Tucson DIY repair

Model: Hyundai Tuscon

Model: Hyundai Tuscon

Years of issue: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Model: Hyundai Tuscon

Years of issue: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Model: Hyundai Tuscon

Years of issue: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Model: Hyundai Tuscon

Years of issue: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Model: Hyundai Tuscon

Years of issue: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

To change the oil in the engine, we remove the protection of the engine compartment - in it, which is bad, there are no holes for access to the drain plug and filter. Perhaps, instead of a standard plastic sheet, your car has a non-original, power one, where there are such holes, but we are considering a basic version.

Hyundai Tucson: Find the engine filter without prompts. Drain plugs of the engine, bevel gear and automatic transmission are marked with red arrows, the filler plug of the gearbox is green.

We unscrew five bolts under the key "12" and remove, in addition, two pistons. In any case, take care of your eyes: whatever the protection may be, a lot of dirt strives to crumble from it. We unscrew the plug with the key "17", and the filter - with any of the well-known pullers, there is quite enough room for maneuver here.

Before changing antifreeze, stock up on a new radiator drain plug. Being plastic, it shrinks over time, and it is rarely possible to securely wrap it in place. If there is no new plug, then it is better not to touch the old one at all, but to drain the liquid through the lower radiator pipe, having previously removed the clamp.

Here, next to it, are the automatic transmission heat exchanger hoses, through which dealers change the oil using a special installation (ATF Fluid Charger). Having connected the same hoses to it, they simultaneously remove the old oil through one of them and pour fresh oil through the other. It turns out quickly, but wasteful - you have to drive one and a half to two volumes of oil through the system. Therefore, some experts use a different technique, which we recommend. Moreover, in this case, the installation is not needed - its role will be performed by the pump of the box itself.

We do this: remove the lower hose from the heat exchanger and, starting the engine, move the selector to the "N" (neutral) position. Let the engine run, but only at idle speed and no more than a minute. If all the oil has drained out earlier (air bubbles appeared), turn off the engine immediately! It is important not to miss this moment, otherwise even a short oil starvation can harm the unit. Therefore, it is better to crank the engine with a starter, unscrewing the candles and disconnecting the ignition and power circuits (for this, we take out the corresponding relays and fuses). Of course, after each ten-second scroll, let the starter cool down - otherwise it will simply burn out. We drain the remaining oil from the box by unscrewing the plug in the crankcase. Then we return the plug to its place (tightening torque 32 Nm) and fill in fresh oil through the dipstick tube.

Now we start the engine, let it warm up and, moving the selector lever in all positions with a two-second delay in each of them, leave it in position "N". Without turning off the engine, we check the level: on a warmed-up unit, it should be in the "HOT" range, marked on the tip of the dipstick. Keep in mind that both a low and an increased level are detrimental to the unit, since in both cases the oil will foam.

With changing the oil in the manual gearbox, everything is much easier, you can handle it without prompts. Nothing complicated with gearboxes. When going from front to back, do not forget to sprinkle the single crosspiece. You may have to disconnect the gimbal flange to do this, so that you can open the hinge to a sufficient angle and get close to the grease nipple with the nose of the syringe.

Hyundai Tucson: If access to the grease nipple is obstructed by the yoke forks, disconnect the propeller shaft flange. It is advisable to mark it with respect to the drive shaft in order to prevent unbalance.

We change the candles: using the "10" key, unscrew the two bolts of the engine decorative lining and remove the wire ends from the wells.When assembling them, it is difficult to confuse them - there is a cylinder number marking on each wire and the output of the coils. Candles - turnkey "16". But it is so rosy only on the inline four, which the test car is equipped with. On the V6, everything is much more complicated, since access to the rear head (the engine stands transversely) is, to put it mildly, useless - you need to remove the intake manifold. However, not necessarily completely. It is enough to lift it after unscrewing the fasteners and fix it in this position by substituting, for example, a screwdriver under the "spider". Now, wielding a compound tool, you can at least change the candles. Some go the other way - remove the frill and the wiper mechanism. But we repeat: what's on the forehead, what's on the forehead is very troublesome.

The air filter was dealt with quickly. True, it happens that the element sticks firmly to the body - in this case, carefully separate it with a screwdriver. On V6, check the tightening of the corrugation clamp to the throttle assembly, otherwise, due to the slightest air leak, the engine will start to mope.

The fuel filter is located inside the submersible pump in the gas tank.

Hyundai Tucson: After unscrewing the hinge bolts of the left section of the rear seat, raise the cushion and fix it with a seat belt. Removing the floor hatch gives excellent access to the fuel pump.

A floor hatch under the single section of the rear seat cushion is provided, but normal access to it is not. It's all about the decorative overlays of the pillow hinges, which must be removed to access the fasteners of the hinges themselves. Who thought of providing these plastics with such powerful hooks, which, in fact, cannot be broken off ?! So we, no matter how careful we were, nevertheless broke a couple of antennae. But then things went more fun. Because the pump flange is attached to the tank with ordinary nuts (no special key is needed), and removing the filter element cartridge is no more difficult than usual. The main thing is to work in a warm place, so as not to break off the plastic latches of the pump housing.

The attachments are driven by three belts, and none of them has an automatic tensioner. And this is bad, because, for lack of experience, it is easy to make a mistake with the setting. If you are confident in your abilities, remove the engine compartment protection (see above) and the right mudguard - down with four more “10” bolts. This will open access to the tensioner roller of the air conditioning compressor.

Hyundai Tucson: Tighten the air conditioner belt: by loosening the tension roller nut, rotate the lead screw (shown by the arrow). Check the belt tension again after the fasteners are tightened.

We pull the power steering belt from under the hood, and in the old old-fashioned way - by loosening the fasteners, we displace the pump with a mounting or a powerful screwdriver. The worst thing is with access to the generator lead screw - both from the top and from the bottom you have to work by touch. In general, for these operations we significantly reduce the grade. But these works, whatever one may say, will have to be done when replacing the timing drive.

Hyundai Tucson: It is more difficult to tension the alternator belt due to poor access to the adjusting screw (arrow). But this is the most important drive from which the power steering pump works.

Well, if you figured out the V-ribbed belts, then you can handle the timing. The only task is to remove the support of the power unit, without which the casing covers, and the belt itself cannot be removed. But further - no curiosities: on all pulleys there are fixing pins and marks that allow you to assemble the drive unambiguously correctly, and the tension roller is equipped with a semi-automatic tensioner. It is important only after the first adjustment to crank the crankshaft a couple of turns and check the tension again. Usually, when the belt is completely settled, an adjustment is required.

We did not experience any particular difficulties with the rest of the work as part of the scheduled maintenance. At least with the replacement of pads.

Hyundai Tucson: Changing the front pads, unscrew the lower guide bolt with a 14 key, holding it with a 17 key. We put a new plate from the repair kit on the frame of the inner shoe.

Here it is only important to install them correctly: both in front and in the back, the limit wear plate-squeak should be on the top of the inner block. The tightening torque of the wheel nuts is 110 Nm.

Hyundai Tucson: Rear brake - to access the parking brake pads, remove the bracket by unscrewing two bolts of its fastening with a key "14" (arrows). It is more convenient to use a multi-sided spanner key.

Nothing hinders replacement of bulbs in the right headlight. On the left, it is a little more difficult - for convenience, the intake tract to the engine air filter was removed by removing two pistons. The lanterns had to be removed to replace the lamps, and this required a tool. It’s bad that such a scheme is becoming the norm for most modern cars.

Hyundai Tucson: The sockets for the turn signal lamps are in light gray, and the dimensions are in black (shown by arrows). The H4 lamp is located under the hood (marked with an oval). Access is acceptable.

We are grateful to the Avtomir company in Maryino for assistance in preparing the material.

The presented Hyundai Tucson repair manual contains technical information on the repair work of these vehicles with engines G4G6 (DOHC, 2.0 l), G6BA (V6,2,7 l). The entire repair process is supported by color photographs, which greatly simplifies the repair procedure and shortens the time of work.
The repair technology was selected in relation to the conditions of the garage using a universal tool.

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What is a timing belt - this is a certain element that acts as a link connecting the crankshaft and the camshaft. The crankshaft rotates according to the principle of bicycle gears due to the pistons, and the camshaft, in turn, opens the valves at the highest point [. ]

Doctors do not approve of self-medication, but some procedures are allowed to be done on their own. So it is with the Hyundai-Tussan service: some of the work can be done by yourself.

LACQUER AND LUBRICANT

To change the oil in the engine, we remove the protection of the engine compartment - in it, which is bad, there are no holes for access to the drain plug and filter. Perhaps, instead of a standard plastic sheet, your car has a non-original, power one, where there are such holes, but we are considering a basic version.

You will find the engine filter without prompts. Drain plugs of the engine, bevel gear and automatic transmission are marked with red arrows, the filler plug of the gearbox is green.

If access to the grease nipple is obstructed by the yoke forks, disconnect the universal joint flange. It is advisable to mark it with respect to the drive shaft in order to prevent unbalance.

CARDIAC SURGERY

We change the candles: using the "10" key, unscrew the two bolts of the engine decorative lining and remove the wire ends from the wells. When assembling them, it is difficult to confuse them - there is a cylinder number marking on each wire and the output of the coils. Candles - turnkey "16". But it is so rosy only on the inline four, which the test car is equipped with. On the V6, everything is much more complicated, since access to the rear head (the engine stands transversely) is, to put it mildly, useless - you need to remove the intake manifold. However, not necessarily completely. It is enough to lift it after unscrewing the fasteners and fix it in this position by substituting, for example, a screwdriver under the "spider". Now, wielding a compound tool, you can at least change the candles.Some go the other way - remove the frill and the wiper mechanism. But we repeat: what's on the forehead, what's on the forehead is very troublesome.
The air filter was dealt with quickly. True, it happens that the element sticks firmly to the body - in this case, carefully separate it with a screwdriver. On V6, check the tightening of the corrugation clamp to the throttle assembly, otherwise, due to the slightest air leak, the engine will start to mope.
The fuel filter is located inside the submersible pump in the gas tank.

Having unscrewed the bolts of the hinges of the left section of the rear seat, raise the pillow and fix it with a seat belt. Removing the floor hatch gives excellent access to the fuel pump.

A floor hatch under the single section of the rear seat cushion is provided, but normal access to it is not. It's all about the decorative overlays of the pillow hinges, which must be removed to access the fasteners of the hinges themselves. Who thought of providing these plastics with such powerful hooks, which, in fact, cannot be broken off ?! So we, no matter how careful we were, nevertheless broke a couple of antennae. But then things went more fun. Because the pump flange is attached to the tank with ordinary nuts (no special key is needed), and removing the filter element cartridge is no more difficult than usual. The main thing is to work in a warm place, so as not to break off the plastic latches of the pump housing.
The attachments are driven by three belts and none of them has an automatic tensioner. And this is bad, because, for lack of experience, it is easy to make a mistake with the setting. If you are confident in your abilities, remove the engine compartment protection (see above) and the right mudguard - down with four more “10” bolts. This will open access to the tensioner roller of the air conditioning compressor.

We tighten the air conditioner belt: by loosening the tension roller nut, we rotate the lead screw (shown by the arrow). Check the belt tension again after the fasteners are tightened.

We pull the power steering belt from under the hood, and in the old old-fashioned way - by loosening the fasteners, we displace the pump with a mounting or a powerful screwdriver. The worst thing is with access to the generator lead screw - both from the top and from the bottom you have to work by touch. In general, for these operations we significantly lower the grade. But these works, whatever one may say, will have to be done when replacing the timing drive.

It is more difficult to tension the alternator belt due to poor access to the adjusting screw (arrow). But this is the most important drive from which the power steering pump works.

Well, if you figured out the V-ribbed belts, then you can handle the timing. The only task is to remove the support of the power unit, without which the casing covers, and the belt itself cannot be removed. But further - no curiosities: on all pulleys there are fixing pins and marks that allow you to assemble the drive unambiguously correctly, and the tension roller is equipped with a semi-automatic tensioner. It is important only after the first adjustment to crank the crankshaft a couple of turns and check the tension again. Usually, when the belt is completely settled, an adjustment is required.

We did not experience any particular difficulties with the rest of the work as part of the scheduled maintenance. At least with the replacement of pads.

Changing the front pads, unscrew the bottom bolt of the guide with a key "14", holding it with a key "17". We put a new plate from the repair kit on the frame of the inner shoe.

Here it is only important to install them correctly: both in front and in the back, the limit wear plate-squeak should be on the top of the inner block. The tightening torque of the wheel nuts is 110 Nm.

Rear brake: to access the parking brake pads, remove the bracket by unscrewing the two bolts of its fastening (arrows) with a 14 key. It is more convenient to use a multi-sided spanner key.

Nothing hinders replacement of bulbs in the right headlight. On the left, it is a little more difficult - for convenience, the intake tract to the engine air filter was removed by removing two pistons. The lanterns had to be removed to replace the lamps, and this required a tool. It’s bad that such a scheme is becoming the norm for most modern cars.

The sockets for the turn signal lamps are in a light gray color, and the marker in black (shown by arrows). The H4 lamp is located under the hood (marked with an oval). Access is acceptable.

It is better to unscrew the plugs of the rear axle gearbox with a head with small chamfers. It is easy to rip off the low edges of the plugs with a spanner, and even more so with an open key.

Having loosened the two bolts (shown by arrows), we displace the power steering pump with a mounting, achieving normal belt tension. Experienced car enthusiasts are well aware of this technique.

I drove 8000 km. it's time to change the oil.

decided to try Metas oil

I change the washers every time the oil is changed

On examination, fogging was noticed on the right side of the rear gearbox. decided to replace the oil seal

buy HYUNDAI 5306839200 O-RING DIFFERENTIAL price 210r

HYUNDAI 495572D000 Cv joint retaining ring 23.40 piece

jack. securely fasten, drain the oil. unscrew the two rods take out the shaft

On the Internet, I found an excel file where MOT is indicated by mileage and their approximate cost. Which is what I share.

The most expensive MOT on a mileage of 60, 120, 180 thousand km. there replacement of candles, timing, etc.

THAT with the replacement of the timing, tensioners, rollers, candles is done on the Hyundai Tucson 2007 2.7 liter engine. every 60 thousand run. THOSE. 60, 120, 180 thous.

The cost of consumables for the engine maintenance was 23,068 rubles

The cost of the work was 11,140 rubles

A feature of the 2.7-liter Tucson, Santa Fe engines is that the timing roller mounting bolt sticks and breaks the thread. Fortunately, the minders of Boxing No. 167 where I am on Nemirovich-Danchenko 60a / 1 where I did my MOT were able to restore the thread of the timing roller.

The total cost of maintenance for replacing the timing belt, tensioners, rollers, spark plugs, etc. amounted to 34208 rubles.

Dynamics up to hundreds according to the passport 10.5 sec.

2.7 l. it is a dynamic car with a city consumption of 13.5 liters. (my real expense) i.e. 1.5 liters. slightly more than 2.0 liters.

By switching the automatic transmission to manual mode, you simply squeeze into the car seat. The box itself shifts one gear up when it reaches the red zone. It cannot be described, it must be tried.

But for this I did the following:

1) I installed the Paulus firmware from Aleksandr (found it on the Paulus office website), which added vigor to my jerboa, at the same time the lamba probe was turned off.

Fuel consumption in the city in summer for a 2.7 liter engine. according to the passport is 13.2 liters. I have it 13.5 liters per hundred in the summer in the city.

If the consumption is greater, then one of the reasons is the automatic transmission, which will soon break down and you will stick in for 70,000 rubles.

The only thing that is bad in this car is that the automatic transmission oil filter is located in the box itself and to replace it, you need to remove the subframe, wheels, disassemble the entire bottom of the car, remove the box, this procedure is time consuming and costly. It costs from 12,000 rubles. excluding oil and filters.

Before zero maintenance, I visited the service center once. It was necessary to buy coolant in order to top up the system after installing the Webasto heater. The circus began immediately. Instead of the diluted concentrate that I requested, I was prescribed two liters of concentrate in two liter containers. Realizing the mistake, for half an hour we thought about where to get the diluted concentrate, which was not found as a result, and how to return a liter of concentrate back. As a result, they took away the liquid, returned the money for the second bottle, pleaded guilty and issued one and a half liters of distilled water as moral damage.

Hello everyone . Some time ago, a knock appeared on the left in front when driving over irregularities. drove onto the flyover climbed swayed the left stabilizer bar was sentenced. I decided to put the CTP on the previous car, and put the spare parts of this company proved to be good. I ordered the order number CLKH23 in the online store. the price is 370 rubles. The next day I took it.

Since the installation is not difficult, we change it ourselves.

On top of the nut on 19 from below on 17 in the new rack, both of them on 17 we put them naturally.

After the wheel was jacked and removed, put something under the lever and lower it on it to relieve stress from the stabilizer, I used a piece of bar.

hyundai tucson remove the steering rack very easily

Repair of a steering rack on Hyundai Tucson. Repair of a steering rack on a car Hyundai Tucson