.

When used in dusty conditions, for example, they become dirty over time and lose contact with the switch strip. To repair this multimeter unit, it is enough to remove the printed circuit board from its case and wipe the contact tracks with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Then a thin layer of high-quality technical petroleum jelly should be applied to them.

In conclusion, we note that if factory "missing" or contact closures are detected in the multimeter, these shortcomings should be eliminated using a low-voltage soldering iron with a well-honed tip. If you are not completely sure of the reason for the breakdown of the device, you should contact a repair specialist for measuring equipment.

Combined measuring instrument portable Ts4324, which according to today's classification can be called a multimeter or tester, is designed to measure AC and DC voltages and currents. Also Ts4324 allows you to measure resistance. This requires a power supply in the multimeter, i.e. batteries installed in it.

I myself am the owner of two Ts4324, made in the same year but in different batches.

Both devices are identical except for the inscriptions on the bottom covers:

Ts4324 has very wide measurement ranges for all values, not inferior to, and even surpassing many modern multimeters both in accuracy and in capabilities.

The measuring range is selected by turning the rotary switch. And the choice of the measurement mode for the variable or constant current / voltage value, or the resistance measurement mode is made by pressing one of the buttons of the 3-key switch.

Those. in order to measure voltage or current using Ts4324, depending on which value is a constant (dash -) or a variable (wave

) it is necessary to press the corresponding switch button. Then select the desired measuring range.

If you do not know what voltage will be measured, always put on the maximum scale first, otherwise burn the device!

Example: Let's consider how you can measure the voltage in an outlet using Ts4324 ..

Ideally, the voltage there is 220 volts AC. Therefore, we press the key with a wave (

i.e. a break). Now you need to select the measurement range. Since we know that the voltage is 220V in the network, then we choose a scale of 300 volts and only after that we insert the test leads of the device into the socket.

Selected 300 volts means that now the entire scale of the device (maximum deviation of the arrow to the right) is 300 volts. Accordingly, the 220 volts we need will be located on the uppermost of the drawn scales (next to each of the scales has its own designation for what it is needed for) at around 22.

In the photo above, the device plugged into the network shows a voltage of about 225 volts.

Alternating voltage (Volts): 3 , 6 , 15 , 60 , 150 , 300 , 600 , 900
Constant voltage (Volt): 0.6 , 1.2 , 3 , 12 , 30 , 60 , 120 , 600 , 1200
DC Current (Miles Amperes): 0.06 , 0.6 , 6 , 60, 600 , 3000
AC Current (Miles Amperes): 0.3 , 3 , 30 , 300 , 3000

Resistance (kOhm): 0.01 , 1 , 10 , 100 , 1000

When measuring the values of alternating voltages and currents, there are restrictions on the frequency range. These limits depend on the selected measuring range and are shown in the tables on the back cover (see figure above). Circuitry for measuring alternating voltages and currents, a rectifier on two D9D diodes is used (see diagram below).

Schematic diagram of the Ts4324 device

Finally, it should be said that the greatest error of the heads of the dial gauges appears in the first third of the scale. In view of this, it is recommended to select the measuring range so that the measured value does not fall on the beginning of the scale.

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Design and support:
Aleksandr Kuznetsov

Technical support: Mikhail Bulakh

Programming: Danil Monchukin

Marketing: Tatiana Anastasyeva

Translation: Natalia Kuznetsova

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made in Ukraine

Schematic diagrams and service manuals

Domestic combined devices

The following documentation may be available for the Ts4312 measuring device:

Schematic diagram of the combined device Ts4312 (order) (download)

Repair and adjustment manual for the combined instrument C4312 (order) (download)

Operating instructions for the combined instrument C4312 (order) (download)

You can always order a circuit diagram for a combined device Ts4312.

The possibility of ordering a manual for repair and adjustment, as well as operating instructions for the combined device Ts4312, please specify additionally.

Recommended to download in our Free Technical Library:

It is quite within the power of every user who is well acquainted with the basics of electronics and electrical engineering to independently organize and repair the multimeter. But before proceeding with such a repair, you must try to figure out the nature of the damage that has occurred.

It is most convenient to check the serviceability of the device at the initial stage of repair by inspecting its electronic circuit. For this case, the following troubleshooting rules have been developed:

it is necessary to carefully examine the printed circuit board of the multimeter, on which there may be clearly distinguishable factory defects and errors;
special attention should be paid to the presence of unwanted short circuits and poor-quality soldering, as well as defects on the terminals at the edges of the board (in the area of the display connection). For repairs, you will have to use soldering;
factory errors most often manifest themselves in the fact that the multimeter does not show what it should according to the instructions, and therefore its display is examined first of all.

when the Q1 triode is completely "burnt out", when determining the resistance, the multimeter shows one zeros;
in case of incomplete breakdown of the transistor, the device with open ends should show the resistance of its junction.

Note! In other measurement modes, this transistor is short-circuited and therefore has no effect on the display.

With a breakdown of C6, the multimeter will not work at the measuring limits of 20, 200 and 1000 Volts (the option of a strong understatement of the reading is not excluded).

If the multimeter constantly beeps when dialing or is silent, then the reason may be poor-quality soldering of the pins of IC2. The repair consists in careful soldering.

Inspection and repair of an inoperative multimeter, the malfunction of which is not related to the cases already considered, is recommended to start with checking the voltage of 3 Volts on the ADC supply bus. In this case, first of all, it is necessary to make sure that there is no breakdown between the supply terminal and the common terminal of the converter.

Important! In practice, this node "burns out" only when a sufficiently high voltage (more than 220 volts) hits its input, which manifests itself visually in the form of cracks in the module compound.

Attention!

Attention! Before creating a topic on the forum, use the search! A user who created a theme that has already been will be banned immediately! Read the rules for naming topics.Users who created a topic with incomprehensible titles, for example: "Help, Scheme, Resistor, Help, etc." will also be locked forever. A user who created a topic not in the forum section will be immediately banned! Respect the forum and you will also be respected!

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Attached image (Click to enlarge)

there is a chain 4315 lying shamelessly when measuring voltages, especially changes
Someone soldered for some unknown reason, everything was soldered
if there is anyone - to throw off there is the possibility of a photo of the disassembled the same chain, especially of the switch block
help kind people
on resistances, only ohms shows, kilo-ohms - it goes off scale immediately when the mode is turned on
PYSY.
I live far from cyclization - in our store only rosin and tin can be found. there is no other place to acquire.

[Message modified by user 01/21/2011 11:11 PM]

[Message modified by user 01/21/2011 20:43]

Well, throw it out, mnu 4317 is also "fried" with its own hands lying around, so he really is 17-20 years old, when he looked what's inside. immediately put it back together. I use two HIOKI shops (pure Japanese) for everything about everything.

About pictures from "MEK" - Krasnoarmeiskaya .. Ts4317 has not changed externally ..

... kapets. not a bad device, but it was 15 years ago. was assembled on the "wires"., open, and be horrified, as if it was made in a Chinese village. Kapets Ukrainians make old stuff.

Bukhalov. After all, you are the famous Bukhalov.

And why don't you have a lot of moss, that a number of radio amateurs are accustomed to analog circuits, and a number to digital ones? The same can be said in relation to various “circuit design”.

1) I will never take a tseshka for 200 rubles in my hands, here's another mess.
For this there is a number of (unsold brands), the same Japanese HIOKI-3240, it is generally little known in the Russian market.

2) A number of measurements during debugging and testing, you cannot do a digital test at all.

Video (click to play).

[Message modified by user 01/21/2011 20:01]

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