In detail: u341e do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Useful DIY Tips
Automatic transmission box U340E / U341E, (U340E / U341E)> buy spare parts for automatic transmission
Photo report on replacement of ATF T-IV and filter in automatic transmission U-341E - photos of cars on>
DIY Toyota automatic transmission repair
Automatic transmission box U340E / U341E, (U340E / U341E)> buy spare parts for automatic transmission
Automatic transmission box U34, U340E / U341E, (U34)> buy spare parts for automatic transmission
Automatic transmission box U340E / U341E, (U340E / U341E)> buy spare parts for automatic transmission
U341E need valve body diagram, box from AVENSIS II Restyle - Unit
U140E Center for automatic transmissions, Kazan. Free automatic transmission diagnostics. Professional repair of automatic transmissions of any complexity.
1ZZ - automatic transmission 1ZZ U341E for Toyota Celica T23
Automatic transmission diagnostics, automatic transmission repair, automatic transmission spare parts, automatic transmission check, Toyota automatic transmission repair, Mercedes automatic transmission repair, automatic transmission repair
Manual automatic transmission U660E U760E Car service
Automatic transmission Toyota / Aisin Co U340E / U341E / U341F
Automatic four-speed transfer gearbox U340 designed for Toyota front-wheel drive vehicles with an engine capacity of up to 2 liters. This gearbox appeared in the early 2000s and was installed on Toyota Celica, Corolla and Avensis cars.
This transmission is one of the most popular due to its excellent reliability. A fairly simple design without unnecessary bells and whistles allowed this automatic transmission to provide maximum survivability and durability. It is not uncommon when cars with this transmission could work without the need for overhaul of the gearbox for 200 - 300 thousand kilometers. The U340 transmission had an automatic lubrication system that reliably provided adequate cooling and lubrication. At the same time, it must be said that the durability of use Automatic transmission U340 directly depends on the driving style of car owners. In the event that the car owner professes an aggressive and fast driving style, the transmission may require overhaul after 200,000 kilometers. In most cases, this transmission is designed for quiet city driving.
 |
Video (click to play). |
Of the common failures, we can single out the problems of the lubrication system, which are expressed in problems with the operation of the solenoids. Due to the use of low-quality oil, the solenoids can fail, which in turn leads to problems with the lubrication of moving elements. As a result, gears and clutches suffer, which require repair of automatic transmission U340... In rare cases, problems with the planetary array can be noted, which forces expensive and extremely difficult repairs. As a conclusion, we note that this gearbox has established itself as one of the best transmissions that were installed on Toyota front-wheel drive vehicles.
This four-speed transmission is installed on Toyota front wheel drive vehicles with an engine of less than 2 liters. This well-studied and repairable automatic transmission is extremely common in Russia, since most of the front-wheel-drive Toyota cars have been equipped with it since 2000 - Echo, Celica, Corolla and many others. Various markings U340E and U341E indicate additional design details. For example, the automatic transmission marked U341E is capable of transmitting higher torque and can be installed on high-powered cars (Celica), while the U341F is installed on modern four-wheel drive vehicles.
On average, Toyota owners with this gearbox come for repairs after 200-300 thousand kilometers. Until that time, it is enough to follow the operating rules of the car and change the oil and filters on time.
- Under heavy loads, gaskets, oil seals and friction clutches fly first, and the cover caliper O-ring is often worn out.
- Structurally due to the defect - tilting of the drum, reverse at high torque. When repairing this unit, the craftsmen not only change the clutches in the drum, but also be sure to check the drum covers.
- With aggressive and frequent acceleration, the planetary gear set and sun gear become unusable.
- The hydraulic plate is clogged with dirty oil, and as a result - slippage in the package, wear of the clutches. Our masters clean the hydraulic plate every time the automatic transmission is dismantled.
- Electrics are the strongest link in this automatic transmission, which has to be repaired much less frequently than hardware.
The good news for the car owners of this gearbox is that most of the parts and repair kits are freely available and are quite widespread in Russia. On the basis of our technical center REKPP we have our own warehouse of components, which will provide a quick and high-quality repair of automatic transmissions U340E and U341E, regardless of the complexity of the breakdown.
Repair of any automatic transmissions from 1 day
CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts
# 1 Post lyaman 07-03-07, 09:35
# 2 Post lyaman 07-03-07, 09:31
The layout of the balls in my hydraulic plate
# 3 Post arsas 07-03-07, 09:31
# 4 Post lyaman 07-03-07, 03:18
Tell me, is there a difference in the thickness of the elasticity that is weaker and weaker in the springs?
# 5 Post lyaman Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:27 am
# 6 Post al030 Wed Jul 17, 2013 11:09 am
# 7 Post lyaman Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:57 pm
# 8 Post lyaman 06-03-07, 09:45
I disassembled the valve body and it turned out that my crooked hands put the spring in the wrong place
I put it in the switching valve from 4 to 3. and it stood on the switching valve from 3 to 4. on the diagram, the arrow indicated.
In this regard, a problem arose - the 3rd and 4th speeds disappeared, the oil is cloudy, as I understand it, due to an error with the spring, the clutches ran out. It's just not very clear which package.
In D mode, it switches to second speed at 3 no longer drives. In S2 mode, it switches normally, in S3 / 4 it also does not go. Looking at the diagram, in the broken modes of the box, the DIRECT package is involved (in the diagram C2). The rest of the clutch packs should seem to be alive, judging by the modes in which the box is now working.
To change, I think to remove the side cover without removing the box, who knows maybe it will be possible to do this?
# 9 Post lyaman Wed Jun 25, 2014 2:16 am
And I ended up with an unequal fight with a box))
Disassembled on the street. did not drain the oil. the cover can be removed easily.
A fluoroplastic ring pierced the seat in the side cover.
Because of this, there was no pressure to clamp the bag.
The clutches were hot - I changed them.
New cover and PTFE rings supplied.
Passed 15000km flight after all of the above
normal - switches clearly without jerking.
The first pancake came out lumpy, but I hope there won't be a second one at all))
# 10 Post andrei_grebenkov Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:53 pm
# 11 Message andrei_grebenkov Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:55 pm
# 12 Post Bratsk 38 Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:18 pm
Sponsored links. Shown only to unregistered users
I am starting the epic of replacing the automatic transmission U341E 03A with U340E 07A. I'm just tired of the jolts and protracted switching from 1-2 and vice versa. Yes, and replacing the filter with liquid on led to the investigation of the pallet and there are aluminum square granules. Also, with a sharp acceleration, you can hear the planetary tense and buzz with a whistle. During a long search for the box, only U340E 07A from PROBOCS or the so-called Neighbor was found. The choice fell on the U340E box because they are on repair kits from USA TRANSTAR, absolutely the same filling. In an extreme case, the crankcase will be different, all costs can be thrown, the first but minor difficulties appeared in docking with the 1ZZ-FE engine (to my engine), since the U340E was on the 1NZ engine and the transitional crankcase (bells) are different, you just have to throw your own. All other fasteners, i.e. switches and plugs, are also explored. Yes, I will also upload all the photos in the process, who have desires to join the process.
Developed concurrently with U140 U240 this automatic transmission is a constructive analogue and has also been the leader in repairs among Aisinovskih automatic transmissions for a long time.
And this is connected as well as with other leaders (U140 U240 and ZF 5HP19) - with its simple and proven design, devoid of "bells and whistles", which was installed on the mega-popular Corolla, Avensis, Yaris and Auris and hundreds of thousands of other Toyota cars with a 1.3 - 1.8 liter engine.
Modification U341E - can transmit higher torque and is used for more powerful motors Celica (1.8l), U341F - modification for four-wheel drive vehicles (4WD).
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
Typical repair points of automatic transmission U340-341
When the oil is “burned”, it is necessary to change the complete set of clutches of the entire automatic transmission - 343003. Always unoriginal.
The overhaul of the machine with burnt oil and burnt steel discs requires replacing all rubberized pistons for correct gear shifting - 343008.
For a long and healthy old age U340-341 requires timely replacement of oil and filter - 343010.
Oil in age automatic transmissions was used like Toyota T-IV, but since 2005, Aisin and Toyota began to transfer all their machines to a new all-season synthetic oil - Toyota Ws... With the appropriate changes in the computer settings. It is unpretentious to the level and quality of the oil, but the valve body responds well to an oil change.
With age and as the clutches wear out (especially the torque converter), the oil begins to get dirty faster and has to be changed more often. Frequent oil changes postpone the need to replace the converter lining somewhat.
One of the most popular complaints is oil leakage from the pump seal (340070). Stands between the box and the donut. Change the oil seal 343070 together with the bushing 330034. when you need to carry out cosmetic repairs. The pump bushing usually already has a wear limit when the mileage exceeds 300 tkm.
This is usually caused by uneven wear of the torque converter clutch clutch and associated vibration and overheating. In this case, changing the oil does not save, but only accelerates the premature death of first the rotating sleeve, and then the pump itself (343500).
The friction surfaces of the pump cover with the gear are produced - No. 343510. If you continue to drive with such an oil pump, then due to a lack of pressure, the bushings wear out and the clutches wear out, which gives the oil a burnt smell. During a major overhaul, they repair the torque converter, which is the cause of this problem, and the valve body, clogged with mud from a donut.
Therefore, when changing the clutches in the Direct drum, 343555, the craftsmen always check the wear of the cover and the Reverse drum seat.
It is hardly fair to talk about "iron diseases" of this unkillable family of automatic transmissions. Is that about “developing a resource”.
For older machines that have survived long-term operation with difficult working conditions, forced driving and lack of oil pressure, there is a problem of wear of gear wheels of Forward Planet No. 343582A. Or they order a set of planetary gear sets (BU) - 343583.
The more aggressive the overclocking, the earlier this problem manifests itself, which is that RingGear 343594 ( see diagram above left ). And it comes only complete with the planet Forward itself. You can find out about the wear of the planetary gears by the content of metal chips in the pallet. Crumbs larger than 1mm are an indicator of critical wear of iron and a sign for an urgent replacement of the planet.
With him, in a chain reaction with fragments, he also breaks the sun gear 343614.
All these original parts are widespread, available and recoverable from the box. Craftsmen prefer to order the original, because in almost most used boxes this planet is worn out and all parts are in the “risk zone”.
One of the frequent replacements on fresh boxes (since 2009) is the line pressure solenoid EPC - 343428, which works much more intensively than the rest of the solenoids.
It develops its service life after prolonged operation in dirty oil with worn rings and seals. Timely replacement of the oil and rings of the repair kit allows this solenoid to work for the entire service life of the automatic transmission. Replacing one solenoid without replacing the O-rings from the Remkomplekt reduces the resource of the new solenoid significantly. Together with it, the gas turbine blocking solenoid is often changed.
Popular budget clutch repair - replacing discs in a drum pack Direct 343555 - Steel discs # 343126 and clutches # 343106. The reason is the wear of the cover caliper O-ring. (below)
Symptoms - insufficient traction, the automatic machine does not transmit all the torque from the engine.
If you continue to drive with worn rings, you can lose both the cover and the drum, and then the valve body solenoids.
Typical problems of valve body electrical and U340 solenoids.
The electrics of this automatic transmission so rarely have to be repaired that, according to this indicator, the automatic transmission U340 are the next record holder of reliability.
However, with each dismantling of the box, the masters habitually disassemble and clean the valve body and electromagnetic valves (solenoids), which are suffering from dirty oil. A clogged valve plate leads to unpredictable jerks and slippages in the package, where oil is not supplied by the corresponding valve body plunger. Long-term operation with such a problem leads to premature wear of almost permanent clutches.
Occasionally they order linear solenoids-electric regulators that have exhausted their long service life: Main pressure (EPC) 343428 and Torque converter lock-up solenoid - (LockUp) 343425.
The rest of the shift solenoids are ball “On-Off” and last much longer. Three shifters are used on the plate, switching forward speeds with an on-off combination (diagram on the left): S1 - 343421 and S2 - 343422. And the shifter, including the reverse S3 - No. 343423, which does not appear in the replacement at all.
After an appropriate overhaul, these automatic transmissions run for a long time, if you monitor the level and quality of the oil. A truly "indestructible" box. For drivers with a relaxed driving style and regular oil changes U340 begins to demand attention only after 300-400 tkm.
But in fairness, it should be noted that the statistics of sales of spare parts for U340-341 is greatly distorted by the fact that owners of small budget cars older than 10-15 years rarely decide to overhaul automatic transmissions with the purchase of new spare parts, since finding cheap used parts or the used box itself is always quite a big temptation. Therefore, for reasons of extreme economy, craftsmen often order one gasket for the pallet 343300 with a filter, and the rest of the parts are taken from auto disassembly.
Cost and availability of spare parts for repair U340 you can find out in the online store by typing a number on an orange background in the search box for details.
Toyota Fielder NZE121G 2004 (U340E), mileage 53 tkm.
There were no problems with the typewriter, I found it on my head. I changed the automatic transmission filter the day before yesterday. ATF has not changed completely. changed recently (5 tkm ago) on the device without changing the filter and removing the pallet. It was necessary to immediately change the filter of course, but who knew. As soon as I left the service station, the problems began. With intense acceleration (or kickdown), immediately after 4000 rpm in second gear, the thrust disappears (slippage?) And the revs increase sharply, after a second the impact, the gear is switched on again and further acceleration without surprises. When switching to third to 4000 everything is fine. Returned to the service station to complain. They say that most likely they have nothing to do with it: it coincided. They changed the filter in front of me, did not notice anything criminal. The pallet is a little dirty, but the magnets are without shavings. ATF is dark pink, without impurities, does not stink. We went with a scanner: no errors, parameters are normal, box control is in order. I went to see other box specialists. Again we rode with the scanner. Provisional diagnosis: 3rd pack or pressure control solenoid dies. Final at showdown. They offer repairs (9,000 rubles + 3,000 rubles to remove / deliver + spare parts) or replace them with a contract one (15,000 rubles + 3,000 rubles to remove / deliver).
The following things are not clear:
1) why did the box become buggy after replacing the filter?
2) who is to blame? package, solenoid or something else?
3) what to do? repair, change?
How is the oil level on the dipstick?
First, take off the pallet and see for yourself
how the servicemen installed the filter.
And that in general they poured there.
PS: I don’t understand why change the oil for the service.
Toyota Fielder NZE121G 2004 (U340E), mileage 53 tkm.
There were no problems with the typewriter, I found it on my head. I changed the automatic transmission filter the day before yesterday. ATF has not changed completely. changed recently (5 tkm ago) on the device without changing the filter and removing the pallet. It was necessary to immediately change the filter of course, but who knew. As soon as I left the service station, the problems began. With intense acceleration (or kickdown), immediately after 4000 rpm in second gear, the thrust disappears (slippage?) And the revs increase sharply, after a second the impact, the gear is switched on again and further acceleration without surprises. When switching to third to 4000 everything is fine. Returned to the service station to complain. They say that most likely they have nothing to do with it: it coincided. They changed the filter in front of me, did not notice anything criminal. The pallet is a little dirty, but the magnets are without shavings. ATF is dark pink, without impurities, does not stink. We went with a scanner: no errors, parameters are normal, box control is in order. I went to see other box specialists. Again we rode with the scanner. Provisional diagnosis: 3rd pack or pressure control solenoid dies. Final at showdown. They offer repairs (9,000 rubles + 3,000 rubles to remove / deliver + spare parts) or replace them with a contract one (15,000 rubles + 3,000 rubles to remove / deliver).
The following things are not clear:
1) why did the box become buggy after replacing the filter?
2) who is to blame? package, solenoid or something else?
3) what to do? repair, change?
In the thread about Fielders, I wrote yesterday or the day before yesterday:
I have a 2001 Fielder, 1 NZ engine. body 121 NZE. I took the car myself from the auction. Mileage in Japan is 75 thousand. I wound up to 123 thousand in a year and 3 months. I live in St. Petersburg. I used the car in large part on the highway (intercity), I like to drive. The oil in the automatic transmission on the dipstick was clean, so I did not change it.
During operation, all speeds were included well. For a long time it was such that let's say the food was 60 km / h, but you need to accelerate sharply - I press sharply and strongly into the gas, there was a small shock, the speed changed and everything was ok.
The last two months, in the morning when I warm up the car, I turned on D, but the speed turned on with a delay (and if you press the gas before turning on the speed, then there was a blow, the car jerked forward, then everything was ok.) Everything was fine when it was warmed up.
In short, on Friday evening (today is Tuesday) I went to the service to change the oil in the automatic transmission.I bought a T-4 Toyotovskoye in a white metal can (in a black can - made in the Arab Emirates, so I did not take it and did not recommend it). I bought two cans of oil (each for 2500 TOTAL 0 5 thousand rubles) + a filter (made in America) costs 1900 + a pallet gasket - 400 rubles. I paid 2000 rubles for changing the oil in the service.
I watched the replacement take place - the bolt was opened with a hexagon - the oil drained, then the pan was unscrewed - the oil spilled out, then the filter was unscrewed (exactly the same as I bought). The oil was red-brown, cloudy, and did not smell burnt. There was no dirt and no shavings or sawdust on the magnets on the pallet.
We washed the pallet with gasoline, dried it with air, put a new gasket, put the magnets in place. We put in a new filter (QUESTION: do you need to pour a little oil into it?), Screwed on the pan. We poured new oil through the dipstick (almost 4 liters). They called the car - they switched the automatic machine (but at that moment I did not feel that the forward speed was turned on).
Then the oil was drained through the hex bolt, a new one was poured. adjusted it to HOT. drove through the city.
It seemed that the speeds are included smoother.
In the morning the car warmed up, turned on D - but the speed of 30 - 40 seconds did not turn on. I pressed the gas - the car jerked and drove off. Traveled for 2-3 hours with parking for 10 minutes - everything worked and turned on normally.
The next morning (Sunday) - in the morning it turned on only through the gas. Trains again for 2-3 hours, everything is ok.
Arrived at the airport - left for 50 minutes. The speed did not turn on - only when the gas was pressed. After that, on that day, the speed began to be turned on only with the help of gas. Moreover, after stopping in the evening for about 1 hour, I had to gas for about 5 minutes for the speed to turn on. The car did not go, but a light came on - the engine (tap orange).
The next morning (Monday), the speed did not turn on at all - I gasped for about 10 minutes, then I pressed the gas sharply up to 3 thousand rpm, the speed turned on.
After an hour and a half driving around the city, I stood with the engine off for about 10 minutes - the speed turned on only when I pressed the gas.
Then she stood for about 2 hours - I had to accelerate for 5 minutes and hard to turn on the speed. When I almost stopped the car, then I pressed on the gas, then at first there was a slip, then the speed was grabbed (like on a burnt clutch in mechanics)
By the way, when I was on the gas, the engine compartment felt some slight slippage sometimes.
In short, my box is the same and also broke. Also after replacement. Here.
An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.
Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:
- diagnostics,
- dismantling the box,
- disassembly of the box,
- complete set with spare parts,
- assembly (installation),
- installation on a car,
- diagnostics after repair.
To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.
All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.
It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission.It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.
Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.
Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.
Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.
All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in
- electronic control system,
- mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.
If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes to third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.
If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.
In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.
General scheme of diagnostic procedures:
- check the oil,
- check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
- determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
- check the box on a car without movement,
- check the automatic transmission in motion,
- check the pressure inside the control system.
If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:
- input sensors,
- electronic control unit,
- executive devices of the control system,
- violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.
The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.
These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:
- Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
- Defective transformer. This includes:
- breaks in the splines of the wires,
- mechanical destruction of the blades,
- overrunning clutch,
- wear of the main blocking clutch,
- depressurization of the piston oil seal.
- Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.
If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.
You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person.Further action plan:
- disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
- unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
- remove and move the gearbox;
- assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.
Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container in the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.
All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.
It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:
- We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
- We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
- Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
- We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
- Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
- We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
- We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
- We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
- Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
- We replace rings and friction bolts.
- We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.
Assembly takes place upside-down.
There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.
If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:
- When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
- The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
- Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
- At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.
Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.
Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy, but feasible task.Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.
Sponsored links. Shown only to unregistered users
I am starting the epic of replacing the automatic transmission U341E 03A with U340E 07A. I'm just tired of the jolts and protracted switching from 1-2 and vice versa. Yes, and replacing the filter with liquid on led to the investigation of the pallet and there are aluminum square granules. Also, with a sharp acceleration, you can hear the planetary tense and buzz with a whistle. During a long search for the box, only U340E 07A from PROBOCS or the so-called Neighbor was found. The choice fell on the U340E box because they are on repair kits from USA TRANSTAR, absolutely the same filling. In an extreme case, the crankcase will be different, all costs can be thrown, the first but minor difficulties appeared in docking with the 1ZZ-FE engine (to my engine), since the U340E was on the 1NZ engine and the transitional crankcase (bells) are different, you just have to throw your own. All other fasteners, i.e. switches and plugs, are also explored. Yes, I will also upload all the photos in the process, who have desires to join the process.
Good day!
My automatic transmission is dead. An autopsy showed that the repair was not advisable.
Several friction clutches were worn out, a certain medium-sized plastic ring was ground, some sort of bushing (judging by the red remains) got into the planetary gear and damaged the splines on the small gears. The oil pump is seized. Not a single transmission is working. And as a presumptive consequence, the repair of the hydraulic transformer is also required. If you buy all these spare parts + gaskets, yes + clean everything well (how and how it is not clear), yes + it is not known whether the valve body is still alive => there is no point in repairing.
I am now looking for a used replacement.
I have been reading the Internet for 2 days, I found out the following:
1) The U341E box was put on a bunch of Toyota:
ALLION 2001-2007 front 1.8L
AURIS 2011 front 1.6L, 1.8L
AVENSIS 2003-2008 front 1.8L
CALDINA 2000-2004 front 1.8L
CELICA GT 2000-2006 front 1.8L
COROLLA 2002-2011 front and full 1.5L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L
FIELDER 2004-2008 front 1.8L
ISIS 2004-2009 front 1.8L
IST 2007-2011 front 1.8L
MATRIX 2003-2011 front and full 1.8L
OPA 2000-2005 front and full 1.8L
PREMIO 2001-2004 front and full 1.8L
SPACIO 2001-2007 front 1.8L
VERSO 2011 front 1.8L
VIOS 2008-2011 front 1.6L
WISH 2003-2009 front and full 1.8L
YARIS 2008-2011 front 1.6L
2) According to the catalogs of Exist for wines, my automatic transmission has the number 30500-20A31.
3) In addition to the U341E index, there are 2 or three digits. For example, I have “U341E 10” (physically on the automatic transmission case).
I met on Avito and seller sites contract s / h “U341E 11”, “U341E-01A”, “U341E 07”, etc.
4) My master is friends with the electrician and the head
Here they write that prulya will not work:
Here they write that it is enough to rearrange the valve body:
which I have in an incomprehensible state (I need to wash it, but where is the guarantee that we will wash it normally?)
U341E from "Avensis" left-handed is offered for 27-33 tr.
U341E with different numbers are further from 8-15 tr., Contract, from Japan (it is small and runs are small), they are attracted by the price.
Theoretically, I can buy a torque converter (bagel) from used Avensis. or have yours repaired in a specialized workshop.
How to choose the box that suits me considering the best ratio (price / quality) and will I have to modify something (what?)?
|
Video (click to play). |
Added after 1 hour 38 minutes 41 seconds:
