U140f DIY repair

The site provides information on automatic transmissions
Automatic transmission schemes, variators. The principles of the units.
Repair, disassembly and assembly of automatic transmission.

8. INSTALL 1st GEAR AND REVERSE BRAKE
(a) Using a vernier caliper, measure the distance between the disc surface and the contact surface of the 2nd brake cylinder and transmission housing (dimension A).
(b) Select a flange to match the specified stroke length.
Piston stroke: 1.10 - 1.24 mm (0.0433 - 0.0488 in)

NOTE: Stroke = Dimension A - Flange Thickness

9. INSTALL 2nd GEAR BRAKE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY, NO.

(a) Install the 2nd brake cylinder assembly to the transaxle case.
(b) Install the snap ring and measure the inner diameter.
Inner diameter: over 167 mm (6.57 inches)

NOTE: Please note that the tapered circlip must be installed in a specific position. If the diameter is not correct, replace the snap ring.

(c) Install the outer freewheel race onto the 2nd brake cylinder assembly.

NOTE: Check the direction of installation of the outer race.

(d) Install the inner ring into the freewheel.

NOTE: Check the direction of the inner ring.

(e) Check free play and free wheel rotation blocking as shown in the illustration.

(f) Install the # 1 freewheel and bearing onto the outer race of the freewheel.

Bearing diameter: mm (inch)
Internal 53.6 (2.110)
Outdoor 69.6 (2.740)

NOTE: Install the clutch push bearing so the black ring is visible.

(g) Coat thrust washer No. 1 with petroleum jelly and install on the rear planetary sun gear.

(h) Coat the bearing with petroleum jelly and install it on the rear planetary sun gear.

Bearing diameter: mm (inch)
Internal 33.7 (1.327)
Outside 48.2 (1.898)

(i) Install the rear planetary sun gear assembly to the rear planetary gear.

10. INSTALL THE 2nd GEAR BRAKE

(a) Install the 4 discs and 4 plates to the transaxle case.
(b) Temporarily install the snap ring.

(c) Using a vernier caliper, measure the distance between the surface of the disc and the surface of the circlip.
(d) Select a flange to match the specified stroke length.
Piston stroke: 0.65 - 0.75 mm (0.0256 - 0.0295 in)

HINT: Stroke = clearance - flange thickness - retaining ring thickness 1.6 mm (0.063 in).

(e) Temporarily remove the snap ring, attach the selected flange and reinstall the snap ring.

NOTE: Secure the circlip so that the gap in its cut is visible through the groove in the transmission housing.

11. INSTALL DIRECT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

(a) Install the bearing ring onto the direct clutch.

Bearing ring diameter: mm (inch)
Internal 30.3 (1.193)
Outside 46.0 (1.811)

(b) Install the direct clutch assembly and clutch thrust bearing to the rear planetary sun gear assembly.

NOTE: The disc in the direct clutch must be completely aligned with the bushing installed outside the rear planetary sun gear. Otherwise, the rear cover cannot be installed.

(c) Clean the attachable part of the transaxle case and the rear cover.
(d) Install a straight edge on the direct clutch drum as shown in the illustration and measure the distance between the transmission housing and a straight edge using a vernier caliper (dimension B).

(e) Measure at two points of the back cover as shown in the illustration and calculate the C dimension using the following formula.

NOTE: Dimension C = Dimension (1) - Dimension (2)

(f) Calculate the axial play using the following formula. Select a clutch thrust bearing that matches the end play value and install it.
End play: 0.2 - 0.9 mm (0.008 - 0.035 in.)

NOTE: Make sure the black side of the ring is towards the rear cover.

NOTE: End play = dimension C - dimension B

12. INSTALL 2 NEW GASKETS

(a) Place the clamp on the tube.

NOTE: Be sure to install the clip onto the tube before attaching the tube to the transmission case. This will avoid deformation and damage to the tube.

(b) Install the 2 tubes to the transaxle case and secure them with the bolt.
Tightening torque: 5.4 N · m (55 kgf · cm, 48 lbf · in)

NOTE: Insert each tube securely until it stops.

14. INSTALL TRANSMISSION REAR COVER

(a) Coat the 2 ATF oil o-rings and install them on the rear cover of the transmission.

(b) Remove all sealant. Make sure that no oil gets on the mating surfaces of the rear cover of the gearbox and the gearbox housing
(c) Apply FIPG to the back cover. FIPG (Liquid Anaerobic Sealant): Part number 08826–00090, THREE BOND 1281 or equivalent.
(d) Coat the needle roller bearing with ATF.

(e) Apply liquid sealant to the threads of the bolts “A”. Sealant: Part # 08833–00080, THREE BOND 1344, LOCTITE 242, or equivalent.
(f) Install 11 bolts.

Torque:
Bolt A: 18.6 N m (190 kgf cm, 14 in lbf)
Other bolt: 24.5 Nm (250 kgfcm, 18 ft-lb)

(a) Install the 4 discs and 4 plates to the transaxle case.
(b) Install the snap ring with a screwdriver.

(c) Using a dial gauge, measure the U / D brake piston stroke while applying compressed air (392 kPa, 4.0 kgf / cm2, 57 psi) and stopping it.
Piston stroke: 1.81 - 2.07 mm (0.0713 - 0.0815 in)

NOTE: Select the flange corresponding to the prescribed value from the table below.

(d) Temporarily remove the snap ring and attach the flange. Replace the retaining ring.

16. INSTALL FREE SPEED CLUTCH N ° 2

(a) Install the outer ring retainer to the N ° 2 overrunning clutch.

(b) Install the U / D clutch assembly onto the freewheel clutch. Rotate the U / D clutch assembly to check the direction of free play and blocking.

(c) Install the # 2 overrunning clutch in the transaxle case.

NOTE: Make sure the mark on the outer ring of the freewheel is visible.

(d) Using a screwdriver, install the circlip into the transaxle case.

17. INSTALL U / D COUPLING ASSEMBLY

(a) Coat the bearing and bearing ring with petroleum jelly and fit them onto the U / D coupling.

Ring diameter: mm (inch)
Bearing: Inner 37.73 (1.4854), Outer 58.0 (2.283)
Ring: Inner 29.9 (1.177), Outer 55.5 (2.185)

(b) Install the U / D clutch assembly to the transaxle case.

18. INSTALL U / D PLANETARY GEAR ASSEMBLY AND DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY

(a) Install the pawl pin and spring onto the parking brake locking pin.

(b) Temporarily install the parking brake lock pin, shaft and spring to the transaxle case as shown in the illustration.

(c) Install the U / D planetary assembly to the transaxle case.

NOTE: Firmly engage all U / D clutch discs and planetary U / D hub splines and assemble securely.

(d) Install the parking brake lock pin shaft.

(e) Secure the pin shaft with the bolt. Tightening torque: 9.8 N · m (100 kgf · cm, 7 lbf · ft)

(f) Using a straight edge and vernier calipers, measure the clearance between the top of the differential pinion in the U / D planetary gear and the contact surface of the transmission case and shroud (dimension D) as shown in the illustration.

NOTE: Make a note of the D dimension as you will need it later.

(g) Measure at two points on the transmission housing as shown in the illustration.Calculate size E using the formula.

NOTE: Make a note of the E dimension as you will need it later.

NOTE: Dimension E = Dimension (1) - Dimension (2)

19. INSTALL MULTI-DISC CLUTCH HUB

(a) Install the bearing ring into the transmission, observing the direction.

Bearing ring diameter: mm (inch)
Internal 34.5 (1.358)
Outside 48.5 (1.909)

(b) Coat the clutch thrust bearing and ring with petroleum jelly and install them on the multi-plate clutch hub.

Clutch Pressure Bearing and Ring Diameter: mm (in)
Internal 36.3 (1.429)
Outdoor 52.2 (2.055)

(c) Install the bearing into the multi-plate clutch hub.
Bearing diameter: mm (inch)
Internal 23.5 (0.925)
Outside 44.0 (1.732)

(d) Install the forward clutch hub to the transaxle case.

(e) Install the clutch push bearing to the forward clutch.
Bearing diameter: mm (inch)
Internal 33.85 (1.3327)
Outdoor 52.2 (2.055)

NOTE: Install the clutch push bearing so the black ring is visible.

(f) Install the forward clutch onto the multi-plate clutch hub.

NOTE: Align the splines on all forward clutch discs with the splines on the multi-plate clutch hub and assemble securely.

The four-speed automatic transmission U140 was developed by Aisin specialists in the late nineties of the last century. This modification of the gearbox was intended for all-wheel drive crossovers and rear-wheel drive six-cylinder vehicles. This gearbox was installed on a Lexus PX 300 car. Initially, the U140 automatic gearbox was intended for engines with a displacement of no more than 2.5 liters. Subsequently, the dimensions of the valve body were increased, which made it possible to install Automatic transmission U140 for cars with an engine volume of 3 liters or more. So, for example, in the 2000s, this modification of the transmission began to be used on such cars as Toyota Highlander and a number of heavy pickups that were supplied to the North American market.

One of the features of this four-speed automatic transmission is the presence of a locking system, which did not allow car owners to switch gears on their own if the engine speed did not allow it. This transmission has established itself as an extremely reliable and trouble-free transmission. The modern design of the machine did not require frequent maintenance and allowed changing the oil with a run of 100 thousand kilometers.

Any difficulty in repair of automatic transmission U140 no gears. The only weak point of the transmission is the valve body, which was changed in 2006. In new modifications, it is recommended to use exclusively synthetic oil, which must be changed together with the filter element. Of the typical breakdowns, one can single out the presence of oil leaks from under the gasket, which forces the owner to make an unscheduled oil change. Do not start oil leaks, which can lead to oil starvation and serious damage to the transmission.

There is such a widespread myth: "If the oil is burnt, it is better not to change it, otherwise the car will stop."

Indeed, this pattern is often traced. And she has an explanation.

What happens inside the automatic transmission in which the oil smells like "burnt clutch"?

Due to a lack of oil pressure (and not from overheating of the oil), the clutches are not sufficiently compressed hydraulically to each other (or to the steel discs), slip and from this friction in the clutch pack (or brake pack) they begin to heat up. This is the first stage of the automaton disease.

There are tables at what operating temperature of the oil friction linings (paper) begin to carbonize. And although at the moment of adhesion-slipping, the temperature on the surface can instantly rise to 300 degrees, the oil cools the surfaces quickly enough and the average temperature of the clutch remains slightly above the oil temperature.It's like touching a hot iron with a wet finger.

Usually paper charring begins with prolonged exposure to a temperature of 130-140 degrees,
- when the oil temperature reaches 150 degrees, the process of carbonization of traditional friction linings occurs in an avalanche manner,
- with further heating, the linings peel off from the steel surface of the friction clutch and fly off into free float.

Carbonization gives a smell to the oil, but the smell and quality of the oil are not so critical for the operation of the automatic transmission. The charred particles of the friction lining abrade the channels and plungers of the valve body, lead to a lack of oil in the units and further abrade the already rubbing parts of the pump, bushings, bearings, etc.

Most critical is the flaking of the friction plates, which immediately clogs the valve plate channels, resulting in a fatal pressure drop.

Charring the clutches has the same effect as a burnt out clutch on the mechanics - it seems to pull, but when the engine speed rises, the speed of the car does not increase. At first, it is subtle, and then more and more. (see “List of typical automatic transmission malfunctions”) Steel discs with such overheating receive rainbow “tarnish marks”. And they are already subject to replacement.

At the second stage of the automatic transmission rape, the thrust discs overheat and burn out. Then - the clutch drum itself, rubberized pistons and adjacent units.

But what is even more unpleasant - the smartest part of the automatic transmission, the “brains” (valve body), also wears out intensively. Paper dust from the friction discs converts the oil into a thick, abrasive slurry with fine and coarse particles.

As a sandblast, this hot stream under the high pressure of the pump grinds out all the narrow places of the aluminum of the valve body, thinning the walls in the places where the control valves open and close the channels.

But this is not the worst thing for an automatic transmission. The lack of oil pressure is primarily felt in the central part of the box - near the axle. The remaining insufficient oil is centrifugally accelerated to the edges. And with a general lack of pressure dry bushings near the axle, bearings wear out, the axles themselves wear out, the torque converter hub, the bearing parts of the drums, covers, planetary gear sets with a sun gear are on fire, and almost all iron assemblies are worn out.

But this is the main resource of the box. The “old age” of the box is measured precisely by the general wear of the rubbing surfaces of the listed parts.
The transmission resource can be considered such a state of all the main (expensive) gearbox assemblies when the cost of replacing or restoring worn-out parts (usually a pump, valve body, planetary gear sets, shafts and drums, a torque converter, a cover.) Is cheaper or comparable to replacing the gearbox with a high-quality control unit. and after such a major overhaul, the transmission will take at least a couple of years.

That is, if several important (from the above) nodes are critically worn out in the box at once, and the rest are on the way, then usually the owners prefer to change the box.

And this end approaches very quickly if the automatic transmission is operated with burnt oil or insufficient oil pressure. Like a year in three during the hostilities. Or a pension 10 years earlier when working as a miner in a coal face.

So what happens if you replace the burnt oil with a new one? Even the best oil?

Burned oil is no longer a liquid, but a thick suspension of friction dust and oil decomposition products. It is thanks to this thick frictional suspension that the remnants of bald clutches somehow cling to each other and pull the car. They cry from burns and terrible pain, but they pull.

1. As soon as you make their work easier by replacing the thick slurry with pure oil, so they (clutches) in exhaustion will give up clinging to the steel discs and begin to slip, deciding that their well-deserved rest has come.

2. In addition, new liquid oil is easier to escape through the cracks of worn bushings and worn out pistons, which previously somehow held the pressure of the old thick slurry.

3.The liquid oil, with its detergent properties, peels off the remaining "semi-dead" friction linings, which somehow kept on the clutches, washes away the dirt that has not yet caked from numerous quiet corners (radiator or heat exchanger) and drives all this suspension into the valve body and tightly locks the solenoids and plunger.

In general, just replacing the burnt oil will not solve the problem, but you can only aggravate everything.

At an early stage of the “disease”, diagnostics may require: change of consumables and clutches, if the process has not gone too far. As a maximum, an autopsy will show that a sad master will leave the operating room and sparing your feelings with grief will read you a list of “dead” and dying organs that need to be removed and transplanted.

And if you do not change the burnt oil and still travel?

A normal person always has a hope for a miracle: “What if it will pass by itself? What if everything will be solved by itself? ”.

It would be inhumane to take this hope away from a person, therefore. read the forums where they say that one comrade has been driving for a year with burnt oil and - nothing! " or .

read above about the end of the automatic transmission resource and search in Yandex: "automatic transmission BU".

What options await if the master diagnostician, having disassembled the box, scares him with the diagnosis: "Everything burned out!" ?

In a mild case (by contacting a doctor at an early stage of the disease), you will have to change all the clutches of the burned-out clutch package, repair the torque converter (bagel), buy a repair kit for gaskets and oil seals and clean everything that is being cleaned, including the radiator. It is good if the master has clever ways to really clean the radiator inside and out. But sometimes it is wiser to replace the radiator or install an additional one.

In a more severe case, each type of automatic transmission has its own list of weaknesses (read about your automatic transmission on the corresponding automatic transmission page).

Weaknesses in the automatic transmission are still not bad. This means that, for example, replacing burnt oil (with consumables) and drum F in the ZF 5HP18 (craftsmen will appreciate the pump as intact), you can be almost sure that the rest of the iron will pass through for several more years without the risk of getting another overhaul.

Contract CU-machines are considered to be quite a big risk. Of course, if there is not a single automatic transmission repair service for 500 km (call us - we have several proven automatic transmission repair technicians in every region of Russia), then the automatic transmission BU is the only way out.

In general, if you missed the replacement date and the oil became dark dirty and has a burning smell, go to diagnostics and repairs as soon as possible if you want to save the resource of your box.

Or disassemble the box yourself. All 4 mortars are easily repaired in the garage with the help of Yandex, a camera, skillful hands and a real "man's spirit".

There are a couple more options - to buy a lottery ticket along with a used box and then quickly sell the car to a naive compatriot, trying to hide remorse behind an honest look.

Automatic transmission U140 was developed by AisinCo and during its operation has established itself as reliable and fully maintainable in operation.

This transmission is famous for the fact that up to a mileage of about 200-300 thousand kilometers it has no weak points, against the background of far from simple operating conditions.

• Age-related changes in the U140 transmission begin to make themselves felt at the above mileage. Faults are mainly observed in the front planetary gear set, which is associated with wear on the pinion axles of the planetary gears. This malfunction, in turn, leads to a change in the contact patch between the sun gear and the pinion gears and, as a result, to the destruction of the gear teeth. A sign of intensive wear of the front planetary gear is the presence of chips on the plugs-magnets.

Such a malfunction is associated with a lack of oil, which, against a background of high torque, leads to failure of the planetary gear elements.In order to avoid problems and extend the service life, all owners of cars with 3-liter engines need not get carried away with quick starts and forcing off-road conditions.

• Due to the rough operation of the planetary gear set, in case of its malfunction, both the sun gear and its bearing suffer. In case of such a malfunction, it is necessary to immediately contact the services of a service, since further operation usually leads to the destruction of the ring gear.

Further driving with such malfunctions ends with metal fragments from the crumbled gears of the front planetary set beginning to break the rear planetary set. This, in turn, leads to failure of the drum, as well as the hub under the clutch.

• The next weak link in age boxes is the back cover, which also serves as a support. This malfunction is inherent in cars with a powerful engine, such as RAV-4, Camry, Lexus RX300. To a greater extent, this applies to cars of the latest generations, where the on-board computer allows you to load the transmission to the limit ....

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

Well, here it is clear what the conversation is about.

# 121 Message unforgivable503 Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:05 am

# 122 Message Biz Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:09 am

# 123 Message Biz Wed Sep 02, 2015 9:08 pm

Clarified, the planetary is new. I took the car, now I will not drive carefully.

The old gear looks like this:

# 124 Message Biz Sun Feb 07, 2016 6:17 pm

# 125 Message Manual Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:28 pm

# 126 Message Biz Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:40 pm

They put in a new gear. The gap between the rear cover and the shaft, the tolerance for it is 0.2. 0.9 mm. In real life, 1.6 mm. The reason is not clear, apparently the total output on all elements of the box. Of these, 0.3 mm working out on the back cover. Because there is only a bearing 0.3 mm thicker and it does not solve the problem, they inserted a washer with a thickness of 1.2 mm. In theory, the gap turned out to be 0.4 mm. After 3 t.km open it, look at the gear and whether it is possible to leave the washer. Nothing else was found.

Gear change takes 2 hours with smoke breaks

# 127 Message unforgivable503 Feb 16, 2016 6:11 am

Biz wrote: Put a new gear. The gap between the rear cover and the shaft, the tolerance for it is 0.2. 0.9 mm. In real life, 1.6 mm. The reason is not clear, apparently the total output on all elements of the box. Of these, 0.3 mm working out on the back cover. Because there is only a bearing 0.3 mm thicker and it does not solve the problem, they inserted a washer with a thickness of 1.2 mm. In theory, the gap turned out to be 0.4 mm. After 3 t.km open it, look at the gear and whether it is possible to leave the washer. Nothing else was found.

Gear change takes 2 hours with smoke breaks

How was the gap measured? Where can the output come from in a millimeter? There, in principle, nothing wears out, if we talk about the joint clearances of the planetary gear set.

What is the transmission or gearbox of your car, as well as many other things you will learn on our website

Such a story. I bought a RAV 4L 4wd American 2000. 83,000 miles. box U140F, ECU No. 89661-42661, push to D and more noticeable to R, just as small when switching from 2 to 3. Changed ATF T4 and filter, added Hi-Gear Trans Extend with SMT2, the old fluid was dark in color and smoked in the pallet on magnets a hedgehog 2-3 mm. in the liquid sparkles like "silver." After 150 kilometers, the push from 2 to 3 left, on R it became almost invisible, on D it remained, and when D was turned on, the car seemed to sit down and stood vnatyag like a sprinter at a low start. kickdown without jerks, turn-on time D is less than 1 second, R is somewhere around 1-1.5, did not roll back on the hill, out of the blue when the brake pedal is released, move forward 1-2 km. per hour. After 15 000 km slipping from 2 to 3 to 4000 rpm. then a kick and turn on 4, on R a delay of 4-5 seconds, and turn on with 3-4 blows. We go to the service. Repair of the box, wash the valve body, change the set of clutches, rear cover, planetary gear, DIRECT CLUTCH and as it is written in the outfit -the order of some kind of OVEROC, also the torque converter is sent to Moscow for repair, plus a filter and gaskets. The liquid was filled with Mobil ATF 3309. Total 80,000 rubles.

THE SECOND ACT OF THE MARLESON BALLET.

What did you get at the output? The machine goes BUT points on D with squatting remained. I'm going to the officials, the answer is American REZET MEMORY, we do not do the rewriting of the program. I find a person with the programmer doing REZET MEMORY, we ride in different modes (adaptation of the box) the push to D does not go away, we rewrite four ECU updates in turn with test drives, the RESULT is ZERO.

I order a new ECU 89661-42664.26 000 rubles, they bring it, the car becomes clearly dumber, when switching 1-2 2-3 3-4 it feels like the car is being held at the moment of switching, there is no slippage not by sensations not by the tachometer and the same push on D the car crouches and stands vnatyag. In general, after the repair, the same car turned out as at the time of purchase. Check engin does not burn. The cold came, an interesting moment appeared, on the cold one until the box warmed up there was no push on D, BUT! R engages with a double soft push. After the gearbox reaches operating temperature R, it engages gently (almost imperceptibly) BUT again there is a push to D and all gears except the 4th are felt, it engages softly. I understand that it is most likely that the problem is the valve body and solenoids, but I would like to somehow, for a specific reason, what exactly.

For U140 on RAV4, the topic is already hackneyed, repair:

1. ECU for repair anyway, the marriage appears there over time, do not get lost in the block. First of all, it appears in the form of R with a delay, kick 2-3, axle boxes on the 4th. At the same time, errors are given by the solenoids, unknowingly, people begin to climb into the hydraulic block, change the solenoids, in fact, the ECU needs to be repaired. TSB has been released about this a long time ago;

2. The front planetary gearbox is replaced with a 4-liter 3-liter engine from the RX-300;

3. Direction and cover as per status;

5. Master kit is required, replacing discs, seals, filter, etc .;

6. Repair of the hydraulic control unit with replacement of solenoids with new ones;

7. MANDATORY ADAPTATION after installation. The automatic transmission is adaptive, after repair, if you do not adapt the ECU, it will shove, push when shifting gears, it will break the discs at least.

8. In general, you have so "repaired" the automatic transmission, stepped on a rake that is LONGLY KNOWN TO ALL UNITS.

9. "in a work order, some kind of OVEROC" is a repair kit, discs, seals, rings, etc.

10. "I order a new ECU 89661-42664.26 000 rubles" - repair of the ECU 3-4 thousand rubles.

11. “BUT! R turns on with a double soft push ”- this is normal, especially for a cold one, the main thing is that there is no delay of 4-5 seconds;

12. "BUT again there is a push on D and all gears are felt except for the 4th, it turns on softly." - repair of the hydraulic control unit, replacement of solenoids with new ones.

An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box,
• disassembly of the box,
• complete set with spare parts,
• assembly (installation),
• installation on a car,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage.Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes to third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil,
• check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on a car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Defective transformer. This includes:
   • breaks in the splines of the wires,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main blocking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston oil seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
4. We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
6. We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
8. We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. We replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them.If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.

If asked for a password: 88888

By the way, there is also such a book - link
I would like to order with an opportunity.

If asked for a password: 88888 Hello. Be so kind as to be able to access the download as a thread? the password doesn't_work.
Thank you for your understanding and help.

edit. from 25.11.2012. I remove the question. Thanks to.

If asked for a password: 88888 Now my password does not work! how to download?

04/29/2013 I am also withdrawing my question. Solved the password)))

spare parts for>

The original source is here link - the password changes periodically, to find out the password, go to the automatic transmission section link